Hello again my pinball friends!

I have decided to take on a beast of a project: 1980 Gottlieb Amazing Spider-Man. I inherited the game with many issues. So far, I have fixed all 6-digit displays, added free-play jumper wire, cleaned driver edge contacts, and added the extra ground and +5V in the interconnect harness. What I haven't done is replace the old orange filter capacitor (I have the replacement 12,000 25V from GPE), and I have not added any ground mods or performed the pop bumber board mods yet. At this point, I have a few switches operating as intended ( shown in video link below ). The 1st pop-out hole works, but 2 and 3 are not responding. The star rollover works, but pop bumbers do not respond. A few of the drop target switches respond, not all of them. When running switch diagnostic, I get 1, 40, 42. I checked all "42" switches (8 total) and none of them are closed. I have not checked individual connection voltages or continuity (with exception to the 2 wires I added), for the interconnect harness. The edge contacts for the driver board were cleaned using a pink eraser. The mpu board is a newer rottendog. The power board appears to be working as intended. My gut says this is a connector issue since some of the switches started working after cleaning driver board interconnect harness contacts. Also, I inherited the interconnect harness with the black and red wires added (without the additional ground and +5V).

Some more info: During diagnostic, the switches that don't register during gameplay do not register during diagnostic. .For the ones that work, their number appears in the display. Also, even though the 2 lower "42" switches work (see video), they do not register when activated during diagnostic. Lots of inconsistent switch issues. Once these switches are back to normal, the game will be great!

I added pics showing the non-activating switches in red. The highlighted switches are all the 42's.

I appreciate all of your time and feedback! Pinside has been really good to me.

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I wanted to add a final list of working/non-working (non-activating) switches. After reading past posts from others in my situation, it looks like I need to replace the orange cap and perform the ground mod (even with newer mpu). I was just hoping there was a quicker way to rule out other issues such as the edge connector housing. Do you guys know where I can get new edge connectors (female housing)? Maybe I should somehow remove the wires from that vice grip inside the plastic connector, saving the female housing for a repinning project?

Also, during coil test 17, it went through 1, 2, 5, 6, 8, 9. 8 was the only coil that was silent during the diagnostic.

I'll keep posting my progress and let you all know if anything changes.

Thanks!

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Thanks srcdude! I will reseat all connectors, especially the one designated for pop bumpers, and study the schematic in more detail. Fyi - I have not modded the pop bumper boards. I'll attach a photo showing one of the boards which appears in good condition.

Funny you mention reseating. I had to reseat the mpu to display 1, 2 score display to get a segment of the digits to reappear. What an odd thing to have go wrong.

Thanks man!

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Oh crap, I think the ground spare and +5VDC for the interconnect harness were supposed to be 18 gauge, not 22. Oh no.

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Thanks boat! Cleaning the switch contacts is a good start. Maybe I'll get lucky.

Here's some more info from when I ran the solenoid diagnostic:

Noticed solenoid 8 was silent. After reading the schematic I looked at transistor at Q53. It looks like there is some corrosion at the top, along with some on the other side where there's a trace for the CR1 Diode. I'll need to look into this later.

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Ok, I replaced the filter capacitor along with adding 18 gauge wires for the spare interconnect harness slots. There are now a few more switches that have stopped working, such as the rollover star. The next step is to thoroughly clean all suspect switch contacts. I'll keep updating as I get through this project.

Thanks for all the feedback so far. It has been helpful.

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Here is an update from last night regarding the switches (see pics). I circled non-working switches in red. SW 42 is circled green since 2 of 8 are working.

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Thanks Frunch! That makes plenty of sense. Unfortunately, GPE is out of 19-pin connectors. At least I have some more direction. This is good. Thanks again!

Damn, looks like everyone is out of 19-pin edge connectors. I think I'll have to find a way to re-use my edge connector. Do you guys have any links showing how these wires can be removed without damaging the connector housing?

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Yes! Good job Frunch! When checking Marco's site, I was looking at game specific connectors and not generics. Marco is my favorite. They have the best customer service (Steve), and super quick shipping. Based on my previous experience repinning tmnt data east, I had to snip all wires and replace the connector housing. I'm not sure this project will be very different. Yes, I take crap loads of pics, notes, photos due to past mistakes.

You are the man!

BorgDog, IDC - that's what I was thinking.

I had no luck pulling these out for my other pin. If you have any tips regarding the extraction and reuse of these connectors, please let me know. I appreciate your time.

Hey Guys!

I ordered most of the connector housing for those molex edge connections but cannot figure out who sells 10-pin housings. Is it possible to order an extra long housing and cut to size? I've already checked with GPE, Marco, Pinball Life. I'm waiting to hear from Sullins Corp and Docent, in addition to Arcade Shop. I already committed to crimping edge contacts by buying a WT-HT-1919 crimper from GPE.

Update: Looks like Docent is my only hope for 10-pin edge housing. Now let's see how long it takes for them to reply.

Wish me luck on this repinning project.

Thanks!

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Yeah, I'm gonna say this connector is toast.

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Thanks BorgDog! I'll be getting new edge contacts by Friday or Saturday. Of course, I already ordered all the housing replacements for driver and mpu boards. At least I'll have extras for future projects. Good info!

A1-J6 was the fix!!!

Thank you Everyone for your help!!! Pinside is wonderful!
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Hey Guys!

I wanted to reopen this topic since it's directly related to ongoing issues. I apologize if you have already seen this post in the Gottlieb System 80 forum. I just wanted to further clarify some items, and ask for your feedback regarding ground mods, power board mods, etc.

Diagnostic: Lamps - all working
Diagnostic: Solenoids - #8 not firing
Diagnostic: Switches - 42 is always displayed, but I'm not seeing where any of the eight SW42 locations are CLOSED.

My repost from another forum topic with some revisions:

I thought my Gottlieb system 80 Amazing Spider-Man was totally fixed until I watched youtube videos showing the bottom slingshot bumpers making sounds as the ball made contact. Also, the "Same Player Shoots Again" lamps are not working on the playfield or the backbox when a new ball is awarded during gameplay. Per advice from another pinsider, I checked dip switch 22 for on/off but it had no effect on the "Same Player Shoot Again" bulbs. The lamp test confirmed all are working, but they still do not activate during gameplay.

I then noticed the switches for two SW42 locations ( right middle adjacent to L26 and L49, upper right adjacent to L49 and SW 31) are not activating when ball makes contact. I repinned A1J5, A1J6, A3J2, A3J5, A6J1, and repinned specific wires at A3J1(B bar = Sound 1), A3J3(C bar = Shoot Again Lamp). Guys, I'm stumped and wondering if this goes beyond a simple edge connector fix. The schematic doesn't seem to clear the confusion on my end.

To sum it up, sound (and points?) not working for the 2 lower slingshots, two switch locations for SW42 not activating, and Shoot Again lamps (backbox and playfield) not lighting during gameplay. Does anyone see a pattern with these issues? I'm relatively new to using my multimeter, and may need to brush up on testing diodes, transistors, etc.

I admit, all ground mods were not added. I ony added the extra wires to the MPU-to-Driver harness. Also, I have not modded the power board. The orange filter cap was replaced. Do you guys think this is an issue related to voltage, connectors, grounding? My gut still says connectors, but I think I've already replaced those connectors (and wire contacts) responsible for switches/strobes and sounds. Could this all be due to use of a rottendog mpu in place of the original board (which I happen to have loose from seller, that's missing a chip)?

As always, I appreciate your feedback!

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Frunch, very logical approach. I will check the switch diagnostic while A1-J6 is unplugged, and closely inspect those 8 switches. I think I know what you are talking about on both the lugs and that extra 'tension' leaf. This is a good start. Thank you!

With A1-J6 unplugged, switch diagnostic goes directly to 99.

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Since all switches are open during diagnostic when A1-J6 is unplugged, I will crimp new contacts and try again.

After crimping new contacts and using the original A1-J6 housing, there appears to be no change in gameplay. When I run the switch diagnostic, the numbers 37, 42, 67 appear. The difference with 42 displayed is that it flashes a bit, unlike 37 and 67. 67 is listed as the outhole, and I'm guessing it's closed due to the ball.

I haven't inspected the switch blades yet. I'll check tomorrow evening and see if I find anything worth mentioning.

Thanks again for your help!

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Yes gradient9, I was thinking of going under the playfield to take a look. I'll check those diodes on the diode board and report back. Thank you!

Fyi:

I'm going to check the following when I get home.

There are two diode areas at the bottom left (underneath back left) of playfield. I added a jumper at the credit/center coin chute diodes for free play.

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Ok, checked all the diodes underneath playfield and they all give good reading for black lead on banded side, red lead on non-banded side. When I switch leads, no change shows on my multimeter, just the number 1. I also checked wires and switch blades at the two non-activating switches. Between these findings and the previous check that unplugged A1-J6, this seems to be a connector issue or mpu. That surprises me since it's a newer rottendog board. I'll keep researching.

Fyi - I have the original untested control board, but I need to remove that Data Sentry battery, clean it up, and find out what chip is missing from top side (not sure what to buy).

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Ugh, this old control board has some nasty corrosion near the battery. Maybe this old board isn't going to be able to replace the rottendog as a means of comparison. I did read somewhere that reseating chips on rottendog boards can expose corroded plugs? Maybe it's some flakey thing that happens with this brand. I'll have to do more research.

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If it wasn't for your advice on carefully checking switch blades, I would never have fixed the issue. The lower bent blade was making contact with both blades. After adjusting the switch blades, all sounds for SW42 locations, including those two lower slings, are working!!! Also, all SW42 switch locations now activate!

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Hey Frunch!

Solenoid 8, that's one of my next items to look into. Also, that "Same Player Shoot Again" needs to be addressed. I'll keep posting as I check into those items. As for now, a huge win, and I am so very appreciative of all your support. There is no way I could solve these problems without your expertise.

As for the original mpu, I ordered Ed's kit from GPE. This is another project to get the original board working, just in case it's needed.

I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again!