(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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#3601 2 years ago

Surprisingly, I don’t see a sticky with the exact dimensions with the backbox attached. The cabinet is 75"H x 29"W x 55"D. Anyone know the width of the backbox? Has anyone taken it off to go through a door and want to share how difficult it was (how many wires?).

Thanks.

#3602 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Surprisingly, I don’t see a sticky with the exact dimensions with the backbox attached. The cabinet is 75"H x 29"W x 55"D. Anyone know the width of the backbox? Has anyone taken it off to go through a door and want to share how difficult it was (how many wires?).
Thanks.

I removed the backbox after my buddy wasn't able to come help me move it as planned. Only maybe 4 wires and 1 connector to disconnect. It was easy, 10 minute job. I couldn't find a good Allen key for the backbox hinge though

#3603 2 years ago

New mod coming from Hookedonpinball.com
Custom cast hand painted we are tweaking lighting but close enough to share. To get on the pre buy list email me at hookedonpinbal@outlook.com
This is our proto finishing touches to be added, plug in and play tucks in behind rt ramp. Install pictures will be posted in a few weeks.

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#3604 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Surprisingly, I don’t see a sticky with the exact dimensions with the backbox attached. The cabinet is 75"H x 29"W x 55"D. Anyone know the width of the backbox? Has anyone taken it off to go through a door and want to share how difficult it was (how many wires?).
Thanks.

It is VERY simple, you just have to be a bit careful. I removed the glass, backbox, and playfield to get it in my house (by myself). VERY light game, especially when compared to trying to move a Dialed In last time. 100lb weight difference. Also, DI is NOT easy to remove the backbox. Every wire in the world is in the head - I have no idea why they did that.

Anyway, Houdini was a breeze. Hinge bolts take a standard 1/4" hex wrench, but you really have to work it to get it in there. They sort of look like security bolts, but a standard one works. I replaced mine just in case.

#3605 2 years ago

Thanks to all for the interest and orders! Our kits are now complete and shipping this week complete with adjustable stainless mounting hardware and easy to follow instructions and no this will not avoid your warranty. We appreciate all the feedback and interest, Houdini deserves a new/old trick of mystery!!

The Mod Couple

IMG_1127 (resized).jpg

#3606 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yeah, the problem happened with the conversion from inches to metric/mm measurement. Somehow it wasn't caught for way too long and ended up with cabs for both AfMr and Houdini being off-spec from a standard B/W cabinet they were supposed to be.

As stated, these are standard B/W lockdown bars, which always had a gap. The inside dimensions of the cabinet are the same, the difference is in the thickness of the wood. The older cabinets have .75 inch (19.05 mm) thick wood and the new cabinets are 18mm which is .708, so that just gives it a little more gap. If the lock down bar gets pulled to the right when you pull on the lever, it puts all of that extra space on one side, so makes that gap seem bigger.

You can add rubber or foam on the inside as vic posted above or you can just gently tap it back to center after installing it.

#3607 2 years ago
Quoted from Genjuro:

Just wanted to tag you on this in case you missed it.

Pretty sure the other day I completed it on the last flip, but I'll check it out to see. In theory the flippers should die after that film and then come right back to life when the target is hit.

#3608 2 years ago
Quoted from JIM_Z:

Is tilt working in the code? I have nothing while playing but works in test.

hmm, I someone else say this, but I am seeing tilts in play, there are a few rules around it.

No tilt or tilt warning in first 6 seconds at the start of a ball (to previous player tilting does not hose you).
No tilt or tilt warning event if last tilt warning was in the last 2 seconds (bob settle time)
No tilt or tilt warning during the first 10 seconds after a ball search (gives you a chance to shake it loose without fear of tilting, if the ball search does not)

If you still believe this is happening, you can pull and send me a log when you feel the tilt was not registering and I can take a look to see what might be going on.

#3609 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

As stated, these are standard B/W lockdown bars, which always had a gap. The inside dimensions of the cabinet are the same, the difference is in the thickness of the wood. The older cabinets have .75 inch (19.05 mm) thick wood and the new cabinets are 18mm which is .708, so that just gives it a little more gap. If the lock down bar gets pulled to the right when you pull on the lever, it puts all of that extra space on one side, so makes that gap seem bigger.
You can add rubber or foam on the inside as vic posted above or you can just gently tap it back to center after installing it.

Well the good news is a lot of us have never even noticed. As someone who has to carry that big cab around sometimes, I appreciate the lost weight! Haha

#3610 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Well the good news is a lot of us have never even noticed. As someone who has to carry that big cab around sometimes, I appreciate the lost weight! Haha

You must have moved a different machine. lol Houdini is build like a quality tank which is a Good thing. I would have thought it would be lighter but moving it down stairs was a magic trick in itself!

#3611 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

You must have moved a different machine. lol Houdini is build like a quality tank which is a Good thing. I would have thought it would be lighter but moving it down stairs was a magic trick in itself!

I took it apart removed backbox, playfield and moved cab all separately. It was actually quite easy! Playfield is heavy for one person but very doable - the yellow rails and hinge are perfect holding points (wear work gloves!)

The cab was difficult but I didn’t touch a single wall or piece of furniture bringing it down the stairs

If you saw my post above, I also just moved a Dialed In.. holy crap is that a different story. Glad I got it in but MAN it is heavy! Took that apart too (also way harder)

#3612 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I removed the backbox after my buddy wasn't able to come help me move it as planned. Only maybe 4 wires and 1 connector to disconnect. It was easy, 10 minute job. I couldn't find a good Allen key for the backbox hinge though

Did you ultimately determine the key size? I still have 2 days to order one if I don’t have it.

Thanks!

#3613 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Ok guys........ is anyone that has one abile to hit the two upper targets on the skill shot. I have been playing with the shooter and ball guide for a few hours to no avail.

I can hit the bottom and middle targets with no problem but I have never been able to hit the top target. I figured it was just me and my lack of skill.

#3614 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Question on Houdini Leg Levelers:
My Houdini came missing two of the leg levelers in the box.
I installed two new ones I had in my parts box until Barry at AP sent me out the brown levelers later on.
I noticed this weekend at a friend's house that his Houdini did not have the rear levelers screwed out at all.
They were screwed all the way in just like the front two.
I mentioned it to him and he said it was supposed to be set up that way, that the incline was already preset with all the
levelers screwed in all the way. That this info was in the directions or setup manual. I didn't see that anywhere.
This isn't right, is it?

That is correct.

6 degrees is where you want to be.

#3615 2 years ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Did you ultimately determine the key size? I still have 2 days to order one if I don’t have it.
Thanks!

1/4” but it is very tight

#3616 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Were the lockdown bars built by Churchill as well?
Why didn't they just make the lockdown bar 1/4" shorter on the right for Houdini then to compensate, or whoever made the lockdown bars?

Thw lock down bar/front trim is the same lock down bar used forever. To retool the lock down bar would be far to costly.

#3617 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

1/4” but it is very tight

My guess is they solved the key sizing issue as mine from last weeks installs worked perfectly. And Bravo for the packing, clearly some protective planning went into the packaging on this one. Flawless.

#3618 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericc123:

I can hit the bottom and middle targets with no problem but I have never been able to hit the top target. I figured it was just me and my lack of skill.

I think it's physically impossible to hit the top target from a plunge. Will it score if you soft plunge and flip to hit it?

#3619 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Ok guys........ is anyone that has one abile to hit the two upper targets on the skill shot. I have been playing with the shooter and ball guide for a few hours to no avail.

This is the fix.

With a flat head screwdriver and a small rubber mallet.

Hit the flat rail right above the closest screw at the top.

Your goal is to move the flat rail closer to the post, when done correctly all targets can be hit.

The game never had a variable skill shot, therefor there was no need to insure all 3 targets could be hit. We have sense changed this policy moving forward, but all games out there might need a tweak!

CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH YOUR PLAYFIELD!!

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#3620 2 years ago

I have early production game #90. Im able to hit all skill shot targets. Now getting the skill shot is another story.
Soft plunge is the key. To much strength on plunge and it adds a velocity that is impossible to control.

#3621 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Soft plunge is the key. To much strength on plunge and it adds a velocity that is impossible to control.

I’ve hit it on multiple machines, and find I need a softer pull than for the middle target. But no doubt harder to do consistently then middle and lower.

Given the slight variations in how the flat rail is attached, Barry’s post about an adjustment may be required on some machines. As far as Barry’s other comment about no “variable skill shot” clearly he and production are not reading what has been on the white board in my office for months, then again, with my handwriting…

#3622 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

This is the fix.

With a flat head screwdriver and a small rubber mallet.

Hit the flat rail right above the closest screw at the top.

I'd lay something across the playfield, pad, newspaper, etc. So you don't accidentally slip and damage the playfield while doing this.

LTG : )

#3623 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

As far as Barry’s other comment about no “variable skill shot” clearly he and production are not reading what has been on the white board in my office for months, then again, with my handwriting…

Thats funny. Barry is a busy guy..that and you keep the door locked to your office with a sign that says no Barry and Joe B.

#3624 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

This is the fix.
With a flat head screwdriver and a small rubber mallet.
Hit the flat rail right above the closest screw at the top.
Your goal is to move the flat rail closer to the post, when done correctly all targets can be hit.
The game never had a variable skill shot, therefor there was no need to insure all 3 targets could be hit. We have sense changed this policy moving forward, but all games out there might need a tweak!
CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH YOUR PLAYFIELD!!

Where can I get that dope Conner4Real jacket in the pics?

#3625 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

Barry’s other comment about no “variable skill shot” clearly he and production are not reading what has been on the white board in my office for months, then again, with my handwriting…

Key here is "with my handwriting…" That there would need some WW2 code breakers. Talk about enigma!

#3626 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Key here is "with my handwriting…" That there would need some WW2 code breakers. Talk about enigma!

Well, at one point I did get a D in penmanship in elementary school, which is why parents figured I would become a doctor. I'd post a photo of what my white board looks like so, but, it does contain some top secret stuff.

Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

that and you keep the door locked to your office

no lock on the door, yet, will need one soon to keep prying eyes away.

Quoted from LTG:

I'd lay something across the playfield, pad,

Good advice, and considering on the assembly line we have pads that are custom cut to match the shape of the playfield, gives me one more think to give Barry crap about

#3627 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

gives me one more think to give Barry crap about

Glad to see someone else does this, too. I read back something I've typed and sometimes see I've typed "think" rather than "thing" and didn't even realize it. G and K are nowhere near on the keyboard, so I have to believe it's cross-wiring in my muscle memory while touch typing. Seeing you do it makes me realize this quirk is not specific to me.

#3628 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

That is correct.
6 degrees is where you want to be.

So all the way in on all 4 leg levelers? WOW. My rear levelers have been screwed out about 1-1/2 inches since day one.
There is no bubble level in the game to verify 6% degree angle, is there?

#3629 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So all the way in on all 4 leg levelers? WOW. My rear levelers have been screwed out about 1-1/2 inches since day one.
There is no bubble level in the game to verify 6% degree angle, is there?

Use one of the level apps on your phone?

#3630 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So all the way in on all 4 leg levelers?

That wil let you 6, which is what Joe likes for the game, and by adjusting the way the legs mount it insures it won't be to flat on location, where often they don't set the levelers. Obviously some folks like it a little steeper/faster, the key is to adjust the flipper strength to be 'just right', making it strong enough to make the ramp, but not too strong where you get air balls. 1 1/2 inches would be pretty steep. Be interesting to see what happens to your scores.

#3632 2 years ago

Played Houdini at Allentown. Fun game! Very well built. Felt very substantial compared to Batman that I played next.

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#3633 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I have early production game #90. Im able to hit all skill shot targets. Now getting the skill shot is another story.
Soft plunge is the key. To much strength on plunge and it adds a velocity that is impossible to control.

I can hit it as well no problem. As ericpinballfan said, the higher up the switches are, the softer the plunge - counter intuitive

#3634 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Where can I get that dope Conner4Real jacket in the pics?

Hah! All I also got from those pics was the insatiable urge to see the rest of that shirt/jacket... C'mon Barry - is that official AP wear?

#3635 2 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Thw lock down bar/front trim is the same lock down bar used forever. To retool the lock down bar would be far to costly.

So if the Churchill cabs are say 1/4" to short width wise, doesn't that make it even a tighter fit for the STD size playfield to go up and down?
Or was this "incorrect width" problem just the outside dimension, not affecting the inner dimension using thinner wood?
Did this cause the inside width of the cabinet to be a little less wide too?

#3636 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

That wil let you 6, which is what Joe likes for the game, and by adjusting the way the legs mount it insures it won't be to flat on location, where often they don't set the levelers. Obviously some folks like it a little steeper/faster, the key is to adjust the flipper strength to be 'just right', making it strong enough to make the ramp, but not too strong where you get air balls. 1 1/2 inches would be pretty steep. Be interesting to see what happens to your scores.

Well, my high score to date has been 618K on a 3 ball game so 1 Million plus, here I come!

-4
#3637 2 years ago

has anyone concerned about Houdinis tight shots considered downsizing 1/16" ?

ebay.com link » 50 1 Inch Paracord Monkey Fist Steel Ball Bearing Tactical Cores Balls

#3638 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I have early production game #90. Im able to hit all skill shot targets. Now getting the skill shot is another story.
Soft plunge is the key. To much strength on plunge and it adds a velocity that is impossible to control.

I have #92 and I have made all 3 skill shots. Now I have to make them more often!

#3639 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So if the Churchill cabs are say 1/4" to short width wise, doesn't that make it even a tighter fit for the STD size playfield to go up and down?
Or was this "incorrect width" problem just the outside dimension, not affecting the inner dimension using thinner wood?
Did this cause the inside width of the cabinet to be a little less wide too?

As stated above, the thickness of the wood is wrong. The front panel is still cut to the correct width, so therefore the playfield fit is no problem. The lockbar dimension is driven by front panel width + 2x side panel thickness

#3640 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So if the Churchill cabs are say 1/4" to short width wise, doesn't that make it even a tighter fit for the STD size playfield to go up and down?
Or was this "incorrect width" problem just the outside dimension, not affecting the inner dimension using thinner wood?
Did this cause the inside width of the cabinet to be a little less wide too?

Overall width since the perpendicular wood at each end of the cabinet (coin door wood and the back wood) spaces the inside properly.

But it did screw over AP with their coin doors. With a bill acceptor installed the door won't close because the coin box sits about 1/8"-1/4" too high (maybe because the coin door cutout is cut too low? It's not the door itself...that's a standard part.).

#3641 2 years ago

Josh was kind enough to provide some details on the Escape Modes. I've updated the Houdini Rule Sheet to include this information.

http://tiltforums.com/t/houdini-rulesheet/3934

#3642 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

So if the Churchill cabs are say 1/4" to short width wise, doesn't that make it even a tighter fit for the STD size playfield to go up and down?
Or was this "incorrect width" problem just the outside dimension, not affecting the inner dimension using thinner wood?
Did this cause the inside width of the cabinet to be a little less wide too?

They used metric wood. They kept the same inside dim., therefore with thinner wood... the outside dim. was smaller, hence the appearance of the lock down bar being too big.

#3643 2 years ago
Quoted from greenhornet:

has anyone concerned about Houdinis tight shots considered downsizing 1/16" ?
ebay.com link » 50 1 Inch Paracord Monkey Fist Steel Ball Bearing Tactical Cores Balls

"smaller balls" could cause unforeseen problems!

i.e. mechanical switches might not work as intended!

#3644 2 years ago

barryj i submitted a ticket online for support and have not heard back from anyone. Also with the cabs being smaller is there a way to at least recenter the lock down bar mechanism so it is offset properly for the smaller width?

#3645 2 years ago
Quoted from greenhornet:

has anyone concerned about Houdinis tight shots considered downsizing 1/16" ?
ebay.com link » 50 1 Inch Paracord Monkey Fist Steel Ball Bearing Tactical Cores Balls

No. That's like putting regular flippers on BSD. Play better.

#3646 2 years ago

Any way to buy a large Houdini pin poster? Would love one next to the pin when I get one.

#3648 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

barryj i submitted a ticket online for support and have not heard back from anyone. Also with the cabs being smaller is there a way to at least recenter the lock down bar mechanism so it is offset properly for the smaller width?

I asked the same question, as the gap in my machine is significant. Barry's response was the same as what Josh posted - gently bang it to the center.

It's not a perfect solution and I think that AP should correct for this by adding the hard plastic bumpers that vireland said came installed on AfMr's.

That said, it only took one firm whack from my palm to center the lockbar. Not sure whether I have to do that every time I replace the lockbar. Either way, it's not tragic.

I really enjoy the game and suspect that the small QC issues will be resolved over time. In addition to the lockbar, a free-floating screw was bouncing around the playfield (no scratching/damage) upon unboxing and the LED reflector came off after the first few games. In the future, a real manual and not a photocopied partial manual would be great and the speakers are really bad, but can be improved with the subwoofer. All of these things are minor nits, especially because of some of the smart decisions AP made in designing the game.

Offsetting the legs in front and back is incredibly smart, the machine is super-solid, and the artwork is just incredible. I really like the glass guides that prevent nicking and MDF shards like the small ones I have on my WOZRR. The gameplay gets better and better with Josh's releases, so overall I'm happy with the purchase and play. Yes, some shots are tight, but I'm no rockstar player and I can hit most of the shots reliably now that there are a 300 plays on the machine...just took some practice.

They're expensive toys and we want them be both perfect and customized for each of our wants/needs/desires, which is largely impossible. I'd encourage anyone that's on the fence about this game to go ahead, pull the trigger, and don't read too much into the small stuff posted on Pinside!

#3649 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

I asked the same question, as the gap in my machine is significant. Barry's response was the same as what Josh posted - gently bang it to the center.
It's not a perfect solution and I think that AP should correct for this by adding the hard plastic bumpers that vireland said came installed on AfMr's.
That said, it only took one firm whack from my palm to center the lockbar. Not sure whether I have to do that every time I replace the lockbar. Either way, it's not tragic.
I really enjoy the game and suspect that the small QC issues will be resolved over time. In addition to the lockbar, a free-floating screw was bouncing around the playfield (no scratching/damage) upon unboxing and the LED reflector came off after the first few games. In the future, a real manual and not a photocopied partial manual would be great and the speakers are really bad, but can be improved with the subwoofer. All of these things are minor nits, especially because of some of the smart decisions AP made in designing the game.
Offsetting the legs in front and back is incredibly smart, the machine is super-solid, and the artwork is just incredible. I really like the glass guides that prevent nicking and MDF shards like the small ones I have on my WOZRR. The gameplay gets better and better with Josh's releases, so overall I'm happy with the purchase and play. Yes, some shots are tight, but I'm no rockstar player and I can hit most of the shots reliably now that there are a 300 plays on the machine...just took some practice.
They're expensive toys and we want them be both perfect and customized for each of our wants/needs/desires, which is largely impossible. I'd encourage anyone that's on the fence about this game to go ahead, pull the trigger, and don't read too much into the small stuff posted on Pinside!

Problem with banging is it marks up the powder coat underneath. If you know the lock down bar is to wide and shifted to the right why not reposition locking mechanism a 1/8 inch to the left and then it will always be centered with no banging.

#3650 2 years ago

when I install the lockdown bar, I put it in until it is hitting the 'latch', then I pull the lever all the way to the left and slowly push down on the bar, centered on the machine, then I push down harder right in the middle (towards the front) until the lever releases back to the right on its own. When you 'force' the lever to lock it down it pulls it to the right If you let it close on its own, by pushing down, it will keep it centered. Does require having the set screws just right. Good thing is you should not have to be opening it up that often.

We are looking at adding the rubber inside the lockdown bars.

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