This is so cute. I can almost imagine a corner i'll never visit half way round the world.
Is anyone selling any Houdini mods? I'm looking for the robot, pinball poster mod, or water torture mod.
hey guys,
i still have some lacking with the flipper coil power on my houdini. I installed the Powersupply and the Eos kit. So far so good the coil power is good. But sometimes they haven't enough power and the powerloss is noticeable (during multiballs, or when other coils working).
Maybe a tech savvy person can chime in and find a workaround - like a daughter board to stabilize the coil voltage like a Boost Step-up converter or something.
That would be awesome.
I would like to test something like this and put it in the flipper coil curcuit.
ebay.com link: 1200W 20A DC Konverter Boost Step up Stromversorgungsmodul 8 60V 12 83V 40 85
But I'm not sure if that's just possible - cause i don't know exactly which coil voltage is applied when idling and which one when the pinball button is pressed.
I hope we can take a step forward together like Rosh with his code update
Or should this Board fix the high voltage power?
https://www.multimorphic.com/store/circuit-boards/power-entry/
Quoted from MightyGrave:hey guys,
i still have some lacking with the flipper coil power on my houdini. I installed the Powersupply and the Eos kit. So far so good the coil power is good. But sometimes they haven't enough power and the powerloss is noticeable (during multiballs, or when other coils working).
Maybe a tech savvy person can chime in and find a workaround - like a daughter board to stabilize the coil voltage like a Boost Step-up converter or something.
That would be awesome.
I would like to test something like this and put it in the flipper coil curcuit.
ebay.com link » 1200w 20a Dc Konverter Boost Step Up Stromversorgungsmodul 8 60v 12 83v 40 85
But I'm not sure if that's just possible - cause i don't know exactly which coil voltage is applied when idling and which one when the pinball button is pressed.
I hope we can take a step forward together like Rosh with his code update
You can look through the thread, but the only “fix” that has been found is to buy a voltage stabilizer. Or you can call an electrician to measure both legs of your electrical circuit- they may not be balanced. Try several outlets in your home if you can.
Im not sure how extensively AP tested European power scenarios. Perhaps AP could supply you with an alternate power supply ?
Quoted from MightyGrave:hey guys,
i still have some lacking with the flipper coil power on my houdini. I installed the Powersupply and the Eos kit. So far so good the coil power is good. But sometimes they haven't enough power and the powerloss is noticeable (during multiballs, or when other coils working).
Maybe a tech savvy person can chime in and find a workaround - like a daughter board to stabilize the coil voltage like a Boost Step-up converter or something.
That would be awesome.
I would like to test something like this and put it in the flipper coil curcuit.
ebay.com link » 1200w 20a Dc Konverter Boost Step Up Stromversorgungsmodul 8 60v 12 83v 40 85
But I'm not sure if that's just possible - cause i don't know exactly which coil voltage is applied when idling and which one when the pinball button is pressed.
I hope we can take a step forward together like Rosh with his code update
It would be an interesting experiment to bump the coil voltage from 48V to 70V for the flippers but I'd have to really study the power distribution system in detail (the manual is not real clear in this regard). Keep in mind that, like any pinball machine I know of, the voltage applied is always the same (or it should be), it is the ground that gets switched on and off for each coil as it's activated. This is done by the P3-ROC driver boards mounted under the playfield and in theory they wouldn't really need to be modified at all but I don't think you'd want 70V going to the pop-bumpers and vuks though it may help stabilize the catapult during heavy use too. I have been so close to buying a nice digital storage oscilloscope many times to try to diagnose what happens under load but I just can't justify the cost. I should check eBay for used ones. It's a shame because this is really the only chink in the armor for this game but given the relatively low number of games sold (supposedly) and the fact they have moved on to other titles I don't really expect this to ever be addressed by API.
Quoted from bobukcat:It would be an interesting experiment to bump the coil voltage from 48V to 70V for the flippers but I'd have to really study the power distribution system in detail (the manual is not real clear in this regard). Keep in mind that, like any pinball machine I know of, the voltage applied is always the same (or it should be), it is the ground that gets switched on and off for each coil as it's activated. This is done by the P3-ROC driver boards mounted under the playfield and in theory they wouldn't really need to be modified at all but I don't think you'd want 70V going to the pop-bumpers and vuks though it may help stabilize the catapult during heavy use too. I have been so close to buying a nice digital storage oscilloscope many times to try to diagnose what happens under load but I just can't justify the cost. I should check eBay for used ones. It's a shame because this is really the only chink in the armor for this game but given the relatively low number of games sold (supposedly) and the fact they have moved on to other titles I don't really expect this to ever be addressed by API.
Well rumor is Houdini sold more units than Oktoberfest. Does Oktoberfest have the same flipper issues under load? How about Hot Wheels? If not, then they must have determined what is causing it and know how to solve it? It would be a nice gesture to the early adopters if they would share this information. I believe the only official explanation has been low line voltage which they addressed with the add on switching power supply. According to Rosh the EOS switches should have no effect on the flipper power.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Well rumor is Houdini sold more units than Oktoberfest. Does Oktoberfest have the same flipper issues under load? How about Hot Wheels? If not, then they must have determined what is causing it and know how to solve it? It would be a nice gesture to the early adopters if they would share this information.
yes that would be nice - I got the 3rd Houdini in Europe - and had alot of trouble. But I keep the machine and stick with API cause I want to support little manufactures. I only want to find a final solution for this machine.
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Well rumor is Houdini sold more units than Oktoberfest. Does Oktoberfest have the same flipper issues under load? How about Hot Wheels? If not they must have determined what is causing it and know how to solve it?
I've never seen a flipper issue with Oktoberfest when playing it but I don't own one. However I'm pretty sure it's the magnets in Houdini that cause the issue as it only happens when SEANCE multiball is running and the three big magnets are firing like crazy. I've been meaning to try disconnecting them (unfortunately you can't adjust these via settings like you can many of the other coils) from the driver board to see if it makes a difference or not but I just end up playing it as is.
Quoted from bobukcat:It would be an interesting experiment to bump the coil voltage from 48V to 70V for the flippers but I'd have to really study the power distribution system in detail (the manual is not real clear in this regard). Keep in mind that, like any pinball machine I know of, the voltage applied is always the same (or it should be), it is the ground that gets switched on and off for each coil as it's activated. This is done by the P3-ROC driver boards mounted under the playfield and in theory they wouldn't really need to be modified at all but I don't think you'd want 70V going to the pop-bumpers and vuks though it may help stabilize the catapult during heavy use too. I have been so close to buying a nice digital storage oscilloscope many times to try to diagnose what happens under load but I just can't justify the cost. I should check eBay for used ones. It's a shame because this is really the only chink in the armor for this game but given the relatively low number of games sold (supposedly) and the fact they have moved on to other titles I don't really expect this to ever be addressed by API.
I use a variac for houdini and the new powersupply with eos kit.
Yes I took a look at the manual but not shure how it all works together and which frequency is used. I have no trouble with the catapult under heavy use. Only the flippers became "powerless" from time to time and then they are strong as they should. And yes it happens mostly if the magnet is in use or shortly after.
I want to understand the reason for this pinball behavior and find a solution. There must be a way to fix the cause
Quoted from bobukcat:coil voltage from 48V to 70V
There are safety consideration if switching to 70V, both for you and the machine. It will certainly make the flipper hold stronger what other impact it has I can't be sure. While the P-roc and driver boards can handle 70V, it does not come without risk, as, shorting 70v to other parts of the electrical system can cause far more significant damage then 48V (I speak from experience, as I ran one of my custom games on 70V).
If you are not running the beta code, you should start with that, as it has some changes around power during multiball and some other changes around the control system.
You would think AP would be all over this. Flagship game.
At some point folks looking at Hot Wheels are going to see this thread.
Quoted from Daditude:Is anyone not using a mod couple water torture mod that you could sell me?
The Hooked on pinball version is still available, but does cost more . . .
Quoted from rosh:There are safety consideration if switching to 70V, both for you and the machine. It will certainly make the flipper hold stronger what other impact it has I can't be sure. While the P-roc and driver boards can handle 70V, it does not come without risk, as, shorting 70v to other parts of the electrical system can cause far more significant damage then 48V (I speak from experience, as I ran one of my custom games on 70V).
If you are not running the beta code, you should start with that, as it has some changes around power during multiball and some other changes around the control system.
Thank you for your Input rosh. I'm running theblast Beta Code. And it's better then before No doubt but it's still not complete.
I'm not shure If 70v ist needed. For me it's more about ton get a stable voltage at the coils.
I would test All Things that are possible and can Help us all to find a solution.
Quoted from MightyGrave:Thank you for your Input rosh. I'm running theblast Beta Code. And it's better then before No doubt but it's still not complete.
I'm not shure If 70v ist needed. For me it's more about ton get a stable voltage at the coils.
I would test All Things that are possible and can Help us all to find a solution.
Its not impossible or even difficult to add a supplemental flipper board.
Willians did it.
Just unplug the flippers and re-route thru a more stable, higher power circuit.
48v input
70v out
48v return
I dont think 70v is the whole answer.
On max power the flippers are actually too strong for the game.
Hold power would be improved, and flippers would be more aggressive, but thats not quite it.
Since the flippers (or at least one flipper) completely die for a just a moment, its a matter of stability.
It seems to be driver or driver congestion or code related for the most part.
Its like they are switched off to allow some other process to work and then they go back on again.
With the upgraded power supply there is plenty of power available.
I was thinking that it was a cpu problem at one time, basically just busy.
But the PROC can handle quite a bit of data, much more than what is required for a game.
Still the flippers seem to be on hold or disconnected once in awhile depending on conditions in the game.
Maybe a lost call or instruction when things get busy.
For example:
I have had my right flipper die and just collapse on its own without being struck by a ball, during seance.
Its not a bad flipper switch or broken/loose wire or even power related.
Quoted from rosh:The Hooked on pinball version is still available, but does cost more . . .
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p132/Houdini-Chinese-3D-Water-Torture-Tank-with-Harry-Houdini.html
I saw that, but I am holding out hope that the mod couple will make more or that someone has an extra (or one that has not been installed)
Quoted from Jgaltr56:Well rumor is Houdini sold more units than Oktoberfest. Does Oktoberfest have the same flipper issues under load? How about Hot Wheels? If not, then they must have determined what is causing it and know how to solve it? It would be a nice gesture to the early adopters if they would share this information. I believe the only official explanation has been low line voltage which they addressed with the add on switching power supply. According to Rosh the EOS switches should have no effect on the flipper power.
I have an Oktoberfest!, and have not had any issues at all.
Quoted from Daditude:I saw that, but I am holding out hope that the mod couple will make more or that someone has an extra (or one that has not been installed)
I can't see them making more. I asked about some mods that sold out and they said no way they'll be doing another run because 'not enough machines were produced'.
I just noticed that when the ball is in the shooter lane for skill shot if you soft plunge just enough to activate the shooter lane switch then let the ball roll back down it changes the options offered for the skill shot. I have no idea if it's always been this way and I just never noticed it because I never soft plunge that weakly or if this is new in the Beta code but it certainly opens up some options. Personally I just go for the super skill shot most of the time particularly if I've been playing the game for a while and have a good feel for the plunger.
I’ve had this game for about 2 years now and I’m guessing the super skill shot is the magic target? Yes being very ignorant here as I’ve never read it
Quoted from Audioenslaved:I’ve had this game for about 2 years now and I’m guessing the super skill shot is the magic target? Yes being very ignorant here as I’ve never read it
Yes, it is the left Magic standup. I had to adjust mine to make it sensitive enough to register the shot.
My game has developed a rather odd issue; the right lock will no longer release a ball unless there are two or three balls locked there and even then it takes several tries. I had adjusted this a long time ago and had to move the whole solenoid assembly pretty far up the bracket to keep it from releasing two balls at a time while still reliably releasing a single one when that's all that was locked there. Now the solenoid pulses so quickly it won't release a single ball no matter what. The behavior is the same in test or in-game, it pulses very quickly. I even moved the solenoid / post assembly all the way down the bracket and have tried every setting available for that coil with no luck. It's like the game has no "hold" pulses for that coil now and just fires the initial pulse which is way too fast to possibly release a ball even with the slope on mine set to ~6.8 degrees. I've power cycled the game multiple times and may try re-loading the Beta code or last released version to see if I can resolve it. If that doesn't do it I may try swapping solenoid driver boards in the game to see if it's somehow caused by that.
Quoted from bobukcat:My game has developed a rather odd issue; the right lock will no longer release a ball unless there are two or three balls locked there and even then it takes several tries. I had adjusted this a long time ago and had to move the whole solenoid assembly pretty far up the bracket to keep it from releasing two balls at a time while still reliably releasing a single one when that's all that was locked there. Now the solenoid pulses so quickly it won't release a single ball no matter what. The behavior is the same in test or in-game, it pulses very quickly. I even moved the solenoid / post assembly all the way down the bracket and have tried every setting available for that coil with no luck. It's like the game has no "hold" pulses for that coil now and just fires the initial pulse which is way too fast to possibly release a ball even with the slope on mine set to ~6.8 degrees. I've power cycled the game multiple times and may try re-loading the Beta code or last released version to see if I can resolve it. If that doesn't do it I may try swapping solenoid driver boards in the game to see if it's somehow caused by that.
If it only ejects with two balls then often means the post is not pulling fully down and the tip is still up, but the weight of the second ball is enough to push first ball over.
Double check the plunger when down is low enough and freely moving.
Coil adjustment for releases control time not strength. If you try the two extremes, in game play, can you see a difference in how long the plunger is down?
Quoted from rosh:If it only ejects with two balls then often means the post is not pulling fully down and the tip is still up, but the weight of the second ball is enough to push first ball over.
Double check the plunger when down is low enough and freely moving.
Coil adjustment for releases control time not strength. If you try the two extremes, in game play, can you see a difference in how long the plunger is down?
The plunger moves freely and definitely hits the coil stop and especially now that I've moved it all the way down it definitely goes far enough to let a ball get past, in fact this setup would almost always release two balls if they were in there before this issue started. It is simply not holding the plunger down at all, no matter what I have it set to. This applies to ball search too, it just instantly pops back up. I'm going to try re-loading code when I can, unfortunately that won't be until tomorrow most likely.
Just picked up a Houdini a few weeks ago and I’m really liking it so far. A couple questions though. What is the most recent code that I should be running? Also it seems I have a lot of air balls. Does anyone else have this problem? I turned my flipper power down a couple below factory default but it seems like I could use that power for some shots. It seems to be when I hit the seance targets is when I get the air balls. I seen this mod for target brackets that this company offers for stern games where the target bracket is angled forward a couple degrees wondering if I could use the same bracket to see if that helps.
Cheers
Jamie
Quoted from bobukcat:My game has developed a rather odd issue; the right lock will no longer release a ball unless there are two or three balls locked there and even then it takes several tries. I had adjusted this a long time ago and had to move the whole solenoid assembly pretty far up the bracket to keep it from releasing two balls at a time while still reliably releasing a single one when that's all that was locked there. Now the solenoid pulses so quickly it won't release a single ball no matter what. The behavior is the same in test or in-game, it pulses very quickly. I even moved the solenoid / post assembly all the way down the bracket and have tried every setting available for that coil with no luck. It's like the game has no "hold" pulses for that coil now and just fires the initial pulse which is way too fast to possibly release a ball even with the slope on mine set to ~6.8 degrees. I've power cycled the game multiple times and may try re-loading the Beta code or last released version to see if I can resolve it. If that doesn't do it I may try swapping solenoid driver boards in the game to see if it's somehow caused by that.
Update: reloading the Beta code fixed the ball release issue and the problem I had where using the Clear Balls utility would cause the game to reboot before it cleared the balls. Now to re-adjust my ball release mech so it consistently only releases one ball at a time.
Has anyone came up with a fix for the milk can shot from the right flipper?
Seems the only way I dont get a bounce out is if i hit the right sling with the left flipper and hope for a rebound.
I dropped the flippers a small amount like most people here said to do, and it still hits it and comes back out. Would like to hear if this has worked for everyone.
Quoted from finnflash:I dropped the flippers a small amount like most people here said to do, and it still hits it and comes back out. Would like to hear if this has worked for everyone.
It made my shots more condistant and repeatable
2mm or 1/8" is all it takes.
More, affects shots to the ramp.
Quoted from Pinhead306:Just picked up a Houdini a few weeks ago and I’m really liking it so far. A couple questions though. What is the most recent code that I should be running? Also it seems I have a lot of air balls. Does anyone else have this problem? I turned my flipper power down a couple below factory default but it seems like I could use that power for some shots. It seems to be when I hit the seance targets is when I get the air balls. I seen this mod for target brackets that this company offers for stern games where the target bracket is angled forward a couple degrees wondering if I could use the same bracket to see if that helps.
Cheers
Jamie
Sounds to me like you have the flipper power too high. What slope do you have the game setup to? It was designed to be pretty flat (6.5 degrees) but I like it a little steeper at about 6.7.
I think I have mine set to 6.9 degrees but I’ll have to check. Also I turned the flipper power down to I think 2 or 3 lower then factory settings. Maybe I should try a little less steep?
Cheers
Quoted from Pinhead306:I think I have mine set to 6.9 degrees but I’ll have to check. Also I turned the flipper power down to I think 2 or 3 lower then factory settings. Maybe I should try a little less steep?
Cheers
Yes, I'd flatten it a bit then turn down the flipper power more, you should get less airballs but still be able to make the all the shots.
.
Decided to do some testing on the issues with Flipper weakness and short catapult launches during dual MBs today. The magnets are very easy to disconnect so I unhooked all three and then with the glass off started a combination of seance and trunks MBs ten times, being sure to earn the seance jackpot and super jackpot as close to simultaneously as possible while flipping like crazy and triggering switches. In all ten instances I didn't have a single short catapult throw and the flippers maintain their snappiness. I hooked all three magnets back up and repeated the process and I could tell the difference in the flippers almost immediately, I also experienced two really weak catapult launches, not even reaching the base of the trunk enough to make it to the upper catapult. This leads me to believe the issue is definitely still power related even with the upgraded power supply installed. I'm going to look into a logging voltage meter to see if I can track the 48 volt power supply output during load, even better if I can find one that can also measure DC current at the same time to see what it's peaking out at. I may do some more testing with just two magnets connected as well but it's really boring playing seance MB without all the great action the magnets provide. The flippers are not on the same solenoid driver board as the magnets so it's not an issue of an individual board getting maxed out.
Quoted from bobukcat:Decided to do some testing on the issues with Flipper weakness and short catapult launches during dual MBs today. The magnets are very easy to disconnect so I unhooked all three and then with the glass off started a combination of seance and trunks MBs ten times, being sure to earn the seance jackpot and super jackpot as close to simultaneously as possible while flipping like crazy and triggering switches. In all ten instances I didn't have a single short catapult throw and the flippers maintain their snappiness. I hooked all three magnets back up and repeated the process and I could tell the difference in the flippers almost immediately, I also experienced two really weak catapult launches, not even reaching the base of the trunk enough to make it to the upper catapult. This leads me to believe the issue is definitely still power related even with the upgraded power supply installed. I'm going to look into a logging voltage meter to see if I can track the 48 volt power supply output during load, even better if I can find one that can also measure DC current at the same time to see what it's peaking out at. I may do some more testing with just two magnets connected as well but it's really boring playing seance MB without all the great action the magnets provide. The flippers are not on the same solenoid driver board as the magnets so it's not an issue of an individual board getting maxed out.
Great troubleshooting. This machine, cosmetically, is great. It's a great first machine for any company but it has its flaws. The tight shots and the weak flippers being the biggest. After adding the power supply and EOS switches and no change in the flipper issue I wound up selling my game. NOT just strictly due to these issues as being that I only have room for 2 machines had an impact on my decision as well. Being that Houdini's flipper issue annoyed me enough I sold it and got a WoZ in its place.
Some day when someone figures out a fix for the flipper issue and I have more space I certainly wouldnt mind getting a Houdini again, especially with the price on it dropping. Just saw 5700 for a NIB one, for this machine that's a steal!
Dicked around with levels and settings on mine yesterday. When i first got it it was landing in the trunk 95% of the time. I moved it a month or so later when the carpet went down out the back and it started hitting the back board.
Dicked around yesterday as it wanted steepening anyway and i lifted it an inch or so at the back. Then fucked around with the trunk power settings and lowered them till it's now hitting the trunk 80% of the time.
I'd actually offered it in a proposed swap and that's why i bothered adjusting to get it right, but thankfully it was rejected as after playing a few games i'd had a change of heart about letting it go. Such a beautiful machine to look at, just stunning even in attract.
Quoted from meSz:Great troubleshooting. This machine, cosmetically, is great. It's a great first machine for any company but it has its flaws. The tight shots and the weak flippers being the biggest. After adding the power supply and EOS switches and no change in the flipper issue I wound up selling my game. NOT just strictly due to these issues as being that I only have room for 2 machines had an impact on my decision as well. Being that Houdini's flipper issue annoyed me enough I sold it and got a WoZ in its place.
Some day when someone figures out a fix for the flipper issue and I have more space I certainly wouldnt mind getting a Houdini again, especially with the price on it dropping. Just saw 5700 for a NIB one, for this machine that's a steal!
It is a great game, even with the rare flipper / power issues under load. What I really wish would get fixed in code is ball tracking though and this was really just driven home a few minutes ago. I'm playing Houdini and when it went to release one ball from the left lock two actually came out, shit happens right? But the game would not recover from that during that ball, if a ball drained it kicked it back out, I hit the inner loop and it released it again. Ten minutes later I'm playing WOZ, I have one ball locked in Munchinkland, hit another ball up the ramp and it accidentally lets both balls through, shit happens, right? I immediately hit one of the two right back up the ramp and it holds it and lets me continue to play the ball as if it never happened. THAT is what I expect from a modern pinball machine.
My distro told me AP owners made the call not put any effort into fixing the game. This was early on once they knew there was a problem.
Rosh has hung in there with us so far and for that I am very very grateful. Rosh is a great guy.
After installing the latest beta install my machine went nuts.
Lost ball, sitting idle etc.
Over time it has calmed down.
I like the company's build quality but HOUDINI needs fixing as it is their Flagship 1st game.
I wanted to buy the grand kids a Hot wheels but I am not buying anything from AP until they announce a fix for Houdini.
Rant over. Back to playing AFMr.
Quoted from bobukcat:Decided to do some testing on the issues with Flipper weakness and short catapult launches during dual MBs today. The magnets are very easy to disconnect so I unhooked all three and then with the glass off started a combination of seance and trunks MBs ten times, being sure to earn the seance jackpot and super jackpot as close to simultaneously as possible while flipping like crazy and triggering switches. In all ten instances I didn't have a single short catapult throw and the flippers maintain their snappiness. I hooked all three magnets back up and repeated the process and I could tell the difference in the flippers almost immediately, I also experienced two really weak catapult launches, not even reaching the base of the trunk enough to make it to the upper catapult. This leads me to believe the issue is definitely still power related even with the upgraded power supply installed. I'm going to look into a logging voltage meter to see if I can track the 48 volt power supply output during load, even better if I can find one that can also measure DC current at the same time to see what it's peaking out at. I may do some more testing with just two magnets connected as well but it's really boring playing seance MB without all the great action the magnets provide. The flippers are not on the same solenoid driver board as the magnets so it's not an issue of an individual board getting maxed out.
So we need more current flow.
The magnets are sucking the game dry.
Higher watrage supply?
I always though the add on was weak at 750w
More like 1500w would be nice.
Wow, so a company made a decision that would be damaging if it got out and then blabbed about it to your distributor eh?
Sounds convincing.
Quoted from pinballinreno:So we need more current flow.
The magnets are sucking the game dry.
Higher watrage supply?
I always though the add on was weak at 750w
More like 1500w would be nice.
This is what is needed to put the power supply issue to rest: Put a scope on the upgraded power supply and see if the voltage droops. Trigger it to sweep on the falling edge (say, 44V) and just play some games. Then check the scope to see if it ever droops. Ideally, use a clamp on current probe (for the scope) to look at the current at the same time. With those two bits of info, it would either indicate the PS should be beefed up or it's fine.
I should add, I have both a scope and scope compatible current probe. But been busy and my Houdini is well behaved - but it would be interesting to see.
Quoted from pinballinreno:So we need more current flow.
The magnets are sucking the game dry.
Higher watrage supply?
I always though the add on was weak at 750w
More like 1500w would be nice.
I have a second 48W 1200watt powersupply Here. If you can Tell me how to run two powersupplys parallel at the same time i can give it a try.
I need only the Instruction how to Connect it.
Or is there a possibility to run the Magnets with an own 'powerline'...
I'm ready
Quoted from MightyGrave:I have a second 48W 1200watt powersupply Here. If you can Tell ne how to run two powersupplys parallel the Same time i can give it a try.
I need only the Instruction how to Connect it.
Or is there a possibility to run the Magnets with an own 'powerline'...
I'm ready an can Test tomorrow
Running in parallel gives more power and has no affect on voltage.
Then i think i would test a
"DC-DC 10V-60V to 13V-97V 1500W 30A Step-Up Voltage Regulator Power Modul"
It's about 25$ - maybe this placed between the powersupply and the wagoclamp for the Boards could stabilize the 48v?!
Quoted from pinballinreno:Running in parallel gives more power and has no affect on voltage.
I'd likely be a little careful about connecting two switcher supplies in parallel if they are a buck-boost topology. Buck-boost implies there's an ALC loop (automatic level control loop, for lack of a better phrase for power supplies) in the supply to keep the output voltage constant, despite the load (within reason). Not sure what would happen if two supplies are connected in parallel. But I can envision one loop fighting the other loop unless it's done right (meaning the two loops are referenced together and work in unison).
Don't mean to 'rain on anyone's parade', but I occasionally design circuits with ALC loops. There's certain issues that can crop up if you are not careful.
Sorry about going off in the weeds about the technical stuff.
Quoted from mbwalker:I'd likely be a little careful about connecting two switcher supplies in parallel if they are a buck-boost topology. Buck-boost implies there's an ALC loop (automatic level control, for lack of a better phrase for power supplies) in the supply to keep the output voltage constant, despite the load (within reason). Not sure what would happen if two supplies are connected in parallel. But I can envision one loop fighting the other loop unless it's done right (meaning the two loops are referenced together and work in unison).
Don't mean to 'rain on anyone's parade', but I occasionally design circuits with ALC loops. There's certain issues that can crop up if you are not careful.
Sorry about going off in the weeds about the technical stuff.
Then a stadard supply possibly?
if it is p-roc driver boards, those have two sides with 8 drivers, and each with its own power feed, so, you might be able to just run a different power supply to one of the banks
Quoted from pinballinreno:Then a standard supply possibly?
Nah, at least not initially.
I just think it wouldn't hurt to go off and see what the upgraded supply is really doing if people think this is an issue (I'm not convinced).
My Houdini, as least with my poor playing skills, has been rock solid with the upgraded power supply. I can only recall one time in maybe the last year the trunk shot missed, and I can't ever recall the flippers having an issue. And my games usually have the magnets going.
If I did take a look at the power supply, it would be more from a curiosity aspect rather than trying to point to issues w/the power supply.
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