Houdini
American Pinball, 2017You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider luvthatapex2.
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All will be revealed at TPF 
Quoted from Whysnow:whom are the affiliated parties with this?
Rosh is coder?
Balcer is designer?
Whom made the board set?
Art?
DMD or display and artist?
Is it safe to assume this will be using pinnovators sound components?
No that's Rosh.
Quoted from Whysnow:you coding also Frank?
No I have nothing to do with AP. I am just cautiously optimistic of what could be knowing the talent hired. Plus I think Houdini is a great theme.
Quoted from Whysnow:ok let me ask a different question...
frank >> are you working on American Pinball in any way (please say yes!)
Old flyer. It has nothing to do with the redesigned game.
Quoted from vdojaq:Interesting.....this is not the cabinet style I believe that is going to be used.
Its their first game, why would you think it would be limited? I'm sure they want to sell as many as they can so there can be a second game. One model, no LE, etc. Nice.
Quoted from burningman:Was going to call my distributor Joe @ Pinballstar but thought I would just ask here. I recently heard on a podcast that Houdini is going to be limited to 600 games. Anyone else heard the same?
Wow this is a really nice video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. Nice game, looking better each time!
Quoted from pbu:Houdini was at Southern-Fried Gameroom Expo and was *very* playable. I had my equipment with me and thanks to Josh at American Pinball I think we now have the first real gameplay video!:
» YouTube video
To be completely honest, this wasn't a game that was really on my radar until I got the SFGE and saw and played it. This is an extremely well put together machine that plays well, and even with the early code was absolutely intriguing. This is a game I'm going to be keeping my eye on going forward as I'm excited to see where it is by the end of the year.
If I recall talking to Josh, all inserts are RGB and GI is white.
Quoted from rubberducks:Ambiguous.
All inserts are RGB, or just some? If some, which?
Also, since it hasn't been posted here:
Boy that is a beautiful looking game and those side panels really complement the game aesthetics. Great job AP as you approach the finish line.
it looks like you could unplug the 2 EYE LEDS if you don't like that feature.
Quoted from epotech:not a fan of the light bit around his eyes. still thinking of buying tho.
Not true, here is a new video published on Nov 27,2017. Josh has been updating the group at every turn during game development.
Quoted from greenhornet:if production games are indeed shipping in the near term, it would be nice to SEE how the code updates and the Balcer 'tweaks' enhance gameplay when compared to the prototypes from 6 months ago. disappointing that only a single game of video has been published during the last six months.
So in the video Josh went through a whole game and explored several modes and explained alot of the content. What exactly are you looking for?
This is the current code and probably how the game will ship. Aside from the match and wizard mode, the code looks like a full game with updates promised. I think that's fair. No surprises here.
Quoted from greenhornet:that is the one i was referring to.
the one single game of video in the last six months. the opportunity to showcase the improved lighting, current/most recent state of the code, and flow/gameplay resulting from Balcers design tweaks; lasted one game. everything else is from 6 month old prototypes. the written updates are certainly appreciated, but with games going out the door soon, im sure people were hoping for more to SEE something more. if you dont want to concern yourselves with how the game actually plays, fine. im sure the match sequence is of more importance.
No pallet when you pick it up at the factory in the box.
Quoted from rubberducks:Is the pallet covered by the cardboard, or is it not on a pallet?
Why not ask your distributor? He/she should be able to find out when you game goes on the line.
Quoted from konjurer:Games have been really slow to trickle out. Does anyone have an update. I heard there were some production problems but that batches of Houdini were going to start shipping soon.
The 71st game off the line sounds about right.
Quoted from Ericc123:So, who wants to speculate on what HOU1071 from Hogey’s game tells us? Can’t be game 1,071 but maybe game 71?
They started building these at the beginning of the year and are up to around #80. They are more concerned with building a quality machine than getting them out the door, so it will take some time. Figure 20 games a week made and shipped and you should be able to ball park a guesstimate on when you get your game. You should get a number from your distributor, right?
Quoted from wfumed2:Gotcha! What is the soonest you’ve heard from a distributor so far?
You'll never see a Beatles pin. The music rights are owned by Sony ATV and Paul McCartney has been trying to get them back for years. This looks hopeful for 2018 but do you really think if he gets back the rights the first thing he would do is license some songs for a pinball?
Quoted from hawkmoon:All this whining is funny!!! If this is your first NIB buy,then chill out!!Those of us who have waited for nib pins to arrive know this drill!! It WILL happen!!The last one was our B66! Took forever!!I've been waiting for three years for "The Beatles"!
Cliff doesn't need a play field, just someone to measure the area precisely. He makes protectors many times for games with info from someone that measures the games.
Quoted from PinMonk:It's going to need a full cliffy set, but as of the last time I checked, AP hadn't loaned cliff a Playfield to make a set of protectors yet.
It looks like instead of adjusting the TIME for the modes, Josh allows adjusting the DIFFICULTY in the modes. See the Feature adjustments and lower the mode values if you want it to be easier. Nothing wrong with that for the home user, thats why the options exist.
For example:
Handcuffs in Handcuff Escape The number of handcuffs multiplied by the number of pops per handcuff determines the level of difficulty.
• Handcuffs needed represents how many ‘levels’ are in the mode.
At each level, Houdini throws a pair of handcuffs/chains out from behind the display.
• Options: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
• Default: 6
Drop this to 4 to make it easier. Looks like every mode has an adjustment.
Quoted from konjurer:Rosh,
Have you given any more thought to adding a setting to adjust the mode difficulty such as extending the time to complete? Certain podcasters this past week went out and played the game with 1 minute average ball times. They speculated that the game was not approachable by average players on location (I'm paraphrasing). Houdini has developed a reputation that it is brutal. Brutal is good to a point but I wonder if that growing reputation is going to hurt sales. I love the rules and I'm having a blast. But it is frustrating that the mode times are so short making it hard for novice to intermediate players to make progress into the game.
Hopefully you are considering the suggestion and keep up the great work!
Perhaps people are just used to other games that warn you of a scoop eject with a light and sound going off.
If Josh's intent is to surprise you, it make sense to have a sleuth mode. Always trust the programmer unless you can convince him otherwise.
Quoted from CUJO:I must be missing someting regarding the scoop eject.
Mine has never shot SDTM from the scoop. Ok, in 170 3 ball games, maybe twice.
It'll trickle out and gently bump off the right slingshot to the left where I can gather it up with the flipper.
Occasionally it'll take two tries to eject a scoop ball.
I'll see it popping it's ball head out like a Whack-A-Mole game before the second eject is successful but never get it SDTM... Weird how so many have this issue.
I agree with ROSH..You always have time to react, no mater where the ball is coming from. No need to tell the player it's gonna be coming from the scoop. Seems almost silly to do that.
I'm curious. Why would you want to turn off the skillshot?
Quoted from Videogod:Any way to turn off the skill shot?
...and you get to tell the story of what the monkey has to do with Houdini when someone asks you!
Quoted from BarryJ:Good question for the person who.....designed them.
My guess is, the ladies are easier to look at and the monkey is just fun!
I like that he shows you how long you played to get the high score. Neat!
Quoted from lodgingdolphin:After tweaking and dialing in the shots I’m starting to perform much better on the game. Still have a lot of work to go to reach the wizard modes though.
I’ve been able to complete the milkcan mode several times in the last few days, which is a first since I got the game a couple weeks ago. Finishing that mode gives you 4x playfield!
With programmatically controlled flippers, the EOS switch is no longer necessary. Software controls each coil individually and can therefore shut off the power coil whenever necessary. I don't see why you add EOS switches to your Houdini flippers? It won't be used.
Quoted from pinghetto:My machine is super sensitive to power. My catapult and flippers certainly struggle when three games are turned on. I did add EOS switches to my flips. It really seemed to help quite a bit during multiball when the flippers would get pushed down on a hold.
I also replaced the washer on the pivot post for the lower catapult. I used a slightly thicker and larger washer. It takes some of the slop out of that arm. That washer seems to have helped straighten the shot out when the coil power gets turned up.
In conclusion... BRING ON THE DAUGHTER BOARD!!!
And with all that said, I really love my game. It will all get worked out and get even better. Especially with the great bunch of folks AP has on staff.
Brian
Hold coil on all flippers are controlled by the code. I don’t have eos on my flippers on wrath of Olympus (also a p-roc game) and flippers never droop when hit with a ball during multi ball. Maybe your house voltage is too low
Quoted from pinballinreno:So without an EOS switch if a flipper gets hit hard it will just drop? The hold power is anemic.
I have read several posts about left flipper dropping during multiballs.
How does the computer know if a flipper is deflected downward from a hard hit without an EOS switch.
It looks like I will also be installing them since the code already supports them.
This is a serious issue.
Get ready to make up a parts list and simple schematic for us to use for this aftermarket fix.
http://tiltforums.com/t/houdini-rulesheet/3934
Quoted from colonel_caverne:Ok but I don’t know how to complete some of them.
For example one mode is asking to keep shooting the spinner. Until what?
One is asking to hit each target. Until what?
What happens if you are in a multiplayer game and player 1 beats the wizard mode? Do all players end?
Quoted from rosh:woke up to see 22 new messages, was wondering what.
Obviously the majority have no issue with the game ending. My view on that is if you actually make it to it, especially if you have not set it up super easy to do, but even then, your game had to take a very, very, very long time, so you certainly got your money's worth (and I'm sure the operator would want you the he'll off the game). But the idea is that you have taken your final exam, you passed or you failed, after a final exam, you don't keep going, you are done. Keep in mind you also just played a mode with reversed and inverted flippers, with six balls and a sixty second ball save (and then another single ball for 60 seconds), so if you are not ready for a break then you are either a super hero with special powers and wrists of steel or a glutton for punishment.I believe I now have this scenario fixed.
If its working fine would you buy the power supply add-on?
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Apparently it’s not needed in Australia... but by the sounds of things I’m going to have to fork out for it. About $350 AUD
Aren't the coils 12V?
Quoted from MightyGrave:I'm very thankfull for the API-Support ! Hope API can give me some more hints how to fix this behavior with the inconsistent coil power.
So 10 minutes ago I orderd a 5V, 10A Powersupply. I Will install it tomorrow to get consistent 5V for the boards and to find out if something changes.
Why assume? pull the logs and send them to support. Its difficult to test every possible scenario.
Quoted from Nick36:Just had a trunk multiball in Master Magician Mode with a reboot
Hopefully the new code update will fix these errors with cool features soon
See post #9937
Quoted from FYMF:Josh,
Care to DM me your email address? I will send the logs over later if you are able.
Isn't the last update code version 19.10.24? (10/24/2019) Why not update?
Quoted from pinballinreno:My houdini.
Last update:
4-7-19
Anniversary coming up.
I really want some fixes.
I love this game, its never leaving!
(Yes im drinking...)
You should use the coil the game is designed to use, not something else because you think it will be better. If FL-11629 is the coil in the game from the factory this is what you should use.
Quoted from MightyGrave:So while waiting for the "coil improvement Kit" from my distributor I will try to switch back to the "normal" flipper coils. But I need to know which WPC Coils I can use for the flippers. At the moment FL-11629 (blue wrapped) is installed.
Maybe I should try one of those, cause the FL-11629 need a lot of "power" and the "weaker coil" should compensate the 50V of the powersupply - right?
FL11630 "standard" flipper strength, parallel coils, used on nearly all Williams system 11 pinball games (Red Coil Wrapper Color) - power 4.7 ohms; hold 160 ohms
FL11722 "weak" flipper strength, parallel coils (Green Coil Wrapper Color) power stroke coil 6.2 ohms; hold flipper upright coil 160 ohms
May it's possible that rosh can provide more settings in the gamecode especially for flipper coil pulse timings. That would give more opportunities to adjust Houdini when using different coils.
Also I will try to build and power filter- / power supply board for all the HV-Rails, cause all other manufactors use somethink like this (Stern, Spooky, etc)....
You might like an external sub. It will give you incredible bass without sawing a hole in the bottom of the cab. And if you have another game next to it you can give bass to 2 games.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Some kind of buck/boost would be ideal to stabilize power to the game.
I used a variac until the capacitor upgrade and no longer need it!
My game now runs as smooth as can be with none of the inconsistencies of the earlier, first gen games.
Now, all I need is to install the subwoofer in the lower cab...
Your external sub will sound better.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have t Polk sub.
But the real issue is that new games have the sub installed and FOMO has kicked in.
I must install the sub to be current lol.
Does your game have the lepai 168h amp? If so this amp has a subwoofer channel, just plug in! Subwoofer connections are beneath the main speaker connections on the amp.
Quoted from zahner:Does it work without an amp for the sub? I couldn’t get anything out of my passive woofer without adding an amp. I thought that was why people were using powered subwoofers. This has always confused the heck out of me.
No, you can not load more than 6 balls in the game or it will get confused. Are you sure its the scoop that is clicking, or is it the trough? Here is a video Dave from support created for trough troubleshooting:
Quoted from scbill88:I know you need at least 6 balls in for the machine to start up. Can you have extra? Today the scoop kept on clicking as if "searching" for a ball. After a few clicks there was another click from a different location then a short "rolling sound" and then the ball pop out of the scoop. This has actually happened a couple times.
If I add and extra ball or two will it help alleviate the issue, or will I just end up with an extra ball in the trough?
Certainly pursue the smart power strip but the Polk PSW10 has an auto on/off so set it to auto and never have to mess with it. From the manual:
AC POWER CONNECTION AND AUTO ON/OFF
Your PSW Series subwoofer features auto on/off circuitry, marked “auto” on the power switch, which
automatically turns your subwoofer on when it senses a program signal. We recommend the “auto”
setting if your subwoofer is always receiving power (ie, if it’s plugged into a wall outlet).
Quoted from darkryder:No, I have the same issue with the topper and my Polk PSW10 subwoofer...they're both unplugged as they don't turn on/off automatically with the game. Sucks having to plug/unplug those devices when I want to play some Houdini! Looks like Zahner shared an easy solution, I'm going to order one of those smart power strips and see if it works as advertised. This forum is awesome, someone always has a solution to every problem.
Contact ap on the support page and service will get you sorted out.
Quoted from rojeff:Hi all.
New owner here....got my unit used about 2 months ago. Love the game...great theme & super fun!!Did start having an issue in the last day or two which seems very very similar to this thread from Tugboat1. But the thread seems to have gone quiet...maybe it was taken over to a direct message?
Just wondering how Tugboat1 and rosh were able to get it resolved?
Thanks in advance!
Jeff
Incorrect number of balls in the game?
Quoted from Snugs:Right, now the machine is powering up perfectly. all lights / screens etc running flawlessly.Go to start a game but it acts like there's no balls installed. Plunger issue has fixed itself but no ball pops into shooter lane to be plunged. Flippers aren't working either. just don't move at all when buttons are pressed. stuck an extra ball into shooter lane, plunged it and game works/reacts/scores correctly but no flipper movement and no ball 2 to plunge after first ball drains. hopefully these are the last two fixes before I'm back up and running. Anyone have any advice on a fix?
The houdini amp (lepai) has a dedicated sub out (left channel and right channel). Speaker wire from amps left - and left + (or the rights), then over to the polk at the speaker level input left - and left + (or the rights). You will get rumble for sure.
Quoted from PinJim:I’ve been toying with the external sub setup on my game. Right now I am using a splitter on the 3.5mm audio jack and then covert that to RCA which is hooked up to my external sub. My reasoning for doing it that (as opposed to using the onboard amps output as a speaker level feed to the sub) is that the unamplified signal hasn’t been altered by the onboard amplifier crossover.
Honestly, the result of this setup is still a bit disappointing. The bass lacks umph, even with my Polk sub set at max level and the highest crossover setting.
I think I may revert to using the onboard amps output to feed a line level converter and isolator. Maybe that give me a stronger signal? I guess I’m accustomed to my STTNG or TZ - the Polk sub rumbles the room when those games are being played….
[quoted image]
The houdini AMP has dedicated connections for left, right main speakers and a dedicated connection for the sub. The sub also has its own volume control on the amp. I assume you have the lepai 168h amp
here is the amp manual
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/310-308--lepai-lp-168ha-manual(2).pdf
Quoted from drummermike:I recently added a 6" speaker in the bottom of my Houdini cabinet. I hooked it up to the sub on the small amp in the backbox.
It works but seems unclear and low in volume. Anybody else do this? What settings did you use on the amp? Would it work better hooked to the main speaker terminals? Thanks.
Standard = Classic in APs new offerings going forward.
Quoted from bobukcat:It appears they just did a run of OKT as several distributors are advertising new stock of that game for sale.
AP's talk of adding a "Classic" (whatever the hell that means) has made their terminology confusing for the trim levels of their games. If you look at what Distributors are currently advertising for pre-order spots for Houdini there is a Standard and Deluxe with the Deluxe adding the interior art, shaker, knocker, Steampunk Flippers, Magic Glass and topper. This is from Maine Home Rec's listing and to my recolection it's the first time the flipper toppers have been broken out as being only on the deluxe but then again I got mine when the game was first released and there was only one version and everything else got added on later.
All of the AP releases come with a comprehensive changelog. Here is the latest Houdini.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KRuL1sV2mgxqJG0zIwBi_YZ7ZFn-Apu1/view
Quoted from jacksparrow0112:Looking to possibly get a Houdini in the next week from a local trade. Very excited because I love the artwork and have enjoyed playing this game on location in the past.
Based on my initial research, it sounds like AP released a fairly substantial code update last year. Are the major code changes in that release summarized somewhere? I am interested to learn how the game has been refined since the last time I played it (2019 I believe).
Appreciate it!
Clever use of a solenoid that had a single purpose in pinball for 6 decades. Great stuff Josh
Quoted from rosh:Not quite right, on Houdini, besides match and replay the knocker is only used for bullet catch. It really adds to it if you set up the right jackpot shot, but that its the only place it is used. The shaker on the other hand is used in quite a few places (elephant, ball locking, seance, pops, escapes) and I highly recommend it.
On Oktoberfest the knocker gets a bit more use (duck hunt, target shooting, bumper cars). In Hot Wheels uses it for Loop Crash Multiball. The thing with the knocker, is you want to be very selective and judicious in using it.
If I recall you can clear the credits in service mode under utilities.
Quoted from bobukcat:Credits towards games or in the audits? I'm confused. If it's just a bunch of credits plunge out a bunch of four player games to get rid of them all.
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