I want mine to say, "Oh your so good" "Your hot" "Your the man" "your the Best" "nobody plays as good as You!" .... Scratch that, then I will Know the game is insulting me by lying!

"Daily Affirmations" The pinball game!

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A host on our local radio show calls it “the wussification of America”. Everyone is so sensitive these days. Everyone gets a trophy. There are no losers; all winners. Even my beloved Dialed In gives me a “Participation Award” when I choke on a ball.

I like the ribbing. A little more variety may be nice. In the end, it’s just a game.

So it was during the mode that the stage opened? So far I have been unable to replicate the issue. If you can pull the logs and send to me, and note your best guess on date/time, I'll see if it can shed light.

When either of the outlane modes is running, the game is a very different state then normal, as it is pausing all game action and should be suppressing all switch events from flowing through all of the modes, etc. So some behaviors that happen normally are suppressed when in this modes.

No controversy, some people like to be insulted, some don't. I'll take all of the comments into consideration.

Well, there is a light show that bursts from the target you hit (whether a red or green), a fanfare plays and if you earned something other than points the narrator announces it.

I always took the “Participation Award” on DI as a rib too, it makes me mad!!

It's kinda like us B66 owners! When we drain at a crucial point,Robin usually makes a comment like Holy Disaster,or a GB when they say I take the blame!!

Same set up as the shaker ... Plug and play?

LED 3 on the ADD ON Board (far right board) should be on if ribbon connector is on correctly. If LED # isn't on then the ribbon connector is most likely installed correctly. LED 3 should always be on when power to the game is on.

833-API-HELP or call my cell 224-422-3191

Barry

PinballSTAR - PA distributor for American Pinball will be at Pinfest with several Houdinis ! Stop by play it and buy one ! : )

PinballSTAR will have our usual lineup of games from all the companies we sell for... Many in stock NIB, several below open for play... Final line up below... Oh and WE HAVE AN ALICE COOPER coming !!!

Jersey Jack Pinball - 2 NIB WOZ, 2 NIB Hobbit, 2 DI, 2 POTC
American Pinball - 3 Houdini
Chicago Gaming - 2 MMR, 2 AFMR, Coffee Table Foosball
Spooky Pinball - TNA, ACNC
VP Cabs - Wizard, 6 Vertigo, 3 Vortex

I am also preselling Invisiglass to have at the show - discounts for purchases over 3 sheets - email me for pricing and your needs. Will be delivered to show in a box safe for transit... I usually bring no extras - just what is pre-sold and pre-paid for. LAST CALL on the Invisiglass...

ALSO - I plan on maybe bringing some games for sale from my personal collection - not sure which ones yet... Depending on booth space might only bring if pre-sold.

PINBALL :
* Junkyard pinball - 1990's - beautiful collector quality example - pics in the Pinfest buy / sell post : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2018-buy-sell-trade/page/16#post-4357422
* Fire Queen - rare EM - great original condition - pics in the Pinfest buy / sell post : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2018-buy-sell-trade/page/16#post-4357422
* Flipper Pool pinball - 1960's - backglass animation - fully restored by the best there is for older games - Nick Raschilla, PA
* Grand Slam woodrail pinball - 1950's - fully restored by one of the best - Fabulous Fantasies, Herb Silvers, CA
* Rockola World Series pre-war pinball - 1935 - rare - fully restored by one of the best - Bill Heatherly, PA

VINTAGE ARCADE / GAMEROOM PIECES :
* Chicago Coin Goalee - 1950's 2 player hockey arcade game - original beautiful wood cabinet
* Genco Gypsy Grandma Fortune Teller - rarer / more desirable pedestal model - 1950's - fully restored.
* Pachinkio Slot Machine (Japanese)
* Paschislo Slot Machine (Japanese)
* (2) Diner Booths - used, could use a woodworker to restore to nicer condition
* Victor Topper gumball machine - fully restored
* Movie theater turnstile with base - black - fully restored
* Gamewell Fire Alarm Box
* Scopitone Video Jukebox - needs restoration
* Wurlitzer 1250 Jukebox from 1940 - rare machine that plays both 45's and 33's - fully restored by the Regan brothers, PA

If interested in anything email Joe at [email protected]

Everyone else's second fuse holder empty? Yes the board is designed for 2 different voltages. The only voltage being used right now is 12V for the LED on the start button and shaker motor if installed. the other empty fuse might be used for the 48V to run the knocker coil...but we are also testing a 12V knocker.. We have options!

Did you up the coil settings?

Run the knocker on 110V, get noticed ( - :

Come on by if your in the neighborhood, visitors are always welcomed!

I've been playing my Houdini for over a week now. I'm really enjoying the use of the spinner, especially in the needle stage mode. It's a switch hit mode that allows you to build up the value by hitting certain stand up targets. You can also build the value by starting the mode with the playifield/mode multipliers. Then you go for that spinner as much as possible. The switch hits have a cool sound effect that remind me of EM chimes and it sounds amazing with a solid spinner hit.

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The magic stand-ups and the red standup will increase the value for each it, so good to try to give those a few hits early on. Getting it up into the pops will pull a lot of needles like the spinner, but can sometimes get you a few hits on the red stand-up.

The mode seems a lot more lucrative now with the new code. I got over 800k without any milkcan multipliers, but I probably had 2x stage going.

I love the insults....too funny.
Maybe API can look into an optional tissue dispenser in case someone gets hurts feelings??

I like the insults. I would be nice to have a little variety in the callouts or not make a call out every time you miss. That’s all. Minor, minor, minor issue but we know you listen!

The starting value and the boost value were both raised int he last code release to get the typically performance of the mode to be more in line with other modes.

Loving the fame, but I want to push start and replay ball one when I have a crappy first ball. Also would like to bypass menus as I'm impatient at times.

So a slow reset and use flippers to kill animations has to be added to the code like on other games?

Love this option on my Dialed In. Hold the start button for 3 seconds to start over. I don’t use it often but useful for that really unfair ball 1.

I use it all the time on my AFMr and other games.

This just happened to me too. I also hit a ball in the scoop during seance and at the time the other ball drained out. The ball in the scoop just sat there and wouldn't kick out. The game kept playing music as if I still had a ball in play. I went into the switch test and the ball in the scoop was activating the switch. Seems like another bug.

I think holding both flipper does cancel animations and instructions. Certainly does for instructions screens. Also holding both flippers speeds up the end of ball bonus calculation.

Good to know!

I'll try to pull logs next time to actually be helpful, but I have lost balls in the scoop and the upper lock during both seance and trunk multiball. Most often in the scoop during seance. If has to go to ball search to continue and kick the ball of out of the scoop. I did check and all optos looks to be in good shape.

You can, on almost everything, with the major exception being the magic shop. You need to hold both flippers in for about a half second.

I've identified the issues behind both of these issues and the fixes are being tested. There will likely be a minor bug fix release with these and a couple of other minor tweaks in the next few days.

This is in progress but it is not reliable yet as far as properly resetting things.

How about a setting to kill the pops when both flippers are pressed.
It makes for a fun strategy on my woz.
I can coax the ball in a desirable direction via the pops by turning the flippers on and off.

Houdini on freeplay at Abel Electronics. We are a American Pinball and Jersey Jack distributor based out of Michigan. PM for availability of a Houdini.

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Hey Gary, does that 3-disc POTC need to go back to JJP since they've decided to replace it with a single disc?

Yes eventually.

Guess you can order one now!

That makes sense in WOZ when trying to start a qualified Haunted Scoring mode, no need to copy it in Houdini.

Josh, not sure if this is related but I just had a similar issue when I had a lot going on (movie mode, illusion, seance and trunk MB), I ended up down to one ball and wondered why my Seance was still going, there was one sitting in the shooter lane. No idea if that was a kick-out during ball-save or if it fed there via the outlane gap. Good thing it wasn't in tournament or league play I guess.

BTW - just discovered the light show for Seance Super Jackpot (I believe), at first I thought there was a major malfunction when the theater spots went out but it was a really well-done effect once I stopped freaking out.

Sounds like maybe you reached third stage of man from beyond, which shuts off the lights, spotlights alternate and a white pattern runs though the inserts. Of course if that was happening with a MB you would still get jackpot lightshows.

During multiball a ball in shooter lane should be kicked out, when not in MB if it finds it way there it will need to be plunged. It had been my plan is to give you a skill shot when that happens, I need to evaluate if that is still a good idea. I’ve not seen it not kick out when MB running, so curious what happened.

Not sure I see any benefit given that the desired action in pops is often for them to throw the ball into the stage, against escape targets, etc

Yep, I got to that stage of MFB again tonight and progressed a ways into it, didn't know that's what it was the first time. Very, very, very cool light-show and the way it is sync'd to the LCD display is different than I've seen done in any other game yet. Unfortunately I was by myself so no one else could see it in action (yet). Ball was definitely just sitting in the shooter lane though, I should have let the game end and plugged in a USB stick to grab the logs but I was too into the game at that point!

Any chance you could Misplace the spinner assembly for say 2 days so I can make one and correct the issue for future use? Actually not kidding, aside from the electronic board I could reverse engineer that in about a day. Would be SO cool to bring that back to life as an Underground type feature. Had to ask..

Received Houdini today after getting word last week it was shipping. Placed pre-order mid-October with JJ at Game Exchange for those curious on timing. So far so good and feels like a keeper! I adjusted coil down a notch on milk can as it was shooting a little high and need more time to figure out other adjustments that may be needed but looking forward to getting more time on this coming weekend!

No I did not. Are you telling me I need to UP the settings?
The Ball Scoop eject has been working perfectly. The balls that get stuck are ricochets from other places.

No,No...
Not to speak for Barry, but ive spoken with Barry several times.
Over setting the flippers can cause serious ricochet's...ie flippers above 23.
I suggest out of box set flippers to 21...play 30 games and up by 1 if need be. Never really a need to go above 22.

I know in a Gottlieb Gladiators I've played I used the function to disable the pops when I was in a timed mode and I want the ball back to my flippers for a shot I need to make real soon.
I don't know if it would be a nice thing to have in Houdini though (I never played that game, I hope that'll change someday ), but saving time, if it's not stopped when in pops, is one benefit I can think of. WOZ is different: that has more reasons to stop the pops. Maybe Gladiators has more reasons to stop the pops too, but I'd need to know the rules better :p

Something I talk about every day and we are working on plans, so hopefully sooner than later.

This would be an interesting use of it. I don't currently stop timers, part of my evaluation is when are you in the pops, because the rules are telling you to make a shot that can put your there (e.g. 'shoot key lane'), vs you are in the pops because you 'missed' your shot. In the former case there is a good argument to say "don't penalize the player for doing what you told them to do" and the latter, "it's you own fault, don't do that". So, assuming I do eventually add in a timer pause in pops, don't be surprised if it follows the above philosophy.

On rare occasion you may need more, based on the voltage in your home/location. But no doubt, Houdini will be even more 'brutal' if you have the flippers set to high.

Joe and I often different on coil settings. I will says that I feel the current default on slings is too low. You want them strong enough to get the occasional sling into the scoop or the milkcan loop. I think they should be one or two higher than the default (and will likely change the default). In some cases taking the pops up to two or three notches will increase the pop action and get some more bounce into the stage and the magic shop. It is a tricky balance, on coils, to be strong enough to get the action you want and not over strong where you can do damage, get air balls, etc. For example, the plastic under the planchette, has broken for several people. I've played far more games on my machine than anyone has, and we have some location games with thousands of plays that have not had that break, because the flipper strength was set at the right level to make all the shots and to minimize airballs.

Is there a 12 volt plug built in to run a topper... ?
Like mine to go on and off with my game!
If no... Is there a way to achieve this ?

Soldering iron ( - :

Owner / Operator vs. user. Have a skit on this, goes something like:

"If you spend more time playing your game than working on it... you might be a pinball user"

I must first remind you that hooking up a non approved electrical device to the games electrical system can void your warranty coverage on the electronics in the machine.

There is no plug for you to use for your topper. I can tell you unofficially that there is 12 volt power in the head where you could potentially tap into (I would wire in a connector and/or use a tap device vs wiring/soldering your topper directly). Keep in mind that depending on the power draw of the topper, you could create too much load to the 12V system that could result in issues, such as system reboots.

Thanks for your egomaniacal posts the are so helpful ...! Perhaps you are one of the reasons that people with viable questions or concerns stop posting on Pinside
Perhaps more time taking care of your 2 EMs and your MMRr would be a better way to go!