(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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#10751 31 days ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

Join the club. NIB. Got everything set up, trunk working great, havent had a miss yet. No problem hitting the shots. I am having issues with the flippers tho. Seems like they lose power randomly and at least once a game they start to go up then flop down. Machine does have the new power supply in it. I tried looking thru the pages for any kind of help but couldn’t find any. Maybe something about EOS upgrade. Game looks great and I like the layout but jeez, these flipper issues almost makes it unplayable.

Fid you update to the latest code?

EOS mod helps a bit, its worth it.

At least the flippers come back up without re-pressing the buttons.

#10752 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Fid you update to the latest code?
EOS mod helps a bit, its worth it.
At least the flippers come back up without re-pressing the buttons.

I did put the new code on. EOS hard to do?

#10753 31 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Apologies for hijacking MigthyGraves post, but here's mine. Both 8" subs. Different sizes tho. You don't need a lot of subwoofer to make a big difference. For me, two 8" woofers are fine for the six pins. Actually, really impressive for the most part. Stern Star Trek Pro is seriously fun w/a sub.[quoted image]

Thats a cool idea - can you explain how it works ? And have you trouble if all games running at the same time?

#10754 31 days ago

Two adjustment questions:

1) is there a way to adjust the location of the image on the theater display on the playfield? Mine is slightly cutoff on the left side.

2) Any tips on dialing in that dogleg right shot that’s to the left of the key shot (through the pops)?

Mine successfully hits the stage 1/10 times. Not sure if my playfield’s pitch. I’m guessing it’s between 6.5 and 7. My playfield is slightly slanted to the right (I need to level that... been having too much fun playing the game

#10755 31 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Thats a cool idea - can you explain how it works ? And have you trouble if all games running at the same time?

Here's the device that converts the woofer outputs to a low level, isolated signal for a mixer. Plenty of other similar devices, but these are inexpensive and work fine. I installed insulated alligator clips to make it easy to hook up to the internal woofer (on non-AP pins). Output is RCA, which I simply run under the pin's woofer (protected so it doesn't get crushed) to the bottom of the cabinet.
pasted_image (resized).png

I originally had a 4 channel mixer, but moved to a 6 channel later on. The mixer's output then goes to the active subs. I just used a RCA 'Y' splitter to get the 2 outputs for the subs.
pasted_image (resized).png

You really don't need much for a sub to make a big difference, and a couple of 8" subs sound great. With 6 pins in that row, I did feel I needed two subs otherwise the bass seems distant. I originally tried my 12" sub from my AV setup, but it was a bit much.
pasted_image (resized).png

To clean up the cable mess, I installed a cheap, plastic 'cable run' right above the baseboard to hide the wires that end in Keystone RCA jacks, then short cables to go from the Keystone jacks to the mixer. I also have RCA plugs on the cable run so I can disconnect a pin if needed. Very clean install. Prior, all the wires on the floor behind the pins drove me nuts.
pasted_image (resized).png

People have asked me about having all six pins being played at once. Can't answer that since it's really just me and the spouse playing - so only one pin is being played at a time. But there should't be an issue tho, other than maybe adjusting the levels so you don't overdrive the sub's amp. In my case, I could have had a sub for 3 pins, but I prefer to have two subs going since it really fills up the room with nice bass. We've had company over where 2 or 3 were being played at once, really didn't notice any issues.

#10756 31 days ago
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:

Join the club. NIB. Got everything set up, trunk working great, havent had a miss yet. No problem hitting the shots. I am having issues with the flippers tho. Seems like they lose power randomly and at least once a game they start to go up then flop down. Machine does have the new power supply in it. I tried looking thru the pages for any kind of help but couldn’t find any. Maybe something about EOS upgrade. Game looks great and I like the layout but jeez, these flipper issues almost makes it unplayable.

There's a ghost in the machine I've been hunting for 2.5 years, the EOS addition doesn't fix it so don't bother with that.

#10757 31 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

There's a ghost in the machine I've been hunting for 2.5 years, the EOS addition doesn't fix it so don't bother with that.

Thanks for letting me know. I don’t seem to get the issues all the time but it really irritates me when i have a decent game going and I lose a ball because of it. I’m guessing since its been 2.5 years for you a fix is not gonna happen.

#10758 31 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

I almost have my Houdini dialed in. My only remaining issue is the seance scoop. some times, it looks like the ball hits the top of the scoop and falls back into scoop. Adjusting power doesn't seem to help.
I read old post by Rosh. What have others done to address this?
Thanks.

My Seance scoop does the same thing. I think the second eject attempt adds a bit of power and ball then comes out. I tried raising the power setting but it didn't seem to help so I just deal with it.

#10759 30 days ago

Has anyone seen this screen pop up on boot-up? Any solutions?

I have sent separate not to American Pinball - any help is appreciated.

Thanks...

20200704_160821 (resized).jpg
#10760 30 days ago
Quoted from ronzomatic:

Has anyone seen this screen pop up on boot-up? Any solutions?
I have sent separate not to American Pinball - any help is appreciated.
Thanks...
[quoted image]

So it keeps going to this screen on power up? Did this just start or is this a new machine? That message tells me the computer is not seeing the SSD and/or the operating system.

Shutdown the machine, leave it for five minutes and try again. If is still happening we will take this offline and move through some more troubleshooting.

#10761 30 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

1) is there a way to adjust the location of the image on the theater display on the playfield? Mine is slightly cutoff on the left side.
2) Any tips on dialing in that dogleg right shot that’s to the left of the key shot (through the pops)?
Mine successfully hits the stage 1/10 times. Not sure if my playfield’s pitch. I’m guessing it’s between 6.5 and 7. My playfield is slightly slanted to the right (I need to level that... been having too much fun playing the game

The game shipped with a small circuit board with buttons on. That can be attached to the small display to adjust it.

If it is falling short of the stage, might be due to the higher pitch. I assume the well struck balls are the ones that hit it. While it is not 100% kind of shot, 10% is certainly too low. You can try to tweak the angle a bit, but not a lot of room for adjustment without then hitting the pop and you need to remove a ramp and a plastic to get to the screw to loosen it and try to adjust it.

#10762 30 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

The game shipped with a small circuit board with buttons on. That can be attached to the small display to adjust it.
If it is falling short of the stage, might be due to the higher pitch. I assume the well struck balls are the ones that hit it. While it is not 100% kind of shot, 10% is certainly too low. You can try to tweak the angle a bit, but not a lot of room for adjustment without then hitting the pop and you need to remove a ramp and a plastic to get to the screw to loosen it and try to adjust it.

Thank you!

#10763 30 days ago
Quoted from CUJO:

My Seance scoop does the same thing. I think the second eject attempt adds a bit of power and ball then comes out. I tried raising the power setting but it didn't seem to help so I just deal with it.

You are correct that the game will increase the power a bit if the scoop fails to clear. Sometimes adjusting the snubber will help, using a screw driver or nut driver, insert that into the scoop and gentle leverage the snubber bracket up just a tiny bit and see if that helps. Sometimes a slow motion video of the ball coming out can spot what the issue is.

#10764 30 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

So it keeps going to this screen on power up? Did this just start or is this a new machine? That message tells me the computer is not seeing the SSD and/or the operating system.
Shutdown the machine, leave it for five minutes and try again. If is still happening we will take this offline and move through some more troubleshooting.

I bought machine new in May but this recently started. It happens on power-up. I have tried many times to do a shutdowm and restart with no luck. I even tried to reload latest release but I am guessing it is not getting far enough along in the process to check the USB drive for an install. Thanks...

I did open a formal request on the American Pinball website as well.

Thanks...

Ron

#10765 30 days ago
Quoted from ronzomatic:

I bought machine new in May but this recently started. It happens on power-up. I have tried many times to do a shutdowm and restart with no luck. I even tried to reload latest release but I am guessing it is not getting far enough along in the process to check the USB drive for an install. Thanks...
I did open a formal request on the American Pinball website as well.
Thanks...
Ron

PM sent with next steps.

#10766 30 days ago
Quoted from CUJO:

My Seance scoop does the same thing. I think the second eject attempt adds a bit of power and ball then comes out. I tried raising the power setting but it didn't seem to help so I just deal with it.

The scoop 'hood' has to be bent in a very particular shape and angle. Sometimes you have to open it up to allow the ball more clearance - I actually had to bend it *down* a tiny bit, because the ball was hitting the top of the scoop at a high velocity, and banging down on the edge of the hole, then falling back in. Helps to take a slow-mo video on your phone if you can.

#10767 30 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The scoop 'hood

Recently revealed as being called a Snubber? (Thanks rosh)

Amazing what you can learn here on pinside ! Lol

#10768 29 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The scoop 'hood' has to be bent in a very particular shape and angle. Sometimes you have to open it up to allow the ball more clearance - I actually had to bend it *down* a tiny bit, because the ball was hitting the top of the scoop at a high velocity, and banging down on the edge of the hole, then falling back in. Helps to take a slow-mo video on your phone if you can.

OK, I will do the slo mo video with my iPhone 11 Pro...I think it's equipped to do that and report back. Although tonight, it came out ever time...hmmm.

#10769 29 days ago

Anyone using a passive sub with this machine? Wondering if this little amp can do it on its own. There are some really nice passive subs for cheap.

#10770 29 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Anyone using a passive sub with this machine? Wondering if this little amp can do it on its own. There are some really nice passive subs for cheap.

Yes i have a passive sub and it works perfect.

#10771 29 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

OK, I will do the slo mo video with my iPhone 11 Pro...I think it's equipped to do that and report back. Although tonight, it came out ever time...hmmm.

Performance anxiety. I won’t tell.

#10772 29 days ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Anyone using a passive sub with this machine? Wondering if this little amp can do it on its own. There are some really nice passive subs for cheap.

Should be fine. If you want to look up the amp, it's a Lepai LP-168HA
pasted_image (resized).png

#10773 29 days ago

I built my own external speaker, I posted pictures on post #9098. I feel it is a big improvement.

#10774 29 days ago
Quoted from Platypus:

I built my own external speaker, I posted pictures on post #9098. I feel it is a big improvement.

Nice looking sub build and install. Ported or sealed?

For those that don't want to cut wood (and fingers ) but still want to keep it a DIY, Parts Express has subwoofer kits. Both active and passive.

#10775 29 days ago
Quoted from ronzomatic:

I bought machine new in May but this recently started. It happens on power-up. I have tried many times to do a shutdowm and restart with no luck. I even tried to reload latest release but I am guessing it is not getting far enough along in the process to check the USB drive for an install. Thanks...
I did open a formal request on the American Pinball website as well.
Thanks...
Ron

You might want to check that the connectors are firmly seated into the CPU in the head. On my game, the weight of the wiring harness kept pulling the connector out of the computer. I fixed this by installing a nylon wire harness clamp to hold the wiring in place. Only took a couple of minutes to do.

#10776 28 days ago

Is there a consensus on who makes the best plastic protector set?

#10777 28 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Nice looking sub build and install. Ported or sealed?
For those that don't want to cut wood (and fingers ) but still want to keep it a DIY, Parts Express has subwoofer kits. Both active and passive.

This one was sealed, I did quite a lot of reading and planning to get the optimal volume. I love Parts Express and have used them for many projects.

#10778 28 days ago

Rosh,
Any update on when we can expect the new code to become available..

#10779 27 days ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Rosh,
Any update on when we can expect the new code to become available..

He did say recently that with Hot Wheels on the line and rolling out, he’d have some time to work Houdini...

#10780 27 days ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Rosh,
Any update on when we can expect the new code to become available..

I have not had time to fully assess the feedback from the beta users or had time to investigate all of the reported bugs, to be able to set a target date.

#10781 26 days ago

Can someone confirm that my wiring is OK? Before i powerUp the game.

Red ist V+ and black ist V- goes to J5 on pd-16 Driver board. The Red wire goes through the interlockswitch.

Only not sure about the j5 (1-2-3 Pin Order).

Thank you and best regards

Mighty

IMG_20200710_212557 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_212618 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_212634 (resized).jpgIMG_20200710_213900 (resized).jpg
#10782 26 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Can someone confirm that my wiring is OK? Before i powerUp the game.
Red ist V+ and black ist V- goes to J5 on pd-16 Driver board. The Red wire goes through the interlockswitch.
Only not sure about the j5 (1-2-3 Pin Order).
Thank you and best regards
Mighty
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm having a hard time seeing it well in my phone but I think you have the polarity backwards in the connector at J5, + or red should be to the outside of the board unless your board or mounting is different.

20200630_162159 (resized).jpg

Edit: looking at it closer it appears you are working this to a different solenoid bank than I did.

#10783 26 days ago

Hey bob thank you. I used the Brown 48v Input i think it's switched so that black is to the outside. Picture 3

So that the Flippers got an own Powersupply

#10784 24 days ago

so a little update:

I Installed the a second power supperply and connected it directly on J5 on the PD-16 Boards for the "Brown Bank" (Flippers, Left sling, catapult) trough the interlock switch. Now everytime i close the interlock switch all coils on this Bank/Channel (Brown) start to fire nonstop while game is booting.
-> Dont know whats wrong with this? - Or should the powersupplys use the same V-

So i disabled the second powersupply and switch back to the regular wiring. So now only the left flippercoil is firing nonstop when the interlockswitch is closed.

I don't know where I can look for to fix this... Maybe someone can chime in and help.

#10785 24 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

so a little update:
I Installed the a second power supperply and connected it directly on J5 on the PD-16 Boards for the "Brown Bank" (Flippers, Left sling, catapult) trough the interlock switch. Now everytime i close the interlock switch all coils on this Bank/Channel (Brown) start to fire nonstop while game is booting.
-> Dont know whats wrong with this? - Or should the powersupplys use the same V-
So i disabled the second powersupply and switch back to the regular wiring. So now only the left flippercoil is firing nonstop when the interlockswitch is closed.
I don't know where I can look for to fix this... Maybe someone can chime in and help.

You definitely need to tie the negatives / grounds together as I stated in the directions I emailed to you and in a post a few days ago. If you didn't I'm surprised it didn't blow the fuse on the PD-16 board.

#10786 24 days ago

Ah i'm an Indiot and yes fuse ist blown. Hope i haven't grilled my pd-16 board...

#10787 24 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Ah i'm an Indiot and yes fuse ist blown. Hope i haven't grilled my pd-16 board...

So replaced the fuse and i think the pd-16 is damaged - If I Close the interlock Switch the left Flipper and slingshot coil are constant under 48V.

I ordererd a new Board from a Distributor and i Hope the old one is maybe possible to fix by changing some electric parts.

I could cry - but 100 bucks more or less that's Life ...

#10788 24 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

So replaced the fuse and i think the pd-16 is damaged - If I Close the interlock Switch the left Flipper and slingshot coil are constant under 48V.
I ordererd a new Board from a Distributor and i Hope the old one is maybe possible to fix by changing some electric parts.
I could cry - but 100 bucks more or less that's Life ...

If just the two are locked on, it might just be the two, mosfets drivers, I believe they are Irl450, which are through hole and easily replaced.

Hopefully repairable and then you’ll have a spare board that will work on American pinball machines and some spooky machines.

Much cheaper board then p3-roc, and I’ve blown one of those . . . As a reminder never a good idea to be plugging things into a board with the game powered on

#10789 24 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

If just the two are locked on, it might just be the two, mosfets drivers, I believe they are Irl450, which are through hole and easily replaced.
Hopefully repairable and then you’ll have a spare board that will work on American pinball machines and some spooky machines.
Much cheaper board then p3-roc, and I’ve blown one of those . . . As a reminder never a good idea to be plugging things into a board with the game powered on

Thank you rosh - i will give it a try. My Problem was that i don't had the ground from the 48 shared with the other powersupply Like Bob said.
But yes you're right never change things while a machine ist running.

#10790 23 days ago

Just had an incredible game on Houdini. 5.2 million tonight.

No errors, no flipper collapse, everything was perfect.

I recently raised my flipper power so that i could barely make the ramp from a cradled position.

I did not change my playfield pitch from 6.25-6.3

No stage rejects.

Flippers drooped 2mm.

Power at the outlet 117v

The game plays amazing with the new beta code.

#10791 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Just had an incredible game on Houdini. 5.2 million tonight.
No errors, no flipper collapse, everything was perfect.
I recently raised my flipper power so that i could barely make the ramp from a cradled position.
I did not change my playfield pitch from 6.25-6.3
No stage rejects.
Flippers drooped 2mm.
Power at the outlet 117v
The game plays amazing with the new beta code.

Sounds awesome - which beta code did you use?

#10792 23 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Thank you rosh - i will give it a try. My Problem was that i don't had the ground from the 48 shared with the other powersupply Like Bob said.
But yes you're right never change things while a machine ist running.

When Bob did this, I commented regarding the importance of tying all grounds together. In the custom game community many a game builder has made that costly mistake. Hopefully it is just the two drivers, which can be replaced fairly easily. Certainly worth the few dollars to find out. https://tinyurl.com/y8r4ex6l

Replacement driver boards can be purchased from our website, pinballlife or Multimorphic.

#10793 23 days ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Sounds awesome - which beta code did you use?

12.23.19 i believe.
The latest release

The biggest success was in finally getting a decent balance between playfield pitch, stage rejects and ramp shots.

I know that i said that the ramp was just a decoration before lol.

But i now know that it can be dialed-in.

I just set the left flipper power so that from a cradled position, a clean shot barely makes it over without dropping thru the hole.

Still, drooping the flippers 2mm or 1/8" opens up the game dramatically.

I made the milk can shot fairly easily on demand.

Seems perfect!

#10794 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

12.23.19 i believe.
The latest release
The biggest success was in finally getting a decent balance between playfield pitch, stage rejects and ramp shots.
I know that i said that the ramp was just a decoration before lol.
But i now know that it can be dialed-in.
I just set the left flipper power so that from a cradled position, a clean shot barely makes it over without dropping thru the hole.
Still, drooping the flippers 2mm or 1/8" opens up the game dramatically.
I made the milk can shot fairly easily on demand.
Seems perfect!

Hmmm... the game I bought has 18.8.1 installed on it. It plays very stable.

Am I missing out by not playing later code (or beta code)?

I haven’t had a chance to update or dial in gameplay yet... busy!

#10795 23 days ago
Quoted from rosh:

When Bob did this, I commented regarding the importance of tying all grounds together. In the custom game community many a game builder has made that costly mistake. Hopefully it is just the two drivers, which can be replaced fairly easily. Certainly worth the few dollars to find out. https://tinyurl.com/y8r4ex6l
Replacement driver boards can be purchased from our website, pinballlife or Multimorphic.

yes - i was to fast and I wasn't paying attention. I hope i can fix it and if not 100 bucks more or less.... annoying but I have learned my lessons

#10796 23 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Hmmm... the game I bought has 18.8.1 installed on it. It plays very stable.
Am I missing out by not playing later code (or beta code)?
I haven’t had a chance to update or dial in gameplay yet... busy!

Im running the recent beta code

#10797 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im running the recent beta code

Yes, I understand that. I'm wondering how outdated the code on my machine is, gameplay-wise?

#10798 23 days ago

On my pin the Beta code loses track of the ball at times. I'm sticking with it as I have had some good games on it. But I do wish the code had more polish. The machine is built better than any Stern and deserves it.

#10799 23 days ago
Quoted from Kenz:

On my pin the Beta code loses track of the ball at times. I'm sticking with it as I have had some good games on it. But I do wish the code had more polish. The machine is built better than any Stern and deserves it.

Might just need the 3 lock switches adjusted.

I have mine set pretty close to the ball so they work constantly.

Its a pain to do, but after adjusting they stay adjusted.

#10800 21 days ago
Quoted from Kenz:

On my pin the Beta code loses track of the ball at times. I'm sticking with it as I have had some good games on it. But I do wish the code had more polish. The machine is built better than any Stern and deserves it.

I also would not recommend the beta code unless you are wanting to test and report errors... however I cannot wait for that beta code to be polished into the next release. It has some good stuff.

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