Leave it where it is.

I moved mine but had so many balls in the shooter lane it affected gameplay adversely.

So, I moved it back. Its better where it stands.

I recently bought a 1991 Bally Harley Davidson. That game may make better use of a shaker than any game out there. Sounds and feels like you are on a hog.

It’s the latest...19.4.7

Have somebody send you the beta

I don’t know what that is so I guess not...

I’ll rephrase: there is newer code than you have available, but it’s a “beta”, meaning not fully tested and bugs may be present. Some of us have updated to it, some not, some have updated and went back to the April 19 code. I don’t have the beta code, although it’s been SO long since an update I might as well.

Anybody have a link to that beta I’m referring to?

Since we are on the topic, any update on when the official update will be released? @Rosh? @Ferret?

I don’t think Ferret worked on Houdini at all, it was kind of Josh’s thing.

That’s right.

Thank you all, I’m hoping it was only a computer glitch and nothing more sinister. It might be safer for me to wait for the update from AP. Things have a tendency to go south very quickly in this house.

Regards.

Houdini has returned to the grave. ☹️

Opened a support ticket today with AP, looks like the main power supply is dead.

405F66A5-DFE7-45E4-B6E0-10D89D4E5B55 (resized).jpeg

That sucks. But if the main PS is dead, how did you get the LCD to turn on and the computer to tell you the connection is down?

Oh no, I hope mine isn’t headed that same grave.

Looks like a wal-nut connector failure or a wiring/connector/fuse problem.

My money is on a maybe a wal-nut connector failure. I have seen this on my game.

If it was power supply the screen wouldnt light up, the whole game would just be dead.

Not exactly true, I had the same thing and it turned out to be the 5VDC regulator on the power supply was dead. I bought a replacement regulator (it's one sealed one-piece thing for each of the 5VDC and 12VDC ouputs) off Ebay and replaced it myself, relatively easy to do.

Start by testing the 5VDC Test point on the power supply (it's the left side of the terminal block on the OG supply if you happen to have two supplies), if it's dead there and you have 12VDC it's probably the same problem I had. You can disconnect it and test again to make sure something isn't shorting it out just to be sure. American Pinball will sell you one if you chose to go that route but on my game anyway this was the exact replacemnt part: ebay.com link: DAYGREEN D510 50W DC DC CONVERTER 12V 24V 5V 10Amax

I have to agree with this! Gotta check the 5v system.

maybe this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Daygreen-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Reducer/dp/B07JHBYDGG

I was hoping for something simpler.

Like others have said. please measure the DC voltage coming off the power supply:
5v = red and black wires
12v = yellow and black wires

coils are 48v and brown and black wires, but that's not required to boot.

Anyone happen to have the instructions on the water torture chamber? I cant find mine and couldn’t find anything on hooked website.

Thx

http://tiltforums.com/t/houdini-rulesheet/3934

I think this may help you for hooking it up. Follow the photos.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0r5VaUrzZ7DMA

and a link to the post where this came from earlier in the thread :

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/american-pinball-houdini-thread/page/230#post-5847671

Thanks!

My scoop just started kicking out two balls instead of one pretty consistently at the start of modes. Since it wasn't happening before (on the most recent non-beta code), I wonder if it is something with the scoop switch that can be adjusted?

Was curious as to the latest code... any updates?

To start try shortening the setting for the right lock release in the coils settings, unlike most of the coil settings this is a timing setting rather than strength. Also make sure your balls aren't magnetized.

He needs scoop help

I’ve been wondering the same thing. The question is asked over and over on this forum but the usually helpful and quick to respond AP guys on the thread never bother to respond to this question.

Multiple hot wheels code updates, Oktoberfest got some recent love and an update. Latest Houdini code has been in beta for a while now. How much more can it need before going final? I love you guys but sure would love a response. Even more so, would love a code update.... @Rosh? Anything?

???? The scoop cannot shoot out balls that have not been released by the lock, except for one that was shot into the scoop which is not how any mode except SEANCE multiball is started.

hi guys... look what just landed home :

IMG_20201217_113353_363 (resized).jpg

very 1st game on it seems a good presage...

That was your first play ? Holy Smokes !

Last official release was in April 2019, it sure would be great to see an update! I know Josh is flying solo on Houdini code, but hopefully he's found some time post Hot Wheels. I need to install that beta code eventually ...

well, to be honest, i've put 3 or 4 games on it in 2017 when just out, in a tournament...
but nothing more since yesterday

ok, as its HUO, wanna be sure to set it in "factory", than about the outlanes, where are the post ?

it's in the middle hole on the left... suppose thats OK !?
and its on the higher hole position on the right... seems also OK !?

tanx

Maybe check your game settings too and adjust to your liking. Might be some of the setting are set very liberal - not that I doubt your skill as a player. Set it up to your preferences. I know you are going to enjoy the game for a long time. One of my favorite games. Enjoy !

HI

Just received a Houdini pinball (which had been waiting 2 months for to be dlelvered). The seller disconnected the cables and backbox in order to remove from house but I'm struggling to work out where they all go so wondered if anyone with a Houdini or maybe another AP pinball can help guide me. I've looked in the manual which whilst quite large doesn't show any pics of the backbox connections. Also looked at every picture on Pinside of Houdini and can't see one which helps. Never had an AP before and seller didn't provide any pics of the cables. Easy when you've done before but coming to it blind.

Found out where most of them go which had to remove monitor to access so not immeditaately obvious but still can't work out where 3 more go - the black and white hdmi cable , one power connector? and one plastic molex type connector, hopefully clear in pic below but can take more as required. Also there were two hdmi cables so hope doesn't matter which of the two hdmi slots they go in?

IMG_20201218_124744 (resized).jpg

I've never had to pull the monitor or do any work in the backbox of mine so I can't help you here. Hopefully brenna98 or one of the other awesome AP folks can get you up and running, it's not cool to get a new game and not be able to play it!

Yeah hopefully they can. I was thinking some pics of the inside of the backbox showing those cables could help show where they need to go.

soon

there are actually only three of four wires that needed to be disconnected, looks like he did t least a few extra.

The two in your hand, one is the HDMI cable that goes from the computer to the monitor, and the other is the power cable for the computer, monitor or amp. Guessing both are for the monitor, just looking at your photo.

It can be easier to plug this in with the monitor off. Loosen the monitor screws, removing the middle screws so you can then slide it up and off.

The yellow wire, is likely for the backbox light. So that is either coming off the LED strip and needs to find its mate in the cabinet or you holding the mate and just need to find the end of that yellow wire on the backbox Led strip.

tanx

(and check my tables scores... even if i'm not Keith E.)

Your scores are impressive. Pull off one or both flipper bats and then you'll have a challenge.

Better yet - Play blindfolded - appropriate for Houdini .

Many thanks, hadn't seen that there connections underneath the monitor so plugged the power lead in and hdmi cable and thought that would sort it.

Unfortunately not. I get playfiled lights come on (white and stuck on) and a message sating VGA on the small screen on the playfield but nothing at all on backbox.

Have attached pics below of how the cables are but in summary have two usb and one hdmi to black box behind monitor and then the power cable and hdmi (bnoth previously unconnected) to the monitor. I'm not sure if ther VGA cable needs to be connected to the black box or the monitor. as there are VGA sockets in both. Have tried both and nothing different between the two.
IMG_20201218_163850 (resized).jpgIMG_20201218_163904 (resized).jpg

That little tiny "soon" made my day!

Sure wish I could help you, but Houdini is currently packed up waiting for our house to be finished...

The game should come on even if the monitor is disconnected though. You won't hurt anything plugging in the VGA cable to the monitor, so I'd try that. Where does the other end go? Should be easy enough to trace it

The VGA should go to the Mini-LCD on the Playfied and connect to the computer, HDMI should be from computer to monitor in the Backbox - don't know why that would have been disconnected though.

All working now. It was the yellow lead in my first post and pic that needed to be connected. Couldn't see as was hidden at bottom of bakcbox so had to dig aorund and found it and now comes on and plays

Many thanks for all your help. Relieved to get working!

so strange you've said that, as here's my son :

and more seriously, we're just around top 1000, nothing incredible

I hope there's lightning flippers on that puppy!

its old and gone from time... didnt remember which ones (did get the 2 models) were placed on it as BSD was on my sister house

Is there a way to test whether your knocker works correctly...assuming it’s installed properly?

Yes.

Score lot's of points.

First make sure you enabled it in settings,
then go into test->cabinet

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked -- balls are not magnetized. I checked the optos and they are good. I tried setting the lock release timing to 4 instead of factory 6, and it seems to have worked. Got to play some more to see.