Sana'a
I just got another one yesterday, and now they are even including a Fender bumper sticker!
This deal keeps getting better and better.
(Topic ID: 170072)
Quoted from vid1900:I just got another one yesterday, and now they are even including a Fender bumper sticker!
This deal keeps getting better and better.
Same here.
We ordered another earlier this week as a Christmas present for my brother in law.
Quoted from Mike_J:We ordered another earlier this week as a Christmas present for my brother in law.
Shit! Any way to marry into your family?
I got zip for Xmas last year!
rd
Now that I am waiting for the Strat I finally caved in on I have been thinking about the mod possibilities. I think I might just leave it as it is for a while and give it a workout and see how it goes. But if I can't resist the urge to mod it, here is what has been discussed in this thread so far plus some others to consider. If anyone has more throw them in!
- the roller nut as described in detail by Vid. What it will do from what I understand is to better keep the guitar in tune after use of the whammy bar OR after a lot of string bending. I got a quote from a good shop to do this for $100 which sounds ok. I don't feel like trying that job out on that brand new guitar. I'm going to try the guitar as it comes for a while and see if I have enough issues to want to do it.
- strap locks. Should be easy enough to put on. Such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000960KNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl
- Graph Tech string saver. This is supposed to reduce string breakage. It sounds iffy to me, it just seems to be teflon coated metal. But some people swear by these. I have snapped a number of high E strings lately bending them, but those were 9s and I'm not sure I would put those on this guitar. Does anyone know what size strings it comes with by the way?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DUW26/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl
- color change. I'm not a huge fan of the white pick guard, but I could probably live with it. But I think I would rather have everything black - the pick guard, knobs, pickup covers, etc. Its not too hard or expensive to change everything. One thing that is slightly annoying is that the standard black pick guards aren't really all black. They are made of 3 plys and the middle one is white, which means you will see a white edge around it. Some 1 ply all black versions are available but I don't know how good those are.
Minneapolis, MN
Quoted from xsvtoys:- strap locks. Should be easy enough to put on. Such as amazon.com link »
Strap locks are great! Just 1 wood screw each to install.
Quoted from xsvtoys:- the roller nut as described in detail by Vid. What it will do from what I understand is to better keep the guitar in tune after use of the whammy bar OR after a lot of string bending.
You can put the Tremolo arm all the way down to the pickguard, and the guitar snaps back into tune.
No creaking or popping at the nut at all.
Better than my Floyds or Kahlers because I don't need any tools to change the strings
....AND maybe the best part, you can change string gauges without installing a new nut. You can try 52s and then go back into the 40s without buying and fitting a new nut every time.
Quoted from xsvtoys:Does anyone know what size strings it comes with by the way?
It comes with 9s.
Quoted from xsvtoys:One thing that is slightly annoying is that the standard black pick guards aren't really all black.
Fender has made all black ones, like on the David Gilmour Signature Stratocaster (it's a SSS though).
I don't see a HSS one in the 2017 catalog, but ebay probably has them.
Quoted from rotordave:Shit! Any way to marry into your family?
I got zip for Xmas last year!
rd
My wife does all of the gift giving. Thanks to her generosity, I will never retire.
Quoted from vid1900:You are in luck, his brother is gay.
Hmmmmm ... dunno if I would swap sides for a Strat. A new Jem 7V, maybe ... hmmmmm
rd
USACG (that's USA Custom Guitar for the newbies) has a secret deal until the end of November.
You can get a FLAME MAPLE neck for $179 (coupon code "rain")
or a Strat/Tele/Jag body for $129 (code "northernlights")
USACG does the necks and bodies for most of those boutique guitar builders you drool over.
So if you have an old guitar with a crap neck, or you always wanted a neck with those gigantic 6000 frets, or you always wanted to have a relic Jaguar but did not want to chew up your mint one, this is your big chance to DIY.
Everything is done CNC, so whatever thickness neck or pickups you want, USACG will program their computer cutter and it all comes out perfect.
https://shop.usacustomguitars.com/product-category/killer-deal/
strat-replacement-body-alder-unfinished-p4241-4232_medium (resized).jpg
Amp opinions?
I know nothing about electric guitar amps. I've played acoustic only for the past 10 years or so.
The epic tube ones are a little out of my price area.
Looking at:
Fender Mustang III V.2 100 or Mustang II V.2 40
Fender Champion 100 or 40
Peavey Bandit 112
Not sure if there is any difference in the Fender 40W vs. 100W models besides loudness ability?
I'm just home playing, maybe someday with a few friends in a small basement/garage band, but no gig/club/stage loudness needed for the foreseeable future.
I like a variety of guitar sounds, these all seem like they can do most of it.
What is the best of these, or is there something out there I've overlooked?
Quoted from KloggMonkey:Amp opinions?
I know nothing about electric guitar amps. I've played acoustic only for the past 10 years or so.
The epic tube ones are a little out of my price area.
Looking at:
Fender Mustang III V.2 100 or Mustang II V.2 40
Fender Champion 100 or 40
Peavey Bandit 112
Not sure if there is any difference in the Fender 40W vs. 100W models besides loudness ability?
I'm just home playing, maybe someday with a few friends in a small basement/garage band, but no gig/club/stage loudness needed for the foreseeable future.
I like a variety of guitar sounds, these all seem like they can do most of it.
What is the best of these, or is there something out there I've overlooked?
I've used a Peavey typical solid state amp for years and it has been fine. I just got the Monoprice 15 watt tube amp from their Black Friday sale. It is half the cost of the ones you are looking at. I simply could not believe how nice that thing sounds. Maybe it's because I have never used a tube amp. The difference between it and the solid state Peavey is like night and day. So far I have only played plugged straight into it with no effects. Even without the distortion I usually hide behind I was able to make some actual pleasing sounds come out of that thing. Even my wife said from the other room "wow that didn't sound nearly as bad as usual". There are plenty of reviews and YouTube videos about it if you want to check it out.
If you are playing at home, any of these will be waaay more than loud enough. Unless you live alone on 10 acres maybe. Heck the Monoprice even has an input jack that sets it at 1 watt instead of 15 watts and even going into that I didn't get it much above 3 without it getting too loud for the tolerance of others in the house.
One problem with the tube amp for sure is that the sound gets sweeter the more it is cranked, so it is so tempting to play it loud. When I'm alone in the house I'll be cranking it. 
After trying this, I'd have to say even if you don't want to get the Monoprice you should consider a tube amp in your list. There were some good recommendations earlier in this thread.
So, why was this model clearanced so cheap? Was the whole "personality card" idea a bust? Are they making new guitars that use them these days?
Quoted from DanQverymuch:So, why was this model clearanced so cheap?
2 year old model (going on 3) and only black was available.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:Was the whole "personality card" idea a bust? Are they making new guitars that use them these days?
People did not understand what the cards were (they though they were "effects" rather than just tone caps and switches).
All the new Gibson HP guitars have those switches inside too, so maybe they will have better luck educating the public on what they are.
Quoted from vid1900:People did not understand what the cards were (they though they were "effects" rather than just tone caps and switches).
All the new Gibson HP guitars have those switches inside too, so maybe they will have better luck educating the public on what they are.
I agree, I had to watch a few youtube videos and read a few reviews before I understood their function.
Quoted from xsvtoys:I've used a Peavey typical solid state amp for years and it has been fine. I just got the Monoprice 15 watt tube amp from their Black Friday sale. It is half the cost of the ones you are looking at. I simply could not believe how nice that thing sounds. Maybe it's because I have never used a tube amp. The difference between it and the solid state Peavey is like night and day. So far I have only played plugged straight into it with no effects. Even without the distortion I usually hide behind I was able to make some actual pleasing sounds come out of that thing. Even my wife said from the other room "wow that didn't sound nearly as bad as usual". There are plenty of reviews and YouTube videos about it if you want to check it out.
If you are playing at home, any of these will be waaay more than loud enough. Unless you live alone on 10 acres maybe. Heck the Monoprice even has an input jack that sets it at 1 watt instead of 15 watts and even going into that I didn't get it much above 3 without it getting too loud for the tolerance of others in the house.
One problem with the tube amp for sure is that the sound gets sweeter the more it is cranked, so it is so tempting to play it loud. When I'm alone in the house I'll be cranking it.
After trying this, I'd have to say even if you don't want to get the Monoprice you should consider a tube amp in your list. There were some good recommendations earlier in this thread.
20% off for cyber Monday today. makes it 205.76 shipped. Looks good but how do you do the different sounds? Buy pedals? Or will this one do more than just the clean standard sound?
OK I got a bit of time on it today and tried some things out. I generally get the different sounds I want out of pedals. I did read on one guitar forum that it "loves pedals". With just a bit of testing so far, I would agree.
So, you can get some different sounds by changing the amp knobs for treble, bass, gain, etc, along with whatever pickup switches you have on your guitar. But it isn't a huge variety of sounds (clean). If you want to be able to get all sorts of different sounds, like Marshall amp, Fender amp, and so forth, then probably one of those solid state modeling amps would be better.
I still have only played it a little bit, and I still am very happy. But so far I think it is a good complement to the Peavey solid state (mine is a Peavey Envoy 110 from the 90s). I think -maybe- the Peavey might be a bit better if you want to feed it some distortion and go for a more metal approach with excess palm muting and such. But still, the Monoprice is close and sounds great. I tried some back and forth testing with the main pedal I have used so far which is the much-despised OR much-worshiped (depending on who you talk to) Boss Metal Zone MT-2. If there is a difference between the amps, its pretty small. But the Peavey does seem to sound a bit better for that pedal, especially playing something metal-like. I also tried a fuzz pedal on both, and it seemed about the same. I have a bunch more pedals on the way that I bought on Black Friday sales so I will be experimenting some more.
BUT - if you want to play clean, there is no contest whatsoever. I have rarely done much clean playing, mainly because, well, I suck at guitar pretty much and when I play clean it tends to sound like total garbage. But if you want to try some jangly chords or some blues-type sounds, the clean tone through that Monoprice tube amp is far better than the Peavey solid state. So much so that I actually enjoyed playing it clean and it even sounded pretty nice to my surprise. Its the "warmth" as they say. Or maybe I am finally getting a bit better, who knows.
So, so far I would say, I am glad to have both a solid state and the tube amp to play around with. I think you would be happy either way, but a lot will depend on what you want to do. Want to mess around with modeling a bunch of different sounds and push a lot of metal? A solid state would be good. Want to play clean stuff? Hard to beat the tube amp....
Of course they also make a variety of multifunctional effects boxes that can be used in front of any amp to create all sorts of different sounds, like Line 6 and such. I don't have any experience with those, maybe someone else here does and can comment on that.
Quoted from vid1900:2 year old model (going on 3) and only black was available.
People did not understand what the cards were (they though they were "effects" rather than just tone caps and switches).
All the new Gibson HP guitars have those switches inside too, so maybe they will have better luck educating the public on what they are.
On a somewhat-related note, the "word" floating around is that sometime very soon the American Standard from Fender will be discontinued, no longer made, no longer sold new. They are switching to what will be called the "Pro". Not much as far as details yet.
Quoted from xsvtoys:On a somewhat-related note, the "word" floating around is that sometime very soon the American Standard from Fender will be discontinued, no longer made, no longer sold new. They are switching to what will be called the "Pro". Not much as far as details yet.
Yeah, Fender is getting like Gibson; making the line so confusing that you never know where any model falls into the lineup.
"Wait, you mean that the Custom is lower than the Standard???....."
Quoted from xsvtoys:On a somewhat-related note, the "word" floating around is that sometime very soon the American Standard from Fender will be discontinued, no longer made, no longer sold new. They are switching to what will be called the "Pro". Not much as far as details yet.
I heard they are adopting the following lineup, following some other industry they have been watching closely ....
Costco model ... guitar made of cardboard
Pro ... stripped back. One pickup. 4 strings.
Premium ... gets the same 6 strings as the LE model, but is a very undesirable colour
LE ... what a guitar used to be in the 1990s. 6 strings, pickups, volume and tone controls.
Super LE: the LE with a Yngwie Malmsteen figure superglued to the headstock, and some pinstriping on the pickguard.
Sounds like a winner.
rd
Weyburn, SK
Quoted from rotordave:I heard they are adopting the following lineup, following some other industry they have been watching closely ....
Costco model ... guitar made of cardboard
Pro ... stripped back. One pickup. 4 strings.
Premium ... gets the same 6 strings as the LE model, but is a very undesirable colour
LE ... what a guitar used to be in the 1990s. 6 strings, pickups, volume and tone controls.
Super LE: the LE with a Yngwie Malmsteen figure superglued to the headstock, and some pinstriping on the pickguard.
Sounds like a winner.
rd
I am happy to report that my daughter has been playing her new Fender for at least 2 hours each day and, at this time, there are no signs of ghosting.
Quoted from xsvtoys:OK I got a bit of time on it today and tried some things out. I generally get the different sounds I want out of pedals. I did read on one guitar forum that it "loves pedals". With just a bit of testing so far, I would agree.
So, you can get some different sounds by changing the amp knobs for treble, bass, gain, etc, along with whatever pickup switches you have on your guitar. But it isn't a huge variety of sounds (clean). If you want to be able to get all sorts of different sounds, like Marshall amp, Fender amp, and so forth, then probably one of those solid state modeling amps would be better.
I still have only played it a little bit, and I still am very happy. But so far I think it is a good complement to the Peavey solid state (mine is a Peavey Envoy 110 from the 90s). I think -maybe- the Peavey might be a bit better if you want to feed it some distortion and go for a more metal approach with excess palm muting and such. But still, the Monoprice is close and sounds great. I tried some back and forth testing with the main pedal I have used so far which is the much-despised OR much-worshiped (depending on who you talk to) Boss Metal Zone MT-2. If there is a difference between the amps, its pretty small. But the Peavey does seem to sound a bit better for that pedal, especially playing something metal-like. I also tried a fuzz pedal on both, and it seemed about the same. I have a bunch more pedals on the way that I bought on Black Friday sales so I will be experimenting some more.
BUT - if you want to play clean, there is no contest whatsoever. I have rarely done much clean playing, mainly because, well, I suck at guitar pretty much and when I play clean it tends to sound like total garbage. But if you want to try some jangly chords or some blues-type sounds, the clean tone through that Monoprice tube amp is far better than the Peavey solid state. So much so that I actually enjoyed playing it clean and it even sounded pretty nice to my surprise. Its the "warmth" as they say. Or maybe I am finally getting a bit better, who knows.
So, so far I would say, I am glad to have both a solid state and the tube amp to play around with. I think you would be happy either way, but a lot will depend on what you want to do. Want to mess around with modeling a bunch of different sounds and push a lot of metal? A solid state would be good. Want to play clean stuff? Hard to beat the tube amp....
Of course they also make a variety of multifunctional effects boxes that can be used in front of any amp to create all sorts of different sounds, like Line 6 and such. I don't have any experience with those, maybe someone else here does and can comment on that.
Just another note - the Monoprice amp does not have a headphone jack. Kind of a bummer because I do like to use that quite a bit. Although, that is something that should be used with caution.
Quoted from freezie:i just died reading that Dave , LMFAO...
Take it easy champ ... my humour is not meant to be fatal. 
rd
Quoted from xsvtoys:Want to mess around with modeling a bunch of different sounds
Thanks for the input. I think I'll narrow it down to some of the ones with more options.
Fender Mustang II V.2 40
Fender Champion 40
Thinking that the 40w will be plenty on these no need for the 100w option here
OR
Would the Fender Super-Champ X2 15W be a good hybrid between the tube and SS worlds?
Quoted from rotordave:Take it easy champ ... my humour is not meant to be fatal.
rd
you need to back off some then ..damn !
Quoted from KloggMonkey:Thanks for the input. I think I'll narrow it down to some of the ones with more options.
Fender Mustang II V.2 40
Fender Champion 40
Thinking that the 40w will be plenty on these no need for the 100w option here
OR
Would the Fender Super-Champ X2 15W be a good hybrid between the tube and SS worlds?
I don't know about any of those. Hopefully Vid or some of the others might have some ideas there. What I do is Google them up and read reviews on Amazon and other sites like Musicians Friend and also there are usually a bunch of Youtube reviews to get some ideas about the pluses and minuses for the different one. I tend to obsess about all of the details of every choice for weeks or sometimes months before I make a decision. In the end, probably any of them would be good. After all, if EVH comes over and takes your guitar and plays it through your amp, it is going to sound awesome no matter what!
And 100w at home I think would be a monster! I think 40w should be good. In the end it all depends on each person. But these things can get really loud just sitting in a room at home. A lot of people play at home with 5w amps and they are plenty good. However, if you join up with others, particularly a drummer, then you might need more volume to keep up with the mix from what I have read. I've never played with a drummer, but have jammed with other guys and that is easy to do by adjusting everyone's amp levels.
For those of you considering a new cheap amp for practicing with your new Fender guitar you may want to consider the new Boss "Katana" line. Loaded with features, great tube amp simulations and you get to choose from 55 BOSS effects using the free BOSS Tone Studio editor software (only 3 usable at any one time though).
https://www.boss.info/us/categories/amplifiers/katana/
These amps are getting great reviews on The Gear Page:
http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/boss-katana-amplifiers.1744135/
They are a great price especially in the USA. The 100W 1x12 combo is just $329. The 50W 1x12 is only $199!
http://www.sweetwater.com/c625--Guitar_Combo_Amps?params=eyJmYWNldCI6eyJCcmFuZCI6WyJCb3NzIl19fQ
The guys raving about it say that it really does emulate the feel of a tube amp and at low volumes which is a real benefit for basemnt hacks like me. Has a headphone output and can also act as a USB recording interface.
I haven't had the chance to try one yet so please do so yourself before buying
For anyone interested Klogg's foray in to amp buying thread derail...
Got the Fender Mustang III v2, is still 263.99 at Musician's Friend seems like a good deal to me so that made the decision easier.
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/fender-mustang-iii-v.2-100w-1x12-guitar-combo-amp?pfm=rv
It can emulate/model all of the famous tube amps plus do a bunch of effects etc. can't wait to pair it with my new Strat. Its 100w watch out neighbors!
So I picked up a Marshall Class 5 amp on Craigslist (thanks again Vid for the advice on that). I've had fun toodling around, but it's a bit loud to really crank it up in my urban house or garage later at night. So I'm planning on modding it as seen here to access a "bedroom volume" mode, which looks to be a simple solder job:
http://marshallroadhouse.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=6532
My question: I know nothing about how amps work, but understand that, at least in some amps, the capacitors can store a potentially lethal charge even after the amp's been sitting around unplugged for a week or two. That said, do I need to figure out how to discharge the capacitors before I attempt this mod? I ask only because a) it's a 5 watt tube amp and b) it looks like the board I'll be working on is separate from the mother board so I shouldn't have to be anywhere near that capacitors.
Assuming I do need to drain the caps, any advice on doing that when it appears that I can't readily access the capacitor leads without taking the motherboard out of the amp (or am I wrong in thinking I'd need to remove the motherboard and attack from below to access the leads on those capacitors)?
http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj550/smitty_p/Class5Inside2.jpg
Generally (you still have to be careful not to kill yourself), unplugging a tube amp with both the power AND standby switches on, will drain the large caps after a few minutes.
The heater circuit will kick off fast, so the sound will fade out, but the big caps could still be alive for a few more minutes. Give it time
Then, pull the power tubes and check the socket contacts to make sure your voltage is gone before you go in. The schematic will show you what tube socket pin carries the HV from the caps.
Quoted from vid1900:2017 Pro Strats $1399:
» YouTube video
No locking tuners, thicker neck, thinner frets, treble bleed volume control - check it out.
I still like $799 versus $1399.
It does have a real bone nut though. Honestly, does that make a bit of difference in reality? And for a top end guitar at that price, why not put the roller nut on it, and the locking tuners? The parts don't cost that much and the labor would be no different when you are assembling the guitar.
Quoted from fosaisu:So I picked up a Marshall Class 5 amp on Craigslist I know nothing about how amps work, but understand that, at least in some amps, the capacitors can store a potentially lethal charge even after the amp's been sitting around unplugged for a week or two. That said, do I need to figure out how to discharge the capacitors before I attempt this mod? I ask only because a) it's a 5 watt tube amp
Don't let the 5 watt designation fool you, make sure the caps are discharged before you go in and start poking around. Here's some good advice from the web and you can make sure they drained after you follow Vid's procedure above:
The large capacitors (filter caps) on your amp's circuit board MUST be drained before working on your amp. These caps can store a lethal dose of electricity. Using a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM), put your black lead into any chassis screw hole and with ONE hand in your pocket put the red lead on the positive side of one of the filter caps. If you read anything above 10V then I recommend draining your caps. Since the filter caps are wired in parallel draining one should drain them all but noones going to say anything if you want to check each cap individually. Better safe than sorry. To drain the caps you will need a resistor (I use a 5W 330 ohm cement resistor) with a least 1 1/2" to 2" of lead on each end. Bend the leads so that they will make contact with the capacitor's leads easily. Grip the resistor with a pair of insulated pliers (thick rubber handles) and with one hand in pocket place the resistor leads across the positive and negative capacitor leads. Hold it there for about 30 seconds. Take another reading with your DMM. Repeat this until you have gotten the caps below 10 volts.
Quoted from xsvtoys:I still like $799 versus $1399.
Me too, lol.
Quoted from xsvtoys:It does have a real bone nut though. Honestly, does that make a bit of difference in reality?
Probably not.
For a while nuts were Bone, then they found **more resonant** HD Plastic, then you had to have Brass for "max sustain", then Corian (like your mother-in-law's fake kitchen counter top), then you weren't cool if you did not have Graphite infused plastic, then pure Graphite, then Stainless Steel, then Fossilized Ivory, then.......back to bone.
The differences between all these materials is VERY subtle. You would hear more difference just picking up another same year/make/model guitar.
"The best sounding guitar I EVER heard has a Brass Nut !!!! Pure tone!" - overheard at Guitar Center. Of course, if that same guitar had a Stainless Nut, it would still be the best sounding guitar. Put a Brass Nut on a turd sounding guitar, and it will still sound like a turd.
Quoted from xsvtoys:And for a top end guitar at that price, why not put the roller nut on it, and the locking tuners?
It is important that no guitar ever have all the features you want on it. The locking tuners probably cost $2 more than the standards for a set, the LSR probably costs $3 each, the 2 Point Pivot Tremolo might be $1 more to build. You only see all those features on the $3000-8000 Fender guitars in the "Reserve Room".
All right you indecisive/procrastinating types: I got an email from Adorama and the deal is still on, now it says through Dec 31.
I just got mine yesterday. Here it is next to its brother the Fender JP-90 bass.
Fender American Deluxe Strat and JP-90 (resized).jpg
And in the lineup. The blue one is the Valley Arts Custom Pro and then the black MIJ 1989 Ibanez SG570. To the right of the $800 Fender Deluxe (which is really $1200 unless you snatch this deal) is the infamous Chinese Spectrum strat, which I got for $63. I got it in 2008 from a Kohls Christmas sale believe it or not. Its basically the same thing as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-AIL-94FM-Custom-Electric/dp/B003XJ2SSM
The next thing I will be doing a close inspection and comparison of the Fender and the Spectrum, to see if I can find the differences. Of course, there are a number of pretty good reviews on Youtube of these cheap Chinese knockoffs compared to the real thing, so I will be using some of what I learned there to make my own comparison. Amazingly, these knockoffs generally come out pretty well in these reviews.
If anyone has suggestions or questions about what to look for, let me know.
I spent some time messing around with it tonight. Plays so much better than my ESP!
I think it's time to upgrade my amp. All I've got is a 10W Hartke (yup, a Hartke guitar amp) practice amp. Would something like this be decent?
Edit: Just looked into this. Didn't realize it was a solid state combo amp. Probably a no-go for me.
Or this Line 6 for some more effects:
Quoted from xsvtoys:All right you indecisive/procrastinating types: I got an email from Adorama and the deal is still on, now it says through Dec 31.
http://www.adorama.com/fe118110710.html?emailprice=t&utm_medium=display&utm_source=criteo&utm_campaign=email
Yes indeedy, and they have just 26 left, according to their warehouse gadget, so I bet they run out before Xmas.
This has got to be the best deal ever on a new good Strat. Vid had the right idea, buy extras. Wish I could. Heck, I'd buy the whole pile if I could and sit on them, maybe sell one a year and watch it climb. Much more fun than some boring investment fund.
Quoted from DanQverymuch:This has got to be the best deal ever on a new good Strat.
Yes, the best I've ever seen.
And since California changed it's labeling laws for 2017, any new Stratocasters can't say "Made in USA" anymore*. So this may be your last chance to ever own a brand new, Made in USA Strat.
--------
*Since the Canadian Maple wood in the neck constitutes more than 10% of the value of the guitar, it can't be labeled Made in USA.
FENDER TELECASTER $379 shipped free.
--------------------------------------------------
Here's another crazy Adorama closeout deal, a Fender Telecaster with 3 Nocaster pickups.
Why 3 pickups? Don't know, maybe blame James Burton from Elvis' band.
Only comes in Black (the Natural color is $799), Maple neck, Alder body, Brass bridge
If you always wanted that Telecaster tone to complete your guitar collection, here is your chance to get one for the price of a Squire.
Mine's got some fret buzz on the low E and low A. More so on the E, it is pretty obvious when the open string is played, and less so on the A, but can definitely hear it. The other strings don't seem to have any. It is easy to hear just playing it unplugged, and you can hear it also from an amp when played clean.
Just curious if anyone else has seen this. I can't see anything wrong with the setup or the frets, but I am no luthier. I've got a good shop to go to so I probably will take it in to have them look at it. I don't particularly want to start messing with the truss rod or anything like that.
Quoted from xsvtoys:Mine's got some fret buzz on the low E and low A. More so on the E, it is pretty obvious when the open string is played, and less so on the A, but can definitely hear it. The other strings don't seem to have any. It is easy to hear just playing it unplugged, and you can hear it also from an amp when played clean.
Just curious if anyone else has seen this. I can't see anything wrong with the setup or the frets, but I am no luthier. I've got a good shop to go to so I probably will take it in to have them look at it. I don't particularly want to start messing with the truss rod or anything like that.
Unless you buy a guitar at a high end shop (ie: a real shop, not a chain like Mars or Guitar Center), you have to **set up** the guitar yourself.
Your guitar was in a box for the last 2 years, so leave the guitar out of the case for a few days to acclimate to the humidity in your home.
Find the smallest Allen Wrench that came in the goodie bag.
Start with the Low E string.
Find the 2 set screws on the leading edge of the saddle.
Turn both screws 1/8 of a turn clockwise to raise the saddle.
Retune the guitar and play around, making sure that you removed the buzz.
If it's still buzzing, raise the saddle a little more. You can't mess it up, so you can experiment and get a feel for the adjustment.
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Every time you switch to a different gauge or brand of string, you will have to adjust the saddles.
If you have a guitar tuner, I can show you how to set the intonation too.
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