Amazing Spider Man Inconsistent Switches

(Topic ID: 235796)

Amazing Spider Man Inconsistent Switches

By durgee7

11 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 22 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by frunch
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 11 days ago

Hello again my pinball friends!

I have decided to take on a beast of a project: 1980 Gottlieb Amazing Spider-Man. I inherited the game with many issues. So far, I have fixed all 6-digit displays, added free-play jumper wire, cleaned driver edge contacts, and added the extra ground and +5V in the interconnect harness. What I haven't done is replace the old orange filter capacitor (I have the replacement 12,000 25V from GPE), and I have not added any ground mods or performed the pop bumber board mods yet. At this point, I have a few switches operating as intended ( shown in video link below ). The 1st pop-out hole works, but 2 and 3 are not responding. The star rollover works, but pop bumbers do not respond. A few of the drop target switches respond, not all of them. When running switch diagnostic, I get 1, 40, 42. I checked all "42" switches (8 total) and none of them are closed. I have not checked individual connection voltages or continuity (with exception to the 2 wires I added), for the interconnect harness. The edge contacts for the driver board were cleaned using a pink eraser. The mpu board is a newer rottendog. The power board appears to be working as intended. My gut says this is a connector issue since some of the switches started working after cleaning driver board interconnect harness contacts. Also, I inherited the interconnect harness with the black and red wires added (without the additional ground and +5V).

Some more info: During diagnostic, the switches that don't register during gameplay do not register during diagnostic. .For the ones that work, their number appears in the display. Also, even though the 2 lower "42" switches work (see video), they do not register when activated during diagnostic. Lots of inconsistent switch issues. Once these switches are back to normal, the game will be great!

I added pics showing the non-activating switches in red. The highlighted switches are all the 42's.

I appreciate all of your time and feedback! Pinside has been really good to me.

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#2 10 days ago

I wanted to add a final list of working/non-working (non-activating) switches. After reading past posts from others in my situation, it looks like I need to replace the orange cap and perform the ground mod (even with newer mpu). I was just hoping there was a quicker way to rule out other issues such as the edge connector housing. Do you guys know where I can get new edge connectors (female housing)? Maybe I should somehow remove the wires from that vice grip inside the plastic connector, saving the female housing for a repinning project?

Also, during coil test 17, it went through 1, 2, 5, 6, 8, 9. 8 was the only coil that was silent during the diagnostic.

I'll keep posting my progress and let you all know if anything changes.


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#3 10 days ago

Wow... lotsa stuff. But I’ll take a shot at one.

I had my poppers intermittently going out. I thought it was a power supply and in the process of trying to debug it I shorted two adjacent power supplies on the fuse panel and trashed a couple transistors. After a couple of weeks of getting new parts and repairing it, unfortunately the poppers still didn’t work. All voltage levels on supplies were good but no poppers.

After digging a bit more in the schematic a found that the power to the poppers didn’t come directly from the power supply board but went through the mpu first. I forget which connector off the top of my head, but all I ended up doing was reseating that connector... maybe cleaning it a bit... and I got my poppers back.

Rarely I’ll lose the poppers any more but when I do I just wiggle or reseat the connector and I’m good to go.

In the end a whole lot of grief and repair just because I didn’t dig into the schematic before starting and find it was a simple fix.

Anyway, check the schematic and the connector that powers the poppers... it may be a simple fix too.

#4 10 days ago

Thanks srcdude! I will reseat all connectors, especially the one designated for pop bumpers, and study the schematic in more detail. Fyi - I have not modded the pop bumper boards. I'll attach a photo showing one of the boards which appears in good condition.

Funny you mention reseating. I had to reseat the mpu to display 1, 2 score display to get a segment of the digits to reappear. What an odd thing to have go wrong.

Thanks man!

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#5 10 days ago

Oh crap, I think the ground spare and +5VDC for the interconnect harness were supposed to be 18 gauge, not 22. Oh no.

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#6 10 days ago

I worked on a panthera and there was a bunch of corroded contacts on the switches stopping them from registering. A little fine grit sandpaper and some ISP alcohol fixed them right up. Might be worth checking.

#7 10 days ago

Thanks boat! Cleaning the switch contacts is a good start. Maybe I'll get lucky.

#8 10 days ago

Here's some more info from when I ran the solenoid diagnostic:

Noticed solenoid 8 was silent. After reading the schematic I looked at transistor at Q53. It looks like there is some corrosion at the top, along with some on the other side where there's a trace for the CR1 Diode. I'll need to look into this later.

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#9 10 days ago

Ok, I replaced the filter capacitor along with adding 18 gauge wires for the spare interconnect harness slots. There are now a few more switches that have stopped working, such as the rollover star. The next step is to thoroughly clean all suspect switch contacts. I'll keep updating as I get through this project.

Thanks for all the feedback so far. It has been helpful.

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#10 9 days ago

Here is an update from last night regarding the switches (see pics). I circled non-working switches in red. SW 42 is circled green since 2 of 8 are working.

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#11 9 days ago

It looks like all the switch wiring goes to 1J6. I would re-pin connector 1J6 with new edge connectors before going too much further troubleshooting the switches. Edge connectors are a well-known source of problems with these games, so it's smart to replace them whether or not it fixes the issues. You may want to replace the housing too, i find it much easier than trying to extract the pins.

Great Plains Electronics has all the parts you'll need, connector pins and housings:

Make sure to get pins for both wire gauges as needed: 18-20, and 22-26 ga.

#12 9 days ago

Thanks Frunch! That makes plenty of sense. Unfortunately, GPE is out of 19-pin connectors. At least I have some more direction. This is good. Thanks again!

Damn, looks like everyone is out of 19-pin edge connectors. I think I'll have to find a way to re-use my edge connector. Do you guys have any links showing how these wires can be removed without damaging the connector housing?

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#13 9 days ago

Looks like Marco has them, luckily! I remember when i was re-pinning the display connectors on my Black Hole, marco was the only place that had certain sizes at the time.

If it comes down to it, you can remove the connector pins from the housing using a small jeweler's flathead screwdriver to push the locking tab down, then pull the old connector pin through the back of the housing to remove it (with needle nose pliers). Easier said than done in my experience, but it was necessary for at least a couple connectors i couldn't get replacement housings for. I found sometimes the old pin would partially break inside the housing and have to be removed in 2 pieces. It can be a pain getting the old pins out, so be prepared for a fight. If anything, take pics/notes on which wire goes to each pin, then cut the wires off the connector so you can extract the pins from the housing in a more comfortable location.

#14 9 days ago

Yes! Good job Frunch! When checking Marco's site, I was looking at game specific connectors and not generics. Marco is my favorite. They have the best customer service (Steve), and super quick shipping. Based on my previous experience repinning tmnt data east, I had to snip all wires and replace the connector housing. I'm not sure this project will be very different. Yes, I take crap loads of pics, notes, photos due to past mistakes.

You are the man!

#15 9 days ago

Those look like IDC connectors, the wires should just pull out. If the pin is bad/corroded/broke I have not seen IDC replacements and I don't know if the crimp ones fit in that same housing. i need to find out though as I have a project Time Line that I need to do some pin work on.

#16 9 days ago

BorgDog, IDC - that's what I was thinking.

I had no luck pulling these out for my other pin. If you have any tips regarding the extraction and reuse of these connectors, please let me know. I appreciate your time.

#17 8 days ago

Hey Guys!

I ordered most of the connector housing for those molex edge connections but cannot figure out who sells 10-pin housings. Is it possible to order an extra long housing and cut to size? I've already checked with GPE, Marco, Pinball Life. I'm waiting to hear from Sullins Corp and Docent, in addition to Arcade Shop. I already committed to crimping edge contacts by buying a WT-HT-1919 crimper from GPE.

Update: Looks like Docent is my only hope for 10-pin edge housing. Now let's see how long it takes for them to reply.

Wish me luck on this repinning project.


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#18 8 days ago

Yeah, I'm gonna say this connector is toast.

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#19 8 days ago

I just went and checked out my Time Line, which is actually the first time I've looked at it since I picked it up, and it appears that the standard crimp-on card edge connectors will fit in that housing. I tried one I had and it appears to work in the one I know was broken. On inspection a couple of the other connectors housings have had them replaced with the crimp on ones. you should not need new housings, just new contacts.

I believe they are
or depending on wire size.

pic of broken idc type connector on top and crimp on connector on bottom.

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#20 8 days ago

Thanks BorgDog! I'll be getting new edge contacts by Friday or Saturday. Of course, I already ordered all the housing replacements for driver and mpu boards. At least I'll have extras for future projects. Good info!

#21 2 days ago

A1-J6 was the fix!!!

Thank you Everyone for your help!!! Pinside is wonderful!
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#22 1 day ago

Excellent! Good job

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