(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

33 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #145 Houdini Pinball initial flyer Posted by HighProtein (2 years ago)

Post #184 Initial reveal at TPF Posted by SilverballNut (2 years ago)

Post #190 Introductory Price of Houdini Posted by 1iblind (2 years ago)

Post #198 Initial Pictures of Machine Posted by lllvjr (2 years ago)

Post #229 Playfield Close-Up Pics Posted by bigd1979 (2 years ago)

Post #284 Machine feature details Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #312 More feature details Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #385 Double switch lane picture Posted by pinballrockstar (2 years ago)

Post #420 Pinball show appearance schedule for Houdini Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #434 Houdini pics from Allentown show Posted by PinballSTAR (2 years ago)

Post #533 Official Houdini Flyer with features listed Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (2 years ago)

Post #535 Ball Counter graphic for game Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #609 More mode and feature details from programmer Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #639 More game system details from programmer Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #978 Photos of the updated game for expo Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #1000 Photos of the cabinet interior side art Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #1287 Josh Kugler Interview Posted by konjurer (2 years ago)

Post #1357 Houdini Gameplay video Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #2290 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by BarryJ (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7586 1 year ago

I just picked up Houdini last weekend and everyone who plays it is enjoying it. it is a game with ~ 500 plays. it appears that in the stats a date range can be set. I would like to start keeping stats from now forward. how does one do that?

EDIT:
Oops, I figured it out, in utilities "reset audits"

#7589 1 year ago

Does anyone else get tons of airballs? I have balls hop over the flipper bats and even the inlane plastics for unwelcome drains. Although when the ball jumps into the lower catapult I get a cheap ball locked, I'd rather play it clean. most irritating is when the ball hops up on the right side and gets trapped behind the planchette. does that happen to others?

#7591 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Take the balls out of the game (there is a utility for this), put in the art protectors if you have side art, put some rags or padding over the edge of the top of the backbox. Then lift that playfield up, lean it against the backbox and get in there and find out what came apart. You're not going to be able to fix this from the top side.
EDIT: You might want to reference the drawing for that assembly in the service manual: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf

What do you use to protect the side art? I worry about damaging it when I open things up.

#7597 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

These are awesome and a must.

excellent protectors! my Congo doesn't have side art but the inside left of the cabinet was horribly gouged up. It turns out that a corner the coil bracket of the upper flipper stuck out a bit. 20 seconds with a grinder corrected that problem.

Quoted from zahner:

Flippers need to be turned down in the coil adjustment. You’ll have to fiddle with it until you get it where you want it. Mine are at 22 and I have very few air balls.

mine were set at 24/25 I dialed it down to 22 on each seemed better, now problem hitting any lanes (I got 245 needles champ) but still a few air shots. I checked my home voltage, 124 volts which is high. I might dial the flipper coils down a bit more.

#7599 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Set pitch to slightly less than 6.2
Set flippers to 23 both left and right.
It will be slightly harder to make the ramp but it's very doable.
As you get into it search this thread for my other tweaks if you want.
You are gonna love this game!

I can't measure 10ths of a degree but my Lufkin machinists protractor says a tad more than 6 degrees

I set flippers to 21 and can still hit the ramp solid and I think the scoop and milkcan are easier now

I really do love this game already

#7611 1 year ago

for those of you who have knockers installed, how often does it knock? I have match play disabled and for replays I have extra ball awards. Is the knocker used outside of that?

#7612 1 year ago

My first few times of playing King of Cards mode i caught on real quick and hit 3 or 4 hoops. The last several times I have not for the life of me, been able to hit a single ring. I always seem to fall short although I hold the flipper for more strength.

It beats me... maybe I'll stick to the needles trick.

#7620 1 year ago

The Knocker is an add on kit from the API store. I am just curious on how useful it is on a home use game?

#7623 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I REALLY enjoy the Knocker. I keep my pin on quarters and credits.

I love the knocker too

I used coins for a while on my first pin. I have a big stash of Panama quarters that work (I drop them into friends machines when I visit)

One benefit to using coins is when the fatherless 12 year old from next door comes over to play I can tell home to go home when we run out of quarters. That worked only once until he said "but don't you have the key?"

#7624 1 year ago

I am back tracking through older posts in this thread, gosh there are a lot. I am back to 20 pages so far. Thanks Pbreno and Bobu for posting machine tweaks and to Rosh in explaining game code.

I am a tinkerer and expect to do the upgrades available. I already did some slight damage to my blade art. After the suggestion I went to PBLife to order there protectors but they are out of stock and coming from Germany who knows when they'll be back. So I am considering making my own. I have a good assortment of magnets, the issue is finding the right material.... I found a source for 1/16th" ldpe polyethylene in convenient sizing. What material do they use? Thickness?

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_sheets_rolls/ldpe_sheets/410

#7629 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Also, trying to download the latest code from the API website. Seems to not be working?? Any ideas why not?

It just gave me the option to download

https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/

2 weeks later
#7705 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Also...does anyone have the shaker installed in their machine? When is it active? Worth the money? Contemplating buying one as all my other games have the shaker and I don't want Houdini to feel left out! lol

I really like the shaker in this game. it adds to the fun of locking a ball in the trunk. I had it set on high for a little while. that was maybe a bit too much.

1 week later
#7734 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Found it. Still set at mediim, but seem more energized somehow.

I put my magnets on high and am loving it.

#7735 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

I see the power upgrade is back in stock....but mine has never missed yet? I suppose I can wait.....?

My trunk shot worked well before the upgrade. Although when I was in a multiball things would bog down. I once had 4 balls in the scoop trying to get out and they just couldn't make it.. I thought OMG I'll have to open up and retrieve them, but as things settled down they finally made it out. I feel the upgrade has helped this problem.

When I put the new power supply in my trunk shot didn't work. At 26 power it hit the front of the trunk and some times made it in.At 27 it was wild over the top. So I adjusted the pot on the power supply to 49.1 volts and at the 26 coil power rating I hit every time.

1 week later
#7785 1 year ago

I can't think any other game with a theme I like more (but I loved Houdini as a kid). The modes music and rules all fit it well and provide a depth of discovery and surprises for continued enjoyment. The steam punk styling and artwork are too cool. I am most familiar with older machines, syst 11, WPS, the sophistication of this table is wild, I love the lighting.

The shots are indeed tight but that's a challenge not a deficit to me. There are still plenty of rewarding shots to make. Damn my 65 year old friend Mike who has played maybe 20 games of pinball in as many years hit 1.3mil on his second game. He had a blast!

Although we have maybe logged 300 plays on the machine in the last month since we got it, I believe Houdini has found a permanent home here.

Another funny story. My wife, who has top scores on all my machines, played a game with us on Christmas day, maybe her second or third play ever. my friend who had to leave for work couldn't finish his game since hers lasted 30 minutes. The following week I played several games every day to upset her high score to no avail. One day she comes in and asks if she can play too, of course, next thing I know is she is logging second high score, finishes and says "I'm done now" and walks off. If she keeps doing that I am going to turn the giggles back on the slings.

#7798 1 year ago

Sub Woofer question. I am planning to build a sub woofer to use with Houdini. what have some of the others of you done to route the wires out of the cabinet? I am thinking of mounting a phono plug on the bottom.

#7816 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Sorry man, I haven’t taken off my back glass yet. What is that black box?
I used to only use alligator clips to the lugs of the cabinet sub in my Stern games. Those clips won’t work here?
Thanks for your help!

You might want to buy some wire strippers.

This is a link to the amp users manual

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/manuals/310-308--lp-168ha-manual.pdf

#7818 1 year ago

I believe that I read that early ones broke easy. I bet if you file service order with API they will take care of you. My used game came with a couple spares.

My gate used to get stuck open for a while, which I didn't mind , but I had to fix it since I felt like I was cheating.

#7841 12 months ago
Quoted from wesman:Thanks everyone for the quick and informative replies!
Those hilmors look sooooo nice, but are maybe a bit pricy for me currently. Thank you though, and I'll definitely note them for a future purchase!
Would these work okay?
https://m.harborfreight.com/7-Pc-Professional-SAE-Nut-Driver-Set-69239.html
And is this the notch on the right of the scoop protector you guys are referring to? [quoted image]

As an electrician I have always used Klien tools I like the handles on their nut drivers. Most any brand should work but do look for magnetic tips and hollow shafts. A full set can be helpful but the sizes you'll use the most are 1/4" and 11/32" also maybe 5/16". I have magnetized my Philips driver as well

#7849 12 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

These would work then?
Klein Tools 647M Magnetic Nut Driver Set, 6-Inch Shafts, 7-Piece amazon.com link »
How does the hollow shaft help?
Thanks again everyone for your help!

6 inch shafts can be a bit unwieldy. 3" shafts (7" overall) are more common

Full hollow shafts (except 3/16-Inch [5 mm]) facilitate work on long bolt applications

#7865 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Upon examination, the tiny plastic pivot bearing on the switch was non existent near the metal mounting bracket.
Its possible that it was broken off during assembly.
I think its been inconsistant for awhile as I have had a few odd 4 ball multiballs and 2 ball multiballs for a couple months now.
These 3 lock switches have to be working perfectly, or you get balls stacked up in the upper lock lane, and they wont release until you get a ball search.
I called the API help line and Barry answered immediately!

Humm I get 4 ball multiballs at times and wonder why even in seance. I know my subway switches can be a little slow to register at times. The top lock seems to usually work right.

My question is: What circumstances should I be getting 4 ball multiball?

-1
#7866 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is to be expected, although Barry said they could be sent out today.
I hope they get sent out soon so I can play my game

What's the problem? You have 12 other games to play.

Although my other game have been shuttered since Houdini has been in the house.

#7884 11 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I think I found the culprit...this sucker is suck in there and doesn't want to come out. Wonder if the servo is not working?
[quoted image]

I made the same mistake at first when looking for a missing ball but that one is a permanent ball like part that belongs there. Other than that I have not had to dig into my stage mech.

#7902 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think working on stage bounceouts and coming up with a solution would really enhance the game.

I feel like I get over 50% bounce outs and maybe more currently as my flippers are feeling a little strong. I am lucky to get 3 or more stage illusions in one game. I try hard for stage alley as a means of entering the stage as it sticks a little easier. Recently when I was modifying the ball guide on the shooter lane as a skill shot fix, I also pulled the stage alley guide and opened it up a bit since it was hitting low. Much better with that adjustment.

What is the "coining"around the stage hole? I have never used the stage eject.

#7915 11 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Did you mod per AP or another way? I did the AP mod, and it's still a hit or miss shot. Part of it might be the shooter rod...those don't shoot as smooth as others (I also removed the washer per AP). It's somewhat irregular despite pulling the shooter rod the same distance. I played another Houdini, shoots entirely different towards the skill shot. Not sure of the angle they have it set at, I think mine is 6.5 degrees.

I did the AP skill shot fix. previously I couldn't hit the top letter, now I can. I do wish the shooter rod was a little smoother. I find super skill shoot really hard.

Quoted from wesman:

These are one of the few videos I've found, and they definitely stick out. The one's I got from Little Shop don't. Plus the plastics for Houdini, the lane returns, have double layers, so I'm not even sure which one is supposed to be protected.
No one on here has used these....or Cliffy's?

I installed the little shop protectors, all underneath, on the outlanes I removed the 1" plastic washers. the little shop protectors are not as nice as others I have used. while the registration is good the mounting holes are bigger than I believe they should be.

#7916 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

That is very strange that they are not larger than the actual plastics, as is typical. LSOG knows what they are doing, I wonder what’s up with this?

the LSOG protectors are slightly larger but not consistantly. The oversize mounting holes does allow for some positioning

#7924 11 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yeah, I'd be up for a power supply upgrade video too! Seems simple enough, but I'm worried about incorrect wire placement, and drilling into the baseboard.

The power supply upgrade is pretty simple, but I do stuff like this as a day job. The AP instructions are very good and clear. wiring is simple color to color and double or triple check. The holes you drill are very tiny and only part way through. noticing the fans in the power supply and seeing another comment or two about additional noise I chose to install some rubber grommets under the 4 attachments, for some vibration isolation. This also adds some more air space for cooling, probably not needed. I hate those spring action walnut connectors so I fashioned a molex connector set for the 48volt side.

I have not done a video before but could at least take pictures next week when I am in hooking up my sub woofer which I started building today.

#7948 11 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

After reading discussion of skill shots, I'm not clear on what constitutes the SUPER skill shot. Is it something other than E-S-C?

As kdecgp mentioned above, hitting that magic target off the plunge isn't enough to activate the switch. the best is to catch the ball in the right flipper and hit the target from there before hitting anything else. I often practice my super skillshot when the other three options aren't that great.

I followed his advice on waxing my rod. it was an improvement. When I told my wife it helps me perform better she just rolled her eyes.

#7950 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The shooter rod washers that come in the game look like they were stored at the bottom of a lake from ancient Greece. They are not even round inside...ugh.
Replace them and the shooter rod sleeve with proper ones from marcospecialties.com
Use teflon dry lube on the shooter rod.

Are you sure that those washers were not part of the old steampunk styling?

My preowned machine came with the faucet shooter rod mod. the washers look good, I have spare sleeves, I might try replacing that, who knows how much rust or grit might be embedded?

I have used teflon on shooters in the past but the wax worked well this time.

My old Space Station had cronic shooter problems until I realized that the housing was cocked and not hitting the ball on center. the remedy was a simple shim between that and cabinet. I have an assortment of spare parts.

#7954 11 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

What is everyone using on there playfields for wax? Ive got a little ball swirls going on and just want to be proactive.

Blitz seems to be the standard, but a few years ago after the factory had a fire, supply was scarce so I bought Chemical Guys 3X hardcore wax. I have been happy with it.

#7960 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

About stage rejects:
I looked all over for suitable padding for the back wall of the stage.
2 items stand out.
Sorbothane and 3do sheets
https://www.sorbothane.com/shock-absorbing-material.aspx
https://www.d3o.com/products/solid-mesh-sheet/
Non newtonium polymer instead of closed cell foam.
I beleive these have many pinball uses.
In this case I wanted 1/8" thin material that would out-perform standard dead drop foam.
These materials do this and they are durable.
I cant find anyone on earth that has the 3do sheet I want so sorbothane is going on first.
I'll let you know the result, it should be way better than nothing.
I ordered a small piece from an ebay re-seller. He also has it in 1\10" thickness
ebay.com link
Im thinking it would also work on IJ and MM scoop bounce-outs.

Somewhere I have some adhesive backed thin neoprene but I can not for the life of me find it. I save all sorts of odd stuff and am fairly organized. Your sorbothane find looks like good stuff. I have used something similar for machine dampening. It should be pretty durable.

A 4 inch piece seems like a reasonable size/price. Make note of what size piece you end up cutting and let us know when you report back.

#7966 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The problem with neoprene foam is that it has to be thick to work. The same with closed cell foam.
1\8" is all I think there is room for to work right.
Non-Newtonian liquid polymer filled polyurethane sheets would be perfect if one could buy it. 3do doesn't sell direct, I need to find a source.
If i had some 1\8" and 1\4" i would redo all my games stand-up targets. Switch foam barely works and is responsible for most air-balls

I don't disagree but if I have some laying around it might be worth the try. We appreciate you doing the research.

$38 seems a little stiff, but then one could get 20 pieces more or less out of a 10"x14" and I am sure others would be interesed also.

And using it on stand up targets... That is another interesting idea. but orange ? eek!

#7990 11 months ago

when I got my game it had 450 game plays and the balls were fairly beat. I replaced them which ran me out of my spares. Pinball Life is out of stock currently, apparently their major supplier quit making them.

100 balls is more than I would care to buy at a time but 25 is doable at $28.

ebay.com link » 25 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs

#7991 11 months ago
Quoted from Platypus:

when I got my game it had 450 game plays and the balls were fairly beat and I replaced them which ran me out of my spares. Pinball Life is out of stock, apparently their major supplier quit making them.
100 balls is more than I would care to buy at a time but 25 is doable at $28.
ebay.com link » 25 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs

#7997 11 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking at possibly purchasing a Houdini and would like to know what to look for? Any issues etc. Appreciate any insight. Apologies up front as I admit I'm too lazy to go back and read (Just under) 8k post

The main issue was/is the 48 volt power supply is unregulated which isn't a problem until one is in multiball and multiple coils are firing, they can bog down. I have a PV system on my roof and my house voltage varies by 4-6 v day to night and that also seemed to cause differences in the coils. Not everybody has issues or notices them. AP offers a very generous upgrade for those who do experience problems. While this is their thread it has been taken over by owners who are not shy about voicing minor issues, but mostly offer ideas on tweaking the game. When I got my game I read back about half way, there are a few stand out folks here.

This brings up another point, American Pinball has been very responsive and supportive to their clients. The active refinement to the code has served to make this a very fun game. If by chance you are basing your decision to purchase based on many of the reviews out there, reconsider, It is playing much better now than a year ago due to the latest software. And I suspect it will only get better

My other games are 20-30 years old and I wanted a modern game. I could not be happier than with Houdini. It has tough shots which we don't always make but when we do make them it is so much fun!

#8005 11 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Are any Houdiniphiles attending the Texas Pinball Festival next month? I got tickets today. Never been...

I am thinking of it, trying to coordinate with the Tesla powerwall training I have to do down there. I missed my Caribbean sailing trip this winter and would love to get out of this fricken icebox.

#8025 11 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Likely time to replace some balls...these holding up ok? Nice and shinny?

I had used the PBL balls and now have probably 300 plays on them. had them out today and they still look very good. I am ordering some of those ebay balls.

The question is what do you do with old balls?

#8031 11 months ago
Quoted from Platypus:

The question is what do you do with old balls?

I always thought this was cool

#8050 11 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Someone help me out with a measurement please? Need to know, for transportation purposes, what the height of Houdini is with the backbox down and legs off. Want to see if I buy one if it will fit in my vehicle. Also, if you would, give measurement of the highest point of the main cabinet itself in case I have to take the backbox off. THANKS

Without dropping the back box, I figure the height to be 30" without back box it is 25"

#8054 11 months ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

I asked the seller about these- look at the listing. The title says carbon, but the category in the description says chrome. Seller said these were chrome and they too, were out of stock on the carbon ones like many other peeps (pinball life comes to mind as I get most stuff from them)….

what a bait and switch scheme!

#8065 11 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get these:
ebay.com link » 25 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs
The 100 I just bought are really nice.
Or these:
ebay.com link » 25 Oem 1 1 16 Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Pinball Machine Balls Fresh Stock New
ebay.com link » 100 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Balls

That's what I ordered, should arrive tomorrow.

If you look down on the listing under categories is says "chrome bearing balls"

All these ebay listings are from BC Precision.

I contacted them to ask which was it carbon or chrome and they said:

" They should be carbon steel if you ordered on this ad. If you
receive the balls and they have oil on them they are chromium (they should
not be but our guys packing get the ads confused sometime since there are
several both chrome and carbon).

Please let me know if you think you
received the incorrect item and we will correct the issue asap. "

Does anyone know any other ways of distinguishing carbon from chrome?

#8102 11 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Unfortunately it didn't...Cliffy told me I got his first designed set. So yeah, I had to reloosen five screws this time, and that was my last resort after going in, and removing the metal rails....the one against the black side rail, as well as the actual guide rail.
I ending up having the VUK dangle, did you secure yours? I wanted to try and remove the power coupling white clasp, but that wasn't popping out to well. Is there an easy way to do that?
Man....the nuts supporting the VUK are a hassle to remove, but far worse to get back in with standard size non magnetic nut drivers. I spent an hour dancing with two that would fall, then my hunt for them, drop them again, etc.
I found the source of my chipped playfield, I'd hoped it was just a loose flake from manufacturing, as I found it just after I raised the game for the first time months back, and with less than 50 plays. Is there anyway to repair this or should I put mylar over it to prevent more damage?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You will get more proficient over time, mostly you are only dealing with screws and nuts. just be observant where parts came from and go back. I would let heavy things dangle by their wires, support it somehow by string, scrap wire or something. The switch on that VUK has fragile connections. Eventually you may need to adjust switches, replace mosfets and coils, hopefully not for a while.

I believe you were advised to get magnetic nut drivers. I have multiple sets of non mag drivers ( use them for my work) and still bought magnetic ones just for pin work. I also have a magnitizer for my Philips drivers, That is a savior at times. I hate loosing a screw in the under playfield mechanics /switches and such. I have resorted to taping a screw to a driver is certain instances but then you have to contend with the tape if it doesn't release right once the screw is started.

Where did that chip come from? what might of caused it? did it happen with your playfield accedent? I doubt it was a ball. I would't be that concerned about those micro cracks under fasteners, you can't see them. be careful about over tightening

#8103 11 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh that sounds like an awesome product! I'll definitely check that out!
Edit. Just found this. Would this work?

I would'n't buy something for that purpose, use string, scrap wire or a couple bread bag twistys

Quoted from wesman:

Curiously, that Seance VUK is half firing. I really don't recall if it was before loosening it, and reattaching it. I do know the VUK to the right of the chest often takes two fires to hit it up into the wire form. Are these both most likely due to the issues where the new power supply came into play?

I replaced the coil on my scoop and noticed that it wasn't firing right. looking down the hole I noticed that the plunger was catching on the switch arm and had to be adjusted.

Quoted from wesman:

I'll definitely go consult that user regarding the playfield chip! What can create a situation like that?
Thanks again for all of your help and suggestions! As you'd said about your own experiences installing this, I had minimal idea what to remove, until I did, and then removed more...and more, until it was able to slide into place.

that's right, simply one piece at a time. be prepared for Vids thread, several thousand posts. I hope you find what you're looking for.

#8114 11 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you have any idea what that wire might he called?
Oh no....I haven't! Did you adjust your VUK strength? I hadn't even thought of that!

I bought one of these to magnetize them...left them on for at least a week, and they didn't get magnetized. Would having multiple on there together effect polarity?
https://m.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-parts-holder-61428.html
I might need to get those Klein's just for the sake of future efforts!

That little tray won't do much. That is for your screws and nuts when you remove them. I have one of these for magging my tools:

https://www.wihatools.com/magnetizer-and-demagnetizer?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn9mR6ZXE4AIViANpCh16ighAEAQYBCABEgIJMPD_BwE

lots of other brands out there

#8129 11 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So I know I am in the "honeymoon phase" but all the people bitching about this game ... gimme a break.
I know its hard, the shots are tight, I get a lot of bounce outs, I get a lot of rattles trying to make the tight shots but damn I still like the game. I do keep coming back for more as I keep saying I know I can make that shot, that combo etc. And this is all coming from someone who is not a good player. Will this last permanently ... nope. Will it last for a while til something else comes out we want yep. It's a beautiful game (I like the look) the BG is awesome wish MFRs still did this but I get it - its expensive.
Anyway just wanted to add something positive about the game because of all the bashing its getting in the other Houdini thread.
What would I give this game up for, not sure - WOZ probably if I didn't have to add too much $$. Maybe a Dialed In, GOG Premium perhaps. Who knows but for now this is a good solid game that is fun (FOR ME) and I firmly believe it can help me become a better player. If I can make shots on this game well ....

Most of us here really enjoy the machine and believe the bashing is undeserved. I have mine pretty well set up now.

#8203 11 months ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Hello all fellow Houdini owners!
Been over two months since the last "offical" code release.
Was curious if there was any new BETA code to test or if there are any new releases coming out soon?
I actually know this pin will get better with time but it feels the newer code is doing more conditional checking of variables during game play, I see 3-4 seconds of pause time before game will respond at times. I feel sometimes this delay causes the game to maybe loose ball count track too.
I played a Houdini at FreePlay Florida last year and it reminded me on how "snappier" and responsive the code was back in the early releases.
Anyone else notice this behavior on the newer code or is it possible my Houdini having other issues?

I regularly have a ball sit in a trough for a few seconds before the appropriate action and a few false drains, sometimes in multiball and a second to last ball drains and one is still in the subway ball ends.

#8209 11 months ago
Quoted from rosh:

There is a bug where if a ball enters the magic shop hole less than a second after a ball drains, it can end the ball prematurely, this is fixed in the next release.

Quoted from rosh:

I am not totally sure what you are saying. If you drain a ball and there is a 4 to 5 second delay before end of ball takes place, it means the game thinks there is a missing ball and is waiting to see if it has turned up. If you are at at times getting an second ball, it likely means there is an intermittent switch issue, likely in the trough, the subway or the left lock area.

I have assumed I have a wonky switch issue. even in the shooter trough balls get stalled during shoot again. and a few nudges release it. I have had shoot again time out while the ball sits in the bottom trough.

1 week later
#8295 10 months ago
Quoted from Hdmike444:

I cut small foam o’s and stuck them in
Finally playing some games, had a switch issue that needed adjustment and another switch in the lock line of three that wouldn’t let the ball roll past.
Once I got those working I was having some good games for the crappy player I am. Love the game so far and enjoy what seems to be a very deep game. Need to learn the rules.
Really wish it came with a manual though.

Learning this game is really fun. after I got mine I had played maybe 40 games before I really explored the settings, turns out I was in tournament mode, which is quite a bit more constrained than regular play. It got even more fun after that!

I am a big "manual" guy and promptly bought one for each of my other games as I got them, but they were all serious projects. Having the Houdini manual online is sort of nice, can't get lost, doesn't take up space (or carbon) and is always up to date with the latest amendments.

#8325 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Nice work on these! I was just about to finally install my side rail protector. Did you pre-drill holes in, drill them in while placed in the protector or just screw them in?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum
Always predrill , less screw-ups

pardon the pun

#8327 10 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Thank you to those who replied today. I really appreciate it. Josh helped me out (on a Saturday even).
It was a simple bios setting like was suggested earlier.
I'm all good to go now with this awesome game!
Nick

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think I'm going to cut a hole in the bottom cab to add the sub.
I've mentioned it before, but haven't had to pull out the playfield yet.

I had devised an idea of doing it with a router in my driveway without removing the playfield. But I have three feet of snow. So I built an external speaker for less than $30 and stuff I had laying around, I came up with a decent solution. I'll post it soon.

#8344 10 months ago

I hate those acorns, walnuts or whatever they are called. The brand Wago have shown up in residential wiring. I have seen quite a few failures, with melted bodies. The little spring inside simply does not make sufficient contact. They come included with many light fixtures. I usually clip them off and toss them.

My solution for the power supply was to make a molex header like most pinball connections

37D1D1D0-44F4-432E-9740-80FBC866C41F (resized).jpeg

#8345 10 months ago

The power supply has fans and someone mentioned that it makes noise. So when I mounted mine I used some rubber grommets which provide some noise isolation but also work as standoffs to mount slightly to the right on the corner block

57F46467-AD63-4FFA-AE44-DEA041CB0B21 (resized).jpegF12534C7-54FD-4F1E-9AAE-BD334995F250 (resized).jpeg
#8353 10 months ago

I think I have a switch issue in the subway. Balls tend to disappear from the game and then reappear later. yesterday during a multiball two went down the magic shop hole but only one came out of the scoop and that multiball ended without seeing that missing ball. Later in another seance multiball four balls appeared.

Should seance ever only be 3 balls?

#8417 10 months ago

Do you ever have something that you never really noticed but once you do notice it or is brought to your attention really starts to bug you?

Hdmike444 brought up Houdini’s eyes back in post #8288 page166. I didn’t understand until I realized the eye inserts are bigger than the irises. So I decided to do my own fix today. Out in the shop I found a drawer of rubber grommets. The hole size is 7/16 and a 1/2” grommet fits snug. I still got some light bleed on the rest of the insert so I found some rubber washers and put those in first. It’s not perfect bet a lot better.

F984C9DF-09AF-4327-826D-ED5D502EC93F (resized).jpeg

I had a flat sided grommet that I think would work better than the rounded ones and allow skipping the flat washer.
858C4D73-37E6-4470-ABF9-102C63C163A4 (resized).jpeg

35DFBA78-89B8-4643-ADFD-F03BE383E3E2 (resized).jpeg
#8418 10 months ago

My other change today was to add a light strip to the back box to better light the crowd. I found some cheap light strips on ebay, added a molex connector and spliced into the back box gi. The 50 cm is a perfect length

ebay.com link » 30 50cm 5050 5630 7020 Smd 21 36led Aluminum Alloy Shell Cabinet Strip Light Bar

A2123B62-2706-48FC-B5BE-D1A9DDCFDCB9 (resized).jpegE3F51772-C78A-4AAB-B019-A786AC49901B (resized).jpeg

#8431 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Still curious about a code update!

Patience Grasshopper.

#8433 10 months ago

With all of the activity surrounding Octoberfest I imagine that we are back burner priority for at least a couple weeks.

#8458 10 months ago
Quoted from Osro:

At the risk of being "that guy", I was curious if any consideration had been put into saving the top three or four high scores of the day? Getting to put your initials on a machine is always a fun novelty for new comers and it helps keep track of how well people are doing over the course of an evening get together or party. Alternately would that end up just being annoying when you most play by yourself?
I figure there's probably way more important work to be done, but wanted to throw that idea out there as it'd be transferable across different games.
Despite a few quirks I'm still loving Houdini! I've had mine since July and just put the 1510th game on it. I was also curious as to how many games other people's machines have on them if anyone is willing to divulge that info

I imagine that this could be a setting that you opt to have on or off. For a party it would be fun to have going on. I have played WOZ on location and gotten today's high score with an embarrassing bad score. I felt it wasn't a real accomplishment.

#8459 10 months ago
Quoted from Osro:

At the risk of being "that guy", I've had mine since July and just put the 1510th game on it.

That's like 5 1/2 games a day!

#8470 10 months ago
Quoted from Osro:

I've had mine since July and just put the 1510th game on it. I was also curious as to how many games other people's machines have on them if anyone is willing to divulge that info

I checked today. Since 12/23/18, when I got the game we have 499 plays. That is like 6.60 games per day!

Now I know what my wife is doing when I am out of the house.

#8500 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I tried to take some better photos of the 3/16, and it just doesn't appear good to me.
[quoted image]

I wouldn't be concerned, I suspect it's just epoxy from gluing in the mags. The metal socket on the business end is all that matters, is it misformed or pitted? The rubber handles on these tools are nice too, do they look good? a little white crude that I suspect will rub off is a non issue.

They are just tools. Kliens are good I have owned hundreds of Klien tools in my 40 year electrical career.

#8501 10 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Anyone know how to .....
1. Add a Custom Message to the machine? I know how to turn it on and off but not sure how or where you type in the message!
2. Any instructions on how to install the update power supply. The new power supply comes with the wires, all connectors on it, with it but no instructions as to what is to plug in where.
3. Lastly, I ordered the EOS for the flippers so if anyone is familiar with installing the kit from AP. Haven't received them yet but figured I would ask while posting my other questions!
Thanks!

The power supply barely fits in the recommended space. I used rubber grommets as spacers and noise isolation, post 8344 and 8345 page 167

#8517 10 months ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

I was in my local consignment shop. I noticed this and am thinking it could be a potential topper for my Houdini.
What do you think? It is kind of pricy though.
Michael
[quoted image]

personally I dislike the monkey in the game and have turned off the match play. I think it is his distressed look that bothers me.

The vintage monkey you found at least looks pleasant, at least he is dressed nice. depending on the voltage you might be able to integrate into the game.

2 weeks later
#8655 9 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

4 days.....
Still working on math riddle of 3/24 vs 4/6 1874.
Other than 13 days difference?

Your math puddle makes no sense....?

#8667 9 months ago

I got my second highest game on the new code! 19 minutes long

#8675 9 months ago

I had the seance end with one ball still in the subway. Return from beyond started and the other ball popped out and I got to play two ball RFB

#8718 9 months ago
Quoted from sgorsuch:

Well I am officially in the club...and loving it. The game arrive safe and sound today. The first thing the driver told me was that a fork lift had put a hole in the cardboard. I peeled away at the puncture, dead center about 5 inches from the pallet. The driver took it into my garage and we removed the cardboard and luckily it just scratched a minute amount of paint from the cabinet where the back box joins up , right next to the latching mechanism. I was very relieved and signed for it noting the puncture, but all appears fine with the game.i was so excited to get the game going I played the first couple games with the feet screwed all the way in on the back legs.after I raised the back legs I noticed the catapult missed every shot, so increased strength to 31 from 27 and so far 2 for 3 on putting the ball in the chest. The scoop VUK is struggling to eject ball, so I bumped up the strength a bit ,7 to 9, but still having some difficulty ejecting ball. Does the scoop need some slight bending upward to overcome this?
I was hoping to put all the plastic protectors on and all the Cliffs protectors, but still waiting on one more delivery. I think the game is beautiful and a welcome addition. The depth of the game looks great and challenging.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I am willing to bet that the fork lift driver was trying to push the pallet further into the truck. perfect place to miss.

#pinballinreno has good set-up tips earlier in this thread. I think my catapult has only missed once since I got it dialed in~300 games ago. I have tweaked some of my ball guides with improved results.

My scoop had problems ejecting at one point and I found that the switch actuator was catching on the housing and had to re shaped.

API has some other tips on their support page https://www.american-pinball.com/support/

#8760 9 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

My stage alley gate broke. Where should I look for a replacement?
[quoted image]

File a service ticket, I am sure you can work something out with Barry. I think there was a flaw in them originally. My game had a couple spares too.

#8774 9 months ago

A couple times we got served a second ball tonight, like Phantom-O mentioned. once with a jail escape (out of the scoop) and then again with Master of mystery, my wife then hit the seance multiball which ended prematurely ( I don't think the game knew we had an extra ball on deck).

#8818 9 months ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

So i installed the new Power supply anderen eos. it's better now, but they still do not feel completely strong during the game. Also i noticed
So what can i do also to get consist strong flippers?
- Install new, stronger coils, but which one?
- Install new sleves (which?)
- Install new anderen stronger return Springs?
Hope you can tell me which coils would be a bit stronger and won't heating Up so fast.
Thank you for your Help

go into the utilities menu and set the flipper settings up a notch

#8842 9 months ago
Quoted from Lilpro66:

My game has the wire gate on the stage alley lane but not the key lane. Is this incorrect?

My Stage Alley gate sticks open sometimes, I have adjusted it a couple times and it still sticks, which is no problem, I would rather the ball exit the pops down that lane than the key lane (due to drains). also it makes it easier to relight Lock

#8870 9 months ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Ok, I was having a great game, and kept getting extra balls. Then I drained and started return from beyond, which I spelled out Seance and continued my ball. Then master magician started And I played that until I was left with one ball. Once I drained the last ball from that multi ball the game ended even though I think I had a couple extra balls and I never played ball 2 or 3. Is this a bug ?

What was your score? after playing 600 games I am no where close to master magician. four letters is my best. I am yet to complete all movies in one game. And am lucky to get 6 illusions.

but I keep trying.

#8888 9 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:Trip to Houdini museum in NYC today. It is biggest collection other than Copperfield's. Q is a repro. Metamorphosis trunk is original. Burned bits are from water torture tank. Body bag is "punishment suit." Bess dress is original. The owner knows about the pinball but doesnt have one.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome, I'll have to visit it next time.

1 month later
#8972 8 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I installed the shaker yesterday and, WOW what a difference! I really like the shaker code integration with the pop bumpers and the lower catapult. I also really like the effect tied in with the elephant walking. Very cool!

I had it at the top level for a while. I am back to mid level now. more desirable.

#8973 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Houdini is an amazing game!
Cant wait for the next code update.

I continue to get two balls kick out of the scoop during jail escape and at other times. I sort of like the current code whether I deserve it or not

1 week later
#9053 7 months ago

I hate those wall nuts. I used a molex connector with jumpers where I can add future loads

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#9081 7 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Maybe I misunderstand something. When I push the button, the two eos blades are pressed together, making contact. I then force the flipper back to a resting position, while still pressing button. Doing so causes the eos blades to break contact. So why would the coil fire again and raise the flipper on its own, with the blades not in contact? If I manually press the blades together so the make contact again, then the coil fires and the flipper pops back up - left flipper does this faster than right flipper, for whatever reason. So based on this, what is not working right? I double checked the wiring and the left vs right, etc. Looks fine.

It's my understanding that if you are cradling a ball and the flipper bat gets knocked down the EOS sw opens and signals the coil to fire and return the bat to the erect position. This is a software thing not electrical connection. yours seems to work opposite, strange.

#9084 7 months ago

Does anybody else get rejects from their milkcan chute? I swear that 70% of my shots get completely into the chute and hit the guide at the 10:00 position and then kick out. I am about to reshape that guide but I wonder if there is any wiggle room. I might elongate the screw holes on the middle mount.

I'm curious if anyone else has this experience.

#9088 7 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I drooped my flippers to angle down 1/8" from the factory setting.
Milkcan shot is much easier.

I did this some time ago. I can hit the hole just get lots of kickouts.

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Oh Ya, its normal. Im a year plus into my game. Id figure i would get to this fix to. However, its part of the challenge. Soft milk can shot is the key.

soft shot is easier said than done, especially at the end of the bat.

Quoted from MightyGrave:

I bent the rail a bit and used some velcrostuff, also dropped the flippers like pinballnero. Now the shot is buttersmooth with zero rejects.

That's what I am talking about, will give it a try. My wife just left the house, good time to fiddle on the machine, she prefers that I do domestic tasks....

#9096 7 months ago

I made my milkcan lane adjustment yesterday. I pulled the lane guide and bent the curve to be a little deeper. Tolerances are tight here and I enlarged the mounting holes slightly to get it to fit back in.
I searched my shop for some Velcro stuff, couldn’t find it although I know I have some. I found some adhesive backed felt but they were small dots for use on cabinet doors. I also have some felt strips but much too thick.
Then I came across some thin textured rubber material, a 3M product intended for adding to stair treads. It’s very grippy and works great almost stopping the ball in the chute followed by a slow drop to the inlane.
After several shots into the milkcan chute I didn’t have a single reject. Now I just have to master the ramp.
76D310FA-B4FF-445D-A2C7-72079D3D0041 (resized).jpeg

#9097 7 months ago

Sometime back I set out to make a subwoofer for my Houdini. This lead me to reading up on speaker design which was much more involved than I wish.
I decided upon an 8” speaker which I ordered along with other parts from parts express for around $35.

The driver specs recommend a box volume of 1 cu ft. I built the box out of some scrap particle board I have laying around.

#9098 7 months ago

Sometime back I set out to make a subwoofer for my Houdini. This lead me to reading up on speaker design which was much more involved than I wish.
I decided upon an 8” speaker which I ordered along with other parts from parts express for around $35.
CC3DB6D6-AA49-4724-AB8B-D77281CCCCA5 (resized).jpeg

The driver specs recommend a box volume of 1 cu ft. I built the box out of some scrap particle board I have laying around. Cabinet design calls for internal bracing which I made sure to include. I didn't like the grill mounts they shipped so I made my own.

They also recommend adding some dampening material inside the box, poly fiber like pillow stuffing is common but I just used some ugly stocking caps that I don't wear anymore. winter was over anyway.
AE4B6A20-66B3-43D1-9153-D52309786FCA (resized).jpegBDE9FFF9-7E24-4C7A-BC83-A6C3D3CB09FA (resized).jpegE57F0AA8-106F-4F60-AE79-60F1182195DF (resized).jpeg

Instead of having the speaker wire dangling out the the machine I installed a phono plug on the bottom of the cabinet with internal wiring going to the amplifier in the back box. The plug is recessed so as not to catch on anything.
45443B9F-45C0-4C56-B809-37648FD7FF51 (resized).jpeg8603B3EF-8B1B-4CF5-9412-8530446D86A8 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#9132 7 months ago

I used 1/2" rubber grommets post 8417

1 week later
#9169 6 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Question about Houdini ,the one I play at Marvin’s always drains SDTM from the key lane or the lane to the left of the key lane,shots from bumpers also can drain through the key lane,very frustrating,is it a leveling issue with the game or a common problem,I may be getting one and I hate that it does this.
Thanks

mine never drains (hardly anyway). other owners have rebent the ball guide with good results. I never have had to do mine but there are three other chutes that I have been tweaking. Playfield angle might have something to do with it....

#9170 6 months ago
Quoted from konjurer:

Moved on to the knocker kit... more frustration. Shaker doesn't appear to work. At this point I don't care if I ever get the knocker to work. The problem is after powering up the game will not kick out a ball. Doesn't even try to kick out a ball into the shooter lane. Any ideas?

You likely knocked a connector loose. Buy a 20 cent tee nut for your shaker motor , any hardware store has them. using only 3 bolts is not to spec. Sorry for your frustration, It all seemed simple to me.

1 week later
#9232 6 months ago
Quoted from konjurer:

There are plastic shields over them. They're very clear so you can't see them in the image. They came with the covers and insulated barrier strips... nothing is exposed to falling parts.

I have used similar T-blocks on other projects and love them. might be over kill here with 5 slots, all you need one connection (3 wires) I really like crimp caps but have not used them on pins.

amazon.com link »

#9233 6 months ago
Quoted from konjurer:

Update on my dead Houdini. Houdini is once again ALIVE! Thanks to BarryJ at API for the trouble shooting advice »[quoted image]

I fried a coil and shorted a transistor as well as the associated fuse. Barry was great help. There are several fuses located on the under playfield. My advice is that it is best to have some of those fuses on hand. they are the little short ones 5X20 6.3amp slo blow I believe

#9239 6 months ago
Quoted from gentrsa:

Any one else have there rails dent like this, even through cardboard? Guess I need to get some heavy foam as that back box has some weight! Guess I might as well buy the power supply now and get some new rails.[quoted image][quoted image]

do you cinch the head down really hard? I have had that on other games remnant from previous owners. I would try to remove and pound out from the backside before just ordering new ones. I use towels or shipping quilts and heavy cardboard corners that are used to ship solar panels when I transport my games and don't cinch the head to body very hard.

#9241 6 months ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

The kind of side rail damage can only be a slam of head from almost as big as drop you can get. Or, the dreaded ratchet strap, over cranking those around when head is lowered.

My Congo which was a re-import had gorilla sized dents, I always wondered slam? cinch? shipping? I did replace them.

And yes, ratchet do not need to be very tight

1 week later
#9282 6 months ago
Quoted from Kenz:

On the next update I think the lightshow needs more work. It has the theme and modes just needs the code tidied up..

Tough crowd here, we can only hope for improvements but they have other games in development.

I haven't any issues with Houdini.

It is nice though, that we can talk to the designer and he is present.

1 week later
#9344 5 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

Sounds like I need the updated power supply, not sure if AC is on same circuit.

The AC is not on the same circuit, that is a 220v load.

I have solar electric on my house and on sunny day the voltage is almost 10 volts higher than at night when I am drawing power. The original power supply is wonky with voltage variation. The PS upgrade is regulated and constant. I have nearly 600 games with hardly a miss. the power supply also has a pot screw which allows you to tweak the 48V up of down a bit. I think I am at 49.8V

#9348 5 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I'm not an electrician, but I think the pin could be on 1/2 the 220v line. If I'm not mistaken, the 220 coming into the house is bi-phase (or two phase), meaning two 110V lines out of phase 180 degrees. Think of it as a 220V center tapped transformer, with the center tap grounded. So each output would be 110V and out of phase with each other. 1/2 of the house runs on one 110V, the other 1/2 house is on the other phase. The big loads (like the AC or stove) then uses both lines for 220V. If that's the case, then his pin power supply could be affected.
Maybe if there's any electricians out there, they can chime in.

I am an electrician and your description is completely right, but a circuit is considered a wire run back to the main panel and on a single breaker. It is highly unlikely that 110 loads share the same circuits as 220 loads. They are however on the same house service. If the service feeder wires are long or undersized or if you have large intermittent loads you are likely to see voltage drop during heavy loads (like the AC running).

I see the opposite effect with my solar array, during the day I have little or no load and my array is producing power causing my voltage to rise, while at night I have lighting loads and no production and can measure my house voltage as much as 10 volts less. This affected my pinball play. The regulated power supply is a good solution.

#9354 5 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

One last thing I want to check is the number of extra balls I’m being awarded. I think I got like 3 extra balls on ball one. Too many! Lol
I like the humor in the game... magicians hat shout outs to Spooky, JJP, and Stern.

It sounds like the previous owner had super easy settings. To each their own. explore your settings. I have eased up on some of mine but nobody has come close to master magi yet (600 games)

Ah, but seeing the score post that you had that was a better game than ever on my machine, bravo.

#9375 5 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

It is persistent. I have EOS and power supply, but my right flipper can hesitate or stutter during multiball and straight jacket inverted mode. Never affects the left. After more than a half year of perfect trunk shots, the ball is hitting the front lip on 27, and 28 sends it wide right. Not sure why now other than heavy ac use

I adjusted the little pot screw on the supplemental power supply. turned up the 48 volt slightly to get perfect trunk hits (after the mounting hole mod recommended by brer rabbit) you must have a meter in hand as you do the tweak.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Has your power changed a bit for the summer?
Also consider cleaning the coil sleeve on the catapult.

Yes that might be an issue. certainly worth inspecting , coils sleeves are cheap besides.

how many plays do you have on your machine?

2 weeks later
#9450 5 months ago
Quoted from Audioenslaved:

Has anyone had issues where the ball disappears in the milk can shot only to reject? I can hit the shot somewhat consistently enough but just seem to get rejection after rejection. Do I need to bend the rail on the right somewhat I’m kind of baffled as to why the ball is rejecting after going well past the start of the plastic

Mine was doing that a lot. I pulled and bent the ball guide a bit and also added some thin rubber material which works great. This solved the problem. see post #9096

1 week later
#9511 5 months ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Thank you, sir!
I'll have to see if I can get that in gray.

When I first got that material over 30 years ago, acquired by my brother who was a 3M engineer, we had gray. but it was thicker and had a more course texture. I don't think it would work as well.

#9529 4 months ago
Quoted from adborto:

Has anyone had any issues with their white general illumination bulbs? All of them on my game are flickering or “power surging” after updating to the latest code. I have the updated power supply and the power going into the game is constant. This happens during gameplay and in test mode. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated!

the GI lighting (5v) isn't powered off of the ps upgrade (48v). I have to imagine that it is a loose connector somewhere.

1 week later
#9539 4 months ago

I often get an extra ball up by the pops and don't have a clue why. I just played a first ball in a game and lost it at 17,000 but managed the extra ball, why (or how)?

1 month later
#9648 80 days ago
Quoted from Blacksnow:

I will try contacting API and see what can be done. Was hoping for an easier fix but I am just itching to get it back up and running I appreciate the help and responses. Such a great community on here.

There really is no easier fix than contacting Barry. He can guide you through the trouble shooting more directly than anyone.

#9675 74 days ago
Quoted from Pizzaman13:

It’s real so I know it should fit. Perhaps I just haven’t removed enough for it to be clear to me but optically, it just looks out of proportion.
I’ll do a little research deeper in the thread to see if I can find the reference. Thanks

It fits and was rather easy, the shooter lane protector is a little more involved and involves loosening the wood rail on the right.

#9676 74 days ago

It seems that often when I get Milkcan Multiplier via skill shoot or magic shop it stays lit for only a little bit and not the whole ball. Is this common?

#9694 70 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

If you have a female 'better half'...some nail polish will do in a pinch.

Phant-O's game will look great with pink coils!

But go ahead and give it a go. I suggest first checking resistance on that coil and comparing with a new good one, carefully remove the coil wrapper and examine the windings for wear or broken strands. You may need only to isolate the two strands (leads) You can unwind one wrap, scrape it clean and re solder if broken.

I generally dissect anything that breaks to determine the fault even if I have a replacement. Nothing to loose and plenty to learn.

2 weeks later
#9746 53 days ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

Well guys it's been fun but my Houdini was picked up last night. She went for $A9000 ($US6000) in the end.

Our_Man_in_Oz

Well that was some disappearing act. First you see him now you don't

Watch out for the velecer raptor

1 week later
#9782 46 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

What can I do to help ?
LTG : )

LTG, I thought you were the guy.

3 weeks later
#9807 21 days ago

I had a couple of the posts on one of my pop bumpers break. I have just received the replacements from API. I know others have done this repair. has anyone used a thread locker like Loctite when reassembling these? Are there any opinions as to the pros or cons to doing so?

#9810 18 days ago

While working on my machine yesterday I decided to reposition my flipper rubbers. I simply pulled them off and rotated 180 degrees and re installed. Man! what a difference that made. I can hit the milk can better and my control at the end of the flipper seems better for other shots as well. I have the clear silicon rubber that came with the game and am thinking that they were maybe a little glazed on the face from play. I am wondering if slightly abrading the surface might not be a bad idea? Others have commented on changing out to the older style grippy flipper rubber.

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