(Topic ID: 183206)

American Pinball Houdini thread

By lllvjr

7 years ago


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#5851 5 years ago

Bummer that some are having these odd issues. I have #98 and mine has been rock solid since day one. No soft flippers, catapult works fine, VUK and scoop works fine and no wear at the scoop yet. The only issue I've had is that the upper catapult switch contact got sheared off when I pulled out the playfield.

#5852 5 years ago
Quoted from Wmsfan-GAP:

OK- 117 pages is a lot to sift through. I'll look.

Quoted from rosh:

Personally I never experience flippers getting knocked down, I think part of it is tied to style of play. The 'hold boost' option in the settings is the only way in software to adjust for it.
Adding EOS switches can help in the rare instances where knock downs occur. Since I don't think anyone has posted it, off the record (e.g. unofficial info), I have added support for them in software. You would need to install them and then wire them up to the appropriate switch board. On the switch board, the left EOS is located between left outlane switch and catapult switch, right EOS is between right outlane and right inlane. The manual should have wire colors so you can spot those, and there obviously will be an empty spot. You also need the common from that switch chain as well. These are the smaller .1 molex plugs. No diodes. They will show up in switch test as unused 14 and unused 58.

Come to expo and find out

well, you last checked in code at 2:29AM, so that is 6 hours ago, so . . . .

ok post #5744

#5853 5 years ago
Quoted from konjurer:

Bummer that some are having these odd issues. I have #98 and mine has been rock solid since day one. No soft flippers, catapult works fine, VUK and scoop works fine and no wear at the scoop yet. The only issue I've had is that the upper catapult switch contact got sheared off when I pulled out the playfield.

Only issue for me is when multiple machines are being played at once. Play just Houdini, everything has been rock solid.

#5854 5 years ago
Quoted from Parzival:

Only issue for me is when multiple machines are being played at once. Play just Houdini, everything has been rock solid.

Yes, my game has been fantastic !
The only problems I also had were wall power related and the Variac has solved that.

#5855 5 years ago
Quoted from BarryJ:

The left / right movement on the catapult arm doesn't effect the throw.. What effects the throw is a dirty fulcrum. Take it apart and clean it, your catapult problem will be gone. Here is the link http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/CATAPULT-THROW-ERROR.pdf
I will look into other issues you are experiencing.

BarryJ Should we clean the parts with alcohol or?

#5856 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

barryj Should we clean the parts with alcohol or?

I would think any cleaner that doesnt leave a sticky/oily film to attract black dust.

#5857 5 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Did you have an how to or pictures? I have some EOS switches in my storage

I believe Barry is going to put together a document or possibly a kit on doing this. I have not looked under the playfield to confirm, but based on the manual and the code . . .

You need .1 size molex pins and the EOS switches . . .

For right EOS
Board 3, Bank B, between Violet/Brown and Violet/Orange.
Hook other lead to black wire on right Inlane switch

For left EOS
Board 0, Bank B, between Brown/green and Brown/Violet
Hooked other lead to black wire on leftInlane switch

following wires from the inlane switches should lead you to the correct board

Not sure the status of power supply stuff, if you are having power issues, be sure to contact Barry by opening a support ticket on the website.

#5858 5 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

I believe Barry is going to put together a document or possibly a kit on doing this

That would be way cool!

Simple bolt up solution, no soldering needed with IDC quick-splices to the common/ground.

#5859 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

That would be way cool!
Simple bolt up solution, no soldering needed with IDC quick-splices to the common/ground.

Yes! Offer a kit please, I want to plug and play if possible. Otherwise soldering would be ok if the switch were prebuilt.

#5860 5 years ago

When the game is over and that stats for your game pops up...is there a way to keep the stat screen displayed longer?

#5861 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Autolaunch.

I like the autolaunch to feed to the pops.

If its set too strong the ball rattles around in the shooter lane a tiny bit off the rubbers, and drains in the right outlane.
If set too weak it hits the escape targets and mostly goes SDTM.

The erratic autolaunch can be fixed.

The plunger is held in place by a "U" shaped bracket.

If you spread open the bracket until the ball or shooter is as centered as can be, and, spread it out until you have about 1/32" of good loose clearance.

It will now be consistant.
20180913_195357 (resized).jpg20180913_195357 (resized).jpg

It will still be a tiny bit sloppy but it works fine.

Tighten it to where you feel it's very good.

#5862 5 years ago

I have #99...

#5863 5 years ago

So leveled the pin corretly and followed Barrys advice for cleaning the catapult.
It worked for 3 shots and then it goes a little further to the right from shot to shot.
Is the Switch maybe not adjusted corretly? Or can I also do other things to get it work correctly.

#5864 5 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

Is the Switch maybe not adjusted corretly? Or can I also do other things to get it work correctly.

In short we all need a separate power board for catapult. Until this happens we are chasing our tales on this lower catapult.

#5865 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

In short we all need a separate power board for catapult. Until this happens we are chasing our tales on this lower catapult.

This was not the answer I wanted to hear *Fingers crossed there comes a solution*

#5866 5 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

This was not the answer I wanted to hear *Fingers crossed there comes a solution*

Sorry. I just reached 6 months with my machine. Ive been threw ( see the pun) this in detail. A second more expensive option is a different power driver board, or all new transformer design.

#5867 5 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

When the game is over and that stats for your game pops up...is there a way to keep the stat screen displayed longer?

you can use the flippers to return back to that screen

#5868 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

In short we all need a separate power board for catapult. Until this happens we are chasing our tales on this lower catapult.

Yep - mine is .... erratic. Works fine one day and then off the next under seemingly same conditions. I haven't monitored my wall voltage.

#5869 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

barryj Should we clean the parts with alcohol or?

You can. I just wipe the rod and hole and reassemble. I have also used a light coating of 3 n 1 oil as well as applied pinball wax to the pivot point. I have noticed no significant advantage in the short run in adding lubricant. I am sure in the long run it will be a detriment.

#5870 5 years ago

On the Houdini Flyer they mention a "upper & lower 3 ball staging/lock mechanisms". What exactly is this? Is that the fact the game keeps balls in different positions like the scoop, the upper catapult and on the left side of the playfield (don't know what it is called)?

I really like the fact that the game has so many balls ready in different positions to surprise you from time to time. In the latest code there is a function to eject the ball from the stage (it is disable by default). So that seems to be another possible locking position.

I got my machine yesterday and love it so far. It looks amazing and the rules are fantastic.

ONLY thing I would like to see to improve is maybe the lightshow: There could be more effects for example when you start Seance multiball or when you get an extra ball. It could also be a bit more like JJP with effects like candles/fire or a glowing dark blue effect for seance. So far it is all just standard colors. Do you think this will improve?

But I am really really happy with the game. Even the catapult is working great (so far). Just had two misses and maybe 40 hits.

#5871 5 years ago

I noticed a HUGE difference in coil strength the other night during my weekly league. For starters, this pin was on a circuit with other pins, as well as an AC unit. I had to move the popcorn machine to another circuit because the AC, 5 pins and it blew the circuit. Seems like a slight power issue, but I noticed something similar happening in AFMr on the same circuit.

Someone suggested a UPS with voltage regulator. I am going to try this and experiment. In reality, I think I need to move some devices to different circuits.

#5872 5 years ago
Quoted from tatapolus:

On the Houdini Flyer they mention a "upper & lower 3 ball staging/lock mechanisms". What exactly is this? Is that the fact the game keeps balls in different positions like the scoop, the upper catapult and on the left side of the playfield (don't know what it is called)?

Yes

Quoted from tatapolus:

ONLY thing I would like to see to improve is maybe the lightshow: There could be more effects for example when you start Seance multiball or when you get an extra ball. It could also be a bit more like JJP with effects like candles/fire or a glowing dark blue effect for seance. So far it is all just standard colors. Do you think this will improve?
But I am really really happy with the game. Even the catapult is working great (so far). Just had two misses and maybe 40 hits.

Agreed. The "Man from Beyond" mode makes REALLY good use of the lights, when the lighting turns off and back on when it's going all crazy. JJP games make phenomenal use of lights - and having to do some basic lighting for my band's stage show, it is HARD to do!

#5873 5 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Yep - mine is .... erratic. Works fine one day and then off the next under seemingly same conditions. I haven't monitored my wall voltage.

Get a little wall voltmeter that you can see from the game while playing it.

You will see that even a 1 volt change has an affect.

I'm on a variac now and I love it!

I set the power to 118v.
Then adjusted the catapult settings.

Too low and it fires low.
Too high, it's high and to the right.

I got it to where it bounces off the front lip but goes in

I pushed up the power to 118.5, only 1/2 a volt!

Now it goes in perfectly every time.

I tested it 30 times in a row, and PERFECTION!

So I absolutely know it's the power that affects it primarily.

A 1 or 2 volt change affects the catapult a lot.

#5874 5 years ago

I was getting very frustrated with my game.

I added the EOS switches, the variac and spread the forks on the autolaunch bracket (this to insure the ball is always centered in the lane when launched).

I also side drilled the seance "C" target mounting bracket holes and moved it 1/8" to the left (this makes a world of difference and its twice as easy to make the inner loop now).

I dropped the flippers 2mm (measured from the center of the tips). 1.5mm is also good and barely noticeable in the game, but harder to make the milkcan shot. These adjustments do not adversely affect catching or cradling the ball.

My game plays wonderfully.
Its tight and makes the shots consistantly (similar to AFM but not as brutal).

It's now playing as it should I think.

Consider my adjustments and you will see what i mean immediately.

I cannot believe how fun this game is when properly set up. Well done API.

I love this game!

#5875 5 years ago
Quoted from PersonX99:

I noticed a HUGE difference in coil strength the other night during my weekly league. For starters, this pin was on a circuit with other pins, as well as an AC unit. I had to move the popcorn machine to another circuit because the AC, 5 pins and it blew the circuit. Seems like a slight power issue, but I noticed something similar happening in AFMr on the same circuit.
Someone suggested a UPS with voltage regulator. I am going to try this and experiment. In reality, I think I need to move some devices to different circuits.

Get a 2000w 10 amp variac.
It works amazing.

13
#5876 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get a 2000w 10 amp variac.
It works amazing.

Pinballinreno- For several months Ive appreciated your posts, tech ideas, trouble shooting, fixes and just in general damn good info!!!
Sadly I cannot hold my tongue any more.
Ive had over 75 pinball machines. Check my history, its all real. There is also probably 5 or 6 Ive missed.
I have never, ever had to buy a variac to make a machine work.
You and I have made many posts.
I do feel at a certain point or posts go ignored by AP.
Ive spoken with both Barry and Josh in the past months regarding this power issue.
I love my game, not selling it. I feel American Pinball and the entire team have created a great game and company. Several companys have come and gone these past 8 years. JJP is the only one left to survive. AP has done everything right and there business model was very well done.....But, and a Big But.
1- Make a daughter board to fix the bad transformer.
2- If game 2 has this same design, I may very well may never buy it.
3-This design flaw has to be fixed!
4- I personally would not ship another game to this power issue is fixed.
5-No customer should have to buy any supporting power source to make a NIB work.
Thank you American pinball for all your excellent customer service, and it is much better than Stern.
However the time has come to fix the most important issue for NIB there is.

#5877 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Pinballinreno- For several months Ive appreciated your posts, tech ideas, trouble shooting, fixes and just in general damn good info!!!
Sadly I cannot hold my tongue any more.
Ive had over 75 pinball machines. Check my history, its all real. There is also probably 5 or 6 Ive missed.
I have never, ever had to buy a variac to make a machine work.
You and I have made many posts.
I do feel at a certain point or posts go ignored by AP.
Ive spoken with both Barry and Josh in the past months regarding this power issue.
I love my game, not selling it. I feel American Pinball and the entire team have created a great game and company. Several companys have come and gone these past 8 years. JJP is the only one left to survive. AP has done everything right and there business model was very well done.....But, and a Big But.
1- Make a daughter board to fix the bad transformer.
2- If game 2 has this same design, I may very well may never buy it.
3-This design flaw has to be fixed!
4- I personally would not ship another game to this power issue is fixed.
5-No customer should have to buy any supporting power source to make a NIB work.
Thank you American pinball for all your excellent customer service, and it is much better than Stern.
However the time has come to fix the most important issue for NIB there is.

Probably why no other game has a solenoid powered catapult launching a ball that far and with a target as small as the trunk. Not to mention it ruins the game if the ball doesn't land in the trunk EVERY time. The current mech as designed relies heavily on unregulated AC voltage. Add to that the variances from machine to machine and this problem becomes extremely complex.

Maybe there is a clever software solution they are working on instead? Maybe there could be a way to modify the mech so that it relies less on voltage (spring loaded assist?). Maybe the trunk opening could be tilted or adjusted to make it easier for the ball to make it inside? In any case it's going to cost them big $$ if they admit it's defective and add or replace parts under warranty so I don't see that happening.

#5878 5 years ago

again, if you are having power issues, and not everyone does, please be sure to open a service ticket via the website. I can assure you we are not ignoring this issue.

#5879 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I have never, ever had to buy a variac to make a machine work.
You and I have made many posts.
I do feel at a certain point or posts go ignored by AP.
Ive spoken with both Barry and Josh in the past months regarding this power issue.
I love my game, not selling it. I feel American Pinball and the entire team have created a great game and company. Several companys have come and gone these past 8 years. JJP is the only one left to survive. AP has done everything right and there business model was very well done.....But, and a Big But.
1- Make a daughter board to fix the bad transformer.
2- If game 2 has this same design, I may very well may never buy it.
3-This design flaw has to be fixed!
4- I personally would not ship another game to this power issue is fixed.
5-No customer should have to buy any supporting power source to make a NIB work.
Thank you American pinball for all your excellent customer service, and it is much better than Stern.
However the time has come to fix the most important issue for NIB there is.

Well said!!!

I have this issue from time to time as well....very frustrating..

I spoke with Joe Balcer about this at the Vancouver Flipout expo

Quoted from rosh:

again, if you are having power issues, and not everyone does, please be sure to open a service ticket via the website. I can assure you we are not ignoring this issue.

Looks like I will have to open up a ticket

#5880 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Pinballinreno- For several months Ive appreciated your posts, tech ideas, trouble shooting, fixes and just in general damn good info!!!
Sadly I cannot hold my tongue any more.
Ive had over 75 pinball machines. Check my history, its all real. There is also probably 5 or 6 Ive missed.
I have never, ever had to buy a variac to make a machine work.
You and I have made many posts.
I do feel at a certain point or posts go ignored by AP.
Ive spoken with both Barry and Josh in the past months regarding this power issue.
I love my game, not selling it. I feel American Pinball and the entire team have created a great game and company. Several companys have come and gone these past 8 years. JJP is the only one left to survive. AP has done everything right and there business model was very well done.....But, and a Big But.
1- Make a daughter board to fix the bad transformer.
2- If game 2 has this same design, I may very well may never buy it.
3-This design flaw has to be fixed!
4- I personally would not ship another game to this power issue is fixed.
5-No customer should have to buy any supporting power source to make a NIB work.
Thank you American pinball for all your excellent customer service, and it is much better than Stern.
However the time has come to fix the most important issue for NIB there is.

Thank you so much for your kind words.

I also feel your frustration. But, I took a deep breath and decided to look more deeply into the issues and personally fix them.
I know its not my responsibility as a consumer, but I'm capable and have the parts, tools and expertise to do it.

I know that API was in a hurry to get this game out the door fast and still hurrying to bolster production.
Time is money.

I agree that more testing should have been done and problems solved before sending the games out.

Oh well it is what it is. But I truly love the game, the code and the concept of it all.

Now how to adjust and get everything as good as it can be is where we are at now.

JJP had some terrible issues with electronics (light boards) and for the most part fixed everything to the best of their ability.
No one is immune from failure or success, we just keep moving forward.

Its how they handle things as they come up that makes a great company.

Josh and Barry of API have been generous and truthful with their time and ideas. I couldnt be happier with their support.

I also from experience know how very hard and nearly impossible it is to start up a company and deliver exciting new goods and services. You have to learn as you go sometimes, and if its worth it, the public can be fairly forgiving. Done right, you will be successful.

API has been stellar!

I'm confident that there is a fix in the works, I know of at least one beta tester who is testing it now.
I have submitted a ticket for the fix that is coming but, I like a challenge!

I enjoy fixing electronics and mechanicals, its my business and my recreation or hobby.

I dont mind that the fix is a way off, I know its coming. Meanwhile I want to play my game, so I fix it as best as I can in the meantime.

#5881 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Pinballinreno- For several months Ive appreciated your posts, tech ideas, trouble shooting, fixes and just in general damn good info!!!
Sadly I cannot hold my tongue any more.
Ive had over 75 pinball machines. Check my history, its all real. There is also probably 5 or 6 Ive missed.
I have never, ever had to buy a variac to make a machine work.
You and I have made many posts.
I do feel at a certain point or posts go ignored by AP.
Ive spoken with both Barry and Josh in the past months regarding this power issue.
I love my game, not selling it. I feel American Pinball and the entire team have created a great game and company. Several companys have come and gone these past 8 years. JJP is the only one left to survive. AP has done everything right and there business model was very well done.....But, and a Big But.
1- Make a daughter board to fix the bad transformer.
2- If game 2 has this same design, I may very well may never buy it.
3-This design flaw has to be fixed!
4- I personally would not ship another game to this power issue is fixed.
5-No customer should have to buy any supporting power source to make a NIB work.
Thank you American pinball for all your excellent customer service, and it is much better than Stern.
However the time has come to fix the most important issue for NIB there is.

They’re not ignoring it, but not everyone has the issue. I have it a tiny bit but not enough to address with an expensive variac. And I know what to do about it: don’t run a full blast dehumidifier on the same outlet when trying to throw the catapult the guys have a lot going on right now, and AP is an awesome, but still small, company. You know these guys are here all the time, weekends even addressing things. And now there are about to be 2 games to deal with. Awesome time for pinball

(No I don’t work for AP, I just feel strongly about this as a small business owner- it takes guts to try new stuff)

#5882 5 years ago
Quoted from rosh:

again, if you are having power issues, and not everyone does, please be sure to open a service ticket via the website. I can assure you we are not ignoring this issue.

Sorry, I did say it and I don't think its appropriate to go back and edit my post.
Maybe what I should have said was not addressing the posts here in this thread on the power issue. Agreed, for those having this issue, open a ticket with Barry.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

API has been stellar!

I'm confident that there is a fix in the works, I know of at least one beta tester who is testing it now.
I have submitted a ticket but for the fix that is coming but, I like a challenge!

Josh, what maybe I should have asked is, how is the daughter board testing going and when will it be available?
You've been nothing but Kind and helpful and very nice to me these past 6 months.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

You know these guys are here all the time, weekends even addressing things. And now there are about to be 2 games to deal with. Awesome time for pinball

Agree 100%. I made a point to compliment both at beginning and end of my posts.

I know there not ignoring the issue. Josh and I talked at Cax about it.
I'm just hoping for a solution soon.
Once again, sorry to accuse them of ignoring the issue.
The best benefit of my post so far I see was creating the good dialogue above.
Once again API Great Customer service at work.

#5883 5 years ago

Power issues affect some games more than others, I imagine none are immune to it.

My power over the summer has gone from 113v to 124v in a single 8 hour time frame.

@pinballgoddess loves her WOZ but has fits of rage when my terrible power goes high or low.

The WOZ starts throwing balls off the slings and draining, The flippers hit the ball off the glass, the throne room shoots every singe ball SDTM, The VUK's start throwing balls off the wireforms. Or its so anemic the balls dont even go up the ramp.

The game can be out of control unless I go and adjust all the settings for awhile.

From my Houdini experience, and API's info I re-learned (remembered?) about Variacs.

I had only limited exposure to them from working with a foam core cutter back in the 70's.
They used a variac because the slightest change in voltage caused the foam to melt or drag and ruin the part.

My WOZ is now on a variac and the game is perfect.

So thank you Barry and API for fixing my WOZ !

#5884 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Josh, what maybe I should have asked is, how is the daughter board testing going and when will it be available?

I’ve not stayed closely in the loop on that given what else is on my plate these days. However, I believe they are assessing a few different things to find the right solution, and that they are getting close to a decision on which to go with.

#5885 5 years ago

Next Houdini project is to add a powered lower cabinet speaker and attach it to the sub out.

I have to remove the playfield to repair the damage I did to the left side art.

So its a great time to rip a hole in the bottom for a speaker.

rosh can you code some audio controls so that we can adjust sub presence or at least bass and treble?
Its a pain to get to the amp in the backbox unless I relocate it to the lower cabinet.

I really like the CGC subwoofer adjustment in the menu. It works for a regular bass speaker or a powered sub, and they dont even have an onboard amp.

-2
#5886 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Get a 2000w 10 amp variac.
It works amazing.

A 10 amp variac should be rated at 1000W. Mfg probably just inflated the rating. Can't get more than 15A out of a standard outlet anyway.

Houdini requires as much preflight and maintenance as an airplane. I could not tolerate this for a new machine.

#5887 5 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Sorry. I just reached 6 months with my machine. Ive been threw ( see the pun) this in detail. A second more expensive option is a different power driver board, or all new transformer design.

The API catapult cleaning procedure didnt work for me, sadly. It actually is missing the trunk more often now. My power reads between 121.0 and 121.8, so I don't think the juice supply is the problem either, in my case. The arm just wanders. Meanwhile, I cant make the ramp shot or any right-flipper backhands worth a damn.

#5888 5 years ago
Quoted from mcbPalisade:

A 10 amp variac should be rated at 1000W. Mfg probably just inflated the rating. Can't get more than 15A out of a standard outlet anyway.
Houdini requires as much preflight and maintenance as an airplane. I could not tolerate this for a new machine.

You don't even have a Houdini. Move on please. Nothing to see here.

Man-grinding-axe-vintage (resized).jpgMan-grinding-axe-vintage (resized).jpg
#5889 5 years ago

I only can backhand the scoop. But no ramp or Inlane...

Put a thicker washer to the catapult assembly. Then you have no movement. Had the same issue before cleaning. I clenead it and add a thicker washer.

Btw: can someone share a picture oft a "perfect" Flipper aligment for houdini?

#5890 5 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I only can backhand the scoop. But no ramp or Inlane...
Put a thicker washer to the catapult assembly. Then you have no movement. Had the same issue before cleaning. I clenead it and add a thicker washer.
Btw: can someone share a picture oft a "perfect" Flipper aligment for houdini?

This works best for me
About 1.5 yo 2mm droop below the hole.

20180906_194207 (resized).jpg20180906_194207 (resized).jpg20180906_194338 (resized).jpg20180906_194338 (resized).jpg20180906_194348 (resized).jpg20180906_194348 (resized).jpg

#5891 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

This works best for me
About 1.5 yo 2mm droop below the hole.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How does the flipper alignment template work for everybody? That seems like an awesome way to do a check

#5892 5 years ago
Quoted from mcbPalisade:

A 10 amp variac should be rated at 1000W. Mfg probably just inflated the rating. Can't get more than 15A out of a standard outlet anyway.
Houdini requires as much preflight and maintenance as an airplane. I could not tolerate this for a new machine.

And yet, we have zero catapult/flipper power problems with the one on route here. It's not an issue for everyone, or maybe even half. I'd bet it's like 30-40%, if that.

#5893 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

The API catapult cleaning procedure didnt work for me, sasly. It actually is missing the trunk more often now. My power reads between 121.0 and 121.8, so I don't think the juice supply is the problem either, in my case. The arm just wanders. Meanwhile, I cant make the ramp shot or any right-flipper backhands worth a damn.

What are your flipper power settings at? Have you tested the OUTPUT of the switching power supply? Maybe it's low.

#5894 5 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

How does the flipper alignment template work for everybody? That seems like an awesome way to do a check

I altered the flipper angle to a slightly lower angle.

The scoop and milkcan shot were too random on my game.

I needed yo get the ball a little further up the bat than on the curved part to make the shot.

But not so angled that you hit the slings all the time.

1.5mm drop is all it took to make the game shots more accessible.

#5895 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

The API catapult cleaning procedure didnt work for me, sasly. It actually is missing the trunk more often now. My power reads between 121.0 and 121.8, so I don't think the juice supply is the problem either, in my case. The arm just wanders. Meanwhile, I cant make the ramp shot or any right-flipper backhands worth a damn.

What is your playfield pitch at?

What power levels are your flippers set at?

It would be a good starting place for comparisons.

#5896 5 years ago

Here's an update to my stage curtain servo failing issue. Barry let me know that it is not field replaceable because it has to be programmed and apparently even a slight error in the programming will lead to a very quick death of the servo. This means the whole stage assembly has to be replaced, I was prepared for some serious sticker shock on what that was going to cost since I'm out of warranty but I was very pleasantly surprised by how they handled it. I installed the new stage last night (the number or wire ties I had to cut to achieve this was significant) which is pretty involved, ran the calibrations and fired up the game. Ball would not feed out to the shooter lane so I thought I had left something disconnected but didn't really think anything I had touched would affect that as it's on opposite ends of the PF. After some troubleshooting I determined the MOSFET or pre-driver on the PD-16 board is bad, seriously bummed I STILL wouldn't be able to play my game until I get a replacement MOSFET I decided to swap the two PD-16s. I changed the dip switch settings and did the swap and can at least play now. Thankfully the failed driver is now just affecting one of the spotlights. The front stage eject comes closer to working with the new assembly but still doesn't quite get there so I just disabled it again.

I'm still rather surprised that those motors aren't field replaceable, not an ideal situation at all but hopefully my failure is an anomaly. No idea what could have caused the MOSFET to fail other than "shit happens".

To those saying A.P. won't take care of you outside of warranty I will say that I wouldn't worry about it too much. Thanks to Barry and the team for helping me get back to flipping my game!

#5897 5 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I only can backhand the scoop. But no ramp or Inlane...
Put a thicker washer to the catapult assembly. Then you have no movement. Had the same issue before cleaning. I clenead it and add a thicker washer.
Btw: can someone share a picture oft a "perfect" Flipper aligment for houdini?

Any thicker washer I try causes too much tension on the arm. Once the clip is forced on the post, the arm is too tight to move.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

What is your playfield pitch at?
What power levels are your flippers set at?
It would be a good starting place for comparisons.

Pitch is 6. left flip is 24, right is 23. I can complete the ramp shot, just cant find it consistently. Flipper angles are factory, but not equal. Left is centered on the hole, right is a little lower. Would backhand shots to the right right side of the playfield be more achievable if I decrease right flipper angle--raise it above the hole?

20180915_112549 (resized).jpg20180915_112549 (resized).jpg20180915_114734 (resized).jpg20180915_114734 (resized).jpg
#5898 5 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

What are your flipper power settings at? Have you tested the OUTPUT of the switching power supply? Maybe it's low.

Not sure how to test ouput. I plugged killawatt into the caninet power supply and checked it during game play. It hovered around 121.

#5899 5 years ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Not sure how to test ouput. I plugged killawatt into the caninet power supply and checked it during game play. It hovered around 121.

You need a multimeter and have to lift the playfield.

What are your flipper coil settings in the setup?

#5900 5 years ago

Quick questions:

I want to change some of the GI-Bulbs. Which voltage does the GI use? 5V or 6,3V.
I have a lot of Comet 6,3V pinball bulbs - can I use them?

Also I want to change the LEDs of the Spotlights (Trunk, Stage) are they 12V?

Hope you can help me.

Thank you and best regards

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