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(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread

By lllvjr

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 11,511 posts
  • 618 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by mbwalker
  • Topic is favorited by 167 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

33 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #145 Houdini Pinball initial flyer Posted by HighProtein (3 years ago)

Post #184 Initial reveal at TPF Posted by SilverballNut (3 years ago)

Post #190 Introductory Price of Houdini Posted by 1iblind (3 years ago)

Post #198 Initial Pictures of Machine Posted by lllvjr (3 years ago)

Post #229 Playfield Close-Up Pics Posted by bigd1979 (3 years ago)

Post #284 Machine feature details Posted by rosh (3 years ago)

Post #312 More feature details Posted by rosh (3 years ago)

Post #385 Double switch lane picture Posted by pinballrockstar (3 years ago)

Post #420 Pinball show appearance schedule for Houdini Posted by rosh (3 years ago)

Post #434 Houdini pics from Allentown show Posted by PinballSTAR (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1151 2 years ago
Quoted from Manic:

Even my WMS games NIB did not have the halfmoon mylars preinstalled by the slings. They were simply in the goodie bag so an op could put them on if they like. For home use they are completely unneeded and frankly look bad...especially when the edges start getting a little wax or dust on them and then they really show.
I haven't seen a privately owned machine with those PF mylars in over 25 years... from any company... why not simply include them in the bag and not stick them down?
Otherwise the first thing people will have to do is to heat or freeze them off... or simply peel them off and who wants to risk doing that on a newly cured PF?
Well that's one mans opinion anyways.

I like the idea. I would use a playfield protector if it'll be available or use nothing and have the option to put mylar on the playfield

1 month later
#1339 2 years ago

I'm intrested when shipping to Europe will start... I think first games in december will not happen so fast. But i hope the time will help to make it a great experience when its done

#1347 2 years ago

hope we will get an update soon

#1370 2 years ago

Thanks rosh for your awesome work. Big respect for what you and the AP team made !
Can't wait to get this peace of an phenomenal machine.

The color idea is great! And some new sounds would be cool. But i think you have an idea for this.

Hope the milk can shot-accuracy will raise up with the code and perfect leveled machine.
Also i hope the right "ramp" that feeds the inlane is more used.

Maybe the translites will availible at a european dealer? Or should we do a bulk order for germany ?

#1375 2 years ago

Thank you for the info

4 months later
#2953 2 years ago

Rosh: did you have any news for us (European customers) when shipping is planned ? ... Hope is before Q4

Ps: thank you for your great support and the communication to all pinheads

1 month later
#3860 2 years ago

Are there some news when the first Houdinis will arrive in Europe?

2 weeks later
#4144 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

Heading to the airport soon!

Omg AP you're genius can't wait to see Houdini in Europe

#4155 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

The first Houdini heading overseas connected to the 220 Volt 50 Hz generator. We also were able to finish up the in-rush current testing.

BarryJ: did they Houdinis for the European market with Innercab decals installed?

4 weeks later
#4601 2 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

MightyGrave... BTW: My opinion between the 2; I personally like the bronze one. I think it's more fitting for the game.

Thanks Kerry - i think you are right. Will take the Bronze one

1 week later
#4734 2 years ago

My Houdini arrives in 2 days and i'm very excited. So i want to ask if there are any advices, tips or things to look for when settingup / adjust the magic Houdini.c

Following things are actually prepared :

- New shiny low magnetic balls
- New shooterrod
- Theater decal
- shaker, innercab decals, magic glass
installed from factory
- steam punk dustcover (towel)

Thank you

#4775 2 years ago

Houdini is landed... Time for some magic

IMG_20180711_143029 (Andere) (resized).jpgIMG_20180711_143033 (Andere) (resized).jpgIMG_20180711_170814 (Andere) (resized).jpgIMG_20180711_170836 (Andere) (resized).jpg
#4841 2 years ago

So setup my Houdini today and made the first game.

I found an issue with my captive ball. It stays down the whole time. So it is near the underside playfield ramp...

If i shoot a ball in the stage nothing happens. So no mode is starts... Have to wait till the ball search brings the ball back to game via scoop.

Hope you can help me to fix the issue....
Would like to enjoy the full game

Thank you and Best regards.

#4843 2 years ago

Done during downtime i use the chance to install some mods

#4877 2 years ago

So disassembled the whole Theater and the captiball servo. Was a 30min job. For the first time not bad.

Then I open the servo and found the problem why it's dead. Two solder joints burned and it smelled strogly scorched.
I think during transport the small pcb in the servo is slipped or it was not not properly soldered by the third party.

#4880 2 years ago

Is this a fix from AP for all Houdini Owners?

btw. here is the pic of the PCB. And the first to legs are bruned

IMG_20180721_175245 (resized).jpgIMG_20180721_180102 (resized).jpgIMG_20180721_180158 (resized).jpg
#4883 2 years ago

the first sentence was related to the contribution of hawkmoon.

My first picture is to show where the servo sits and only for for documentation purposes maybe in the future someone needs pictures from some areas

1 week later
#5070 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Did the behavior of the captive ball change after your fix? When does it show up for you? Mine raises during the milkcan escape, but i dont see it much overall. Not sure what it is supposed to do in the game.

I waiting for the sparepart... There was a little confusion with my Distri, AP and me.
So I hope the sparepart is on the way to me - takes about 2-3 weeks to germany.
I don't know exactly how the mechanism works, cause i only played 3 games on my Houdini. I hope vitrland, Barry or rosh can answer that.
But I will report when i received the part and it works.

1 month later
#5798 2 years ago

I found the original servo:

#5800 2 years ago

Also there is a programmer for the servo.
Hope AP can sell them cheaper to us as revrobotics (for 30$) do, as a spare part.

#5830 2 years ago

Hey guys,

so my Houdini works now on the latest Code.
Also the whole theater works fine.

Thanks to Barry and the AP-Team for Support us!!!

During the game, I was able to observe three phenomena:

1: Catapult shot
Coilsetting is 27 ball goes strong right next to the trunk.
Coilsetting is 26 ball goes right in front of the trunk

I put on new washers to the coil and the arm of the catapult so there is now no movement to left or right.
Any idea how to fix this? - Or can some share a picture of this lower catapult and how it is adjusted?

2: Upper Vuk and Scoop Coil strengh varies during game
Coilsetting is UpperVuk is 8
Coilsetting is Scoop is 6

Sometimes it need 2-3 attempts to get the ball back to the game. Sometimes the first attempt works perfect.
It seems like the voltage is going down....

3: Trunkmultiball - left flipper spongy
During trunk multiball the left flipper lost the power for a a few milliseconds and dropped.
Then it worked normal till the next ball lands on it.
Enabeld "AutoBoost" but didn't solved my problem.
During the seance-multiball it worked flawless.

Hope you can help me to enjoy the game!
Thank you

#5839 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Your power is probably going up and down at the wall socket.
Get the wall voltmeter I outlined in an earlier post.
Get the Variac: link »
Without it all of your game adjustments are subject to power from the wall changing.
I installed the variac and set it to 117v-118v. The trunk shot was amemic at 117v but still worked, 118v was just about perfect and is making the shot 99% of the time.
With the variac, If I find that the coil adjustment I want is between settings like the trough at 7 and I want 7.5, I can just nudge the power up .5v
Now my game adjustments make sense and dont change every 15 mins, finally Im getting control of this game and dialling it in properly.

I cheked the Voltage:

It is between 231,xxV and 229,xxV most of the time is 230,xxV

#5841 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I plugged in a visual meter into a wall outlet on the same circuit/breaker to observe the power while playing.
This told me a lot about my location.
I can see the power before, during and after a game to make an assessment of what is going on in the game at various power levels.
It has been an illuminating experience and I look at my games differently now as far as how they play and why there are differences day to day.
All of my games are affected by voltage fluctuations. Houdini more than others, but a big change affects all of them in different ways.

I did the same... But this +/- 1 volt.... From 230v. Never thought that it has such a big impact...
I thought the Transformator in Houdini bring it down to 118 and hold it in a constant level

#5843 2 years ago

Sorry but that is no solution for me.
My poweroutlet in the gameroom gives 230v +/- <1% variation constant. Never more then 2,3V +/-. So i think my powersupply in my game room is pretty fine. And all other Pins works flawlessly...

I hope AP finds a solution for this phenomenon. And i hope it comes from software and proc, so maybe Gerry can help to figure out a good solution.

I will ask a friend of mine. He is tv and radio electrican and maybe he has an idea to fix this issue before/at the Transformator.

I'm not willing to spend 100-150$ extra, only to run this game how it should from factory.

So hoping we'll see a good solution to fix this phenomenon.

#5845 2 years ago

Did you have an how to or pictures? I have some EOS switches in my storage

That would help me

Thank you

#5863 2 years ago

So leveled the pin corretly and followed Barrys advice for cleaning the catapult.
It worked for 3 shots and then it goes a little further to the right from shot to shot.
Is the Switch maybe not adjusted corretly? Or can I also do other things to get it work correctly.

#5865 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

In short we all need a separate power board for catapult. Until this happens we are chasing our tales on this lower catapult.

This was not the answer I wanted to hear *Fingers crossed there comes a solution*

#5889 2 years ago

I only can backhand the scoop. But no ramp or Inlane...

Put a thicker washer to the catapult assembly. Then you have no movement. Had the same issue before cleaning. I clenead it and add a thicker washer.

Btw: can someone share a picture oft a "perfect" Flipper aligment for houdini?

#5900 2 years ago

Quick questions:

I want to change some of the GI-Bulbs. Which voltage does the GI use? 5V or 6,3V.
I have a lot of Comet 6,3V pinball bulbs - can I use them?

Also I want to change the LEDs of the Spotlights (Trunk, Stage) are they 12V?

Hope you can help me.

Thank you and best regards

1 week later
#6074 1 year ago

maybe green

convolux (resized).png
#6201 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Here are the installation instructions for the power supply also available on our website. click on the first page.
[quoted image]

This looks good.

Is there currently a coordination with European distributors how to work it the way with the Meanwell RSP-750-48?
A solution for us european customers through the distributor and AP would be great.

Will also the Menwell RSP-500-48 work? It is much cheaper in europe.

#6212 1 year ago

I have problems with the voltage. (See posts before)
So I'll need a fix. Shipping is expensive from US. And i bought the houdini at an European Distributor. So i will contact him. But if there is no solution like all Distributors in Europe get powersupplys from AP and send Them to the customers (what might be possible) or any other Chance to get one.
i'll have to find a solution for myself.
And so i have 2 options buy a variac or a powersupply both are about 145€ here in Europe.

So our european law say that i have 6 month time to mark a problem and the Distributor have 2-3 trys to fix a problem. AS a customer the Distributor has to find a solution for me.
And then the distri has to find a solution with the producer (about costs and stuff)

#6279 1 year ago

Changed my GI to warm white - and wow the game looks much better now.

Quick question, which voltage is used for the led stripe?

Want to change it for warm white

IMG_20181002_151710 (resized).jpg
#6282 1 year ago

I will do some pictures later with my camera. mobile phone camera won't show the true colors.
Also changed the white flashers to purple
Here 2 snippets

IMG_20181002_151717 (resized).jpgIMG_20181002_151937 (resized).jpg

#6316 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What led bulbs and led strip did you use.
I like the idea of softening the color in the rear under the chrome wireforms and ramp.
If they were RGB it could be controlled via the menu.

I will make pictures today, yesterday it was a hard day...!

I used comet frosted warm white (6,3VAC) and for the two 12V lights (Trunk, Theater) I used purple Comet 8 SMD #906 FLASHER.

For the Led stripe in Background i will first test some bakingsheet and if it wouldn't look good I will test Lees colorfilters (in germany around 6,37).

And the last try will be a50cm warm white Led stripe.

Lees color filter (resized).png

#6319 1 year ago

The backingsheet is not so good. Looks a bit cold. I will now order a frosted warm white led steile.

Also between the Flippers i will add a warm white stripe

IMG_20181002_151710 (resized).jpgIMG_20181003_114739 (resized).jpgIMG_20181003_114837 (resized).jpgIMG_20181003_114845 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#6455 1 year ago

Changed the cold white stripe led against an orange/yellow stripe. Looks a bit antique now and fits perfect to theme...

Sorry for tha Bad quality pics...

IMG_20181013_220025 (resized).jpgIMG_20181013_220304 (resized).jpgIMG_20181013_220448 (resized).jpg
#6457 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Looks great!
I think I want to do the same or similar.

Looks way better in persona. Will try to Make a picture with a better camera tomorrow

#6475 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

I can change the GI bulbs in the back, but not sure about the led strip. It seems tightly wired the the back wall of the playfield. Hard to see how to disconnect it.

Its easy you have 3 screws in the backpanel.
Then you have a cover (black) which is between the backbanel and the metalbar with the stripe attached.

For peel off the stripe from the metalbar, the cables ar not to tight.

The yellow wire is 12v (+), the yellow/black is (-). You can cut it directly at the beginning oft the led stripe.

The whole change was 10-15 minutes and very easy. I used 2 wago clamps for easy install without soldering.

1 week later
#6557 1 year ago

Hope we European customers can get the powersupply fix from our distributors.
Actually no response from them how to deal with.

Hope AP will find a solution with them, so that the european distributors can fullfill their warranty to us.

Actually i play Houdini not a lot... Cause with the mushy flippers are not really fun.
But I'm looking forward to get the powersupply hopefully in the next 3 month so that i can enjoy this great game more then yet.

#6568 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The EOS switches are a must in my opinion. Its the first step to making the flippers strong.

EOS installed. It helped a bit. But you can feel that all Coils sometimes have not enough power or too much:

- Scoop kickout need two tries, somestimes one but the ball comes out not in consistent pace.
- Trunkshots work 2 shots in a row and then 3 shots. The ball lands in front of the trunk or flyes against the trunk.
- VUK to right ramp works every second ball.
- Flippers feel ok, then they feel overpowered and the targets creating airballs.

#6571 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Sounds like your a candidate for the Power supply upgrade. Have you ordered it yet?

Hi Eric,

i wrote my Distributor and AP. No answer from the distributor yet. AP told me the solution is actually only for US and Canadian customers, cause shipping is high and they have to figure out how to deal with.

Also our european law says that issues that are displayed in the first six months must be eliminated by the distributor. So I hope my distributor comes his duty to fix the issue (he has three attempts). Either he fixes the error (powersupplyfix) or he reduces the purchase price (then I would order it directly from AP).

Unfortunately, it is very annoying that it is going on like this. I would swap everything myself and relieve the istributor, but I'm not ready to pay another $ 150 + shipping + tax + customs from my own pocket when we have consumer protection laws in the EU.

But in spite of everything I'm happy with the communication and support from American Pinball. Barry and the whole Team do a phantastic job. Also I like houdini. It's a great fun game and I hope someday it will work flawless!

#6576 1 year ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Sorry, just saw this post.
I shot the ball into the stage just as the announcer counted down to zero from a Film Mode.
Bullet Catch was the mode on the stage mini LCD.
Door shut on the ball, then nothing for 20+ seconds.
The Bullet Catch mode never started. A ball came out of the scoop and then it was just random play. No announcement on shotting this or that or the video associated with Bullet Catch mode.

Looks like a defective motor for the captive ball. Had the same problem and got a new theatermech from AP.

#6629 1 year ago

My Distibutor will contact AP soon, to send me the powersupplyfix.
The wait is over and there is light at the end of the tunnel

#6682 1 year ago

It would be nice if Josh can implement deeper/more settings for sounds.

The Indian needle trick sounds are way to loud ( to heavy for my ears) and the background sounds / music are not loud enough.

It would be cool when we can adjust sounds also via Software like jjp and stern offer the settings.

Hope too See it an update

#6706 1 year ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Thanks Josh &amp; Barry - kind of what I figured (i.e. never say never).
Glad I've already got my Houdini nonetheless. It's a bitchin' game and Oktoberfest is on my watchlist!

Yes my Thanks goes to the whole AP-Team!
Hope you have enough spareparts for Houdini

Can't wait to play Oktoberfest here in Germany

3 weeks later
#7248 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I ordered today a variac to help to see if the helps my troubles with the catapult, will let you know how it goes with it. (For EU there is no other power solution as of yet.)

Good decision! I installed my variac and it helps a lot. No week Flippers, stable power for catapult and all coils ! Now Houdini is More fun then before.

But I hope AP will bring out the fix for european customers.

@ rosh: thanks for sharing the code. Will try it today.

#7267 1 year ago

Installed the variac (while power fix for Europe is not availble at the moment) and it worked good but now after a fews days the catapult is down to 50 - 70% ....

Sometimes its pretty constant and then it goes to right or in front oft the trunk.

I cleaned all parts of the catapult and now i'm out oft ideas.

What else can i do. Read about the dremelmethod, but im not sure how to adjust the arm or the whole assembly.

Hope you can help me and. Give me some input.

#7289 1 year ago

Thank you pinballinero.
Dremeled the assembly. Now it works pretty stable when i move the ramp a bit to right.
If i don't move the ramp the ball will hit the ramp every second attemp.

I will figure it out how i can move it better so that the ball won't hit the ramp.

#7291 1 year ago

Moved the ramp and drilled New holes. Leveld the pin to 6.2 pitch and adjusted the variac..

Et voilà - catapult shot is now 9/10

Thanks for your help.

So i noticed since the New code update the left flipper drops sometimes for a second.
Before the code update i hadn't this phenomen. EOS is installed.
Maybe i have to reseat the EOS cable or has anyone the same phenomen ?

IMG_20181125_121617 (resized).jpg

IMG-20181125-WA0001 (resized).jpeg
#7397 1 year ago

So I had a league night yesterday. Also Houdini was in the lineup.
And regardless Houdini was tweaked and had a variac for constant power the game had not enough power on the coils.

Ball one it was ok and all worked flawless but the next ball all horrible - It was not possible to shoot at the theater or up the ramp.
The people were very annoyed at some point... That's a pity, as it's a great device, but it's no fun without power on your Coils.

I hope the powersupplyfix for us european customers is ready to ship to our Distributors, so that we can enjoy this game!

#7399 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Why don’t you have them increase the coil settings?

I also increased the coil settings first, but the coilstrength has changed significantly during each ball.
And I don't want to adjust the coils every 5 minutes...

#7404 1 year ago

Houdini has it's own powerline + variac.
The other games played perfect.
So i think it's ll about the powersupply.

@ piballinreno: i hope you will find a solution for extra 20v.

I contacted my distro yesterday hope they can delivery me a fix due to the european warranty (2 years) and it should cost me nothing... Will see what happens.

Man i love this game and want to enjoy it and make some promotion for AP so that more people can play these games and support AP.

Hope Houdini turns out great with a New powersupply.

2 weeks later
#7576 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Had a slight bug tonight.
After a 6 ball multiball, i went into bullet catch.
The ball failed to eject out of the scoop.
When the mode ended/timed out, the ball finally ejected back into play.
Odd behavior I haven't ever seen before.

had the same problem while starting bullet catch, but first after the update.

BTW: As a european customer I still waiting for the powersupplyfix Hope they will find a commitment with the european distributors.

3 months later
#8636 1 year ago

Can someone provide me the actual Beta Code. Or do WE know when the official Release comes out?

1 week later
#8816 1 year ago

So i installed the new Power supply anderen eos. it's better now, but they still do not feel completely strong during the game. Also i noticed

So what can i do also to get consist strong flippers?

- Install new, stronger coils, but which one?
- Install new sleves (which?)
- Install new anderen stronger return Springs?

Hope you can tell me which coils would be a bit stronger and won't heating Up so fast.

Thank you for your Help

#8820 1 year ago

Thanks for your answers

Game ist Setup to 6.3 and ramps are fine. But when a multiball starts i don't have constant Power to bring them Up the ramp or around the orbits...

I want to try all possible ways to get constant strong flippers.

I will lower Pitch to 6.1 and will tune the Spinner First.

But If it dindn't Help me i have to figure it how I can modify the Hardware .

1 month later
#8990 1 year ago

So we had our League night today and i have to Report some bugs:

1. Flippers are weak.
I have the Upgrade powersupply and all coils Work perfect, only the Flippers are very weak. I have installed EOS switches and rebuild the flippers. But i it seems as they didn't have enough Power.they feel very spongey and the shoots are mit working ...

2. The left.flipper sometimes is virbrating a Bit ... and you can't Control the ball.

3. In a 3 Player Game the ball get stdm and in the ball through. But These round wasn't finish for this player. After 30-60 senconds a new ball was served for 4 Times. Then WE rebooted the Game... And it worked normal..

I Hope thes Problems can geht fiexed with a Code update. The Main problem are the weak Flippers / coils during gameplay. But i will Not give Up thus game, cause all Others coils working perfect.

Hope the ap-team can help me !

#8992 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page 3-20 in the manual ( you can download it from ) has coils you can adjust, have you made yours stronger ?
LTG : )

Yes they are 24 both Sides. And Sometimes they are strong so i get Air balls and Then they are very weak. If you Press the Buttons a Bit longer the Flippers became weak and If you Push the Button hard and fast they are wrong but you can't aim..
I Hope thus can bei with fixes with a tweaked Software Update

#8994 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'm not sure software is the issue. Please check connections involving them. Flipper coils to board. Power supply to board. Upgraded power supply to board. Could be a weak solder joint or connection.
Also the one that vibrates. I'd check the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire going from the coil windings to the lugs. Easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
LTG : )

I want to Install new WPC coils and rebuild the flippers and hope it helps. The new powersupply ist very good. But only for all Others coils except the flippercoils. So i don't why ... I will Check tomorrow all Connections... But how Ican Check them? Can i messuare them with a dmm ?

#9002 1 year ago

The Game ist awesome No doubt. But the mushy flippers, also during one ball drive me nuts. The Game has a Lot of potential.The Power supply is very quiet and the coils (Trunk, Vuk, scoop,) working perfect. Only

I hope AP can provide a fix. This game would be
Perfect if it has a permanently consistent coil Power.

First I will follow LTGs advice, but maybe its possible to find a solution by tweaking the Boards and coils...

#9007 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Have you plugged a meter in the outlet the game is plugged into?
One that you can visually see what the wall power is during the game, especially during the time that the flippers are weak.
I use mine all the time to determine if it's my game or bad wall power.
URBEST Wall Flat US Plug AC 80-300V Voltage Panel Power Line Volt Test Monitor Gauge Meter AC 110V 220V Digital LCD Voltmeter for Household Plug into Outlet to Measure Voltage link »

I have a variac between Power Outlet and Houdini. It's set at 227v and it varies between 228 and 226V.
And with the Power supply all coils work perfect except the flippercoils.

I will measure the resistance of the flippercoils and maybe i change the coils for stronger wpc coils and will Hope that a solution will Come up some day

#9008 1 year ago

Maybe the AP Team can add a setting for Flipper Pulse Length from 30ms - 40ms. I think it could Help to let the Flippers feel Mode Solid....

#9009 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'm not sure software is the issue. Please check connections involving them. Flipper coils to board. Power supply to board. Upgraded power supply to board. Could be a weak solder joint or connection.
Also the one that vibrates. I'd check the solder joints at the lugs, especially the thin wire going from the coil windings to the lugs. Easy to have a crack or break you can't see.
LTG : )

So checked the Connections today and reseated all coil cables. And it's the same result. So now i Had pitched the game to 6.0 - 6.1° and it feels a Bit better but If you try to hit the right scoop from the left Flipper tip it feels so weak...

The Input voltage from the new powersupply is constant 47.9V. so i think there must be something Not 100% working with the coils, Code and Board.

In my mind there are these possibilities with could Help maybe combined...

- Settings for coil pulse with a Codeupdate
- tweaking Code (for Hardware usage)
- installing stronger coils or modify existent coils
- extra "bypass Board" for the coils...

I Hope the AP-Team and maybe Gerry St or/and some technical guys can figure out a solution, cause with octoberfest they got some new experience and I think they have "Lessons learnd" and know its possible to fix this behavoir.

Next step for me is to rebuild the Flippers and Install stronger coils.

#9013 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

More of an FYI, not criticizing: You really need to use an oscilloscope to watch the coil voltage variation when the flipper fires, a DMM may not catch it since it probably samples slow. A scope measures in the time domain, so you can measure the voltage and look for droop when the solenoid actually fires.
There's other factors too (i.e was the other flipper being used at the same time?). Ditto for anything else that draws high current from the 48V line.

Thank you for your information and yes i think i need an oscilloscope. The dmm i connectect with crococlamps gives me a little Feedback but its 47,xx during gameplay... Its a little indicator. But you're right with better Tools you can locate Problem.

So i got the weak Flippers during single ball gameplay. I Shot the right Orbit and get the ball Back on the left, hold the left Flipper aim and go for the scoop and it felt weak when i Go for the Shot. In my mind its Something with the Pulse rate. Cause when i dont Press the Flipperbuttons Long i have more Power in the flippers.

I hope some find a solution cause i like this game so much.

#9061 1 year ago
Quoted from rosh:

It can, but various certifications are much, much tougher if you are running over 50V. It will also increase electronic damage in the case of a short.

But if its possible and the Power Driver 16 board accept DC power up to 80V why not give a try to more inputpower for the system. I found a powersupply with 60Vdc 20A 1200W. Why not give a try or is it not good for the coil, cause not the EOS "kill" the highpower?

Also found a "DC10-60V 30A 1500W To 12-90V Boost Converter Step Up Power Supply Module" and maybe it can be set up between the power supply and the PD16 board for increase perfomance.

Today I will setup the Voltage on the power supply to about 51V and intall new coils. Hope it works better then.

TomDK: If i think it's the houdini i know, then the power supply is way to loud. Mine is very silent... I can't hear it if I open the door

#9063 1 year ago

So i did following now:

Set new Power supply to 51V Output voltage.
Installed FL 11-629 coils and adjusted coil-settings.
Leveled pin at 6.2°

And boom works way better then before. Not perfect but better!!! During seance mb the flipper will not collapse and the ramp ist makeable. So will keep watching how it ist when the game get stressed.

tomdk maybe WE should Talk together for some Tips

Maybe it's possible and better to Bring the output Power voltage between 60 - 70v for much more constant coil power.

#9065 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I would say 60v would be about right at 6.5 pitch or lower. It's not over the top and very manageable.
Too much power and you get too many stage rejects.
The 48v is just too weak with all of the other things running, flippers collapse too often.

So Made 10 Games in a row and it's better but during the game the flipperpower is Not constant. They feeling mushy then super strong and so on.

My Input voltage was fixed at 226 - 227v.

It's better then before but it needs more improvements and tweaks to get constant strong Flippers.

Also i noticed the new powersupply (with the cheap China crappy Fan) is very loud with 51v and when i Play more then 3 Games in a row.

I will thirst try a step Up boost converter and Hope i can increase the Performance of the coils. But i think its better to Install a new Power supply with 60v, 20A and a better fan.

Also i hope rosh can tweak Something via Code (See previous Posts) and maybe AP Had an Idea for an daughter Board.

#9068 1 year ago
Quoted from rosh:

The newer power supplies are adjustable to some degree, and taking it up into the low 50s will likely have benefit. At some point just having a longer pulse times will do nothing since the flipper will be fully extended in 30ms or less.
Keep in mind if you increase the power supply voltage, you will need to lower down some of the coils. This does not apply to the lock releases, which are really time adjustments not power adjustments. But VUKs, Scoop, slings, pops, catapults, etc. could end up being too strong after changing the voltage.

Current flipper coils are equivalent. Keep in mind our coils have no lugs, which I think is safer in that there is less high voltage exposed under the playfield.

Thank you for your Input and explanation. And yes i Had to lower the coils. Also Yes your coils are safer and with the plugs its better. And yes you're right less High voltage is less dangerous. But something is responsible for the behavior of the mushy flippers.

STERN had a similar "problem" with LOTR coils and in the last Code ist was possible to change some Parameters of the coils:

The adjustments are described as follows:

53 FLIPPER ADJ 1: Set between 05 to 40. Default is 10. This adjustment sets the minimum fire time for a flipper coil in milliseconds.
54 FLIPPER ADJ 2: Set between 40 to 60. Default is 50. This adjustment sets the maximum fire time for a flipper coil in milliseconds.
55 FLIPPER ADJ 3: Set between 0 to 10. Default is 3. This adjustment sets the amount of time to fire the coil after the EOS switch is seen in milliseconds.

I only want to give some Input for new Things to Check and test cause i like this game so much and
I hope WE all find a solution together.

#9070 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Great work and input !
I am compeletly "with you". Same for me .. I like the game but the coils are a nightmare and no fun to play on this level. As I stated , the former owner sold it to me and was happy to have it out of the house due to the problems. He "lost" several hundred Euros in 6 month with the game.
To the powersupply: Please listen to my video .. than you can hear that it is the powersupply fan working faster when the door is open .. this makes no sense ! The voltage is not changing with door open or closed , only the fans noise is changing.
If I can play the game with more fun I would be willing to buy an other powersupply. The "official" one in my machine is not labeled , looks like china stuff and I can not see a screw/potiometer to change the output.
Today i will bring in Cliffys to protect the playfield ...

I heard the noise your powersupply made. And its Not normal. I found a powersupply for about 75€ at Amazon. But its not really quite, maybe its possible to Change the Fans. I think it would be a good attemp.

But i'm Not shure If it will help.

It would be good to know how much ampere will needed on the "highvoltage Input" for coils and Magnets / powerconsumation is.

Also still interested why the coils Flip between beeing mushy and Strong during a one Ball game.

#9087 1 year ago

I bent the rail a bit and used some velcrostuff, also dropped the flippers like pinballnero. Now the shot is buttersmooth with zero rejects.

#9093 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

You may have posted this before, but do you have any pictures that would show what you did? Thanks...

Sorry Didn't make any pictures cause it was a easy 10 minutes job. You have to unscrew the milkcanrail (one Nut). For the Long plastic you have to unsrew both nuts and two screws from the plastic with the stand offs and both screws where the plastic sits in the woodrail.

I bent the "feets" on the laneguide a bit up. So that the laneguide is leaning backwards a bit. Fits perfect.

Also ordered a new 60V 20a 1200W powersupply from Amazon today. Want to test how it works. Will give a Feedback ob friday.

#9095 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

REALLY BIG shout out to API customer support and Barry!
15 month owner of game and the customer support is amazing. Contacted Barry and he was able to help me out very quickly.
Top Notch service as always and a very dedicated team at that factory!
Over on the oktoberfest thread I see the same dedication and looking forward to many, many years of American pinball unique games.

Ditto - AP Support is TOP NOTCH! Hope they will produce more fun games over the next years. And one game per year is a perfect turn

#9103 1 year ago

So i installed the new powersupply ( 60v/20a/1200w) and changed the coil Strings in menu.

My First Impression is that the coils are very powerfull. and the Flipper powersettings Go only down to 15. Hope AP can Change the Options down to 10 for Minimum.

But the main Problem ist still there, the Flippers lost Power during gameplay. In one second they are very Strong and then they Change to extrem weak and you can't Hit anything and Back to Strong.

The new powersupply helps

the cause of the behavior can only be software-related or it ist somewhere between the PD-16 coil board and the flippers.

I Hope that you Guys can help me to fix my lovely Houdini. I live this Game and won't Accept this weak, mushy flippers. Hope WE all can find solutions.

rosh: IS IT possible to give us more settings options for Flipper coil Power? Down to 10 would be very nice.

#9105 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's not just the flippers. The kickout from the right scoop is still very inconsistent. Sometimes the ball dribbles out, other times it rockets out. Has to be something to do with the board set/software.

OK vireland Glad that you think is Something with the Boards or software.

Hope AP will figure Out a solution to make this Game "Playa" great.

#9106 1 year ago

Maybe it might be possible that the input voltage (Wallpower) fluctuates and this affects the 5V rail for the p-roc boards? So that the voltage is not constant 5V?
What happens when the boards get not the full 5v but only 3, 95 - 4,75 V or so, owing to wall power fluctuations.

#9108 1 year ago

I'm very thankfull for the API-Support ! Hope API can give me some more hints how to fix this behavior with the inconsistent coil power.

So 10 minutes ago I orderd a 5V, 10A Powersupply. I Will install it tomorrow to get consistent 5V for the boards and to find out if something changes.

#9112 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

It is very strange that some people have real bad powerproblems, others not ...
In Germany is a Houdini for sale for 6500 Euro that is 1000 under NIB price.
Too bad that this game is loosing worth so fast ... I think I willalso get rit of mine due the issues.
Was an very expensive excursion to API , my trip to Heighways Alien was not such expensive

Yes it's Strange but i won't give Up this Game and Hope for AP Support

#9114 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Ive been reading wishing I could help more.
Which country are you in?
Been thinking about the inline power filter on the other side of the power cord in back of cabinet. You go from wall outlet, right into that filter, then to either transformer or the new power supply.
Is that correct filter for euro power?

Hi Eric,

Living in Niedersachsen (Germany) so i will Check the Inline filter. My I try a 230v Noise Filter.

Thank you for your Help and Input.

#9117 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Any chance you have a multimeter or an oscilloscope?

have a multimeter what should I measure?

So here is my config:

- 230V Variac set to 220V - 221V
- Powersupply (60V, 20A, 1200W) @ 54V fixed
- Powersupply (5V, 6A, 25W) @ 5,2V fixed
- Powersupply (old) for 12V
- Installed EOS Switch
- Pitch @ 6,2°

The flippers have power, but the scoop and flippercoils still inconstistent with "power". The new power supply helps to compensate the "low flipper power", but you notice that the flippers loosing force for some seconds and then they are strong.

Maybe I have to check EOS switches.

The Inline Filter is a DELTA 10GEEG3E

idiosyncrasies - yes a lot - and I hope Multimorphic and Josh can help us

#9122 1 year ago

Can someone be so Help full and Post me eine Pics of the correct Dip switches and cablesettings for the coil Driver boards.

Also IT would be interesting which PCs (Hardware) is installed in the Games that Work "perfect" maybe there ist Something wrong with the setup...

1 week later
#9147 1 year ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

do all the owners of the houdini pinball machine have temporary power losses in the drummers, especially in multiballs?

For loosing power during multiball the "upgrade powersupply" helps alot.

The main problem is the uncontrolled power loss of the flippers during gameplay, and I hope there will be a solution soon!
Rosh if you need a "Subject" I hope that i can help.

#9149 1 year ago
Quoted from sebseb12:

I have to receive the EOS and the new power supply (AP does it with my supplier in France).
I know these pieces will help a little. Me, all my coils work properly (catapult ...). My only problem is the drummers who lose from time to time and their power temporarily either in multiball or single ball (even if it happens more often in multiballs). Jos is working on the problem. He thinks it comes from the control system. The goal is to help Jos find the problem and the solution. So, if people who have these problems, they can write it.

It would be good if we can find a group of people with this problem which can help Josh. I would help and test things like i did in the past.

So I noticed following things during gameplay:

--> After booting LED-Color is white and blue for the inserts.
--> if the ball goes to the pops and activate them, the light (Spots, GI) is flickering...

#9186 1 year ago

If it's a control system problem. I hope gerry Stellenberg can provide a firmware update for the Hardware and if Josh is working on an update which makes all a bit smoother - it would be great.

I would help if I get the instructions what to test or I would try out new code and firmware updates etc.. the most important thing is that we get the accidental flipper power losses fixed!

#9206 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I think it's not a power issue but rather, lost pulses somewhere in the data chain.
Intetference that causes the flippers to lose communication.
Possibly needs a firmware update. If so then it's difficult to address.
Might need to hook the PROC to a PC to flash it etc.

Hope that would be the easiest way. Would do it instant if i get the firmware
So now I'm 4 weeks in canada and maybe if I'm back I can upgrade houdini

#9211 1 year ago

And now it would be could to know which Houdini buildnumbers are affected by this phenomenon.
Maybe only a small part is affected.

My Buildnumber is 1407

#9217 1 year ago

Happy to hear that.

big thanks to Josh and Gerry

Fingers crossesed you find a solution

4 weeks later
#9380 1 year ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Thank you to Barry from API !
Today I picked up the second powersupplie from customs and a EOS set plus knockerset.
Hopefully new powersupply and EOS will make the machine playing better.
First extra powersupplie was loud as hell and had breakdowns after longer playing.

Please Report back, If it helped and how it Houdini plays now.

1 month later
#9544 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's not just the flippers. The kickout from the right scoop is still very inconsistent. Sometimes the ball dribbles out, other times it rockets out. Has to be something to do with the board set/software.

Yesterday i played the Houdini which is in the Showroom of pinball universe.

This Game worked perfect. Full coil Power the whole time. And they told me they Had the Power supplyfix and the Last Gamecode in it.

#9549 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe a code update to celebrate it!
I'm still having a brief flipper drop/disconnect during heavy load periods.
It's not terrible but should be addressed at some point.

me too... one second full power and next second half of the power, noticeable mainly on the left flipper.

Played another machine with no problems.... Maybe they had a beta code ord a meanwellpowersupply?
There must be a difference on the this and our machines.

#9552 1 year ago

But in my Case it's the whole Ball Long... every 1-5 Seconds it changes the Flipperpower.

I'm not sure If I should buy a meanwell powersupply and test this one.

Or the machine i played Had a New Beta Code.

At the Moment It's very Strange and I hope it can be fixed cause i Like this game and don't Want to sell it.

#9555 1 year ago

That was also an Idea. Maybe it helps to Gear Up the Computer like the Dialed in where it helped alot

1 month later
#9602 11 months ago

So some Update from my Game.
With the amazing help from Barry I got a fix for my Houdini.

I checked alot stuff the Last two weeks and installed new coils, and a new eos kit.

Also reseated ALL connectors in the game and I found a "loose" connectorpin on the powersupply adapter cable. So I fixed this little Pin and now voila the game works pretty good.

I noticed a little voltage increases/Drops (0,xxv) Not a big Deal , but I hope we'll get a fix with the new code someday.

At the Moment i'm Happy with this Game and my decision to keep it. The Flipperproblem for me is solved to about 90%.

I have to do a bit Finetuning with the voltage and the Flipper Power (menu) but I think it's makeable to ajust the game Up to 95%.

I Want to thank Barry and the whole AP-team for the Support.

Now it's time to build a airballguard for the right ramp targets and do rest moddings (light, knockerkit) and then enjoy the "Show"

#9606 11 months ago

The 3 seance targets (n,c,e) on the right side lead to airballs with my Setup ( playfield protector, flipperpower).

The flipperpower is good at the moment, cause all shots working. So I will try this airball guard to reduce the airballs from this targets.

Here is my prototype i made Yesterday. Not pretty but functional.

IMG_20191028_061327 (resized).jpg
#9608 11 months ago

I have a question.

I want to build my own knocker kit, cause shipping to germany is extrem expensive

I have an prebuild assembly with options for one of this coils: AE-26-1200 or AE-23-800

Also I need to know with connectors I have to use on the

--> ADD ON BOARD for VIN-2 (48V)
--> ADD ON BOARD DRV-5 (knocker connection) and Coilside.

So I would like to build the wiring harness by myself.

Hope you can help me.

Thank you and best regards.


#9611 10 months ago
Quoted from zahner:

So are you having balls flying off the targets hitting stuff, or is this to protect the targets? Curious to see you invention installed.
Very creative of you.

Due to the playfieldprotector and the slightly higher coil volstage it happens that the ball flying around and hitting stuff. Not all the time, but 2-3 times in a game. That was too much.

I make a picture later. The prototype looks like sh*t now. But better then nothing

#9620 10 months ago

Here is a picture from my First airballguard Prototype

IMG_20191031_204154 (resized).jpgIMG_20191031_204326 (resized).jpg
#9623 10 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

remind me GB...
but here, quite sure this will not last long &amp; break
because the left screw-point is too far from the target (N), letting the plastic to curve &amp; go up, and when too much this should break (let's hope i'm wrong)

Yes but the lexan ist flexible and thin... So it's much Higher over the target then it looks. So the Ball can't Push it Up so hard.

I try another one with Cover Up only (N) and (C) target which Will Go over the ramp entrance.

#9625 10 months ago

Me too

#9650 10 months ago

Open a Ticket at American pinball. I got the same pooblem with my Houdini 1045.

Servo worked for one Game and then vor Burned. Got an replacement and it worked now for more then 250 Games.

it looked Like a Bad batch of servos... Or that a little percentage is Not that good.

But think AP will Help you!

3 weeks later
#9732 9 months ago

Had Last night a League night and we played Houdini. The flipper Power was now a Lot better, but the coils were extrem hot after 30 games. And thex lost alot of power. I installed the blue wpc coils 11-629.

now i will try to Install a new bushing, coilstop, and crank to solve it.

is it possible that someone can make a picture from the EOS in Endposition? I'm Not Happy with Mine.

Also the coil from the Power catapult lost the presicion during longer Games.

Thank you and best regards

IMG-20191017-WA0070 (resized).jpg
3 months later
#10043 6 months ago

I would Like to Test the new Beta Code on our League night on 27.03.2020 - Hope it's possible that some Share the Code with me or may be Josh get the Code ready till then, but with his little time i think it wont bei ready. But hoping the best

Mayve someone can Help me Out and give me the chance to Test the code.

Love this Game

2 weeks later
#10112 5 months ago
Quoted from rosh:

There is beta code for Houdini that has been in test for a couple of months. I had hoped to release it officially last month, but, I have not been able to carve out time to respond to a few issues that were found in the beta. Right now my focus is on getting HW code ready for submission to Mattel for approval.
I'm not sure when I'll get back to Houdini, could be a week or two, could be a month. Overall the issues with the beta are pretty minor, and no doubt this code is a nice improvement from the last release. Since there is going to be a delay before it will be official, and given that the issues raised are relatively minor, anyone who wants to install the beta code is welcome to do so . . .

Amazing Josh thank you so so much.
Hope you and your Family are fine.
Take all the time you need and don't stress your self.
Thank for your Support!

2 months later
#10503 3 months ago

hey guys,

i still have some lacking with the flipper coil power on my houdini. I installed the Powersupply and the Eos kit. So far so good the coil power is good. But sometimes they haven't enough power and the powerloss is noticeable (during multiballs, or when other coils working).

Maybe a tech savvy person can chime in and find a workaround - like a daughter board to stabilize the coil voltage like a Boost Step-up converter or something.
That would be awesome.

I would like to test something like this and put it in the flipper coil curcuit. link » 1200w 20a Dc Konverter Boost Step Up Stromversorgungsmodul 8 60v 12 83v 40 85

But I'm not sure if that's just possible - cause i don't know exactly which coil voltage is applied when idling and which one when the pinball button is pressed.

I hope we can take a step forward together like Rosh with his code update

#10504 3 months ago

Or should this Board fix the high voltage power?

#10508 3 months ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Well rumor is Houdini sold more units than Oktoberfest. Does Oktoberfest have the same flipper issues under load? How about Hot Wheels? If not, then they must have determined what is causing it and know how to solve it? It would be a nice gesture to the early adopters if they would share this information.

yes that would be nice - I got the 3rd Houdini in Europe - and had alot of trouble. But I keep the machine and stick with API cause I want to support little manufactures. I only want to find a final solution for this machine.

#10510 3 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It would be an interesting experiment to bump the coil voltage from 48V to 70V for the flippers but I'd have to really study the power distribution system in detail (the manual is not real clear in this regard). Keep in mind that, like any pinball machine I know of, the voltage applied is always the same (or it should be), it is the ground that gets switched on and off for each coil as it's activated. This is done by the P3-ROC driver boards mounted under the playfield and in theory they wouldn't really need to be modified at all but I don't think you'd want 70V going to the pop-bumpers and vuks though it may help stabilize the catapult during heavy use too. I have been so close to buying a nice digital storage oscilloscope many times to try to diagnose what happens under load but I just can't justify the cost. I should check eBay for used ones. It's a shame because this is really the only chink in the armor for this game but given the relatively low number of games sold (supposedly) and the fact they have moved on to other titles I don't really expect this to ever be addressed by API.

I use a variac for houdini and the new powersupply with eos kit.

Yes I took a look at the manual but not shure how it all works together and which frequency is used. I have no trouble with the catapult under heavy use. Only the flippers became "powerless" from time to time and then they are strong as they should. And yes it happens mostly if the magnet is in use or shortly after.

I want to understand the reason for this pinball behavior and find a solution. There must be a way to fix the cause

#10515 3 months ago
Quoted from rosh:

There are safety consideration if switching to 70V, both for you and the machine. It will certainly make the flipper hold stronger what other impact it has I can't be sure. While the P-roc and driver boards can handle 70V, it does not come without risk, as, shorting 70v to other parts of the electrical system can cause far more significant damage then 48V (I speak from experience, as I ran one of my custom games on 70V).
If you are not running the beta code, you should start with that, as it has some changes around power during multiball and some other changes around the control system.

Thank you for your Input rosh. I'm running theblast Beta Code. And it's better then before No doubt but it's still not complete.

I'm not shure If 70v ist needed. For me it's more about ton get a stable voltage at the coils.

I would test All Things that are possible and can Help us all to find a solution.

#10544 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

So we need more current flow.
The magnets are sucking the game dry.
Higher watrage supply?
I always though the add on was weak at 750w
More like 1500w would be nice.

I have a second 48W 1200watt powersupply Here. If you can Tell me how to run two powersupplys parallel at the same time i can give it a try.

I need only the Instruction how to Connect it.

Or is there a possibility to run the Magnets with an own 'powerline'...

I'm ready

#10546 3 months ago

Then i think i would test a

"DC-DC 10V-60V to 13V-97V 1500W 30A Step-Up Voltage Regulator Power Modul"

It's about 25$ - maybe this placed between the powersupply and the wagoclamp for the Boards could stabilize the 48v?!

#10568 3 months ago

had a game yesterday and run in some trouble with the code. Ball tracking had a problem when the ball was drained and in the through code not reconized it. After 30 seconds ball was reconized and round 1 over... With adding the ball to the shooter lane, the G.I went out. After letting the ball drain and a new ball was served in the shooterlange G.I turned on.

Also the left flipper was weak from time to time - especially when a magnet was in use before.
The right flipper was way better but also noticeable that it was weak from time to time.

#10582 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I dont care too much about load times.
I would like to see refined and finished code for my Houdini though...


No problem with Long bootup but with the coil strength and somensmall Bugs in the code.

Hope Josh and the AP-Team can bring a solution.

#10623 3 months ago

OK never seen this powersupply.... Is it for all voltges?
As a buyer from the First hours i feel a Bit fooled... But If If there is no difference between this and the combibanation of the old one (5v/12v) + 48V ps then ok and all fine.

But i'm Not shure If there is an Impact on the 5/12V old PS which is not stabilized... And If this takes effect during gameplay...

Hope to get more information

#10626 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. Newest incarnation.

No difference between newest and combination of original and add on.
LTG : )

Thanks ltg good to hear then i'm fine and Love the new Look

Now only the weak-flipper-issue has to be solved and then Houdini will be a master piece

#10628 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

As I recall reading over the threads over time.
It was a combination of the household power and power supply.
LTG : )

There are still Problems with Flippers also with the add-on supply - would be cool If an user can Test the old vs new supply and see if the Flipper Power is 100% during the whole gameplay without any issue...

1 week later
#10713 85 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I don't have a storage scope and they are too expensive to justify the purchase just for this. One of my brothers has a Fluke meter with min/max and average capability, I'm going to borrow that sometime and see what's going on with the supply under full load.

bobukcat did you had some time to find out whats going on with the gamepower?

#10719 85 days ago

Have a second Upgrade supply 50V and i would Set Up the Magnets to this powersupply. Your wiring would be interesting bobukcat.

For the ground i would use a new ground line from the Line Filter If that's the better was. So that all 3 supplies (old PS for 5/12V, upgradesupply for Magnets and Upgrade PS1 for the machine) coming from one point - each with an oent Wire.

The only Thing i Need to know ist how to bring the 50v to the right Board and devices (Magnets).

I look forward to your instructions and a few pictures if possible and i Hope rosh can Chime in if needed.

Thank you

#10730 80 days ago

yes my crimpparts are here and on sunday i will try a new second powersupply and post some pictures

#10743 79 days ago

Grab a cheap passiv Car Hifi Subwoofer in a Case. That works great for me and it's easy to Install. And it's about 50 bucks only.

#10746 79 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Did you mount it to the underside?

It's in a Subwoofer in a case and stands under the cabinet in the Floor. I can Post a picture tomorrow.

The Bass ist deep and fits perfect with Houdini. For me it's a Must have

#10753 79 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Apologies for hijacking MigthyGraves post, but here's mine. Both 8" subs. Different sizes tho. You don't need a lot of subwoofer to make a big difference. For me, two 8" woofers are fine for the six pins. Actually, really impressive for the most part. Stern Star Trek Pro is seriously fun w/a sub.[quoted image]

Thats a cool idea - can you explain how it works ? And have you trouble if all games running at the same time?

#10770 77 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Anyone using a passive sub with this machine? Wondering if this little amp can do it on its own. There are some really nice passive subs for cheap.

Yes i have a passive sub and it works perfect.

#10781 73 days ago

Can someone confirm that my wiring is OK? Before i powerUp the game.

Red ist V+ and black ist V- goes to J5 on pd-16 Driver board. The Red wire goes through the interlockswitch.

Only not sure about the j5 (1-2-3 Pin Order).

Thank you and best regards


IMG_20200710_212557 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_212618 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_212634 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_213900 (resized).jpg
#10783 73 days ago

Hey bob thank you. I used the Brown 48v Input i think it's switched so that black is to the outside. Picture 3

So that the Flippers got an own Powersupply

#10784 71 days ago

so a little update:

I Installed the a second power supperply and connected it directly on J5 on the PD-16 Boards for the "Brown Bank" (Flippers, Left sling, catapult) trough the interlock switch. Now everytime i close the interlock switch all coils on this Bank/Channel (Brown) start to fire nonstop while game is booting.
-> Dont know whats wrong with this? - Or should the powersupplys use the same V-

So i disabled the second powersupply and switch back to the regular wiring. So now only the left flippercoil is firing nonstop when the interlockswitch is closed.

I don't know where I can look for to fix this... Maybe someone can chime in and help.

#10786 71 days ago

Ah i'm an Indiot and yes fuse ist blown. Hope i haven't grilled my pd-16 board...

#10787 71 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Ah i'm an Indiot and yes fuse ist blown. Hope i haven't grilled my pd-16 board...

So replaced the fuse and i think the pd-16 is damaged - If I Close the interlock Switch the left Flipper and slingshot coil are constant under 48V.

I ordererd a new Board from a Distributor and i Hope the old one is maybe possible to fix by changing some electric parts.

I could cry - but 100 bucks more or less that's Life ...

#10789 71 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

If just the two are locked on, it might just be the two, mosfets drivers, I believe they are Irl450, which are through hole and easily replaced.
Hopefully repairable and then you’ll have a spare board that will work on American pinball machines and some spooky machines.
Much cheaper board then p3-roc, and I’ve blown one of those . . . As a reminder never a good idea to be plugging things into a board with the game powered on

Thank you rosh - i will give it a try. My Problem was that i don't had the ground from the 48 shared with the other powersupply Like Bob said.
But yes you're right never change things while a machine ist running.

#10791 71 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just had an incredible game on Houdini. 5.2 million tonight.
No errors, no flipper collapse, everything was perfect.
I recently raised my flipper power so that i could barely make the ramp from a cradled position.
I did not change my playfield pitch from 6.25-6.3
No stage rejects.
Flippers drooped 2mm.
Power at the outlet 117v
The game plays amazing with the new beta code.

Sounds awesome - which beta code did you use?

#10795 70 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

When Bob did this, I commented regarding the importance of tying all grounds together. In the custom game community many a game builder has made that costly mistake. Hopefully it is just the two drivers, which can be replaced fairly easily. Certainly worth the few dollars to find out.
Replacement driver boards can be purchased from our website, pinballlife or Multimorphic.

yes - i was to fast and I wasn't paying attention. I hope i can fix it and if not 100 bucks more or less.... annoying but I have learned my lessons

1 week later
#10837 60 days ago

+++++ Second Power Supply +++++

Hey guys, so i could repair my Coil Driver Board - happy with that.

So now I want to take a new run to installing the second power supply. But how to wire up the ground (-48V black wire) from the new powersupply.
The upgraded supply is properly installed (followed the Instruction on the homepage).

I hope you can help me how to wire the cables from the new power supply to the boards. "Bobukcats HowTo" shows how the old ones is properly wired, but i have a second one of these:

Thank you and best regards.


#10839 60 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You'll want to run a black wire between the to -V terminals of the power supplies.

Ok only a black wire between the to -V terminals of the power supplies and a red and black wire from the new power supply to the J6 (input) on the coil driver board?

#10856 58 days ago

Bad news from my PD-16 Coil board. I repaired it and it worked in test mode. But during the game the autofire coil was getting to hot while the transitor was activated all the time. And now the coil is damaged and i have to replace it.

All european distriubutors has long waiting times for spareparts. So is it possible to use a WPC-Coil and solder it correctly? - If yes which coil can i use?

Thank you for your input and help.

cheers - Mighty

#10869 57 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

All coils are standard on Houdini, with almost every coil a 23-800, a pretty common coil. You can just cut off the leads/connector and solder to a new one

rosh Thank you! - Do i need the one with a diode or the one without?

#10873 56 days ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I’m testing a upgrade to give the coils more consistent power during heavy power usage.
So far the results are very good! I’ll be working on a kit and instructions for this simple upgrade very soon.

Sounds to good to be true - Awesome hope it's possible to build it from scratch for us germancustomers

#10874 56 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

NO. Diode, very important to cut it off

Thank you Rosh - ordered a Coil without diode - so hope i got it all ready for the weekend pinball night

#10876 56 days ago
Quoted from Vegas9:

Brenna98 is AP's technical service manager. We are happy to help. Thank you for your continued support, wolftownjeff and happy flipping

Guys you're awesome thank you so much and can't wait for the fix :p

#10888 53 days ago

I recieved my spare PD-16 coil Driver Board from a distributor (ministry of pinball) but the connectors (j9 and j10) for Logic serial Data have only two Pins - so ground is misisng and so i guess its a v1 Board.

Can i use the V1 Board in my Houdini and If yes what have i to modify, cause the serial wires have a 3 pin design.

Hope you can Help me.

Thank you

#10890 52 days ago

Thanks rosh, Hope i find the right Dip Settings in my pictures or in the Manual.

I looked at the AP Houdini Manual.

J9 (in) on Board Revision 2 is

Pin1 Serial+
Pin 2 Serial-
Pin 3 Ground

That's the Same on my destroyed board.

On the Website from multimorpic pd16 coil driver Board Revision 1 (which ist my new Board, i bought)

J9 Input is:

Pin1 Serial+
Pin 2 Serial-

So Not sure If i need the ground... Cause all Others Boards connected with 3 Pins.

i'll also post some pictures, before Installation etc - maybe its possible that one of you can Check If its all rightt - so that i don't kill a Seconds Board again...

#10892 52 days ago

Here is how i would connect it:

Only Grey and purple from the wire. But is the blue cable (Ground) really not needed?

PD-16 (resized).JPG
#10924 50 days ago

New replacement coils are soldered

so are there any Updates for the new AP Houdini coil Power fix?
IMG_20200802_132219 (resized).jpg

#10948 50 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

[quoted image]

looks amazing. I used a dark red, but also like the blue

#10992 46 days ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I’m testing a upgrade to give the coils more consistent power during heavy power usage.
So far the results are very good! I’ll be working on a kit and instructions for this simple upgrade very soon.

Are there any updates or more information for this case you can share with us

#11022 43 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

WOZ has come and gone twice in my house. I figured I' was missing something, so I got it a second time. It's great for a little while, but was not a keeper for me. Super deep ruleset, tons to do - 2 mini playfields! I just could not get into it. Houdini remains...

Same here - WOZ is stunning to look, but the gameplay is not my cup of tee. So for me Houdini over WOZ, cause the gameplay is streigth forward!

#11048 42 days ago
Quoted from Daditude:

48v power supply

Not the Key... It's better but the Problem still exist. I'm in the same boat also a 60v ps made NO difference.

#11056 42 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Reporting back for duty....
3. Complaints:
- Sound seems to be a bit muffled. Not sure I can adjust or if installing a better sub would help.
- I have updated power supply, but like others, the flippers don't seem "snappy" like Stern games. My Willy Wonka also has relatively weak flippers, but not as bad as Houdini
Overall, I'm very pleased and this pin will be staying a long time. I'm leaving room for one more pin.....Jersey Jack...
[quoted image]

for 3.1 --> Add a cheap passiv subwoofer, adjust the sound from the lepai amp and will blown away
for 3.2 --> Fix is on the way - and we all get finger crossed that it will be the solution.

1 week later
#11103 35 days ago

Can someone make me a picture from the Other Side of the "coil improvement fix" Board? I want to build it myself . Thank you

#11119 34 days ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I have tested it and know it works.
I just wanted to make sure the instructions are straight forward and also let the folks that have the first kits provide their testimony for the performance improvement.
Feel free to order whenever.

brenna98 is it only the Input-/output connector and the Cap? Or is there also Others parts i need ?

Btw: Thanks for your Help and great Support !

#11191 32 days ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I just bought a passive sub and was wondering can you just remove the amp to get at the terminals on the amp or do I need to remove the lcd to get at them.

I think you need to disamble the LCD. But it's easy going.
Hope the picture helps a bit

pasted_image (resized).png

3 weeks later
#11460 8 days ago

So installed my DIY Coil inprovement upgrade and it works pretty good but now i have trouble with the ball tracking on houdini.

I'm on 19.12.23B - and have following issue.

When i shoot the Trunk shot and the lower catapult brings the ball to the trunk it falls through the diverter to the upper catapult. In this moment when the ball is ready to get shoot up the right habitrail from the upper catapult. The ball is not properly tracked. So after a few seconds the ball search starts and the ball got shooting by the upper catapult. When the ball goes down the right habitrail and rolls over a switch the game works. But when the ball drains the game hangs up (freeze) while music is playin in loop at the "view for the round points".

So i tested all switches and in Testmode they work also when the got activated by a ball.

Also i noticed "rattling sounds" when i pressed the flipper buttons and the flipper is in up position. It sound like a small sewing machine. You only hear it when you play without glass and music volume at 3. Don't know what it comes from

Hope you can help me guys.

Thank you.

#11462 8 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Try reinstalling the code?

Not yet - is there a new Beta around? Or is the 19.12.23B the way to go?

#11465 8 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Just curious (and not that it makes any difference) you have the EOS switches installed?
Try taking the DIY coil mod out and see if it goes away.

Yes EOS Kit installed and i will disamble my diy cool improvement kit and try it.

#11467 8 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

On your capacitor kit you made, did you use the same size capacitor (uF, not dimensions) and voltage rating as the AP kit? Too large of a uF cap might cause the power supply some grief since it is a switching supply (it can cause issues with the level control loop stability...sorry for the techie talk) and obliviously too low of a voltage rating is a big 'no-no' too.
I recall looking for the max capacitive load the Meanwell power supply could support, but I didn't see it. Saw it for the smaller Meanwell version, but not for the one used in Houdini.

I bought these cap :

Vishay 56, THT Alu Kondensator, Elko 10000μF ±20%, 63Vdc, Ø 35mm, –40 → +85 °C

cause the one AP uses i couldn't find.

#11469 7 days ago

I would buy a Houdini coil improvement kit but shipping to germany is 50$ and a way to high for a 30$ product...

I will do some test later and give feedback.

#11470 7 days ago

Ok looks like it was a problem with the DIY Coil upgrade. So I hope i have a chance to buy it in europe. Maybe AP can help here.
At the moment:

Ball tracking issue --> solved
Flipper rattling when in up position --> still exist --> will rebuild the assembly
Mushi flippers (weak, strong) --> still exist --> still waiting to buy the AP Coil improvement kit here in germany or a cheaper shipping solution.

#11472 7 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I really doubt the coil improvement kit caused your ball tracking issue unless you somehow managed to disable come coils and / or switches in the process. I had very significant ball tracking issues on that beta code and quit using it after sending multiple logs and bug reports to Josh from it. I had to re-install it multiple times because of really odd behavior like resetting as soon as you started the clear balls utility, the right lock release absolutely not holding down no matter what it was set to, etc. Thankfully the test code has been really good so far with regards to ball tracking.

Yeah you might bei right, but i don't know why ist runs now pretty stable. But i Hope there ist Chance to get the ap coil improvement kit. And then will See. Also Hope the new code will BE great. After a Long Time not playing Houdini i was hooked in the First Seconds when started a Game

#11478 7 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

Agree, not sure how a capacitor upgrade, even if not ours, would impact ball tracking.
If you bought your game through our distributor, you may want to contact them to see if the part can be shipped to them the next next time they are getting something from us, which can obviously reduce shipping cost.

As far the flipper noise, check if you have 'flipper hold boost' enabled, if so, turn that off and see if that goes away.

As a reminder, I am looking for a few testers for a new test version of the code, see my post here . . .

So made some more test. Also without the improvement kit the pin has still ball tracking issues. It's also repeatable... and starts with locking a ball and this time it goes in the underground and there it is not not properly tracked. The ball search brings the ball back and if it drains i got a loop of the "ball end sound" and the "points for this ball" get shown again and again....

So the rattle is not there if I disable 'flipper hold boost'.

rosh I will contact you for the new beta code and I hope I can get involved and help.

Thank you guys!

#11480 7 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Being a DIY Bob made, I thought Bob might have been accidently installed the cap backwards, wrong uF or voltage (loading down the supply). But being non-polarized and the correct values, that wasn't the issue.

It's something with the Code, cause it Happens after shots in a "special order". It happen without ans with the kit.

#11482 6 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm not sure what his end-result mod turned out to be but I assure you mine does use big electrolytic caps and if you install those backwards very bad things WILL happen in pretty short order.

Thats right - i learned it the hard way with the secoand power supply and a damaged PD-16 Coil board.

But i tested the cap with a Standalone power supply and measured it with a dmm. I would ever go this way before installing something unknown to a pinball machine.

#11488 3 days ago

I also became a beta tester now - thank you so much rosh.

So my problem with ball tracking is gone. And the game plays stable at the moment. Perfect!

I still have issue with the flipper power without the power coil performace kit. Also with mine DIY-Self kit. The flipperpower is not conconstant. I ordered the AP power performance kit and hope that works better. Maybe it's a problem with the "cheap chinese no name powersupply" the distributor send out for AP as the first fix....

Maybe someone as still issues with cap kit and the powesupply, then it would nice to know which power supply you have.

I have a 60V Powersupply that i will test, with reduced voltage to 58V so that the 63V cap will not get damaged.

#11495 2 days ago

But how constant ist the Power. My best example iis when i Shot the left Orbit from the right Flipper in a row - it's Like :

1. Shot: super strong and clean around the Orbit
2. Shot: strong but a Bit slower around the orbit
3. Shot: mushy Feeling and ball goes only half way the Orbit and Rolls slowly Back or around the Orbit.

So i Hope you hot a Feeling for what i mean.

I installed the wpc (Blues) coils in my Houdini - maybe that's a problem when i use a 10000uf cap.

Maybe it's possible for the AP Team or some which electonic skills to calculate which Cap should be used for the wpc Blue coils. Or maybe it's better to use more then one Cap?

Also i need to know wwhich type of coils AP uses for the Flippers ( so which is the wpc equivalent) - i want to Go Back to the Stock ones to test my cap.

Thank you guys

#11501 1 day ago

I'm thinking back and forth If it's possible or needed to Install more then one Cap in houdini?

Like this:

I have Seen this in Other proc related Games Like R&m, tna and some homebrew games.

Maybe more Caps provide snappy flippers in every Situation?

Hope someone with more know how and electric skills can chime in....

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