And look what magically appears at my home. A new in box Houdini from American Pinball. Talk about customer service. Thank you Joe And Barry for personally coming over to set up this stunning game.
Quoted from vireland:
They are standard B/W lockdown bars, made for the standard B/W size. I don't know the details, but maybe Churchill didn't realize there was a problem with their dimension conversion from inches to mm until they had a bunch of cut wood for thousands of cabinets. I dunno. Why customize all the standard existing parts to fix what is essentially a non-standard cabinet design they produced? I know the AP guys are on it to make sure it's fixed on the next machine, and I assume CGC is as well, but I have no idea what to say about Churchill letting it get this far.
Barry told me that the wood the cabinet is made from is metric sized .... Just what I was told from AP
Ok guys........ is anyone that has one abile to hit the two upper targets on the skill shot. I have been playing with the shooter and ball guide for a few hours to no avail.
Quoted from DylanFan71:
I installed the latest code last night and wanted to understand something better. When you start a mode in the theater, are you supposed to be able to choose which mode? I watched a bit of the Buffalo stream and thought they chose their modes. Am I misunderstanding something?
Pretty sure it changed with the new code. Only can change it if you get a show ticket that says so
Quoted from BarryJ:
This is the fix.
With a flat head screwdriver and a small rubber mallet.
Hit the flat rail right above the closest screw at the top.
Your goal is to move the flat rail closer to the post, when done correctly all targets can be hit.
The game never had a variable skill shot, therefor there was no need to insure all 3 targets could be hit. We have sense changed this policy moving forward, but all games out there might need a tweak!
CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH YOUR PLAYFIELD!!
This will not fix all games Barry.... I machined out the last hole on the stainless guide to make it more adjustable. While it does help it still cannot hit the to target on even a 10% basis.
I used a slow motion camera and this is what I see.... when the ball travels up the shooter trough in the playfield it is about an 1/8 inch away from the wooden shooter lane edge and stainless ball guide. when the ball transition for the turn on a hard enough shot to hit the to target it does not transition for the turn smoothly because of the gap. The ball hits the guide moving forward then deflects in the transition once it hits the guide which causes it to not move flowing threw the guide.
I feel the only way to completely solve this is with another guide the sticks out an 1/8 inch closer to the ball at launch and runs comletly along the path of the existing guide.
I may work on a mod for this if AP does not have a different fix.
Im playing mine at around 6.5/6.7 degrees. I wanted a little more action with the ball
Ok ......I got so sick of not being able to consistently hit the skill shot I made a new ball guide.
This craziness of shoot the ball softer to do this as so forth did not work for me.
The issue is the short distance from the ball bouncing during the radius transition
Here is what I did to bring the guide the entire length making the skill shot perfect every single time for each target consistently if your plunge is correct. It transitions the ball smoothly with zero bounce. I used a modified factory B/W ball guide
Quoted from wcbrandes:
How did you come to the new curvature or radius of the modified B/W lane guide ?
Cant remember what game it was... from a box of them I had. This one was about 18" long.
I cut the exit just like the stock one so the hole on the guide would line up with the post then cut.
Bent the radius to almost stock then cut to length by the plunger keeping it about a 1/2 inch longer.
Bent and cut the rear tab. so I could put a screw in the back of the wood rail.
As for the center hole it just fell into place perfect at the beginning of the radius
I buffed out and installed.
Its not about the radius , its about how the ball transitions though the radius from the shooter lane. With this guide it sits closer to the ball just enough and I can start the radius where I like in a slow gradual bend so the ball does not ricochet off like it does with the stock rail. I worked with the stock rail for over two hours and could not gets a consistent pull that worked ........the harder I shot, the higher the target hit which is the way I wanted.
This fix's that.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Can you make another one and send it to Barry and Josh?
I would definitely do that but I don’t have any more ball guides that long. I look around some more but basically all the need to do is extend the guide to the front of the shooter. And make a proper smooth transition bend
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Now my question is:
What modifications are necessary to the existing lane guide in order to reproduce your result?
The existing guide can be removed, reformed and re-positioned pretty easily.
Others will want to do this.
The factory guide can be removed or just kept in place and pushed all the way like Barry suggested
As for the new or replacement guide. If you extend your guide all the way down to the shooter and allow for an adjustable oblong mount holes in the existing place this should be enough
I am really anal about altering my games from factory
I actually did not drill the top center mount ( I can do that any time if nothing else is produced by AP ) just the rear one by the shooter which you will never see if someone removes I just used very thin strong 3m double sided tape, rear screw at the shooter and front flange to the post to hold.
The center screw head is just super glued to the guide for looks right now Incase a factory approved rail is made
It should be an easy inexpensive design change.
Quoted from pinballinreno:
Im certain that if you want to modify your existing lane guide in a way that is documented and reproducible for other owners.
By either dremeling out the mounting holes or by bending a smoother curve, API can get you another one for your troubles.
I would need a factory one with extended length that runs completely down the rail. That and oblong holes on the top mounting bracket
I really thin that would suffice
Quoted from pinballinreno:
I think its a matter of lane guide adjustment.
Ive spent hours getting all of my games lane guides tweaked, bent, ground off, drilled out etc to get them running smoothly.
With patience and a little thought, most games can be made to perform perfectly.
Ive spent hours...... Its funny I had the same problem with AFMr skill shot. I spent literally 10 hours finding a fix thats perfect 100%, I had 3 friends say they did CGCs fix and theirs works fantastic, all three friend played mine with my fix and were blown away and now all three had me do my fix as it appears it wasnt as good as people make it out to be.
I do this for a living, Im not saying I the expert but all games are NOT the same. The ball is around 1/8 to 3/16 away when leaving the shooter lane when it impacts the guide causing a deflection. On a pull thats hard enough to hit the top target Im no where near it as im only hitting the E. If I make the gap smaller the angle is too steep and deflects more.
I think the guys with games that hit 100% with a pull from hard to soft hitting the top target first, then with softer pulls hitting each skill shot after should chime in with the set up and angle's they are using.
My game pitch is .037 degree side to side and 6.73 degree back to front at the moment. Shooter centered, full white superbands, and over 15 hours tweaking in the rest of the game so all shots are butter smooth.
Every single pull from the shooter can accurately hit each target with what i have done now.
Now my ball completly rides the guide up the shooter. As seen in the pic 3 inches higher than the ball there was no way for me to make 3/16 inch up with no deflection on my game
One thing I just noticed on my game. The wooden ball guide / rail is mounted about 1/8 inch to the right over hang which would cause the same thing. Any of you guys that have great working shooters have a pic of this
Quoted from bobukcat:
I guess you could set the reset High Scores counter really, really low as a work-around?? I agree it seems like a standard thing since all(?) DMD games have it but it was apparently not on the developer's mind when creating a completely new game system, surely they'll get around to addressing it as code support on this game has been fantastic so far.
Did the same exact thing...... I set timers set to 60 seconds last week and what a difference it makes.
As for worrying about side art ripping.......I just don't put any on like all the rest of my games.
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