Sounds fun. Sorry for the sudden initiation. It's an awesome game, and I've gotten into mine deeper than I've wanted a few times, but it never was too bad. I say go for it yourself. It may not be as bad as it sounds.

Anyone else having a hard time with the flippers feeling weak at the end / tip? I have the EOS switch and power supply installed along with the latest code. The flippers seem to work fine if I’m hitting from the middle, but if I’m hitting from the end while the ball is coming down they feel weak. They aren’t slipping and if I hit it in the middle it’s fine, it’s just shots from the tip of the flipper that feel quite a bit different. I can’t up the power too much as the ball will bounce out of the stage at any higher power level. Thoughts on what I may have set up wrong? It’s very different from the same shots on a Stern or Jersey Jack where there seams to be a lot more consistency wherever the ball hits on the flipper.

Do you have the coil enhancement upgrade? It solves tons of things.

I experience similar and I have the upgraded PSU, EOS and Capacitor.

Get the Coil performance kit

https://store.american-pinball.com/products/kit0006-00?_pos=37&_sid=66f83f515&_ss=r

I have the updated coil performance flipper kit. I have anything installed, still experience weakness at the end of each flipper compared to the middle. It’s a really odd feel. Almost feels like the flipper slips, but it definitely isn’t’

Adjust the EOS switches so they open the last 3/16" of the flipper stroke.

Thank you for the help. Can you explain a little further because I'm not clear on how to adjust the eos

Mine broke too. I was an early adopter and it broke fairly early while under warranty.

I have the AP instructions for removal/replacement (not just the stage, but of everything needed). Wasn't bad, just take a ton of pictures to help document.

Shoot me a PM w/your email and I'll forward the pdf.

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Pull out the playfield and rest it on its yellow bars so that you can see under the playfield.

adjust the EOS switch gap (with needle nose piers or an adjustment tool) so that it closes just before the flipper reaches the end of its stroke. Make small bends of the switch's copper blades or "leafs" close to the body of the switch for the best results.

You can move the flipper bat manually to see when the EOS switch opens and closes.

I just found out tonigjht that Josh was no longer with American Pinball.
(Yeah, I'm way behind on things)..

He was great and always did so much to help the end user directlywith Houdini, allowing users to Beta Test, etc.
Very uncommon in todays world.

Anyway, I miss not seeing him on the board anymore.

Anyone now where or what he has moved on too?

Really helpful explanation. Thank you

Ironically, JOSH wrote the Houdini code to emulate the EOS switches in software. The first 500 machines or so didn't even ship with the hardware or wiring and early adopters had to add the EOS leafs and wiring (He did it in software using a timing sequence. After ~1ms of any flipper being energized initially, he reduced the power cycle of that coil to HOLD-IT in)

Houdini was certainly not the first machine to ever be designed without EOS switches on the flippers, Data East did that with Solid State flipper games forever ago. They only started offering the kits and added the switch logic due to customer complaints about the flipper collapses.

I really enjoy my Houdini game. It’s the game I play the most of my collection. I find it brutally difficult.

I have a text display bug on “combo misssion 2” , missing text, then is cut off. Mission 1 displays perfectly.

Couldn’t tell you if mission 3 is correct as I have never made it that far.

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Yeah, that's a reported bug they are aware of. I'm pretty sure it's not on Mission 3 but I don't think I've ever made it to #4 to check that one. I should make it a priority to try to reach that one day.

When is this game going to be run again?

Does anyone know if it'll be the full deluxe version? There was talk about a stripped down version (don't want that).

Nobody's talking dates at API as they are running LOV right now, but several of the distributors are collecting deposits on the CLASSIC and DELUXE versions right now. That said, I get a sinking feeling that in the spring or so API will run the DELUXE version only and force people to pony up to it if they want a machine. I hope I am wrong since the classic version is so desireable as shipped. (and yes, there were some pictures posted of a stripped down version mostly by eliminating the theater stage, but not sure how many versions they can support in manufacturing at API and they would be financially inclined to do everything they can to force buyers up to the DELUXE version since the profitability of it is much higher.

Long answer to "WHEN?", but I would guess MARCH 2023 (since they have been running LOV for awhile now).

Thank you Mark

I'm hoping that they will be announcing the next machine before too long and need to be reserving space on the production lines for that one

It appears they just did a run of OKT as several distributors are advertising new stock of that game for sale.

AP's talk of adding a "Classic" (whatever the hell that means) has made their terminology confusing for the trim levels of their games. If you look at what Distributors are currently advertising for pre-order spots for Houdini there is a Standard and Deluxe with the Deluxe adding the interior art, shaker, knocker, Steampunk Flippers, Magic Glass and topper. This is from Maine Home Rec's listing and to my recolection it's the first time the flipper toppers have been broken out as being only on the deluxe but then again I got mine when the game was first released and there was only one version and everything else got added on later.

Standard = Classic in APs new offerings going forward.

...So will they remove the Stage and 4.3" screen or won't they in their 'new' "Standard" Edition??? Time will tell. The Distributors' listings for the CLASSIC could all be wrong and based on the non-Deluxe model that they USED to sell.

Ugg, I hope not! Seems like a predatory move to force existing buyers with deposits already in place (like me) to upgrade to the DELUXE version if they want those two core features..

They can't get LOVs built or GTF released, how would they have time to make such major changes to Houdini (5 year old title) just to sell a few more? Does anyone really think they can sell even 200 of a stripped down version because it's $800 or so less? I doubt they'd sell 50 of them but I guess I could be wrong. If you compare the current Standard (no shaker, knocker, art blades, magic glass) to a Stern Pro you're getting a hell of a value for very little extra money and the Deluxe is cheaper than a Stern Premium.

I agree, anyone who wants a Houdini has likely bought one already or can get a HUO copy. If I were American I would be concentrating on leveraging Nordman's new designs and getting those out as soon as possible. That's the future of the company at the moment.

My best guess is they will reveal/launch at Texas Pinball in late March but I'd love to see something earlier and I think it would benefit them to grab some hype and sales before other companies are launching their new pins too.

Looking to possibly get a Houdini in the next week from a local trade. Very excited because I love the artwork and have enjoyed playing this game on location in the past.

Based on my initial research, it sounds like AP released a fairly substantial code update last year. Are the major code changes in that release summarized somewhere? I am interested to learn how the game has been refined since the last time I played it (2019 I believe).

Appreciate it!

All of the AP releases come with a comprehensive changelog. Here is the latest Houdini.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KRuL1sV2mgxqJG0zIwBi_YZ7ZFn-Apu1/view

Excellent! Thanks much

Co-op mode was the biggie in that last build, displaying what FILM mode is ready was another one that I thought was really important.

Just joined the club through a local trade. Got game home, turned on, and have a few initial issues I’m hoping this group can help troubleshoot. During my first game, inner loop shots were being stopped by the up post, and not released. The game added another ball to play, and then that got that one stuck back there too. Looks like that uppost is stuck in that position. Below is a photo of the coil assembly under the playfield. I tried testing the coil but nothing was happening.

The second issue is that when I cycled power on my game, the main back glass display LCD has no signal and is black.

Appreciate any and all fix suggestions.

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Figured it out. HDMI cable was undone in back box. The A6 cable was undone under playfield. All seems to be working now.

So….the coil test on the “Left Lock Release” is now firing, but during games, balls are being locked here, but will not release, even after the game finishes. Guessing this is abnormal. Would this be an issue with the staged ball sensors here? This is a photo after my game completed.

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The switch test shows that “Left Lock 1” is engaged while the ball is locked.

Question - is this game designed to hold balls in this location between games? If so, then this is just my first time owning a game that doesn’t release all ball locks when the game ends. Thanks for clarifying!

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It is normal for the ball/balls to remain in this position between games. Josh, once posted that part of the design of the game was to have balls originate from different places, as if magically appearing from out of nowhere. Just another cool design aspect of his work in my opinion.

Thank you for confirming. Would have spent hours troubleshooting a non-issue. Appreciate it man.

and for what i remember, i think you have a setup to release the balls on every game (or it was Oktoberfest !?)

I don't remember there being a setting to release all balls at the end of a game but I could be wrong. The game will also hold a ball in the subway to release and be ejected from the VUK at certain times. This leads me to what is still my biggest pet peeve in Houdini - during a multiball you can hit the scoop that should add Seance MB but if a ball is entering the VUK from the subway it won't recognize it and award the shot. I think they could have added an opto at the scoop entrance to resolve this but the timing would still be a bit tricky. It certainly doesn't stop me from loving the game, every rose has it's thorns, right?

The release of balls at end of game is an Oktoberfest feature, with settings for each lock, partially because of lack stealing on the barrel, and wanting the option to be able to start fresh at the start of a game, if desired vs not knowing how many might be locked. Keeping them locked in coaster also let’s you start games quicker as not waiting on balls to go down the long wire form (this each lock with own setting)

Balls entering and leaving the scoop during mB tricky for game to know exactly what is what, given the potential for fall backs on failed ejects, which is a challenge even when not in MB, which is also why I’m not sure an opto going in would help as it would likely still be triggered by fall backs.

Multiple major updates since then, So be sure to read further down the release notes to see previous updates.

Still having intermittent backbox LCD issues. Hoping someone here can help eliminate them. Issue is at initial game power-up. LCD turns on blue, says "HDMI" for about 5 seconds. The system then beeps, and the blue screen will say "No Signal" before going black. The rest of the game will power up and I will have audio and lower mini LCD screen on playfield is working.

Removed the backglass and reseated all of the cables going to the screen. With game powered on, removing and replacing the HDMI connections does nothing. Most of the time however, removing and reconnecting the rear-most USB connection seems to do the trick. The LCD will then start working again.

I even lifted the playfield and checked the connections from the cables coming from the backbox. Everything seems snug.

Unfortunately that workaround only seems to work for that power cycle, and if I turn off and on again, same issue with black LCD.

Anyone else ever have a similar issue? No I am wondering if I might just have a bad cable somewhere. The game was just moved into my basement and set up, so at first I thought it might have just been a loose connection. Now that I have gone through what I believe to be all the AV-related connections and checked, game LCD is still problematic.

Thanks in advance!

Houdini owners - I haven’t been able to find a machine to play yet so I’m asking you…

I’ve heard that Houdini has tight/punishing shots. How would you compare it to games like TMNT or Walking Dead with a similar reputation?

How hard is it (compared to other games) to get to the Wizard mode? It seems like you have a lot of goals to get there. I can get to TZ Lost in the Zone or AFM Rule the Universe once in a while for instance.

Thanks! I should finally be able to play a Houdini in January if all goes well.

tanx
almost i know i'm not fool (just a bit old ! lol !!!)

Seems like full ball release between games should be added to Houdini code if anyone ever picks up the code authoring at API again…

I'd try a different HDMI cable, easy thing to swap and the most likely culprit. As far as the USB cables, one goes to P-roc, and if that disconnects the game would reboot and the other goes to the coin door and has nothing attached - so neither directly tie to video, so if messing with USB cables fixes stuff, could be an issue with the computer -- hopefully just the cable.

I own all 3 games. TWD (pro), TMNT (prem) and of course Houdini.

Each game has it’s tight shots. On TMNT the 2 shots from the upper flipper are tight and not easy to hit. The game itself is cluttered and that’s what makes it a bit punishing on the brick shots.

TWD has one tightish shot, the Riot loop beside the prison. It can be a hard shot to hit if not dialed in. The hard rep for TWD is from the uncontrolled shooting of the drop targets which are a necessity to advance in the game. Shooting the drops is not a safe thing to do. The exit from the pops can also drive you to drink with too many center drains.

Houdini is just an absolute fantastic game. I don’t find it overly brutal. The inner loop is visually tight but still can be made. Milkcan loop is a good challenging shot too.

Lots to do on all 3 games. I am not consistent enough to reach a wizard mode on any of them. TZ LITZ, I’ll get about every 5th game or so.

You’ll love your Houdini when you get it!!

Loving the first few days of Houdini ownership. Bricked a lot of shots until I dialed in game leveling and flipper coil strength. Had 2 back-to-back games last night over 20 minutes in length with scores just over 2MM. Really great deep ruleset. Expect this to be in the collection for some time!

I do have a handful of ruleset questions that I have yet to figure out through the streams or reading this thread (up to page 46). Hoping to get some clarification on the following:

- What exactly do the 2 Magic targets qualify?

- How do you qualify the 2 out lane ball save modes?

- What's the purpose of the inner loop shot when trunk lock isn't qualified (and no modes running)?

- Does the inner loop up-post have a purpose other than holding balls to release later for staging? Looks like 3 balls can be held here, but have only seen 1 at a time.

- What does the light in the ramp lantern plastic indicate? Just another colored indicator of shot (matching ramp arrow LED color)?

- What qualifies the trunk ball lock?

- What is the objective of trunk multiball (jackpots & super jackpots)?

- How long do playfield multipliers achieved via milkcan/ramp combos last?

- I have enabled team play from the menu. How do I start a team game from the attract screen?

Thanks in advance!

you might want to filter and read all of my posts, which is about 4 pages vs all 288 pages in the thread.

I'll answer a few, I'm sure others will pipe in with answers on others

magic Targets are you friend, but what they do depends on what is happening in the game, they might give you escape letters, in a stage mode it will take care of the next shot, it might give seance letters or help with a secret mission. Its color will tell you what aspect of the game it will help you with.

outlane modes are lit by completing Jail Escapes (escape death) and Seance MB jackpots (return from beyond) and can also be awarded at the magic Shop (which will then bounce with from side to side on flips).

Inner loop is where you start FILM modes, when lit. Ideally you want to always light it, via FILM letters, before making third lock so as to start both The FILM mode and trunk multiball together together. When not lit for lock, it will increase trunk multiball jackpot values.

team play -- once enabled in settings, a screen in attract tells you how to start games with team play.

Thanks for the details Josh!

Really great job with the code on this. You should be very proud! In my opinion it is the perfect blend of novice vs. pro achievement goals. Excited to really learn the strategy and start stacking those mode/multiball combinations.

Happy holidays

Cool thing about Houdini is there are several mini-wizard modes you can work towards, not just Master Magician.

Very valuable insights, thanks so much!

I recently had to replace the stage curtain servo. Thanks to all who helped me get through that.

Since the, the stage screen has been less that 100%. Although it mostly displays correctly during the stage modes, I get a lot of black screen and blue screen at other times. While I'm sure I could open things up again and start poking around, has anyone else experienced this and gotten it straightened out?