Houdini
American Pinball, 2017You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider brenna98.
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I’m excited to work with API and their customers!
As a community member, I know how valuable these club threads can be for information.
I’ll be getting up to speed with the company and the games over the next several weeks and will be reading the threads to see where I can help.
Should you need an answer from API directly; [email protected] or 833 API HELP
Quoted from pinballinreno:I have need of support and got one email back but nothing more in a couple weeks.
PM sent.
I'll get you fixed up.
Quoted from seenev:requested the skill shot kit
Apologies for the delay. Your skill shot kit is on the way.
Quoted from Rascal_H:Wonder if the switch is bad. Even pressing the red button on the switch does not trigger the switch (even in test mode). The only way I can get it to register in switch mode is if I hold a screwdriver across the contacts.
PM sent, but i'll post my response here too so others have reference:
Inside the micro switch are contacts just like any other leaf switch. Do you have any contact cleaner spray? I've had good luck increasing connectivity by spraying some cleaner on the button of the micro switch, then working the lever with my finger several times.
If that doesn't get it working, submit a ticket and i'll get a new switch out to you: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/
Quoted from Navystan:recommended some WD40 tech spray to "Lube" up the ball contacts on switch.
I want to clarify. WD40 is a brand name with multiple products under that brand.
I was recommending a contact cleaner for electronics they make: https://www.amazon.com/Company-300554-Specialist-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B084VP9JJK
NOT the original lubricant.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:it mostly seems to happen when you’ve got a multiball going, and the magnets fire right about when you’re hitting the flippers
I’m testing a upgrade to give the coils more consistent power during heavy power usage.
So far the results are very good! I’ll be working on a kit and instructions for this simple upgrade very soon.
Quoted from silen7ce:Anyone tried this yet? "coil performance improvement kit"
Someone jumped the gun getting this posted on the site. But, yes this is the kit.
My beta testers should have their kits today and will provide their feedback shortly.
Quoted from punkin:You want it released before it's tested?
I have tested it and know it works.
I just wanted to make sure the instructions are straight forward and also let the folks that have the first kits provide their testimony for the performance improvement.
Feel free to order whenever.
Quoted from Colehvac1:it locked on the left magnet, burned the IRL540N, burned the coil, the fuse tripped, took out another IRL540 on the add-on board
This part isn’t correct.
The knocker is connected to the add-on board.
Your magnets are connected to the PD-16 coil driver board.
They where two separate issues.
Not one causing both.
I have made our electrical engineer aware of the knocker wiring issue and he’s checking these kits so they’re correct going forward.
Quoted from drummermike:I am waiting for AP to answer my email.
I got your ticket. I'll call you later today to walk through the installation.
Quoted from drummermike:Just got a call from AP. Outstanding service. All is good again. Capacitor was hooked up correctly. All coils working. Now I have to dial them in. Scoop puts ball out on first try! Thanks again to everyone for the help.
I really can’t take the credit. It’s the amazing community we have right here!
Thanks for having my back guys.
I’m glad the cap kit is working for people.
pinballinreno I’ll be making edits to the instructions in the next few days.
Quoted from finnflash:So would the capacitor be helpful if I have little to no flipper fade? Does it make the whole game just play better?
Yes and yes.
Quoted from indypinhead:If so, what exactly does the EOS switch upgrade do?
The end of stroke switch is for the flipper hold power. All flippers are dual wound coils: High power for the initial snap of power, and Low power for the hold at the top (end of stroke). Traditionally the end of stroke switches where critical to have so you didn't burn up the coil.
Houdini and many modern games have computer controlled EOS switches.
The physical eos switch helps with balls coming at full speed hitting your flipper, when the contacts open the high power engages again and snaps the flipper back up.
Quoted from lykkeman:I have scratch my monitor protective lens (part number: PLS0017-00).
Is it possible to buy a new one...? And where...?
Another solutions / ideas are welcome as well.
It would be cheaper to either buff out the scratches or cut a new piece of lexan or polycarbonate from your local hardware store.
Quoted from Deyanks98:I still experience loss of strength during multi balls to the right flipper and also the right flipper in general is much weaker than the left one. Thoughts or suggestions? I’ll reach out to technical support as well.
Both flipper coils are on the same brown bank of the coil driver. Take a look at the mechanics of the flipper. The plunger going into the coil should be smooth and straight.
If you feel a drag when you move the bat up, it needs adjusting.
You can also try swapping the coils to see if the issue moves.
Quoted from bobukcat:Yep, even with the upgraded power supply and the capacitor board I still get occasionally flipper issues primarily during Seance and even more-so if you have other multiballs going. It's not a show-stopper at all and the magnet action is amazing.
Running the latest beta code during the last stream we played for 2.5 hrs with no loss of flipper power:
I recall Josh saying he modified the magnet usage a bit so they don't suck as much power during multiball.
Quoted from Freddykaboodle:rebooted. Any ideas?
Make sure wires are secure in the power supply screw terminals.
Quoted from riggy469:Houdini has returned to the grave. ☹️
Opened a support ticket today with AP, looks like the main power supply is dead.
Like others have said. please measure the DC voltage coming off the power supply:
5v = red and black wires
12v = yellow and black wires
coils are 48v and brown and black wires, but that's not required to boot.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:Anyone happen to have the instructions on the water torture chamber? I cant find mine and couldn’t find anything on hooked website.
Quoted from PhantomO:More maintenance fun - my pop bumper ring was loose and floppy.
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-pop-bumper-toy-hardware
When you go to install, do not over tighten.
Instead, just snug them up with one drop of blue lock tite on the threads.
Quoted from MrFancy:I'm wondering if maybe some optos got knocked out of place
Review the through and lock switches in switch test.
Also, take the balls out and check if they are magnetized on a flat surface.
Quoted from rosh:We are finding that some sticks that are fat32 don't have partitions the way the linux OS and he update code is expecting. Dave Brennan recently got a bunch of brand new USB sticks that had the issue. We found that a basic re-formatting on windows, would not resolve it, but we do now have some instructions for formatting on windows, that seems to solve the problem.
Instructions are now posted under resources on the AP site: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-1/USB-drive-formatting-procedure.pdf
Quoted from mbwalker:noticed a screw and a nut
Check the down post coil on your under through.
DC56F052-449A-4734-A7C8-6978633A0A87 (resized).jpegQuoted from kettchxxii:Anyone have the part number or a link to the wire gate coming out of the shooter lane? A client of mine already broke his. . .
MTL0034-00 = one-way gate bracket
WRF0007-00 = one-way gate wireform
I'll have this listed on the API store soon. (note, there are 2 of these on Houdini)
Quoted from kettchxxii:Anyone have the part number or a link to the wire gate coming out of the shooter lane? A client of mine already broke his. . .
This gate is now listed: https://store.american-pinball.com/products/one-way-gate-wireform-1-09-wrf0007-00?_pos=1&_sid=d4dc0c690&_ss=r
Quoted from EricHadley:I am having an issue with the stage or is it the theatre? The thing with the curtain that opens under the screen. the ball goes in but the game doesnt know it’s there. I assume I have a switch issue. is that a physical switch or an opto?
I made this quick video for you:
Sorry I’m not an actor.
I’ll make a better one when I have time.
Quoted from Thwacko:Diagnostics menu shows the trunk lid and tilt in red. What this means practically is that the trunk lid doesn't open to lock multiball, and the subway lock release doesn't work either. So you can't start mutliball, and all the balls eventually end up locked in the subway.
As I mention in the video, make sure to pull out the coin door interlock switch; otherwise no coils will work in test.
As for switches, if they haven't been hit in a while, they will turn red letting you know there may be an issue. For home use free play games, these will be the coin mech switches and maybe the tilt if you're not someone that shakes the machine.
Quoted from bobukcat:a quick video of what mine does
i've tested the stage front eject with intentionally magnetized balls and it does something similar to what your video shows. Not saying that's your exact cause, but might be worth a look.
Quoted from jester523:getting an switch error for the front stage
Check the connection on the opto board, bottom left corner of the vertical underside of the Playfield, X6 plug.
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/opto
Quoted from mark-g:If you lose 5V
Antek has been pretty good about sending replacements if you call them. There’s a model number on a sticker, on the side of the power supply.
Or if you’re handy replacing capacitors, you can repair your original.
Quoted from MightyGrave:How many amps do I need on 5V-Rail and 12V-Rail to run the stable?
power supply amps?
5v 5amp
12v 8amp
That’s the output from the Antek power supply
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:The ball sits slightly askew of the switch, and I've bent it down (very carefully!) and tried to bend in the ball guide a bit to line the ball up. Seems to have helped
^^ This
And i'll add to test any adjustments in switch test several times by rolling the ball into the locks and checking that your adjustments are giving consistent switch closures.
Quoted from jguzik420:Any new toppers being as well? Thanks in advance
Stay tuned. I need to make a video and written instructions for the install.
Quoted from robotron:i am picking up a houdini this saturday in a honda pilot if it doesnt fit is it easy o take the back box off?
I use Hotwheels in this example, but the process is basically the same.
Quoted from PoMC:Hi everyone, I'm considering joining the Houdini club by trading for one. Hesitant to do it because I want to play the game, not constantly tweak it or have to upgrade parts, power supplies or anything.
This is a Nov 2018 build. What can anyone tell me to look for so that fixes have already been performed, etc?
This video will help answer this:
Quoted from KrazyIvan14:I'm a little confused on how to troubleshoot. One of my kids power cycled the machine twice while in the middle of someone's game. Now, the coils don't seem to fire (ball won't fire into shooter lane, flipper won't fire). I didn't quite understand the manual on the power lines and how certain fuses were connected to each as I'm assuming a fuse (or multiple) is blown. I saw another post about a red LED indicating a blown fuse, but I'm actually not entirely sure where they even are on this machine.
bobukcat 's advise is accurate. If you need me to walk through some testing with you, please give me a call when you're in front of the game 833-API-HELP
Fuse list is here: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-6/Houdini--Quick-Reference-Guide.pdf
Quoted from wiredoug:Connect on Facebook * where we wont answer you for a week
I'm sorry. I didn't see it and I can't find your post.
I did however get your direct email and answered this morning.
Quoted from splitcms:the mate-n-lock y connector with spade ends for the topper?
I'll take care of it. Sorry that didn't get included in the box.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Now you need to offer a cabinet subwoofer kit to retrofit earlier Houdini games !
I’ve thought about it, and its much easier and cheaper to just install an external subwoofer.
Cutting a hole for the internal speaker is the big obstacle. Think about it.. how much is a router, plus bits, plus a jig, plus the speaker and wire?
Even a hole saw that big isn’t cheap.
Its more than an external sub and easy to mess up your cabinet, hence why API should not give instructions to do this.
Quoted from tp:Any harm in turning the power way up on
Flippers
Pops
And slings?
As others have said, get the capacitor kit.
As for cranking up coil power, look at switch sensitivity first.
You will get a lot more action out of your pops and slings with a close/sensitive switch gap.
Turning up the coil power will make them hit harder, but they won’t be more sensitive without switch adjustment.
(I’ll make a video on this soon)
Quoted from mbelofsky:The switches show lock 1 and 2 at the top left registering and the 4 balls in the trough.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Awesome video! Very professionally done! Picture in picture was amazing!
Thanks! I get a little better each time.
Always open to suggestions for future videos too. I have a list going
Quoted from Freddykaboodle:I would like to give a big shout out to Dave Brennan from API. This guy goes above and beyond in helping us all over the world
Thanks for the nice comments! Wish management read Pinside to see them.
Quoted from EricHadley:Where is the power supply located and how do I tell if I have the upgraded one?
I was asked to "Fix" manual's address for AP's current location. I added a few more helpful things: http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2021-10/API-Houdini-Service-Manual-10-6-21.pdf
Quoted from bobukcat:What I and a few others had fail was the actual greenwell rectifier/regulator, might be nice to cover how to replace that part too.
In that case, just get the new unit. Link posted in the video description.
Quoted from rockrand:Is this happening with the new all in one power supply only or both new and old?
The Antek power supply used on early Houdini games.
Quoted from drummermike:I bent the scoop years ago. I reduced or increased the coil power to no avail.
Can you send me some pics of your scoop and coil settings? [email protected]
Quoted from drummermike:Try the scoop setting at 12. The curve of the metal scoop should match the curve of a 3" diameter circle.
I like your pipe method. Makes it much faster. Here’s the video
Quoted from pinballinreno:Glorious! Are the new games coming with this adjusted scoop?
-do you mean LOV? Because it’s a different pinball life scoop, but same arch.
Quoted from pinballinreno:For the less inclined that have no hammer, with they be for sale?
- working with the supplier to get the increased curve parts made for Houdini
Quoted from Wildbill327:With all that said I have a few questions for the Houdini pro’s…can I add a subwoofer to the sound system?
I have lots of external subwoofers I use for my modern games (Polk PSW10). I like them because they're less invasive to install vs cabinet speakers and I can hook 2 pins to one sub. Plus easy enough to move to another game if needed.
For houdini (built before 2021), you just need to connect the speaker wire to the amp in the backbox.
Quoted from Looking4FirstPin:Does anyone have any suggestions?
PM sent with suggestions.
Quoted from Greaseman:height from ground level to top of the Topper?
Quoted from Platypus:without topper is around 76"
Add another 9.75" with the topper
Quoted from goatdan:Silly question but... What size legs does Houdini use?
Measured 30.25” long.
Quoted from goatdan:Got the shaker kit. Where does it plug in? Related, got the knocker, but no knocks happen.
I can't seem to find install instructions anywhere, and didn't get them in the box.
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2019-9/Knocker-Installation.pdf
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-6/Shaker.pdf
Quoted from zahner:Just in case the upcoming sale includes coils, what coil changes are suggested with the new code? I understand that there are efficiencies achieved by replacing existing coils. Any thoughts?
Yes, coils are in the sale.
Look at your coil settings on the latest code. If there is a Yellow setting for that, a yellow coil can be used.
Quoted from pinballinreno:which flipper coils should I order as an upgrade?
No change to flipper coils.
Quoted from MightyGrave:so which coils should be changed?
You don’t NEED to change anything if you don’t want.
On current production games some general use coils where changed from Red 23-800 to yellow 26-1200
I don’t recall every one, but to find out go into Settings - Coil settings and go through the list.
If the coil has a red or yellow highlighted number that can be selected, those are default settings for that color coil.
Quoted from zahner:Also, why would one consider changing from a blue to red solenoid for the flippers? I’m not experiencing any issues presently
No change to the flipper coils. They have always been and will continue to be the blue wrapper COI0003
Quoted from Markharris2000:Also, can you confirm that the EOS switches were added to the standard build when the Power supply update and the flipper performance capacitor was added to the BOM?
Yes, confirmed.
Quoted from Markharris2000:idea when the next batch of Houdini's will be on the production line?
Not sure, but ask your distributor. There are NIB games available.
Quoted from Pinstein:the stage door is open and flashing, when I hit it, it just sits there with no response and I have to wait for a ball search that may or may not come.
Quoted from Tugboat1:fire balls out and never stopped.
Quoted from Tugboat1:The ball lock coil not as well. Moves the post slowly and not very much.
I assume you mean the down-post. Check the alignment of the post going into the playfield from the underside. The L bracket that holds the coil and plunger needs to be perpendicular to the playfield so the down-post can move freely. If the L bracket gets pushed/bent forward or back, the post will move at an angle and drag on the playfield.
Quoted from Tugboat1:problem that still presits is the game still resets mid play. You don't even need to be in a multi ball.
The next time it resets, note the date and time. Then pull the game logs by inserting a USB drive without game code on it.
Send to [email protected]
Note: there is a known bug with having 4 replay levels set. If this is the cases with your game, take it down to 3.
Quoted from Tuxedomask23:height from the bottom or cab to the top of the head.
Folded dimensions
54” long, 28.75” wide, 30” tall
Quoted from HarryReimer:Luckily I had the right size caps, put them in and I was back in business. My question is, is this going to be a continual problem? Do they sell an upgraded 5 volt power supply? Or do I just stock the caps for when it happens again?
Houdini - Antek 5/12v Power Supply
Quoted from DropGems:Multiball flippers: definitely noticed the flipper weakness on multiballs and some inconsistencies throughout games. Doesn’t really bother me much and didn’t effect game but wondering if there’s anything else that can I be done? My game was manufactured sept. 2021 so I figure it has all the upgrades.
Does the coil power die during séance multiball? If so, please submit a service ticket: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/service/
Quoted from DropGems:Scoop: Haven’t gotten this to eject smoothly on first go.
Quoted from DropGems:Shooter lane ball eject: sounds kinda chaotic and clanging.
Quoted from scbill88:The problem probably is the Subway Diverter.
Sounds like the right lock down-post. Make sure the tip of the post is going down far enough to allow the ball to roll down. There is adjustability for this.
Quoted from scbill88:Are these rods pretty standard through the industry size wise?
Yes, nothing special about the shooter rod.
Quoted from Happy81724:I just got a Houdini and it’s acting funny. If I go in the curtain shot is doesn’t find the ball sometimes. I cleared the balls and there were 7. I saw the sticker for 6 so took one out but now it won’t start when I hit start. Anyone have this issue? Do I need to add the 7th again?
You where able to take 7 balls out of the game? Or are you counting the captive ball in the stage?
There should be 6 playable balls installed.
As for the stage, test the optos in switch test. Front of Stage, Stage, and Back of Stage
If the ball you shoot into the stage just sits there, you need to calibrate the stage
Houdini - Stage Calibration
Quoted from billsfanmd:picking up a houdini next week.How do I know which power supply I have? thx
Houdini Coil Power and EOS Upgrades
Quoted from zahner:Does anybody know if the scoop deflector that is now on the American Pinball store site is the one that was rumored to have a better curve to it than the original?
Yes.
You can either bend your existing bracket:
Or get one with the increased curve: https://store.american-pinball.com/products/snubber-braket-radius?_pos=1&_psq=Scoo&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Quoted from Snugs:Flippers aren't working either. just don't move at all when buttons are pressed. stuck an extra ball into shooter lane, plunged it and game works/reacts/scores correctly but no flipper movement and no ball 2 to plunge after first ball drains. hopefully these are the last two fixes before I'm back up and running. Anyone have any advice on a fix?
Check voltage and fuses
Check data lines are connected
Quoted from MegaFeenix:I guess my question has to be in its original configuration going white to black and red to black would the game still power on and play for like 20 minutes? Hard to tell if the wires are wrong cause they just kinda disappear into the doughnut.
That’s correct. It’s Alternating Current, so as long as all one color of one plug is going to all one color of the other plug, you’re good.
Quoted from PinJim:printed instructions for the knocker are out of date and didn’t show the newest power supply. No worries, I just referenced the online version.
Thanks. Informed the appropriate person.
Quoted from MattWesterville:Rosh,
Sorry I'm depressed and memory sucks.
The calibration alternates between the 64 and -14.
The front of stage need not be triggered. But two, stage and back of stage are apparently required. I went with a magnetic stick with ball on it, beats finger (healing well), and same location that gets stage response is lighting back of stage and stage. Rolling a ball in typically triggers front of stage and stage but only briefly.
Ball & stick when directly held above captive (this position lights "stage" only) doesn't evoke a response. Only when I push it in more (and "back of stage" is also triggered), does curtain close and software responds. If never are more than one switch to be active, then there's something up with software because it's demanding two. Of course that'd mean everyone would have issue, and they don't. So I'm in a crazy world.
MattWesterville
More details on this: This game was bought used and the captive ball inside is likely not pre-calibrated using REV robotics smart servo SRS programmer. It's likely the previous owner bought a uncalibrated servo off-the-shelf and installed it. Although the servo is moving, they didn't get the position correct.
Also, the angle of travel on a non-calibrated servo will be too wide it's likely pushing against one of the hard stops. This will eventually burn up the motor if that's the case.
The lesson here is to buy the right part for the job: https://store.american-pinball.com/products/hh-stage-motor?variant=39252680474722
And install it properly:
Clarification:
Quoted from MattWesterville:unscrewing the captive ball
This was an idea to gain a little height and a path of least amount of work compared to replacing the servo with a calibrated one.
Quoted from MattWesterville:running calibration with 2nd ball on there
Calibration should always be done with no pinball inside the stage (people that are new to Houdini ownership don't know there is a captive ball inside that can not be removed) Follow this for captive ball height calibration:
Quoted from MattWesterville:I have a capacitor upgrade and I looked at instructions. They are poorly done, from the top it shows a circled metal box with black&brown wires on a terminal strip.
Thanks for the feedback. But, I suggest reading them closer
Please note: In order to see the greatest effect, you should already have the updated 48v power supply. Then I show pictures of each, older conversion kit and new metal box that's used in games today so you can see what they look like.
Then the instructions move on to the steps to install the capacitor board.
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2020-8/Houdini--Coil-Performance-Improvement-Kit.pdf
All modern game playfields lift the same.
Quoted from MattWesterville:Dave,
I watched video... nice job! Your customer service is top. I may of spoken to you about a stage problem and your advice solved it. [If that's not you, my apologies]
I assume I open that metal box then. It is the upgraded PSU. I didn't get the API upgrade as your out of stock but got a capacitor and have connectors for it. Does it go parallel to black&brown wires? Instructions have a 2nd connector going to where these wires went in. That way I needn't open box, just shove leads into terminal strip along the black&brown wires.
Thanks,
MattWesterville
Sorry for the late reply. vacation.
If you have a large metal box (looks like a giant toaster), the 48v upgrade is already done.
You likely already have end of stroke switches.
The only thing you might not have is the capacitor kit. Depends what the previous owner installed.
Yes, Black- and Brown+ are parallel
Call if you're unsure or get stuck. 833-API-HELP
Quoted from jewboyflowerhead:Upraded PS. Gameplay improved tremendously. Catapult hit everytime. However, flippers would lose power randomly and completely once magnets activate. Always at the beginning, so ball save would usually still be active, so gameplay would be minimally affected. Would always regain power after 5 seconds and function fine the rest of the game.
Please send me a picture of your 48v power supply and connections along with the API store order#. [email protected]
discovered this episode on Houdini on my last road trip to North Carolina. Interesting listen and surprising details.
https://podcasts.apple.com/in/podcast/harry-houdini-more-than-magic/id278981407?i=1000539295822
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