Just in case anyone still needs to see the manufacturer’s hookup page

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A quick update for Houdini owners with the original power supply... API still has the 48v power supply upgrade available for $150 dollars, but will offer a full credit of that towards anything else in their store. Coincidently, the Side art blades and a true Knocker kit total $150. So for the $150 spend, you can be all three items!

Here’s my recommendation: go online and order the power supply upgrade, the EOS kit, and the coil performance kit. That’s about $215. (Try using the code promo END2020). Then after your order is placed, contact Kishan or Dave by email and have him generate your $150 credit code. Once you have the discount code, use it to buy the kicker and side blades for the price of shipping alone! (The credit code works after January 4th)

Format the usb stick Fat32, then write the file to it. The file name must be the exact one API has posted.

Try putting a blank usb stick in. It should try writing logs. If it doesn’t, your cable may have come loose from the J1900 computer box.

Hi all, waiting on a 250-game Houdini being delivered to me in two weeks, and trying to catch up on what to expect and what to do first. I am on page 110 of this thread of the 240 or so pages!!!)
Lots of learning and I think the game will have its quirks, but worth the trouble. That said, The flipper issue is curious because it SHOULD BE so straight-forward. I count four ‘fixes’ mentioned here that are involved and if implemented should resolve once and for all...

1) add the 48v additional regulated supply (API kit on order)
2) add the EOS switches using API kit on order
3) update firmware to latest version available next week (ready to download)
4) swap the flipper coils to the more traditional 11630’s in use by many other games with strong hold section. ( have two on order already)

Is is safe to say that issue will be gone if I do all of these.?

I purchased the capacitor kit as well, but did not see any mention of it connected with the flipper hold issue. Either case, I have that coming from API too...

Thanks!

Did you install the new power supply? The EOS switches? The Coil Power Capacitor board? Code won't likely help, since nothing in software will help a flipper stop collapsing if hit hard enough and the main windings are already unpowered. Remember, initially both coil windings are energized to move the flipper, but a millisecond later, ONLY the holding coil stays ON. There is no way for the software to know if the flipper is knocked down without the EOS switches, and the ability for the holding coil to keep the flipper UP during fast play decreases greatly when using only the original unregulated power supply.

The new regulated supply is a tremendous upgrade to the toroidal unregulated supply that comes in the machine. A regulated supply ALWAYS delivers 48VDC regardless of the input voltage to the pinball machine. That eliminates all of the hundreds of discussions in this thread about line voltage and variacs. A regulated supply such as this has enough amps to power all the activated coils, and the voltage never changes. Bottom line: If you are having flipper performance issues still, invest in the Upgrades shown above. (API sells the three items for about $210 today, and if you talk to Kishan, he'll provide the $150 credit which will entirely covers a knocker and shaker or a knocker and art side blades)

(Not recommended, but the DIY version is to find any quality 48VDC 600-750 watt or greater supply, and install it yourself. Then look in this thread on installing your own EOS switches which are quite common parts. You can also add a coil performance 10,000uf 63volt capacitor yourself too. )

The coil capacitor makes up for power losses incurred due to wiring. It is not a fix for a power supply issue per se, but when you are driving higher current to coils 5 feet or so away from the supply itself (with a few connectors in line), there are power losses. When multiple coils are activated at nearly the same moment, the wiring losses can be significant for a fraction of a second or more. The capacitor buffers that loss closer to the coil demand itself. That’s why the capacitor is mounted to the underside of the playfield (close to the coils) rather than just mounted next to the power supply in the cabinet.

Maybe a crazy question but has anyone drilled into the cabinet bottom to install a 6 or 8 inch woofer? Seems everyone wanting to add a woofer is going external, and I get the difference in sound, but it looks pretty easy to drill a round hole and add a pretty capable woofer like most other machines have built-in.

Crazy?

Just got in my power supply upgrade from API and it looks like they changed vendors. It is now an 800watt 48v supply made by Velika, model S-800-48

Not sure if this is better or worse than the Meanwell, but it visually appears to be a good quality supply... and the mounting tabs are now extending from the front and back, rather than sides which may make it easier to fit into the space next to the original supply.

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In the picture, You have essentially created a separate supply for each of the three voltages. That is a very common thing to do in other types of equipment when it is single device. You must tie all negatives together and also the chassis grounds together.

If I had a blank canvas for Houdini and needed an economical solution, I would buy two high quality supplies, each one of the right wattage to meet their needs: 1) a dual output +5 and +12 supply which are very common in the electronics industry. 2) a single output 48v supply which is also quite common these days as it is the voltage that Power-over-Ethernet devices require. I suspect the first dual supply would be something like a 250 watt device, and the 48 volt would be a 750-1000 watt.

That said, the power supplies don’t replace the close energy storage solution that API has introduced with the capacitor. The issue appears to be the amount of energy needed 5 feet away from the power supply itself. The flippers have 5 feet of wire and multiple connectors between them and the power supply. The 48v wire may be slightly undersized for the current draw and the controller connectors themselves add resistance, albeit very small. The wire and connectors cause no issues under single coil loads, but as the number of concurrent coils increase, I bet we are losing real power at the coil itself. I wish I still had a storage scope and could record what the actual voltage is at the flipper coils under heavy load. I suspect it’s below 40 volts based on what I am reading from owners.

I am not an expert with the Proc board from multimorphic, but I suspect Josh is wrestling with a third issue... pulse timing. While we all usually think of VOLTS as being the only measure of power at the flippers, the second aspect is actually how much CURRENT is available, which the new capacitor add-on attempts to store very close to the coils, but the THIRD portion is how MUCH TIME that energy is applied to the coil. How long is the pulse kind of thing. It’s not obvious but pulsing is how most light dimmers work. When you dim your kitchen lights, the voltages STAYS THE SAME, but the amount of time each pulse gets shorter. The result is your kitchen bulbs appear to dim since they are on for less of the time.

There is a whole set of discussions on the polymorphic website about using their PROC board with support of PWM (pulsed power). I think rosh even mentioned this approach/investigation last year as part of the possible flipper resolution. Not sure if he ever did that work after the Capacitor fix seemed to dramatically help.

I am thinking that the BLUE bank would be ideal to put on the original 48v unregulated. The BLUE bank is powering non-interactive coils so the 48v unregulated should work just fine.

Anyone playing with this approach?

I STRONGLY AGREE with this advice of caution. Playing with DISKPART on a windows machine is NOT for the un-initiated. It can wipe the system without blinking an eye. That said, I am also quite confused by the previous note (I think it was Josh) that a 'whole batch of new USB' drives had a formatting issue. I have never heard of a factory sealed NEW drive being configured with partitions incorrectly. I suspect that the NEW drives in question were opened by someone and some type of image written that created partitions.

Long story short: If you buy a factory fresh, SEALED package 8GB USB, and then FORMAT it to FAT32, I am quite sure you'll be able to COPY Josh's new PKG file to it.

And as a reminder, if the machine is currently running very old 18.8.5 gamecode or earlier, you will need to remove all of the date information from the filename before you write it to the USB drive. The file MUST be exactly this: HOUDINI-GAMECODE.PKG. If you are running a more modern code on the machine already, then the new file will be called HOUDINI-GAMECODE_19.4.7.PKG. Lastly, if the machine says that it is writing the LOGS to the USB within a few seconds of power-up, then you have likely used the wrong file name for your machine.

There was a late 2020 Beta release, and Josh will be packaging it for production release sometime 'soon'...

They do look like plastic protectors. I suspect someone planned to install them on top of the sling posts, between the top of the post and the bottom of the silkscreened plastic. They prevent the ball from cracking the plastic over time. Those plastics are harder to find over time, and become more brittle over time, so having protectors there sooner rather than later is a good thing. If these are intended to be plastic protectors, they will stick out from under the plastic by 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch or so. Any more and they are likely to be used for something else.

You can buy a whole set of custom Houdini plastic protectors from cointaker. These are more than just round washers. They are slightly oversized versions of the plastic pieces themselves. They also have a green or purple fluorescent tint which really adds a hint of color to the whole area.

The key is hanging inside the coin door. It allows you to lift the glass carefully, and remove the glass to access the Amplifier and lcd screen amongst other things mounted behind it. BE VERY CAREFUL PLAYING WITH IT. The back glass is, well, GLASS! That is a $250 mistake in the making if you are not careful.

Ok, I finally got my machine delivered. Serial #1251. (and it came with MagicGlass, the Shaker and Art Blades already installed). Haven't done any of the other setup and field-changes in hardware yet, but I have a box full of API stuff to put in it this weekend. I *DID* put in rosh 's firmware 19.12.30B last night just to watch it power up (and updating worked like a charm), so I played JUST ONE game just to see the coils fire. I does feel different than any of the B/W machines I have had, but it also is very intriguing and feels less frantic.

Even though I have been loitering for awhile, I guess I am now officially in the club and will offer more commentary as I get my hands inside the machine.

I already did!!! I read EVERY SINGLE POST in this thread (241 pages) so I know all about paper thin art blades and the really tight playfield/cabinet fit. Got my order coming from PBL today...

So sounds like a concensus to droop each flipper by 1/8" below the alignment dots, ideally coupled with the new power supply and performance Capacitor FCO (field change option) installation. Having just received the machine a few days ago, I have a weekend ahead of me to get these options installed/adjusted, and a long list of ALL the coil adjustments, etc. And I need to fix the pop bumpers spoons which have very little sensitivity right now.

My first priority for the coils is to put the new power supply in so that I have a steady supply, and then get the catapults dialed-in one-time. Everything else I will set to the defaults shown in the manual. (Which I sent the PDF over to FedexOffice and they printed on nice double-side heavy stock, with a color front page and clear front and back covers, coil bound for $28!!!!)

Thanks, will make setup even easier!

The EOS switches seem to have advocates and naysayers, and after reading 241 pages of comments on this thread, I see some rarely seen edge use cases where they might come in handy. Josh even went ahead and has written support for EOS into the main code. I purchased the PS, CAP and EOS switches as a set from API all at the same time. My machine has the delicate side art graphics installed, so I only plan to raise the playfield very few times. Once I do, I plan to install all of the parts at the same time (this weekend). The EOS switches may be overkill for me and my style of playing, but while the playfield is raised, I will just go ahead and put them in. I also need to adjust the pop bumper spoon contacts because they have pretty poor response right now, and I assume the contacts are dirty/bent incorrectly. Again, while the playfield is raised, I will just do it all.

rosh have you considered adding some sort of audible feedback option (perhaps settable) for any roll-over switch in the playfield? There is something missing as I play it (now for a week) as the ball moves across these switches, without any feedback sensation of whether they truly activated/scored or not. This is especially true for the wide lanes (left loop) where there are double microswitches and I am hoping one of them caught the travel, bur what if they didn't... Perhaps its just me not having enough faith in the machinery which could subside over time, but some kind of minor sound (or tiny shaker movement?) might be good each time a switch is activated and points are added.

Or is it just me? 8-)

Hummm. I am running 12.30B and didn't see it. Is it a setting I missed? I was thinking since this is a vintage theme machine, perhaps something kind of like the old reel spin sound on old EM's....

Maybe. I was thinking some kind of mechanical flipping sound would go perfectly with the scoring visual on the backbox. As those digits turn, rosh could easily make some type of very minor flipping sound. 50 years ago, had an alarm clock that had a nearly identical mechanical flipping mechanism to that which Josh has represented on screen, and you could hear the digits 'flip'... very subtle. I feel anything mechanical sounding would help enhance the feel of the scoring mechanism on the screen.

Ok, 1 week into owning this machine and I decided to spent two and a half hours of “quality” time under the play field. I installed the new power supply, the capacitor kit, and the EOS switches. I adjusted the pop bumper spoon and slings, along with nearly all of the standup targets. I found the upper catapult switch screws both out completely and sitting in the cabinet so I reinstalled and put a drop of blue Loctite. I installed the knocker kit as well. After finding the fly nut and plumb bob in the cabinet as well, I reinstalled the two tilt parts. I also Did a little cable tidy-up in the cabinet to make it look good.

Note1: the API supplied wire-nuts for the power supply are horrible for maintaining a solid high-current connection. I replaced with two 5-position lever-nuts which I picked up on eBay for $5

Note2: lifting the play field is quite challenging, but completely resolved using Pinball Universe protectors, I picked up at PBL for $35. Must have with this machine!

On top of the play field I installed the 3D API facade mod and the Seance plaque mod. Checked the rings and bulbs. Did some light cleaning and tested all the switches and opto sensors. All is good.
( I plan to install the Hooked-on GI lighted water torture mod and the hooked-on straight jacket mods next weekend)

Only question so far... I find confusion with the Upper 3-ball lock downpost #24. It seems to always be confused and has balls locked, even between games. I checked switches 20, 21, and 22 which all seem to work fine. In switch test and with a ball, it senses one, two or three balls sitting up in the ramp. What I can’t figure out is if it is suppose to work like this. Starting a new game doesn’t clear the locked balls. And yet the game does release balls periodically in game play, so I know the post coil is working electrically.

Software 12.30b

Anyone experiencing the lock ball issue, or is it a feature?

I got to say that rosh and APi have created a game that plays like nothing I have played before, in a good way! Perhaps its the PROC architecture heart and any Multimorphic based game would feel this way, but it is a totally new experience. And visually the game looks stunning. Some of the shots are downright 'impossible' to get, but I am sure that over time I will hit a few of them.

As for the Power Supply issues noted all over this thread, my machine is now stable. Power when needed even when multi-ball throws like 1000 balls at the flippers (it feels like 1000 sometimes! LOL). No collapse. strong pull.

One tiny nit for rosh ... Before the new "21" code is released, can you label switches 14 & 58 optionally used for EOS switch something other than "UNUSED" in the test menu? Maybe "Unused/LF EOS" and "Unused/RT EOS" to show that it *MAY* have an EOS on it?

I am glad I picked up this game and will get it dialed-in a tiny bit more this week and then just start playing it.

A couple of notes (on my experience) when installing the API kits for anyone contemplating doing so:

1. The 48V regulated supply. The API supplied model unit has varied over time, but the new supply is basically taking over JUST the 48V supply voltage for ALL of the coils in the machine. It is installed to the right of the existing supply, and one of the hardest parts of the install is to get it screwed into the cabinet bottom due to limited access and location. It can be done, but takes some finese and patience. As far as cabling goes, the API supplied kit has everything you needed. The wire harness for AC MAINS power is a simple disconnect existing and reconnect the new, and the GROUND wire, can be connected to the ground plate in the back of the box too. API supplies "wall-nuts" which are push-in connectors, which I highly recommend that you DISCARD and use something more solid as this is a high current path and the last thing you want is power being lost to to poor 'splices'. Wall-nuts are horrible because they can be installed so poorly and you would never really 'see' the bad connection. Simply pull them off the end of the wire and see how easy it is to do so. They are just horrible. Instead, I used WAGO lever nuts, 5 pole, which are about $6 for the two you will need on ebay. Search for "Wago Lever Nuts 3 Sizes 2, 3 & 5 Poles! ( 2 Pack! ) ES". One for the BROWN and one for the BLACK.

2. EOS Switches. The kit supplied is perfectly fit to what needs to be done, wires are exactly the right length, etc. That said, it takes some delicate touch to install easily. You are basically taking the bracket that holds the main flipper spring off of the base plate, and then adding the EOS blades to the mounting holes already there. I DID NOT remove the springs, which saved some time and perhaps saved the springs. Be careful when removing the bracket screws as they are short and WILL drop into the playfield and become a nightmare to find. Take them out slowly, and as I said, no need to remove the spring first if you are careful. The EOS switch mounts to the bracket with the longer blade closest to the coil body. Two screws through the bracket, then into the switch blade sub-assembly, followed by the black square pressure nut. Tighten this fairly well, but do NOT overtighten as you will damage the black pressure nut. Then you simply put the bracket back in place and CAREFULLY reinstall the two screws keeping it in place. CAREFUL is the key word here. I used a magnetic 8-inch philips #1 screwdriver to allow this to be done quite easily. The wires are exactly the right length, and their instructions are pretty clear. Only suggestion here is to make sure the wire path is thought out well to heep the harness somewhat clean and 'factory' looking. The soldering is pretty easy for the BLACK wire. The other wire is easily inserted into the shell as shown in the instructions, but you have to remove the shells to install the pins. Make sure you install the individual pins with the lock finger on the pin facing the square hold in the shell. Cable tie everything down, trying to keep the harness clean and tight. Lastly, check Sw 14 & 58 in the TEST screen, manually moving the left and right flippers to see the blade switches register.

3. Coil Performance capacitor. This is the most challenging fix to install as the wire for the existing J5 connection on the PD-16 board is VERY short. API recommends cutting a bunch of cable ties to get some slack and allow it to connect. I tried this for 15 minutes and seriously could not make that physics work. Maybe it was my machine but as they say in Tennessee, "That dog won't hunt". What I did (and you have to judge for yourself if you want to take my advice) is I spliced in 6-inches of new primary 16awg wire (black and brown) into the existing J5 connection. I used stranded 16awg wire, carefully spliced both the brown and black wires, and used a soldering iron to make it secure, and shrink tubing to keep it insulated. Once the existing connector was lengthened the rest of the job was a piece of cake. If you cut any cable ties, make sure you PUT THEM BACK! (You'll need some 4-inch white nylon cable ties).

4. Knocker kit. Straight forward installation, with the only note to make sure that you space the knocker coil body 1-3/16" away from the plate itself. This is really important based on the travel of the plunger. Two screws for the plate behind the cash box, and 3 screws holding the coil down. The knocker connector fits into the controller board DRV connector on the left side (rear) of the cabinet., Make sure you install the fuse and the second cable supplied.

Perhaps its the programming foundation chosen that makes the PROC card feel different. I think I remember Josh saying that they did NOT use MPF for the coding in Houdini. Maybe MM is using MPF?

Anyway, I really like the Houdini play now that it's dialed-in...

I enjoy giving back to the community...

Last night I played my first MILLION point game, and I have to say the game really grows on me. I am beginning to see the shots and sequences that pay the most, and yet there is still tons left to find. I still need to dial-in tbe lower catapult a bit (after I upgraded PS and CAP), but the machine plays great.

Like I said in my post above, the hardest part you'll have is screwing the new PSU into the cabinet. It's pretty tight way back there. The knocker is a breeze to install. Also, consider getting a couple of the Lever nuts ($6 on ebay) I mentioned above now, so you are ready in-hand when you have the time to install the PSU and Knocker.

Installed the 21.1.21 code no issues. Haven't found anything different versus the 12.30B beta version, but I suspect there must be things I have missed. In any case, a solid code base now. (And I also hit 2 million last night, after setting for 5 balls and VERY EASY. I guess it's time to start cranking the difficulty back to ADULT... )

I can hear the dremel and it feels painful to imagine...

I was lucky my lock switches are perfectly aligned. Adjusting the playfield wood just feels so, well, final, to me. Everything else in the machine can be replaced, but the PF and cabinet (both wood) are big bites to chew. But if it worked for you, then touche'!!!!

Re-read and I get it now... Interesting on my machine I have none of that alignment issue, not sure where the discrepancy comes from, but you solved it on yours. 21.1.21 seems to be pretty solid code now, no? 8-)

File name really matters. Older code could have no additional numbers, and newer code is very specific about the acceptable file name. As always, I recommend a full quick Fat32 format on any usb drive right before you download from API’s website directly to the usb drive. If you download directly to the usb drive, the file name WILL be correct.

Just saying it makes me imagine the numerous service calls over and over needed to open the backglass to repair the curtain mechanism!!!

There is not alot of room between the glass and the front of the LCD screen. It might be more complicated than we think, since the screen might need to be recessed a bit (new brackets?).

Anyway, it's a cool idea, even if not very practical....

Put USB stick in while the machine is OFF, then turn the machine ON. You should either see it writing LOGS to the stick, or updating the code (if you have a valid 12.1.21 image on the stick.)

If neither of these happen, then your stick is bad, incorrected partitioned or formatted. Get a fresh 4GB FAT32 formatted stick

Timing is everything, So trying to help him eliminate variables. Let's see what his results are from a full OFF sequence.

I am surprised that when APIs PMs and support crew saw the regulation issue in the 48v portion of the original Toroidal-Monster power supply, that they didn't simply replace ALL OF IT with an off-the-shelf, bet-your-business 5V/12V/48V supply. Many 3-way combo's exist since 48V is a common TELCO voltage. Using just HALF of the toroidal-monster seems.... odd. My machine worked fine with the 2-supply approach, but it was a tough implementation to get my hands around.

I get how the $ math works. The two-supply approach may have saved a few dollars here and there, in their pocket or in the consumer's, but may have caused a maintenance nightmare in the making for some people and route operators that will be trying to do field trouble-shooting, etc.

For some reason, all the motion caused by the handful of magnets really caught my eye when I first got my machine. The ball can be thrown from one to another in an eery motion. Very cool!!!

And you should check to make sure the extra capacitor is installed under the playfield, which "powers" the flippers. You will see it mounted to the underside of the playfield, mid-way up, near the controller card. It acts as a reservoir of energy to assure that the flippers have enough power when the magnets and other high power devices are ON. My guess is if they installed the real knocker, then they probably have already installed the extra capacitor, but worth a check to be sure.

Have fun!!!!

I am quite certain that Josh used the EOS switches instead of simple energized timing if those EOS switches were detected.

You may have to install some small piece of colored plastic to prevent the ball from sitting there. I can't think of any other fix. I could envision you gluing in a pea-sized ball or a triangular shaped piece. Antique Gold, chrome, black would all work visually, and whatever you add doesn't have to be very big, just enough to prevent a ball from being able to come to rest up there. It is an odd problem to be sure.

I was in the Houdini club in early 2020 and at the time pretty active on this thread, but moved some newer machines in and had to sell it to make room. I never got the stunning machine out of my head, and am now considering grabbing a NIB one again. They say it's "pre-order", so not sure if a batch was already received or still to be made, but glad to see NIB machines are still flowing and that Josh is still updating code! I am assuming that the NIB batches contain the new power supply and flipper capacitor upgrade, but do they add the much debated EOS switches too?

I suspect a new Houdini will be landing on my doorstep before too long....

I saw a bunch of used machines floating around over the last month or two, in various states of upgrades, but after you add the crazy $550 shipping prices today (all forwarders have raised their prices dramatically), to the essentially 'list' prices being asked by sellers, NIB becomes a simpler and lower cost path. Good to hear that NIB stock exists in several places.... (and yes, selling Houdini was a rookie mistake. LOL)

Luckily it’s not a Xmas present! Lol. I can wait to 2022….

I have widened cabinet speaker cutouts twice. Just like you said, START the hole from the BOTTOM, to keep the edges perfect, and then after cutting HALF way through, finished it up from the TOP! Take your time. The pilot hole solves the alignment problem, no edge issue! Looks perfect.

Just looked at their site and it says 'pre-order' only now. I sent Zach a note, but he may be out of stock. Worth a try, otherwise I can wait....

He does have one in stock. Thanks for the lead!

It’s $7400 plus Shipping turns out to be $600. I got to think on this a spell… I have not bought it yet. ( I paid $5400 for my first one a year ago)

I am on a pre-order list now for a dealer in New England. I think the dealer locked in some pre-increase pricing, so I also was able to get on his list of pre-purchase and locked in the 6999 price plus $200 shipping. I guess we’ll see in January/February or so…

On Nov 5th, rosh said this: "We recently finished a run, that has all of the improvements. I believe all of them were already allocated and/or shipped to distributors (some overseas games are in the warehouse waiting to ship). I’m sure there are a few distributors who have inventory. Probably going to be awhile before we make more." So, unless a unit is already committed and still in transit, it may be awhile for new machines to start flowing again.

I keep looking at the Market listed machine. There is a 300-play machine listed in the market for 6700 but shipping adds $550. Its 6700 and has all the API updates. so for about 7250 you can get a used machine NOW with 300 plays or wait 3-4 months and for just a little more get a NIB. Its a tough choice...

Yes, rosh said that new production units have all the power updates built in. The "flipper performance" module and is actually a large energy storage capacitor that mounts very close to the flippers. It's a small board mounted to the underside of the playfield, with a two-wire connector IN, and another two-wire connector OUT. Flippers need lots of energy for the first few milliseconds, and the capacitor makes that stored energy available very close to the coils, eliminating 4-5 feet of wire between the coil and the power supply. (The longer wiring to the power supply as originally shipped by API acts like a resistor at high current used by flipper coild which causes a non-trivial loss in the energy needed by the flipper coils).

Yes, new units have the power updates built in at the factory.

brenna98 or rosh ... any idea when the next batch of Houdini's will be on the production line? I am guessing February 2022 based on previous comments, but wondering if there was any update?

Also, can you confirm that the EOS switches were added to the standard build when the Power supply update and the flipper performance capacitor was added to the BOM?

Sadly, the Shaker is not a "Selected Product" for Black Friday sale

I am thinking that another run will happen in first half of 2022 since there are a bunch of distributors with 'pre-orders' being taken, but I have been striking out on finding a NIB unit in stock anywhere. Called around and I didn't find anyone with a mchine ready to ship.

Time to find a different christmas present! LOL

The graphite bob weight slides on to the swinging wire and is tightened using just the wing-nut. The higher you place it, the more sensitive to tilting. No need to over-tighten it. Some folks leave it off completely (as shipped).

Since 2018, The original unregulated 48v supply was updated with a regulated version ($150 on API website). In addition, a flipper performance board was added under the playfield near the flippers to store energy very close to the coils. It was basically a big capacitor mounted on a PCB, (but was out of stock recently on API website). The flippers draw so much energy for the first few milliseconds, that the length of the wire between the power supply and the coil begins to impact pulling power of the flipper coil. The capacitor essentially stores energy on the “other end” of the wire!!

That is exactly what it is! The pub just makes it easy to insert inline and mount to play field.

Does anyone have any updates on when the next production run of Houdini's might be expected?

Update: I have now put a deposit down on a new one…

Curious what capacitor is on the coil board you have install? I noticed the original version coil board had a 10,000 mf capacitor design, but the october2021 manual shows they updated the capacitor on the coil board to a 33,000 mf capacitor. (Stores a lot more energy)

OK, it must be me missing something, but while waiting/anticipating a new Houdini machine from the next production run, I was browsing around the web and came across the very early 2016 prototype pictures and a discussion about the machine, LONG BEFORE IT WAS ACTUALLY RELEASED. I had never seen this detail previously, so it was kinda fascinating to read about API's "magic" theme journey, (Starting with their Magic Girl involvement). Notice not surprisingly that the Flyer artwork and detail doesn't match the prototype machine, and the prototype machine doesn't match the production units at all.

The reporter's write up after seeing HOUDINI circa September 2016, in las vegas:
https://www.pinballnews.com/news/americanpinball2.html

And then pictures of the first prototype (notice the water torture chamber was replaced by the theater stage, and almost everything else changed too!) here:
h3 (resized).jpgh1 (resized).jpgh2 (resized).jpg

The early design was connected to him for sure. API was helping him get out of the Magic Girl mess when they started as a company, and his hand was all over the early prototype Houdini design. I haven't uncovered how their 'changing' relationship translated to the complete 180-degree change in Houdini but clearly it did. Based on what I see, I think we ended up with a far superior game...

I know what you mean. I sold my first Houdini machine 15 months ago, and knew almost immediately I was going to regret it. Its the kind of theme I like as well. Now I have a new one on order and have been accumulating some mods for it. Still looking for some kind of flipper toppers. (The API store seems sold out for the last two months. Maybe when their deluxe machines hit the production line they will re-stock the plastic toppers).

Do you have a picture of the install? I assume you used a 6-inch hole cutter and put some metal mesh in front of the speaker itself? I have thought about doing so myself on a new machine coming in a few months and just wonder if it was worth the effort.

Update: I had an original Houdini serial around #1250 and it would have needed a cabinet speaker installed manually in the field. It sounds like API has added a cabinet speaker to the production build saving buyers the trouble of doing that. Is that correct?

What version are you running? the latest is from last october, Version 21.10.25

API has the shaker on their store, $125

I just put a deposit down on a second one too. Sold the first one a year ago, but as you said, the newer titles just haven’t moved me. The Houdini machine is stunning, and has enough gimmicks and gadgets to keep it interesting. I hear another run may be on the line at end of year or beginning of next year. Hopefully another software release will accompany it as well with any tweaks he’s thought about over the last year…

The API store usually has it in stock for about $60... but before you swap, I would recommend doing as the previous reply states: Check the whole area and make sure the new one won't bind or get caught on a bent bracket or other obstacle.

From the story narrative:
"American Pinball recently announced their new ‘Classic’ version of their current title, Legends of Valhalla. This involves replacing some of the custom moulded playfield parts with flat plastics and making some of the cosmetic enhancements such as the Magic Glass and interior cabinet artwork optional extras. Where appropriate, this approach is likely to be applied to earlier titles such as Houdini."

...it would appear that API will introduce a lower-end, reduced cost/price version of their originals. But it's confusing because they already have the base model and the deluxe models of Houdini, so I think they might actually mean a 'value' model would be added to the mix, priced below the current base model.

But somewhat confusing to be sure...

I am hoping API is going to create their own three levels of machines: like Stern's now famous PRO, PREMIUM and LE, where the existing two variants would map to the PREMIUM and LE capabilities, and the new value engineered one would become their "PRO"

Was this just wishful thinking???

I hear you, but I am trying to resolve the new narrative of a 'value' machine in the works in my mind. I 100% agree that stripping out the EXISTING base model would be weird. And they already also have a DELUXE model, so we have two models today. Not to make more work from them, but if they want to stay with two models only, they would have to discontinue the existing base model and strip it down to the VALUE edition. (Folks that want the stage and small screen would need to buy their current deluxe edition). I guess I look at their current two models as the two-tiers they should stay with, but if they want to stay with two models and one is going to be the DELUXE version, then there is only one real way to get to the other one (bye bye Stage and 4-inch display)...

Oh wait, JOSH/ROSH is gone. Who will delete all those lines of code for the VALUE Houdini??? 8-)

Waiting on a NIB Houdini from the next API run, and ordered up the Mod Couple Water Torture mod (looks sweet). I just ran across this 3D model for a custom made bracket to make it easier to mount without needing sticky tape in the back right corner.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3589514

Just had it printed in PLA-Wood for $15. I'll store it with the mod to use whenever the machine arrives...

Can anyone tell me the length of the Houdini shooter rod? I have a bunch of old vintage looking knobs that would make a great themed shooter, but I realized that the exposed portion of the rods available through the common sources vary in length. If anyone knows how long the Houdini specific factory rod is, please let me know. Thx

Ironically, JOSH wrote the Houdini code to emulate the EOS switches in software. The first 500 machines or so didn't even ship with the hardware or wiring and early adopters had to add the EOS leafs and wiring (He did it in software using a timing sequence. After ~1ms of any flipper being energized initially, he reduced the power cycle of that coil to HOLD-IT in)

Nobody's talking dates at API as they are running LOV right now, but several of the distributors are collecting deposits on the CLASSIC and DELUXE versions right now. That said, I get a sinking feeling that in the spring or so API will run the DELUXE version only and force people to pony up to it if they want a machine. I hope I am wrong since the classic version is so desireable as shipped. (and yes, there were some pictures posted of a stripped down version mostly by eliminating the theater stage, but not sure how many versions they can support in manufacturing at API and they would be financially inclined to do everything they can to force buyers up to the DELUXE version since the profitability of it is much higher.

Long answer to "WHEN?", but I would guess MARCH 2023 (since they have been running LOV for awhile now).

...So will they remove the Stage and 4.3" screen or won't they in their 'new' "Standard" Edition??? Time will tell. The Distributors' listings for the CLASSIC could all be wrong and based on the non-Deluxe model that they USED to sell.

Ugg, I hope not! Seems like a predatory move to force existing buyers with deposits already in place (like me) to upgrade to the DELUXE version if they want those two core features..

Seems like full ball release between games should be added to Houdini code if anyone ever picks up the code authoring at API again…

I bought a set of them and after I received it, didn't install since they are very thin, like paper, and do not have any impact cushion like some other sets do. They look like they will wear out pretty quickly. I could imagine me cleaning sticky residue off of all the targets a few months after I installed it once they wore out, so I decided not to use them. I have a set for free if anyone wants it....

Update: For match features, the software just sends the knocker signal to a hardware driver instead of a sound event. But as Eric points out below, it can be used for other events as well, where the startling sound might be distractive but the physical knock feels more integrated.

Lots of distributors still selling pre-reservations on Houdini, so they must have a batch of those coming this year too…

Seems like a handful of documented bugs could be fixed by API, perhaps coincident with the next run of machines sometime this year?

The capacitor upgrade allows energy to be stored much closer to the coils. (The location is part of the magic). Each coil draws a lot of current, so distance and wire length from the energy source (otherwise down in the cabinet) matters. Wire actually has a slight resistance and at high current can be noticeable. The capacitor upgrade (33,000 uf) is large enough to store a good amount of energy during that first millisecond or so of coils firing. Makes a huge difference!

After owning this title twice, I find myself with leftover mods, all NEW, which I will list here (and send robin a cut if they sell):

- TILT SideBlades (online $70), $50
- PBL's 6 piece protector set, floursecent green and purple, ($30 online), $20
- The API backbox curved HOUDINI logo to replace API logo, ($35 online), $25
- Mod's KEYLANE post, ($30 online), $20
- Shooter plate with etched LOCK, $15
- Pack of 8 Gold acorn bolt for legs ($16 online), $10

I will add actual shipping cost to each item. Save shipping if I put in one package. These are all new, never installed.
Houdini API speaker backbox curved (resized).jpgHoudini protectors 6pc (resized).jpgbolts-gold (resized).jpg

houdini modcouple KEYLANE (resized).jpgshooter plate houdini (resized).jpg

Hblades (resized).jpg

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