(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

33 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #145 Houdini Pinball initial flyer Posted by HighProtein (3 years ago)

Post #184 Initial reveal at TPF Posted by SilverballNut (3 years ago)

Post #190 Introductory Price of Houdini Posted by 1iblind (3 years ago)

Post #198 Initial Pictures of Machine Posted by lllvjr (3 years ago)

Post #229 Playfield Close-Up Pics Posted by bigd1979 (3 years ago)

Post #284 Machine feature details Posted by rosh (3 years ago)

Post #312 More feature details Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #385 Double switch lane picture Posted by pinballrockstar (2 years ago)

Post #420 Pinball show appearance schedule for Houdini Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #434 Houdini pics from Allentown show Posted by PinballSTAR (2 years ago)

Post #533 Official Houdini Flyer with features listed Posted by Join_The_Cirqus (2 years ago)

Post #535 Ball Counter graphic for game Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #609 More mode and feature details from programmer Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #639 More game system details from programmer Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #978 Photos of the updated game for expo Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #1000 Photos of the cabinet interior side art Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #1287 Josh Kugler Interview Posted by konjurer (2 years ago)

Post #1357 Houdini Gameplay video Posted by rosh (2 years ago)

Post #2290 Key posted, but no summary given Posted by BarryJ (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#5294 1 year ago

Houdini is in the house! Well, actually the garage for now. Glad to have joined the club! Absolutely a stunning game.

20180811_184133 (resized).jpg
#5303 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamaster10:

Enjoy
Pincades
Jesse T

Kudo's to Jessie at Pincades. Blades, MagicGlass, and a shaker - all at a decent price!

Made it in the basement w/o a scratch - now time to back up to the OP a start to read up on all amazing things this game has to offer

#5317 1 year ago
Quoted from davijc02:

Enjoy man! If you bought one used at the show I think I played enough games on it Friday to get it good and broken on for you!

Hah, so you're the one that must have used up all the points in the machine cause we are not getting any tonight!

Got the one w/the Magic Glass - I would have never thought it made such a visible difference. Prior, I would have said "Frivolous expense." Sitting next to our JD...absolutely a noticeable difference. Zero doubt at about it. When first I saw it at the show, I literally reach down thinking "There's no glass here.", only to touch glass. Not kidding - it's that good. I was just going to nab the NIB w/standard glass and blades, but for the money JT quoted...yeah, no brainer. Made a great game that much better.

#5408 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

...Our Engineering Department has reached out to Cliffy to make a new scoop protector that would cover the excessive scoop wear....

I'd likely install before anywear starts. I looked on Cliffy's site but didn't see anything specific for Houdini. Is this something I should get thru AP or directly via Cliffy's when available?

#5411 1 year ago

Thanks guys, I did manage to find his w/a google search. They are located on the 'Work in Progress" page.

Here's a link if anyone's interested: http://www.passionforpinball.com/wip.htm

#5413 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Put Mylar down for now while you wait. Works wonders.

I may do that, as long as it's removable w/o damage. I am keeping a close eye on it, and have the coil adjusted low. Pristine so far but I want it to stay that way.

Anyone know how difficult it is to install on Houdini?

#5416 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Wax the area first, and it will come right up when you want to remove it.

Good point! I would have forgot! Already e-mailed Cliffy about a set.

#5417 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Have to remove the plastic and post by the scoop , clean the area real well, peel of the adhsieve strip,hook under the inside of the scoop and press down ... 20 minutes for lifetime of protection...
Great product for a great game

Is that for the mylar, not the Cliffy?

#5426 1 year ago
Quoted from Videogod:

Is anyone who has installed the Cliffy's planning on doing an install guide? ..."

I'm ordering a set and will try to snap some pics, but someone might beat me to it first given his backload.

#5440 1 year ago

Hey Rosh/Josh,

The ouija board got out of whack w/respect to the letter it was on. See pic. Running the latest code.

Keep up the good work!

houdini_scoring (resized).jpg
#5441 1 year ago

Hey AP: Here's a suggestion...make the shooter tip a different color than black. Hard to see how far it's pulled back, it blends into the background - it makes it hard for the skill shot...

#5446 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Houdini is in the house!
After a couple recommended adjustments:
Tied back wire under planchet
Set pitch to 6.4 degrees (averaged out), set horizontal pitch to zero across the playfield.
Closed the right outland to the narrowest setting.
Set at 3 balls per game.
Increased all ball savers to the max (can shorten later).
Game plays perfect!
My wife got 1.3 million on her second game (she is an excellent player). pinballgoddess
The game is NOT TOO HARD AT ALL!
The game is NOT TOO HARD AT ALL!
The game is NOT TOO HARD AT ALL!
Maybe people will see this and reconsider?
The shots are tight but challenging and fun!
Trunk eject is not working 100% and ball does hang on the captive ball half the time....
But we knew about that, I'll see if it's worth sorting out.
Game is too fun to be torn apart for experimentation, I cant get my wife off it. She's addicted lol.
More later, it's my turn to play!
[quoted image]

1.3M on the 2nd game, dang!! I was proud that I got 480K!

The narrow ramps aren't bad at all, not sure why people complain. Can't say their easy, but not hard. I bought for a challenge. Even when you miss, you just don't hit a post, you hit a light a letter as part of the 'SEANCE', so there is still a reward. One thing it does need is a subwoofer tho. It would just take it over then top. Thought I saw somewhere on this thread (or another) about adding a sub.

Like you, set my trunk shot to 26, but my pitch is closer to 6.8 (didn't adjust it), side to side is level. Honestly, it makes it every time, all tho I do see it skewing slightly to the left.

Artwork and theme is stunning. Reminds me of TOM, and even a little bit TOTAN sometimes w/the music. Plus Rosh's very active support is a plus.

#5450 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Anyone else get to a wizard mode yet? Mine didn't end well.

Wizard mode? What is this strange thing you speak of?

#5530 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Installed cliffy's tonight.
Wasn't too bad at all.
You dont have to remove a lot of stuff just loosen to get it out of the way.
Remove upper right edge plastic.
Remove nuts and screws from planchet plastic. Push aside.
Remove screws from metal lane guides. Remove 2 nuts from underneath.
Remove scoop.
Raise playfield remove 3 screws holding scoop VUK tie it up or let it hang. Or remove this first before starting everything...
Remove 4 of the wooden side rail screws.
I had to loosen the autolaunch 4 screws to access the first screw for the wooden siderail.
You can finagle the scoop protector into the hole now by lifting up on the metal lane guide and lifting up on the wooden siderail.
Slipping the scoop cliffy under the wooden siderail slightly really helped to get it in
I put a fender washer under the wooden rail to hold it up temporarily while working the metal guide.
After installing the scoop cliffy, install the right side of the shooter lane cliffy while the siderail is loose.
Reassemble everything working from the top.
Replace the siderail screws last.
This way you can get the shooter lane protector where you want it.
Installation of the left shooter lane protector is super easy.
Remove the 2 screws in the apron from the front playfield hangers.
You have to remove the 3 screws for the inner wooden siderail to make it easier to adjust.
Remove 2 of the 3 machine screws from the trough.
Install and adjust as neccesary.
That's it . It took me about 35 mins total and I took my time.
Next one will take 15 mins.

Thanks for details...I ordered some but Clffy said it might be awhile since he's got a pretty good backlog. When I install, I'll shoot pics for everyone.

I ordered the full set since I wasn't sure what really was needed besides the scoop and side rail.

#5550 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This is correct the lower speaker jacks that are red and black on the mounting plate side of the unit are for the subwoofer the upper speaker Jacks are for your speakers the RCA jacks are for your aux inputs.
It's hard to see since the labeling is right near the wall of the cabinet but they are labeled sub.

Resurrecting a slightly old post about subwoofers. I printed the amp manual, but one thing that's not clear...I assume the sub needs to be powered, not just a speaker?

#5553 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

On my magic glass, which side is the top?
My game arrived with the stamped logo in the upper left corner. The text is upside down and reversed. There was a proudly made in the USA sticker in the upper right corner.
I'm thinking my glass was installed upside down at the factory.
[quoted image]
I dont want to scratch the $300 coating if I can avoid it.

For what it's worth - mines on the upper right, but it was installed by a distributor.

Off topic reply, but just a FYI. Don't clean with ammonia based products!

#5566 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I flipped my glass over and the logo is on the lower left now.
It looks correct.

But it sounds like the logo is on the topside, no? I think we need some input from AP rather than speculation.

#5571 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

When the logo is on the top side it is backwards and unreadable
When it is underneath it reads correctly.
With the logo in the lower left position it reads correctly and it is on the bottom of the glass.
I can only surmise that that is the correct position for the logo and also surmise that at that point the coating is on the bottom of the glass.
But it's only a guess without further input from API.
I can tell you one thing though, when cleaning the glass with sparkle glass cleaner, one side feels more like glass the other side is more frictiony or sticky like maybe it's coated.
This is compared to my other play field glasses.
So I put what appeared to be the coated side underneath at the bottom of the glass to protect it I hope this is correct.

Here's mine. Looked on the AP site, no info - even about what cleaner to use. Ever look for info on the other invisible glass vendors?

20180826_AP_magic_glass (resized).jpg
#5584 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Is it wrong I hate that printing on the glass?
How visible is it during game play.

Mine's currently up by the backglass. You don't even see it because a person tends to focus on the playfield which is a lot lower and you are looking at it from a shallow angle. I circled it below in red from a players perspective. I think people wouldn't even see it unless I circled it

Capture (resized).PNG

#5585 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

...So I put what appeared to be the coated side underneath at the bottom of the glass to protect it I hope this is correct.

You bring up a interesting point. I wonder if an airball could damage the coating? If it's really just on one side, maybe the top is the best bet?

#5605 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That's exactly where I got a chip.
Fortunately its behind the milk can and it's barely noticable.
I'll probably order a sticker to cover it.
Mod couple are you reading this?
Here's a mod that will sell well.
Scratch covering stickers to add to the artwork !

Wonder how it's installed at the factory since I was told they are installed prior to PF?

You guys have got me worried now. One big reason to by a new machine is to have a pristine one for a change, sort of like a new car. You keep it clean, don't have to worry about all the kludges people installed over the years or decades. I guess I won't be 'opening the hood' for awhile.

#5610 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like the idea but dont need them in my lighted gameroom.
A sticker would work or a cutout piece from a fresh artblade.
If some one wanted to make repair stickers, I would purchase the art blades to use as samples for the project.
I'm confident that as sales of Houdini, progress many people would want something to cover the damage.
I will order a new set anyway to fix it later on as it gets really bad.

You probably already know this - keep in mind if you just overlay a piece on the damaged material it will protrude out a little and likely could suffer the same problem. You almost need to cut out an inlay to match up. I know...a royal PIA.

I wonder if to minimize the damage and cosmetically make it look better (if it gets to bug you), you could put some thin, color tape over it for now? Not electrical, since that tends to leave adhesive if on for awhile...but I think you get where I was going?

Boy, another total 1/8" clearance and this wouldn't be an issue...

#5612 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I will most likely Inlay the damaged area from a new set.
But not before I get a copy made from a more durable material.
It's not too bad to make a template and use it to cut both pieces.

Do the vinyl tile trick...align the new on top of the old and secure, cut both at once, remove old...and the new will fit exactly!

#5665 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Houdini owners with Interior Art (Blades), it is possible to use the protectors and lift the playfield without damaging the Interior Art...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Any chance you know the vendor? I'd like to order the exact ones. Thanks.

#5669 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:Pinballlife.com sells them.
I have them they work perfectly as barryj has shown.
If too tight on one side, push the playfield over to the other side a bit.
And if necessary loosen and adjust playfield hangers to get a better fit.
I should have examined the issue more thoroughly before damaging my art.
My playfield was rubbing on the left side and a metal flap protruded slightly.
All of it is fixed now, I ordered a new piece.

The "Pinball Universe" logo should have been a clue for me, if I had a functioning brain.

#5691 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I just saw for the first time the stay puffed marshmallow man in the magic hat !
PURE GENIOUS !
I love this game !

We could start a thread just on all the weird stuff thats pulled outta the hat! I won't give away others that I've seen, but AP pokes fun at other games.

#5701 1 year ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

I wonder if a buck boost converter...

I suspect not many know the meaning of 'buck-boost'...do you design power supplies?

#5725 1 year ago
Quoted from abelelectronics:

Houdini playfield seconds available in limited quantities at the Clevend Pinball show. $200 each or $250 for one signed by Joe Balcer. PM for any interest.

How many do you think you will have at the show?

#5752 1 year ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

No I don't but I work with on board converters in automotive electronics that often have them to the stabilize the variable voltages that naturally occur in the vehicle environment....

Thanks, just was curious. I don't design power supplies either, but I do design transmitters and work with the power supply guys closely, so it's something I have to design around. Your 'buck-boost' comment just caught my attention!

#5772 1 year ago

Thanks for the 'heads up' on the new manual, didn't know it was out. Wow, it's quite an improvement!! Kudo's AP!

#5818 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My game throws right if the voltage goes up.
When the power goes back down its fine.
URBEST Wall Flat US Plug AC 80-300V Voltage Panel Power Line Volt Test Monitor Gauge Meter AC 110V 220V Digital LCD Voltmeter for Household Plug into amazon.com link »
With this I can see what's going on.

I have a Kill-A-Watt that along w/voltage, also indicates watts/VA. Didn't buy it for Houdini, bought it for other reasons. You can buy at about any big box store.

Capture (resized).PNG
#5826 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Why is it that other games don’t have this weirdness? Can the power supply just be replaced/upgraded?

While the supply to the solenoid is unregulated, I assume it is aggravated by the distance the ball is thrown along w/the height of the trunk opening.

#5860 1 year ago

When the game is over and that stats for your game pops up...is there a way to keep the stat screen displayed longer?

#5910 1 year ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Is this an accurate way to measure incoming power? as opposed to plugging meter into wall and game cord into it? Or plugging surge protector into wall and then adding meter to it and then plugging in game cord? If cabinet power supply works, that would be a good spot to use.

I use a z-wave energy monitor, part of my Smarthings smarthome. The energy monitor is made by Aeon, around $20 if you can find a discontinued model. Here's a SnipIt, but of the entire house (in watts).

Home Depot has one ($35), but I have no experience w/it. Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elexa-Dome-Z-Wave-On-Off-Plug-In-Switch-with-Energy-Monitoring-Z-Wave-Range-Extender-DMOF1/300499964?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CVF%7CD27E%7C27-2_WIRING_DEVICES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000033102358%7c58700003867202208%7c92700031090651267&gclid=CjwKCAjw2_LcBRBYEiwA_XVBU2qj2FxsB9JP5qifBfe-5PyYlWXyvGlhZtgJEd9VkLXG8FfoNRF9exoCC7gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM6L6aHnvd0CFYfawAodZrYBzg

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#6012 1 year ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

Hay,Fellow Magicians,A while ago I read a post from a Pinsider who stated that to get a "Milkcan"shot,he first shot a good left orbit,and the ball would bounce off his right flipper straight into the Milkcan!! I've tried this on my Pin and when I get the right orbit shot nailed,it bounced directly to the "S"and fires back down the middle!!I made sure my table was level on all sides!! Anybody else get this???? Thanks!!

Hi Hawk,

The milkcan shot is doable. I can occasionally hit it twice in a row...haven't done 3 in a row (yet). Pitch is about 6.3, and I think the right flipper coil is either factory default or one bump up. But I try to catch the ball on the flipper, then shoot it right at the end of the flipper.

#6036 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Heck no. I highly doubt they cranked through close to a Thousand of these in only a few months very doubtful. 469 total would be very possible and inline with units accounted for at this point.

Ditto Yelo. Likely started at 1000

#6043 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

broken wireform gate during multiball today. Gate at end of shooter lane just above right flipper. Only 47 games on machine.....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I actually had the same problem...just play 'as is'. You'll likely get a couple of balls that return in the shooter lane as a bonus!

Distributer sent me a few new ones and no issues since.

#6048 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamaster10:

they (your dist.) should send you a few.
if not I have them and can send a few to you LOL
Pincades
JT

Kudos to Jesse!

#6097 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

...added a felt dot (which is removable).
Here is the video:

Mike how thick is the felt dot? While I'm at it...what diameter?

#6107 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How have you guys gone in installing the carbon fiber cliffy protector for the upper catapult? What is the best practice for the getting that sucker in its place? It seems a bit intimidating to install that one! Thanks for any info!

I'm interested in this too. Ordered the Cliffy's but they haven't showed up yet. And looking at some pictures, I'm trying to figure out how a ball would damage some of those areas (like the lower and upper catapult). I'm probably wrong - but part of me says this more cosmetic than anything. No problem if I'm mistaken, just don't want to install if not needed. One thing I need to do is actually watch a ball when it's headed in those two areas and see how it lands.

#6110 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:...I moved the coil setting to 6 and just watched as the ball hit the right guide and bounced to the drain or left flipper. Your dot location could be different...

Thanks! That makes a lot of sense...just see where the ball hits it and put the dot there. I got my VUK turned down right now to help prevent any damage until I put a Cliffy on it, it just barely kicks it out now and is very gentle. I think I even have some of those felt protectors from HD or Wallymart.

No need for apologies!

#6138 1 year ago

BarryJ,

The power supply upgrade: Will this also address the lower catapult inconsistencies related to line voltage?

#6139 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Haha! Exactly the thought I had...Magic Glass credit!

I already posted this, but I will say it again. The glass is really amazing...I literally reached down thinking a show unit didn't have the glass installed. Whoops...there's glass there?! No kidding, I thought I was going to touch the PF - it's that good.

#6191 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Got 7 letters tonight, but game rebooted before I could start master mode. Then got 7 again, and played the master magi mode. A wild multiball with reversed and inverted flippers.I got what looked like a 20 million or 20,000 jackpot ...

Ok, now you're just making stuff up!

(Good for you!)

#6192 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm not sure faulty is the correct term here.
It's more of a performance mod or an upgrade.
My game functions without it.
The existing power supply functions, it's not defective.
Not everyone needs this upgrade.
I however would like increased performance in a couple area's.
You understand mod's right?
Do you give away mod's for free?
For a person who dislikes the game and unloaded it, why do you follow this thread?
You seem like a decent guy, but you're coming off so negative it seems.

...and a $150 credit.

#6195 1 year ago

Ordered! I've been pretty lucky with my line voltage, but I'd rather have a regulated supply anyday. I can't recall when the truck shot missed. But if I can do a better job of centering it up (high to low) - I'm all for it. Would rather have a clean shot to minimize any wear. Sort of like a Cliffy, but a power supply instead.

Added 18 months ago:

oops..trunk, not truck!

#6196 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Yes it will address all low voltage problems.

Thanks Barry,

I should have asked about the EOS mod for the flippers too, sorry about that... Still needed?

#6217 1 year ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I have problems with the voltage. (See posts before)
So I'll need a fix. Shipping is expensive from US. And i bought the houdini at an European Distributor. So i will contact him. But if there is no solution like all Distributors in Europe get powersupplys from AP and send Them to the customers (what might be possible) or any other Chance to get one.
i'll have to find a solution for myself.
And so i have 2 options buy a variac or a powersupply both are about 145€ here in Europe.
So our european law say that i have 6 month time to mark a problem and the Distributor have 2-3 trys to fix a problem. AS a customer the Distributor has to find a solution for me.
And then the distri has to find a solution with the producer (about costs and stuff)

Do this (and someone basically posted this): See if they can simply send you the wiring/connector harness in a small envelope (it's not big) from the US. Buy the power supply (Meanwell RSP-750-48) from Amazon EU or another third party. The wires simply attach to the power supply w/terminals. Easy peasy and you're good to go. At some point, it's just a matter of making things easier rather than going thru a distributor that might take awhile. I would verify w/AP that this is an exception and wouldn't void the warranty. Just my 2 cents tho.

#6218 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

...I was really thinking this was gonna be a s@*t storm!!!
THANK YOU!

Tisk, tisk, tisk...oh thee of little faith. Plenty of Houdini supporters here (and a couple of whiners). It was a fair deal w/the credit.

#6254 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

The scoop protector I received last week was already trimmed on the right to fit snug against wooden siderail. No need to lift side rail now for this installation. Yay!
[quoted image]

That's good news...haven't gotten mine yet.

#6260 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

The scoop protector I received last week was already trimmed on the right to fit snug against wooden siderail. No need to lift side rail now for this installation. Yay!
[quoted image]

Mine is on the way!

#6313 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Joe and Jesus?

Josh and Jpop? Say it ain't so!

#6342 1 year ago

Cliffy's in the house! And the blade protectors. Next up, the new regulated power supply. Might be a productive weekend!

#6345 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just got my power supply upgrade. I'll try to install it tomorrow night.
My power tonight is 116.5v.
This will be a literal game changer
It couldn't have arrived at a better time !

Of course we are going to want a complete review, with pics.

#6378 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

I don't know about Inv Glass, but Magic Glass is amazing. I got it as part of a package deal w/my Houdini, along with art blades and a shaker. The difference is absolutely apparent, not one of those 'judgemental' things. But if I didn't have any mods, I'd also go for a shaker or side art too. To each his own, I guess. Plus you can always stick it on another pin if you want.

I think I've said this twice before in this thread but I'll repeat again - we bought a demo game. Spouse was playing at the Indiana Expo, I literally reached down to touch the PF, thinking "they don't have glass installed", only to discover it was Magic Glass. No kidding, it's that good.

#6380 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

All of my games (I guess except twilight Zone) now have this type of glass. I have 2 JJP games with Invisiglass and 2 WPC games with the Stern glass. The Invisiglass is noticeably better, which is why I asked. I do not have any PDI Roman glass. But it is pretty great to have no glare from the playfield lights.

Just guessing, but I assume most vendors just buy the coating, it's not something they make in house. Granted, there could be multiple vendors tho that would account for the differences. Absolutely no qualms about Magic Glass, in my limited experience. Heck, if you don't see it, it must be good!

#6407 1 year ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

I plan on ordering the upgrade power supply, but I have been working on another issue I am hoping some folks can chime in on:
Direct shots to the stage usually bounce out. Some ricochet shots from the pops to the stage bounce out (not often, but sometimes).
I have adjusted the flipper strength down to where it feels good and can make all the shots. Same result for stage shots.
I go under the assumption that most direct shots to the stage should NOT bounce out.
I was going to try some deadening foam strips on the sides and back of the stage. My thought was that it will absorb some of the energy of the ball, perhaps enough to keep it in the stage.
Any thoughts on how I can make this shot more reliable?
Thanks.

I've seen this discussed prior. I think it was mentioned the Stage Alley is what was intended to actually send it to the Stage. I also try to ricochet off the ESCAPE letters which tends to get it at the proper angle to stay in the stage.

#6409 1 year ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Just installed the new power supply. Went in easily even with these strange looking “wood” screws. No biggie, just surprised when I opened the small envelope.
[quoted image]

Mine had the same 'wood' screws. Anyone know the correct size of wood screw that should be in there?

#6439 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

They sent out regular #8 by 1/2" playfield hex screws with mine.

So did you need wood screws?

#6441 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

playfield screws are wood screws - but I think with some of the packs they sent out self-drilling screws (mine were)

Off to the hardware store I go!

#6472 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

... Using purple Super Bands on flippers...

How's those working out? I've wondered what the flipper 'rubber' actually was given the purple color. Can you even get rubber in purple? On a related note, I was thinking of swapping out some of the black rubber for purple Titan's.

#6477 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I think the originals are Perfect Play brand...

So do you think those are those rubber or silicone, etc?

#6486 1 year ago

I think we need a roller over switch here for some points. Much harder to do than the official milkcan shot.

20181014_234110 (resized).jpg
#6490 1 year ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

After watching a magician recreate Houdini's upside down straightjacket escape, it occurs to me that when we cross our arms to work inverted flippers, we are mimicking Houdini's inverted arms-across-chest position in the escape. I thought this was just a cheat move. But Josh and Joe must have had this in mind, those wily geniuses.
[quoted image]

I watched some of Houdini on Netflix (2 episode series). It was really interesting to see the a lot of tidbits that were incorporated into the game, including some of the background music. Flick is very entertaining so far.

#6518 1 year ago

oops...nevermind

(Thought a new version of the manual came out, my bad) Deleted the post.

#6539 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

You probably just have good power. We've never had a problem although the flippers can feel mushy if there's a lot going on in a seance multiball. We're going to get the power supply to smooth that out.

I got the power supply but haven't installed it yet. Even w/o it, the shots are always 'spot on'...right in the center of the trunk. Once I do open it up, I'll install the Cliffy's and a white shooter rod rubber (can't see the black one very well). I'll likely add some wires for a subwoofer too...the bass is lacking in the game. There was some discussion of adding a sub, but not sure if anyone actually did it yet.

#6625 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

We were selling it at expo. I believe the price is $235.00 Comes with mounting hardware and external 12V power supply. We should have it on our web site today.
[quoted image]

Barry,

Is the topper switched on when the pin is turned on?

#6715 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

It was an encrypted mess... You need an enigma machine to figure it out.

Got it covered: http://enigma.louisedade.co.uk/enigma.html

Now hand over the codes...

#6721 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I do think the chimping penalty is too easy to incur particularly when you have either or both Trunk / Seance MB going too. It's still a blast and I always choose the inverted and reversed option.

Chimping...is that when the software thinks you are cheating by using both flippers at once?

#6724 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Ya, chimping is not fare!
I get it sometimes when im just reacting to balls.

I have the same problem. I constantly try to fire the flippers independently when there isn't even a ball there just to try to reset the 'watchdog'. Haven't figured out if it helps. Not sure what Rosh is checking to determine if someone is trying to cheat besides both flippers being used at once. Number of times total, per sec, etc.?

Never had a reduced jackpot, but been warned plenty tho.

#6737 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

92 years ago the Master died on Halloween.
Happy Seance day! Take a moment today and lets play a game and bring him back from beyond.
[quoted image]

Wonder if there's any 'easter eggs' in the game that show up today.....?

#6746 1 year ago

A little tidbit of info since it's Oct 31, the day of Houdini's death...

Magic points: 52 His age of passing

Magic points: 1926 The year of his death.

#6775 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes this once In awile.
Flutters are sometimes due to the EOS switch adjustment not close enough to the end of travel.
I set mine with an ohmmeter to the last 1/8" of flipper travel. So no fluttering here. If the flipper is even slightly deflected it stays up.
Complete drops in spite of EOS are different. It's like a power fail or possibly a bad cabinet switch.
Can also be switching issues internally, where power is interrupted when another device comes online briefly.
I like what LTG said about maybe a bad switch that's losing its internal connection to the wire from corroded pads or something loose.
I'll take a look and maybe swap switches to see if it goes to the other side or fixes it.
Still I want to add 20v in series to the flippers to get them up to WMS standard strengths.

Can't say I have this issue w/ or w/o the new power supply. If I thought I did, I'd likely stick a scope across the coil leads and see if I could catch a glimpse of anything unusual with the voltage. Ideally you use a clamp on current probe meant for a scope too. Hantek makes one for $50 that I have and is rather slick and surprising accurate (I compared it to our high end Tek current probes at work).

#6779 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I agree with LTG, loose wire or cold joint at cab button or elsewhere. Loose or defective switch.
Losing power due to bad connection is the most likely culprit.

Yep, I agree. Easier to just touch up or inspect the solder joints and check the switch...and take it for a test drive. My earlier post was my engineering background kicking in rather than checking the obvious.

#6780 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

We will have a rubber and a flipper rebuild kit shortly.

Barry,

Are the 'rubber' rings really rubber or are some synthetic?

#6803 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

...The condition is not continual. It happens once in awhile when everything is firing full speed, 5 ball MB. Flippers being bashed like crazy...

Maybe a long shot, but don't forget the coin door switch too. Are you nudging a lot more during multiball?

#6811 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I thought about that but for me it's really the right flipper only, it seems to just shut off once in awhile for just a second. But only when certain things are going on in the game. It might be vibration related I'll have to continue looking for the source.

Good point. The mystery continues. lol

#6850 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

...https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mothers-california-gold-brazilian-carnauba-cleaner-wax-paste-12-oz-05500/7111061-P?searchTerm=Wax+carnauba#customer-reviews-d....

Just repeating what is a common practice in the pinball community: It is preferred that the carnauba wax doesn't contain any silicone. All carnauba waxes have additives otherwise it is hard as a rock. Apparently beeswax is preferred since products with silicone present problems when painting

#6871 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

... Could it be that not having an EOS switch the holding current is too high making the coil gay too hot?

That would be my 1st choice. I don't have EOS installed, I will try to remember to check mine this weekend (I'll forget).

BTW, I don't think a coil being gay has anything to do with it, they are all happy.

#6873 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I hate to be the Ohm's law police but I'm going to be for the sake of clarity and to hopefully not confuse any newbies. The amount of Power consumed (in Watts) will be the same (some negligible differences may occur due to wire sizes but not really at the levels consumed by a pinball machine) regardless of the outlet voltage supplied. The amount of current (in amps) will be different but that's not the same thing as power. I*E (or V if you prefer)=P

Ditto on bob's power comment. Double the voltage (i.e. 120V vs. 240V), the pin would draw 1/2 the current. If a pin draws, say 500W, it should be 500W regardless of 120 vs. 240V.

#6876 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Sorry to necro this post, but I'm planning on picking up the new power supply pretty soon, and had a question.
Is largely an issue with having many machines in one room, or just fluctuating power in your home in general? What voltage do I want, and do I use a multimeter to test somewhere? I have basically zero experience in this aspect of home ownership, so any tips would be appreciated.
Is the catapult/trunk shot now largely 100% consistent for those that have installed this?

Wes,

Just a quick FYI to help you out.

The new power supply is a buck-boost design. If the line voltage is low, it 'boosts' it's output voltage to maintain the desired 48V. If the line voltage is high, it 'bucks' the voltage to still maintain the desired voltage of 48V. Of course, there's limits on the input voltage, but looking at the data sheet briefly (below), the input voltage range is VERY wide. The old power supply was unregulated, it's output would vary w/respect to the input voltage.

Using a multimeter to measure line voltage let's you see the average voltage but it doesn't catch the transients (i.e. your humidifier starts up, your AC turns on, and old EM using a lot of power) which can cause variation in the line voltage...that would zip right by the multimeter. But let's say everyone is using their AC on a hot day, then your average voltage could be lower. Getting back to the power supply - there is a time constant associated with how fast it can regulate back to the desire 48V, it doesn't happen instantly. But it should be very fast as far as playing pinball is concerned and for all practical purposes, the 48V will always be 48V.

Even without the power supply upgrade, my trunk shot was almost always very close to being spot on. Can't remember it being short/long or smacking the trunk. I just didn't want to ever worry about it, and I got the upgrade anyways. After the install it's 100%. It was before, but the potential for the problem was there, so no reason not upgrade.
rsp-750-48 (resized).PNG

#6877 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Can someone with magic glass confirm this is the etching on yours? I just got a piece and it doesn't say magic glass or anything that would indicate it is. Just want to make sure this looks right[quoted image]

Well, here's mine...but it's on the other side.

It could be the same number as tempered (the coating just being applied to the normal glass).

BTW, be careful what glass cleaner you use on the glass, it can damage the coating. There's a discussion in this thread somewhere about it.

mg1 (resized).jpg

#6908 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

...So basically these wires go under the solenoid flipper bracket to give it more steady current?

EOS lowers the current once the flipper is up. The high current needed to raise the flipper isn't needed once it's raised. Manufacturer's had two sets of windings on a coil: One being a lower resistance (higher current which means higher power) used when the flipper button is first pressed, the other winding was a higher resistance (lower current and lower power) once the flipper was up. The switch between the two was the EOS. This also had the benefit of lowering the temperature of the coil when the flipper was held up.

Not sure if AP follows this exactly or not.

#6910 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

... I haven't soldered in many years, and I don't have the parts in front of me...

Go grab some old wire and have at it for some practice.

An important sidebar about soldering. Don't use solder or flux for pipes, it has acid in it. Get some 60-40 solder w/a rosin core and maybe a some rosin flux from Amazon or the like. 60-40 will have lead in it, but it has a lower melting point than lead free, and it is easier to work with. Won't cost much ($7), and you barely need any. But it will be safe for electronics/electricals.

Might be handy to get some rosin solder wick in case you get too much solder on a joint. It's flat, thin, braided wire that is used to remove solder. Works great. About $6 for a spool.

If your worried about it, I bet some pinhead out your way would help you out.

These work good, I've used both:
solder (resized).PNGsolder_wick (resized).PNG

#6917 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Dual-wound flipper coils haven't been used in a new game for a (relatively) long time. Modern flippers are single wound and CPU controlled. They send a full power long pulse for some duration and then back off to a pulsed low power state, the EOS is now used to detect if the flipper gets knocked down by a ball and if it does the full pulse is sent again to push it back up. They added code to Houdini to support this functionality, without it the only real difference is that if the flipper gets knocked down it will not get pushed back up until you re-flip it. Houdini was definitely not the first game to not have EOS switches, many Data East games didn't have them either.

Thanks bobu, I didn't even know that. I usually learn by fixing what breaks in my games, haven't had the need to replace one in my newer games.

I stand corrected!

#6944 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

A $25 (on ebay often at this price) used thomas traceable 4240 dual temp probe is handy.
Here's one:
ebay.com link » Thomas Traceable Hi Accuracy Monitoring Thermometer 4240

I have a FLIR, I'll try to snap some pics Friday.

#6949 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

My two cents: Enjoy the game.

Good reminder for wes. I really haven't done much other than installing the Cliffy on the SEANCE scoop and the power supply upgrade (which I didn't really need but thought it was a good idea). I did buy the blade protectors for when I lift the playfield - but that was actually for all the pins.

I bought the fully Cliffy set, but boy, I'm with ya...some will be sitting in the box longer. But the scoop area, in any game, would be a high wear spot. So that was a high priority install. Took a couple of hours due to my inexperience. Next up is the plunger area.

Played great right out of the box and still does. Now...if I can just beat my wife's high score. Grrrr..

#6953 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

So, to get the scoop installed, did you basically have to strip everything off of the playfield around the scoop? I took the plastic behind the scoop, and the scoop off and had hoped that it would just slip in. But it didn’t seem to want to be that easy.

Let's see...going from my poor memory:

1) The long plastic up top comes off. Note that some of the screws along the edge don't need to come out, there's a notch in the plastic. Just loosen them up. (Didn't know that)
2) I remember having to take the solenoid out. Not hard, but a screw or two is in an spot where the screwdriver is close to bumping into other stuff. So grab something to hold it in place like a long zip tie, etc. This was needed to get the lip of the Cliffy into the scoop hole.
3) A post comes out, don't remember which one, kinda obvious tho.
4) The most difficult part was trying to loosen up the metal rail so you can slide the cliffy under it. I recall loosening up 4 or 5 screws (the others at the other end were hard to get to). Still wasn't easy at all. Go slow and don't force it.
5) I believe the planchet needs to come off, but that was easy.

Those are the big ones. As pinballinreno mentioned, always put down a towel to catch any stary hardware. He has pictures of his install somewhere in this thread too. I usually also stuff a small rag or kleenex in areas or other hole openings too. And get a camera out and shoot a boat load of pictures of how things go together before turning a screw.

#6961 1 year ago

As vire mentioned, it's unregulated. It's not undersized. The new one is a "switching" topology. The large transformer isn't needed.

#6972 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Its not a replacement supply. You leave the original in the game.
Its an upgrade to the existing.
The upgraded supply goes in the game to the right of the existing, plugs into it and a couple wires get rerouted to the upgraded supply.
This enhanced supply now has more usable wattage for the game. Since its regulated, it delivers constant correct power with twice the wattage of the original, and moves up or down as needed.
The original unregulated supply does none of this as it was said earlier its "dumb".

Pinballinreno makes a good point, for those upgrading. The original power supply is still used (the left side of the power supply outputs). It's the right side (the 48V section) that is disconnected - and the 48V switcher upgrade is utilized in its place.

#6974 1 year ago
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:

...owners speculating on things between domestic and export machine power supplies.

Oz,

I think the better question is to ask your distributor, and have him back it up with numbers, why you don't need the upgrade. Is he a EE or a salesman that doesn't want to deal with the possible issue? Does he know your line voltage variation? Has he measured it? Over time? If it's not an improvement, why did AP offer it?

I'm not speculating, I'm a EE that understands the issue, as does more than a few people here. It's simple, and has been correctly discussed here numerous times to the point of being redundant.

Not trying to sound like a jerk. In the end it's your choice, but I think he is giving you some bad advice based on speculation.

By all means, if you feel more comfortable with an answer from AP, I understand.

#6978 1 year ago

I think what bothers me about Oz's distributors comment is there's no guarantee that the line won't ever fluctuate. You're at the mercy of the electric company and other variables. What if Oz moves to an area that isn't as reliable? What if it varies enough that it occasionally hits the trunk opening and damages the paint over time? Oz has 13 pins, what if they are all turned on? What if the pin is eventually sold and a person buys it and experiences problems - who's responsible?

I know...there's a ton of 'what ifs' above that might not be relevant today. But there's no guarantees the issue won't crop up later. I'm the kind of the person that likes to eliminate the 'what ifs'. AP offered a solution that solves those variables and was generous enough to include a $150 credit, I'd take them up on their offer. Especially considering how simple the upgrade is to install.

My trunk shot was almost always spot on, but I still installed the upgrade. Adjusting the coil settings when the wife is in the middle of a good game would really ratchet down the 'fun factor'.

#7027 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

I usually order fuse assortments from Amazon. Screws too.

1 week later
#7216 1 year ago
Quoted from Osro:

Just want to give a quick shout out to the AMAZING customer support I received from Barry at API last night. I got him on the phone and he was able to help me get this whole thing straightened out in about 10 minutes. World class service!!

Ditto here too. Talked to Barry at AP today after trading a couple of e-mails. Excellent service!!

Barry: Thanks again - It is sincerely appreciated.

#7223 1 year ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Anyone else have trouble losing the ball in the trunk during the needle trick? My trunk shot never loses a ball unless i am in the indian needle illision. During that illusion, if i hit a ball into the trunk, it sits until a ball search releases it into the tunnell. Re-created that multiple times last night. One released, the ball comes back into play, but i lose most or all of my time. Anyone else see this?

Sort of... wife has mentioned that several times the ball sits in the stage. Switch is working and ball is correctly resting in the 'cradle '

#7305 1 year ago

BarryJ,

Are there plans to release an interconnect wiring diagram?

Thanks,
Mark

#7325 1 year ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

...I think it would look better to see shades of warm white only under any insert with colored artwork. Otherwise, the artwork should just be grayscale if the color was meant to change during modes etc...

I believe a fair amount time, the colors actually convey information (but I'm not good enough to realize what unless obvious - like what to shoot at). But I do agree w/your comment regarding toning it down a bit if not needed. Not directed solely at Houdini, but pins in general.

One area I would like to see changed is Houdini's eyes. Not a big fan of them being different colors at times.

#7329 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I agree.
The creepy eyes is what draws me in.
To have them at 2 different colors at times kills the creepy feel and looks off somewhat.
To have them rapidly blink with blue-white fire, like they are filled with electricity might be very cool once in awhile.
Instead of the alternating colors.

When they're both red is killer too.

#7334 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamaster10:

...
3.Game #1002 (#2 serial number off the line) Updated power supply, sub woofer with full factory warranty from date of purchase.
...

Subwoofer??? Where did that come from, early experimenting by AP?

Bass is one thing missing in this game, but rather easy to add an external sub given the amp has sub outputs.

#7337 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

I’m glad this came up. I have a non-powered subwoofer that’s rated for automotive use. I’ve hooked it up to the game amp, which should support the speaker, and I get nothing. The only indication I get that it’s working is that when I started up the game, I get a momentary rumble from the pulse of the amp coming to life.
I have a couple of little subwoofers that have an amp, that will need to be rewired a bit, and eventually I’m going to try that. However, it seems like the game amp should support the non-amp speakers.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Obvious question, but have to ask...did you turn up the subwoofer volume knob?

#7338 1 year ago
Quoted from rosh:

Eye color, like pretty much all colors has meaning.
Blue is his normal eye color,
teal when in seance (magnets active),
yellow, mode time running out, this is also when 'add time' first lights
Red, time about to end

Don't mean to sound like I'm nit-picking, but any interest in making them the same color and just cycle thru the appropriate colors if easy to implement? Maybe on a future 'to-do list'?

#7349 1 year ago

Are you talking about during attract mode?

Wasn't at first, but after thinking about, that's when I tend to notice the eye color being different. So 'yes'.

#7351 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Rosh receives a gold star for that answer.

He got a 'thumbs up' and a star:
Capture (resized).PNG

#7360 1 year ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

BarryJ,
Are there plans to release an interconnect wiring diagram?
Thanks,
Mark

BarryJ...bump.

#7400 1 year ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I also increased the coil settings first, but the coilstrength has changed significantly during each ball.
And I don't want to adjust the coils every 5 minutes...

Is it because of league play and other pins being turned on/off?

#7402 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Got it, no that obviously wouldn't work..
Have you heard at all why there's no European-voltage solution for this?

Rdoyle is right...the variac just compensates at that moment in time when you set it. If anything changes after that, all bets are off if your line voltage is not very stable.

1 week later
#7453 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

I think I'm going to give it a go and install my Cliffy's today, and the plastic protectors set from Little Shop!
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/API-Houdini-complete-001.jpg
So aside from the catapults, these are just simple screw in installations? Do the Switch slots just pop in? I watched a Cliffy installation on a pin, and they used a vice to tighten down the shooter lane piece. Is that necessary?
Thanks again everyone for all the help!

I bought the entire kit, but so far only installed the scoop one. And that turned into chore. Started to install the Cliffy's near the plunger, but the the piece of wood on the left didn't want to lift up after loosening the screws...likely missed one somewhere. Haven't looked into further.

Take pics for us!

#7459 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

I think I'm going to give it a go and install my Cliffy's today, and the plastic protectors set from Little Shop!
http://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/API-Houdini-complete-001.jpg
So aside from the catapults, these are just simple screw in installations? Do the Switch slots just pop in? I watched a Cliffy installation on a pin, and they used a vice to tighten down the shooter lane piece. Is that necessary?
Thanks again everyone for all the help!

I'm not sure of the purpose of protective plastic that goes around the ball catapult , and another one near the top of the PF. Seems more cosmetic than anything. Doesn't protect the edges of the PF holes. I bought the entire, but no plans on installing once I saw how time consuming it would be.

#7465 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

OK, so there is an easy way to power the topper and have it switch on when the game is switched on...

Nice write up and install.

For those not as mechanically/electrically inclined, they should be able to use a smart outlet strip which turns on other outlets when the pin is turned on. Haven't tried the one posted in the pic. Plug Houdini in the control outlet, then plug the topper into a switched outlet. Capture (resized).PNG

#7477 1 year ago

I finally got around to hooking up a powered subwoofer. I used a RCA extension cable, cut off the male end, stripped and tinned the wires which I inserted into the Houdini amp sub output and ran the remaining female ends out the vents in the backbox. Only ran about 2" out the back - didn't want wires dangling in case I moved it. My home theater has a couple of big 12" subs, too big for Houdini. But great for a test drive.

The 12" sub could be easily overbearing...just way too much. And way too big for my taste. No surprises there. So I went to Monoprice to see what they had. I should add I had a couple of their 8" powered subs, still too big for my liking. I finally opted for their slim-line series they had, 8" sub, ported. Fits just about right. Not obtrusive. Standing up now, but can be placed horizontal.

So how does it sound? First off, it will never sound like TNA or AFMr with their subs in the cabinet, but it really does a nice job. This kind of surprised me, but you really don't need much to make a big difference. It can still easily overwhelm the backbox speakers. You really just want ambience, not a lot of thumping. I bet a 6" might even be adequate, especially it was sealed. Since the Houdini sub output is turned way down. I doubt if someone would need a powered sub since the Houdini sub output is fairly high power, but I wanted a powered sub anyway.

One neat feature on the 8" slim-line series is there's a mounting bracket for a wall mount. That might be a really interesting option if someone wanted to hang it off the bottom but I wouldn't do it for fear of warping the bottom panel.

12_inch_sub (resized).jpg8_close (resized).jpg8_far (resized).jpg

#7480 1 year ago

The amp sub output is a fair amount of wattage, not low level. At work, so can't look up the specs. Passive should be fine to.

#7484 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

...The only thing I got was a mild thump out of the sub when I powered up the pinball machine and then nothing out of the subwoofer...

That actually indicates a lot. Tells me the speaker wires are OK (didn't doubt it, but you never know). It's also sort of an indicator that the actual output stage on the amp is OK (at least it did something). Just a wag, but it sort of sounds like something is amiss somewhere in the amp prior to the outputs. You can get a new amp on Amazon for ~$35 Prime. Look up a LP-168HA.

bobuk - To answer your question, see below. Looks like the sub out is 68W.
Capture (resized).PNG

#7490 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Hey Gang!
Question about the Polk 10" powered sub.
What settings on back are you all using?
What is your amp in back box set at for sub?
Thanks

I don't have the Polk, I have the Monoprice. One thing I figured out was to set the amp crossover to the highest freq. That allows you to adjust it on your sub instead (I assume you have the adjustment). If you set it to the lowest freq, and you wanted to up the crossover freq a bit, you'd have to open up the backbox. So set it to the highest, and adjust on the sub itself - easy peezy. For the amplifier sub volume control...likely barely anything since the sub has an amp. If the knob was 0 to 10, I don't think mine is even at 1. Even then I think I need to lower mine. Your mileage will vary, of course.

#7491 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

Thanks everyone. I too wonder about the amp, but will hook up a cheap speaker on low volume and see if it works. That should indicate if it’s some odd issue with my sub or the game’s amp. Game is only about six weeks old, so if the amp either a warranty item or a $35 output for me - either way, no big deal. I’ll experiment further. Thanks again.

I was thinking you mentioned you tried the sub on something else? Regardless, I'd do what you suggested (try another speaker).

#7515 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'm sorry, I don't have a game to check.
I suggested the 9/32nds nut driver because it is between a 1/4 that the poster said was too small and the 5/16ths that the poster said was too large.
Locknuts you usually run into are 5/16ths ( smaller ) or 11/32nds ( larger like on a lot of later Williams pins ).
I don't know if the poster is correct, if American Pinball used that size, or if an odd locknut got mixed into what American Pinball normally uses.
LTG : )

LTG,

A sidebar question about the plastic: Should the nut be tightened such that the plastic doesn't move? Or should the plastic be loose to help absorb any ball hits?

#7558 1 year ago
Quoted from kdecgp:

Sunday December 16 had my best game of Houdini yet. 3 trunk multiballs and 3 extra balls. Was at almost 1.5 million then got into movie binge mode and somehow hit all the shots. Thought the game froze when it went into that search engine thing at the start of binge. Got hairy (Harry?) with only 2 ramps to go when I drained two balls but it didn't end then had an agonizing wait for the ball search and got those last two ramps. Bonus on ball 4 was 159K with an 8x multiplier. last two balls weren't instant drainos but nothing exceptional happened. final score was 3.5 million. 32 minute game. 1.345 million on binge. It was also one of those "OK this is the last game and then I'm going to have dinner" type deals where the food was getting cold. Ridiculous game. The night before I was thinking of a 2 million point game as my next goal.

Geez, I just finally hit a million Sat night after 3 months. (3 ball, easy settings).

#7567 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Odd Question (maybe)- I recently acquired a HUO TWDpro. We were breaking it down and the seller remembered that he had to empty the coin box. He had multiple games at his house and all were pay to play. He indicated that he was told by some game designer, that there were games that had modes that would only come up on pay vs free play. Midnight madness and others. Any truth to this? I've never heard this before.
What about Houdini? Any other easter eggs other then Morse code start button?

I was wondering if one would pop up on the day Houdini died, but didn't see anything.

#7592 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

What do you use to protect the side art? I worry about damaging it when I open things up.

Here you go: https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#7601 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

I can't measure 10ths of a degree but my Lufkin machinists protractor says a tad more than 6 degrees
I set flippers to 21 and can still hit the ramp solid and I think the scoop and milkcan are easier now
I really do love this game already

Don't forget to check side-to-side too, not just front-to-back.

3 weeks later
#7742 1 year ago
Quoted from GSones:

That would be nice. I've found that some of the coil strength adjustments could use a bit more incremental fine-tuning (especially on the trunk catapult, up-kickers etc.)

Ditto ^^.

Even w/the volume adjustment, one increment seems to be a huge step (I can get around that one with adjusting the volume knob)...but you're right. Seems like a 1 increment adjust on the settings is always a rather big step. I've only seen owners use 1,2, or 3 settings - we never make use of the full range of the settings.

Rosh - any reason for that in the code? And can you get rid of the extreme ends of the settings that we never go near and give us finer adjustment where we use it most?

#7748 1 year ago
Quoted from rosh:

It is indexed with smaller incremental changes in the middle then at the low and high end, but I'll take a look at adding half steps...

Thanks sir! Kudos for excellent involvement!

#7749 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

For better sound adjustment, turn the sound down a little on the amp in the backbox.
It's a pain but works well.

I do that, but there's occasionally times I like to bump it up a notch...and it's just too much of a change. I have it set so I'm in the middle of the settings on the door volume adjustment.

#7762 1 year ago
Quoted from MMP:

Still loving Houdini in this house.

Wish I could up-vote more than once!

#7769 1 year ago

'The Man From Beyond' is now on Amazon Prime. After watching it for ~40 min...no clue what it is about. I thought I did going in, but not sure afterwards. But it was interesting nonetheless to see the real Houdini 'alive' in a movie. Hard to believe it was almost 100 years ago since that movie was made...

The Houdini movie (staring Adrien Brody) on Netflix is much more entertaining. A LOT of the pin music is borrowed from that flick - very fun to watch and to tie it back into the game. Every time I start to watch it, I have to go play another game.

#7772 1 year ago
Quoted from rosh:

The Houdini music was created by Matt Kern, none was taken from other places...

Didn't mean 'borrowed' in the literal sense (as in 'copying'), more of the 'style'... Sorry Matt (if needed)!

#7802 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

Sub Woofer question. I am planning to build a sub woofer to use with Houdini. what have some of the others of you done to route the wires out of the cabinet? I am thinking of mounting a phono plug on the bottom.

I just routed a stubby RCA connectors out the backbox vent.

#7809 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Sorry man, do you have any pics? I used to just route my Polk sub up through the cabinet sub on all my Sterns....where do I go for Houdini?
Thanks in advance!!!

20190123_201753 (resized).jpg20190123_201903 (resized).jpg20190123_201920 (resized).jpg
#7811 1 year ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Sorry man, I haven’t taken off my back glass yet. What is that black box?
I used to only use alligator clips to the lugs of the cabinet sub in my Stern games. Those clips won’t work here?
Thanks for your help!

The black box is just the audio amp which has a 'sub out' connection. Spring terminals. Just hook up to that, set the amp's sub out volume knob way down if the polk is powered. Adjust levels as needed.

#7838 1 year ago
Quoted from triggur:

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure Cliffy's most recent Houdini scoop protector has a little notch on the right side so you don't have to lift the wood rail anymore.

Ditto^^^ Mine a few months ago did...

#7867 1 year ago

Having some weird problems. Fairly often. For example, during Bullet Catch, if the ball goes in the stage again...it just sits there until it times out. I think's because the stage curtain is not closing at times (it's open a lot). Is the curtain not closing the culprit? Seems to close at other times just fine.

Running the latest code.

Edit about 5 min later: And now the scoop is causing me grief too. Doesn't seem to know a ball is in there at times. Will run the switch test. Related?

Houdini is possessed tonight!

Edit 2: Switches, including stage and scoop, seem fine.

#7869 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Seem fine and work fine could be two different things.
Assuming these are micro mini switches ( I don't have a game to check ) i'd get my finger in there and trip them 6 times or so, to be sure inside the switch body isn't gummed up. And adjust if a ball isn't triggering it. If optos, I'd clean them. And follow wires and reseat any connectors along the way.
LTG : )

I think I found the culprit...this sucker is suck in there and doesn't want to come out. Wonder if the servo is not working?
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#7872 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sorry I can't be more help. Hopefully the AP guys see it and post.
https://www.american-pinball.com/ I'd ask for help on their website too.
LTG : )

NP LTG - you help plenty here and always appreciated.

This is extremely weird. Raised the servo up to where the ball should roll out. Nope. Finger push...nope. Needle nose...nope. A screw driver underneath for a little assistance...nope. It's like it's arc welded in there.

Awhile ago I posted about having two balls in the stage. Ah...it's making sense now!

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#7876 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Isn’t there a test for this in the menu?

rd,

For what? A stage switch registering? If so, it seemed to register, but (edit: maybe) a fluke? Just mystified why the ball is not coming out. Time to get the manual out and see what I'm missing. Not sure of the stage mechanicals. Hope removing the stage is not my entire Saturday.

#7877 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I am having trouble following this exactly but can confirm there is a ball permanently mounted inside the stage. It is welded to a post, like a captive ball. It does go up and down via a motor though, as you see occasionally during some of the stage modes.

Ahh..I was wondering that since it didn't seem to be stuck, but I didn't think I saw it in the manual. Thanks goodness I was gentle. Making more sense now. Hmmm...ball eject only spit out 5 balls (sort of why I thought that was the problem). Wonder where ball 6 is at?

Maybe this is the 'welded' ball?
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#7878 1 year ago

Ball number 6 found.

I think the 'welded ball' in the stage threw me (and maybe others) off course. Thanks GSones for your comments. Apologies if needed to others - didn't know about that. Will investigate what I think is the stage not closing properly Saturday. Maybe I just need to calibrate the stage.

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#7880 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Definitely start there.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG.

Did that. I'm thinking the stage door is one of the real culprits - not shutting properly allowing another ball in when it should be closed. Saturday's job I guess. I've tested all the switches and coils, no issues. I recall earlier versions of code allowing to adjust. May try to revert to I can test/adjust if I can't find it in the current version.

#7883 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

How old is this Houdini? The very early ones had problems with the servo that stripped out the gears so the curtain would not close when it should. Does the curtain open and close reliably in the test?

#359, June/2018

Found the curtain recal. Will give it a spin.

#7887 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

try the stage calibration. it will at least confirm the fixed ball servo is working.
It's in the utilities menu
Code 18.12.12 removed the complete stage calibration sequence. Some people were screwing up the mech playing with it.
You will have to install earlier code to get the full sequence back. Be careful with this.

E-mailed Barry about the curtain. I ran the stages tests in the utilities. Ball up/down works fine. Curtain -nada. I put my hand on the servo to see if I could at least feel it run, but felt nothing.

I did pull the servo connectors off of PCB5 and checked the resistance between the two black wires (which I believe is the gnd and 5V, the white wire being the PWM signal) - they measured the same (~7.8K ohms) as the other stage servo. Of course, that measurement isn't conclusive - more of a sanity test.

For now, I'm in a holding pattern. I asked Barry if I should check the PWM signal or reload the old software and see if it just needs recal'd, etc.

No sense in tearing things apart until I get some feedback from AP.

#7891 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

They are tops in their field. They'll get you going.
LTG : )

No doubt about that! I had a minor hiccup a while ago, and they (Barry) were excellent w/helping out. Couldn't have asked for better customer support.

#7896 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

To make the stage work properly you would have the ball caught by a magnet and dropped into the hole ala-theatre of magic.
Adding a magnet to the rear of the stage like on the TZ diverter mod would certainly slow the ball bounceouts a bit.
Maybe a square of self stick magnetic business card stock. Its deadening and magnetic at the same time?
It's not super durable, but It's a great idea. Thin dead drop might be better.
I'll have try it, I have some here somewhere...

I believe he's referring to just using the magnets in the PF.

#7910 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

..Recently when I was modifying the ball guide on the shooter lane as a skill shot fix...

Did you mod per AP or another way? I did the AP mod, and it's still a hit or miss shot. Part of it might be the shooter rod...those don't shoot as smooth as others (I also removed the washer per AP). It's somewhat irregular despite pulling the shooter rod the same distance. I played another Houdini, shoots entirely different towards the skill shot. Not sure of the angle they have it set at, I think mine is 6.5 degrees.

#7928 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

...Yeah, I'd be up for a power supply upgrade video too! Seems simple enough, but I'm worried about incorrect wire placement, and drilling into the baseboard.

Here's a good start of what's involved (From AP's web site): http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/Power-Supply-Kit-Installation.pdf

It's not hard. Wires are color coded. 2 things gave me some grief tho.

1) My new supply wouldn't sit flush on the wood due to the small wood brace at the edge of the cabinet, so I took the brackets on the right side off for now (which helped), and just screwed it in on the left side. Someday (if I remember) I'll just make or buy a bracket the comes out the front and secure the right side. It's home use, so it's not like it's getting much of a work out.

2) The included screws weren't wood screws. Someone posted the correct wood screw and I just made a trip to the hardware store and bought a bag of them. Here's a tip: Before drilling, place a small piece of painters tape on the drill bit, the length of the screw threads (don't include the screw head). That way, you know when to stop before going thru the cabinet. Recheck the tape before drilling the next hole in case it moved. Easy peasy.

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#7930 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh man, that's a really smart idea with the drill bit!...So does the old power supply entirely sit there unused afterwards or does it work in tandem with the new? I'm assuming the former, from what I read of the instructions.

They still use the remaining original power supply's outputs, just not the 48V. The 48V is only what moved over to the new, regulated supply.

I almost think I could have swung the new supply around 180 degrees, and mounted flush. But I just installed 'by the book'.

If you also want to check that you got the right screw length - just check at the switch opening - there's the cabinet thickness.

I guess I should also add it was somewhat of a PIA reaching into the back of the cabinet...and I'm +6'!

I installed a the scoop Cliffy's and the plunger lane just the other day. I was going to do a write up and send to Cliffy. I suggested he should have a section on his web page for people to submit their installs so people know what's involved. Seems like a good idea.

#7932 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh thanks for the tips! Yeah, I'm 6'1", so I imagine that'll be a hard swing for me too. I'm not sure what you mean, by mounting it flush...

Flat, on the cabinet floor. Right side barely sits on wood brace, raising it just a hair. Lousy picture below. It would be way up if the brackets were on. You can see what the bracket looks like on the left side. Original supply way over on the left.

Also get some blade protectors so you don't scratch the upper PF sides!! Not much clearance between the PF and cabinet sides.

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#7933 1 year ago

Going from memory here, but I think it was the rear left bracket that forced the new supply to the right. I guess could have removed that one and kept the right side brackets.

#7937 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Total side question, will Sparkle be fine to use to remove wax, before applying Cliffy's?
Or would these wipes be more effective?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lens-Wipes-by-ZEISS-100-Glass-Cleaning-Wipes/132327176
Ingredients:
Ingredients: Water, isopropyl alcohol, proprietary detergents and preservatives
Ammonia free.

For the metal ones? I didn't do anything. It was freshly waxed. Or are you referring to the ones w/tape (I didn't install those yet)? The ones that look like graphite... I just don't see that they would protect much, so I left them off. If anything, I'd do the static cling Mylar.

Maybe PinBallinReno can chime in, I think he did the full install.

#7938 1 year ago
Quoted from GSones:

...
To get access to the back of the cabinet I stacked boxes in front of the coin door and pulled the playfield as far as it would go to rest the yellow stands on the boxes. This gave me just enough room to work.
[quoted image]

Good idea!

#7940 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Thanks for the shot! Yeah, that's really close to the side of the cabinet... So you'd have rather placed it where, in relation to the existing one?
I've got some blade protectors, left side scrunched up on me first time I tried tj use them.....then the playfield fell off the rails. That was a wicked day.... Has the left one ever scrunched on you? It doesn't seem to sit will into the cabinet.

Ah...so you're the one that posted about the PF falling. I forgot about that, but no doubt more than one person cringed reading that. LOL! One of my worst nightmares! After reading some of the posts, I waited until I had the protectors. Better safe than sorry. No issues w/mine.

I did tie a strap around the PF and backbox when I installed the new PS, just in case I did something stupid.

#7942 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

That was a pretty horrific night. Thing weighs a ton when it's in a weird vertical position, and man it got wedged in like a mutha. I can imagine using a tie strap would be a good idea. If there's one thing I don't like mechanically about this game, it's that unhinged playfield. I really hope they shift design on Octoberfest.
Speaking of, are there any updates as of late....?
Back to what we were discussing, did you screw in the two screws for the Cliffy side rail protector?

Screws, yep. I have pictures from the write up I started. I just started it, so not done. PM if you want it.

#7957 1 year ago

Ditto on Blitz. And no silicone additives. They use beeswax if I recall correctly. Pure Carnauba is hard as a rock, so vendors have to soften it up with additives. So figuring out the additive part is the tricky part.

#8008 1 year ago
Quoted from meSz:

Looking at possibly purchasing a Houdini and would like to know what to look for? Any issues etc. Appreciate any insight. Apologies up front as I admit I'm too lazy to go back and read (Just under) 8k post

One thing you don't need to worry about is customer support. Barry J and Dhaval V. have been top notch in my book for a couple of hiccups I've had.

About the 8K posts, it's kinda neat going thru some of the early ones, seeing how the pin evolved from early concepts to final product.

#8010 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Got my Sorbothane today....
Its really weird stuff, but looks like it will work.
Hopefully better than neoprene foam? Who knows. A ball dropped onto a pine block stopped dead in its tracks from 2 feet.
I did find 18" 45 durometer neoprene foam at home depot. Its readily available and might also work.
Im just waiting for my adhesive tape from pinrestore.com to install it.
I see a ball strike line on the right wall and the rear wall of the stage.
Im wondering if I should do the right side and the rear?
Or just the rear.
I ran a bunch of tests last night at elevated flipper powers.
The bounce outs most notably came from the rear.

Any thought on height placement (i.e. center of where ball hits, or maybe slightly high to help with a little deflection downward)?

#8023 1 year ago
Quoted from Platypus:

when I got my game it had 450 game plays and the balls were fairly beat. I replaced them which ran me out of my spares. Pinball Life is out of stock currently, apparently their major supplier quit making them.
100 balls is more than I would care to buy at a time but 25 is doable at $28.
ebay.com link » 25 1 1 16 Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs

Likely time to replace some balls...these holding up ok? Nice and shinny?

#8037 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some trivia:
Steel balls bounce higher than rubber balls when bounced off of a steel plate.
Glass balls bounce even higher if they dont break.
This has to do with the surface tension of crystalline matrices ie: high carbon steel. If you flex the surface or the whole ball, they bounce back hard!
Just had an impromptu physics class from one of my PhD customers.
I have now been told that one has to consider the overall bounciness of steel balls.
An insulator that not only absorbs energy, but keeps the surface of the ball from flexing, is what is needed, in a thin less than 1/4" thickness.
The more you know...
The hunt is still on.

So what you are saying is we need rubber balls.

#8096 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

You also have to unscrew the VUK mechanism under the playfield. The big thing under the PF that shoots the ball out of the scoop. It’s a fairly independent hunk of hardware held in with four screws.
So, step 1. loosen the metal guide rail (not the wood one, but the metal thing in your photo that’s to the left) so you can get lots of clearance to avoid scratching the PF, and
Step 2. for me, I just completely unscrewed the VUK and let it dangle. Once I did that, it was easy. I think most people had luck just loosening the VUK to the point of it being almost off. However, start by loosening the metal guide rail, then see if just loosening the VUK will work. As you’ll see, the CLIFFY won’t be able to get under the PF unless you do that. Use a magnetized nut driver (best) or socket wrench with a long extension, use a strong light so you can see what you doing, be mellow and calm, and it’s not that bad if you go through the process of adequately loosening and removing stuff to clear the way. When you tighten the screws, don’t gorilla them - firm and snug is my preference.
Others who have done this have thoughts??

Ditto on Zahner's comments above. I took the screws out that hold the VUK to the PF, and secured it so it wouldn't just be hanging. Even with loosening up screws on the metal rail, it was still a tight fit. When I installed the Cliffy's by the wooden rails, the wood would flex a bit, making it easier to install. Can't do that very much w/the metal rail.

Wes - Does your scoop protector have the side cut so it doesn't have to slip under the wooden rail? The early Cliffy's didn't have that.

#8100 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Unfortunately it didn't...Cliffy told me I got his first designed set. So yeah, I had to reloosen five screws this time, and that was my last resort after going in, and removing the metal rails....the one against the black side rail, as well as the actual guide rail.
I ending up having the VUK dangle, did you secure yours?

Homedepot sells a rubber coated 'hanger' (not the clothes kind). It's like a bendable wire, but soft on the outside - great for hanging/holding things temporarily w/o scratching them.

Look up vid1900 here about the playfield, he seems to be one of the PF restoration gurus.

#8106 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh that sounds like an awesome product! I'll definitely check that out!
Edit. Just found this. Would this work?...

Looks like what I got (but mine are a lot shorter). You can probably buy at any hardware store or Wallymart for a few bucks. Various sizes I just toss a couple of them in my 'tool bucket' so I always have them. Comes in handy for holding a lot of things. I originally used them to hang the flood lights off the gutter while I was installing the wires...and they've come in handy under the PF. The inside 'wire' holds the shape you bend, soft silicone (maybe) on the outside.

Your VUK - have you adjusted the coil strength in the menu?

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#8110 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Managed to get the game unloaded and in the house.
The game is triggering end of ball every time a ball drains even if ball save has engaged and saved the ball.
Looked under the PF and I don't see anything out of whack, disconnected etc.
Software is 18-12-12
Ideas?

Don't forget you can go into the menu and check for switches registering.