(Topic ID: 183206)
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Houdini
American Pinball, 2017
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Marlborough, MA
Quoted from mbwalker:Let me guess...you pressed Start immediately as the pin starts to announce "Houdini is in the house!"
Yeah, it doesn't happen if I wait for his handcuff image to appear before hitting start. But Ive been staring quick since August with no ill effect. SonI thought this was something new.
Quoted from mbwalker:I noticed the same thing after the code update and e-mailed Josh/Rosh so he's aware of it.
BTW, spent quite a number of weeks in Marlborough last summer for work! Probably 5-6 total.
Thanks for validating that. We actually have pinball in Marlborough now, at the Apex Entertainment Center. With my machines, a total of 7.
Quoted from Lilpro66:I wish there were a gate on the key lane as I am getting too many SDTM drains from there.
I need to try and bend the lane guide a little bit to see if I can get better results.
The ball guide has a bend in it neant to send thr ball to the right flipper. But I think slow balls are not affected by it. It may be possible to bend it out further. A forum member posted about that 19 or so oages ago. I am thinking of trying it
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yeah bend out the tab at the bottom a bit until it deflects onto the flipper.
Slow balls, just nudge a bit to get the tab to hit the ball.
Alternative is to play SDTM Chicken! Will the ball bounce clean off the post or slip down on the left of the post and into oblivion? Can it be tipped with the left flipper? Can I time a nudge just right? I win the chicken game about 55% of the time. Sort of fun in a frustrating way. Grrr.
Quoted from CUJO:Update:
I read some other comments since this post and my GF sometimes will hit start button twice when the new code is like 50% or more loaded so she gets a kick out of the pin "remembering" she pressed START twice for two players. That's when I noticed all the INSERT lights on very bright until Player One First Ball is played.
Delaying start after power-up will avoid the wacky lighting. Not sure if Josh is addressing this or not.
Quoted from zahner:In settings, check to see how many tasks you have to complete to earn a letter. Each individual task has the ability to have the number of completions set as low as two (2) to earn a letter to spell Houdini. Obviously there are many tasks, such as the escapes, films, etc. If they are set to, say, completing two (2) tasks to get a letter, you can burn through spelling Houdini pretty quick. I set it that way just to get to magician mode to check to see how the update affected the screen going blank during the master magician mode. I only had about half of the stage challenges done and only a couple of escapes. I had to them bump it up again to make getting the magician mode a bit more challenging.
The code has also built-in multifeature setting selections that range from very easy to very hard. You could try those. It accessed in the dashboard as a small circle at the bottom, so it is easy to overlook.
Quoted from finnflash:I have a couple questions after going through some settings.
1. I found a setting for stage eject that was off. When I turned it on and tested it, it did not eject a ball. Should it?
2. I noticed the metal guide under the trunk moves. When would the ball not be sent to the upper catapult? Seems like mine always goes to the catapult.
I have A 6 degree pitch and stage ball eject works about 60 percent of the time. The eject only is supposed to happen at certain modes, like milkcan escape. I think it all happens after card tossing.
Trip to Houdini museum in NYC today. It is biggest collection other than Copperfield's. Q is a repro. Metamorphosis trunk is original. Burned bits are from water torture tank. Body bag is "punishment suit." Bess dress is original. The owner knows about the pinball but doesnt have one.
http://www.houdinimuseumny.com/
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Quoted from SDTMinSTL:I know everyone is not into mods, but I thought this was kind of cool and didn't know anywhere else that would appreciate it.
I had an extra Eddie figure from Iron Maiden and decided to re-purpose his torso for my new-to-me Houdini playfield. I need to find some sort of small stand to mount it on but I am planning on putting it on the next flat surface behind the milk can. I snapped a photo post operation with the coping saw. Lol. [quoted image]
Always into this kind of creativity. Depending on how thick your figure is from front to back, you might also mount it on the horizontal plastic to the right of the trunk. The upper catapult that throws the ball into the right wireform easily clears an object pushed up snug against the backboard. I have a straightjacket torso velcroed there. It doesnt get hit or trap the ball. BTW, if you are looking for an iron maiden topper, check out all the Eddie masks offered by Trick or Treat Studios. https://www.trickortreatstudios.com/licensed-designs/iron-maiden.html
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Terrific idea! That is an even better spot than what I was considering.
Thanks for the mask link. Those are incredible.
Please post a pic of your mod when finished.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Is your straitjacket also from the Eddie figure ?
No, I bought the Hooked on Pinball version.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Request:
Add ball save to stage acts that launch ball from the shooter.
Or ball save at the beginning of each act for a few seconds to at least try and start the mode.
Even AFM has ball saves built in here and there to keep the game flowing.
I hate it when the ball outlanes without flipping it, off the shooter launch and it loses the ball and kills the act.
Or bounces off the slings and drains before you can flip it.
The game is challenging enough without the cheap drains.
A liberal ball save at the beginning of the encore after completing the 10 acts would be a nice touch incase you cant get control of the ball due to stage bounceouts.
This has nothing to do with making the game easier, just more fun.
I love the surprise of add-a-ball. The deadliest stage act is milkcan escape, very easy to drain the ball while shooting for that loop. So if you make the first shot, it would be fun and helpful to get an added ball to play with. If you drain at the start of milkcan escape, it would be merciful to get a ball save.
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Here it is. Good news, bad news scenario.
Good news; It fits perfect. Ball travel is uninterrupted after multiple plays. My home made stand puts it at a perfect level. The price was right (free, as I already had the Eddie figure in which I sourced it).
Bad news; It is not authentic looking. It has stains on it from the Eddie theme that are more fitting of a insane asylum member than a grand illusionist and entertainer. Ithe best part of the jacket is the back, as that's where the details are (buckles, straps). It doesn't look as good facing backwards.
Ymmv but I am super particular about this sort of thing. It is tough to justify not going all in when you spend the money we are on these machines. I like the looks of the hooked on pinball one. May have to give it a shot.
Photos below. I also posted a off subject wide shot of my machine in its spot. Lovin it. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like antiqued canvas, so feels appropriate to the machine. The themed setting you have is great. Copperfield would probably set his up the same way, if he had one.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My request had more to do with cheap drains than my bad skills as a player.
Balls often drain off the launch either via the random scoop exit or a bounce off the slings via a random shooter launch.
Fortunately the scoop eject has a built in ball save, its used all the time.
The shooter auto launch does not.
Stage acts are the main focus of the game.
To not be able to get one flip due to a cheap drain as soon as an act is started is unfair.
To not be able to flip a ball due to a random side drain, or more frustrating, a stage bounce out, when the encore starts is also unfair.
Due to the annoying stage bounceouts it often takes 2 or 3 direct hits to the stage to get it to stick. This is with flippers at +1.
It shouldnt be random to stick the stage from a direct clean shot.
A ball save would really help keep the game flowing.
I totally get it. I just read TWIP interview with Chris Franchi, who called Houdini a drain monster. But about the stage bounce outs...there are a couple of situations in the game in which the captive ball is lowered, and the live ball can be shot into the void, immediately disappearing into subway. It happens on the final shot of Vanishing elephant, for example. If Josh programmed this to happen more often, it would reduce bounce outs. I dont have a lot of drains from the automatic shooter. I did adjust the ball guide there early on to make the skill shots work better. Auto fire coil is at 10.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Get one! A way cheaper and more useful hobby than pinball. I recommend a Lulzbot for reliability and ease of use.
I tried out 3d printing in a tech school class, but the print lines/ridges were a big turnoff. I know they can be sanded and smoothed, but it is not something I want to do. I have a board game token I need scanned and printed, but don't know any small-job businesses who do this.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:there are tons of different printers, and depending on settings and the printer quality, you can minimize those lines. This was printed on the same model I have, which costs $200 (and a lot of tweaking)
[quoted image]
Wow, great detail in that! I assume the higher end machines render a smoother print, but I didnt want to spend 4 figures for one. Maybe someday.
Quoted from LTG:Switch Test - to check.
Check that the leaf blade switch is clean. A piece of paper between the blades, gently push blades together and pull paper out.
Check the plastic spoon the pop bumper skirt rod rests on - clean ? worn ? well centered ?
To adjust the leaf blade switch. The long top one with the plastic spoon should just be resting on, not pushing, the plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. The shorter lower one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't set it off.
A little tweaking and you'll be an expert at pop bumper leaf blade switch adjusting.
LTG : )
I made this adjustment tonight, pushing up the lower shorter blade switches so there is barely any gap. I hadn't thought about how bad my pops had gotten. A slow ball would actually roll halfway around the bumper skirt on its way to the key lane without setting off the pop. And I was like, meh. Now I known why I've been getting fewer magic shop visits and escapes, and couldn't complete Handcuff King. Don't let this happen to you! It is not normal or acceptable pop behavior.
Quoted from CUJO:I have never gotten that far into a game ...yet. Congrats!
Do you have it set for a 4 ball game?
Game ended at the end of ball 4.
Thanks. I've been playing 5 ball games to get deep into all the modes, but am planning to switch to 3, with an easy overall setting. The latest code has made it easier to get some letters via the magic standup targets. My best 5-ball score was a little over 6 million
1 week later
Am thinking of bringing Houdini to Pintastic New England, but I don't have a helper to move it this year. I'd set it up on Josh's extra easy setting so newbies can get a feel for it. But only three balls, because we dont want people waiting in line for 30 minutes.
Had a really productive game just now in which I finally dethroned rosh as Movie binge champ. Then I entered Master Magician mode and managed to complete 3 letters-worth of shots. But the interesting thing was that I earned a trunk multiball while paying the MM, and it happened just as I drained all but the last ball, which triggers the 60 second countdown to extinction. With the timely trunk multiball, I got a new lease on life and continued MM in multiball mode. What a reprieve! I hope that wasn't a fluke or bug, because it really can extend your MM play time. It would be great to be able to earn a Seance multiball too.
Quoted from LTG:A couple thoughts, if it isn't software related. Balls magnetized ? new balls or use this - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809
And please check the plunger that kicks the ball up out of the ball trough to the shooter lane. If the plunger is a tiny bit too high, it can prevent balls from rolling into position right. The coil/plunger is fastened to a bracket. That bracket is held to the end of the ball trough by four screws, which you can loosen to raise or lower the coil/plunger. Not too high or too low.
LTG : )
I have very occasional delays in the trough with Houdini, but on LOTR, the chrome balls Inwas using were not rolling down the trough. So I just replaced them. If this demagnetizer will work in Houdini and LOTR, I'd give it a try. Those Houdini magnets are potent.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Platypus:I continue to get two balls kick out of the scoop during jail escape and at other times. I sort of like the current code whether I deserve it or not
I havent had that happen with current code. Mynissue was the left lock releasing multuple balls. But that stopped when I restored the lighting levels to default full brightness.
I installed the EOS switches today because I was getting a lot of right flipper collapses during stacked multiballs. Will see how it works. You know, it would be great for a pinball show to have a hands-on tutorial for soldering. I can't possibly suck worse at that.
I have completed two stage mode finales -- when you get the Houdini chant after playing all 10 stage modes. If you drain, it continues on your next ball, helpfully. The final award, with bonus, was over 2 million. Once you finish the finale, you can replay stage modes that you failed before, and it will update your performance on the mini-screen status screen.
Thank you, pinballinreno, LTG, Konjurer and mbwalker for the soldering tips. I hadn't used flux, and not sure if my electrical solder is rosin core. I will look for that. I know I am supposed to heat the switch blade rather than the solder, but that never seems to work for me. So I try melting solder over the wire, which results in a mess. I would never even try soldering to a board. Yikes.
Quoted from mbwalker:I usually touch just a bit of solder to the tip just to start to help transfer the heat, then immediately add it to the joint. Kind of all happens all at once tho. I feel like I'm repeating the same comment - but lead free solder is harder to work with the higher melting point. Get some lead based solder, and some good flux - the solder will flow like hot butter. But the flux is not really needed since most solder has a rosin flux core.
You can always pre-tin the wire with solder. That may help. As pinballreno mentioned - practice some on wires, etc.
Great idea - coat the wire with solder first! I will practice that.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:it's pretty cool. It's a REALLY nice looking mod, and has RGB LEDs inside. The game changes the colors inside the mod during different modes. It's a bit subtle because the LEDs are inside the mod itself, and therefore don't call attention to themselves like an insert does, but it's still really cool. I'd like to see a bit of interactivity where the playfield mostly goes dark save for the mod, and make it really dramatic. It's great as-is; this would just kick it over the fence
Robert is waiting for wiring instructions from Josh to make this work. He will post it for us.
Quoted from PhantomO:I installed the EOS switches today because I was getting a lot of right flipper collapses during stacked multiballs. Will see how it works.
Unfortunately, despite the EOS switch, I still have an occasional mushy right flipper that collapses temporarily during multiball, usually with 4 or more balls in play. It is especially weird when playing stacked inverted straightjacket, when the flipper seems to hesitate halfway on its trajectory, like it is unsure which way to go. The unused 58 switch for EOS lights up when testing, so it was installed correctly. I guess I will live with it unless another solution presents.
Quoted from rosh:you can confirm it is working as desired by taking off the glass and during a game, press in the flipper button and then knock down the flipper by hand, it should pop back up.
Also, check/clean the flipper leaf switches
I tried this. Neither flipper will pop back up after being pushed down unless I release and repress the flipper button. The eos blades make contact when flipper is fully raised. I also pushed the blades together with my fingers while the flipper down, and nothing happened.
Hmmm. I am holding flipper button before, during and after flipper push-down. It just lays there. Looks like these are installed like the guide shows. First pic is flipper at rest, 2nd is flipper up, third is test screen with flipper up. It also shows board and wire info. Does something look wrong?
20190606_183119 (resized).jpg20190606_183130 (resized).jpg20190606_183950 (resized).jpgQuoted from bobukcat:Yes, the EOS is not registering in the Switch matrix, it should be Unused 14 or 58 depending on which side it is. Clean the switch contacts with a rough piece of paper like a business card and try again. If it still doesn't work I'd say you've got something wired incorrectly.
Sorry, I uploaded the wrong pic. This is the test with the right flipper bat pushed up manually. I get 58.
20190606_191305 (resized).jpgQuoted from pinballinreno:Start a game, dont launch the ball, press a flipper button.
Hold the flipper button.
Knock down a flipper manually.
It should come back up on own.
Do a real world test.
Yup, did all that. The flippers do not go back up until I release the flipper button and press it again.
The Hooked on Pinball water torture mod now runs factory programming from Josh. I posted a video of this. According to TWIP, this is the first after-market pinball mod to receive custom programming from the manufacturer. Watch how on Magician's Choice, the GI lighting turns dark and dramatically shows the blue tank illumination flashing when the water torture stage mode is showing or selected. The mod flashes again on completing the mode. When you get the mode without Magicians Choice, the mod flashes for the first shot and on completion. All other times it is lit solid.
Quoted from pinballinreno:You have it installed incorrectly.
Something is backwards.
If its correctly installed it must work.
Maybe I misunderstand something. When I push the button, the two eos blades are pressed together, making contact. I then force the flipper back to a resting position, while still pressing button. Doing so causes the eos blades to break contact. So why would the coil fire again and raise the flipper on its own, with the blades not in contact? If I manually press the blades together so the make contact again, then the coil fires and the flipper pops back up - left flipper does this faster than right flipper, for whatever reason. So based on this, what is not working right? I double checked the wiring and the left vs right, etc. Looks fine.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Very cool! Is this in the upcoming code update?
It is in the current version, and can be turned on or off. It is last on the features setting list. I didn't look yet at what happens when it is turned off. Probably just stays lit.
Quoted from Platypus:I made my milkcan lane adjustment yesterday. I pulled the lane guide and bent the curve to be a little deeper. Tolerances are tight here and I enlarged the mounting holes slightly to get it to fit back in.
I searched my shop for some Velcro stuff, couldn’t find it although I know I have some. I found some adhesive backed felt but they were small dots for use on cabinet doors. I also have some felt strips but much too thick.
Then I came across some thin textured rubber material, a 3M product intended for adding to stair treads. It’s very grippy and works great almost stopping the ball in the chute followed by a slow drop to the inlane.
After several shots into the milkcan chute I didn’t have a single reject. Now I just have to master the ramp.
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Great problem solving!. I used some felt pads, but I do seem to get some gravity-based drop outs from the loop entrances, which seem normal and justified.
Quoted from rosh:Let me clarify some things on EOS and how you need to test it to see if it is working.
If the Flipper button is held in, when the EOS switch opens, the game will re-fire the main power on the flipper coil. The best way to test that this is working is go into game play, hold in the flipper button and then throw the ball at the tip of the flipper and see if it fires back off. It will be pretty clear that it is not just a bounce off, but has some power behind it.
If you use your hands to push the flipper down, it is NOT going to fire back up. The re-fire is taking place after the flipper comes down just a little bit, but your hand pushing on it is going to be so much stronger, you will not even feel the re-fire. It will only attempt the re-fire the one time that the EOS opens (with flipper button depressed), so once it is pushed past the EOS and the re-fire happens it is not going to attempt it again.
If you just try to flick it down with a couple of fingers, you might be able to test it, but using the ball is the best way to do it.
You can only test the EOS re-fire is working, when in game play, not when in the service mode.
Yes, thank you for the clarification. You and bobukcat nailed it. If I push the flipper all the way down, it stays put. If I slap it halfway down, it rebounds quickly and forcefully. So it looks to be working as expected after all. Sorry about all my confused posts.
1 week later
In Joe Balcer's seminar at Pintastic today, he said the company is developing its iwn proprietary system because it is taxing the multimorphic system. Also API is considering a licensed title, but he still prefers unlicensed. He also said API is considering offering an LE edition in the future, but it would be truly limited, not 500 to 750. But he seemed to say it is likely the company will stick with one version, one price.
Quoted from John_I:Just recently installed the knocker. The bullet catch integration is SO COOL! Easy install and well worth the price.
Just ordered the knocker and new rubbers. Post rubber wear is looking bad after a year of play. Houdini purple doesn't seem to match third party post rubbers, and these are very thin, so getting direct from API.
Quoted from zahner:Any word on an update? I continue to have flipper issues, the occasional extra ball on the playfield [though, I'm not really complaining about the extra help], and most frustrating is the random end of ball thing. I'll be playing along, and then it just goes red, and the ball ends in the middle of play. Has anyone else had this issue? I've checked the through, and it seems fine - all optos registering fine, no dirt, etc. I can't think of anything else to check.
I havent had that issue since reloading the latest code and not messing with the newly adjustable spotlight lighting. Maybe you should try a reload until the next update.
Quoted from sgorsuch:I installed the latest code 19.4.7 on Houdini today, and I had an excellent game. The waiting around for the end of bonus is gone, and by pressing both flippers it is accelerated. I saw no glitches during play. I had my best accomplishment so far with 7 completed stage acts. I was hoping to get to the encore with a multiplier of 7 or more, but alas- i spelled Houdini too soon, and missed the encore.[quoted image]
I found that I can get the stage finale and avoid getting 7 houdini letters too soon by setting the letter-earning level for secret missions to 3. You wont likely complete the 3rd mission by accident, but rather, you really have to go for it once you want the last letter.
Quoted from meSz:Playing a game today and the following happened:
-I had Return From Beyond and was one letter (N) away from spelling SEANCE but the machine recognized it as if I spelled it out and let play resume even though the N was still flashing.
-Wire gate for ball through just broke. That's some cheap metal they used on those gates.
-During Bullet Catch my ball drained and ended Bullet Catch but for some reason the machine kicked out a ball from the scoop and continued play as opposed to the turn/ball ending.
On Return, you can earn a letter by hitting a magic target. That may be what happened to you to give you rhe final letter.
Bullet catch becomes a 2 ball multiball at a certain point, but shuts down the mode once you drain one of the balls. The ball aerved drom the scoop may have been your remaining ball.
I haven't broken any gates in a year of use, but both flipper springs broke. Too powerful flippers can be a cause for breaks, hut but probably not the trough gate.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I had a great game last night.
I had man from beyond, seance and trunk multiball running at the same time.
I completed all of them but had quite a few right flipper collapses.
A couple thoughts on the code.
Doing all of the stage acts should be one of the things to accomplish before master magician is enabled.
It doesn't make sense that one could be a master magician and not have played all the acts.
One of the Houdini letters should be reserved for doing all the acts.
Master magician should have a pause built in do you can read the screen before it starts, this would help.
Do you have the eos switches installed? I love the stage finale, but you can set the level of the stage letter award to be 10. That way, you don't get a letter till you play them all. The stage finale would still happen after the letter is awarded. By the way, can you increase the stage finale score by hitting the red flashing targets before sinking the ball in the stage? Its not clear what to do there. MM mode instructions are not that helpful. I shot a video of them. Just shoot all the flashing colors and keep at least 2 balls rolling. And if you are lucky, get a trunk multiball during the mode.
Quoted from sebseb12:I can not put 10 in the menu, it seems that 5 is the maximum for the number of mission to obtain a letter.
I see. I thought it was possible, but I guess it is the 2nd stage letter that can be set for 10.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Only_Pinball:Very cool. We have a Blue & Gold and Scarlet Macaws. The Scarlet loves to hang out on his T stand and watch us play. The Blue & Gold however is not a fan.
Those are beauties. I was always a Scarlet fan.
Quoted from meSz:How are people adjusting the catapult? Mine is missing more often then
The main thing that has worked for most people is to add the optional power supply and to widen the screw holes in the bracket that attaches catapult coil to the bottom of the playfield.The wider holes give you room to shift the mechanism slightly left or right to get it centered properly on the middle of the trunk. The holes in the metal bracket can be widened carefully with a dremel tool. There are posts that show this in this thread. Search the thread for the word dremel. I readjusted mine yesterday, coincidentally. First time since last summer, because the shot started missing to the right. It is now ok. Fingers Xed.
Quoted from Rascal_H:One last thing I want to check is the number of extra balls I’m being awarded. I think I got like 3 extra balls on ball one. Too many! Lol
I like the humor in the game... magicians hat shout outs to Spooky, JJP, and Stern.
You can earn up to 9 extra balls. Settings allow you to set the limit lower, and make it harder to earn them. IF you reach MM mode, you lose any extra balls you have pending.
Quoted from kdecgp:Was it already a known thing that if you hit the ramp again after the milkcan multiplier combo it will increase to the next level without hitting the milkcan loop again? I just noticed that while playing today. I'm going to add it to my strategy.
Also, dudes mentioned using zip ties to prevent airballs from getting stuck behind the seance planchette and the milkcan. Any tips on placement?
I wondered why the ramp flashed after milkcan shot. I thought that it may have been necessary to make the ramp to complete the the multiplier or to extend the time it is in effect. Thanks for discovering that it grants an additional multiplier.
Quoted from kdecgp:I'm thinking my new strategy is playing Elephant mode like it's the second level of Milkcan mode.
What strategy is that? I never make the elephant. If only it would accept partial ramp shots...
Coincidentally got Great Jail Escape and Movie Binge back to back. The jail wizard mode is timed, but you only need to make 5 shots. After I completed the mode, I could play jail escapes again, but the green links all stayed lit.Movie binge gave no verbal instructions, but you have to make each movie shot 3 times to complete the mode. It adds balls if you complete movies. The mode ends when you lose your last ball. I dont think it is timed, but there was a stuck timer showing on the mini screen while I played the binge. I drained my last two balls, but the mode continued and gave me a ball back after a ball search. Not sure if this happens consistently or not. I completed all but 1 movie. The movie links did not stay lit like the escape links did, probably because I failed to complete. I hope this helps folks trying to understand how these fun mini magician modes work.
20190731_191856 (resized).jpgQuoted from meSz:Lets hope as the flipper issue is annoying as hell. IMO it's the biggest problem with Houdini. I've done the EOS, power supply, cleaned contacts, messed with settings, knock down the flippers and still have the flippers give out.
It is persistent. I have EOS and power supply, but my right flipper can hesitate or stutter during multiball and straight jacket inverted mode. Never affects the left. After more than a half year of perfect trunk shots, the ball is hitting the front lip on 27, and 28 sends it wide right. Not sure why now other than heavy ac use
Quoted from pinballinreno:Has your power changed a bit for the summer?
Also consider cleaning the coil sleeve on the catapult.
Will try a cleaning, thanks.
Quoted from KingHebes:So a bad power supply is the main issue? And the cannon shot missing is related to that? What's the flipper issue people have mentioned? Why doesnt American pinball start installing the upgraded power supply on their machines if it is an issue? Anything else i missed or should know about? Thanks.
The optional power supply has been needed only by a minority of buyers, mostly in Northeast. It solves trunk shot variability, tho you may still need to line the shot up a little better with an easy dremel fix. THE eos switches help with flipper collapse, but it is not a 100% fix for everyone. Finally, there are some situations where the game can lose track of balls in a multiball mode. This is rare and is related to the software operating system not processing the ball action fast enough. The scoop can also be inconsistent in shooting out the ball, but that adds an element of chance. And some have had the scoop eject damage the wood, so a cliffy protector is recommended. I have had the game a year, and once the trunk shot was fixed, I have enjoyed this game more than any other I have owned. It is challenging, deep, has a million settings to customize with and it looks awesome.
Quoted from creech927:Has anyone else had issues with the small LCD screen on the playfield above the theater? Mine's gone out. Doesn't show anything (not on boot or anything else) Verified power at black/yellow lines going into display board 11.89vdc at the pins on the display board. I asked AP for assistance and they sent me a document to reseat the ribbon cable edge connector, which I followed and got nothing. Also reseated the video input cables. Is there anything else to try? It's on location and not earning.. :/
I have had it black out momentarily, but not go out fully. That ribbon cable reseat is next to impossible to do right. I had the screen swapped out. Can you check the other end of the video cables to see if they are still connected?
Noticed these weird lightning bugs on the playfield when cleaning today. Also spotted The Babe in the far corner of right blade art. He is harder to see than Capone or Tesla. Anyone know who this beauty in white is or the freaky little dude?
20190811_163030 (resized).jpg20190811_163137 (resized).jpg20190811_163143 (resized).jpg20190811_163454 (resized).jpg20190811_163439 (resized).jpgQuoted from sgorsuch:My best guess on the female is Josephine Baker.
I think you nailed it! She was french and would have been around 20 at the time.
images (resized).jpegI thoroughly cleaned the flipper switches and coil sleeves, but my right flipper still spazzes in inverted straitjacket mode with stacked multiball. It will get momentarily stuck in the down position and vibrates there. Odd.
Quoted from bobukcat:Yeah, have definitely never had reset issues even before the power supply upgrade. Might want to give Barry a call and do some troubleshooting with him.
I recall triggering some unexpected resets when I accidentally hit the start button with my knee during an in progress game. Was sitting on a stool.
Quoted from kdecgp:My new GC. I've been making sure to play at least a half hour a day after work for about three weeks. This game went from 200k to 3.9 million from an incredible 2x bullet catch with trunk multiball then extending it with seance. My new goal is beating all modes in one game. I've gotten to the last mode once but died ignominiously. I'm finding the best way to hit the right flipper is on the edge of the button nearest to the backbox. Somehow that slips it into the sweet spot. I also love the key target shot to open the stage in one shot. Love it. It's kinda like that grill bonus shot on Diner.[quoted image]
I love the way the crowd goes wild when you are killing it on bullet catch.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Had a great game on houdini tonight. Finally got around it moving the C target to the left and whoa Nellie what a difference that makes I can now consistently hit that inner loop shot and not have it rattle around and dribble back down! Catapult is still not hitting though. I don’t think it’s made it in the last 50 throws although it is hitting the same spot now with the upgraded power supply... I’m trying to find the definitive instructions but the thread is so long and is super frustrating!
Do a search on the word dremel in the thread. That should get you to the post explaining how to widen three or four holes in the metal coil bracket which gives you some aiming capability for the catapult.
1 week later
Quoted from bobukcat:Related to a discussion of Houdini production count on another thread, what's the highest serial number that any of the owners in this thread has? I know it's not mine because it was pretty early production.
I have seen some numbers in the low 400s. Havent seen or heard of any in the 500s. The numbers are associated with the back boxes and they didnt necessarily ship out in exact numerical order, by the way.
Quoted from kdecgp:I want a "Who says you can't take it with you" type meltdown when you get over 100k bonus. Even just reusing the "HOLY S#1T" callout would work. I know this ain't a heavily weighted bonus game but still. Yer in that post-mortem afterglow taking a sip knowing it's probably a huge bonus. Just a little extra tweak on the nipple. I used to think 20k was a big bonus.
Right now I'm in that area where I just waxed the playfield and the game is kicking my ass all over again. I had a movie binge where I completely beefed everything and died with no points. That was on a 2.5 million game. If I could've done anything I'd probably've busted that brand new GC by about a million. Thankfully I'm in my own house so nobody saw or heard me bein' all pissy and incredulous. Beer helped. Y'know how you start monologuin' when a game starts looking hopeful.
My favorite part of freshly waxing the pf is how many more ramps I hit as opposed to it rollin' halfway up and coming back to the left flipper. Shit's screamin' like a damn Steve Ritchie game. I'm also reiteratin' how useful the left orbit to neutral right flipper into the milkcan loop is. It ain't guaranteed but when you trust it and it melts into the loop settin' you up for an easy inlane into the ramp pf multiplier. BEAUTY
Is there a secret mission mini wizard mode if you complete all the combos? I've only done the first three missions. I like how if you complete on a magic target you have to requalify the scoop. Keeps me from cheesing it. Left target is definitely easiest.
I've got my extra balls set on 2 combos, 4 escapes and default everything else. I have had nine ball games. The King of Cards EB is damn near a gimme now. I've also finally hit the back ring after the EB. You have to throw the opposite hand to where it's coming from to even have a chance. I kinda wish there was a multiball cancel option from magic shop locks. Sometimes you just don't want to pop it yet.
Loving this game.
How about if in waterwheel if you hit the milkcan loop and rip the spinner it counts for double spins? I'm thinking of a bunch of different contextual milkcan combos. Like milkcan into seance gives you 2x seance jackpots. Maybe even milkcan clean into stage could be 3x mode? Milkcan into ball 3 lock could increase base jackpot.
Sounds like you are giving Houdini a thorough workout. I have never topped 3 missions in a game in more than a year of ownership. The stage encore is best I can get.
2 weeks later
Quoted from MightyGrave:me too... one second full power and next second half of the power, noticeable mainly on the left flipper.
Played another machine with no problems.... Maybe they had a beta code ord a meanwellpowersupply?
There must be a difference on the this and our machines.
With me it is the right flipper, usually once every time I play straight jacket with stacked multiball.
1 month later
I know many of us have occasional flipper and ball-count problems, which may be due to power and operating system lag. But I'd be content with the game even if there were no more major updates. The modes, user-adjustable features/difficulty/coil strengths, light shows, music, add-on accessories, and high-scoring strategies are all fine as is. I would rather see the API team getting out a few new pins so they have money flowing in and can be a viable industry player.
Here is a transcript of the Houdini master magician mode instructions. Some aspects may have changed in later software updates...
Time to show your mastery of all things Houdini
With reversed and inverted flippers and a 60 second ball save…
1. Spell Séance in order – two hits per letter (light blue)
2. Spell ESCAPE, shoot Jail, then complete all 5 shots (green)
3. Shoot 10 red stage shots – Earn original mode points (red)
4. Lock three balls in trunk – lock stays lit (teal)
5. 75 magic shop spins (yellow)
6. Shoot five blue movie shots – earn original film mode points (dark blue)
Shots light when associated stage shot is lit
Chimping flippers reduces ball save time
Phase 2
Once you are down to a single ball, you have 60 seconds to complete the above objectives and complete at least one combo (pink). The longest length combo you complete sets final multiplier and determines your final level of mastery. Once time runs out, your test is over. Are you a master magician? Let’s find out.
My notes on game play: Following these instructions, there is a progress report screen showing stage modes, Séance, Trunk multiball, magic shop visits (with #75 showing over the hat), films, jail (with a score superimposed in the circle) and combos. As you play, the screen updates the circles, showing progress. The stage modes are also indicated by a screen shot with the score collected. As each task is completed, a Houdini letter will appear over the task’s circle – H over stage modes, O over Séance, U over trunk, etc. If you get all 7 letters, I assume you are designated a Master Magician. Note that I don’t think it is necessary to spell Séance in order – I have completed this task, and there is no way I spelled it in order. Just two hits per target in any order will work.
Houdini MM rules (resized).JPGMy left flipper coil started to rapid fire when I hold the button in. I checked the EOS switch and it was closed. But after prying it apart, got the same problem. I swapped the left coil with the right flipper coil, and the problem shifted to the right flipper. So, using Holmes-type deductive reasoning, I named the coil as the culprit and ordered two new coils from API. I am so glad for the solderless connections on these. Do new machines from other companies come with the lugless coils?
Quoted from LTG:See the thin wires from the coil winding to the lugs ? Dig around them. Most likely one is cracked or broken. Easy fix.
LTG : )
Easy if I could solder worth a damn. That's a good call, though, because one of the EOS mounting screws had fallen out, which may have put strain on the wiring.
Quoted from LTG:Youtube - how to solder - lots of short videos, how to heat joint and flow solder.
!0 minutes of practice and you'll be a pro.
LTG : )
I will dig into these because now I have to solder a coik for the LOTR sword lock. Why do these all break at the same time?
Quoted from riggy469:You should come check out the Western Mass Pinball Club in Palmer. Not terribly far from you, and lots of knowledgeable people who could probably help with minor soldering stuff if you can transport the broken stuff there. We are always looking for more people to swing by and check the place out.
You may even meet other people from out your way that could help you in house.
Good to know, thanks!
Quoted from LTG:Yes. You could separate the two wires and coat with something non conductive to shield them. Repair the top one if it's cracked through. Use the coil as a spare.
LTG : )
Will try, thanks. Gotta see what caused that wear so it doesnt happen again.
Curious about the Houdini stage finale, reached after playing all 10 stage modes. Does it matter how long it takes you to shoot the stage? There doesnt seem to be a countdown, and even if you drain first, the mode is still live on your next ball. So wondering if the bonus score is higher if you hit the stage faster? Or if it helps to hit the escape targets first, which are flashing red?
Quoted from multibrawlr:The Encore Bonus value is unaffected by how long it takes for you to shoot the stage. You just either collect it at normal value by shooting the stage directly, or double value if you make it through the Stage Alley shot.
Great to know, thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from PhantomO:Here is a transcript of the Houdini master magician mode instructions. Some aspects may have changed in later software updates...
Time to show your mastery of all things Houdini
With reversed and inverted flippers and a 60 second ball save…
1. Spell Séance in order – two hits per letter (light blue)
2. Spell ESCAPE, shoot Jail, then complete all 5 shots (green)
3. Shoot 10 red stage shots – Earn original mode points (red)
4. Lock three balls in trunk – lock stays lit (teal)
5. 75 magic shop spins (yellow)
6. Shoot five blue movie shots – earn original film mode points (dark blue)
Shots light when associated stage shot is lit
Chimping flippers reduces ball save time
Phase 2
Once you are down to a single ball, you have 60 seconds to complete the above objectives and complete at least one combo (pink). The longest length combo you complete sets final multiplier and determines your final level of mastery. Once time runs out, your test is over. Are you a master magician? Let’s find out.
My notes on game play: Following these instructions, there is a progress report screen showing stage modes, Séance, Trunk multiball, magic shop visits (with #75 showing over the hat), films, jail (with a score superimposed in the circle) and combos. As you play, the screen updates the circles, showing progress. The stage modes are also indicated by a screen shot with the score collected. As each task is completed, a Houdini letter will appear over the task’s circle – H over stage modes, O over Séance, U over trunk, etc. If you get all 7 letters, I assume you are designated a Master Magician. Note that I don’t think it is necessary to spell Séance in order – I have completed this task, and there is no way I spelled it in order. Just two hits per target in any order will work.[quoted image]
I need to correct something I surmised above. I now do think it is necessary to spell SEANCE, in order, as instructed. To do this with reversed and inverted flippers with multiball running is beyond possibility, so I don't think any of us will be crowned master magician unless someone hacks the code or Josh revises it. I think ti would be reasonably to collect three hits per seance letter in ANY order, to complete that requirement in the mode.
1 week later
Quoted from MMP:Yes that feature was introduced last update, but I used it and had reported false drains, etc that were tied to the dimming code apparently. Those bugs disappeared after I put dimming back to default.
Dimming feature introduces a ball handling bug. It is reversible by reloading the latest code, but my advice is dont use any of the light dimming settings made available with the latest code. It is not worth the trouble it will cause you.
1 week later
Quoted from zahner:Although it’s not a big deal for me, is there anybody else having reset issues? On occasion my game resets when things get complex. For example, the other night I had “the great jail escape“ and “séance” mode stacked. All of a sudden, the game reset. This happens somewhat rarely and only when stacking, but I wondered if others experience this, and if folks think it’s related to something a code update would fix.
Also, Is it true that API is unveiling its next game at the Texas show? I’m set to go, so I’m really curious to hear if this is accurate.
I havent had any resets, though I probably never had anything stacked with Great Jail Escape...
2 weeks later
Had a weird game today. After achieving and completing the ramp escape, I was not allowed any further escape modes even though I spelled escape and landed in the hat hole multiple times. Has this happened to anyone else?
2 weeks later
My game stopped registering ramp shots, which I have a hard enough time making as it is. The test shows the ramp entrance opto working, and it makes the buzzing sound. But it doesnt register in the game as a made shot. I sent a note to Barry.
My ramp shots were not being credited because the front of stage opto switch was mistakenly registering due to ramp vibration or being loose. Barry helped me tighten the opto so it stopped registering accidentally.
I hope it stays put. The shaker motor seems to be loosing thing up. I also had to realign the trunk catapult mech also.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Its not a geometry thing.
Its a concept thing.
A lot of modes depend on the ramp. You should be able to make the ramp from either flipper in order for it to be fun. Its not.
Its a main attraction that lets you down due to its difficulty.
I can make the ramp easily with flipper power way up to max, but then you get 90% stage rejects.
So. In essence, the ramp isnt as fun as it should be.
So im thinking a redesign of the ramp or stage mech.
The rest if the game seems fine to me.
Totally agree with your point on ramp being so important for modes, yet so tough to make consistently. That just frustrates.
Quoted from Nick36:How did you go about realigning your catapult mech?
I used the technique of dremeling the bracket screw holes to allow a shift to the side. See pinballreno post above.
2 weeks later
Quoted from LTG:They could do an Olympics pin, based on the original games. Where the athletes were nude.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Guys, be damn careful jumping the hurdles. Go high. Real high.
Winter games would make a fun machine. Pinball bobsled, shoot the hockey goal and get it past Tretiak, A slalom wireform....
1 month later
I tried the Beta but had too much ball confusion. Shots to the scoop to activate first combo missions resulted in the ball just sitting in the scoop and never coming out. This happened at start of 3 games. I like the new light shows but I don't think this is playable yet.
1 week later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mine is still running strong!
I had an issue with dead shots in the scoop, but Josh diagnosed it and is fixing. I also saw some delays on callouts that werent happening in the old code. I am playing the 4.19 code for now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Playing a bit of Houdini on the Beta code this week.
Still no annoying issues, or anything worse than before.
One thing, I was cryng about the ramp being used as just a decoration, impossible to make etc...
Ok, I broke down and raised my left flipper power 1 notch...
Amazing difference!!! I can actually make the ramp fairly consistantly from a cradled position.
This comes with getting way more stage rejects from the left flipper.
Balls rocket off it like it was rubber lol.
Stage alley 2x lane no longer drops in cleanly etc.. much harder to hit, ball is travelling faster.
Keylane easier to hit!
As a solution, just make the stage from the right!
Its not perfect but then again it wasnt before lol.
So far this has opened up my game dramatically from where it was.
So, just like many other games, asymmetric flipper settings
Enjoying it again for the first time in a long time!
I also raised the left flipper to recently to 24. It seems to make my scoop shot harder more than anything else.
Will someone explain pleae how movie binge works? The numbers start at 3 and goo up as you make shots, then go down as you make shots. Occasioinally one of the posters looms at you. I notice it adds balls after certain shots. Just not sure what is happening. Thanks.
1 week later
Quoted from seenev:Really? It felt a lot more unstable to me. The magic shop animations were usually out of sync. At least once per game I would have to wait for the ball search mode to realize that a ball was in a hole somewhere. The flow of the game definitely felt broken up. I'll try it again when it's out of beta.
I had similar issues as you with the lag, but only played 5 or 6 games before reverting to previous code. Might be situational or temporary.
1 week later
Seems to me that Escape from Death would be more viable and fun if you could collect letters by also hitting the magic targets..which are lit. I have done so, but not gotten letters. Also by sinking the ball into the magic shop hole. Otherwise, it takes a miracle.
Quoted from sgorsuch:Hmmm- hitting the Magic Targets is about the only way I can collect the letters A,P,E for EFD.
I must be hitting magic targets too lightly to get the letters.
1 month later
Note about trunk catapult adjustment. I have noticed that after working fine all winter and spring at a 29 coil setting, the catapult started coming up short and hitting the lip of the trunk. This coincided with the start up of my central AC unit. This can't be a coincidence. Yes I have the upgraded ppwer unit installed. I raised coil to 30, and it shoots off to the right of the trunk, a common problem when coil power is too high. I was able to correct this by adjusting the angle of the mech. I had previously widened the screw holes in the coil bracket. I have had to make this positioning adjustment a few times over two years. I think the screws loosen over time and the angle shifts on its own. That is a drawback of widening the holes.
1 week later
Quoted from 27dnast:For those of you that ordered a power supply upgrade... how did you go about getting the $150 credit? Did you have to order the upgrade and then wait for a code? Or did AP issue you a code, allowing you to bulk order everything at once?
I recall that the code was provided with the order summary. If not, you can ask for it after your order and they will send it in an email. It is easiest to apply it to subsequent orders, not the actual power supply order.
3 weeks later
Quoted from RobF:Yesterday, I made it to Master Magician. I have to say the final mode was a bit of a letdown. After failing to complete the tasks listed on the screen (two pages worth?!?), the game ended. I had 2 balls left and was one illusion away from completing them all. If I understand correctly, once those are complete there is a very large points award (was it something like 10M?). It felt like the final wizard mode kind of screwed me out of a much higher score. Which was important because I finally knocked my son's GC off the top. An extra 10M would have really rubbed it in! It wasn't exactly what I consider a rewarding accomplishment.
I was a bit keyed up on having such a good game and the info was flying too quickly to catch. Am I off base here? Is this an area that is addressed in the current beta code?
Think of it as a game-ending bonus mode. I try to avoid it till I can get to the mini modes like all-jail escape or movie binge. All 10 magic modes is a great goal also. I find it easy to avoid getting the pink combo letter if you want to stave off master magician. MM is not makeable by mere humans because it requires spelling seance in order twice to complete.
Quoted from bobukcat:Here's an interesting question for anyone that experiences intermittent flipper collapses / weakness during heavy load: Have you ever seen it happen during reverse and inverted flipper mode (normally in Strait Jacket if you choose that option)?? I'm not sure I have but I'm also not sure I haven't. When I get a chance I'm going to pull the glass and keep putting it in that mode along with Seance then block the drain and play it extensively as a test. The only thing I can think of this (if they don't have issues during inverted mode) would indicate is that the flipper buttons may be causing it but mine have been cleaned and adjusted so many times I've lost count. It may show that the issue is not power supply related though.
It has happened to me in reverse inverted mode
Always the right flipper only.
1 month later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Part 2:
After adjusting coils to get everything set the way i like it, i decided to play a few games myself.
Remember, my game is highly tweaked and adjusted, it plays really well.
I will know immediately if something is off.
First game was a throw away.
Everything played as it should, trunk catapult was deadly accurate. Scoop never missed a beat.
I played terribly but got trunk and seance to run at the same time.
No flipper collapse. No trunk misses, no scoop problems.
I only got the knocker up and running today so, i hadn't heard it in action.
Game 2.
I played much better!
Went through a few modes early on.
Got seance, trunk multiball plus bullet catch running at the same time.
Wow, I LOVE THE KNOCKER!!!!
It goes off exactly when you want it to, and is amazing in bullet catch!
Extra ball knocker, replay knocker, I love it! If you dont have it. You're missing out lol.
No resets, trunk deadly accurate. Scoop running perfectly.
Everything seems a bit more energetic.
Around act 7. I lost the music but the game played ok.
I started a movie mode and the music came back over time.
I started seance plus trunk multiball. Trunk was perfect. Game had good energy and speed.
After all balls drained. One was left in the scoop.
Seance didnt end and the ball stayed in the scoop until a ball search kicked it out.
Seance stayed on s bit longer and then ended after i made a few more shots.
This was a 40 min game.!
I didn't finish all the stage acts this game but had 4 extra balls with the knocker ! Amazing!
All in all the game performed better than ever.
No flipper collapse today at all.
I think the capacitor really makes the game better and way more stable.
Losing audio and losing track of a ball happens once in awhile.
I have to say that this is code related. My switches are perfect
Other than a couple small code snags. I can say that my game has never played better.
Im very happy with the capacitor and knocker.
Sounds promising. Thanks for the update. I have one of these capacitors on the way. My right flipper collapse is most common during inverted straightjacket stacked with some other multiball. My trunk shot is missed (shorted) more than not during multiball. I have had knocker for quite a while set mid level.
1 week later
I installed the capacitor, and as others experienced, I got a power boost on the coils.Trunk shot and scoop behave more like they are supposed to, even with shaker, central AC running and spotty New England summer power. Trunk shots made it in during stacked multiballs, which wasnt happening at all prior. Unfortunately, I still have flipper collapse during inverted straightjacket with stacked multiball. Also.missed a trunk shot. There must be something about inverted flippers ...
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from Deez:Man this game pisses me off so bad. I like games that are tough but the geometry on this just feels broken to me. I've tried playing with the pitch, dropped the flipper, tried adjusting the coil strength. At this point I think the shots are just poorly designed. The lock shot, milk can and stage alley feel impossible to make intentionally. It is upsetting because the game seems to be loaded with code but being unable to hit the shots consistently means I'll never be able to see it. What's weird is my ball times are fine it's just a series of bricked shots which just doesn't equate to fun.
I'm going to continue trying to tweak and give it a chance but I'm seeing now why this game gets so much hate and I'm starting to believe it's justified.
Another thing that helps is to move the post target on the left side of the inner loop shot slightly to the left, toward the ramp shot. This gives a little more space to make the inner loop but doesnt hurt the ramp shot. The ramp entrance is actually the broken geometry. It is hard to make because the shot needs to be precisely aimed and powerful. I have played 45 minute games with 6 houdini letters and only made the ramp shot 5 or 6 times the whole game. Milkcan was meant to be a lucky or rare shot. But ramp is essential and is just in the wrong spot at the wrong angle. But you do get better at all shots the more you play. I almost always get the inner loop when it matters.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Raise the power on the left flipper 1 notch or until you can just make the ramp, without the ball falling into the hole, from a cradled position.
Once you find the shot on the left flipper, its amazing.
Hmm. Not sure how you are shooting that. My shots immediately out of the left flipper cradle head to the stage. If I let it roll out of the cradle before shooting, I am again basically aiming for that narrow spot on the flipper than lines up with the ramp. Also, cradling the ball after making the milkcan would be pretty tough, and, as you know, you need a milkcan/ramp combo to get the playfield multiplier.
2 weeks later
My scoop just started kicking out two balls instead of one pretty consistently at the start of modes. Since it wasn't happening before (on the most recent non-beta code), I wonder if it is something with the scoop switch that can be adjusted?
Quoted from bobukcat:To start try shortening the setting for the right lock release in the coils settings, unlike most of the coil settings this is a timing setting rather than strength. Also make sure your balls aren't magnetized.
Thanks for the suggestions. I checked -- balls are not magnetized. I checked the optos and they are good. I tried setting the lock release timing to 4 instead of factory 6, and it seems to have worked. Got to play some more to see.
Quoted from PhantomO:Thanks for the suggestions. I checked -- balls are not magnetized. I checked the optos and they are good. I tried setting the lock release timing to 4 instead of factory 6, and it seems to have worked. Got to play some more to see.
Update: Still getting double ball kickouts from the scoop despite speeding up the lock post. At Rosh's suggestion, I took a look at the sleeve. I hopethis is the culprit.
20201219_191758 (resized).jpgQuoted from zahner:Wow. What the heck? What causes that?
I dunno. I had that happen to the lower catapult sleeve too. Chewed up. But the scoop is ejecting correctly now.
More maintenance fun - my pop bumper ring was loose and floppy. Looks like the thread section of the post sheered off (lower one in the photo). There were no washers on it either, unlike the other post, which had two. I will have to get another, plus the machine ate one of the bronze colored screws for the bumper cap. Those screws are not at all sensitive to magnets, fyi.
20201219_205607 (resized).jpg20201219_211053 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from MightyGrave:Still Hope the new Code will fix the Power Problem with the flippers... Still struggling with it... and not much fun to Play atm with Flipperpower loss
The coil capacitor reduced my flipper collapses by 75% per game. I can tolerate it now. It is mainly on inverted flipper multiball modes.
3 weeks later
Played the new code and, after failing at master magician mode, the game reset. Sent logs to Josh. Second game I started bullet catch and added seance multiball and the mode went crazy, awarding dozens of bullet catches. Then the game reset. These were 5 ball games.
Quoted from mbwalker:I've been reluctant to ever switch over to 5 because I didn't want to wipe out out my current score (despite only ever reaching 2.6M). Not sure about extra balls - haven't been in the settings for maybe a year.
I have been at 5 ball, but will try the new code at 3 ball, hoping it might be more stable that way since that is how people tested the beta, I assume.
Can anyone confirm that, with the 21.1.21 code, jail escape starts instantly when you make the final letter by sinking the ball in the magic shop hole? In the old code, you made the final letter, then had to reenter the magic shop to start the escape.
Quoted from Freddykaboodle:Hey guys, noticed this little bugger coming undone today, was keeping the trunk lid open getting caught on the rear panel, might be worth a tighten during maintenance...
[quoted image][quoted image]
This exact thing happened to me early on, twice. I added locktite the last time, and it hasn't loosened again in over a year.
1 month later
UPDATE: This happend after Encore, and Josh has fixed it for next release......I have encountered a milkcan bug late in high-scoring games 3 times on the latest software. As soon as I start milkcan mode, the game freezes, does a ball search, stops all music and the mode stays active indefinitely even if completed. After losing the ball, the game ends.
2 months later
I didn't know if it was possible to earn two Great Jail Escapes in one game, but I found out it is, and I completed both. The second I finished just as I drained my final ball. It awarded 18 million plus. That gave me a new Grand Champion score of 29 million, and most efficient magician. I guess we can assume you can get a 2nd movie binge as well.
1 month later
Quoted from Scoot:My first Houdini mod.
[quoted image]
What adhesive did you use? I wonder if ball hits will cause red fibers to come loose and spread around the machine.
1 week later
Quoted from PoMC:Hi everyone, I'm considering joining the Houdini club by trading for one. Hesitant to do it because I want to play the game, not constantly tweak it or have to upgrade parts, power supplies or anything.
This is a Nov 2018 build. What can anyone tell me to look for so that fixes have already been performed, etc?
I think I'd enjoy playing the game for sure, my wife won't, but whatever - she has her Medieval Madness. But I want to enjoy playing and not have a frequent project on my hands.
Thanks!
I tweaked and upgraded my early build for a year or two. It was my first new pin, and a learning experience. It was never frustrating, and the design makes it easy to work on. I placed 2 calls to the tech team for help since 2017. Never had any problem with stage motor. The fun factor has been constant. If you like this type of machine, it is worth dialing it in.
2 months later
Quoted from gibsonrd:I just legitimately got to master magician. Really cool mode. The only bummer is at the end the game resets without letting you put your name in. Is that intentional?
Congrats! There is a setting in the latest software thst allows you to continue the game after MMm. Set it now for next time.
8 months later
I am at Pintastic New England, looking at some used Hot Wheels machines. Unlike the Houdinis, they don't seem to have ball dimples all over their playfields. Was dimpling unique to the Houdini playfields? Are the newer APs using harder surfaces?
Quoted from zahner:Not me. I too have an early first run. Mine has finally evened out, but it was looking like a copper cup for a Moscow Mule for a while. I heard they had two PF manufacturers. You could apparently tell by the lenses.
I mentioned this to David Fix, and he said the early Mirco fields had issues, but the Baden(sp?) were good, and that's what I have.
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