Houdini
American Pinball, 2017Quoted from drummermike:I have the 48v upgrade power supply. I have never had flipper issues before or after. I do not have the EOS kit.
The capacitor kit I just installed has made a dramatic change for the better.
The capacitor is WAY more important than EOS. EOS is the -last- upgrade you should do.
Mount the board to the left of center, install the board with J1 to the left.
Capapult was perfect from day one.
Same as others, catapult shot high and to the right after install. I lower coil to 27 and it is perfect and consistent.
Scoop worked properly until last code update. Now works on first attempt.
I stopped having flipper failure after installing upgraded power supply. I also have the EOS switches. No apparent change with cap board.
I still have lost balls and long search times.
American Pinball is slowly making this a epic game.
I am getting closer to buying a Hot Wheels for the grand kids.
Coin door by Robert Stone and Master Audio Control by Pinnovators.
The build quality of Houdini is very impressive. They just forgot the speaker cabinet.
I am looking for a sold out robot mod and the gold Houdini emblem for the backbox.
Great game, great value I love it.
IMG-2855 (resized).jpgIMG-2857 (resized).jpgQuoted from wolftownjeff:Mount the board to the left of center, install the board with J1 to the left.
Capapult was perfect from day one.
Same as others, catapult shot high and to the right after install. I lower coil to 27 and it is perfect and consistent.
Scoop worked properly until last code update. Now works on first attempt.
I stopped having flipper failure after installing upgraded power supply. I also have the EOS switches. No apparent change with cap board.
I still have lost balls and long search times.
American Pinball is slowly making this a epic game.
I am getting closer to buying a Hot Wheels for the grand kids.
Coin door by Robert Stone and Master Audio Control by Pinnovators.
The build quality of Houdini is very impressive. They just forgot the speaker cabinet.
I am looking for a sold out robot mod and the gold Houdini emblem for the backbox.
Great game, great value I love it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Oh damn that coin door is outstanding! Lost balls are being worked on by Josh, I am confident we will have an update! (And way before Keith Johnson gets to POTC)
Quoted from wolftownjeff:Mount the board to the left of center, install the board with J1 to the left.
Capapult was perfect from day one.
Same as others, catapult shot high and to the right after install. I lower coil to 27 and it is perfect and consistent.
Scoop worked properly until last code update. Now works on first attempt.
I stopped having flipper failure after installing upgraded power supply. I also have the EOS switches. No apparent change with cap board.
I still have lost balls and long search times.
American Pinball is slowly making this a epic game.
I am getting closer to buying a Hot Wheels for the grand kids.
Coin door by Robert Stone and Master Audio Control by Pinnovators.
The build quality of Houdini is very impressive. They just forgot the speaker cabinet.
I am looking for a sold out robot mod and the gold Houdini emblem for the backbox.
Great game, great value I love it.[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, this is a key point.
There is very little slack in the wiring harness.
I plugged my J5 connector onto J1 on the capicitor board before mounting it.
J1 located definitely on the left.
This way you can see that it has to be farther left and closer to the left magnet than the picture in the instructions shows.
Make sure its high enough that you can get the lower mounting screws in without damaging or removing the driverboard pair.
I used a 6" extention on my drill motor to get the screws in thru the wiring.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Just tried to order the cap kit, sold out
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/kit0006-00
Look again. I ordered one yesterday no problem and just checked now out of curiosity - it appears to be back in stock.
Quoted from wolftownjeff:I am looking for a sold out robot mod and the gold Houdini emblem for the backbox
I also really like the 3D facade. I can’t tell if you have that one. It is subtle, but really well done. Adds an additional sense of “quality build” to an already quality game. One of my favorite mods. Worth checking out.
It’s at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1080-the-mod-couple/01864-api-houdini-api-grand-theater-3d-facade-makeover-mod
Hang in there for the robot, they seem to pop up every so often.
I plan on installing the capacitor upgrade tomorrow.
Do I still need the EOS switch upgrade kit?
If so, what exactly does the EOS switch upgrade do?
Quoted from indypinhead:I plan on installing the capacitor upgrade tomorrow.
Do I still need the EOS switch upgrade kit?
If so, what exactly does the EOS switch upgrade do?
EOS removes a bug where if the flippers fall due to a powerful ball you have to flip to reset the state of the flippers (a dead flip). The EOS will tell the game the true state.
Quoted from indypinhead:I plan on installing the capacitor upgrade tomorrow.
Do I still need the EOS switch upgrade kit?
If so, what exactly does the EOS switch upgrade do?
It allows the game to know when a flipper is knocked down.
This way the game can keep the flipper up so you dont have to keep repressing the flipper button.
Flipper knockdown happens a lot in multiball games.
If three high speed balls hit a flipper at the same time, the sheer weight will collapse the flipper.
Without EOS the flipper will stay down until you release the flipper button and press it again.
With EOS the flipper will come back up automatically.
Quoted from indypinhead:If so, what exactly does the EOS switch upgrade do?
The end of stroke switch is for the flipper hold power. All flippers are dual wound coils: High power for the initial snap of power, and Low power for the hold at the top (end of stroke). Traditionally the end of stroke switches where critical to have so you didn't burn up the coil.
Houdini and many modern games have computer controlled EOS switches.
The physical eos switch helps with balls coming at full speed hitting your flipper, when the contacts open the high power engages again and snaps the flipper back up.
Quoted from brenna98:The end of stroke switch is for the flipper hold power. All flippers are dual wound coils: High power for the initial snap of power, and Low power for the hold at the top (end of stroke). Traditionally the end of stroke switches where critical to have so you didn't burn up the coil.
Houdini and many modern games have computer controlled EOS switches.
The physical eos switch helps with balls coming at full speed hitting your flipper, when the contacts open the high power engages again and snaps the flipper back up.
I wasn't aware of that....
What other newer pins use this?
I only have a few newer mins...MBr, MMr, GBLE and JJP POTC
Quoted from indypinhead:I wasn't aware of that....
What other newer pins use this?
I only have a few newer mins...MBr, MMr, GBLE and JJP POTC
All of them have EOS switches.
Rick and Morty has the P-Roc system and they installed EOS switches too.
Houdini didnt come with them as its not totally necessary since the PC controls the coils to keep them from burning up if you hold a flipper for an extended time.
But from a gameplay point of view when in a chaotic scenario, you just dont have the time to fool with a dead/collapsed flipper.
I installed EOS switches early on before kits were available. It has helped a lot, I need all the help I can get lol
The EOS kit is a pretty easy 25 min installation.
The capacitor kit is really good.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Just tried to order the cap kit, sold out
https://store.american-pinball.com/products/kit0006-00
I Just ordered it right now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:All of them have EOS switches.
Rick and Morty has the P-Roc system and they installed EOS switches too.
Houdini didnt come with them as its not totally necessary since the PC controls the coils to keep them from burning up if you hold a flipper for an extended time.
But from a gameplay point of view when in a chaotic scenario, you just dont have the time to fool with a dead/collapsed flipper.
I installed EOS switches early on before kits were available. It has helped a lot, I need all the help I can get lol
The EOS kit is a pretty easy 25 min installation.
The capacitor kit is really good.
Just ordered the EOS kit and knocker kit.
Quoted from Audioenslaved:Man I’m bummed that I sold my Houdini before this came out but I was frustrated by the missing ball acts and catapult adjustments that weren’t working. I’ll definitelt get one of these back one day
I almost sold my TH just before the EPIC ver 3.0 update...stuck in the unfinished ver 2.1.
I waited 2 years, nothing came, I was getting antsy... and then?
A completely different game emerges that is truly groundbreaking!
So, Ive learned to be patient lol.
Im confident that Josh and team will get this game coded and finished!
After the long wait, I feel great things are coming.
This capacitor upgrade is one of them.
Its a completely different game.
Houdini is destined to be a world class game!
Dave (@brenna98) has brought new life and strength to the API team and Houdini!
(But I miss @barryj, he's awesome. But doing amazing things at JJP now I hear!)
I've been a bit absent from pinside lately and just caught up on the latest Houdini talk.
Just ordered the capacitor kit and a few other goodies from API. Interested in getting the kit installed and seeing how it changes things. Overall, I haven't had too much problem with power/ coil strength fluctuations but occasionally it rears its ugly head.
The beta code is an improvement but it still seems to struggle with keeping track of the balls. Frustrating, but not to the point that I want to get rid of this fun game.
Quoted from GSones:I've been a bit absent from pinside lately and just caught up on the latest Houdini talk.
Just ordered the capacitor kit and a few other goodies from API. Interested in getting the kit installed and seeing how it changes things. Overall, I haven't had too much problem with power/ coil strength fluctuations but occasionally it rears its ugly head.
The beta code is an improvement but it still seems to struggle with keeping track of the balls. Frustrating, but not to the point that I want to get rid of this fun game.
You’re gonna have to be patient!
Quoted from GSones:I've been a bit absent from pinside lately and just caught up on the latest Houdini talk.
Yeah, we've been talking about you since you left, mostly trash talk.
jk. - welcome back. 
Question as I am still learning my Houdini, when does the rear catapult come into play, I have never seen it used in the game. I have the latest code and the game is set to easy. Everything else works fine,catapult works in test mode.
Quoted from Chopper36:Question as I am still learning my Houdini, when does the rear catapult come into play, I have never seen it used in the game. I have the latest code and the game is set to easy. Everything else works fine,catapult works in test mode.
After you load the main catapult, the ball usually drops into the secondary catapult, throwing it into the wireform
Quoted from Chopper36:when does the rear catapult come into play
If starting a movie and locking a ball at the same time
During bullet Catch
Starting trunk multiball
Quoted from rosh:If starting a movie and locking a ball at the same time
During bullet Catch
Starting trunk multiball
You forgot when it accidentally falls in from a missed throw. Thanks for coding that possible eventuality.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:After you load the main catapult, the ball usually drops into the secondary catapult, throwing it into the wireform
No this is not happening, a ball always loads up at the shooter rod, had several trunk multiballs and no rear catapult, it just doesn't seem to be a part of my game.
Quoted from Chopper36:No this is not happening, a ball always loads up at the shooter rod, had several trunk multiballs and no rear catapult, it just doesn't seem to be a part of my game.
Pull the glass and experiment
Quoted from 27dnast:Pull the glass and experiment
I adjusted the catapult setting, was too low,works perfectly. All trunk shots go straight to the subway. I am guessing something in the code is not allowing the balls to go to the upper catapult, all mech and electrical working as far as I can tell. Maybe have to downgrade code or go to the beta. I guess I will call API on Monday.
Quoted from Chopper36:I adjusted the catapult setting, was too low,works perfectly. All trunk shots go straight to the subway. I am guessing something in the code is not allowing the balls to go to the upper catapult, all mech and electrical working as far as I can tell. Maybe have to downgrade code or go to the beta. I guess I will call API on Monday.
You tested the actual switch on the upper catapult? The overwhelming most likely situation is that your switch isn’t catching -when a ball is in the catapult-. Make sure to test with a ball not your finger.
My catapult (the main one) had an issue where the switch would sometimes not detect a ball in it and it wouldn’t throw. Took me a while to realize a ball doesn’t push the switch down as far as when I would test with my finger. The fix was just to bend up the switch arm very slightly. There’s almost no way it’s your code.
Quoted from Chopper36:I adjusted the catapult setting, was too low,works perfectly. All trunk shots go straight to the subway. I am guessing something in the code is not allowing the balls to go to the upper catapult, all mech and electrical working as far as I can tell. Maybe have to downgrade code or go to the beta. I guess I will call API on Monday.
You are talking about the upper catapult that thows the ball into the wireform.
To see it work, place a ball in it while the game is on with the coindoor closed or the white peg on the door switch pulled.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You tested the actual switch on the upper catapult? The overwhelming most likely situation is that your switch isn’t catching -when a ball is in the catapult-. Make sure to test with a ball not your finger.
My catapult (the main one) had an issue where the switch would sometimes not detect a ball in it and it wouldn’t throw. Took me a while to realize a ball doesn’t push the switch down as far as when I would test with my finger. The fix was just to bend up the switch arm very slightly. There’s almost no way it’s your code.
I did test it with a ball, after I raised the setting it works like a champ. The problem is that after the trunk shot is made the switch opens the door to the subway everytime. So no balls are entering the upper catapult, basically useless. Played multiple games and tested with glass off but the trunk bottom door always opens after trunk catapult shot is made.
Quoted from Chopper36:I did test it with a ball, after I raised the setting it works like a champ. The problem is that after the trunk shot is made the switch opens the door to the subway everytime. So no balls are entering the upper catapult, basically useless. Played multiple games and tested with glass off but the trunk bottom door always opens after trunk catapult shot is made.
Somethings not registering
Quoted from Chopper36:I did test it with a ball, after I raised the setting it works like a champ. The problem is that after the trunk shot is made the switch opens the door to the subway everytime. So no balls are entering the upper catapult, basically useless. Played multiple games and tested with glass off but the trunk bottom door always opens after trunk catapult shot is made.
Sounds like a switch is loose or needs adjusting or the trunk diverter coil wire fell off the coil or its cable is loose.
I dont think its code related.
This is pretty simple to test, take the glass off, start a game, hold onto the ball and light film with the inlanes by hand then roll the ball up the inner loop. Catapult should fire it into the trunk, diverter should stay closed and it should go to the upper catapult and end up on your right flipper.
Quoted from bobukcat:This is pretty simple to test, take the glass off, start a game, hold onto the ball and light film with the inlanes by hand then roll the ball up the inner loop. Catapult should fire it into the trunk, diverter should stay closed and it should go to the upper catapult and end up on your right flipper.
Ok it worked that time, first time I have seen it. So I guess I have to up my game, but it did not work in trunk multiball,last ball in went to the subway. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
Quoted from Chopper36:Ok it worked that time, first time I have seen it. So I guess I have to up my game, but it did not work in trunk multiball,last ball in went to the subway. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
Focus on FILM Letters to be sure you have film lit as much as possible, so you are not wasting inner loop/lock shots and you will see that upper catapult more
Ok turkeys, I’ll order this kit and apparently an EOS kit as well. Game already has power supply, blades, knocker, and shaker.
Anything else the long timers would suggest as an add or backup before I empty my wallet and place another order? 
Quoted from Vino:Anything else the long timers would suggest as an add
Quoted from NoQuarters:Add a Hot Wheels pin to your order.
Your collection needs an Oktoberfest pin too.
LTG : )
Quoted from Chopper36:I did test it with a ball, after I raised the setting it works like a champ. The problem is that after the trunk shot is made the switch opens the door to the subway everytime. So no balls are entering the upper catapult, basically useless. Played multiple games and tested with glass off but the trunk bottom door always opens after trunk catapult shot is made.
Oh I get it. Huh, yeah that should not be happening. Maybe the trunk door is faulty?
Quoted from NoQuarters:Add a Hot Wheels pin to your order.
Quoted from LTG:Your collection needs an Oktoberfest pin too.
LTG : )
Well, I set myself up there didn’t I?
Quoted from Vino:Well, I set myself up there didn’t I?
Well you wanted to empty your wallet. We came running to help.
Only looking out for your happiness.
LTG : )
Looks like I lost green on one of my insert LED boards, whaaaaa! 
I see Pinball Life sells the individual P3ROC LED boards but they don't list any of the AP games as using them, I'll have to send Margaret a note about that one. Has anyone else had one fail yet or am I the first? Just curious.
EDIT: Crud - after looking under the PF it appears this (Lock 2) is actually on a larger custom board. Guess I'll have to see if I can figure out if it's actually an individual LED on that board that died and it so if I can find a replacement for it before replacing the whole board.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Does anyone know where to get the lighted, interactive water torture mod?
I think I want one.
The Mod Couple made them. Sold out. https://themodcouplepinball.com/collections/api-houdini-custom-mods-collection/products/api-houdini-custom-water-torture-mod-complete-the-magic?variant=8187195490401
Keep an eye on Pinside classifieds or make a wanted post.
LTG : )
Quoted from pinballinreno:Does anyone know where to get the lighted, interactive water torture mod?
I think I want one.
There were two made. The Mod Couple one is sold out, but not the interactive model. The interactive one is still available at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1070-hookedonpinballcom/02152-houdini-chinese-water-torture-mod-factory-interactive-
Quoted from zahner:The interactive one is still available at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1070-hookedonpinballcom/02152-houdini-chinese-water-torture-mod-factory-interactive-
Available and very nicely detailed.
Josh put in a few lines of code for it to.
Quoted from zahner:There were two made. The Mod Couple one is sold out, but not the interactive model. The interactive one is still available at:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1070-hookedonpinballcom/02152-houdini-chinese-water-torture-mod-factory-interactive-
I wasn't aware of that one.
Thank you !
LTG : )
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