(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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There are 12268 posts in this topic. You are on page 242 of 246.
#12051 15 days ago

I have no troubles bone stock as originally issued with 1st run power supply. Flipper positions stock etc. No power loss with trunk and Seance multiballs running at same time etc. Catapult consistent. But I had new dedicated circuits for my pins put in when I upgraded the main panel electrical service in my house a few years ago. My Houdini is on a circuit with two other pins. Wired it for 3-4 pins per circuit. House voltage is pretty stable to start with.

Your mileage may vary due to your particular game and existing conditions.

#12052 15 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I don’t really have any issues making shots except that damn ramp.

same here, its the hardest shot for me... inner loop & milkcan are easier without a doubt

#12053 15 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I have all of the necessary fixes (power, EOS fix, capacitor) and the game plays great with no power loss, flipper issues, etc.
I tried the 1/8” droop and went back. The shot geometry felt off, and shots weren’t any easier or more achievable. Just my experience.
After over 100 games, I don’t really have any issues making shots except that damn ramp.

Yeah, i went back and forth a bit early on. It truly is just a matter of taste.

After 2500 games, I've settled on the 1/8" droop.

#12054 15 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

So sounds like a concensus to droop each flipper by 1/8" below the alignment dots, ideally coupled with the new power supply and performance Capacitor FCO (field change option) installation. Having just received the machine a few days ago, I have a weekend ahead of me to get these options installed/adjusted, and a long list of ALL the coil adjustments, etc. And I need to fix the pop bumpers spoons which have very little sensitivity right now.

You don't need to adjust the coils much. Set the flipper coils to the value where you can *just* barely make it up the ramp with the left flipper. You may need to adjust the scoop coil as well, but first check the distance of the scoop hood - sometimes you need to push it *down* so the ball can get out more smoothly. Better than cranking the coil.

#12055 14 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

You don't need to adjust the coils much. Set the flipper coils to the value where you can *just* barely make it up the ramp with the left flipper. You may need to adjust the scoop coil as well, but first check the distance of the scoop hood - sometimes you need to push it *down* so the ball can get out more smoothly. Better than cranking the coil.

My first priority for the coils is to put the new power supply in so that I have a steady supply, and then get the catapults dialed-in one-time. Everything else I will set to the defaults shown in the manual. (Which I sent the PDF over to FedexOffice and they printed on nice double-side heavy stock, with a color front page and clear front and back covers, coil bound for $28!!!!)

#12056 14 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Everything else I will set to the defaults

when in settings the 'default' values will show in Green

#12057 14 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

when in settings the 'default' values will show in Green

Thanks, will make setup even easier!

#12058 14 days ago

Regarding the flipper adjustments, I found that if I went 1/8" (3mm) down from stock it made the ball really hard to catch and hold. I ended up in between stock and 1/8". My reference point is to just be able to see the start of the alignment holes at the bottom of the plastic of the actual flipper (not the rubber). I found this the sweet spot for me where I can more easily make the hard shots and can still catch and hold the ball properly.

#12059 14 days ago
Quoted from Optimiser:

Regarding the flipper adjustments, I found that if I went 1/8" (3mm) down from stock it made the ball really hard to catch and hold. I ended up in between stock and 1/8". My reference point is to just be able to see the start of the alignment holes at the bottom of the plastic of the actual flipper (not the rubber). I found this the sweet spot for me where I can more easily make the hard shots and can still catch and hold the ball properly.

Exactly ! 3mm is too much, its more like 2mm or a tiny bit less as you have found out.
1/8" is pretty good.

#12060 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Exactly ! 3mm is too much, its more like 2mm or a tiny bit less as you have found out.
1/8" is pretty good.

zachary (resized).JPG

It's true, maths is hard.

maths1 (resized).jpg

#12061 14 days ago
Quoted from Optimiser:

Regarding the flipper adjustments, I found that if I went 1/8" (3mm) down from stock it made the ball really hard to catch and hold. I ended up in between stock and 1/8". My reference point is to just be able to see the start of the alignment holes at the bottom of the plastic of the actual flipper (not the rubber). I found this the sweet spot for me where I can more easily make the hard shots and can still catch and hold the ball properly.

I like them at a bit less than 1/8" also. I had set them at 1/8" last night, and it feels really weird to be saying this about Houdini but... it made the game too easy (at least with my pitch at about 6.1-6.2). I was averaging 5-7 minutes per ball, which is too long for me. With a little less droop, the shots are makeable but still tight like Houdini is supposed to be.

Some other adjustments I'm liking so far are turning off the extra ball awards for replays and for the bonus multiplier, since it doesn't seem like that would ever be something you'd go for strategically, but setting the extra ball at 2 combo missions instead of 3 since those are fun to shoot for. To me, the most baller shot ever (and that I can actually make sometimes) is milkcan, ramp, scoop when mission #1 is lit, especially with the new code giving you double scoring for hitting the combo cleanly. I've also got the film modes at 60 seconds since some of them seem impossible otherwise, though I keep the stage modes at 45.

#12062 14 days ago

Is the EOS even necessary with the new power supply and the cap?

#12063 14 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Is the EOS even necessary with the new power supply and the cap?

I do not have the EOS. I do have the added power supply and cap kit on my early production Houdini. I have never had flipper trouble even before upgrading.

I think you should not need EOS but owners of the pins with the new power supply may let you know.

#12064 14 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Is the EOS even necessary with the new power supply and the cap?

I have the new power supply and capacitor kit. I held off on the EOS install with the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” point of view.

I had two flipper collapses during a crazy multiball, so I installed the EOS kit. No issues since. FWIW

#12065 14 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

[quoted image]
It's true, maths is hard.
[quoted image]

lol, yes it is...

#12066 14 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Is the EOS even necessary with the new power supply and the cap?

No. Apparently others are sold on it, but it really doesn’t really do much with or without the other updates, from an electrical perspective.

#12067 14 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No. Apparently others are sold on it, but it really doesn’t really do much with or without the other updates, from an electrical perspective.

The EOS switches seem to have advocates and naysayers, and after reading 241 pages of comments on this thread, I see some rarely seen edge use cases where they might come in handy. Josh even went ahead and has written support for EOS into the main code. I purchased the PS, CAP and EOS switches as a set from API all at the same time. My machine has the delicate side art graphics installed, so I only plan to raise the playfield very few times. Once I do, I plan to install all of the parts at the same time (this weekend). The EOS switches may be overkill for me and my style of playing, but while the playfield is raised, I will just go ahead and put them in. I also need to adjust the pop bumper spoon contacts because they have pretty poor response right now, and I assume the contacts are dirty/bent incorrectly. Again, while the playfield is raised, I will just do it all.

#12068 14 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I only plan to raise the playfield very few times.

Lol, good luck on this....Its pinball!

#12069 14 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The EOS switches seem to have advocates and naysayers

When 4 balls hit my right flipper at the same time in a recent game, It tickled me and made me smile to see the Flippper compress about 1/4" and snap right back up due to the EOS switch.

Prior to the EOS switches, on a super hard hit, my flippers would flat out collapse and require un-pressing and re-pressing the flipper switch to get it back up.

So, for me it definitely has merit.

#12070 14 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

The EOS switches seem to have advocates and naysayers, and after reading 241 pages of comments on this thread, I see some rarely seen edge use cases where they might come in handy. Josh even went ahead and has written support for EOS into the main code. I purchased the PS, CAP and EOS switches as a set from API all at the same time. My machine has the delicate side art graphics installed, so I only plan to raise the playfield very few times. Once I do, I plan to install all of the parts at the same time (this weekend). The EOS switches may be overkill for me and my style of playing, but while the playfield is raised, I will just go ahead and put them in. I also need to adjust the pop bumper spoon contacts because they have pretty poor response right now, and I assume the contacts are dirty/bent incorrectly. Again, while the playfield is raised, I will just do it all.

Either way, it won’t hurt! Do it!!

#12071 14 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I have the new power supply and capacitor kit. I held off on the EOS install with the “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” point of view.
I had two flipper collapses during a crazy multiball, so I installed the EOS kit. No issues since. FWIW

I had a credit w/AP, so I got the cap kit, EOS switches, and the knocker (along w/other stuff). I can't say I've noticed the flipper issue, but a friend played my Houdini and said he noticed it some. So I think just go w/the cap kit for now and hold off on the EOS.

I'm actually more interested in the knocker kit I got than the EOS, sounds like that's a pretty neat upgrade.

#12072 14 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I had a credit w/AP, so I got the cap kit, EOS switches, and the knocker (along w/other stuff). I can't say I've noticed the flipper issue, but a friend played my Houdini and said he noticed it some. So I think just go w/the cap kit for now and hold off on the EOS.
I'm actually more interested in the knocker kit I got than the EOS, sounds like that's a pretty neat upgrade.

Knocker is great with the bullet catch!

#12073 14 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Knocker is great with the bullet catch!

Yep, that's what I was referring to! Is it used during anything else?

#12074 13 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Yep, that's what I was referring to! Is it used during anything else?

I think so. I think it is mentioned in this thread.

#12075 13 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I think so. I think it is mentioned in this thread.

Thanks, I'll take a look around.

#12076 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Lol, good luck on this....Its pinball!

I was thinking the same thing.

#12077 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Prior to the EOS switches, on a super hard hit, my flippers would flat out collapse and require un-pressing and re-pressing the flipper switch to get it back up

yep, i have no EOS, and of course its happening as exposed in this sentence, but honestly, i dont care...

#12078 13 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Knocker is great with the bullet catch!

knocker is fantastic in... oktoberfest !

seems way more less usage on houdini (i dont have it)

#12079 13 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

knocker is fantastic in... oktoberfest !
seems way more less usage on houdini (i dont have it)

I have it and its pretty cool on Houdini, I love it.
I think its worth it.

#12080 13 days ago

If you have to decide between a knocker kit or EOS kit I'd take the knocker all day and twice on Sunday. The EOS kit only helps for very specific instances and really didn't help improve flipper issues under heavy load at all. Plus you can pretty much make your own EOS kit out of standard parts as I documented when I put them in mine.

#12081 13 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

If you have to decide between a knocker kit or EOS kit I'd take the knocker all day and twice on Sunday. The EOS kit only helps for very specific instances and really didn't help improve flipper issues under heavy load at all. Plus you can pretty much make your own EOS kit out of standard parts as I documented when I put them in mine.

The credit I had was a one time credit, so I pretty much got all the Houdini goodies I could fit in the bag. Had some spare change leftover for an AP hat!

Maybe I should have gotten some Hot Wheels stuff too (planning ahead). I keep hearing good things about that pin.

#12082 13 days ago

Unboxing question. The instructions say to lay the box down, slide the pin out and then stand it up. I'm accustomed to seeing the pin left vertical and the front of the box sliced open, which seems more straightforward. I get the point about keeping the legs from being scratched. Beyond that, which method do people prefer?

Thanks.

#12083 13 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Unboxing question. The instructions say to lay the box down, slide the pin out and then stand it up. I'm accustomed to seeing the pin left vertical and the front of the box sliced open, which seems more straightforward. I get the point about keeping the legs from being scratched. Beyond that, which method do people prefer?
Thanks.

Verticle.

Put front legs on.

Lean it on the front legs.

Lift the rear off the floor and set it on a barstool

Install the rear legs, remove straps and packaging from inside under the glass.

Set in on the floor, put sliders under the feet, glide it into position, raise the backbox and lock it into place.

Remove sliders, set playfield pitch the 6.2 degrees.

Power it up and install latest code.

#12084 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Verticle.
Put front legs on.
Lean it on the front legs.
Lift the rear off the floor and set it on a barstool
Install the rear legs, remove straps and packaging from inside under the glass.
Set in on the floor, put sliders under the feet, glide it into position, raise the backbox and lock it into place.
Remove sliders, set playfield pitch the 6.2 degrees.
Power it up and install latest code.

You forgot the most important step at the end:

Enjoy!

#12085 13 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

You forgot the most important step at the end:
Enjoy!

Oops ! Um, yeah...Play the crap out of it!

#12086 13 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Unboxing question. The instructions say to lay the box down, slide the pin out and then stand it up. I'm accustomed to seeing the pin left vertical and the front of the box sliced open, which seems more straightforward. I get the point about keeping the legs from being scratched. Beyond that, which method do people prefer?
Thanks.

To me it depends on a couple things, do you have enough space to slide it out when laying down and/or do you want to save the box? Either method works very well but AP packages their games to make it easier to slide out than some others.

#12087 13 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Unboxing question.

as bobukcat said, if you have the room to lay it down and slide it, I suggest doing that. Certainly if you want to keep the box intact, that is the way to do it. if you check out the STDM unboxing video for Hot Wheels, you can see how easy it slides out. only thing is Houdini, you might need to flip the carton flap under, since the glue where the Styrofoam was can make it a touch harder to slide out, they changed that at some point.

#12088 12 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

as bobukcat said, if you have the room to lay it down and slide it, I suggest doing that. Certainly if you want to keep the box intact, that is the way to do it. if you check out the STDM unboxing video for Hot Wheels, you can see how easy it slides out. only thing is Houdini, you might need to flip the carton flap under, since the glue where the Styrofoam was can make it a touch harder to slide out, they changed that at some point.

Other than saving the box, is there any advantage this way? The other just seems simpler.

#12089 12 days ago

Dunno what you'd do with a great big cardboard box anyway. Got enough shit at my place without saving packaging.

#12090 12 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Dunno what you'd do with a great big cardboard box anyway. Got enough shit at my place without saving packaging.

I cut the serial number out of mine since I was the first owner. Then cut the box up to help slide pins in and out of the truck.

#12091 12 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I cut the serial number out of mine since I was the first owner. Then cut the box up to help slide pins in and out of the truck.

So cut up, not saved the box. You could still cut the box open, which is what the discussion is about.

#12092 12 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Other than saving the box, is there any advantage this way? The other just seems simpler.

Less likely to cut into the machine or a leg if it's packed in the corner??

#12093 12 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Other than saving the box, is there any advantage this way? The other just seems simpler.

I like that it is just one cut across the top, and then just slide it out, and be done with the box. While the box is on its side, I just slice open the bottom, collapse it, and toss it in the garage until I have a use for it. It is designed to slide out, so it works quite well

This is a true too . . .

Quoted from bobukcat:

Less likely to cut into the machine or a leg if it's packed in the corner??

#12094 12 days ago
Quoted from archimandrite:

Other than saving the box, is there any advantage this way? The other just seems simpler.

Verticle is way simpler and much easier if you have limited help.

I did my last NIB alone.

I put sliders under the front feet so I could drag the game easily onto a barstool to install the rear legs.

It was very heavy, but I did it fairly easy.

My advice:

GET SOMEONE TO HELP with the setting onto the barstool...

This isnt 1980, modern pinball machines are HEAVY!

#12095 12 days ago

...and we’re not as young as we used to be.

#12096 12 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

So cut up, not saved the box. You could still cut the box open, which is what the discussion is about.

Apologies punkin, but was addressing your comment below.

Quoted from punkin:

Dunno what you'd do with a great big cardboard box anyway. Got enough shit at my place without saving packaging.

#12097 12 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Apologies punkin, but was addressing your comment below.

Goodo, technically you've got me.

In any case i don't use either method exactly as I have a pinball lift, but if one was close it will be the cut and lower onto trolley with front legs attached, no barstool.

Looking forward to doing it this way with gunners soon.

#12098 12 days ago

I installed the latest code last night, installed without an issue... Looking forward to getting more time in to see what is new..

#12099 12 days ago

rosh have you considered adding some sort of audible feedback option (perhaps settable) for any roll-over switch in the playfield? There is something missing as I play it (now for a week) as the ball moves across these switches, without any feedback sensation of whether they truly activated/scored or not. This is especially true for the wide lanes (left loop) where there are double microswitches and I am hoping one of them caught the travel, bur what if they didn't... Perhaps its just me not having enough faith in the machinery which could subside over time, but some kind of minor sound (or tiny shaker movement?) might be good each time a switch is activated and points are added.

Or is it just me? 8-)

#12100 12 days ago

Its in the new code. At least I noticed it last night.

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