Do you have the upgraded powersupply? Sorry...didn't go back to check prior posts.

Not sure if I do or not. I'm guessing I don't since the seller I bought it from never mentioned it.

If not, it's worth the upgrade, for sure.

That will go a long way toward addressing your catapult issues. Some owners have had to make additional adjustments, but this is the simplest way to address it. Makes the game play way better as well

Do you have the updated power supply? Is the air conditioner on the same circuit as the pinball machine? I use line conditioners on dedicated lines to ensure 120volts

Sounds like I need the updated power supply, not sure if AC is on same circuit.

I think all houdini's will benefit from the upgraded supply.

It doesnt solve everything, but takes care of a lot of difficult issues.

Also adding the EOS switches helps a lot.

Look for this guy in the bottom of the cabinet. That's the new one.

Oops... hit the button too soon. See below.

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Without out the regulated supply, any variation in line voltage will translate into a change in the 48V voltage supply. If the mains drop 10%, so will the 48V. The new supply is what they call 'buck-boost'. If the main voltage droops or increases, the new power supply will still main a constant voltage (within reason).

Aghhh what

Mine is missing left n right. So not a matter of being short.

I think there is a bug when playing "movie binge", the mission starts multiball but after losing 2 balls, I continue the mission with a single ball.
Is this normal?
Another bug, when you cancel the video animation of the escape missions, there are no longer the corresponding sounds then playing the mission

Losing sounds happens a lot if you cancel out animations.

Sometimes the sound comes back. Sometimes it doesn't, or comes back on the next ball.

Low power usually misses left.
High power usually misses right.

I put the game on a variac to correct this.

But currently the variac is disconnected. The upgraded power supply seems to correct this behavior well enough.

My power changes throughout the day from 113v to 121v continuously.

All of my games are affected.
New, old, it doesn't matter.

I have my WOZ on a variac set to 115v and adjusted the game to play well at that power.

Plays very good now.

Thank you, and for the "movie binge" mode, is it a bug to play this mission in a single ball?

With the new power supply, it is much more stable but from time to time, we feel a slight drop in power in the drummers.
Hoping that the next code defines these small problems

Nobody to explain me the rules of the mod mini wizard "movie binge" ?

So get this, I dropped the coil setting to 26 and ball is now making it. In test at 27 I notice the ball was hitting the plastic ramp. When I dialed it down to 26 it slightly hits the plastic ramp but makes the trunk. Anyone else notice this???

Hello,
I really think that the mode mini wizard mode "movie" has problems.
I tested by hand and I played the mission in a ball.
Sometimes it's a multiball, sometimes it's a ball, the mission has no stopwatch and stops only when there is no more ball, the screen of the theater indicated another mission ,,,, everything is weird

Move the catapult slightly to the right, like this, the ball will no longer hit the ramp and everything will work well.

someone has news of the next code?

What code version are you on? Something is definitely up with your game

Hello, I have the latest code 19.4.7.
Everything else seems to work properly.
If anyone can explain this mission to me, how much ball does it play? how does it end?

Another question, during the multibill seance, drummers on some shots are less powerful, is this normal compared to this mode or is it due to the known problem?
I play with the power 29 left and 27 right and except during this mode SEANCE, the rest of the time, the drummers work very well. By cons, if I lower the power, I have random losses of power.
It is not dangerous for the power supply to play at 29 and 27?
I specify that everything else works perfectly.

27/29 settings should be ok, but you may risk breaking some plastics or the ramp if it’s too powerful

Joined the club today. What an amazing game! No issues at all except the milkcan shot doesn’t seem to be registering. Blew it up on like my fifth game and got 1.9M. Absolutely superb game, this one’s a keeper!
1A644729-2ED8-46D2-A713-4F0FC01F291A (resized).jpegDA00F068-71EA-4C3B-A44F-13017F9FDD61 (resized).jpeg512722EE-9B98-49C7-A26F-8AB7E4935C3D (resized).jpegD6B736BB-DFB4-4710-9C7F-3B170496617F (resized).jpeg

crickets

They seem to be working on Oktoberfest at the same time. I don’t know if it’s both Ferret and Josh who are working on Houdini, or just Josh

Joined the club over the weekend. Beautiful game and so much fun. It’s the only game I’ve ever had where it plays better with longer legs in the front. Is that how others have the game set up? I think the guy I bought it from had them all at the lowest setting.

huh? Do you mean you have it basically flat?

Joe Balcer designed the game to play more like at about 6 degrees, which would be where all your levelers are screwed all the way up. (assuming you have a flat floor), but this feels a little 'floaty' to most players. Many of us have it set to about 6.2 or so - screw the levelers all the way up, then take the rear legs out about 5-8 threads

Yeah, I’ll play around with it a bit. It’s playing pretty good but when I had the back up higher it seemed like I was getting a lot of rejects on the right ramp. Could be my flipper cool strength too. Thanks!

The ramp definitely takes some getting used to - you have to hit it higher up on the flipper than most other games, and as a result it can help to have higher flipper strength. But if you make it TOO strong, you'll get rejects Get the game levelers all the way in, then raise it like I mentioned above. Then you can play with the flipper strength - I believe everybody has raised both flippers a point or two, but you do have to dial in your own game specifically

My flippers are up 2 from factory.
Ramp is hard to make, but doable. Pitch is 6.15 average.

I'm working out stage rejects still.

Too high of a flipper power and everything works really good except for the stage rejects.

I keep going back and forth on this.

direct stage shots, or do you go through the alley lane? I tend to shoot for the alley lane and they land in and stay in the stage effectively

Shots from the alley are dead on and stick.

Direct shots are problematic.
If they are deflected shots they go in pretty good.

Direct, centered shots bounce out 75% of the time.

I was working on a shock absorbing pad for the rear of the stage but that has only yielded partial results.

It's much like a newly restored IJ.
IJ mode start shots without modification on a newly clearcoated game is near 100% rejected.

So I'm still thinking of modifications for the stage.

My pinball is set to 6.4 .... power drummers 29 and 27 ... it avoids feeling too much power loss drummers (pending the future code)

Yep, exactly. I modded my IJ to remove the ball guard, and installed the Pinbits dead bounce foam. Worked absolutely perfectly.

Was it already a known thing that if you hit the ramp again after the milkcan multiplier combo it will increase to the next level without hitting the milkcan loop again? I just noticed that while playing today. I'm going to add it to my strategy.

Also, dudes mentioned using zip ties to prevent airballs from getting stuck behind the seance planchette and the milkcan. Any tips on placement?

Will try it that way - thanks.

Just had my first game that I feel pretty good about.

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Yeah, that's a pretty good one.

I'm thinking my new strategy is playing Elephant mode like it's the second level of Milkcan mode.

I honestly don't have that problem. I think I'm at 6.5ish degrees. Can't recall the flipper strength right off hand. Nails it every time with a direct shot. Don't even give it a second thought - maybe the stage design changed in some way, or it's slightly different.

With default flipper power and 6.5 pitch, stage rejects are a bit less in my experience also.

Plays much better using Rdoyle1978 suggestions.

Loving this game so much! Got to Master Magician for the first time. There was a hilarious amount of text on the screen telling me what I was supposed to do. Think I got a cramp from having my arms crossed for so long. So fun!

The AC is not on the same circuit, that is a 220v load.

I have solar electric on my house and on sunny day the voltage is almost 10 volts higher than at night when I am drawing power. The original power supply is wonky with voltage variation. The PS upgrade is regulated and constant. I have nearly 600 games with hardly a miss. the power supply also has a pot screw which allows you to tweak the 48V up of down a bit. I think I am at 49.8V

holy crap that was fast! They've been improving Master magician, but still a ways to go... I think the text is a placeholder, but I always take it like a joke as in "how am I supposed to read all that?!"

One last thing I want to check is the number of extra balls I’m being awarded. I think I got like 3 extra balls on ball one. Too many! Lol

I like the humor in the game... magicians hat shout outs to Spooky, JJP, and Stern.

I'm not an electrician, but I think the pin could be on 1/2 the 220v line. If I'm not mistaken, the 220 coming into the house is bi-phase (or two phase), meaning two 110V lines out of phase 180 degrees. Think of it as a 220V center tapped transformer, with the center tap grounded. So each output would be 110V and out of phase with each other. 1/2 of the house runs on one 110V, the other 1/2 house is on the other phase. The big loads (like the AC or stove) then uses both lines for 220V. If that's the case, then his pin power supply could be affected.

Maybe if there's any electricians out there, they can chime in.

I am an electrician and your description is completely right, but a circuit is considered a wire run back to the main panel and on a single breaker. It is highly unlikely that 110 loads share the same circuits as 220 loads. They are however on the same house service. If the service feeder wires are long or undersized or if you have large intermittent loads you are likely to see voltage drop during heavy loads (like the AC running).

I see the opposite effect with my solar array, during the day I have little or no load and my array is producing power causing my voltage to rise, while at night I have lighting loads and no production and can measure my house voltage as much as 10 volts less. This affected my pinball play. The regulated power supply is a good solution.

Ah..OK. I see what you were after. I read it as "separate 110v and 220v lines, so the 110 isn't affected by the 220."

I was assuming the lines ran back to the breaker panel (loads not shared), and that the mains coming into the house would droop some under load.

This is what happens when electrical engineers and electricians try to converse. . Almost the same language, but not quite. LOL

Your solar array would make an interesting read in another post (if you haven't posted about it already).

You can earn up to 9 extra balls. Settings allow you to set the limit lower, and make it harder to earn them. IF you reach MM mode, you lose any extra balls you have pending.