1104 here. My left side orbit exit goes SDTM if it has any speed at all. Is it supposed to go to the left flipper? Can you describe the adjustment procedure a bit more, or does this warrant a call?

The game looks great.

Agree on observations on the leg bolts, it seems the hex wrench just barely seats in the top of the bolts, I was expecting it to seat much further down. I had quite inconsistent results with the trunk catapult when running multiple games from the same outlet. I did the initial calibration, but it was entirely inconsistent until I turned other games off. I would expect this will be an issue on location.

Thanks for all the hard work getting these out.

Is milkcan multiplier timed? I have advanced the multiplier only to have it drop back down to a lower value or disappear completely while still on the same ball. Not sure if this is a bug or feature.

Also curious if anyone sees the right flipper lose strength when magnets are activated. I tied turning on boost, but still see the issue.

Thanks

I'll try to pull logs next time to actually be helpful, but I have lost balls in the scoop and the upper lock during both seance and trunk multiball. Most often in the scoop during seance. If has to go to ball search to continue and kick the ball of out of the scoop. I did check and all optos looks to be in good shape.

This only appears to be the case the first time the 'status screen' appears. Once you get the screen and make a selection, if the screen appears on the marquee again, the game selects one for you.

Any plans to add ball save to the multiball catapult? I too struggle with the machine consistently making it, ranging from right on, too weak, or shooting left of the trunk once it seems the house circuit has gained back some amps. Hoping a more dedicated circuit in the house will improve it in the future, but ball save for now when it misses would make it less painful.

Thanks

I opened support ticket with AP. Posting here for visibility and hopefully to share resolution. Game has not been moved or updated so this is out of the blue. Visual inspection of everything does not reveal the cause - all cables appear connected and it appears most/all proc boards are lighting up.

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I have original power supply with added upgrade. Guessing p3-roc is middle board in cabinet. I don't have any lights. Looks like 5v is missing from power supply. I get 12v between ground and yellow wire, but .20v from red wire measuring on power supply. Any thing user serviceable in "Caution High Voltage" unit or suggestions? Can I grab 5v from switcher now that I have one installed?

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Thanks everyone. Amazon has buck converter directly from Daygreen for $9 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/Daygreen-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Reducer/dp/B07JHBYDGG Delivery times are just a few weeks out which is a bummer. Would love to hear from API if I can pull 5v from switcher at least temporarily...

I know the provided wal-nut if not great. I considered just using a wire nut, but everything is snug and working on that side for now.

USB cable is plugged in, this is definitely a power supply issue.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the support and quick troubleshooting advice. I put in an amazon order for the converter and will call Antec next. Whichever one gets here first wins!

My Houdini has returned from beyond! Antek sent me a replacement module. I will fix the dead module with the replacement buck converter that should show up today so I have a backup. That power supply is heavy! I removed the entire supply since you have to access the underside anyway. I agree that getting the thick stranded wires from toroid reseated is a challenge.

1. Power off and unplug game.
2. Remove High Voltage Cover.
3. Unplug power supply connector.
4. Loosen screws and pull out 5v/ground/12v wires. (red, black, yellow) I do not have 48v wires attached since I previously upgraded to switching power supply.
5. Remove 4 bolts that hold power supply unit to cabinet.
6. Lift power supply out of the cabinet. [Deceivingly heavy, probably 20 lbs. all by itself]
7. On the back/underside of power supply unit, remove 4 Philips head screws that holds the module in place.
8. Loosen screws and pull out the 2 Toroid wires from module. I found it easiest to pull the module out slightly for access.
9. Slot in the new module and reverse the steps above. Likely easiest to reconnect the thick Toroid wires while the module is not screwed in place.