I was looking at that.

http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-31-1108/

For the $20 it's a neat little programmer.

Anyone can duplicate pre-programmed end points off of an existing servo if it becomes an issue or make adjustments.

.

$50 for the programmer and the servo is not bad.

I agree not bad at all.
I'm tempted to buy it now just to fool around with it.

Good idea to wait for Barry. You can not just put any servo in the Stage. Even putting in the same exact servo, unless it is programmed correctly, it will likely not perform correctly and will likely not last long.

I was at the CLEPIN Show in Cleveland over the weekend, working my magic
Great little show, I recommend it to everyone!

There is no "over-volt" or "over-current" sensor on the stage.

We set up soft limits with a Servo programmer. The soft limits are before the actual hard mechanical limits.
With the new code you can actually go into the menu and set the soft limits in the game. We have not to this point (at least that I am aware of) tried this, but in theory you should be able to replace a bad servo and program the soft limits with out a servo programmer.

If I get a chance I will try this and report the findings.

Clarification.. We have used the Stage program mode within the game itself, but, the servos were already programmed with the Rev programmer.. In theory it shouldn't matter, but if the servo soft limit isn't set 100% correctly, the servo will die a fast and horrible death.

That is what we pay for them.

So much for getting the weekend off.
Glad you had fun.

Please do, it would be great if one could snap in a raw servo and use the game calibrate it!

Had the privilege to quickly tour the API factory today and play a table with Josh. Thanks for taking the time!

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Not to mention likely much cheaper.

Same thing happened to me. Josh is fixing the ball handling in next code release. I had 2.8m racked up.

Per Josh, they will build both in the new larger location they are moving into.

Just came across these "Back Stage GameBlades" offered by Tilt Graphics for Houdini:

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/houdini-steam-punk-gameblades

Attractive artwork and given the concerns regarding the durability of the artblade material offered by American Pinball, these look to be a nice option!

I like the backstage graphics. Since the theme brings you to a theater, the insider-theater API art makes logical sense, but so does the outside-theater/alley- way art. Steampunk doesn't seem to advance the core theme as much as the other options do, but corresponds to the cabinet well.

Is this cleaning to correct height of throws or left-right aim?

My game throws right if the voltage goes up.

When the power goes back down its fine.

URBEST Wall Flat US Plug AC 80-300V Voltage Panel Power Line Volt Test Monitor Gauge Meter AC 110V 220V Digital LCD Voltmeter for Household Plug into https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBQC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_O78VVyxiEr8xw

With this I can see what's going on.

I have a Kill-A-Watt that along w/voltage, also indicates watts/VA. Didn't buy it for Houdini, bought it for other reasons. You can buy at about any big box store.

Capture (resized).PNG

I can see the OktoberFest video mode now..
A gorgeous German Beer Maiden will pull an Iron Maiden out of a Beer Stein and say "Not Today...Not Today"... (head shaking back and forth).

Or one of the modes is collecting Beer Maidens, and the more beers you earn, the better they look.

Left and right wide throws. Up and down is coil setting

While playing yesterday, the ball went into the magic shop. While doing the hat video, a ball came out of the trough and then the ball came out of the side hole. I played two balls for a minute or so until one went into the side hole and adjusted itself back to one ball. I am on the latest code version.

Saturday will be the big test for this game (as well as my other 9 games). I have invited over 50 people from work over for a party. So far no major issues with the game. So I am expecting it to work well for the party. It will be the first time it will be on and played for 8 hours or so.

Just had 30 folks over Sunday.
As the day went on the game stopped making the trunk shots. Shots were short and to the left.
Trunk lid screw backed out and the lid stuck on rear wall.
Animations did not match audio call outs.
Hope your game does well for the party.

Blue Locktite the screw in, it's normal for new games to get loose parts and need tightening up after 100 or more plays.

Also I had the exact behavior during a low power session of 114v.

Trunk started throwing low and left. Software got all corrupt.

I rebooted and the code seemed to straighten out.
Trunk still thrown low and left.
Power was probably too low for the computer to work right.

Next day power at 121v trunk balls thrown high and to the right.
Software was rock solid.

Why is it that other games don’t have this weirdness? Can the power supply just be replaced/upgraded?

While the supply to the solenoid is unregulated, I assume it is aggravated by the distance the ball is thrown along w/the height of the trunk opening.

Houdini Code Error Alert: (latest code)
2 player game tonight, Myself and My Houdini Loving/Hating Girl...(depends if she's having a good game or not)..

Both our scores matched with last digit "6" offered up from the cymbal crashing monkey but only got one knocker sound, not two...

In other words, the game didn't reward us with double knockers... (no kidding. you can't make this stuff up)...

I wish I worked where you do! Hope the party goes well!

Which one of you AP guys plucked the short straw to head to Australia?

Hey guys,

so my Houdini works now on the latest Code.
Also the whole theater works fine.

Thanks to Barry and the AP-Team for Support us!!!

During the game, I was able to observe three phenomena:

1: Catapult shot
Coilsetting is 27 ball goes strong right next to the trunk.
Coilsetting is 26 ball goes right in front of the trunk

I put on new washers to the coil and the arm of the catapult so there is now no movement to left or right.
Any idea how to fix this? - Or can some share a picture of this lower catapult and how it is adjusted?

2: Upper Vuk and Scoop Coil strengh varies during game
Coilsetting is UpperVuk is 8
Coilsetting is Scoop is 6

Sometimes it need 2-3 attempts to get the ball back to the game. Sometimes the first attempt works perfect.
It seems like the voltage is going down....

3: Trunkmultiball - left flipper spongy
During trunk multiball the left flipper lost the power for a a few milliseconds and dropped.
Then it worked normal till the next ball lands on it.
Enabeld "AutoBoost" but didn't solved my problem.
During the seance-multiball it worked flawless.

Hope you can help me to enjoy the game!
Thank you

I'm working it.. Not sure as of yet who will be going!

On my catapult, 27 throws wide to the right every time. Lower the power till it just clears the trunk lip. If the ball then misses to the left, you may be deflecting off the ramp. I moved my ramp the the right -- see my post and photos on p 116. Also, there is a cleaning procedure that is supposed to help, posted on API site. Culprit for all your problems seems to be power fluctuation, something api still needs to address. search this thread for posts on power.

The left / right movement on the catapult arm doesn't effect the throw.. What effects the throw is a dirty fulcrum. Take it apart and clean it, your catapult problem will be gone. Here is the link http://s4.american-pinball.com/img/support/2018-9/CATAPULT-THROW-ERROR.pdf

I will look into other issues you are experiencing.

Your power is probably going up and down at the wall socket.

Get the wall voltmeter I outlined in an earlier post.

Get the Variac:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GNKJX47/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Without it all of your game adjustments are subject to power from the wall changing.

I installed the variac and set it to 117v-118v. The trunk shot was amemic at 117v but still worked, 118v was just about perfect and is making the shot 99% of the time.

With the variac, If I find that the coil adjustment I want is between settings like the trough at 7 and I want 7.5, I can just nudge the power up .5v

Now my game adjustments make sense and dont change every 15 mins, finally Im getting control of this game and dialling it in properly.

Quick question...maybe I missed this in the past 117 pages, is a full manual coming out for Houdini? Will original owners get one?

Apologize if this has been addressed already.

https://www.american-pinball.com/support/

its online

Printed at my work on their later printer for free, bound and covered at FedEx office for $5
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Really worth it.
It's a nice manual, they wanted $45 to color print on heavier glossy paper and bind it.
But I mark my manuals up with notations.

Plus, I'm too cheap for that

I cheked the Voltage:

It is between 231,xxV and 229,xxV most of the time is 230,xxV

I plugged in a visual meter into a wall outlet on the same circuit/breaker to observe the power while playing.
This told me a lot about my location.
I can see the power before, during and after a game to make an assessment of what is going on in the game at various power levels.

It has been an illuminating experience and I look at my games differently now as far as how they play and why there are differences day to day.

All of my games are affected by voltage fluctuations. Houdini more than others, but a big change affects all of them in different ways.

I did the same... But this +/- 1 volt.... From 230v. Never thought that it has such a big impact...
I thought the Transformator in Houdini bring it down to 118 and hold it in a constant level

it does not.

I had to get a variac to stabilize my terrible power.

And yes a 2 or 3 volt change is very noticeable on Houdini.

It can be the difference between the catapult hitting the lip of the trunk vs a perfect shot using the same exact settings.

Sorry but that is no solution for me.
My poweroutlet in the gameroom gives 230v +/- <1% variation constant. Never more then 2,3V +/-. So i think my powersupply in my game room is pretty fine. And all other Pins works flawlessly...

I hope AP finds a solution for this phenomenon. And i hope it comes from software and proc, so maybe Gerry can help to figure out a good solution.

I will ask a friend of mine. He is tv and radio electrican and maybe he has an idea to fix this issue before/at the Transformator.

I'm not willing to spend 100-150$ extra, only to run this game how it should from factory.

So hoping we'll see a good solution to fix this phenomenon.

Yes it appears your power is perfectly fine. The power at my location changes by 10 volts periodically.

Hopefully someone here or at API can find a quick fix.

As far as the flippers collapsing and losing power that is related to the game not having end of stroke switches on the flippers.

Did you have an how to or pictures? I have some EOS switches in my storage

That would help me

Thank you

I second that.

rosh has outlined this in an earlier post, its actually pretty easy if you have the spare parts, tools and experience to do this kind of thing.

Weren't there whispers of a daughter board not to long ago? Great game, but power supply definitely needs to be addressed.

I really hope they do release an add-on flipper board that helps stabilize the power.

OK- 117 pages is a lot to sift through. I'll look.