Quoted from Sebastian88:Was there a new code released?????
few posts above, Josh make the beta available as new year gift...
Quoted from Sebastian88:Was there a new code released?????
few posts above, Josh make the beta available as new year gift...
Quoted from Sebastian88:Was there a new code released?????
There was a late 2020 Beta release, and Josh will be packaging it for production release sometime 'soon'...
Looks like they are meant to go under the upper edges of your sling plastics to protect from chips and cracking.
Quoted from Optimiser:Can someone please tell me what these are for that came with my Houdini machine?
[quoted image]
They do look like plastic protectors. I suspect someone planned to install them on top of the sling posts, between the top of the post and the bottom of the silkscreened plastic. They prevent the ball from cracking the plastic over time. Those plastics are harder to find over time, and become more brittle over time, so having protectors there sooner rather than later is a good thing. If these are intended to be plastic protectors, they will stick out from under the plastic by 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch or so. Any more and they are likely to be used for something else.
I have my first problem with Houdini:
I tilted the machine then turned it off. After turning it back on and hitting the start button, no ball comes out in the shooter lane. I checked the switches in the menu and tilt was red which I reset back to green but still no ball being presented in shooter lane. Also flippers are inactive when starting a game. I am running softwarte version 19.4.7
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Quoted from Optimiser:I have my first problem with Houdini:
I tilted the machine then turned it off. After turning it back on and hitting the start button, no ball comes out in the shooter lane. I checked the switches in the menu and tilt was red which I reset back to green but still no ball being presented in shooter lane. Also flippers are inactive when starting a game. I am running softwarte version 19.4.7
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Check the lead weight on the tilt, mine did the same thing, it was simply the weight had come undone somehow causing the circuit to tilt.
Silly question. What flipper parts are used for a rebuild ? I didn’t really see a rebuild kit in the ap site.
Quoted from Pinhead306:Silly question. What flipper parts are used for a rebuild ? I didn’t really see a rebuild kit in the ap site.
Wms late model flippers, marco has kits
It looks like the “reset stats” utility was taken out in one of the updates. Is there still a way to do that? I’d like to be able to track the stats after I change the settings.
EDIT: Never mind, I had tried "reset audits" and that was causing the game to reset without resetting the stats, but now with the new code reset audits works.
Quoted from Optimiser:After closer inspection you are all correct! They are indeed corner protectors for the plastic sling covers. There is actually one protector on both corners of both slings, so I have 2 spares. Thanks again for your experience in this.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I might want some of those, is the 32 number a metric size? Where do we buy those in the states?
Quoted from Platypus:I might want some of those, is the 32 number a metric size? Where do we buy those in the states?
You can buy a whole set of custom Houdini plastic protectors from cointaker. These are more than just round washers. They are slightly oversized versions of the plastic pieces themselves. They also have a green or purple fluorescent tint which really adds a hint of color to the whole area.
Quoted from Platypus:I might want some of those, is the 32 number a metric size? Where do we buy those in the states?
I don't know what the "32" designates, but it's not metric.
It measures 25mm in diameter (about 1 inch) x 2mm thick (about 3/32 of an inch). The hole in the centre is about 5mm diameter (about 3/16 of an inch).
Sorry I don't know where to buy them.
Quoted from Optimiser:I don't know what the "32" designates, but it's not metric.
It measures 25mm in diameter (about 1 inch) x 2mm thick (about 3/32 of an inch). The hole in the centre is about 5mm diameter (about 3/16 of an inch).
Sorry I don't know where to buy them.
-32 is simply their screen part number. You can buy these disk protectors in any color from Titanpinball. Strongly recommended on any game.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=134
I think it's just the normal backglass lock, that nobody could get into the backbox if the game is on location.
Quoted from JagDaniels:I think it's just the normal backglass lock, that nobody could get into the backbox if the game is on location.
The key is hanging inside the coin door. It allows you to lift the glass carefully, and remove the glass to access the Amplifier and lcd screen amongst other things mounted behind it. BE VERY CAREFUL PLAYING WITH IT. The back glass is, well, GLASS! That is a $250 mistake in the making if you are not careful.
Ok, I finally got my machine delivered. Serial #1251. (and it came with MagicGlass, the Shaker and Art Blades already installed). Haven't done any of the other setup and field-changes in hardware yet, but I have a box full of API stuff to put in it this weekend. I *DID* put in rosh 's firmware 19.12.30B last night just to watch it power up (and updating worked like a charm), so I played JUST ONE game just to see the coils fire. I does feel different than any of the B/W machines I have had, but it also is very intriguing and feels less frantic.
Even though I have been loitering for awhile, I guess I am now officially in the club and will offer more commentary as I get my hands inside the machine.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Ok, I finally got my machine delivered. Serial #1251. (and it came with MagicGlass, the Shaker and Art Blades already installed). Haven't done any of the other setup and field-changes in hardware yet, but I have a box full of API stuff to put in it this weekend. I *DID* put in rosh 's firmware 19.12.30B last night just to watch it power up (and updating worked like a charm), so I played JUST ONE game just to see the coils fire. I does feel different than any of the B/W machines I have had, but it also is very intriguing and feels less frantic.
Even though I have been loitering for awhile, I guess I am now officially in the club and will offer more commentary as I get my hands inside the machine.
So glad you have the game and I am sure you will be a big help as always!
Quoted from Markharris2000:Ok, I finally got my machine delivered. Serial #1251. (and it came with MagicGlass, the Shaker and Art Blades already installed). Haven't done any of the other setup and field-changes in hardware yet, but I have a box full of API stuff to put in it this weekend. I *DID* put in rosh 's firmware 19.12.30B last night just to watch it power up (and updating worked like a charm), so I played JUST ONE game just to see the coils fire. I does feel different than any of the B/W machines I have had, but it also is very intriguing and feels less frantic.
Even though I have been loitering for awhile, I guess I am now officially in the club and will offer more commentary as I get my hands inside the machine.
Might want to get the art blade protectors, if you haven't done so already.
Congrats!
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from mbwalker:Might want to get the art blade protectors, if you haven't done so already.
Congrats!
FOR SURE. Those Houdini blades are basically printed on paper instead of nice, textured durable vinyl like the Stern ones. They mar and tear VERY easily.
Quoted from mbwalker:Might want to get the art blade protectors, if you haven't done so already.
Congrats!
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html[quoted image]
I already did!!! I read EVERY SINGLE POST in this thread (241 pages) so I know all about paper thin art blades and the really tight playfield/cabinet fit. Got my order coming from PBL today...
Posts were found but the answer was not. The playfield screen on Houdini is white/gray. The VGA cable is pushing out the right signal (tested with monitor) but the harness or display itself has been corrupted. Reinstalled firmware...nothing. Unplugged and plugged back in monitor...nothing. Have other humans fixed this problem?
8A55D22B-1095-4BB2-B98C-47DF73CCDE5A (resized).jpegQuoted from c818919taylor:Posts were found but the answer was not. The playfield screen on Houdini is white/gray. The VGA cable is pushing out the right signal (tested with monitor) but the harness or display itself has been corrupted. Reinstalled firmware...nothing. Unplugged and plugged back in monitor...nothing. Have other humans fixed this problem?
[quoted image]
There's an extension cable. This looks like a loose connection between the VGA cable and the extension. If you take off the shroud on the back of the theatre, you can see where the connection is to the display board. Try re-seating that. Also, on the early run machines, the extension cable was hand made (poorly) and had inconsistent performance, so you may have to check or replace that.
Quoted from Crile1:FYI, I have a Dialed In to trade for a Houdini if anyone wants out.
Machine - For Trade
For Trade: Dialed In LE
New!
HUO - Documented (Home Used Only) “Putting this out there to see what happens. Up for trade(or possibly sell) is my HUO(second owner) Dialed In LE. Game works perfectly. No mods except I swapped the factory scoo...”
4 hours ago
Elizabethtown, KY
Trade
Crile1
WOW. I would actually consider this if I didn't like Houdini so much!! Good luck! That is a pretty even swap
Quoted from Markharris2000:I already did!!! I read EVERY SINGLE POST in this thread (241 pages) so I know all about paper thin art blades and the really tight playfield/cabinet fit. Got my order coming from PBL today...
Make sure you do the other recommendations as well! Level the game properly, flippers drooping 1/8", etc.
In case this is helpful to anyone else: I installed the new code today and everything seemed to work fine, except that when I started a game the ball did not kick into the shooter lane. This wasn't obvious to me at first, but it turned out that the name of the flash drive included a space, as API's instructions warn about. After I re-named it (right click on the flash drive in Windows Explorer), I re-installed the code and it worked without a problem.
I wish I was closer to do this trade.
Quoted from Crile1:FYI, I have a Dialed In to trade for a Houdini if anyone wants out.
Machine - For Trade
For Trade: Dialed In LE
New!
HUO - Documented (Home Used Only) “Putting this out there to see what happens. Up for trade(or possibly sell) is my HUO(second owner) Dialed In LE. Game works perfectly. No mods except I swapped the factory scoo...”
6 hours ago
Elizabethtown, KY
Trade
Crile1
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:WOW. I would actually consider this if I didn't like Houdini so much!! Good luck! That is a pretty even swap
Yes, I could do this if it was "even" trade
Just “drooped” my flippers and... wow. Wow. Tripled my previous high score within a few games. Suddenly all those tight shots are actually makeable on the fly, you don’t have to trap up every single time. And I also love that it makes it so that you can’t easily post pass from one flipper to the other, so you either have to pick something to shoot at with the right flipper, or try a risky (for me anyway) tap pass. Completely changes the game, I can’t believe it wasn’t designed to be played this way. Wow.
Quoted from MrFancy:Just “drooped” my flippers and... wow. Wow. Tripled my previous high score within a few games. Suddenly all those tight shots are actually makeable on the fly, you don’t have to trap up every single time. And I also love that it makes it so that you can’t easily post pass from one flipper to the other, so you either have to pick something to shoot at with the right flipper, or try a risky (for me anyway) tap pass. Completely changes the game, I can’t believe it wasn’t designed to be played this way. Wow.
How much did you drop them by?
Quoted from HarryReimer:How much did you drop them by?
People recommend dropping the flippers 1/8" closer to the player.
Quoted from Vegas9:People recommend dropping them 1/8" closer to the player.
Yes! Pin this post
Yeah, I've got about 1/8" of daylight in between the flipper and the alignment hole. It's amazing what a difference it makes.
Quoted from HarryReimer:How much did you drop them by?
1/8" or 2mm, just like the factory setup on AFM or AMFr.
I tried all sorts of adjustments and found that the center of the tip of the flipper bat should be on the centerline of the lane guide, or close to it (but not below it).
This lines up the shot geometry with the scoop, milk can and inner loop, while still making the ramp accessible.
Bats lined up with a straight edge along the lane guide, which is typical on a lot of games, doesnt work on this game.
Quoted from MrFancy:Just “drooped” my flippers and... wow. Wow. Tripled my previous high score within a few games. Suddenly all those tight shots are actually makeable on the fly, you don’t have to trap up every single time. And I also love that it makes it so that you can’t easily post pass from one flipper to the other, so you either have to pick something to shoot at with the right flipper, or try a risky (for me anyway) tap pass. Completely changes the game, I can’t believe it wasn’t designed to be played this way. Wow.
but than alley pass is very easy...
Quoted from RipleYYY:but than alley pass is very easy...
Yep, kinda like Diner or AFM. Its a lot of fun!
Quoted from MrFancy:Yeah, I've got about 1/8" of daylight in between the flipper and the alignment hole. It's amazing what a difference it makes.
So sounds like a concensus to droop each flipper by 1/8" below the alignment dots, ideally coupled with the new power supply and performance Capacitor FCO (field change option) installation. Having just received the machine a few days ago, I have a weekend ahead of me to get these options installed/adjusted, and a long list of ALL the coil adjustments, etc. And I need to fix the pop bumpers spoons which have very little sensitivity right now.
Quoted from RipleYYY:but than alley pass is very easy...
and flippers on mine are set from factory, in perfect alignement with the inlanes, no 1/8 drop
Quoted from Markharris2000:So sounds like a concensus to droop each flipper by 1/8" below the alignment dots, ideally coupled with the new power supply and performance Capacitor FCO (field change option) installation. Having just received the machine a few days ago, I have a weekend ahead of me to get these options installed/adjusted, and a long list of ALL the coil adjustments, etc. And I need to fix the pop bumpers spoons which have very little sensitivity right now.
I have made a lot of what I think are "neccessary" adjustments early on.
Read up on my posts a bit in this thread.
I have all of the necessary fixes (power, EOS fix, capacitor) and the game plays great with no power loss, flipper issues, etc.
I tried the 1/8” droop and went back. The shot geometry felt off, and shots weren’t any easier or more achievable. Just my experience.
After over 100 games, I don’t really have any issues making shots except that damn ramp.
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