Historically a steamer trunk would have been silk lined.

But a lot of jewelry cases are velvet lined.

Unfortunately no. It was pre-COVID and I bought it at JoAnn’s almost two years ago.

No it's not unfortunately. Installing the upgraded Power Supply, being that you just bought yours you should have upgraded one so no worries there and/or the EOS won't make a difference on the flippers. Supposedly the next software update was to address this but reading the post from those that are testing the BETA have noted the issue still is there.

I'm ignorant to the flipper issue... so, this question has probably been answered. But, is this something that some games have and others do not? Or is it universal across the board?

I've owned my Houdini for about 3 weeks or so and I don't think I've experienced it. But, perhaps I'm just not familiar enough with the game?

Not everyone has -reported- it, and it’s pretty hard to prove something has -not- happened. But it does appear to happen more to certain games vs others. I get this pretty rarely - it mostly seems to happen when you’ve got a multiball going, and the magnets fire right about when you’re hitting the flippers

Bad news from my PD-16 Coil board. I repaired it and it worked in test mode. But during the game the autofire coil was getting to hot while the transitor was activated all the time. And now the coil is damaged and i have to replace it.

All european distriubutors has long waiting times for spareparts. So is it possible to use a WPC-Coil and solder it correctly? - If yes which coil can i use?

Thank you for your input and help.

cheers - Mighty

All coils are standard on Houdini, with almost every coil a 23-800, a pretty common coil. You can just cut off the leads/connector and solder to a new one

I've mentioned a couple of times in the thread, I don't think I've ever seen this issue. I'm not a great player, but given the amount of attention it's gotten over the year or so it's been discussed - I think I would have noticed it if it did occur. Weird.

I’d say “ditto” if wasn’t sure I’d jinx myself. So, no official comment, but hypothetically I have not seen it either.

in testing left pop is dead but top and right work.. and my knocker does not work ... any ideas? please

Does the pop bumper skirt register in switch test ?

Probably not a fuse. First I'd dig around the coil lugs - broken wire ? Thin wire from coil winding that goes to lug, cracked or broken - you may need to dig around them to make sure ? Then I'd check wiring from lugs to where it all goes to board that drives it. Connector off, wire out of a connector, broken wire somewhere else.

LTG : )

Do they work in game play ?

LTG : )

top and right in gameplay work. left pop does not thanks ltg

Check it's switch in switch test next.

LTG : )

I’m testing a upgrade to give the coils more consistent power during heavy power usage.
So far the results are very good! I’ll be working on a kit and instructions for this simple upgrade very soon.

you will be a hero! good work sir

Count me in!

Im in!

rosh Thank you! - Do i need the one with a diode or the one without?

Count me in

Please put me down for one kit.
Thanks for doing what AP should be doing.
I will buy a Hot Wheels when AP fixes Houdini.

NO. Diode, very important to cut it off

Sounds to good to be true - Awesome hope it's possible to build it from scratch for us germancustomers

Thank you Rosh - ordered a Coil without diode - so hope i got it all ready for the weekend pinball night

Brenna98 is AP's technical service manager. We are happy to help. Thank you for your continued support, wolftownjeff and happy flipping

Guys you're awesome thank you so much and can't wait for the fix :p

Has Oktoberfest had similar flipper power consistency issues?

Not been reported AFAIK

I don't want to steal @brenna98's thunder but once he reveals what the fix is you'll understand why it doesn't apply to OKT or HW. He's been super-helpful to me in my quest to figure this out though, amazing support from a pinball manufacturer IMO.

Let me know if I can help guys, I'd love to put this thing to bed

I read this thread a long time before finally getting some scratch to buy Houdini and I must say, the dedication and support to this title is consistently outstanding.
I will own another AP title ASAP based on this alone. Thank you.

It might be a voltage issue. Not everyone receives the same line voltage and throughout the day the voltage varies.

The upgraded power supply was added to address that specific issue as the original ~55VDC supply is unregulated, the new one is regulated 48V and should be largely unaffected by minor variances of the input voltage. It vastly improved consistency of the catapult but did not solve the flipper issues under load.

Exactly, the original power supply is probably better at handling the game load, but does not like varying wall voltage, nor does the catapult. The switching power supplies will give consistent voltage regardless of wall voltage variations, but are not quite as good at handling peak loads, which is what Dave is currently looking at.

Great information and explanation.

I have a game with original power supply and apparently the wall voltage is pretty consistent. Flippers and catapult seem to stay stable. Have not had any problems. One in a great while I have had to adjust catapult coil up or down. Maybe once or twice in about 9-10 months of ownership. Have not had an issue with the flipper power.

I recieved my spare PD-16 coil Driver Board from a distributor (ministry of pinball) but the connectors (j9 and j10) for Logic serial Data have only two Pins - so ground is misisng and so i guess its a v1 Board.

Can i use the V1 Board in my Houdini and If yes what have i to modify, cause the serial wires have a 3 pin design.

Hope you can Help me.

Thank you

Yes you can use a V1 board. Pretty sure the 'extra' is pin3, so you can just use the current connector, as wired, just be sure you are on the right set of pins. You can also double check it via the multimorphic website.

Regardless of board version, VERY IMPORTANT to properly set the dip switches on the new board to match the board you are replacing, otherwise bad shit can happen.

Thanks rosh, Hope i find the right Dip Settings in my pictures or in the Manual.

I looked at the AP Houdini Manual.

J9 (in) on Board Revision 2 is

Pin1 Serial+
Pin 2 Serial-
Pin 3 Ground

That's the Same on my destroyed board.

On the Website from multimorpic pd16 coil driver Board Revision 1 (which ist my new Board, i bought)

J9 Input is:

Pin1 Serial+
Pin 2 Serial-

So Not sure If i need the ground... Cause all Others Boards connected with 3 Pins.

i'll also post some pictures, before Installation etc - maybe its possible that one of you can Check If its all rightt - so that i don't kill a Seconds Board again...

I am picking up NIB Houdini tomorrow,besides updating the code, anything I should watch out for (issues) or advice on setting it up
? My first Pin.
Thanks in advance

Here is how i would connect it:

Only Grey and purple from the wire. But is the blue cable (Ground) really not needed?

PD-16 (resized).JPG

Read the set up flyer in the game. Level per the instructions, etc.

Very important to have both the incline (or top to bottom) and the side to side levels adjusted properly. You’ll need a torpedo level (or something similar) to get the incline dialed in. See this link for some basic leveling info:

https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html

Download and print the manual from the API site at:

http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-10/AP_Houdini-Service-Manual_091018.pdf

Make sure you have the latest code.

I’d say don’t worry too much about the mods or adjustments mentioned on the API support page unless they prove to actually be a problem. It’s real easy to get over you skies with pinball, especially when you are new to it. A lot depends on your experience with electronics and such. If you have none, go slow. It will get there. If you have a lot of experience, then pinball will be pretty straightforward.

If you have any issues, just post here. Lots of good people with lots of experience with this game and pinball in general.

Congratulations, it's a fantastic game! If this is your first game this may seem daunting but I'd suggest cleaning and adjusting the pop bumper switches. Also make sure to use easier settings than the defaults, they are way too difficult for all but the best players.

Ditto on the settings.

This is the correct answer. The game level is INCREDIBLY important; perhaps more on this game than any other. If your floor is perfectly level, you can screw the levelers all the way in. The game is designed to be played at about a 6 degree pitch, not the 6.5 many other games are. If you want to set it up at 6.5 (mine is about 6.2), boost the rear levelers obviously, but ALSO drop the flippers a tiny bit; about 1/8". This makes the milk can shot makeable again.

Really? This game can’t be jacked up to 7deg pitch?

Thank You guys for all the info. I liked this game when I first saw it and it has a lot of support from this thread. Just worried about the carpeted floor in the new pinball room. I will probably have to cut up some wood to put under the legs but will try it without first.

Ball moves too fast.
Lots of stage rejects.

I have my game at 6.2

Flippers drooped 1/8"

Left flipper power up one notch from the right

Something like 24R, 25L or there abouts.

Probably lower if you have strong wall power.