Fid you update to the latest code?

EOS mod helps a bit, its worth it.

At least the flippers come back up without re-pressing the buttons.

I did put the new code on. EOS hard to do?

Two adjustment questions:

1) is there a way to adjust the location of the image on the theater display on the playfield? Mine is slightly cutoff on the left side.

2) Any tips on dialing in that dogleg right shot that’s to the left of the key shot (through the pops)?

Mine successfully hits the stage 1/10 times. Not sure if my playfield’s pitch. I’m guessing it’s between 6.5 and 7. My playfield is slightly slanted to the right (I need to level that... been having too much fun playing the game

Here's the device that converts the woofer outputs to a low level, isolated signal for a mixer. Plenty of other similar devices, but these are inexpensive and work fine. I installed insulated alligator clips to make it easy to hook up to the internal woofer (on non-AP pins). Output is RCA, which I simply run under the pin's woofer (protected so it doesn't get crushed) to the bottom of the cabinet.
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I originally had a 4 channel mixer, but moved to a 6 channel later on. The mixer's output then goes to the active subs. I just used a RCA 'Y' splitter to get the 2 outputs for the subs.
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You really don't need much for a sub to make a big difference, and a couple of 8" subs sound great. With 6 pins in that row, I did feel I needed two subs otherwise the bass seems distant. I originally tried my 12" sub from my AV setup, but it was a bit much.
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To clean up the cable mess, I installed a cheap, plastic 'cable run' right above the baseboard to hide the wires that end in Keystone RCA jacks, then short cables to go from the Keystone jacks to the mixer. I also have RCA plugs on the cable run so I can disconnect a pin if needed. Very clean install. Prior, all the wires on the floor behind the pins drove me nuts.
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People have asked me about having all six pins being played at once. Can't answer that since it's really just me and the spouse playing - so only one pin is being played at a time. But there should't be an issue tho, other than maybe adjusting the levels so you don't overdrive the sub's amp. In my case, I could have had a sub for 3 pins, but I prefer to have two subs going since it really fills up the room with nice bass. We've had company over where 2 or 3 were being played at once, really didn't notice any issues.

There's a ghost in the machine I've been hunting for 2.5 years, the EOS addition doesn't fix it so don't bother with that.

Thanks for letting me know. I don’t seem to get the issues all the time but it really irritates me when i have a decent game going and I lose a ball because of it. I’m guessing since its been 2.5 years for you a fix is not gonna happen.

My Seance scoop does the same thing. I think the second eject attempt adds a bit of power and ball then comes out. I tried raising the power setting but it didn't seem to help so I just deal with it.

Has anyone seen this screen pop up on boot-up? Any solutions?

I have sent separate not to American Pinball - any help is appreciated.

Thanks...

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So it keeps going to this screen on power up? Did this just start or is this a new machine? That message tells me the computer is not seeing the SSD and/or the operating system.

Shutdown the machine, leave it for five minutes and try again. If is still happening we will take this offline and move through some more troubleshooting.

The game shipped with a small circuit board with buttons on. That can be attached to the small display to adjust it.

If it is falling short of the stage, might be due to the higher pitch. I assume the well struck balls are the ones that hit it. While it is not 100% kind of shot, 10% is certainly too low. You can try to tweak the angle a bit, but not a lot of room for adjustment without then hitting the pop and you need to remove a ramp and a plastic to get to the screw to loosen it and try to adjust it.

Thank you!

You are correct that the game will increase the power a bit if the scoop fails to clear. Sometimes adjusting the snubber will help, using a screw driver or nut driver, insert that into the scoop and gentle leverage the snubber bracket up just a tiny bit and see if that helps. Sometimes a slow motion video of the ball coming out can spot what the issue is.

I bought machine new in May but this recently started. It happens on power-up. I have tried many times to do a shutdowm and restart with no luck. I even tried to reload latest release but I am guessing it is not getting far enough along in the process to check the USB drive for an install. Thanks...

I did open a formal request on the American Pinball website as well.

Thanks...

Ron

PM sent with next steps.

The scoop 'hood' has to be bent in a very particular shape and angle. Sometimes you have to open it up to allow the ball more clearance - I actually had to bend it *down* a tiny bit, because the ball was hitting the top of the scoop at a high velocity, and banging down on the edge of the hole, then falling back in. Helps to take a slow-mo video on your phone if you can.

Recently revealed as being called a Snubber? (Thanks @rosh)

Amazing what you can learn here on pinside ! Lol

OK, I will do the slo mo video with my iPhone 11 Pro...I think it's equipped to do that and report back. Although tonight, it came out ever time...hmmm.

Anyone using a passive sub with this machine? Wondering if this little amp can do it on its own. There are some really nice passive subs for cheap.

Performance anxiety. I won’t tell.

Should be fine. If you want to look up the amp, it's a Lepai LP-168HA
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I built my own external speaker, I posted pictures on post #9098. I feel it is a big improvement.

Nice looking sub build and install. Ported or sealed?

For those that don't want to cut wood (and fingers ) but still want to keep it a DIY, Parts Express has subwoofer kits. Both active and passive.

You might want to check that the connectors are firmly seated into the CPU in the head. On my game, the weight of the wiring harness kept pulling the connector out of the computer. I fixed this by installing a nylon wire harness clamp to hold the wiring in place. Only took a couple of minutes to do.

Is there a consensus on who makes the best plastic protector set?

This one was sealed, I did quite a lot of reading and planning to get the optimal volume. I love Parts Express and have used them for many projects.

Rosh,
Any update on when we can expect the new code to become available..

He did say recently that with Hot Wheels on the line and rolling out, he’d have some time to work Houdini...

I have not had time to fully assess the feedback from the beta users or had time to investigate all of the reported bugs, to be able to set a target date.

I'm having a hard time seeing it well in my phone but I think you have the polarity backwards in the connector at J5, + or red should be to the outside of the board unless your board or mounting is different.

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Edit: looking at it closer it appears you are working this to a different solenoid bank than I did.

You definitely need to tie the negatives / grounds together as I stated in the directions I emailed to you and in a post a few days ago. If you didn't I'm surprised it didn't blow the fuse on the PD-16 board.

If just the two are locked on, it might just be the two, mosfets drivers, I believe they are Irl450, which are through hole and easily replaced.

Hopefully repairable and then you’ll have a spare board that will work on American pinball machines and some spooky machines.

Much cheaper board then p3-roc, and I’ve blown one of those . . . As a reminder never a good idea to be plugging things into a board with the game powered on

Just had an incredible game on Houdini. 5.2 million tonight.

No errors, no flipper collapse, everything was perfect.

I recently raised my flipper power so that i could barely make the ramp from a cradled position.

I did not change my playfield pitch from 6.25-6.3

No stage rejects.

Flippers drooped 2mm.

Power at the outlet 117v

The game plays amazing with the new beta code.

When Bob did this, I commented regarding the importance of tying all grounds together. In the custom game community many a game builder has made that costly mistake. Hopefully it is just the two drivers, which can be replaced fairly easily. Certainly worth the few dollars to find out. https://tinyurl.com/y8r4ex6l

Replacement driver boards can be purchased from our website, pinballlife or Multimorphic.

12.23.19 i believe.
The latest release

The biggest success was in finally getting a decent balance between playfield pitch, stage rejects and ramp shots.

I know that i said that the ramp was just a decoration before lol.

But i now know that it can be dialed-in.

I just set the left flipper power so that from a cradled position, a clean shot barely makes it over without dropping thru the hole.

Still, drooping the flippers 2mm or 1/8" opens up the game dramatically.

I made the milk can shot fairly easily on demand.

Seems perfect!

Hmmm... the game I bought has 18.8.1 installed on it. It plays very stable.

Am I missing out by not playing later code (or beta code)?

I haven’t had a chance to update or dial in gameplay yet... busy!

Im running the recent beta code

Yes, I understand that. I'm wondering how outdated the code on my machine is, gameplay-wise?

On my pin the Beta code loses track of the ball at times. I'm sticking with it as I have had some good games on it. But I do wish the code had more polish. The machine is built better than any Stern and deserves it.

Might just need the 3 lock switches adjusted.

I have mine set pretty close to the ball so they work constantly.

Its a pain to do, but after adjusting they stay adjusted.

I also would not recommend the beta code unless you are wanting to test and report errors... however I cannot wait for that beta code to be polished into the next release. It has some good stuff.