(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 42 minutes ago by jguzik420
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There are 12188 posts in this topic. You are on page 128 of 244.
#6351 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I had a Houdini and sold it. I miss it this thread is the most consistently bumped to the top, reminds me of the good old times. Really well done machine for sure.

How long did you own it? It couldn't have been more than a couple of hours! lol

#6352 2 years ago

I also forgot to mention - I am pleased to report that the issues with the flippers getting knocked down when the magnets/coils fire is GONE. I had Trunk Multiball stacked with Seance multiball several times, and magnets firing like crazy. No issues. I have had the flippers knocked down loads of times before this install. Not sure if the EOS switches are still needed, but it sure doesn't seem like it to me.

#6353 2 years ago

Houdini arrives in the Netherlands... 3 Amigos unboxing pics ....great exposure for American Pinball!

#6354 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

No, it looks like the new power supply is supplemental

original power supply is still used for 5v and 12v

#6355 2 years ago

holy crap, I gotta get me a power supply when they are back in stock. I'm in the crowd now of catapult used to work 100%, now missing most of the time. Also tired of the flipper drop. I feel like this should be given out free of charge... the game was broke as shipped.

#6356 2 years ago

ah back in stock
Thanks for the review.

#6357 2 years ago

Slightly longer than that....

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

How long did you own it? It couldn't have been more than a couple of hours! lol

#6358 2 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Slightly longer than that....

Just giving you a hard time. Play a nicely set up one, it is great!

#6359 2 years ago

Power supply upgrade installed !

The instructions are very good anyone with a modicum of experience will have zero problems.

3 things:

1) The nut for the plastic cover is 1/2" a hollow 1/2" nut driver works well for this.

2) Install ground wire. The instructions dont specify a particular location but any ground location will work.

I chose to attach the ground wire to the AC cord receptacle just behind the unit on the rear wall of the cabinet.
The cabinet ground braid clearly runs under and through it.

Just loosen one of the 1/4"hex screws in one of the corners and put the ground wire under it and tighten.

3) You need a #1 flat blade or small screwdriver to loosen the terminal screws on the existing power supply board.

You need to cut off the really nice terminals from the brown and black wires and strip them back at least 1/2" to 5/8".

Dont strip it too short. It wont go deep enough into the special wall nut provided.

You need diagonals or a small wire cutter.

My game had 2 brown and 3 black wires. One of the black wires was a pair crimped together.

Installed on my game, the power supply rides the corner brace in the cabinet.
So its installed at a slight angle.

This is good though as it will get more air flow.

You can move the toroid supply board to the left a bit if you want if you want, but its not necessary.

I used a screw gun to mount the power supply to the cabinet with the included wood screws.

All in all taking my time it took about 20 mins.

It's a little cramped working in the lower cabinet behind the playfield but there is just barely enough room to get the job done.

I worked primarily from the left side.

#6360 2 years ago

After installation you shouldn't have to readjust too many things.

I raised my lower catapult 1 notch.
Operated it 20 times and its 100%.

It was 100% before, but was on a variac.

Holding and activating the flippers has no effect on the catapult. Its perfect.

I lowered the scoop 1 notch.

The game is incredibly stable now.

Unaffected by wall power.

You might want to raise flipper power 1 notch each.

Flipper fade is completely gone!

The flippers seem to have endless power now, no matter what is going on in the game.

The spongy feel of the flippers is gone!

You still need the EOS switches to tell the computer that a flipper is getting knocked down but that can be done easily.

Barry says there should be a kit for EOS switches available.

The flippers seem more effective now, more controlled and crisp feeling.

You might want to tighten/shorten the flipper return springs a couple loops to make them retract faster.
I did this to my game.

All in all I'm going to say that all power issues are corrected and the game plays better than before.

I'm very happy with this upgrade.

I had installed a variac prior to this, it solved high power spikes but it did nothing when my power sagged below 115v.

This new supply auto adjusts the power in the game now so it is unaffected by the brown outs I always have.

#6361 2 years ago

I took delivery of my Houdini today. Just finished setting up and pleased to say everything seems to be running great. Not single adjustment to any coils needed. First time in my life I think I've been appreciative of 230V, normally it's something I'm trying to work around (like importing 110V appliances). Even a had quite a decent first game which I wasn't really expecting as I felt my way through the game. Looking forward to quite a few more games tonight!
IMG_2617 (resized).jpg

#6362 2 years ago

Second game ever and first game on my machine. Plays nicely just have to figure things out!

E0B01BD1-5309-4F59-9227-9A662CF4AC0C (resized).jpeg
#6363 2 years ago
Quoted from Audioenslaved:

Second game ever and first game on my machine. Plays nicely just have to figure things out!
[quoted image]

What's that, about 1,400,000 US?

#6364 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

What's that, about 1,400,000 US?

Bahaaaaaa that’s awesome! But yeah give or take a little bit ;P

#6365 2 years ago

Glad to see a couple more Aussie games out of the box

#6366 2 years ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

Glad to see a couple more Aussie games out of the box

Yeah finally got mine home and out of the box today

#6367 2 years ago

Tight shots like everyone says but manageable

#6368 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Power supply upgrade installed !
The instructions are very good anyone with a modicum of experience will have zero problems.
3 things:
1) The nut for the plastic cover is 1/2" a hollow 1/2" nut driver works well for this.
2) Install ground wire. The instructions dont specify a particular location but any ground location will work.
I chose to attach the ground wire to the AC cord receptacle just behind the unit on the rear wall of the cabinet.
The cabinet ground braid clearly runs under and through it.
Just loosen one of the 1/4"hex screws in one of the corners and put the ground wire under it and tighten.
3) You need a #1 flat blade or small screwdriver to loosen the terminal screws on the existing power supply board.
You need to cut off the really nice terminals from the brown and black wires and strip them back at least 1/2" to 5/8".
Dont strip it too short. It wont go deep enough into the special wall nut provided.
You need diagonals or a small wire cutter.
My game had 2 brown and 3 black wires. One of the black wires was a pair crimped together.
Installed on my game, the power supply rides the corner brace in the cabinet.
So its installed at a slight angle.
This is good though as it will get more air flow.
You can move the toroid supply board to the left a bit if you want if you want, but its not necessary.
I used a screw gun to mount the power supply to the cabinet with the included wood screws.
All in all taking my time it took about 20 mins.
It's a little cramped working in the lower cabinet behind the playfield but there is just barely enough room to get the job done.
I worked primarily from the left side.

My power supply mounted even next to the transformer. I used the ground on the service outlet box. I worked from the right side. I did lift the playfield higher with some supports after pulling it more forward. Took me 30 minutes. I agree with all the other comments from pinballinreno! Played a few games with zero issues. Trunk shots were 100% in. The lower catapult is at 28. The upper vuk is now at 10. I never had the flippers drop.

#6369 2 years ago

What are you folks going to use your 150 credit for? I'm thinking shaker and Houdini work shirt. Spare plastics set is a practical choice.

#6370 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

What are you folks going to use your 150 credit for? I'm thinking shaker and Houdini work shirt. Spare plastics set is a practical choice.

You will love the shaker. I may get the knocker and a backglass. I have shaker, side art and magic glass.

#6371 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

You will love the shaker. I may get the knocker and a backglass. I have shaker, side art and magic glass.

That translite is gorgeous. Need to build a lightbox to display it.

#6372 2 years ago

When installing my power supply upgrade I found this part/piece in the rear right corner of the game, just sitting there:

20181005_194245 (resized).jpg20181005_194311 (resized).jpg

It looks like a stack of staples, but it's a brushed stainless clip of some kind.

Any ideas barryj ? rosh ?

It looks like a retaining clip for something plastic?

#6373 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

What are you folks going to use your 150 credit for? I'm thinking shaker and Houdini work shirt. Spare plastics set is a practical choice.

I like the work shirt as well.....I'd like to see knocker back in stock and I'd like to see a replacement trunk available...and this mentioned EOS kit that has been mentioned....

#6374 2 years ago

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

#6375 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

I have and have always had my pins on in rooms where an upgraded pf glass has never mattered. It has always seemed to me to be easier (and cheaper) to turn off a light or even unscrew a bulb vs buying a premium pf glass.....

#6376 2 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

I have and have always had my pins on in rooms where an upgraded pf glass has never mattered. It has always seemed to me to be easier (and cheaper) to turn off a light or even unscrew a bulb vs buying a premium pf glass.....

Not what I asked, but I appreciate the comment!

#6377 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

When installing my power supply upgrade I found this part/piece in the rear right corner of the game, just sitting there:
[quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like a stack of staples, but it's a brushed stainless clip of some kind.
Any ideas barryj ? rosh ?

its a strapping crimp for packing.

#6378 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

I don't know about Inv Glass, but Magic Glass is amazing. I got it as part of a package deal w/my Houdini, along with art blades and a shaker. The difference is absolutely apparent, not one of those 'judgemental' things. But if I didn't have any mods, I'd also go for a shaker or side art too. To each his own, I guess. Plus you can always stick it on another pin if you want.

I think I've said this twice before in this thread but I'll repeat again - we bought a demo game. Spouse was playing at the Indiana Expo, I literally reached down to touch the PF, thinking "they don't have glass installed", only to discover it was Magic Glass. No kidding, it's that good.

#6379 2 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I don't know about Inv Glass, but Magic Glass is amazing. I got it as part of a package deal w/my Houdini, along with art blades and a shaker. The difference is absolutely apparent, not one of those 'judgemental' things. But if I didn't have any mods, I'd also go for a shaker on side art too. To each his own, I guess. Plus you can always stick on another pin if you want.

All of my games (I guess except twilight Zone) now have this type of glass. I have 2 JJP games with Invisiglass and 2 WPC games with the Stern glass. The Invisiglass is noticeably better, which is why I asked. I do not have any PDI Roman glass. But it is pretty great to have no glare from the playfield lights.

#6380 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

All of my games (I guess except twilight Zone) now have this type of glass. I have 2 JJP games with Invisiglass and 2 WPC games with the Stern glass. The Invisiglass is noticeably better, which is why I asked. I do not have any PDI Roman glass. But it is pretty great to have no glare from the playfield lights.

Just guessing, but I assume most vendors just buy the coating, it's not something they make in house. Granted, there could be multiple vendors tho that would account for the differences. Absolutely no qualms about Magic Glass, in my limited experience. Heck, if you don't see it, it must be good!

#6381 2 years ago
Quoted from oldskool1969:

its a strapping crimp for packing.

Thanks! That's what it looks like.
Now, how did it get inside my game?

#6382 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thanks! That's what it looks like.
Now, how did it get inside my game?

No, it's actually one of the protectors that slide onto the optos mounted on the small ball trough for the right scoop.

#6383 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

What are you folks going to use your 150 credit for? I'm thinking shaker and Houdini work shirt. Spare plastics set is a practical choice.

I'm planning on using it for the shaker and knocker kits when I get around to buying the power supply.

#6384 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

I haven't seen the A.P. magic glass in person but I have PDI, Invisiglass and one sheet of Stern's low-glare glass. The first two are noticeably better than Sterns but they are all still big improvements. I love the stuff but one negative side effect is that when I play on locations glare is very distracting to me and I think it hurts my scores considerably. I guess this would be the case anyway since my games are in a room with very controlled lighting but it is still something to consider.

#6385 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

No, it's actually one of the protectors that slide onto the optos mounted on the small ball trough for the right scoop.

I'll take a look. Good thing I didn't throw it out yet. It looked like s finished part.

Can you post a picture of the location?

#6387 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I think I’m going for the glass... how do you guys that have it think it compares to PDI/Invisiglass?

I have 5 Invisiglass and 1 Magic Glass. They are very similar. MG may be a touch better.

#6388 2 years ago

I have large fluorescent lights above some of my pins. I have the special glass under those lights. There is no glare now! I would get IG or MG for all but too expensive.

#6389 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

When installing my power supply upgrade I found this part/piece in the rear right corner of the game, just sitting there:
[quoted image][quoted image]
It looks like a stack of staples, but it's a brushed stainless clip of some kind.
Any ideas barryj ? rosh ?
It looks like a retaining clip for something plastic?

That’s a bracket to help keep an opto in place. Used in a few places, not at machine to look, but know it is used on wire form on right side

#6390 2 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

That’s a bracket to help keep an opto in place. Used in a few places, not at machine to look, but know it is used on wire form on right side

Thanks Josh! This makes more sense.

I found the opto missing its clip.
I just bent the clip more so that it fits snugly.

It was very loose fitting.

20181007_170319 (resized).jpg
#6391 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

No, it's actually one of the protectors that slide onto the optos mounted on the small ball trough for the right scoop.

Yes! Found it missing from the opto above the right wireform.

Thanks!

#6392 2 years ago

Just installed the new power supply. Went in easily even with these strange looking “wood” screws. No biggie, just surprised when I opened the small envelope.

149B6B36-15A3-440F-AD9E-84635CA4AD03 (resized).jpeg

#6393 2 years ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Just installed the new power supply. Went in easily even with these strange looking “wood” screws. No biggie, just surprised when I opened the small envelope.
[quoted image]

Oops.

#6394 2 years ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Just installed the new power supply. Went in easily even with these strange looking “wood” screws. No biggie, just surprised when I opened the small envelope.
[quoted image]

Those are the joke "would" screws, as in, "Would anyone really try to use these?"

#6395 2 years ago

Will the knocker kit be back in stock soon? I have $150 credit burning a whole in my pocket and want to pair it with a shaker

#6396 2 years ago

Does the credit work on small items? I thought it was just something towards the next game.

#6397 2 years ago

Does the credit work on small items? I thought it was just something towards the next

Included in the kit is a $150.00 coupon for merchandise at our online store that can be used for such things as Magic Glass, shaker motors and knockers, this credit can also be used against the purchase of a new machine including Oktoberfest

#6398 2 years ago

Heading to Marvins Marvelous Museum tonight. Will check out Houdini there.

#6399 2 years ago

Very nice! Cannot wait to get my power supply installed.

#6400 2 years ago

I plan on ordering the upgrade power supply, but I have been working on another issue I am hoping some folks can chime in on:

Direct shots to the stage usually bounce out. Some ricochet shots from the pops to the stage bounce out (not often, but sometimes).
I have adjusted the flipper strength down to where it feels good and can make all the shots. Same result for stage shots.
I go under the assumption that most direct shots to the stage should NOT bounce out.

I was going to try some deadening foam strips on the sides and back of the stage. My thought was that it will absorb some of the energy of the ball, perhaps enough to keep it in the stage.

Any thoughts on how I can make this shot more reliable?

Thanks.

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