Carol Stream, IL
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Barry can you talk to the warehouse to get mine shipped soon!
Quality takes time. We are doing our best to get games out the door. I even help on the final line. It's worth the wait 
(Topic ID: 183206)
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Houdini
American Pinball, 2017
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Quoted from PinMonk:Speaking of which, are you going to change the hex standoff to a slightly taller one so the ball makes the shot into the wireform more reliably? (Pictures posted earlier in this thread)
Actually the standoff is the right height. Being a wire ramp there are slight differences between wire ramps and different ramp runs. A different wire ramp might sit perfect were yours does not. Regardless, what you need to do is adjust the coil strength.
With that being said...........Our preliminary manual is available on line under the "SUPORT" tab, select resources and download the manual.
Go to section 3-10...bottom of page and follow the "TO CALIBRATE COILS AFTER MOVING OR RE-LEVELING HOUDINI" section, LMK if there are any problems, but modifying the ramp should not be needed!
Quoted from transprtr4u:Welcome Barry!
So does this mean we will 2 AP reps dealing with all the questions?
Yes we are both here to help!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Whysnow:how many of these will be at MGC?
I need more time on a production machine.
4 machines, that is what we are shooting for.
1 week later
Quoted from konjurer:My lock shot quit working. The ball just sits in the catapult. When the ball search starts, it does fire the catapult and I get credit for lock but it really sucks to have to wait and no lighting effect either. Any thoughts as to what's going on? Seems to stuck be in a weird state.
sounds like the switch isn't working check it out in switch test. Need help call me. 833.API.HELP
1 week later
Quoted from tmntrule999:Went to an arcade last weekend and Houdini was the one pinball machine out of order. I was so excited to play it. Planning on going again soon though and hopefully they have it ready to go.
What location was this at?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I donāt think the pop broke, it looks like it was removed. Lymanās is staffed by people who KNOW what they are doing, so I assume they have already reached out. The bartender who is apparently not involved in fixing the games told me āsomething broke on The Board.ā Silly me, I assume he means there was a burnout in the backbox! Then I saw the removed pop.. LOL
The ring on the pop is gone.. Most likely has been removed. I haven't been notified, so I think it's an in house repair.
Quoted from tmntrule999:The 257 arcade in Woodfield Mall in Illinois. Very cool place by the way.
I've been there, I recommend the pulled pork nachos or the Cubano.. Was a broken flipper return spring, it is now playable once again!
Quoted from LTG:Check page 3-13 in the preliminary manual. There are some settings. No idea if they are what you are looking for.
LTG : )
There are no sound adjustments within the software. All sound adjustments are done at the amp.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It was great meeting you at TPF Barry!
Everyone there was so very helpful and knowledgeable. What a great team.
Is the amp easily accessible? Those settings would be sufficient for just about anything.
From what I understand its buried in the backbox and the screen has to be removed to get to it?
Or can it be relocated?
I dont have my game yet so Im interested in this.
Thanks!
The settings will be on the top of the amp and are easily accessible by removing the back glass. the connections for the speakers and sub are on the bottom and the monitor sits over that side....So you need to remove the monitor to get to those connections. We set the amp settings a specific way when the game leaves the factory so feel free to adjust for your acoustic setting.
Quoted from pinballinreno:It was great meeting you at TPF Barry!
Everyone there was so very helpful and knowledgeable. What a great team.
Is the amp easily accessible? Those settings would be sufficient for just about anything.
From what I understand its buried in the backbox and the screen has to be removed to get to it?
Or can it be relocated?
I dont have my game yet so Im interested in this.
Thanks!
Here is the other side of the amp..Covered by the monitor and were a powered sub would be connected.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I see a lot of guys adding subwoofers on the floor below their games.
Is it possible to add a sub inside the game (im just thinking aloud now...)?
I know that absolutely the external sounds better, but some games have sub onboard now or at least a snappy base speaker?
I just added a sonos play5 to my game room, so Im getting more interested in audio again after not caring for 25 years lol.
You could mount it in the game floor...But, you would have to do some drilling as there is no speaker on the floor from the factory.
Quoted from ElectricLou:Hi
I just got my Houdini yesterday. It looks incredible.
I have a problem with the API Theatre. I knock it 3 times, the curtains open but when the ball enters, it stucks inside the hole between the fake ball and the subway. The game stall and nothing happens. I have to wait for the fake ball motor to release it without starting the mode.
I searched a solution to test the ball motor without success. Any idea?
Thanks
Lou
Of course I have an idea... Go into test>Utilities>Stage calibration. Run the calibration and it should work like a champ.
Quoted from bobukcat:I just took the translite out of my game for the first time, just for curiosity's sake. It is really hard to get under the lip to lift it, I don't have finger nails so maybe that would make it easier but I had to use a plastic putty knife in order to lift it enough to get my fingers under it.
Yes it is. Put your open hand on the glass near the bottom lip and push up.. That's how I do it.
Quoted from mbelofsky:It wasnāt a great photo. The ball is sitting on the top side of the gate. The ball was resting against the gate so that the ball could not be shaken free. I probably need to bend the wire but donāt want to make any physical changes on a day old machine.
The gate in the resting position is behind the left post. When the ball slowly rolled to the area it was cradled by the left post and gate.
As much as we try to find every ball trap, we don't. The perfect storm happened and there the ball sits. Even though it is a day old machine you will need to bend the gate or do nothing and it probably will never trap there again...But if it does play the lottery.
Call me at 833.API.HELP and I can see what I can do with this.
Quoted from VividPsychosis:Rosh I love the game, I am having a wonderful time and consistently get over 700k. I do still continue to have a significant issue with the plunger in the game. I have loosened the housing and moved it all the way to the right, in an attempt to get the plunger to hit the center of the ball, however, even at the right most location, the ball is not stuck directly from behind and causes the plunged ball to hit the rubber posts on the left side of the shooter lane when coming out of the shooter lane before attempting to strike the skill shot. This causes missed skill shots, completely dead plunges that just fall into the outlane, or it contacts the rubber and then barely pops out of the shooter lane and goes sdtm. Very annoying. Looking for a fix, as it appears that either the playfield naturally sits to far to the right in my cabinet or the shooter assembly was installed too far to the left, making even the most extreme allowed adjustment of the housing, not adeqate enough to place the plunger behind the center of where the ball sits. (currently its off to the left a bit, originally it was WAY off to the left and barely stuck the ball.) Hope you can help
Call me at 833.API.HELP Lets fix this!
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Game play & playfield views video filmed at the Midwest Gaming Classic (MGC). We used a shotgun mic to get great sound despite the fact that 3 TNA machines were right behind it. Now since I filmed this when the show floor was dark I didn't notice that the speakers are really in the top of the head
But, using the lower grills at the base of the head I'm still happy with how it turned out.
Ā» YouTube video
Jeremy & the Pinball Mayhem Crew
Great video showing off our Magic Glass...
"Now since I filmed this when the show floor was dark I didn't notice that the speakers are really in the top of the head".... There are speakers on the top as well as the bottom of the head for a total of 6 speakers.
Quoted from mcbPalisade:Short answer: because I can. I wouldn't buy Houdini because it doesn't have a knocker. Won't buy a toy without essential equipment.
Knocker will be available shortly...
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Check the board to the right. Lower left connector. You just may have a loose wire here. Or that upper right connector. But you wouldnt have lights on coin door either.
LED 3 on the ADD ON Board (far right board) should be on if ribbon connector is on correctly. If LED # isn't on then the ribbon connector is most likely installed correctly. LED 3 should always be on when power to the game is on.
833-API-HELP or call my cell 224-422-3191
Barry
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Confirmed, the shorter version.
Everyone else's second fuse holder empty?
Everyone else's second fuse holder empty? Yes the board is designed for 2 different voltages. The only voltage being used right now is 12V for the LED on the start button and shaker motor if installed. the other empty fuse might be used for the 48V to run the knocker coil...but we are also testing a 12V knocker.. We have options!
Quoted from CUJO:Enjoying my new Houdini but random balls keep hopping up and getting stuck behind the Seance planchete on top of the plastic.
American Pinball? Got a fix or suggestion on this one?
I've probably getting a ball stuck there on every 2-3 games...
Did you up the coil settings?
Quoted from Yelobird:Sooooo close! After 10 months of waiting I Believe this is the week I Finally get my Houdini's!! Urika! I have a chalk outline on the floor waiting for his arrival and the Escelara is all charged up for the decent. Just waiting on the green light from Joe at PinballStar!
Come on by if your in the neighborhood, visitors are always welcomed!
Our Houdini shirts are now available on our web site
https://store.american-pinball.com/
$25 + Shipping
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Very cool designs, Barry - I like the monkey one especially. But is there a reason the Houdini shirts donāt feature an image of you know... Houdini?
Good question for the person who.....designed them.
My guess is, the ladies are easier to look at and the monkey is just fun!
Quoted from LTG:Tom's Hardware has a picture to help you.
LTG : )
Can not use (-) and (-)
Need (+) and (-)...pick a side, doesn't matter cause the sub is mono.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:I have enjoyed the playing and testing the two games that are presently being burned in and tested in the shop for identification for needs of bulletproofing prior to routing.
There seems to be some more switch adjustments needed, and more protectors needed as aftermarket for some of the brickshot airballs to protect plastics. Latest software was an improvement, but there still is a lagginess in the lightshow effects, and unknown lost balls underneath the playfield cause undetermined. LCD integration and effects were well done. The proprietary use of non-lugged coils and Molex exclusive connectors was not perfectly received from an operator standpoint. Durability of some of the PCBs, made pause on future cold solder joints potential due to game vibration.
Plenty of other observations are being recorded for AP first "true" pinball title.
Keep flipping.
Feel free to call me with any problems
833-API-HELP
Quoted from HOOKED:Anyone else noticed the naked girl in the window on the center plastic? Noted it today when i was toying with a mod placement.
There is 1 more to find,not as easy as the first.
Magic Glass is available.
https://store.american-pinball.com/collections/frontpage/products/magic-glass
Quoted from Insanity199:Trunk catapult worked 100%.
You have no idea how impressive that is!!! WOW
API grand video screen faded in and out. Sometimes blacked out, sometimes ok.
Most likely a loose connection.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Well, this happened:
Second or third time I hit the trunk, this metal bracket crashed down onto the PF! I think it covers the LED strip in the backboard, but I canāt figure out how to reattach it. Help!
Sorry this has happened..
You will need a 1/4" nut driver.
First you will need to pull the playfield out and place it on it's service stands (yellow things on the bottom of the playfield).
The LED strip on the back of the playfield wall will have 3 screws, loosen them and the shield will slide behind the LED strip, retighten the 3 screws.. Should be good to go.
833-API-HELP > Barry
Quoted from CUJO:Question on Houdini Leg Levelers:
My Houdini came missing two of the leg levelers in the box.
I installed two new ones I had in my parts box until Barry at AP sent me out the brown levelers later on.
I noticed this weekend at a friend's house that his Houdini did not have the rear levelers screwed out at all.
They were screwed all the way in just like the front two.
I mentioned it to him and he said it was supposed to be set up that way, that the incline was already preset with all the
levelers screwed in all the way. That this info was in the directions or setup manual. I didn't see that anywhere.
This isn't right, is it?
That is correct.
6 degrees is where you want to be.
Quoted from CUJO:Were the lockdown bars built by Churchill as well?
Why didn't they just make the lockdown bar 1/4" shorter on the right for Houdini then to compensate, or whoever made the lockdown bars?
Thw lock down bar/front trim is the same lock down bar used forever. To retool the lock down bar would be far to costly.
Quoted from hoby1:Ok guys........ is anyone that has one abile to hit the two upper targets on the skill shot. I have been playing with the shooter and ball guide for a few hours to no avail.
This is the fix.
With a flat head screwdriver and a small rubber mallet.
Hit the flat rail right above the closest screw at the top.
Your goal is to move the flat rail closer to the post, when done correctly all targets can be hit.
The game never had a variable skill shot, therefor there was no need to insure all 3 targets could be hit. We have sense changed this policy moving forward, but all games out there might need a tweak!
CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH YOUR PLAYFIELD!!
IMG_20180507_082135776 (resized).jpg
Quoted from rosh:Barryās other comment about no āvariable skill shotā clearly he and production are not reading what has been on the white board in my office for months, then again, with my handwritingā¦
Key here is "with my handwritingā¦" That there would need some WW2 code breakers. Talk about enigma!
Quoted from CUJO:So if the Churchill cabs are say 1/4" to short width wise, doesn't that make it even a tighter fit for the STD size playfield to go up and down?
Or was this "incorrect width" problem just the outside dimension, not affecting the inner dimension using thinner wood?
Did this cause the inside width of the cabinet to be a little less wide too?
They used metric wood. They kept the same inside dim., therefore with thinner wood... the outside dim. was smaller, hence the appearance of the lock down bar being too big.
Quoted from greenhornet:has anyone concerned about Houdinis tight shots considered downsizing 1/16" ?
ebay.com link Ā» 50 1 Inch Paracord Monkey Fist Steel Ball Bearing Tactical Cores Balls
"smaller balls" could cause unforeseen problems!
i.e. mechanical switches might not work as intended!
Quoted from Ilushka85:barryj i submitted a ticket online for support and have not heard back from anyone. Also with the cabs being smaller is there a way to at least recenter the lock down bar mechanism so it is offset properly for the smaller width?
Didn't receive the ticket.. Will look into it.
We are in the process of having rubber inserts made for the inside of the lock down trim.
Quoted from Frogman:Barry - I had asked about the knocker and have the same question about the rubber inserts. Is AP planning to send these items to early customers that received machines without them or are you just adding these items to new machines off the line. I'd just like my expectations set either way. If the answer is no, I'll move on...Thanks.
The Knocker is an add on item.
The information on how to purchase the knocker will be given when they are ready.
As far as the lock down rubber, if that is what we do, we will make sure everyone gets them. Last I heard we were doing the rubber inserts, but that decision is above my pay grade.
1 week later
Quoted from hawkmoon:Reason I ask,is mine is coming end of this week,and I would like some kind of guide!!
All games ship with the Preliminary copy inside the cash box, the manual along with other important documentation can be found on our web site..
https://www.american-pinball.com/support/
Barry ;-/
Quoted from pinballinreno:Just got a call from JJ gexchange
My game with shaker, magic glass and art blades is being made next week.
I should have it a few days after he gets it.
I'm super excited about this !
At TPF 2018 barryj said it wouldn't be available until September! Wow API is really upping tbeir game!
gexchange and API, over the top service.
Can't wait
Ha.. It's better to deliver early than late.. Customer Service 101
Barry ;-/
Quoted from hoby1:R U sending buyers that have one a manual. All we got was a little guide
Not sure how we will be getting them out at this time, probably have a couple more weeks of work on it still.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is the printed manual going to be available for purchase? Do we get a coupon or discount for buying our games before its published?
I would be willing to pre-pay for one.
No it wont be a purchase item for owners.. Just don't know how we will be distributing them at this time.
Quoted from nwpinball:We are pleased to announce that the grand raffle prize at the 2018 Northwest Pinball & Arcade Show, June 8th-10th at the Tacoma Convention Center in Washington State, will be a brand new Houdini!
Finally a chance for me to own one!!
Sooooo.....
Engineering wasn't to happy with my last skill shot fix! Who would think hammering next to the playfield would be an issue!?
Now to introduce the new and improved skill shot fix, guaranteed to let you hit all 3 targets "if you have the skill" or something like that.
Call me if you need help 833-API-HELP
**You will need one 3/16" post rubber, which you should already have lying around**
B
Quoted from pinballinreno:If you win, send it to ltg ! He needs to rip it apart and tell us what secrets are inside.
Or just ask me, Barry the average
Quoted from pinballinreno:Nice fix!
Will all the games now on the line (mine, next week I hope) have this adjustment?
Its simple and elegant
Started last week making this adjustment on the QC line.
Quoted from GSones:I got my shaker motor installed this weekend and I really like the way it is incorporated into the game. The pop bumpers were already dramatic looking but this now puts them over the top. When installing the Shaker Motor, I found it a bit tough to mount the two screws that are located right against the left side of the cabinet until I remembered an old trick, put a tiny drop of super glue on the socket and lightly glue the fastener to it. This will keep the screw attached to the socket while you get it threaded. Afterwards, you just break it free (hence the TINY drop of super glue). Worked great for getting the two inside screws installed.
A suggestion for American Pinball would be to add a more detailed view in the installation instructions of the exact connection on the board where the Shaker Motor wiring harness plugs into. The view in the instructions was a photo taken from several feet away and wasnāt too clear. I was able to figure it out but it could have been a bit more detailed.
One additional idea for integrating the Shaker Motor into the game would be to tie it to the spinner shots (similar to how it is done with AC/DC). Maybe just during the waterwheel film mode if shaking for every spinner shot is too much.
These are just minor, nit-picky details and I really appreciate how hard the folks at American Pinball are working to sort out any small manufacturing and code adjustments. Keep up the great work.
I thought this was a couple good shots of the board and connections. Am I wrong? Let me know and I will get some better pictures.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I meant no offense, Barry - let me say again you guys are doing such a phenomenal job!
Maybe the black & white made it a touch harder to make out (although I think itās actually fine, as there was enough contrast in the pictures)
I was suggesting a photo like this, or better yet, the line drawing from the manual (or both!). Replace your top photo with this one, keep your second photo, and voila! Houdini does it again!
... by the way I probably shouldnāt admit to this in an online forum but I thought I had plugged into the right connector at first, turned on the game - the shaker went CRAZY!! I turned it off and re-checked my work and what I thought had said āDRV-2ā was actually āDRV-3ā!
No worries.. What is clear to me might not be to someone else, just looking for feedback. Maybe with the black and white pictures I will add a close up...OR would you rather be able to pull the color version off the web??? LMK
Quoted from Rferullo:If this is Service Bulletin #3 - what was #1 + #2?
3 is number 1, I never start anything with 1! We all have our little idiosyncrasies, especially in pinball!
;-/
Quoted from pinballinreno:Shaker should probably rumble and build before the catapult fires to draw attention to the event.
That is a 22 inch throw.. We don't want something in our control to cause a potential miss.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:One other issue I am seeing fairly consistently is the catapult shot detection - I hit the inner right loop shot, the VUK kicks it up, it rolls through the wire form and lands in the milk can catapult - then the game just sits there. And sits there.. and .. then ball search and the catapult then tries the throw. No dimming of the lights, just bam! Throw.
Anyone else have this? I have checked the switch and it works fine with my finger and the ball -
So what I have seen is that the switch works fine with your finger and even when you put the ball in the catapult, the switch registers every time....BUT, in reality when the ball leaves the VUK and rolls down the wire ramp to the lower catapult, the ball rolls into the ball cradle, which is different from dropping the ball into it. Your switch lever / actuator needs to be raised up a bit, that's all.
I'm here for you 833-API-HELP
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:One other issue I am seeing fairly consistently is the catapult shot detection - I hit the inner right loop shot, the VUK kicks it up, it rolls through the wire form and lands in the milk can catapult - then the game just sits there. And sits there.. and .. then ball search and the catapult then tries the throw. No dimming of the lights, just bam! Throw.
Anyone else have this? I have checked the switch and it works fine with my finger and the ball -
So what I have seen is that the switch works fine with your finger and even when you put the ball in the catapult, the switch registers every time....BUT, in reality when the ball leaves the VUK and rolls down the wire ramp to the lower catapult, the ball rolls into the ball cradle, which is different from dropping the ball into it. Your switch lever / actuator needs to be raised up a bit, that's all.
I'm here for you 833-API-HELP
1 week later
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Anyone add a bill acceptor to Houdini? Suggested make and model?
Also: Is there a PF protector for this game? The usual sites donāt seem to have one.
120 V with max 300 bill cassette.
Cliffy is on it.
Quoted from rosh:Not using one of my chips with production on that. Maybe Barry will
Not worth my time either... It's a big "who cares"!
Point being... we are shipping overseas, another HUGE milestone for API!!!
So with my layman's mentality I labeled the "thing" as a generator, cause it generates 230 V @ 50 Hz from 120 V @ 60 Hz.
But in reality it is actually a Frequency Converter... Thanks for all the concern regarding the equipment we use. We got this!
Quoted from WW2GURU:Barry!
My led strip died, started to flicker with flippers and then stopped. checked obvious connections but not sure where it terminates. All the other lighting appears ok. Also powered down and unplugged for about 20 mins with no change.
Check to make sure the black and yellow wires going to the LED Strip didn't get pulled out.
b4331806eef90fad3fb7962d48a76ae50e93c09a_LI (resized).jpgQuoted from Josho:I'm a semi-pro magician and I've just acquired a Houdini. Got it set up today and seems to be working great. But I do have a couple of questions.
1. There's a little bit of "play" in the front panel, even when it's locked into position. Is this normal?
2. I'm wondering about Attract mode. I have both Attract Sounds and Attract Music enabled, but I'm hearing almost nothing...no music, and a bit of speech maybe every 8-10 minutes or so. Is this normal?
I'm running the current version of the code -- v18.5.4.
Thanks for any information!
Josh
If you take off the front panel you will notice two screws underneath the panel. turn both screws CW a half turn, reinsert panel repeat until you are happy with it.
Attract sounds ... Machine will speak/read Houdini facts. On the monitor in attract mode every time a Houdini fact is shown the machine will read it.
Quoted from Josho:Barry,
Ah, you must be the Barry on the receiving end of the support number. Glad to meet you and happy to see you're here.
I will adjust the screws as you suggest. Now that's the kind of fix a newbie like me can manage.
Best regards,
Josh
Always glad to meet our customers, especially the ones I have talked to!
LMK if I can help
833-API-HELP
Barry
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Iāve been having a weird tilt bob issue ā it works just fine then, in play and test, it goes completely dead. And then, after a reset, works again for a bit. Iām mystified. Any ideas?
It is a code problem. To be addressed soon.
Quoted from rosh:My office doubles as a conference room, so most meetings I just stay at my desk and work on stuff not requiring much thought.
I hope to wrap up the code this week, depends on game 2 demands, then we will do testing here for a couple of days, then I'll look for a couple of beta testers. As far as shaker, off the top of my head not sure, hard to remember what is in this release vs the last, I'd have to check the list and that is not always 100% regardless. There are 40+ items on the change list, so not looking through it now
Your office is the conference room! HA
I will be speaking at ReplayFX.. If you are there stop on by, maybe I will be so nervous I will accidentally blurt out everything I know about Game 2.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:I had the pleasure of attending American Pinball's presentation at the NW Show last weekend.
Most memorable quote: "Oktoberfest will be our best game yet!"
... or something like that
Too funny! Game 2 will be "Kick Ass"! You can quote me on that.
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Kick ass as in Kick Ass?
As in, will kick your ass, put a grin on your face and make you come back for more!
Quoted from rubberducks:Just wear some lederhosen.
Why would I wear ledenhosen?
Quoted from pinballinreno:The real question is "Why Not"?
No Comment!
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Hi all - My shooter rod feels like it is binding on the housing a bit, it is affecting the skillshot I think. Is there anything special I should do? I donāt believe the rod should be lined, right? I can unscrew the housing and try to realign it but Iām not sure if I should do anything else ? Any ideas?
Try removing the washer from the the inside part of the shooter rod. rubber - spring - washer - cabinet. That is the tension / rubbing culprit.
Quoted from pingod:My issues are fixed,thanks Barry.
You the man
Pinched wires in the ball trough coil.
Everyone check to make sure the wires are not close there.
Later releases they rerouted the wires.
Just doing my Job. I am here to help.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Now with lederhosen!
No, No and Hell No... I don't do Lederhosen...
Quoted from rosh:Sorry you lost your score, Pull logs and email them to me so I can see what happened.
Josh...is that you?
Quoted from CUJO:Had my first reboot of the Houdini in intense 2 player game. I was in a Multiball, ball 3 I think. Just got another Houdini letter. A ball was in the scoop ready to come out and another went in on top of it. Game rebooted when balls tried to eject. My to be awesome score was DeStRoYeD!!!
Running the latest code: 5/4/18.
I would look around all the coils and see if a Yellow 12 Volt line is caught up in one of the coils.
Quoted from CUJO:Had my first reboot of the Houdini in intense 2 player game. I was in a Multiball, ball 3 I think. Just got another Houdini letter. A ball was in the scoop ready to come out and another went in on top of it. Game rebooted when balls tried to eject. My to be awesome score was DeStRoYeD!!!
Running the latest code: 5/4/18.
I would check around each of the coils to see if a Yellow 12 Volt line is caught up in a coil.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Update: I just canāt get the tilt working in gameplay after thorough scrubbing with alcohol and connection checks. It works great in test mode now, but the game will not tilt out. Itās at a competitive location so I need to get this sorted ā Iāll grab the log or whatever and open a ticket.
The tilt issue is a code issue.... It will be fixed in a subsequent code release.
Quoted from Rferullo:I've got a few questions / issues for @rosh :
- You can start Escape hurry-up in a Film mode but not in Theater mode. Why / why not?
- When in Trunk MB if you drain the 2nd ball and hit the Magic target shortly after with the remaining ball there is no ball save if the magnet shoots it directly to the outlane. Had this happen the other day. The first 2 balls drained and played both of the callouts for the drain - then I hit the Magic target while trying to get control of the remaining ball and it went straight to the outlane - no ball save.
- The inlanes / outlanes should always show your FILM progress. Several times there are lighting effects that black out the FILM letters and the ball is heading to a dark inlane. I don't know what letter is lit and what is not or don't have time to line up the correct letter cause I'm waiting for the lights to come back on.
- Anytime after ball 1 - press and hold start for 5 seconds and my game will reboot. Any reason why there is no restart option in the menu?
I checked, and you are correct. Holding the start button will end the game in a one player game.
Quoted from badbilly27:Anyone have suggestions on how to get the pop bumpers more responsive? Mine are very lethargic and one doesn't want to fire unless rocket shot into. Reminds me, need to reach out to support - missing tilt bob.
Fill out a request online https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/
Try rubbing paper between the contacts of the pop bumper switches.
Quoted from mcbPalisade:Look at how many inspections this got through, scary
Why is it scary? We buy the assemblies already made, unless it was acting up on the test line we never would notice this. Not something we normally look for!
But.... now we will!
2 weeks later
Quoted from CUJO:I would not have guessed that.
I thought it was a very nicely done Photoshop job till Rosh commented.
Rosh , I think you just spilled the beans! Nice feature!!!
Bring on that code!!! It doesn't have to be 110% perfect the first time ya know. <g>
That's just the way it goes.
BTW, are there any tech specs or educational literature about the P-Roc system, it's capabilities, the memory size, CPU, etc?
I'd like to learn more about this hardware platform.
How much memory is available for Houdini code for example and how much is currently utilized?
ReplayFX, I will be having a seminar at 1 pm on Saturday with Q and A, and the topic will be.... P-ROC.
Quoted from jkashani:Installed an external subwoofer (polk SPW 10) today and although it does sound better, it still lacks that boom I thought I would get. Any suggestions as far as dialing in for a better sound? Otherwise, the game is stellar just lacks in the sound department. Maybe a speaker upgrade will be available at some point.
Look at the amp and adjusted as needed. There is a crossover adjustment (bass sensitivity). That's were I would look first.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Not "Pinball Techs in Lederhosen" ?
HA... Maybe.. I aim to please!
Quoted from rosh:You pretty much have to adjust this when adding a sub.
Yes you do. Thanks for informing me.
PSA
If you are having trouble and or need parts fill out a ticket
https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/
I am here to help, email me at [email protected]
PSA
If your gate(s) break contact your purchasing distributor for a replacement set.
The black foam pads are the lower speaker grill covers Here is the link for installation. http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Speaker-Grill-Installation.pdf
IF... You run into problems and need help..Feel free to call/text me 224.422.3191 or fill out a service ticket here https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/
You can message me here and I will eventually see it, or you can email me at [email protected], I will see an email before I see a post here or a message here.
BUT REMEMBER...REGISTER YOUR GAME! https://www.american-pinball.com/support/register/
NO register
NO service
1 week later
For the people having issues with the catapult shooting right or left.
We have discovered that over time the catapult that was shooting fine, all of a sudden is shooting wide in either direction.
The fix for this condition is, disassemble the catapult arm from the fulcrum clean with rubbing alcohol or similar, reassemble and enjoy.
1 week later
Quoted from CUJO:Question for Barry or Rosh:
What gauge wire is used in the power cord that ships with Houdini?
Do you think a heavier gauge power cord would handle the wall voltage drops better for the catapult?
I know I had reset issues with my WCS94. I used a heavier gauge power cord and the issues went away for a year, well at least before the reset issue got worse due to the bridge rectifiers failing.
I installed a Kahr power fix daughter board to the CPU board and never had to fix the rectifiers after that.
A larger diameter power cord wire would not help the low power issue, low power is low power.
But on the bright side... We will be releasing some information about this in the near future.
Quoted from jrio101:Thanks Lloyd I'm having a problem with my Houdini and can't figure it out. Turns on and the lights come on but both screens are blue. Tried reinstalling code and it does nothing but pull logs. Any suggestions?
Did you send the logs in to Josh? That's the first step to fixing your problem.
Quoted from jrio101:Yes I did that yesterday
Logs show bad install. (could be a bad download or a bad USB stick) (some USB sticks do not work right)
This is what you need to do.
1. Remove the code downloaded from our web site on your computer.
2. Download the code again https://www.american-pinball.com/support/updates/
3. Get a different 4GB or bigger USB stick, format to FAT 32.
4. Move folder from computer to USB stick
5. Reinstall on the Houdini.
6. Enjoy
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:My catapult is fine, but I've noticed a (very) few issues where the ball is not recognized. Could very well be a switch issue, but it started *right* after I updated. Once in the catapult itself, and once in the stage where I shot the ball during the disappearing Elephant trick. Just sat there for 45 seconds and finally did a ball search... it found the ball - and of course I drained!
Check the switch.. I have seen many that have come loose or have become miss-adjusted. To check the switch action put the game in switch test and use a ball, drop the ball and also gently place the ball in the catapult cup. I have seen where the dropped ball registers fine...but the gently placed ball does not!
Quoted from PhantomO:On the trunk catapult, I'm wondering if there is a way to adjust the throw left or right other than coil settings. Can the arm or whole mechanism be shifted slightly? Being plastic, you cant permanently bend the catapult arm.
There is no left right adjustments.. I have had people tell me they took a Dremel to the mounting plate and notched out the holes so there was left and right adjustment.
Can not say to do it.. But
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I think it was a fluke it worked fine after the one time. Is it possible itās a code issue? More likely mechanical I know but itās literally only happened one time since I (months ago) adjusted the same switch
Anything is possible. Especially in pinball.
Quoted from Nepi23:I have to turn to you guys on this one. This looks like a self-inflicted problem, which I seem not to be able to sort out.
We carried Houdini downstairs yesterday (in three pieces: playfield, backbox, cabinet). Everything seemed to have gone well - there was only a minimal amount of wires to remove to get the parts separated. I guess it is worth to mention that I also installed "poor man stadium lights", but they are powered separately from outside power source.
Anyway - now when I start the game, the first ball drains all of a sudden, without any explanation. The second ball starts and soon shoots another ball in the shooter lane. Also soon the balls drain. Also I noticed when the ball goes to the theatre and it goes under the playfield, the up/down post on the left started banging - instead of any diverter mechanism under the playfield. And I noticed that after the milkcan shoot a ball in the trunk, it did not move from there and was stuck, but the game behaved better after that - no more sudden drains of the subsequent balls.
There is something fishy going on, but even though I check the connectors in the cabinet that I had removed (4 to the left side of the cabinet, three to the playfield + VGA), they seemed fine. I guess there is nothing to check regarding the computer in the backbox, there was only 2 usb-connectors, hdmi and vga-cables to remove there.
I attach also a pic of the switch-test, should it be of any help in determining the problem.
Thanks for any help!
[quoted image]
FYI, American Pinball pays me to help game owners. ([email protected] 224.422.3191 voice or text)
Left lock 2 is showing a ball. adjust, fix or replace that switch
American Pinball has been notified about some playfields showing excessive wear around the right side scoop.
I want to stress that increasing coil strength has side effects.
If you start to see unusually fast playfield wear stop playing your machine and contact us immediately.
Our Engineering Department has reached out to Cliffy to make a new scoop protector that would cover the excessive scoop wear.
We recommend everyone keep their coil settings as close as possible to the default value. We also recommend installing a set of Cliffy's
American Pinball uses the best materials and methods to produce our playfields, but remember a steel ball is no match for a wood playfield. Clean your playfield often and check your pinballs often for rust and nicks, replace them as needed.
If you have any questions or concerns please reach out to me.
Quoted from PhantomO:A question on the 3-ball lock under the ramp on the left: When a ball gets locked there, the trunk jackpot value is increased. But I never have more than one ball locked there at a time. When I send a second ball into the lock, the first ball is always immediately released. I've never had 2 balls stay locked, never mind a third. I don't think this is the way it is supposed to operate. Appreciate any details about this, thanks! barryj
Well you are correct about the 2 balls never being there let alone 3 balls. The thought on that is... it would be interesting to have the balls come from different places..Kinda magical, but if the 3 balls were right there you would know where they are coming from.
Hope this helps!
Quoted from pinballinreno:The manual says that with all the leg adjusters all the way in should be 6.5 degrees, early in the photo copied manual that came with the game.
It could be wrong but the game plays pretty good for now at 6.4 degrees.
What are your flippers set at?
I adjusted my flipper power so that a clean stage alley shot goes perfectly into the stage.
Default power the ball would graze the pop bumper and fail to make it to the stage.
Also a weak hit to the the ramp from the left flipper drops into the hole and a clean shot goes all the way around.
I think this is how it's intended to work.
That is a typo... Should be at 6 degrees.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Left flipper collapsed during 5 ball mb.
Also right flipper collapsed twice during straight jacket escape.
Similar conditions, very hard hit off a seance target rebound.
During multiball.
Wall voltage at 119v
It surprised me.
I haven't seen a flipper collapse or fail to hold on other games.
It really might be necessary to install EOS switches if it cant be handled in the code.
I mean, that's what there for right?
I hear that someone has installed EOS switches please PM me with the details.
Go to menu>adjustments>standard Turn on Flipper Power Hold
Should be the solution for your problem
Quoted from mbwalker:Resurrecting a slightly old post about subwoofers. I printed the amp manual, but one thing that's not clear...I assume the sub needs to be powered, not just a speaker?
Must be powered.
Houdini owners with Interior Art (Blades), it is possible to use the protectors and lift the playfield without damaging the Interior Art.
Regardless if you use the protectors or not, before you lift the playfield visually inspect both playfield edges for any toys or ramps that might have moved and might be able to scratch the Interior Art
IMG_20180829_085752919 (resized).jpgIMG_20180829_085802382 (resized).jpgIMG_20180829_085804320 (resized).jpgQuoted from Lysurgeon:How the hell do balls get stuck underneath the upper catapult? It had happened twice.
There is tight clearance between the subway and catapult.
There are three 1/4" screws on the subway, left side of the catapult. Loosen each of the three screws by 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn.
Problem should be solved.
I'm back from the Holiday..
Any problems needing attention?? [email protected] or 224.422.3191 voice or text.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:That's only step #1, right?
Goota click on it.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Its ok for Rosh and Barry take weekends off.
The servo must likely has built in "Stops".
Most likely mechanism specific.Its ok to email Barry or open a ticket over weekend.
I was at the CLEPIN Show in Cleveland over the weekend, working my magic 
Great little show, I recommend it to everyone!
There is no "over-volt" or "over-current" sensor on the stage.
We set up soft limits with a Servo programmer. The soft limits are before the actual hard mechanical limits.
With the new code you can actually go into the menu and set the soft limits in the game. We have not to this point (at least that I am aware of) tried this, but in theory you should be able to replace a bad servo and program the soft limits with out a servo programmer.
If I get a chance I will try this and report the findings.
Clarification.. We have used the Stage program mode within the game itself, but, the servos were already programmed with the Rev programmer.. In theory it shouldn't matter, but if the servo soft limit isn't set 100% correctly, the servo will die a fast and horrible death.
Quoted from MightyGrave:Also there is a programmer for the servo.
Hope AP can sell them cheaper to us as revrobotics (for 30$) do, as a spare part.
That is what we pay for them.
Quoted from PhantomO:Is this cleaning to correct height of throws or left-right aim?
Left and right wide throws. Up and down is coil setting
Quoted from Ballypinball:Which one of you AP guys plucked the short straw to head to Australia?
I'm working it.. Not sure as of yet who will be going!
Quoted from MightyGrave:Hey guys,
so my Houdini works now on the latest Code.
Also the whole theater works fine.
Thanks to Barry and the AP-Team for Support us!!!
During the game, I was able to observe three phenomena:
1: Catapult shot
Coilsetting is 27 ball goes strong right next to the trunk.
Coilsetting is 26 ball goes right in front of the trunk
I put on new washers to the coil and the arm of the catapult so there is now no movement to left or right.
Any idea how to fix this? - Or can some share a picture of this lower catapult and how it is adjusted?
2: Upper Vuk and Scoop Coil strengh varies during game
Coilsetting is UpperVuk is 8
Coilsetting is Scoop is 6
Sometimes it need 2-3 attempts to get the ball back to the game. Sometimes the first attempt works perfect.
It seems like the voltage is going down....
3: Trunkmultiball - left flipper spongy
During trunk multiball the left flipper lost the power for a a few milliseconds and dropped.
Then it worked normal till the next ball lands on it.
Enabeld "AutoBoost" but didn't solved my problem.
During the seance-multiball it worked flawless.
Hope you can help me to enjoy the game!
Thank you
The left / right movement on the catapult arm doesn't effect the throw.. What effects the throw is a dirty fulcrum. Take it apart and clean it, your catapult problem will be gone. Here is the link http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/CATAPULT-THROW-ERROR.pdf
I will look into other issues you are experiencing.
Quoted from PhantomO:barryj Should we clean the parts with alcohol or?
You can. I just wipe the rod and hole and reassemble. I have also used a light coating of 3 n 1 oil as well as applied pinball wax to the pivot point. I have noticed no significant advantage in the short run in adding lubricant. I am sure in the long run it will be a detriment.
Quoted from MightyGrave:Quick questions:
I want to change some of the GI-Bulbs. Which voltage does the GI use? 5V or 6,3V.
I have a lot of Comet 6,3V pinball bulbs - can I use them?
Also I want to change the LEDs of the Spotlights (Trunk, Stage) are they 12V?
Hope you can help me.
Thank you and best regards
G.I are running off of 5V
Spotlights are 12V
1 week later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Congrats to American Pinball again!
Isnt the big show in a few weeks Wayne?
That kinda looks like Barry hiding back there?
Magical for all the owners in Oz!
Well I am working the D Man to go over in December.
Quoted from Ballypinball:Hope Not is Dec 1st and 2nd
But time flies, Its October soon so maybe a Fest will Head over
Well I am working the D Man for a December visit...
Quoted from Nepi23:Need a little help here guys - I installed the playfield protector and noticed that one connector is loose. Should I connect this to the left or right connector in the picture? I will attach two pictures, one is close-up and the other taken a bit further away, so you will know which board's connectors I am referring to. Thank you for any help!
[quoted image][quoted image]
UMMMM....RIGHT Connector
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:AP... will these new power supplies be in the future games?
I've been on the fence with this purchase, primarily because of the power issues discussed.
Thanks
Kerry
Oktoberfest will have a brand new redesigned power supply!
Quoted from mbwalker:BarryJ,
The power supply upgrade: Will this also address the lower catapult inconsistencies related to line voltage?
Yes it will address all low voltage problems.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The new 750 watt power supply will not add power if your wall voltage keeps going low.
For that you need the variac and set it 1.5 volts above your lowest power level.
I set mine to 118.5 volts.
Then I adjusted all the settings in the game.
If the power drops a little the game plays fine. If the power goes up, the extra voltage is shrugged off.
The 750 watt power supply will however give you more power to run more things in the game simultaneously. Like magnets and shakers, without running our of power.
So you need it also.
The new power supply isn't in addition too. It will take over the 48V duty. It has built in PFC (power factor correction) ie if your input voltage goes down the output corrects itself to stay at 48V.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Barry, I saw a 1000-48 supply on jameco.com, the 750's bigger brother.
Is 750 enough power?
In my PC experience, power supplies lose power over time as they wear.
Would it be better to just get an even bigger supply to future-proof my game?
We have tested the 750 watt (15.6 Amps) for months with NO problems.. If you want the 1000 watt go for it.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:This is designed as a bridge so to speak.
This power supply will provide another 6 amps of continuous flow.
Thus, yes, more than enough power flow. The game only needed about 3 amps more. In fact this probably overkill adjusting for the shaker as well.
There also would be no need for a variac with this extra power, this would make up for low wall voltage.
This power supply is an amazing fix for the game.
Kudos again to American pinball. This has been in the works since almost April, at least on paper. So this should do the trick.
Shaker motor also not an issue, more than enough power now.
Eric, We scrapped the add on power supply idea and went with the SMPS for various reasons. This is not a bridge, it is a solution.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Shipping was not included on my order for this.
And no mention of any credits for future orders.
Barry, How do I get the $150 credit?
Code for the $150 will come in the box
Quoted from Nepi23:Can the same power solution be used by customers in EU? Is the free shipping applicable also in case, where delivery should be to EU?
Not releasing it overseas yet, price will be more to cover the added shipping. The 48 V P.S. is auto ranging, so it will automatically switch the input to 230V.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Personally I still think you need EOS switches. The game just doesn't know if a flipper got knocked down.
It happens mostly during multiball if 3 fast moving balls hit a flipper at the same time.
API might have a kit on the horizon. It's very easy to install them.
From scratch it took me 20 mins.
I guess I could make up some kits if API doesn't want the hassle.
EOS will be available at the store soon if not already!
Quoted from MightyGrave:This looks good.
Is there currently a coordination with European distributors how to work it the way with the Meanwell RSP-750-48?
A solution for us european customers through the distributor and AP would be great.
Will also the Menwell RSP-500-48 work? It is much cheaper in europe.
No it will not work ( Meanwell RSP-500-48)
Checkout this bad boy right here
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-work-shirt
Work Shirt (resized).jpgSo...
If you go to buy the power supply you will be charged shipping, this is a Shopify standard. To get the free shipping use the code HOUDINI (all caps) to get the free shipping.
IF you already bought the power supply and paid for shipping, we will refund that.
I really appreciate the support we have been shown on this!
I was really thinking this was gonna be a s@*t storm!!!
THANK YOU!
Quoted from MightyGrave:Changed my GI to warm white - and wow the game looks much better now.
Quick question, which voltage is used for the led stripe?
Want to change it for warm white
[quoted image]
On the back of the playfield.. 12Volts
Quoted from PhantomO:Found this under the Houdini apron. I wonder what 11/16 signifies?
[quoted image]
Joe and Jim Nov 2016
WOZ and Hobbit before Houdini
Edit* JFB Jeff Bush the Artist
1 week later
Quoted from rosh:Neither of these statements are accurate
This is my first game with joe and Jim was not yet at American pinball when the playfield was designed. But our names do start with J
Only can go by what I am told.....
Quoted from PhantomO:Somehow I can't navigate to this page from the API site. It is where all the good stuff is. If you are having trouble too, bookmark this https://store.american-pinball.com/products/
I know..
Click on the store tab, at the top center click on "All Products".
Then the sweet stuff is there.
Quoted from HOOKED:Barry tell those boys to chop chop on the knockers.
Ordered my power supply and I would love to get a knocker with my credit.
Will do..Those slackers! Ha
1 week later
Quoted from Rferullo:Barry - I did not see any code in the box. I double checked and nothing that looks like a website store code.
What should I do?
Thanks,
Rob
You didn't get a little piece of paper with a QR code on it? That had your code on it.. For any reason it is lost, email me at [email protected] with your name and s/n of your Houdini and I will email you your code!
Quoted from bobukcat:Any ETA on the knocker kits being back in stock, I'm ordering the Power Supply and would like to use my credit for that and a shaker kit.
Beginning of November they should be available.
Quoted from rubberducks:I think they would have announced it or there would have been photos.
They said they were working on 2 or 3 different designs at PinBurgh.
The Tilt Topper topper is good, but I don't think it has anything to do with them.
Maybe the project got canned or they're not ready.
We were selling it at expo. I believe the price is $235.00 Comes with mounting hardware and external 12V power supply. We should have it on our web site today.
Topper (resized).jpgQuoted from Audioenslaved:Has it been raised that thereās no indication of where the ball is going to be released from after it being staged either on the left, or the scoop or being flung from the trunk. I find that a little frustrating.
That is how it is intended... Where will the ball appear from?...Magic!
Quoted from mcbPalisade:Does anyone know if new Houdini machines are now equipped with the better power supply? Tnx
If so, will you be buying one?
Quoted from mcbPalisade:No. Not my cup of tea. Didn't even play the one in Banning. I heard from others that it wasn't adjusted right (the total content of this thread now, eh?). I didn't have a coin door key to try to tweak it to play "right". So I played the other 536 pins & Battlezone of course.
I know it's not "your cup of tea", just trying to figure out why you are so interested in bashing Houdini at every turn, eh?
As for the adjustment factor, Houdini is a total package game, deep rules and a "total" customizable playfield via solenoid adjustments, now throw in the 22" catapult shot (longest ever on a pin) and yes you need to give the table some attention.
Quoted from mbwalker:Barry,
Is the topper switched on when the pin is turned on?
No the Houdini topper uses a separate 12 volt supply.
Oktoberfest will have an integrated Topper that will switch on and off with the game and maybe turn on and off in game play (we have that ability).
Quoted from Nepi23:Thanks - can you Barry please confirm?
That is correct... This is the switch.
Quoted from mcbPalisade:There are people here who love this machine in spite of all the time they spend tweaking it, I'm just in the other camp. Fair, yes?
Also the ball throw was previously listed as 20" but has grown to 22". Feature inflation - maybe you measure diagonally now like TVs
Perhaps it was cold out during the first measurement.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Regarding Barry, Josh and API:
They have been AMAZING!
The level of professionalism, detailed help and humor has made them among the best (if not the best) start-up company in the business. The games are solidly built and beautifully crafted with enticing art and imagination.
You dont get a "cookie cutter" rehash of an old game or theme with these people. You get a unique experience that's above par.
I honestly believe they are on a vertical trajectory to be the among the best.
It has been an absolute joy to be a part of their endeavor as a customer.
Houdini is a wonderful exciting deep game that always brings me back to experience it over and over again.
Oktoberfest looks like pure FUN! I cant wait to play it at TPF.
Thanks guys for a great experience.
I can say from all of us here at API, Thanks for the kind words.. Pinball manufacturing is certainly a roller coaster ride, lots of ups and downs. No pun intended. But we are ALL dedicated in what we do and always looking to improve and push the boundaries of pinball.
ATTENTION!
Houdini is now in it's final phase of production, 45 more games until we switch the line over to Oktoberfest...
If you have been waiting to get your Houdini, the time is now. Contact an authorized distributor and buy it now!
Quoted from GSones:Barry,
Just curious but what will the total production number be for Houdini?
That is some "top secret information". Maybe we will release that number at a later time, but either way, it isn't my place to say.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Wow - does "final" mean final forever (no more Houdinis will be made after these 45) or just final for the time being?
We never said it was limited to some number, so that could be an option down the road, but at this time, we want to concentrate on bringing new products to market.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I hope the code is going to be polished up for a few more updates. It seems good but still a bit rough.
Also I hope that special parts like stage mechs and playfields will be available for a good long time.
We gotcha covered. I believe Josh is gonna release an update within the next couple weeks and I am sure there would be at least 1 more update down the road.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:How do you determinate the serial numbers of machines? Is it random?
It was an encrypted mess... You need an enigma machine to figure it out.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Houdini knocker sold out again...?
The credit slip is burning a hole in my pocket !
It will be up this Friday or next Monday.
Quoted from keys88:Can anyone tell me how to buy the newer version of the power supply? Thanks. I canāt find it on the website.
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-power-supply-upgrade
Quoted from GSones:I checked my Houdini stats yesterday and since mid-May I've got 1480 games on my home-use Houdini. I got to wondering if this was more, less or about average with everyone else.
Looking ahead, when will API (or someone else) start offering a rubber kit for Houdini. I probably have enough extras laying around but I like the convenience of having everything in one package.
We will have a rubber and a flipper rebuild kit shortly.
1 week later
For all those who ordered the Knocker Kit. The installation guide is now available on our web site.
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf
Follow the link or double click on the image.
The initial kits did not include the 4 Amp Slow Blow 5X20 mm Fuse.
Email me at [email protected] and I will send you one.
Thanks
Quoted from zahner:Ha! The addition of the last step to the new instructions - basically "add fuse" - kind of explains the dead knocker.
On an unrelated issue - eager for the firmware update - had an awesome game, managed to crest 5 million points and avoided going into Master Magician, only to have it reset mid-ball. But I did happily and finally get to play the mode [can't remember what it's called] where one plays all the movie modes at once. Have no idea how I started it. Also got caught in a random multi-ball that seemed more like a glitch. Best of all was an awesome run of Man From Beyond.
What a great game and, in my humble opinion, one of the better pinball games ever produced.
Thanks Barry
Yes, that's why it isn't working.. My mistake, sorry about that.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Is it wrong I want to install knocker in the Head upper Left side, similar to Bally/Williams Wpc era?
Is there a reason AP put it in lower cabinet?
Barry, do you feel this would hurt the Back glass or perhaps any other head damage?
You can do anything you want Eric, we just put it in the main cabinet because of ease.
Quoted from CoPinfan:Has anyone tried to mod the new power supply with quieter fans (ala stern PS fan mod)? Looks like there are two fans. They aren't as loud as the stern fan, but it would be nice if they were a little quieter.
I would be very careful with modding those fans as you will void the 2 year Mean Well warranty and our 90 Day warranty.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Another quick one Barry.
Will Oktoberfest come with a Knocker?
Nope... It will have art blades and the new redesigned power supply.
Quoted from PinMonk:Mean well over-engineers their power supplies pretty well. With the Stern power supplies, the failsafe overheat cutoff is almost 40 degrees hotter than I've ever seen one get at its hottest with quieter fans (with a continuous ranging dual-probe temperature monitor). Yes you will void your warranty, but unless you're a moron, you can safely put a quieter fan in. I don't know what that is as I haven't done it because the Houdini one isn't nearly as annoying as the Sterns I've done here (warranty also void doing this):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-stern-spike-noisy-ps-fans
Like I said... You can do anything you want, but don't be mad when it fails and it wont be replaced under warranty.
Quoted from John_I:OK, so I am trying to fix a Houdini for a friend. It was being used at the Free Play Florida show and not sure what happened, but now it will not power up properly. The screen comes on and says "No Input" and the flayfield lights up solid but nothing else, then the screen goes black after no input for a while.
Any place to start looking? I don't have a manual either. I've gotten to like playing this game and really want to fix it.
I can help! [email protected] 224.422.3191
Manual http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf
If you need information on the game, a good place to look first
https://www.american-pinball.com/support/
There are documents before and after the FAQ section.
Quoted from PhantomO:Does anyone's bottom right pop bumper wiggle when they shake the machine? This is the only one of the 3 that does, so I wonder if it needs tightening. I has the biggest padlock on top, so maybe tnis just a factor of being top heavy.
They come lose. throw some loctite on it also.
Quoted from Thrillhouse:Hi all I'm having some issues with my game and would appreciate any help anyone may have -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/houdini-opto-issues#post-4689029
email call or text
[email protected]
224.422.3191
I hate to do this.. but there is an update to the knocker installation..
It seems the plunger in our test game is longer than the actual plunger that shipped with the Knocker Kit...
Therefore the distance from the striker plate to the front of the knocker coil should be 1 3/16 inch. I have updated the installation instructions here and on our web site to reflect this.
If you have already installed your knocker and it is working THERE IS NOTHING ELSE YOU NEED TO DO!
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf
Sorry for any inconvenience,
Barry
Knocker Installation.pdfQuoted from pinballinreno:Barry, you need to add a picture for the black/brown wire installation into the wall-nuts on the instruction sheet, for the ones that have the upgraded power supply.
There is some confusion as to which installation that one is doing from looking at the pictures.
Done. On the web sit http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf
Quoted from drummermike:Just put in the knocker. Very easy with the new power supply. Love those wall-nuts.
Awesome... I knew someone would like them besides me!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Excellent.
Easy for me to understand now.
Thanks Barry!
Sorry.. I try to get a different POV when I do these by having someone else proof them, as I have a hard time sometimes with, will someone else understand this.
Quoted from John_I:Just getting back to working on the non-booting Houdini. I've checked all of the connections in the backbox and basically everything in the cabinet and bottom of the playfield. The game simply stopped working and won't boot. Here is a video that shows all of the boards and LED colors and symptoms:
I can help.
224.422.3191
[email protected]
1 week later
Quoted from zahner:Yeah, I fiddled with that too.
I tried two ways to hook it up.
1. + & - from the speaker into the right subwoofer + & - connectors.
2. then I ganged both the + and both the - connectors from the amp and hooked up to + & - of the speaker
Make sense?
On those amps there are 4 connection points for the sub. but in reality you only need 2 (as there are 2 pairs for the same side +-) I have hooked it up before with both wires on the same polarity.
Quoted from rosh:Early, no, I believe it was installed to evaluate relative to inclusion in Oktoberfest.
Rosh receives a gold star for that answer.
Quoted from zahner:Hi again Barry - Yeah, that's what I did, but nothing but the rumble/pop when the pin is turned on. Adjusted sub volume all the way up and tried the spectrum of crossover - nothing when the game is going. Checked continuity from the speaker lug to the the amp, and it is fine.
Perplexing...
Is the wire from the voice coil attached to the wire lug?
Did you try a different speaker all together, doesn't have to be a sub, just keep the volume low.
Quoted from mbwalker:BarryJ...bump.
Email me [email protected] and I will send a wiring table and what ever else I have
3 weeks later
Quoted from bobukcat:I meant to ask Barryj that question multiple times at Pincinnati but we were always talking Ocktoberfest and I forgot. Based on the color I think they are actually the Perfect Play ones from Pinball Life: https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-flipper-rubber-standard-size.html
I have purple ones from Titan on my MM and their purple is much darker, which happens to match MM extremely well but is too dark for Houdini's purples.
Product ID: PBL-700-0001-00-XX
PerfectPlayĀ Silicone Flipper Rubber - Standard Size
1 week later
Sorry for the late response...Lots going on at the factory!
In regards to the 18.12.12 update problems.
We initiated an OS change in a previous update (don't remember which one) but that allowed us to include a date in the update name. This in theory will help with the duplicate code problem ((houdini-gamecode(X).pkg), where x = a number)). The only problem is you need to have the OS update package already installed for this new name format to work....
If you tried to install the new code 18.12.12 and all that happens is the logs are copied to your USB stick and the new update was not installed.
1. check your USB drive to ensure it is FAT 32 formatted and is at least 4 GB in size. (hopefully you are using the same USB stick you used to update Houdini
before).
2.Go to the file name on the USB drive and rename the file.
Original name houdini-gamecode_18.12.12.pkg
Renamed name houdini-gamecode.pkg
Try to install again.
If it doesnāt take try a different USB drive at least 4 GB formatted as FAT32 with the same altered file name.
1 week later
Quoted from kdecgp:I swear there was a manual stage calibration where you could set the curtain with the flippers in the service menu but I can't find it anymore. Also what exactly is front eject from stage? Will it shoot the ball out when you start a mode? Is it just for certain modes?
Manual stage calibration is found in utilities in the test mode.
If you do not see it, you have a really old code version. UPDATE NOW.
Quoted from BarryJ:Manual stage calibration is found in utilities in the test mode.
If you do not see it, you have a really old code version. UPDATE NOW.
NEVER MIND!! I was just informed by ROSH that the curtain adjustment has been removed from the public domain..
2 weeks later
Quoted from triggur:I have no idea what happened tonight... a group of 4 leaguers were playing their game on software version 18.12.12. A series of problems manifested (sorry, I wasn't there at the time, so I'm working from anecdote here, being as clear as I can):
1) Player 1, ball 3 was in the middle of a (seance?) multiball, a ball wound up stuck in the trunk catapult, which didn't recognize it being there (the switch appears to work fine). The player then lost one of his two remaining balls naturally. He started a different multiball to see if it would return the captured ball into play, but it didn't so he drained the active balls deliberately to end the turn. Eventually the game ball searched and unstuck the trunk catapult's ball and he played that ball out.
2) A subsequent player had his flippers go dead in a multiball after one of them drained.
3) Eventually the game was over and player 1 entered his initials for a high score. Immediately after he finished, the game flashed a single blank score (picture below) as the last game, and they never got to write down their scores-- they're gone.
I dumped the logs but I have no idea what to make of what is apparently base64-encoded stuff?
Any help appreciated![quoted image]
Send to [email protected]
Quoted from fxdwg:I know im a bit slow to the PS upgrade thing. but I am finally going to order it. however the free shipping code isn't working. is AP still offering free shipping on these PS's?
thanks for the info.
E mail
1 week later
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:What is everyone using on there playfields for wax? Ive got a little ball swirls going on and just want to be proactive.
This is what we use here at the factory. We buy it on Amazon.
WAX (resized).jpgQuoted from MMP:The Mist N Shine... is that something you all would recommend putting on before, or after waxing?
I've got another game broken down for cleaning, and used naptha to remove the existing playfield wax. Kind of curious about the Wizards product.
Wizard is the wax we use on the playfield before they go out. They playfields are clear coated so you really do not need a thick wax base to protect the playfield, BUT using a heavy carnauba wax WILL NOT HURT the playfield. So use what ever wax you prefer.
I personally use GEMINI CP-100 PLAYFIELD CLEANER & POLISH to clean my playfields and plastics.
Just food for thought, but like I said, use what ever you like.
Quoted from BarryJ:Wizard is the wax we use on the playfield before they go out. They playfields are clear coated so you really do not need a thick wax base to protect the playfield, BUT using a heavy carnauba wax WILL NOT HURT the playfield. So use what ever wax you prefer.
I personally use GEMINI CP-100 PLAYFIELD CLEANER & POLISH to clean my playfields and plastics.
Just food for thought, but like I said, use what ever you like.
Just to clarify... Wizards Mist N Shine is a wax free product... I just call it wax, for those who care.
Quoted from wesman:So it's more an overall cleaner/polish? Hmm....so does that Gemini Polish contain any wax?
Could the same results happen using Sparkle?
No it is another no wax product
Sparkle could produce the same results... But I know for sure that Wizard and Gemini products will do no harm to your machine.
3 weeks later
Quoted from GCS2000:Just wanted to pop in and say Barry at AP is awesome. Contacted him about my stripped leg bracket and needing a new one. He got my Serial # and then dropped one in the mail to me. Got it today.
Thanks Barry and AP!
You're welcome.
Just doing what I do!
Quoted from LTG:The American Pinball people definitely love what they are doing. You see them at a show or at their company, they have a high level of love and excitement for their work.
I don't know if they give factory tours. When you see them at a show. Dhaval, Joe, Josh, Barry, Jim, Nirmal and his side kick, and maybe others I don't know. Talk to them and ask about their games.
You'll be glad you did.
LTG : )
We love giving tours!
Call to arrange your tour, 847.893.6800
Quoted from bobukcat:Does the price of the tour include 4 hours of playfield assembly work?
Well... If you would like to help on the line, we could accommodate that as well, but not a requirement!
1 week later
Quoted from PhantomO:Barry mentioned he went to 11 shows last year, but this year he's not traveling. Still good to see other API wizards at TPF. Maybe I'll lug the Houdini apron down for them to sign.
I have been taken out of retirement..
Looks like Dhaval wants me to go to a couple of shows.
Thinking I might go to Freeplay this year, last year had to cancel at the last minute.
Pinburg
Southern fried
Kalamazoo, Pinball at the ZOO
But I need to confirm these shows with team API.
Quoted from HOOKED:Sfge?
Correct
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Don't forget Golden State Pinball Festival in Lodi Ca May 17-19!!
I would like to go... But, I am looking at the dates more than anything.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Crazydaisy:Just wondered if Barry was away or uncontactable at the moment , have emailed twice over the last week about a current service ticket and have not received a reply ?
Thanks.
Have been sick.. No need to worry... I am still alive.
1 week later
Quoted from billsfanmd:Iāve called API. Sent in a ticket and texted. No replies yet
Sometimes I am unable to reply right away!
Quoted from sgorsuch:Holy Harry Houdini!!!
Not sure what is going on with the game, but It is acting like it has lost its mind....Oh no , possible AI.
Got home late last night, and played a couple games. No issues. Started the game today and it is unplayable. There is no animation at all- just very slow changes between scenes, and music starts and stops sporadically.Sometimes no sound at all, everything is lagging. I turned it off and back on waited for the game to boot up, but the same results every time. Reseated all the connections on the computer and display, and no change. I found an allen set screw and lock washer in the bottom of the cabinet. It was a coils stop set screw for the upper catapult. No obvious char marks anywhere at the power supply, that I could see
Any thoughts on the next course of action? I am tempted to install the latest code, but will wait to speak with Barry in the morning ,before I try anything else.
A little disappointed, but really only because I was hoping to try and improve my score and maybe successfully finish a film mode. The game is addicting for sure. Hoping it something simple, so the game can go on.
email me [email protected]
2 weeks later
Quoted from Nepi23:I had Houdini reboot itself today after the 3rd ball had drained and at the time the summary of the play was shown. The screen went black with "searching for signal" and then it reloaded the game. I noticed that the power supply was also giving more noise than usual at the time when game was rebooting. I am using the upgraded power supply. This is the second time this has happened when running the latest code.
Any fixes to this issue? I made a search with word "reboot", but that did not seem to offer explanations for this.
New power supply will have nothing to do with the re-booting issue as it is 48V. Your problem is on the 12V line.
Do you have and extra lights wired in or any Mods?
2 months later
Quoted from konjurer:Shake motor question. My shaker motor experience has been a nightmare from the beginning... power supply credit process, order process, unanswered emails from Nirmal, shipping mistakes, missing parts. Today I carved our some time for the "30 minute" install... which took about 2 hours of cursing and frustration.
Question 1 - I could not get the shaker installed in the direction that is in the kit instructions. Between the capacitor and the little nut I could not get a straight down orientation for my nut driver to get the bolt started (over the half dozen other tools I tried). Is there anything that is going to cause me problems with shaker rotated 180 (the wire and capacitor pointed towards the front of the cab)?
Question 2 - my cabinet is missing the threaded sleeves that goes into one of the 4 mounting holes. Do you think I'll be okay with just 3 bolts holding it in?
Sorry for all the problems you have encountered.
////////////////
On game 3 we are breaking from traditional pinball shaker location and we are moving it to a more accessible location.
Our shipping and receiving person has been replaced.
Nirmal is no longer involved with API day to day activities.
If your 3 shaker motor bolts are tight you will have no problems with operating with only 3 bolts.
Please call or email me directly if you need anything... We are still experiencing growing pains and we are trying our best to do right by everyone.
224.422.3191 [email protected]
Quoted from Tokkentakker:Mbwalker,
Thanks for info. I just double checked packaging and no luck. I will email Nirmal. Thanks.
Nirmal is no longer working with API on day to day stuff.
Email me [email protected] and I will help you out.
1 month later
Quoted from creech927:Has anyone else had issues with the small LCD screen on the playfield above the theater? Mine's gone out. Doesn't show anything (not on boot or anything else) Verified power at black/yellow lines going into display board 11.89vdc at the pins on the display board. I asked AP for assistance and they sent me a document to reseat the ribbon cable edge connector, which I followed and got nothing. Also reseated the video input cables. Is there anything else to try? It's on location and not earning.. :/
If you are still having trouble??
1 week later
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Yeah I emailed him letting know what Iāve posted in here and other things too
I am Answering your email now.
2 months later
Quoted from CoPinfan:Anyone else having issues with the sound. If I leave the game on for awhile, the sound will "shrink" and become tinny like if you've blown a speaker. Then after it's been off for awhile, it will be fine. I do have a powered subwoofer attached, so I'm wondering if that has something to do with it.
Check the connection between the computer, ground loop isolator and amp.. Pull out and re-seat. Should be good after that.
6 months later
Quoted from megaladon:rosh Iām not getting anything just plugging into DR5.[quoted image]
You need 48VDC to the Add On Board. That's the open 3 pin connector on the lower right side of the board.
That connector should come with the knocker kit.
Quoted from Videogod:Help! The threaded screw in the 3 3/8" bumper rod broke and American Pinball is not responding. I can't find any mention of this part in the Service Manual. Can I find this part anywhere else or rig something else to work?
[quoted image]
Buy them here
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-pop-bumper-toy-hardware
2 years later
Quoted from archimandrite:What have folks' recent experiences with AP customer service been lately? I emailed a question two days ago and followed up today. Am I wrong to think it's about time for a response?
With Dave leaving, not everything has been seamlessly switched over, not sure what email you used.
Email me directly with the question
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