On man from beyond I just go straight for that left magic target from the catapult feed to skip the stage bashing.

I have been wondering if there is an end sequence for this, or if it just continues indefinitely till you lose one of the two balls? Seems like if you hit the shot where ue is hiding, he just moves again.

Correct, it continues until you are down to one ball.

Installed the latest beta - great updates! Had a couple of weird pauses but Nothing that kept a game from continuing. Great changes!

This is a great strategy if you can reliably hit that target but I can't and usually end up with a drain or at least a save from a drain when I miss it. I do get some lucky shots to the magic targets from the slings / magnets (in Seance) but can't reliably hit either one.

Would someone please post a video of the EOS switch installation? I don't want to solder the wires to the wrong place! Thanks.

http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/End-Of-Stroke-Switch.pdf

I have the PDF. Video would be really helpful.

Ok ... I have yet to do mine so apologies can't help ya....maybe someone else can!

Video won't show any more. One brown/blue wire plugs into the 3rd spot on the connector. Black wire solders onto the black wires on the switch in the picture.

I don't have a game to show you. But it can't be much simpler than that. Only two wires to solder.

End of stroke leaf blade switch gets mounted like the attached picture. Easy to see which side of bracket it mounts on and where long blade is so pawl pushes it closed.

LTG : )

bec75d06029c6b21c231a4adc61a5606985a93d1 (resized).jpg

Appreciate it. I'm more confused about the OTHER ends of the wires.

Yeah, it’s the ground wires that are soldered in. The second one is difficult to discern. PDF is too small for my eyes too. Why two separate locations to attach the ground wires anyway? I’ve been more of a 90s and earlier collector until I purchased Houdini. Is there something going on with the ground that requires specificity or is it just the reach of the supplied wires? Coincidentally, I’m installing mine tonight.

Do I need the EOS installed if mine does not have it? What does it help?

Nothing high tech here. Black wire ( ground ) to black wire ( ground ).

The wires reach to a spot American Pinball thought would be easiest for their customers.

LTG : )

From rosh in an earlier post :

EOS only come into play on flipper knockdowns, where it will refire the 'main power' on the flipper to raise it back up. I do not have them installed on either my machine in the office or at home and have never had an issue, but some have. If you find it happens, then get the kit, easy to install. Those who think it makes the flippers snappier or other such things are suffering from a placebo effect. The kit has the switches with wires attached and the molex pin already on the wire that needs it. https://store.american-pinball.com/products/houdini-end-of-stroke-switch

LTG : )

Mine plays great without the EOS switches.

I understand that some have noted a flipper giving way when balls are stacked during a multi-ball or a weak hit in similar circumstances. Happened to me last night. The flipper gave up the ghost momentarily and dumped three balls down the drain. It’s really weird. I’m hoping this will help. It’s very intermittent with me. We’ll see what it does. If it helps, hooray.

Cool. Thanks. Easy peasy.

Thanks!!

Yeah, it's just that WHERE to solder the wires isn't crystal clear in the pictures. Maybe someone who's done this can snap some better pics?

I’ll try when I do it tonight.

Nope, you need the power supply upgrade to fix they

Sorry I don't have a game to help you.

LTG : )

I didn't buy the "official" kit, just the parts and there were no real instructions available when I did mine so I just picked another switch that was on the same board and close by to solder the respective ground wires to.

The black or common wires (whatever color you end up with for common) from the EOS go to the black wire on the inlane or the outlane switches.
Left for left, right for right.

The other wires should have a crimp connector on them and stick into their empty place on the connector on the boards

Look at the inlane switches, there is a black wire on them. solder your EOS switch wires to that one.

If the outlane switches are easier to reach, solder your wires to the black wire on those.

The black wires from all the switches, all go to the same place, they are all connected. So any of the connection places I mentioned will work perfectly. This is why its called common.

Sadly, that’s been in for months. Something else is afoot.

No kidding? I’ll have to pay more attention on mine- I haven’t noticed since installed mine. Let us know if the EOS works!

Will do. It’s really odd. If it works, the only downside will be the loss of an excuse for lousy scores.

Quick confirming dumbo question regarding the Houdini EOS switches. The switches are normally open, correct? If that’s the case, do you just go into the switch test menu and hit the appropriate flipper to see if unused 14 and unused 58 close when the flipper is engaged. Just want to be sure I don’t blow up anything on my shiny, almost new, Houdini. The concept of a normally open EOS switch is new territory for me. I think I get the idea that it’s there to supply more power should it open, but I just want to be sure.

Yes. That's the way to test it.

EDIT:Go to test mode and manually move the flipper all the way up, which will close the gap on the switch.

If you manually knock down a flipper while the button is pressed, it stays down until you release the button and press it again.

Take the glass off, start a game hold down a flipper button and try it. Knock down the flipper with a firm knock. It will stay down.

EOS switches notify the computer that the flipper us down and it pushes it back up, instead of you unpressing and repressing the flipper button during a game.

It has nothing to do with flipper power at all.

Lower your flipper power in the settings if you get a lot of collapses.

A collapse once in awhile is normal and the EOS switches make it barely noticable.

I think we are saying the same thing. Once the flipper is energized, push it down, mimicking a collapse, and it will open the EOS switch and it will re-energize or push it back up.

So, when flipper is off/not energized, the EOS is open. When the flipper is on/engaged, the EOS closes.

Right?

Won’t that close the switch? If not, the switch is normally closed. I think I’m confusing myself.

BTW, thanks everyone for helping out

EDIT: Maybe I have it backwards - Houdini EOS actually might be normally open and the flipper closes the switch. I'll verify tomorrow.

Can someone provide me the actual Beta Code. Or do WE know when the official Release comes out?

Email Josh (or PM rosh here, I guess) for a link to the beta.

Those who watched our absolutely riveting seminar at TPF know the answer to this question. Also, if you really know your Houdini Trivia, you can probably guess at when it will be.

Release is to coincide with what Houdini claimed to be his birthday (April 6th).

I’m picking up a Houdini on Friday, perfect timing!

The new factory floor looks very clean and shiny.
Can't wait to see it messy with people, parts and pinball!
Good luck in the move.

Not at American Pinball. Look at the current factory. Spotless.

LTG : )

Yes it is so clean and colorful, it reminds me of one of those lego building stores in the mall, or a build-a-bear workshop.

Just wondered if Barry was away or uncontactable at the moment , have emailed twice over the last week about a current service ticket and have not received a reply ?
Thanks.

If I am correct I thought he was at a show this past week so it might just be as simple as him being a little behind on work.

May want to post your issue here and someone might be able to help ya!

He's decompressing after TPF.

arnold terminating a joint.gif

Thanks , the solution is a power supply, apparently AP are trying to find an economical solution for the Australian and EU customers.
Houdini is an awesome game but really falls over when both multi balls , magnets and catapult are all going off at the same time , the flippers just feel like soft bananas and inconsistent catapult even on its own.
Have fitted eos as well.

Barry sadly wasn't there.

Maybe the industry show in Las Vegas ?

LTG : )

Just checked with Barry, your emails were in his junk folder. You should hear from him shortly.

Make sure you are in contact with your distributor, I believe a solution will be available shortly if not already.

Yes. The upgraded power supply makes the game way more snappy when under load.

In fact an even bigger one that what is offered might be a good idea.

It's all about usable power in the game.

The upgrade is a little like "buck/boost" in that it adapts to conditions in the game.