(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread

By lllvjr

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 8 days ago by bobukcat
  • Topic is favorited by 204 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

41 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #145 Houdini Pinball initial flyer Posted by HighProtein (7 years ago)

Post #184 Initial reveal at TPF Posted by SilverballNut (7 years ago)

Post #190 Introductory Price of Houdini Posted by 1iblind (7 years ago)

Post #198 Initial Pictures of Machine Posted by lllvjr (7 years ago)

Post #229 Playfield Close-Up Pics Posted by bigd1979 (7 years ago)

Post #284 Machine feature details Posted by rosh (7 years ago)

Post #312 More feature details Posted by rosh (7 years ago)

Post #385 Double switch lane picture Posted by pinballrockstar (7 years ago)

Post #420 Pinball show appearance schedule for Houdini Posted by rosh (6 years ago)

Post #434 Houdini pics from Allentown show Posted by PinballSTAR (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#10613 3 years ago

"Stan and Tom's Pinball Adventures." Friend and I drove 4.5 hours this Saturday to pick up not 1, but 2 NIB Houdini's. We are both excited and are adding all the key upgrades/mods (art blades, voodoo glass, shaker, real knocker, full Cliffy set). We both have heard about power supply. Is there an easy way to tell if we have the older or newer power supply?

Thanks!

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#10619 3 years ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

Congrats to you and your buddy!
Look at the pics in this thread — the topic gallery link above — and you’ll see the different variations of power supplies this game has had. Seems like there are 3 variations: the original; the original with the upgrade beside it; and the new type of ps where the upgrade is integrated so there’s only one big metal enclosure.
With your high serial numbers I would expect your pins have the new type.
Edit: whoa I just double checked and realized there are 1400 images in the thread lol! Search for ‘power supply’ in the thread and that’ll show bring up the different types more quickly.

Thanks JimFNB! I see EOS kits are sold out. Will there be more made available?

#10621 3 years ago

Looks like I have the new power supply, right? Boy, as many have said, this pin is built like a tank. Limited Edition, at a "Pro" price.

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#10629 3 years ago

OK, I fired up my game for first time. My 2 first issues:

1. Code was 18.8.5, so I tried to update to latest code. No joy. I reformatted USB drive to FAT32, but system looks like it goes through a reboot, but I never get message update in process or update complete.

2. I gave up on code update and tried to make sure game works. When I get ball in left ball lock, system doesn't recognize the ball is locked and thus doesn't kick me a new ball.

Any help would be appreciated.

#10631 3 years ago

Well, the drama continues. My first day trying to get NIB pin to work. I tried to update code from 18.8.5 to latest. First, I had problem with a USB drive. Got another one and this time I got the expected messages saying update in progress and update complete. Turned off machine and took off USB drive. Started back up and black screen of death. See picture that pops us back and forth.

I checked drive and I see and error log. Maybe that's a clue to what's going on?

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#10635 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

Make sure the USB stick does not have a space in the name

title of stick was ""NO_NAME" That OK? I filed a service ticket which I assume you will see.

#10638 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

Actually, the title on the stick does matter, I recently discovered the code is not happy when there is a space in the name of the USB stick. It is possible that the space was the issue and not the brand of USB stick. Certain brands/formats may still be an issue, I have yet to have one that did not work, but, not like I have tested that many. Some days someone will send me one that does not work and I'll see what the issue might be.
Is the machine copying anything out to the stick? Do you get the 'count down' to code update or does it just jump the screenwith the 'audits' message? If the update is only taking a few seconds, then it is not seeing the code. If you have not tried renaming the code package, give that a try just to be sure. houdini-gamecode.pkg

I’m stopping by my friends house who just purchased the same time and updated. I will use his same stick. I didn’t, but will double check all connections. I have not done that yet too. And yes, I did get count down and final message to cycle power/ audits. I get black screen after shutting down and turning machine back on.

#10639 3 years ago

Josh, now that I’m getting black screen, is it safe to plug in USB stick after powering machine on? I will also rename if my friends stick doesn’t work either.

#10641 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

it is safe. What is odd is it sounds like it seeing the update, but then failing, which again, is why I asked about the name of the USB stick. Does it put anything on the USB stick?

Good news, I'm 90% there now. I used my friend's USB Stick and it worked the first time. I now have latest update. And, I think I found the other issue. The #1 ball lock switch is not quite centered and not always making contact. Do I bend it or can I adjust the the angle of the switch so that it leans further down by adjusting the 2 screws that hold the switch in place?

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#10643 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check it. Some switches if loosened you can turn the body of the switch a little as needed and retighten the screws. Not too tight or the switch won't work.
If not, then bend the arm of the switch a little. Out past the body of the switch. So you don't impact the flat blade that pushes the tiny knob into the body of the switch.
LTG : )

Not much "play" with the screws, so just had to bend switch arm a bit and all is good, now working 99.5%

I have one small issue, occasionally the catapult doesn't fire unless I shake machine or hit flipper buttons. Adjust the catapult switch?

#10644 3 years ago

Now that I have my game running, time to get the key mods. I see EOS switch kit sold out. rosh will they be available again? I'm also ready to install my shaker and order side blades and real knocker. Any other key mods you all recommend?

#10650 3 years ago

Does anyone know if Mod Couple will be remaking some of the Houdini Mods? No "contact" link on their site to know any type of status.

#10651 3 years ago

Question on external Sub. I saw an old post for an external sub. Does it really help the sound and is it worth it? Do I connect directly or do I need to buy Pinnovators external sub connector?

Finally getting to play the game. I love that it's hard, even though that's one of the chief complaints. I've never played in tournaments, but I would seem to think it would be a great pin for tournaments.

#10662 3 years ago

OK, so my upper ball lock issue is more involved. I tried to bend the arm a bit, but it only lasted 10 games before it had issues again.

See my pictures. I compared to my friend who purchased NIB the same time from the same distributor. The first picture is mine and you can see the switch roller is to the left of center of the ball. Noticed his ball switch roller is on top of the ball. Mine is off to the side. So, the question is can the entire 3 ball lock hardware be shifted so it's completely over the balls? I don't want to take off the ramp unless I know it's possible for doing major "surgery."

Thanks.

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#10668 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Mines like this too. I just slightly, GENTLY bent the arm on the frontmost switch roller so it sticks out a tiny bit more, and tilted the ball guide near the front a little more inward. No longer a problem.

Thanks guys for the tips. Looks like I need to make a few adjustments, but what you say makes sense.

#10671 3 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I was thinking the bottom of the solenoid bracket has a threaded stop to adjust the post resting height - been a long time since I looked at it tho.

I plan to take of ramp so I can get a good look at the ball lock switches. I like the idea of bending/leaning the ball guide a little towards the center to help align the switch "roller" over the center of the ball more. That's what I see the real problem is.

10
#10681 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That's what I'd do too, mine is just about perfectly centered and sitting nicely on top of the ball. [quoted image]

Thanks Bob, that's a perfect picture of perfection. I plan to attempt the adjustment tonight.

By the way, here's my "modest" collection of 4 pins. Just got WWLE yesterday. Now have WWLE, TZ, Houdini, and DILE. And, oh by the way, I like my Houdini as much as the other 3 I have.

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#10689 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

If the 'release post' on the lock is too low when in the up position, then the balls won't sit under the switches correctly (they will be too far forward), if it is too high, then it won't lower far enough to release.

Josh, OK, I can look at that. If it's not high enough, can it be adjusted?

#10690 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Curious about something, what playfield does your game have in it and is your buddy's the same? You can tell pretty easily, the Mircos have jeweled inserts and the Bader's are opaque.

Bob, not sure I follow, but if I take a close up picture, can you tell?

#10695 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yeah, post a picture of the HOUDINI inserts, those are really easy to tell.

OK, I understand after looking at game. Both my friends and I have the opaque inserts. So, did I get the cheaper playfield?

#10696 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

No surprise, LTG is correct, there are multiple adjustments screws. You need to loosen the three lock nuts on the backside, and then loose the lock nut on the bottom, then changed the screw adjustment to get it to the desired height, then after things are correct, tighten it all back down.
Again, important that when it is pulled in the tip is level to the playfield.
[quoted image]

Thanks Rosh, I can do it! If I can do a playfield swap, I can certainly make the adjustments.

#10701 3 years ago

Well, an update on my NIB pin. Here's what I did:

1. I talked to Dave at API. He recommended some WD40 tech spray to "Lube" up the ball contacts on switch. I did that for the catapult switch and VUK switch. Both were sticking some. I also tried to gently bend the wires on both switches. Seem to be a little better, but catapult switch still needs a little more adjusting.
2. Ball lock switches. I took off the ramp enough to get to the switch bank. After getting ramp out of the way, I just tried to bend/move the entire bank of switches back towards the center. After that, I went to switch test to make sure all 3 ball lock switches were properly activating.
3. While taking off ramp, I noticed 2 screws holding the ramp only had one washer each. The two most visibly screws holding the ramp had 2 washers each. One washer above the ramp and one washer below. You might want to check yours to make sure all 4 screws holding down the ramp have 2 washers each. If not, it could damage and cause the ramp to break/split at these points. See pictures.

So, after doing the above, the lock switches seem to be working. I still need to adjust catapult switch. 70% time, it works perfectly, the other 30% I have to shake the machine to make the switch activate. Also, while playing one game, ball just ended and flippers stopped working ending my ball. Happened for all 3 balls. Happened once and I cleared audit. Haven't seen it happen before, but is this a power issue?

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1 week later
#10733 3 years ago

I almost have my Houdini dialed in. My only remaining issue is the seance scoop. some times, it looks like the ball hits the top of the scoop and falls back into scoop. Adjusting power doesn't seem to help.

I read old post by Rosh. What have others done to address this?

Thanks.

#10768 3 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The scoop 'hood' has to be bent in a very particular shape and angle. Sometimes you have to open it up to allow the ball more clearance - I actually had to bend it *down* a tiny bit, because the ball was hitting the top of the scoop at a high velocity, and banging down on the edge of the hole, then falling back in. Helps to take a slow-mo video on your phone if you can.

OK, I will do the slo mo video with my iPhone 11 Pro...I think it's equipped to do that and report back. Although tonight, it came out ever time...hmmm.

1 month later
#11051 3 years ago

Reporting back for duty....

1. Added the following:
- knocker
- shaker
- side art
- Cliffies
2. Adjustments:
- adjusted 3 switch ball lock. Just had to bend a little. At first, I pushed whole unit towards the pop bumpers and that restricted the pops. Move back and just bent individual switches to get right contact.
- Seance scoop. After playing with power and getting no change, I just used 3 thin washers on one side and now it works 100%. So, rather than bending the scoop, you might want to try using different number of washers to adjust.
3. Complaints:
- Sound seems to be a bit muffled. Not sure I can adjust or if installing a better sub would help.
- I have updated power supply, but like others, the flippers don't seem "snappy" like Stern games. My Willy Wonka also has relatively weak flippers, but not as bad as Houdini

Overall, I'm very pleased and this pin will be staying a long time. I'm leaving room for one more pin.....Jersey Jack...

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4 weeks later
#11404 3 years ago

which is the right Houdini water torture mod to get? What do you recommend?

#11406 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Get the one that is still available. If either are.
LTG : )

I got the Hooked on Pinball one. That good?

#11451 3 years ago

I installed the water torture mod. Took a few pictures to help. One confusing thing was instructions said red wire, but both wires on the mod were black. If you followed the black wire, you could see underneath it was red. I took a few pictures of where the 9 pin molex is. After connecting up, and turned game on, the blue light for the mod stays on. However, during the water torture mode, it starts to blink several times during the mode. Pretty cool!

Heres a link to pictures I took including a short video of the water torture mod "blinking" when the mode is in play:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0r5VaUrzZ7DMA

1 week later
#11496 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Lots of talk of flipper issues, and API just put up a coil enhancement that evens out coil strength. I put it in even though I didn’t think I necessarily needed it. I’m glad I did. Helped with scoop and now I more consistently make the ramp and other shots.
Get the knocker.
I’m guessing new code pretty soon.
Set your game to 6.1-ish degrees not 6.5.
Get a subwoofer.
500 well deserved and absolutely true proclamations that Houdini, API, Josh and the rest of the crew are awesome and I think you are all caught up

How did you connect up your subwoofer?

#11503 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Directly connect it to the sub out on the amplifier

And....I have used these Polk subs before for Stern pins in conjunction with Pinnovator kit. So, it seems I can directly connect this sub to the amp in Houdini, right?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KVQBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

#11506 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I connected speaker wire to the sub outputs r and l to the subs inputs r and left and the sub is nor moving?

I've reached out to Sandra at Pinnovators to determine if we need their kit to install external sub. Or, if using their kit makes the process easier.

#11508 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I have there kit,I posted pictures of it,a few post back,I don’t understand how it works.i wish someone that have hookup the sub would lets us now how to do it.

Reach out to customer service at Pinnovators, they will help. Or, once I get my sub and kit, I will hook up and post pictures.

1 week later
#11522 3 years ago

So here's a strange question. I purchased a brand new Houdini and just now tried to open backbox. I discover I have no key on the coin door. When you purchased, was the key already there? Also, I have a friend with same game, is it possible to use his key to open backbox? Hope I don't have to drill it out...

#11526 3 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

All keys are tied to the shooter when shipped. Should have had 4, two for coin door, two for the head.
Keys differ from machine to machine, odds that your buddies work on your machine are low.

Spoke to Dave. Gave him number on the lock to see if he has spare. The good news is, a friend with the same machine has same lock. So, I have a spare key until I fix long-term or get spare set from APB.

#11528 3 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

If your friends key works, make a copy

hmmm, didn't think of that. Make copy at HD or Lowes?

#11531 3 years ago

Well, well. I have a relatively new Houdini and have installed most of the recommended "fixes." Most recently, I installed the power/capacitor kit. All seemed to be good until I installed Pinnovator subwoofer kit. Mark/Pinnovator said to connect kit to one of the speaker wires (red/black). I did and now my game keeps resetting even after removing the kit.

I'm confused if previous poster said he used kit, but it appears he did not connect the way I did. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot or what might have happened?

Thanks.

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#11534 3 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I am sure you disconnected both kits the. Cap and the sub

Yes, I disconnected the Pinnovator kit and the APB capacitor kit. Still getting resets. APB suggested checking 5V connections...that's next up to check.

#11535 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Well, well. I have a relatively new Houdini and have installed most of the recommended "fixes." Most recently, I installed the power/capacitor kit. All seemed to be good until I installed Pinnovator subwoofer kit. Mark/Pinnovator said to connect kit to one of the speaker wires (red/black). I did and now my game keeps resetting even after removing the kit.
I'm confused if previous poster said he used kit, but it appears he did not connect the way I did. Any thoughts on how to troubleshoot or what might have happened?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

All is good. Dave at APB directed me to look at red and black wires in power supply. Black wire was really really loose. Crimped and now everything works as it should including Pinnovators sub kit.

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#11537 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

All is good. Dave at APB directed me to look at red and black wires in power supply. Black wire was really really loose. Crimped and now everything works as it should including Pinnovators sub kit. [quoted image]

Well, I spoke a bit too soon. Although crimping the black supply wire terminal fixed most of the resetting issues, I now get the game resetting after the ball is launched into the trunk. I'm not getting any resetting for the rest of the game play/coils, only when the ball goes into the trunk.

Here's what's happening. The ball goes into lower catapult; trunk opens; ball shoots into trunk; lid closes; then game resets. I played about 5 games and the only time game reset was when the ball went into the trunk. Happened 3 times in a row.

I went into test mode to test all coils related to the trunk and all work and don't cause the game to reset.

I then took of glass and manually put ball into the lower catapult to see if it would reset. The first 2 times I tried, it worked fine. The third time, the game reset.

So, things are better, but the game still resets when the ball is launched into the trunk.

I'm reaching out to APB for assistance.

#11539 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Reinstall the latest code.

Haven't done that yet. Have you or anyone else ever had resets occur?

Thanks.

#11541 3 years ago
Quoted from zahner:

Yes. I had adjusted several of my settings. Among the readjustments, I had set my Houdini letter award to “none” after completing a subsequent escape (or something like that - the actual setting isn’t the point). After I finished fiddling with my settings, the game rebooted when I pushed the start button. It was a glitch in the program.
Josh figured out that it was the Houdini letter award adjustment I had made. He said I was apparently the first person to try that setting. (BTW, future versions will not do it.) The point is it was something to do with my settings. Perhaps rest your settings all to factory and see if that helps. Confidence is a bit low since you said it doesn’t always do it, but it might be worth a try.

Thanks. Any help is appreciated. Seems reasonable to reinstall and/or reset back to factory settings, but maybe wait for the new update coming out soon.

#11543 3 years ago

More update on my resetting issues.

This morning, I was trying to get logs for Josh. When I plugged in USB stick, game immediately reset. Tried twice, and both times game reset.

After work today, I came home and started up game to see if I could replicate catapult resetting. But, this time, no resetting. Tried to cause catapult to reset, but tested about 8 times and no resets. Played two long games and no resets. Hmmm, so now it's intermittent.

#11545 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check all power connections, especially the ground connections (brown and black wires).
Check wal-nuts (if you have them installed), possibly replace wal-nuts with lever nuts

Well, played a few long games including many catapults. No resets. But, during a long game, a reset occurred while a ball was about to come out of scoop.

Next test. Josh said to disconnect shaker. I did and turned off in menu. Played a few games and no resets. Out tomorrow, but will check connections and ground connections as you say. Not sure I know what Wal-nuts are, but I think I'm getting hungry.

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