(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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#7001 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did this jump off the rails?

Looks like. I don't think you should have pushed back. Just lift up a little, pull forward, and then lift up and lean back.

I would grab the playfield, lift up, and hopefully get it back on the rails along the inside of the cabinet.

LTG : )

#7002 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Looks like. I don't think you should have pushed back. Just lift up a little, pull forward, and then lift up and lean back.
I would grab the playfield, lift up, and hopefully get it back on the rails along the inside of the cabinet.
LTG : )

Jesus.... Does this shit happen ever? I didn't even push that hard.

#7003 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

It feels like it's locked in, won't budge much.

You might try and lean it back forward too.

LTG : )

#7004 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Does this shit happen ever?

Yes. You weren't the first, and won't be the last.

Quoted from wesman:

I didn't even push that hard.

No idea why you pushed ?

LTG : )

#7005 1 year ago

See the knob the red arrow is pointing to ? It should be resting or sliding along the bar below the green line.

LTG : )

c7145646398b732dfddaa36ecfea52964e3b2640 (resized).jpg
#7006 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Looks like. I don't think you should have pushed back. Just lift up a little, pull forward, and then lift up and lean back.
I would grab the playfield, lift up, and hopefully get it back on the rails along the inside of the cabinet.
LTG : )

Man, this was a horrific nightmare. I got it back down and on.

It had come down hard initially. Should I be careful powering it on?

20181111_002429 (resized).jpg20181111_002634 (resized).jpg
#7007 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

See the knob the red arrow is pointing to ? It should be resting or sliding along the bar below the green line.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

I mean pushing upward, to try and lock it in, then it came down hard.

I have no idea how it jumped the rails. I figured it did, that didn't look healthy.

#7008 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Should I be careful powering it on?

I wouldn't worry. It bounced around in the back of a truck way worse than what ever you did.

You didn't fix the flipper. Had enough for today ? Or hoping some local collector will give you a little hands on help to get you started ?

LTG : )

#7009 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

I mean pushing upward, to try and lock it in, then it came down hard.

Just guessing, but in your pushing upward you may have slid it back more.

To do this. I would grab the apron in the area the balls drain. Lift up a foot or so, pull forward and let the yellow rails rest on the front of the cabinet. Then lift up and lean back, so those pegs stay on the rail they slide on.

LTG : )

#7010 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just guessing, but in your pushing upward you may have slid it back more.
To do this. I would grab the apron in the area the balls drain. Lift up a foot or so, pull forward and let the yellow rails rest on the front of the cabinet. Then lift up and lean back, so those pegs stay on the rail they slide on.
LTG : )

I tried watching several videos, and I have been for weeks. I know the art blade protectors were sticking on the one side, and I wonder if that created friction while I pushed.

Is it safe to power on?

#7011 1 year ago

Powered on. Seems okay. I don't think my heart is. It was jammed in, I had to pull from the pack, and lift underneath to pull forward. Was heavy as a mofo.

#7012 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just guessing, but in your pushing upward you may have slid it back more.
To do this. I would grab the apron in the area the balls drain. Lift up a foot or so, pull forward and let the yellow rails rest on the front of the cabinet. Then lift up and lean back, so those pegs stay on the rail they slide on.
LTG : )

I had lifted the way you wrote, and what I'd seen before. And even now as I tried to pull it all the way forward on the rails, and then when going upward, it seemed like when pushing back on the rails, it was about to collapse again. I know I had it forward on the rails, and then when walking it upward, it just collapsed on the power supply and off the rails, and I took things incredibly slowly, then BAM.

#7013 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

And even now as I tried to pull it all the way forward on the rails, and then when going upward, it seemed like when pushing back on the rails,

Grab onto those yellow rails hard and don't let it slide back. Go up, and lean on back box.

I'm thinking you are new to this. Please get a local pinhead to come over and assist you. A little hands on help can go a long way toards learning about your game and enjoying it more.

LTG : )

#7014 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Man, that guy's a pro! I really admire people who can do this sans any nerves.
Here's the sad little ikea branded wrench I have. [quoted image]

These are my favorite pinball wrenches because they're small, and have a regular and a racheted end:
amazon.com link »

Or you can get the cheaper set at Harbor Freight (but they will NOT last as long) for about $18 after the 25% off coupon they always have:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-sae-stubby-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-61401.html

#7015 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Grab onto those yellow rails hard and don't let it slide back. Go up, and lean on back box.
I'm thinking you are new to this. Please get a local pinhead to come over and assist you. A little hands on help can go a long way toards learning about your game and enjoying it more.
LTG : )

Yeah, I think I'm done with this experiment. I've tried to ease it out and up, and it feels like it's going to crash down again. So now I'm just trying to place it back it, and it's sticking rather than allowing the yellow bars to ease back in.

#7016 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

. And even now as I tried to pull it all the way forward on the rails,

When in position and the peg ( red arrow ) is sliding on the rail, it comes to a stop at the end where the rail hooks up ( yellow arrow )

When it stops there, then lift up and lean back.

I don't have a Houdini to check, but grab those yellow rails and hold tight. If the playfield is ass heavy, it may want to slide back. You are in charge. Don't let it.

LTG : )

c7145646398b732dfddaa36ecfea52964e3b2640 (resized).jpg
#7017 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yeah, I think I'm done with this experiment.

It's okay. You live in an area with a lot of pinheads. Hopefully some will come forward and help you.

Please, someone help this nice man.

LTG : )

#7018 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

It's okay. You live in an area with a lot of pinheads. Hopefully some will come forward and help you.
Please, someone help this nice man.
LTG : )

Thanks man. I'm just trying to get this back in, and the back of the playfield is finding friction, and the yellow bars can't settle back down.

#7019 1 year ago

It finally went back in. This was pretty upsetting. I guess I don't understand why there aren't locks above and behind, to entirely lock a playfield and allow it to roll smoothly, unless you want it to detach.

This has really freaked me out. I really watched several people's videos, and was incredibly cautious, but still.

Thank you for your kindness.

#7020 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

It finally went back in. This was pretty upsetting. I guess I don't understand why there aren't locks above and behind, to entirely lock a playfield and allow it to roll smoothly, unless you want it to detach.
This has really freaked me out. I really watched several people's videos, and was incredibly cautious, but still.
Thank you for your kindness.

It will be fine. Did this to my Houdini first month I had it. I pulled to hard, then slid back and it came off rails and slammed to bottom.
Lesson learned, go slow at low pitch when lowered, then slide table back in just above lock bar.

#7021 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

It will be fine. Did this to my Houdini first month I had it. I pulled to hard, then slid back and it came off rails and slammed to bottom.
Lesson learned, go slow at low pitch when lowered, then slide table back in just above lock bar.

It was exactly like what happened to you. I haven't been that freaked out, outside of car crashes, in awhile.

Crazy thing is, I did go slow. I've seen everyone in videos go even faster than the speed it did. I don't know if I just lifted up, and the friction of the art blade protectors locked it in. As soon as I started pushing towards and up, they were bunching up. I know you said you have searched art blades, but I don't know if these protectors do anything except obstruct the playfield movement.

#7022 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

It was exactly like what happened to you. I haven't been that freaked out, outside of car crashes, in awhile.
Crazy thing is, I did go slow. I've seen everyone in videos go even faster than the speed it did. I don't know if I just lifted up, and the friction of the art blade protectors locked it in. As soon as I started pushing towards and up, they were bunching up. I know you said you have searched art blades, but I don't know if these protectors do anything except obstruct the playfield movement.

When you grab the apron and lift, you have keep the playfield straight and level.

Grab the apron from the center, where the ball drain. It won't bend.
This will keep it balanced a bit.

If you pull to the left or right, the blade protectors will bunch up.

You only have 1/8" sideways clearance, so you have to have everything straight.

As you have seen it can come off the rails.

If it goes crooked, lower, and straighten the entire playfield, yes it actually moves sideways a little. It's not locked in or on rollers or anything like that.

Then lift again, pull towards you.

Its heavy, dont pull at an angle.
Dont tip it left or right.

Lift it up so that the yellow metal rails will clear the front edge.

Pull it out forwards past the front of the game and set it down on the yellow rails.

Pull it out very straight inline with the cabinet.

The yellow rails have feet bent into them that fit into the silver metal channel along the front edge.

Do this and post a picture.

If you need I or someone can post a video for you.

Games are really strong, you didnt break it.

#7023 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

When you grab the apron and lift, you have keep the playfield straight and level.
If you pull to the left or right, the blade protectors will bunch up.
You only have 1/8" sideways clearance, so you have to have everything straight.
As you have seen it can come off the rails.
If it goes crooked, lower, and straighten the entire playfield, yes it actually moves sideways a little. It's not locked in or on rollers or anything like that.
Then lift again, pull towards you.
Its heavy, dont pull at an angle.
Dont tip it left or right.
Lift it up so that the yellow metal rails will clear the front edge.
Pull it out forwards past the front of the game and set it down on the yellow rails.
Pull it out very straight inline with the cabinet.
The yellow rails have feet bent into them that fit into the silver metal channel along the front edge.
Do this and post a picture.

I think that was the issue. The left protector was tight, and jammed, so I had to force it more than I'd imagine without the protectors on. The left plastic inset and maybe another piece, make that a tight fit on the left side.

When I then pulled forward, it got stuck, and wedged in. That was nightmare part one. Then when I got it freed, I felt I was home free, minus possible protection on the sides. Then I raised it, and it clunked down. So I imagine interference with the protector helped jam and shift things.

I guess I just don't understand why there aren't locks above, below, and behind the rails, to keep them in, akin to a rollercoaster.

I can try again tomorrow, and post. Trying to coax it back in and up, and then hitting some interference, and not being able to slide it back down, the yellow rails, freaked me out again.

I've been cautious in this process, and not rushed it, and yet still somehow it went fubar. This being my first owned game, it's pretty alarming. But u guess that's life.

I'll see if I can get on tomorrow when people like yourself see around, before dipping my toes in again. Everything seems functional, same as before, but this damn left flipper is still flipping me off, which isn't really acceptable for me. It entirely hinders gameplay and "easy" successful shots on the right side of the field. I wonder if there's a mechanical defect involved.

Thanks again to everyone that read or replied. This was a genuinely pretty horrific experience, after years of playing, and then finally jumping into a dream, after never fahtoming I'd own one.

#7024 1 year ago

There are a lot of things on a pinball machine that are marginal.

Just having the playfield resting on thin wooden rails is one of them.

To work on the the flippers you dont have to lean the whole playfield back to the backbox.

Pull it forward and set it on the yellow service rails. It's what they are for.

If you go crooked you can actually reach the back of the playfield while holding the front and straighten it.

Its heavy but one can do it if necessary.

Most of us have dropped a playfield inside the cabinet one time or another or even dropped it from the leaned back position.

Sh#t happens.

Still the game survived.

They are strong.

Your flipper is probably just loose.

Use a 6" ratchet wrench handle with a 3/8" socket to adjust flippers.

Make sure it can move up and down a little after adjustment. 1/32" is plenty or the thickness of s credit card.

Digital levels are available at all hardware stores, ace, menards, Lowe's, home depot etc.

#7025 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

What location are people installing there New Knocker kit? I know the usual spot, but has anyone mixed it up?; ALA, Addams family or something else creative? Or up in the head, old school?
Lastly, who has installed one yet and how did it go?

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

#7026 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

I hope you ordered many fuses. This won't be the last time that blows.

#7027 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

I usually order fuse assortments from Amazon. Screws too.

#7028 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

Bummer. Did the folks at American offer thoughts as to why the fuse blew? Sounds like you hooked up the Brown and Black wires for the knocker to the "wall nuts" 3 & 4, which makes sense given the instruction that "your game may have more than 2 Black/Brown Wires," but the knocker didn't work, correct? Then it sounds like you worked with it a bit in an effort to remedy the situation and it blew a fuse? Just curious what you attempted since I am about to receive a power supply and have the knocker ready to install. This is making me want to install the knocker now with the original power supply and confirm that it works. I figure that way, should the transition to the new power supply lead to a blown fuse, I'll know it has to do with power supply hook up rather than the knocker. I find that fuses rarely just blow for the heck of it, so I suspect something is up. Any additional info you have from American or a further description of what you did after the knocker was DOA would really be appreciated. Thanks for posting this.

#7029 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

Bummer. Did the folks at American offer thoughts as to why the fuse blew? Sounds like you hooked up the Brown and Black wires for the knocker to the "wall nuts" 3 & 4, which makes sense given the instruction that "your game may have more than 2 Black/Brown Wires," but the knocker didn't work, correct? Then it sounds like you worked with it a bit in an effort to remedy the situation and it blew a fuse? Just curious what you attempted since I am about to receive a power supply and have the knocker ready to install. This is making me want to install the knocker now with the original power supply and confirm that it works. I figure that way, should the transition to the new power supply lead to a blown fuse, I'll know it has to do with power supply hook up rather than the knocker. I find that fuses rarely just blow for the heck of it, so I suspect something is up. Any additional info you have from American or a further description of what you did after the knocker was DOA would really be appreciated. Thanks for posting this.

Yes I connected the wires to the wall nuts of the new power supply. I suspect that I blew the fuse when I was trying to contort myself to reach the power supply to take a voltage measurement and I heard one of the solenoids fire. Although I can't be sure. I've verified that the knocker works by applying voltage directly to the knocker. I havn't contacted American about it yet because I'm not sure if I conducted the knocker test (in the test menu) correctly. I'd like to get another fuse and try the test again before making the conclusion that there is something wrong with the add on board or the programming.

#7030 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Yes I connected the wires to the wall nuts of the new power supply. I suspect that I blew the fuse when I was trying to contort myself to reach the power supply to take a voltage measurement and I heard one of the solenoids fire. Although I can't be sure. I've verified that the knocker works by applying voltage directly to the knocker. I havn't contacted American about it yet because I'm not sure if I conducted the knocker test (in the test menu) correctly. I'd like to get another fuse and try the test again before making the conclusion that there is something wrong with the add on board or the programming.

Thanks. Well, I’m going to hook up the knocker and NOS switches tonight. The PS is due Wednesday, and I also stocked up on fuses, so I’m all set. I’ll post my results after the PS goes in.

#7031 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Now you are making me miss my TZ...

One of my all time favorite bands. Unfortunately one band I never got to see play live.

#7032 1 year ago
Quoted from CUJO:

One of my all time favorite bands. Unfortunately one band I never got to see play live.

2 concerts coming up!

https://www.songkick.com/artists/193473-golden-earring

#7033 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Well, I tried to install mine. I didn't put it any place creative, just what the instructions suggested. I have the additional power supply, so I connected the power to the add on board through new connections from the power supply (Brown to Brown - Black to Black). Then I hooked up everything else according to the instructions. Powered it up and set the knocker setting to mechanical and went into test mode. No activity. Tested voltage to the add on board and got 48v. Not sure what I did wrong. But in the process of fiddling with it, I blew a fuse at F101 which is on the driver for half of the solenoids. Now I have to order a new fuse, wait for shipping and in the mean time, my game no work. So to answer your question, it didn't go well.

So, I hooked up my knocker. Checked voltage and double checked that I plugged everything where it’s supposed to be plugged in. Then set knocker to mechanical and tested in CABINET - Dead as a door nail.

#7034 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

So, I hooked up my knocker. Checked voltage and double checked that I plugged everything where it’s supposed to be plugged in. Then set knocker to mechanical and tested in CABINET - Dead as a door nail.

Yikes... everyone step back.
I believe the knocker to be independent of the new power supply. It's late and I'm giving up tonight however I'm determined to get this knocker working tomorrow.

#7035 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Yikes... everyone step back.
I believe the knocker to be independent of the new power supply. It's late and I'm giving up tonight however I'm determined to get this knocker working tomorrow.

First - thanks for giving this some thought. Just to be clear, I have the original PS, not the upgrade. The upgrade is in the mail.
I note that I’m reading 54v off the 48v source (I tested it at the plug end of the added knocker line that goes to VIN 2.
Also, and perhaps this might be part of the problem, the instructions say to put the machine in to “test >adjustments >standard.” under “tests,” I couldn’t find anything like that. I ended up in settings, and then was able to find an adjustment that switched the knocker to “mechanical.” Maybe I’m not in the right place to actually activate it???
I tried to test it in the cabinet icon, to no avail, and I held in the interlock switch when testing. Other coils all tested fine.

#7036 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

I tried to test it in the cabinet icon, to no avail, and I held in the interlock switch when testing. Other coils all tested fine.

You should be able to pull the interlock so it stays on hands-free when the coin door is open.

#7037 1 year ago

For all those who ordered the Knocker Kit. The installation guide is now available on our web site.

http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf

Follow the link or double click on the image.

Knocker Installation.pdf

The initial kits did not include the 4 Amp Slow Blow 5X20 mm Fuse.
Email me at barry@americanpinball.com and I will send you one.

Thanks

#7038 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

For all those who ordered the Knocker Kit. The installation guide is now available on our web site.
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf
Follow the link or double click on the image.
[quoted image]
The initial kits did not include the 4 Amp Slow Blow 5X20 mm Fuse.
Email me at barry@americanpinball.com and I will send you one.
Thanks

Ha! The addition of the last step to the new instructions - basically "add fuse" - kind of explains the dead knocker.

On an unrelated issue - eager for the firmware update - had an awesome game, managed to crest 5 million points and avoided going into Master Magician, only to have it reset mid-ball. But I did happily and finally get to play the mode [can't remember what it's called] where one plays all the movie modes at once. Have no idea how I started it. Also got caught in a random multi-ball that seemed more like a glitch. Best of all was an awesome run of Man From Beyond.

What a great game and, in my humble opinion, one of the better pinball games ever produced.

Thanks Barry

#7039 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

For all those who ordered the Knocker Kit. The installation guide is now available on our web site.
http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-11/Knocker-Installation.pdf
Follow the link or double click on the image.
[quoted image]
The initial kits did not include the 4 Amp Slow Blow 5X20 mm Fuse.
Email me at barry@americanpinball.com and I will send you one.
Thanks

BarryJ: Thought of another knocker question - With the upgrade power supply, will the brown and black wires associated with the knocker install [see step 6 of the knocker install instructions] be attached to the Wall Nuts of the power supply upgrade as are the other brown and black wires from that same connector [describe in the PS install as "connector #6]? Seems correct, but just checking.

Thanks again

#7040 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

Ha! The addition of the last step to the new instructions - basically "add fuse" - kind of explains the dead knocker.
On an unrelated issue - eager for the firmware update - had an awesome game, managed to crest 5 million points and avoided going into Master Magician, only to have it reset mid-ball. But I did happily and finally get to play the mode [can't remember what it's called] where one plays all the movie modes at once. Have no idea how I started it. Also got caught in a random multi-ball that seemed more like a glitch. Best of all was an awesome run of Man From Beyond.
What a great game and, in my humble opinion, one of the better pinball games ever produced.
Thanks Barry

Yes, that's why it isn't working.. My mistake, sorry about that.

#7041 1 year ago

Glad to hear that is the problem. I'm glad it wasn't something wrong with the add on board.

Quoted from BarryJ:

Yes, that's why it isn't working.. My mistake, sorry about that.

#7042 1 year ago

Has anyone tried to mod the new power supply with quieter fans (ala stern PS fan mod)? Looks like there are two fans. They aren't as loud as the stern fan, but it would be nice if they were a little quieter.

#7043 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

Yes, that's why it isn't working.. My mistake, sorry about that.

Is it wrong I want to install knocker in the Head upper Left side, similar to Bally/Williams Wpc era?
Is there a reason AP put it in lower cabinet?
Barry, do you feel this would hurt the Back glass or perhaps any other head damage?

#7044 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Is it wrong I want to install knocker in the Head upper Left side, similar to Bally/Williams Wpc era?
Is there a reason AP put it in lower cabinet?
Barry, do you feel this would hurt the Back glass or perhaps any other head damage?

You can do anything you want Eric, we just put it in the main cabinet because of ease.

#7045 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Has anyone tried to mod the new power supply with quieter fans (ala stern PS fan mod)? Looks like there are two fans. They aren't as loud as the stern fan, but it would be nice if they were a little quieter.

I would be very careful with modding those fans as you will void the 2 year Mean Well warranty and our 90 Day warranty.

#7046 1 year ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

You can do anything you want Eric, we just put it in the main cabinet because of ease.

Another quick one Barry.
Will Oktoberfest come with a Knocker?

#7047 1 year ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Has anyone tried to mod the new power supply with quieter fans (ala stern PS fan mod)? Looks like there are two fans. They aren't as loud as the stern fan, but it would be nice if they were a little quieter.

With the front cabinet door shut, it can still be heard? Figured being enclosed would hush them up quite a bit, not like Stern's whiney PS fans that vent directly outside.

#7048 1 year ago
Quoted from zahner:

Ha! The addition of the last step to the new instructions - basically "add fuse" - kind of explains the dead knocker.
On an unrelated issue - eager for the firmware update - had an awesome game, managed to crest 5 million points and avoided going into Master Magician, only to have it reset mid-ball. But I did happily and finally get to play the mode [can't remember what it's called] where one plays all the movie modes at once. Have no idea how I started it. Also got caught in a random multi-ball that seemed more like a glitch. Best of all was an awesome run of Man From Beyond.
What a great game and, in my humble opinion, one of the better pinball games ever produced.
Thanks Barry

Movie Binge!

FWIW, don't forget TAF has a knocker in the cabinet, so there's no "Correct" spot

#7049 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Will Oktoberfest come with a Knocker?

Or a pair of knockers? (.)(.)

#7050 1 year ago

Guys,

Anyone have pics of this installed? Trying to find direction. I know if goes under the black rail but where?

Thanks.

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