Yes.

Powered stand alone units are available that plug into the wall for power and into the source/amp for signal.

Powered speakers of any type (regular or sub) are punchier and have more clarity. The increased power to the speaker magnets make them more responsive.

However it's good to mix unpowered speakers in the setup to add warmth also.

My glass had a sticker in the upper right that said "Proudly made in the USA".

I took it off because I thought the glass was installed upside down due to the logo correctly read not being in the lower left

For what it's worth - mines on the upper right, but it was installed by a distributor.

Off topic reply, but just a FYI. Don't clean with ammonia based products!

That would make mine upside down compared to yours.

I have a feeling that the logo is supposed to be on the underside of the glass in all cases.

My JJP glass has the logo in the lower left. JJP has stated that this is correct from them.

API didn't say what was correct yet.

A ball shot into the stage is getting caught on the front lip. Like every time.

Searched but nothing turned up. Any tips before I dive in? thanks,

-- Jim

darn it, that's what it was - I thought there were only four! whoops

Do you mean that the ball is getting caught on the lip when you try to shoot it in there? or when it releases the ball from the front of the stage after it's been captured/shot in there? Because people have reported both. I believe you can adjust the stage, although I do not know how to do it

Increase the pitch a little.
I had it happen at 5.9 pitch.
Now I'm at 6.3.
The game is way less floaty.
6.5 is also good but a little fast and the higher flipper power collapses the flippers a lot.

But the game plays great at either pitch.

Disable stage eject in the settings.

I flipped my glass over and the logo is on the lower left now.

It looks correct.

I tweaked my horizontal pitch to be down by point 1 degrees to the left, adjusting the right front leg only.

Way fewer keylane rejects straight down the middle and it has so far not increased the outlane drains to the left.

The ball more often hits the very end of the left flipper out of the keylane.

It's a subtle adjustment but I'm trying to minimize cheap drains.

This might make the milk an loop more accessable also.

Based on what I've experienced, master magician mode starts after 7 Houdini letters are earned, no matter how you earn them. I set mine up to award letters liberally, for now.

Yeah, when the ball is shot in there it doesn't sit in the hole and doesn't activate the stage switch. It bounces back to the lip and nothing happens until a ball search. The game takes the ball down, closes the stage, and it kicks out of the scoop.

I'll search some more and try some of the other tips and report back for posterity, thanks.

Check the stage optos. There are more than one. Sounds like one isn't working or has come unplugged.

Regarding the magic glass, is there coating on only one side? I thought it was coated on both sides but i'm not sure.

One side from what I understand.

BarryJ is this corrrct?

But it sounds like the logo is on the topside, no? I think we need some input from AP rather than speculation.

When the logo is on the top side it is backwards and unreadable

When it is underneath it reads correctly.

With the logo in the lower left position it reads correctly and it is on the bottom of the glass.

I can only surmise that that is the correct position for the logo and also surmise that at that point the coating is on the bottom of the glass.

But it's only a guess without further input from API.

I can tell you one thing though, when cleaning the glass with sparkle glass cleaner, one side feels more like glass the other side is more frictiony or sticky like maybe it's coated.

This is compared to my other play field glasses.

So I put what appeared to be the coated side underneath at the bottom of the glass to protect it I hope this is correct.

Anybody know if the regular glass also has the “made in the USA” sticker or just magic glass?

The regular Houdini glass does, too.

I thought so, thx!

Here's mine. Looked on the AP site, no info - even about what cleaner to use. Ever look for info on the other invisible glass vendors?

20180826_AP_magic_glass (resized).jpg

With the logo in the upper right my theory is the coating is on the bottom of the glass at that point.

I think you should be okay, as I said earlier my logo was in the upper left when I got the game.

Is it wrong I hate that printing on the glass?
How visible is it during game play.

It should be under the lock bar when it's on the bottom like that

Rather than spend my life going back through all the pages, is there a rules post somewhere? Meaning, what you do to accomplish? I thought there was one.

Thanks!

Tilt forums is usually the best place to find rulesheets:

http://tiltforums.com/t/houdini-rulesheet/3934

Thanks, I couldn't tell from the pic.
And what is the best way to clean Magic glass?
Lastley- when you get a sheet, are there no instructions for installation or care?

Must be powered.

Ammonia free cleaners and paper towels plus maybe a lint free cloth (I use coffee filters to clean off lint).

I buy sparkle glass cleaner, it works really good.

BarryJ or rosh are there any adjustments of the stage mechanism possible? I've calibrated mine more than once but based on the video that you posted of the stage eject working I think the captive ball sits high on mine. I don't really care that the stage eject doesn't work but I think it may be causing more rejected shots to the open stage than I should / could be seeing if it sat a little lower.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-clean-invisiglass

These 2 Cliffies were most difficult to install so I took a couple of pics.

20180821_192443 (resized).jpg

20180821_193259 (resized).jpg

A ball save is needed when exiting stage after card mode. Don't remember if it was mentioned being in the next release. I am waiting to get that version before starting a list because most have been mentioned. The big mechanical issues remain 1) stabilizing ball launch into trunk (partially a power board issue and partially the stability of catapult cup and arm 2) flippers are folding like a cheap suit (eos is needed in flipper assemblies).

Mine's currently up by the backglass. You don't even see it because a person tends to focus on the playfield which is a lot lower and you are looking at it from a shallow angle. I circled it below in red from a players perspective. I think people wouldn't even see it unless I circled it

Capture (resized).PNG

You bring up a interesting point. I wonder if an airball could damage the coating? If it's really just on one side, maybe the top is the best bet?

I don't think an airball will affect it. But tools, jewelry, bottles etc will certainly scuff it up.

So it stays underneath!

This above all else is the most important.

It affects gameplay negativly.
This should not be allowed.

I believe we will have a fix shortly

A lot of times the coatings on glass aren't scratched but rather turns the glass into "sand paper" I.e. you aren't scratching the glass but rather putting something on the glass.

I don't know the coating on magic glass but generally thermal coatings have the sandpaper effect.

It's a lot like coatings in nice singlasses.

Wow! I really hope so.

I LOVE THIS GAME !

It's my only real complaint other than the scrapes in my $100 art blades from a cabinet that is 1/4" too narrow.

But that doesn't affect game play, it just pisses me off a lot...

It's not just that, but the media AP printed the Houdini art blades are too much like paper and not enough like the vinyl ones Stern uses that are much more durable. They tear like paper, too.

This happened on my game on day one. Very frustrating. Luckily I caught it before it did too much damage and I was able to repair it somewhat so it’s barely visible. I had to bend that metal piece on the left side of the playfield slightly. Something new owners should be aware of before they lift their playfield for the first time.

I have those exact protectors.
I was planning on using then to protect my game for years to come.

Sadly there is less than 3/32" clearance for both sides if the playfield.

On my game, that's 3/64" per side.

I could never jam the 1/16" plastic in the gap. There is just no room.

I tried on day one and it's a no go.

All houdini's will have scraped, chipped , crappy looking art blades after lifting the playfield 3 times as I have.

I was super careful and had a spotter. Still it happened.

I'm saddened by it, but still the game ROCKS!

That's exactly where I got a chip.
Fortunately its behind the milk can and it's barely noticable.

I'll probably order a sticker to cover it.

Mod couple are you reading this?
Here's a mod that will sell well.

Scratch covering stickers to add to the artwork !

Not sure if there is a Mod opportunity but curious if anyone has considered adding a strip of mylar to the edge of the playfield or possibly to the side art itself? Fairly thin and yes might be slightly shiny but rather strong in most cases. I think Marco sells it by the foot to whatever size you like. Just a thought and yes I agree the side art is painfully thin..

It's not just thin, it's the wrong kind of media for art blades. Essentially adhesive paper.

Gotta say I’m disappointed in the art blade quality as well. For $100, I expected it to be great but they are thin. The mod guys (pingraffix) have a nice product.

Still love the game though.

I guess I got lucky. I have lifted my playfield many times without issues.