(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread


By lllvjr

3 years ago



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There are 12143 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 243.
#5901 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

You need a multimeter and have to lift the playfield.
What are your flipper coil settings in the setup?

flippers 24 left, 23 right.

#5902 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Not sure how to test ouput. I plugged killawatt into the caninet power supply and checked it during game play. It hovered around 121.

Is this an accurate way to measure incoming power? as opposed to plugging meter into wall and game cord into it? Or plugging surge protector into wall and then adding meter to it and then plugging in game cord? If cabinet power supply works, that would be a good spot to use.

#5903 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Not sure how to test ouput. I plugged killawatt into the caninet power supply and checked it during game play. It hovered around 121.

Is this an accurate way to measure incoming power? as opposed to plugging meter into wall and game cord into it? Or plugging surge protector into wall and then adding meter to it and then plugging in game cord? If cabinet power supply works, that would be a good spot to use. I guess even if it has a loss, as long as it was a consistent loss, it would provide valuable info.

#5904 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

flippers 24 left, 23 right.

You should DEFINITELY be able to consistently make the ramp with those settings. The one on route here is 23/22 and it has no problems. If you have a multimeter, measure the power coming out of the switching power supply in the cabinet. Yours might be low.

#5905 2 years ago

Hi,
Cliffy is selling several protectors as a set. Are all needed?
Thanks

#5906 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Hi,
Cliffy is selling several protectors as a set. Are all needed?
Thanks

Sure, better safe than sorry !

#5907 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Flipper angles are factory, but not equal.

Flipper bat gauge is great.

Are they available ?

LTG : )

#5908 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Flipper bat gauge is great.
Are they available ?
LTG : )

Got mine with the Houdini.

#5909 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

.
I also side drilled the seance "C" target mounting bracket holes and moved it 1/8" to the left (this makes a world of difference and its twice as easy to make the inner loop now).
!

Have you tried a washer between wood and the bracket on the left screw to tilt the target towards the left side?
1/8" seems difficult to not screw in the same original hole.

#5910 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Is this an accurate way to measure incoming power? as opposed to plugging meter into wall and game cord into it? Or plugging surge protector into wall and then adding meter to it and then plugging in game cord? If cabinet power supply works, that would be a good spot to use.

I use a z-wave energy monitor, part of my Smarthings smarthome. The energy monitor is made by Aeon, around $20 if you can find a discontinued model. Here's a SnipIt, but of the entire house (in watts).

Home Depot has one ($35), but I have no experience w/it. Link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elexa-Dome-Z-Wave-On-Off-Plug-In-Switch-with-Energy-Monitoring-Z-Wave-Range-Extender-DMOF1/300499964?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CVF%7CD27E%7C27-2_WIRING_DEVICES%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000033102358%7c58700003867202208%7c92700031090651267&gclid=CjwKCAjw2_LcBRBYEiwA_XVBU2qj2FxsB9JP5qifBfe-5PyYlWXyvGlhZtgJEd9VkLXG8FfoNRF9exoCC7gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM6L6aHnvd0CFYfawAodZrYBzg

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#5911 2 years ago

Does the code still in progress or is it completed?
Do you play with the center post?

#5912 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I was getting very frustrated with my game.
I added the EOS switches, the variac and spread the forks on the autolaunch bracket (this to insure the ball is always centered in the lane when launched).
I also side drilled the seance "C" target mounting bracket holes and moved it 1/8" to the left (this makes a world of difference and its twice as easy to make the inner loop now).
I dropped the flippers 2mm (measured from the center of the tips). 1.5mm is also good and barely noticeable in the game, but harder to make the milkcan shot. These adjustments do not adversely affect catching or cradling the ball.
My game plays wonderfully.
Its tight and makes the shots consistantly (similar to AFM but not as brutal).
It's now playing as it should I think.
Consider my adjustments and you will see what i mean immediately.
I cannot believe how fun this game is when properly set up. Well done API.
I love this game!

I dropped my flippers also and moved the "C" target to left. Immediate improvement. I made the trunk lock shot 3 times in a row. Also was making milk can shot easier!

I took apart the lower catapult. It was not dirty. Put in a thicker washer. That made it worse. Will put in original washer.

#5913 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Have you tried a washer between wood and the bracket on the left screw to tilt the target towards the left side?
1/8" seems difficult to not screw in the same original hole.

Tilting should be OK with a washer. I had to drill the left hole on an angle. It was too close to the original.

#5914 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Does the code still in progress or is it completed?
Do you play with the center post?

Code is still in progress, but mostly complete. A few bugs here and there, and master magician mode reboots, but very playable and 95% of people wouldn't notice the bugs or get to the MM mode.

#5915 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I dropped my flippers also and moved the "C" target to left. Immediate improvement. I made the trunk lock shot 3 times in a row. Also was making milk can shot easier!
I took apart the lower catapult. It was not dirty. Put in a thicker washer. That made it worse. Will put in original washer.

Why to drop flipper?

#5916 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Why to drop flipper?

Wider sweet spot to hit the ball, making some shots easier.

#5917 2 years ago

I was cleaning and waxing my game last night and noticed that the left ramp protector is very loose.

It's that way by design as there is no screw holding it.

It moves over 1/16" in and out.
In closer examination, it absorbs inertia and makes it harder for the ball to go over the ramp.

It also adds to ball rattling since it's a spring target now.

I crimped the rounded edge much closer the the plastic ramp with a small 4" channel lock.

It's now firmly applied and doesn't move.

20180915_141258 (resized).jpg

#5918 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Have you tried a washer between wood and the bracket on the left screw to tilt the target towards the left side?
1/8" seems difficult to not screw in the same original hole.

I side cut the target's bracket holes with a dremel, so only the width of the holes were altered. The target fits perfectly. The right target was also slightly moved.
I did not bend the deflector at the end of the lane guide on the right as it should naturally drain a low inertia ball to the right inlane. If not, adjust as necessary.

I actually chained shots across the orbit, inner loop and ramp last night.
What a RUSH! lol.

My Houdini has flow now, real flow!

20180914_204011 (resized).jpg

#5919 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wider sweet spot to hit the ball, making some shots easier.

Exactly!

Small adjustment with a big payoff.

It's just not necessary to have the milkcan shot be impossible.

2mm drop was all it took.

#5920 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I took apart the lower catapult. It was not dirty. Put in a thicker washer. That made it worse. Will put in original washer.

The catapult adjustment is tricky.
It's like the adjustments are too course.

Go up 1 increment and it hits the back wall to the right.

Go down 1 increment and it hits the trunk face.

I only got it perfect by adjusting my variac .

What's needed here are more, finer incremental adjustments.

I cheated by adjusting game wall power to go in between the increments.

I know it's not the consumers job to solve the power issues, but, my game is amazing now that I can dial it in powerwise through coil settings and variac adfustments.

I have one on my WOZ and am really fine tuning it also.

Regulating the unregulated power is fun! (For me I guess...)

#5921 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Exactly!
Small adjustment with a big payoff.
It's just not necessary to have the milkcan shot be impossible.
2mm drop was all it took.

Would this make backhand shots harder?

#5922 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Would this make backhand shots harder?

It's a small enough change that I haven't seen any real changes other than milkcan and scoop shots are more consistent.

Unless your flipper power is way up you cant really backhand the ramp unless it's from a high speed rebound off of the flipper.

I installed EOS switches because the high speed rebounds on my game just collapsed the flipper dead.

#5923 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Code is still in progress, but mostly complete. A few bugs here and there, and master magician mode reboots, but very playable and 95% of people wouldn't notice the bugs or get to the MM mode.

Need a stage ball save If possible.
If the ball rejects and goes SDTM without hitting any switch (slings might be allowed).

It's a real negative for the novice players when they make a stage shot and it rejects and loses the ball.

Also ball save when starting stage modes. The trough save here is a real life saver. Maybe have it adjustable in the menu.

Also increase initial ball save time in the settings for the novices. It's a little short.

Just some thoughts about getting more fun out of a challenging game.

#5924 2 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Hope you can help me.

The coin door lights are 12v ....

#5925 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Tilting should be OK with a washer. I had to drill the left hole on an angle. It was too close to the original.

Side drilling the holes in the target bracket to make adjustable slots is the preferred method.

Yes it's too close to drill new holes in the playfield in most cases.

So dont still the playfield, widen the holes in the target bracket instead.

As always be careful when making adjustments. Go slow and use proper tools.

Be safe.

Added over 2 years ago:

Do not drill the playfield

#5926 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I side cut the hole with a dremel, so only the width of the holes were altered. The target fits perfectly. The right target was also slightly moved.
I did not bend the deflector at the end of the lane guide on the right as it should naturally drain a low inertia ball to the right inlane. If not, adjust as necessary.
I actually chained shots across the orbit, inner loop and ramp last night.
What a RUSH! lol.
My Houdini has flow now, real flow!
[quoted image]

Did you drill the metal bracket holes wider, of the wood playfield holes wider? Bracket hole widening seems less risky.

#5927 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Did you drill the metal bracket holes wider, of the wood playfield holes wider? Bracket hole widening seems less risky.

Only the metal bracket. Do not drill the wooden playfield its risky and totally not necessary.

Took less than 5 mins.

#5928 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Side drilling the holes in the target bracket to make adjustable slots is the preferred method.
Yes it's too close to drill new holes in the playfield in most cases.
So dont still the playfield, widen the holes in the target bracket instead.
As always be careful when making adjustments. Go slow and use proper tools.
Be safe.

Too late. Drilled the wood.

#5929 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Too late. Drilled the wood.

Lol, seems like you did a good job anyways

#5930 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wider sweet spot to hit the ball, making some shots easier.

And other more difficult...and also the control of the ball with flipper. Too much dropped flipper makes way harder to control ball
I used to align the flipper with the inlane decor. Not sure it is still the best with games that you can control coil flipper power. Just a question of feeling.

#5932 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

And other more difficult...and also the control of the ball with flipper. Too much dropped flipper makes way harder to control ball
I used to align the flipper with the inlane decor. Not sure it is still the best with games that you can control coil flipper power. Just a question of feeling.

1-2mm doesn't change ball control that much, but it does make many shots easier, especially on the edges.

#5933 2 years ago
Quoted from vireland:

1-2mm doesn't change ball control that much, but it does make many shots easier, especially on the edges.

It depends how it is factory set. I used to raise them a very little. So if it is about to drop from factory setting, difference is bigger. But as you said, edge shots are tough on this game so I would not raise flippers from factory settings.

Concerning the protector set from cliffy, I just would like to know if the catapult protectors were really needed (how it can damage the playfield?) and the same about the shooter lane. Thanks

#5934 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

It depends how it is factory set. I used to raise them a very little. So if it is about to drop from factory setting, difference is bigger. But as you said, edge shots are tough on this game so I would not raise flippers from factory settings.
Concerning the protector set from cliffy, I just would like to know if the catapult protectors were really needed (how it can damage the playfield?) and the same about the shooter lane. Thanks

I personally think the catapult protectors are overkill, but the shooter lane and seance hole protectors are definitely necessary.

If they won't include them in the factory models (which they should given people already have damaged playfields at the seance hole), American Pinball should at least OFFER them pre-installed from the factory along with the other "extras" like magic glass, shaker motor, art blades, knocker, etc that they already do.

#5935 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

And other more difficult...and also the control of the ball with flipper. Too much dropped flipper makes way harder to control ball

Exactly.
I tested many angles and arrived at a 1.5 to 2mm drop.

Catching and cradling the ball is a big part of houdini.

2mm does not alter the feel of the game but does indeed make both the milk can and scoop shots more accessible. Not easy by any means, just not impossible.

It didnt seem right to me to see videos with people timing out modes because of the impossible shots.

Lowering the flippers slightly makes the impossible, "possible".

I find myself now trying and accomplishing milk can shots regularly now.

The game just keeps getting better and better.

#5936 2 years ago

Maybe adding big capacitors can help Houdini power as it did for Alien:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-pinball-official-game-thread/page/464#post-4591616

Alien users have to fend for themselves. Seems Houdini users like to fend for themselves. The ultimate tinkerers game.

#5937 2 years ago

I figured out that the table has a physical 3-balls lock on the left side as well as under the playfield. Is that being used in the code? Not that I am aware of. Would be great if these will be used in a future code update.

There could be a wizard mode where you have to lock balls in all of the physical locks (left side. upper catapult, scoop as well as the stage). Once you succeed all balls will be fired back at you at once and you start a multiball. Something like that...

I also saw that the stage can function as a captive ball. Same question here… is it being used?

#5938 2 years ago

All this talk of drilling the “c” target bracket got me thinking about the catapult misses. Mine throw range varies from center of trunk (perfect) to 2 inches left of trunk at same landing height. I am wondering if it is possible to shift the trunk left a few inches left by side drilling it’s bracket or replacing it with an extended bracket. That would allow catapult to work within it’s tolerances and better position the trunk. Anybody know if that is feasible or even possible without screwing up subway hole access?

#5939 2 years ago
Quoted from tatapolus:

I figured out that the table has a physical 3-balls lock on the left side as well as under the playfield. Is that being used in the code? Not that I am aware of. Would be great if these will be used in a future code update.
There could be a wizard mode where you have to lock balls in all of the physical locks (left side. upper catapult, scoop as well as the stage). Once you succeed all balls will be fired back at you at once and you start a multiball. Something like that...
I also saw that the stage can function as a captive ball. Same question here… is it being used?

I asked the same things. Josh posted an explanation of the stage captive ball, noting that he wanted yo do more cool things with it but couldnt because of a late design change to the stage saucer. It is only seen in a couple stage modes like milkcan escape, where it rises up beneath your real ball. A setting allows you to enable the real ball to roll off the captive ball and come down to your flippers. I think it is called "stage eject" on setting menu. The playfield lock below the ramp is only used to hold one or two balls at most. It is not s major freature of the game, and only raises the trunk jackpot totals when you lock a ball there.

#5940 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

All this talk of drilling the “c” target bracket got me thinking about the catapult misses. Mine throw range varies from center of trunk (perfect) to 2 inches left of trunk at same landing height. I am wondering if it is possible to shift the trunk left a few inches left by side drilling it’s bracket or replacing it with an extended bracket. That would allow catapult to work within it’s tolerances and better position the trunk. Anybody know if that is feasible or even possible without screwing up subway hole access?

Some thoughts on catapult adjustments:

Tiny adjustments yield big results.

The catapult mech, as well as everything on the game, is installed as always by non-pinball people. They are assembly line workers doing the best they can within their limited scope.

They install mechs without the ability to test and see them in action. Once installed it's difficult to reinstall for adjustment.

Adjustment always comes in the form of altering the mounting holes of the various mechs.

The catapult mech can be moved, rotated, shimmied or whatever you need for adjustment.

Glass off, start a game.

Take the ball in hand and drop it into the catapult.

It will fire.
Notice what it does and where the ball goes. Check that the catapult arm is not binding mechanically or rubbing on the wooden playfield.

Adjust the coil settings so that the ball appears to have enough trajectory to enter the trunk regardless of where it goes.

The catapult mech mounting holes can be elongated as needed to turn it and move it into alignment with the trunk.

The ball is generally thrown at a slight angle to the trunk, moving from front left to rear right if its properly set.

There is plenty of room in the wooden playfield cut-out for adjustment.

If your ball is going left, adjust the catapult to throw more to the right.

Elongate the mech mounting holes as needed. I use a dremel with a 1/8" carbide cutter. Its quick and easy. You can also side cut with a drill bit inserted through the hole, it takes a lot longer but yields similar results.

Power:

As of right now Houdini relies on unregulated power to manage the coils. Pretty much all pinball machines work this way from all manufacturers.

If your power is stable the game will be the same, day after day without deviation from its settings.

If your power from the wall is subject to change, your game will change in unpredictable ways and need adjustments all the time.

Such is my case.

Adding a variac to regulate and gain control of my wall power has been a great experience.

My games that have regulated power never change and never need further adjustments.

It's not just Houdini, many games benefit from power regulation.

So if unregulated power is throwing off your settings in a game, try adding the variac.

With all of this in mind you should be able to adjust your catapult to work perfectly.

#5941 2 years ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Saturday will be the big test for this game (as well as my other 9 games). I have invited over 50 people from work over for a party. So far no major issues with the game. So I am expecting it to work well for the party. It will be the first time it will be on and played for 8 hours or so.

Houdini was on from 3 - 10pm (longest yet) with 9 other pinball machines with no issues. The catapult hit every time that I was watching. I asked everyone and no one said it missed.

My basement has three 20 AMP dedicated circuits, each connected to just one outlet. I divide my games between these 3 outlets.

In the photo, though Houdini is at back side, note all my wall art....
IMG_3330 (resized).jpgIMG_3331 (resized).jpg

#5942 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Some thoughts on catapult adgustments ...
With all of this in mind you should be able to adjust your catapult to work perfectly.

Until next session.

-1
#5943 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Until next session.

Since adding the variac my Houdini is incredibly rock solid and the catapult is 100% it never misses.

It's the same 24/7 day after day like clockwork.

My scoop is predictable and never shoots SDTM any more. The settings are holding perfectly.

#5944 2 years ago

Sounds like the variac is the key. My catapult will be nothing but perfect one session and then totally off the next day. I can usually tune it in, one way or another, by adjusting the coil strength though.

#5945 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Mine throw range varies from center of trunk (perfect) to 2 inches left of trunk at same landing height.

A 1.5 to 2 volt change in wall voltage will do exactly that.

I would adjust so that it throws to the right a little more.

Then it would go from far right to center as conditions change.

#5946 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Sounds like the variac is the key. My catapult will be nothing but perfect one session and then totally off the next day. I can usually tune it in, one way or another, by adjusting the coil strength though.

I found 1000w 10 amp variacs for $55 free shipping.

Spend more and get the 2000w ones if you want to plug in 2 games.

I set it to 118v. 117v wasn't as easy to adjust to, some coil settings were off.

The coil adjustments could be in finer increments, it would help a lot.

#5947 2 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Is this an accurate way to measure incoming power

Get the little wall plug voltmeter off Amazon and just plug it into any outlet on the same breaker.

Hopefully you can see it while playing a game or at least without looking under a game.

#5949 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Can someone please show or describe where to apply a mutimeter to test switching power output on the game?

It should be labeled. Stay away from the 110AC. Look for Ground, +5, +12, check ground to each + or - DC voltage.

LTG : )

#5950 2 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Can someone please show or describe where to apply a mutimeter to test switching power output on the game?

LTG : )

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