Here is an AP Tech Tips video that instructs how to calibrate the stage:

The theater is an opto switch, the catapult is a physical switch, check both in switch test mode and be sure to use a ball and not just your finger for the catapult one.

Is the catapult throwing or that is not happening until ball search?
If catapult is not firing, go into switch test and let a ball roll down the wireworm into the catapult and see of the switch registers, if not adjusted, gently.

It if is firing, and it is after the ball goes into the trunk, then the issue is likely an opto in the subway or an opto the lock mech at the end of the subway. Go into switch test, drop a ball through the trunk, pulling back the diverter so it goes into the subway. You should get several switch triggers, should look something like . . .

IMG_5853 (resized).JPG

in this case it bounced at the so the right lock 1 is showing twice. If a switch in this list did not show, that's likely the issue.

Leveling is critical on this game.

Glass off the playfield pitch should sit at 6 to 6.2 degrees, no more.

Horizontal level should be as level as you can get it.

My game is at 6.15 degrees and plays perfectly.

Oddly my stage eject only started working when I lowered the pitch below 6.2 degrees.

My flipper power is up a little from factory settings but not so much that a direct hit to the open stage doesnt bounce out.

My left flipper can make the ramp shot from a cradled position without falling into the hole.

It makes it but barely. I can get the ball to whip around the ramp at stronger settings, but then its too strong to make successful stage shots.

My wall power is pretty constant at 118v

My issues have been resolved. Thank you everyone. American pinball customer service/tech support is the best I’ve ever experienced. Makes me want to buy all of their games. Whoever runs their business model, big kudos!!!!

All three of our games are very different, in both rules and layout, by design.

Houdini and Okto are mode oriented games, Houdini has 15 between the stage and movies and Oktoberfest has 13. Both have multiple other objectives as well, so plenty of breadth.

Both games feature two main multiballs, with Seance on Houdini being easiest to start, by far. Houdini also has and three modes that either are or have MB potential (Bullet Catch, Man from Beyond and Straitjacket), while Oktoberfest has just one mode with MB (juggling). Both games have at least one mini-wizard mode with a MB (Duck Derby in Okto, Movie Binge in Houdini) as well as the main wizard mode. Both allow stacking of MB on modes, but only Houdini allows MB stacking on MBs, with three different triple stacks possible.

Oktoberfest has a very unique layout, with a ton of targets, and a rule set that really takes advantage of that as many modes are very distinct in which shots you are going for. Oktoberfest also feels a little more relaxed when you are playing it and makes you smile. The steins add a lot of layers to Oktoberfest as they give you so many different ways to approach the game and different strategies to try. I could easily list a dozen different ways to use the steins in very different approaches to the game.

Houdini is a bit more intense and challenging as far as making shots. But as others have said, the shots are no tighter than many other games, but when stepping up to the game, it takes a few games to get a feel for the shots. Once you get the feel, it provides a heart pounding playing experience.

As someone said, both make great use of magnets. Both also have multiple physical ball locks.

Can anyone tell me what they set their coil strength to for the catapults? For example, I had to increase my coil strength for the upper catapult so it would make it up to the ramp. Just wondering if there is a sweet spot for both of the catapults. Thank you!!!

Wall power can affect settings a bit. So no 2 games are exactly the same.

Its really a matter of dialing it in as you go, making small adjustments at a time until the game feels right.

I have a lot of posts in this thread on adjustments that I made when my game was brand new.

Some of the early posts about variacs and such are meaningless now, after upgrading early power supplies and the recent capacitor uodate.

But there is some good info there on general adjustments, especially on dialing in the catapult.

I noticed this today as I was playing. Does anyone see what I see?

20210814_213034 (resized).jpg

I see "it".....

It should be If.

The 2nd It in the line should have a lower case "i"...

Grammer police deputy enforcement....

…and a comma.

By any chance does anyone know where I can purchase the mate-n-lock y connector with spade ends for the topper? I have a pre 2021 built game and the new in box topper I purchased didn’t come with the connector. I don’t mind purchasing it but I can’t find where to.

Trunk Mulit Ball….business up the front, party at the rear….

I'll take care of it. Sorry that didn't get included in the box.

Changed stage door servo . The door stopped halfway and didn't move anymore. The servo didn't make any noise. Easy change to do. After install the stage door was like butter. Played 3 games. Next day. Stage stopped halfway servo was still trying to open. I shut machine down.

Dug a little further into stage and the door barely was able to be opened by hand. It was really bound up. ( yes the servo was disconnected). Check some of the stage mounts one screw was loose tighten that up seems to make it easier. Nope servo still can't do it. Stage keeps getting racked.

I notice the door has allot of slop in it. I removes the scoop below it to see what it spins on. The grommet or whatever you call it had a crack in it and was pushed all the way out. I got it back in and reassemble . Still goes of track and starts binding.

Anyone else have this before? Is it just a grommet change?

Thats a job for API support.

Call Dave.

Check to make sure the welds on the stage door is OK. I replaced the servo only to find out the stage welds had broke.
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Thank you. You guys are the best. Please let me know if I owe anything for the cable and shipping.

My Houdini has returned from beyond! Antek sent me a replacement module. I will fix the dead module with the replacement buck converter that should show up today so I have a backup. That power supply is heavy! I removed the entire supply since you have to access the underside anyway. I agree that getting the thick stranded wires from toroid reseated is a challenge.

1. Power off and unplug game.
2. Remove High Voltage Cover.
3. Unplug power supply connector.
4. Loosen screws and pull out 5v/ground/12v wires. (red, black, yellow) I do not have 48v wires attached since I previously upgraded to switching power supply.
5. Remove 4 bolts that hold power supply unit to cabinet.
6. Lift power supply out of the cabinet. [Deceivingly heavy, probably 20 lbs. all by itself]
7. On the back/underside of power supply unit, remove 4 Philips head screws that holds the module in place.
8. Loosen screws and pull out the 2 Toroid wires from module. I found it easiest to pull the module out slightly for access.
9. Slot in the new module and reverse the steps above. Likely easiest to reconnect the thick Toroid wires while the module is not screwed in place.

If you don't have 48V attached, then taking it out definitely the way to go. I used forceps to get the wires back in on the toroid side, with the module already mounted. Those connectors on the board are fragile. Pretty sure you only need to remove two bolts, the other two just need to be loosened and then it slides out from under them. Glad you are back up and running.

I don't remember seeing it like that. I do know it drags as it tries to open or close. It wobbles on it axis point pretty bad. The bushing isn't in and when push in and assemble it slides out or partially out.

Very excited to be an owner of Houdini. I couldn't find one in Utah to play but for months I couldn't shake the desire for this pin.

PXL_20210821_191547033 (resized).jpg

Its an awesome game!

I saw it at TPF and had to order one.

Im very happy with the current development of this game.

API has done wonders with it.

I'm in the club!! Woohoo!
Born on date 2018, told it has updated power supply.
I like my games steep and fast.
So my question is...
Any harm in turning the power way up on
Flippers
Pops
And slings?

Game seems to be alot more to my liking that way. Also my wife fell in love with this game instantly. Quoting her here...
" I can see this game becoming my favorite"

You may have more bounce outs from the stage and difficulty with the ramp shot. Also, some have issues with the catapult if it’s too steep. Give it shot and see. Really important for it to be level.

Set the game at 6.2 degrees pitch, no more than that. It will become evident "why" later on as you learn the game.

level the game horizontally.

Set the flippers + 2 from the default, see how it plays.

lower the slings -1 or -2 from factory.

I've turned flippers to max
Pops and slings up +4 from factory
Legs in back up mid way.(makes trunk every time)
And yes the game is leveled side to side.
For me factory settings equal way to slow for me.
My question is will it hurt the game to have these coils turned up this high?

No, but the stage shots will bounce out all the time making it difficult to play the stage acts.

I have had it that way and it was fun but, hard to progress thru the modes.

On the plus side its easy to make the ramp.

The biggest danger is probably to the small SEANCE targets as they are pretty close and you'll probably get many more airballs when you drill those with the flipper cranked but otherwise I don't see significant potential for damage to the game. Flipper coils may overheat and get sluggish on longer games - that's probably the biggest negative to your setup.

Turning up the pop coils too high could result in damage to the ornamental locks

Yes, heating of coils is my main worry.

With the flippers cranked all the way up I still feel it wont damage anything on playfield. They still feel a little weak to me. Shots to orbits and ramp are still really slow. With both not making it all the way 30% of the time. Game is like new so not sure what the problem is.

Slings and pops turned up really throws the ball around the way I like. Feel way more powerful than the flippers.

Is there anything else i can do to make the flippers snappier. Feel mushy now almost as if there's lag or the hold is not strong enough.

Thanks for all the responses. Machine is absolutely gorgeous, and the content of things to do is phenominal ! imo.

Does your game have this installed?

https://store.american-pinball.com/products/kit0006-00

I couldn't really see what you were showing as a big cookie window appeared. I browse on my personal phone and I try not to allow cookies.
I'm assuming it might of showed cooling fans? If so I never play more than 2 games in a row on any one machine. This flipper feel is right at the start when game is first turned on.

it's:

Houdini Pinball Coil Performance Improvement Kit Installation Instructions: https://www.american-pinball.com/support/ Houdini - Electrical
Availability: In stock
SKU: KIT0006-00
Type: Parts & Accessories

The link is for the installation instructions.

I had to dial down my flipper strength after installing.

Basically a big cap. I think you need to make sure your power supply is upgraded if you have an older machine like mine. The folks at American Pinball are quite helpful and will assist if you have any question

IMG_2402_900x (resized).jpeg

Most of our numerous games get only 100-200 plays a year cuz only the wife and I play. Hopefully with the low use not to harmful. Looked at my specs again to be sure.

Flippers 29 +7
Pops. 15 +3
Slings. 10 +6

I've also put in a request to buy the coil improvement kit(thanks zahner) listed above.

Build date says Nov 2018 so I'm assuming I have updated power supply?

Thanks again guys! Incredibly helpful club thread.

Update: actually flippers felt quite snappy at these settings when I first fired up the game. Second game during multiball got a little mushy,. But seemed to be just sometimes. When hitting ball on fly with a heavy bounce back middle of flipper,(maybe guy before me put low bounce rubbers on) and when I'd let ball roll to very end of flipper felt like ball was to heavy and would barely make it around orbit. Having tons of fun either way. Maybe just need to get a better feel as it's the first ap I've owned and never really played any in the wild. For reference I have the same feeling towards bally/William's flippers for the most part.

Maybe yes, maybe no. There are lots of pictures in this thread showing games with and without the upgrade. American Pinball used to give you a credit equal to the cost of the upgrade. My game was 2018 and I had to do the upgrade.

I'll snap a pic. However pretty sure last guy asked ap personally as that's what he told me.

Is this it? Looks to be. Holy shit! Bottom side of playfield is quite impressive! Thanks ap.

162966689712846296729926195006 (resized).jpg

16296673494813424224162683934800 (resized).jpg

In the rear bottom of the cabinet. If it is a power supply that has a donut looking thing, but not the box, you probably need the upgrade. See photos.

3898F6D7-8026-4901-B6A0-45D840E323CD (resized).jpeg

CCBB802B-6F32-4F47-ABCC-09BD454766AB (resized).jpeg

I think that’s the newer power supply. Maybe someone in the group could confirm since I have the two part upgraded version.

You need the capacitor upgrade.

It will add power to the coils.

The first issue sounds like you might have a flaky trough switch or connection, the first one is really weird and definitely not something I've ever seen. rosh will probably chime in on this but my suggestions would be to reload the code and check all connections from the PD-16s to the P3ROC board. If you don't know the PD-16s are the coil driver boards mounted back to back on a bracket mounted under the playfield and the P3ROC is the large board mounted to the left side of the cabinet under a safety / dust flap.

To check for issues that might be causing the ball drain / game end situation try putting the game in switch test mode and bang on the top of the playfield with your hand.

If the multiple AP guys run across this...Is this game still being manufactured? If so, has everything been upgraded ( past learning curve and power issues etc... I'm familiar with all the challenges)
I've almost pulled the trigger multiple times in the last few years on a used but if it's still coming off the line in 2021. I'd rather support this company buying brand new.
I've never been able to shake the Houdini bug and keep coming back to this game time and time again.
Thank you.
r/
Mike

as bobukcat said check for any flaky switches by going into switch test banging the playfield. Also look for any oddness with the right subway lock optos, and also double check you only have six balls in the game.

Houdini is actually back on the line right now, for a short run, almost all of which is already sold. A few things have changed on the last run, sub woofer added and lower speakers removed, the extra cap for the flippers I believe was on the last run, and a couple of things are being changed on this next run, notably some coils are being changed to improve power management.

Thank you for your response, Josh.
r/
Mike