Hi "Daughter of Hole" and father
Do You have a schema ? ipdb.org has no schema for "four roses" - but for Mardi Gras: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1544 and for Tom Tom: http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2578 .
Even better: King Pin http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1375 , as "Four Roses" it is a One player game with 5 "real" balls and Gobble Holes.
I must make a copy of the ipdb schema down onto my computer: "Righthandside Mouseclick" -> Save Target as ..." -> I look at my copy - I see the drawing of an old, Score-Motor, I fear "old Score Motors" - here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40515 on the underside of the playfield, in the center of the picture: Is this Your Score-Motor ?

Two Jones connectors in the Backbox: Are they clean ? wires soldered-on to Jacks / to sockets ? the Jones plugs plugged-in correct (no faulty offset) ?
Pins are transported "Backbox taken off". Very often people want to take out the playfield. So pins have bundle of wires and Jones plugs at the end - connecting cabinet, playfield, backbow. (The coin door is (mostly ?) also connected with a Jones-Plug). Just follow the bundle of wires and look "where do they go".

I do not understand "Match point Relay counts down, not up" - is "Match point Relay" written of a tag of paper near a relay in the pin ?

You want to start a game, Do you have 3 or 5 balls in the channel, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=5447 (named on the picture "Balls Played") - You throw in a coin, the pin starts to reset (Score-Wheels) - do these 3 / 5 balls dissapear (the dissapearing is a part of the Start-Procedure) ?

Mercury-Tilt: I have never seen such a goodie. The King Pin Schema shows at E-7: a Normally-Open Switch named "Mercury Switch" - when You do harm the pin: Switch will close and let current flow to activate the Tilt-Relay.
We can try to start "Four Roses" using the King Pin schema.
Greetings Rolf

Hi
great, You print out the King Pin schema - I like paper schemas. Have the schema this way: On the bottom, horizontal from left to right: the numbers 1, 2, 3 ... 21, 22. In the left bottom corner you see the text King Pin 271 1961. I would refer to schema-A-1 / B-1.
At schema-H-1 you shoud see a 1 Amp slow-Blow Fuse. The symbol of the transformer is at F-2, G-2. What do we see left-side of the transformer ? 110 Volt Line-Power, DANGER, Attention. Whenever You work on the pin or just look into the pin: ALWAYS unplug the Power-Cord (do it). Prepare some testing - THEN plug in and do the test - afterwards unplug again !

See (E-1, E-2) the Symbols of switches "Lock Relay", "Lock Relay", "Coin Relay", "Coin Relay" ? Throug simple switches on some Relays: 110 VAC Line Current flows, hmmm.

Bundle of wires and Jones Plugs - The manufacturers constructed the pins: We can unplug the Playfield, take it out of the pin and store the playfield somewhere - the BASIC Start-Procedure functions. Have both plugged-in and we try to start a game, well, first the "Lock-Relay". Do You have paper-tags in the pin telling You "This is the Lock-Relay" (this is the Reset-Relay, this is the Coin-Relay etc.) ?
Can You find the Lock-Relay ? Usually it is in the bottom of the Cabinet, to the right, away from the player.
IMPORTANT question: Have You unplugged the Line-Cord before You looked into the pin ?

Take a wooden stick (a ruler from school is fine) - wood or plastic is good (does not let current flow) - do NOT use a metal stick ! (Line-Cord unplugged) Practice a couple of times: Gently push the end of the wooden stick onto the "anchor plate of Lock-Relay" (You simulate: Coil gets current and pulls). Have a look at the Switches mounted on the Lock-Relay - some want to open - some want to close. Wires soldered-on ? contacts clean ? what wants to close: Does it close ? (open - open ?).
Now plug-in the Line-Cord - NOTHING should happen. Carefully push with the wooden stick onto the "anchor-plate of Lock-Relay" and let go. Question: Does the Lock-Relay keep-on pulling ? Do You have Light on the Playfield ? Light on the Backbox ?
Please write about the Lock-Relay, we then go further.

(((Afterwards I want to look at some switches and relays, Schema-D-1, D-2 up through to H-1, H-2. See Coin-Switches, Replay-Button-Switch, some relays: things to check)))
Greetings Rolf

Hi
I was hoping, somebody else KNOWING old Williams pins does help. I am not familiar with that "Turntable-like" Score-Motor. Schema A / B / C, 13 / 14 / 15 / 16 /17, the Score Motor: The "Turntable looks 90 degree-identical. I assume "A complete Turn in these old pins is a turn-of-90-degrees". Your pin starts, makes a full turn (90 degrees), stops and is happy. The Williams pins I am used to: They have "stand-up" Score-Motor - a "Full Turn" is a "turn of 180" degrees.

So Your Lock-Relay keeps-on pulling and You have Lights on the Playfield. Here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40513 I see in the Backbox "Game-Over" is lit.
Do You have the Backbox lightet ? Do You see "Game-Over" lighted ?

Here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40515 on the right I see a huge Relay-Bank. Is Your "Game-Over Relay in this Relay-Bank" ?
Unplug Line-Cord, can you manually move the long arm ? Look for the Coil / maybe two coils - pulling a plunger -> acting the arm -> lifting / moving the arm -> RESETTING ALL the relays in that bank ? Have a look, fumble around on the first of these relays - fumble on the Tilt-Relay (i hope it is the first relay) - can You make the Tilt-Relay "fall" (activated). Think of "Coil gets current -> pulls -> mechanical movement. Do a bit of resetting and let Tilt-Relay fall, several times. Do reset the Bank - NOW ONLY the Game-Over shall fell (I want to simulate "Game before has ended normal"). Plugin the Line-Cord, use the wooden stick -> move anchor-plate of Lock-Relay -> Illumination lights-up -> Do You see "Game Over lighted in the Backbox" ?, Hopefully.

You used the wooden stick on the Lock-Relay. Have the "Game-Over-Relay fallen", Plug-in Line-Cord, use the wooden stick and push onto the "anchor plate of Coin-Relay" and let go. The Coin Relay (schema-H-2) should hold for a while, the Relay-bank should reset (schema-H-1), the Reset-Relay (schema-H-3) should "start pulling", the Score-Reset-Relay (schema-H-3) should start pulling.

You have no action on the playfield (?) Look at schema-D-7 / -8 / -9: A switch on Reset-Relay, a switch on Game-Over-Relay, a switch on Tilt-Relay.
After the Reset is done: The Reset Relay must "let go / no more pulling", the Game Over Relay should be pushed (by the arm) into "Reset = player can play", there should be no Tilt (Tilt-Relay must be reset (by the arm). so these three switches should be closed and current can run through to bumpers an flipperfingers etc. Look at these Relays (are they reset ? / not pulling), all switches on these relays clean ?, wires soldered-on ?
Greetings Rolf

Hi
in this post I only write "in general" - for next steps "testing Four Roses": See post "to come".

I live in Switzerland (south of Germany) - I am (in time) ahead of You: 8, 9, 10 hours (?). so we might have some "space in time" between our posting.

Great, You can light-up "Tilt" and You can light up "Game-Over" and the "Reset-Arm" works.
I like to be nice and friendly an have the pin in state "former game was played "normal" and has ended "normal". So I like to have some points on the Score-Reels. Then I start a new game and enjoy "I can see the Score-Reel reset (an important part of the Reset-Procedure)".

Look at Your Score-Reels. Maybe a "winged Nut" - maybe a stripe of heavy plastic make the Reel "stay in place". Can You take out one / two Reels and manually put some points on the Reel(s).
Not the Tilt-Relay - but "Game-Over-Relay" shall be "fallen" (former game has ended normal) - start a new game -> does the pin reset the Score-Reels ? ( I guess so - but want to be sure of)

Great, You have the schema - we can use Jumper-Wire / Test-Light for checking (use Jumper-Wires ONLY when having a schema - You MUST know, what You want to jumper).

In another "Topic" / "other problems" Steve Fury shows a wonderful "Test-Light for testing 24 Volt (Relays) Circuitry,
HERE: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics post-12. In post-10 he writes about testing (I also made myself this handy tool).
Please make Yourself such a "Test-Light" - I would like to use it as described in his post-10. I also may want to use it "a bit different than post-12 / post-10": Use the "Test-Light" mounted PARALLEL*** to a Relay - the "Test-Light" AND the "Coil of the Relay" get current at the same time (there is plenty of current available): DOES THE "Test-Light" lights-up CLEARLY / BRIGHT ??? (Coil GETS current). I want to use the "Test-Light" similar to this: http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0168.html - BUT: Instead uf using "another Coil on a Relay" for testing: We use the "Test-Light" ...

Make Yourself such a Test-Light. K-Mart (and such) also sell cheap Gator-clips (no insulation around the clips) - we must pay more attention when using (not to make local shorts) - the cheap Gator-Clips are "good enough". Also make yourself one / (two, three) Jumper-Wires. A simmple wire with Gator-Clips on both ends (no Lightbulbs in between), about 10 feet long - we might want to make a connection "Inside the Backbox <-> Inside the Cabinet (at the fuse-holder "Transformer-Powerside" USING the fuse in our Jumpering).

Donating "Schema Four Roses" to ipdb.org (?): When I go to a local "Copy-Shop" to get me a PDF: I would have to pay around 50 Dollars ... From another US-pinsider I have gotten the information: Will cost 3, 4, 5 Dollars.

I have a cheap camera and tried to make pictures (like You did) - resolution not good enough.
In ipdb I have seen JPG's (donated, shown) reasonable resolution. Want to try (?): Make TWO pictures of the schema "Left side" and "Right side" (overlapping a bit) - maybe "Left Middle Right".
I hope for better resolution ...
Do such a "half / third of schema" and show it in pinside (the same way you have showed in post-8) -> I will make myself a copy and "try to work on it" -> Maybe I can create the copy "YOU will donate to ipdb" - or I can tell You "how to create the copy YOU donate to ipdb".

For the rest of my Sunday I run around a bit - next post to come: 10 / 12 / 20 / ?? hours. Greetings Rolf

Hi "Daughter and father" (Hole)
thank You for the JPG's of Your schema (post-10). I put the single JPG's together, made me ONE document (complete schema) and printed this. From now on I will refer to "Schema Four Roses". "Words to Your schema": I sent a personal message.

You used the Lock-Relay to power "Bumpers, Slingshots, Flippers" - and You can activate them using a Jumper-Wire, great. I strongly advice: Do not jumper for Flipper-(Finger)-Action. You did it once, they work, fine, do not do it again. Do "look at / work on / jumper" Flipper-Finger-Coils ONLY: When a specific problem "Flipper(s)" is "to be treated". The reason (for my advice) is: The Lock-Relay is built for "constantly pulling for hours". Other RELAYS can pull for "one to two minutes" WITHOUT overheating / burning. Flipperfingers are constructed: "The strong-pulling-powerwinding in the Coil" can only have power for one to two seconds" - if the powerwinding has current for more than 1-2 seconds: it will overheat, burn, make a short, blow a fuse --- and You must by costly new Flipper-Coils.
(((At end of travel (flipperfinger) a switch does open. When this switch is open: Current can no longer (no more) take the "Shortcut" through the "former-closed switch" - NOW (switch is open): Current MUST flow through the Power-winding AND THROUGH a second winding - Result: The TWO windings (behind) have more resistance and "more resistance in there" means "less Amperes can flow" means "coil cannot overheat")))

A "normal" relay (1 Point-Relay, Red-Target-Relay and all the other relays and Stepper-Unit-Coils) can "Stay pulling" for One (to two) minute. MANY relays have a "Self-Hold-Switch" to establish "Self-providing current through this Self-Hold-Switch forever". And AFTER the pin has done all the work needed (think of: 500 Points shall be given - means 5 times 100 points must be given): ANOTHER "Switch in that Self-Hold-Circuitry" does open -> "Coil on pulling relay" looses power, quits pulling and by that opens "its / own Self-Hold-Switch". The "ANOTHER Switch" can close again - the relay will not pull (as its / own Self-Hold-Switch has opened).

Your pin does NOT run OK. "ANOTHER Switch" might not open - the Relay has established "Self-Hold-Circuitry forever": YOU must unplug the Line-Cord and cut current (so the Relay quits pulling, has no electricity - and can cool-off). Either be aware of "Relays are pulling constantly" - or simple: Plug-in the Line-Cord, do some tests, after one (two) minute: Unplug the Line-Cord and let the coils cool-off.

The wiring (24 Volt AC) in For Roses: At schema-F2 is the "Power-Side of the Transformer" -> wire-color-15X (means Red-White (this color is used more than once in the pin) -> Fuse-Holder-15-Amperes -> the fuse -> wire-color-80 (straight Black) -> to a coil -> to another coil -> -> -> (all coils) -> (example) at schema-G20 is "Left Jet Bumper Coil".
OK, Power gets to "lug (wire-Black) on Left Bumper Coil" -> through the coil -> wire-color-92 (Grey-Blue) -> "Switch on Number-1 Bumper Relay" -> wire-color-10 (Red) -> -> the switches in question (on Tilt-Relay, on Game-Over-Relay, on Reset-Relay" -> wire-color-10 (Yellow) -> Transformer-Returning-Side-Lug-YELLOW.
When the wiring is good and all switches are closed: "Left Bumper Coil" is in a closed circuitry - the Coil pulls ...
Summary - A good / safe circuitry is: Transformer-Power-side -> FUSE -> to the coil (consumer) -> through the consumer (could be the Test-Light) -> wire -> (Switch to operate) -> wire -> Transformer-Return-Side. A FUSE and a CONSUMER are in the circuitry.

Please do this test: "Start the pin" --- take your wooden stick and push onto the "anchor plate of No-1 Bumper-RELAY (probably mounted on underneathside of playfield, near the bumpers) and then let go.
Does the Left Jumper "fires" ?
AAA: Yes, and it keeps-on pulling -> unplug the Line-Cord.
BBB: Yes it fired and quits firing (no longer pulling) -> feel good.
CCC: No, no action - no pulling.

I assume You have CCC. Unplug the Line-Cord. Look in the pin for the 15 Amp Fuse. Use the Jumper-Wire (not the Test-Light), clip-on the Jumper-Wire at "Fuse-Holder where Wire-Black is soldered-on !!!". Clip-on the other end of the Jumper-Wire at "Left Jet Bumper Coil, side "Wire-Black is soldered on !!!". (Do NOT do the test If You are not 100% sure !!!)
You now have the Jumper-Wire clipped-on th garantee "there is connection "Fuse <-> Coil" on the Power-side". Plug-in the 110 VAC Power and start a game and do the test (wooden stick).
You still have "CCC" ? ->

Let the Jumper-Wire clipped-on. Unplug the Line-Cord. Take another Jumper-Wire and clip-on onto "Left Bumper-Coil, lug (the other side): wire-Grey-Blue is soldered-on". Run the wire NEAR the transformer (lug "wire-YELLOW") is soldered-on. Put the Gator-clip NEAR there, NOT TOUCHING ANYTHING. Plug-in the Line-Cord and start a game.
NOW (caution) grab the Jumper-wire (You hold the insulated wire !) and tip the blank Gator-Clip onto "Transformer-Lug-YELLOW". As long as You "tip-on onto that lug": The "Left Jet Bumper" does fire. Does it ? (((After 1-2 minutes of testing: Unplug the Line-Cord)))
Please report. Greetings Rolf

Hi "Daughter and father" (Hole)
the tests I have written about are worth doing. Instead of "wading through all of them": You first can try (maybe we are lucky) the following:

To me "in question are the switches on Reset-Relay / Game-Over-Relay / Tilt-Relay".
If the transformer is at a "place hard to get at" - (unplug the Line-Cord): I would take a10 feet Jumper-Wire, I clip on at Transformer-YELLOW (good / solid clip / grip) - I carefully lead the Jumper-Wire around the relays and units (no hindering of movement of relays etc.) - I lead the Jumper-Wire through the open Coin-Door into "the open". I put the gator clip into a paper bag / plastik bag / enveloppe (that clip is insulated).

(Your Four Roses) I look at the Tilt-Relay - it has a Make-and-Brake Switch: 3 blades, the middle blade touches an outside blade (state-A, relay does not pull) - ONLY having contact with this outside blade. When the relay is pulling / has fallen: The middle blade moves away (no more contact) moves further -> middle blade now has contact with the other Outside-blade (state-B, relay does pull). This "Make and Brake Switch on Tilt-Relay" is schown at schema-C-8. The schema says: The middle blade has "color J" - that means a short BLANK (Jumper) wire (I guess: The Game-Over-Relay is also there). One Outside blade has a wire-color-85-Black-White soldered-on. The other Outside blade has a wire-color-RED soldered-on.
Take another long Jumper-Wire and clip-on at "Solder-Lug-RED. (good / solid grip ?) - take the Jumper-Wire (around relays and such) into the open and insulate (paper bag).

Plug-in the Line-cord and start a game. When the pin comes to "idle": Take the two Jumper-Wires out of the paperbags - You hold the wires (insulated) -> clip the two Gator-Clips together -> try bumpers and slingshots on the playfield.
Using the two Jumper-Wires You have made a "temporary, on/off switchable" Jumper from Transformer-Lug-YELLOW (all the way) to "Lug-RED on Tilt-Relay (the place where many relays / coils are connected-to)".

Try this and prove me "right" or "wrong". Greetings Rolf

Hi "Daughter and father" (Hole)
about "tests": Further down in this post, first some

Theory "Jumper-Wires". A "Simple Jumper-Wire is: A Gator-Clip -> (10 feet long) wire -> a Gator-Clip. A "De Luxe" Jumper-Wire is: A Gator-Clip -> a wire -> a "Door-Bell type of Switch" -> a wire -> a Gator-Clip. A "Super De Luxe" Jumper-Wire is: A Gator-Clip -> a wire -> a fuse -> a wire -> a "Door-Bell Switch -> a wire -> a Gator-Clip.
People are lazy / sluggard (example: me) - they say: I do not make me a "(Super) De Luxe" Jumper-Wire. I use a simple Jumper-Wire, I make sure "The fuse in the pin is in my "established jumpering", my hand holds the "insulated wire near the blank Gator-Clip" and with my hand I activate a "switch": I move the Gator-Clip onto "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" ("Switch" is closed) - I move my hand away ("Switch" is open again).
Why do I use TWO Jumper-Wires: Think of a "wire has broken" on the "Power-side-Connection (Transformer <-> Coil) AND also a "wire has broken" on the "Returning-side-Connection" (...). If I would use ONLY ONE Jumper-Wire: I'd jumper one broken wire - but the second broken wire inhibits "full connection". Then I'd move my only Jumper-Wire to the other side -> the "one broken wire" inhibits "full connection".
I test with two Jumper-Wires and the coil fires: I take away the Jumper-Wire "Power-Connection" and test "One Jumper-Wire Returning-side". "Result Coil fires" = "Wiring in the pin, connection Powerside IS GOOD". "Result Coil does not fire" = "Wiring in the pin, connection Powerside is NOT good, I must concentrate on connection Powerside (somewhere there a wire has broken).

"New Tests"
Take away "Jumper-Wire Powerside (Fuse-Holder-Black <-> Bumper-Coil-Lug-Black). Clip-on a Jumper-Wire on Coil-Lug-Not-Black (at Grey-Blue). Start a game -> pin comes to idle -> move by hand the other Gator-Clip onto "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" and immediately afterward: move the Gator-Cip away from the Transformer-Lug. Do it again. Does the bumper fires / let go / fires / let go ? If so: We can say: "In the pin, the Power-Side wiring IS GOOD".

Problems to find the "Switch on Tilt-Relay". We can use some other place instead. Look in the schema at C-8. I wanted You to clip-on at "Switch on Tilt-Relay-color-Red". (start a game -> idle -> tip on Transformer-Lug-Yellow). Lets find another place for to "clip-on".
Look at C-8 -> -> C-21. The wire-Red runs a long way and wire-Red has NO "Switch in between".
For to clip-on the Gator-Clip: We can use "any point" in that long (red) wiring, examples (D-9): "Lug-Red at Switch on 1 point relay" - or (D-9) "Lug-Red at No-1-Red-Roll-Over-Switch" - or - , - or - ... at the end at D-21: "Lug-Red on Right-Flipper-Switch". Lets use this switch.

Look in the pin, near the player, the "push button for the right flipper": One Lug has wire-color-86-Black-Brown soldered-on. The other lug has wire-color-10-red soldered on.
(((We do not test (with) the Flipper-Finger-Coil, we only use the easy-access-Lug-Red on the Push-button)))

"Test QQ" - Unplug the 110 VAC Main-Cord. Clip-on a Gator-clip at "push-button (right flipper switch) Lug-Red. Run the Jumper-Wire NEAR Transformer-Lug-YELLOW. Plug-in, start a game -> pin idles -> move the Gator-clip onto transformer-Lug-Yellow (a tenth of a second), if something fires: stop the test and report.
I assume: Nothing happens -> Move the Gator-Clip (a half of a second) ... a second ... two seconds. Still nothing happens -> clip-on the Gator-clip onto Transformer-Lug-Yellow PERMANENT.
Now do "testing features" - with the wooden stick push onto "anchor plate of 1 Point-relay". With Your hand imitate: a ball rolls here and there - closing playfield switches, activates bumpers.
Do You have some reaction ? Please report.

Have Your eyes and ears open - if a relay or a bumper sticks: Unplug the 110 VAC Main-Cord.

If the pin shows no reaction at all (Test-QQ): Unplug the Main-Cord and establish "permanent Jumpering" "Fuse-Holder-Lug-Black" <-> "Lug-Black on Bumper-Coil". Then do "Test-QQ" again.
(((Think of: "Theory Jumper-Wires" - there might be TWO broken wires (power-side AND return-side)))
Greetings Rolf

Just addin my 2 cents worth here, have you gone through the pin and tightened all the switch stacks?
cleaned/adjusted any switches if needed. cleaned/lubed the step units before you started troubleshooting?
cleaned/lubed score reels and adjusted switches on reels?
also, the switch in though #10334, looks to be loose from the lever, have you repaired that?
and, the jet locking on, have you chked the pop switches for correct function?
I don't have that pin, but that is the procedure I follow before troubleshooting any EM.
Rolf is the man here, he will get you goin again.

Hi Dr_of_Style
thanks for the flowers. Facts are: I have never had a look into an old Williams pin. I put the snippets of the schema (post-11) together using MS-Paint and paint.net - result: A complete schema I can use ...

Hi Teamworkers
it is fun to work on a pin AND make some progress. You got nice results. I would like to co-work on a pin - thoughts to discuss, splitting a "test to do": "I do this / look at in the Backbox" - "You do this / look at in the cabinet (or on the playfield)."

If I do not fully understand a sentence You wrote: I MUST ask (to get a 100% understanding) - it would be awful You write "ABC" and I understand "UPZ".

Tests (post-16 and -17): The pin shows action, great. I'd LIKE You to use TWO Jumper-Wires and make a comfortable situation (for starting testing): Jumper-Wire-A comes out of the pin (open Coin Door), the Gator-Clip (Jumper-Wire-A) "in the open" is insulated (paperbag), Jumper-Wire-B comes out ... insulated (paperbag). (((This way you easily can take down the playfield and imitate "Ball rolls here and there")))
"Description-Alpha***" You start a game -> -> pin comes to idle / NO Relay (and such) pulls / sticks. NOW You connect (in the open) Gator-Clip-Jumper-Wire-A PERMANENT with Gator-Clip-Jumper-Wire-B -> STILL: NO (!!!) Relay (and such) pulls / sticks. With the Gator-Clips (permanent) connected: You do tests on the playfield / in the cabinet / in the backbox. At the very moment a Relay (Score-Reel / Unit) CONSTANTLY (FAULTY) pulls / sticks: You pull the main power cord - and we talk about / look for THIS problem / fault.

(Unplug the main power cord), clip-on Jumper-Wire-A on / at Transformer-Lug-YELLOW (solid / secure clipped-on), then move Jumper-Wire-A around relays / units (no hindering of movement) through the open coin Door into the open and insulate the Gator-Clip (paperbag).
Then clip-on Jumper-Wire-B on / at "right flipper-switch-Lug-RED" -> move the wire into the open and insulate (paperbag).

Plug-in the main Power-Cord, start a game -> idle. NOW You put together "for a half of a second" the gator-clips "Wire-A" and "Wire-B", then open the connection.
"Important question***" - In the Backbox / in the Cabinet / underneath-side of the playfield: Is a relay / unit / Score-Reel pulling / sticking ? If the answer is "Yes": We MUST find the cause and fix that.
In a pin "fully running": we can make the "written above" -> the pin does not show a reaction. "Only / not until" us imitating "Ball rolls here and there".

Post-17, result of Test1: Fine, the bumper fires "as long as You make "Jumpering / connection" - it stops firing when you open the connection.
Result of Test2: I must adjust "Description-Alpha" a bit. At the very end of the "Start-Procedure" a "couple of things" may happen (depending on the model / pin). Your pin does not run 100 % - when You do connect Clip-on-Jumper-Wire-A and Clip-...B: These "couple of things" happen (late) now. I adjust "Description-Alpha" to: In a 100 % running pin the "couple of things" happen in the Start-Procedure - in Your "faulty running" pin these "couple of things" may happen "just after You made connection "A" and "B"".
So I also adjust my "Important question***" - ... You connect wire-A and wire-B -> a relay may pull / a stepper may step - BUT - shortly afterwards: Relay STOPS Pulling / "Coil on Stepper-Unit" QUITS Pulling. You keep-on connecting wire-A and wire-B -> NOTHING is pulling / sticking.
If (if) SOMETHING IS pulling / sticking: Report.

Some "Theory of pin-logic" / then "having a closer look at results of tests in post-17" ...

"Schema is drawn in a well defined state" - Think of the lifetime of a game: You plug-in the Main Power-Cord -> You start a game -> the pin does resetting (Score-Reels, Relay-Bank etc.) -> Balls fell into the trunk -> You lift the first ball up onto the Shooter-Lane (NO launching of the ball) -> You UNPLUG the Main Power-Cord (relays loose electricity and quit pulling): THIS is what the schema shows. (So the Tilt-Relay is resetted (no tilt), the Game-Over-Relay is set into "state ready for playing", all relays in the Reset-Bank are resetted.)

"Schema is an abstract drawing" - it does NOT show "reality in pin, the wiring" - it is drawn beautyful: Wires move in rectangular ways, (Power) Wire-Black goes straight from left to right, short wires (Black) branch-off and go to Lug-Black-on-Coil-of-Relay(s) - in the pin, reality : a wire-black comes (from Transformer-Power-Side) to Lug-Black and a wire-Black goes further to the next coil etc. The schema is an abstract. True is: I see a wire from "A" to "B" in the schema - in the pin: "A" and "B" ARE connected - maybe "A" is in the backbox and "B" is in the cabinet, the Jones-Plug (in the connection "backbox <-> cabinet") is NOT drawn in the schema.

"Result of test2 (post-17)": Do they "fire and let go" <-> "they fire constantly" ? "Fire constantly would be a severe fault" , "fire and let go" is to me "a minor fault , a fault but not harmful".
Please write about "fire and let go" <-> "fire constantly (pulling)".

Lets look in the schema: At F-11 I see the "Coil M29-1100 on the Red-Advance-Relay". look down a bit: a knot. From this knot I see wires going to the left / to the right / downwards. I follow (looking at one line / looking at the next line / and so on): I CANNOT get down to the loooong-wire-Yellow. Always a "Switch drawn open" hinders connection (down to YELLOW).
As a "working-hypotheses" I say: (Maybe) one of the switches "drawn at D-10" is "FAULTY-CLOSED" and allows / makes "FAULTY CONNECTION". Candidates are (D-10): "Left Bottom Roll Over Switch (playfield)", "Top Roll Over Switch (playfield)", "Red bumper SWITCH (to look for, later).
So check the top of the playfield: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=64603&zoom=1 I assume: On the underneath-side of the playfield, at position "Yellow and Red advance" are TWO switches -> is one of them "FAULTY-CLOSED" ?
So check the Left Bottom playfield (underneath the playfield), http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=64601 : "Red Advance" -> Switch FAULTY-CLOSED" ?
So check the "Red Bumper Switch" - I do not know the pin - I BELIEVE (maybe I am wrong): here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=64601 -> way up on the right, the "Passive Red Bumper", look underneath -> Switch FAULTY-CLOSED ?
I might be right with my "working-hypothesis" <-> I might be wrong - You find out about, please write.

"After results test2 (post 17) ... Things that work": I hope things do NOT "start-pulling-and-then-stick" - I hope: You can establish "PERMANENT CONNECTION jumpering transformer-Lug-YELLOW <-> Right-Flipper-Switch-Lug-RED" - You then can activate (by hand) things on the playfield -> relay(s) pull AND LET GO. Please write about "Things that work ..." (((Do not get upset - I MUST ask to fully understand Your writing))).
Greetings Rolf

Sorry I didn't read everything but check the kick-off switch on the bottom panel. If it's jammed closed when you try to start a game it will immediately go to game over. Actually it will power-off but maybe that's what you meant.

Hey, I sent you a text. Respond later on, maybe we can talk on the phone and I can walk you through some of the things. I am going to another repair job after 5 CST so you might miss me.

Hi
great, You made progress.
A problem on its own - The Lock-Relay, a fully running Four Roses:
You plug-in the Line-Cord -> Lock-Relay does NOT pull. (You have credits on the counter) You push the Start-Button (in the schema named "Replay Button Switch") -> among others -> Coin-Relay starts pulling -> therefore closes (among other Sws.) a Switch -> Transformer-110-VAC wiring gets current -> produces 24 VAC current -> Lock-Relay gets a closed Circuitry through "closed Knock-Off-Switch" -> Lock Relay starts pullling -> (among other Sws.) closes Switch(es) on the 110-VAC-Power-Side -> Transformer keeps on sucking 110 VAC, therefore keeps-on delivering 24-VAC -> therefore LocK-Relay keeps-on pulling TILL You unplug the Main-Power-Cord / You hammer upwards onto the bottom-panel of cabinet and so open the Knock-Off Switch.
Slightly different: You throw-in a 25 cent coin -> Coin-Relay starts pulling -> -> ->

Hole, look at schema-D-1 / -2 / -3, E123, F123, G123: Start at schema-E-1: Power-cord A60 -> FUSE -> B21 -> switches / relays / the 24-VAC side: Lock-Relay and switch.

REMEMBER / CONSIDER - ALL SWITCHES ARE DRAWN (in the schema) "Relay has no power and therefore is not pulling" as soon the Lock-Relay gets current: Lock-Relay starts pulling and therefore its switches move - YOU must think the "Switch has changed" INTO the schema.

Good is: You plug-in Main Power-Cord (Lock-Relay does not pull) -> You throw-in a coin or push the Replay-Button -> Lock-Relay starts pulling and STAYS PULLING (until You unplug the Main-Power-Cord).

New problem 1-Point-Relay sticks: here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=64601&zoom=1 candidates are "Switches behind a rubber" on the sides (actually all over the playfield). Grab the rubber with two fingers and pull a bit towards "Center of Playfield". Push a stripe of paper in between the two blades of the switch (the paper does insulate / guarantees: THIS Switch is open). Do it on all switches -> start a game -> If the 1-Point-Relay does still "faulty-pulling constantly": You have not yet found the fault.
If the 1-Point-Relay does not pull: Pull-out a stripe of paper -> then the next stripe -> then the next -> as soon the 1 Point-Relay starts "faulty-pulling": You have found the Troublemaker-Switch.

I would like to have this: Plug-in Line-Cord -> start a game -> Lock-Relay pulls (forever) -> pin does some reset -> pin comes to idle -> You connect the bare ends of the Jumper-Wires in the open" -> nothing happens, nothing is pulling - the pin idles*+*+* -> THEN You make (by hand) some points on the playfield.
Until You have reached idle*+*+* : I would like to look for the cause of "strange thing happens".
BECAUSE: With the two Jumper-Wires (connected): We simulate "through three switches (on Reset-Relay / Game-Over-Relay / Tilt-Relay (schema-C-7 / -8)) there is connection.

And, when you have reached idle*+*+*: I would like to concentrate on "repair of these thress switches for to "not longer have to use the Jumper-Wires".

Please write about "Why / what do we not reach idle"+"+"" (Relay pulling / Motor running / whatever behaves strange).
Greetings Rolf

Hi teamworkers
congratulation - Courtney found the cause of a "tricky / mean fault" (I do not like Score-Motor problems). Glad to read "soldered-on".

"Ball-Release-Coil constantly firing": (((One of the reasons I hesitaded to "start giving tips" is the "GAME-Relay" - I never had to deal with such a relay - I do not understand "what is it for" - "when does it move" -> I must do some guessing - I do not like giving advices on the Base "I guess".)))
OK, the Ball-Release-coil does constantly fires. At schema-G-19 is the coil, at D-19 I see a "Switch on Game-Relay - drawn close.
As soon as the pin has made the reset (You now make the "Jumper-connection" / in reality: At end of RESET the Reset-Relay quits pulling and so the "Connection through our "3 trouble switches , schema C-7, C-8" is established) as soon as current can flow the Ball-Release-coil fires UNTIL something lets the Game-Relay pull -> Game-Relay pulls and opens its switch -> Ball-Release-coil looses connection and let go.
I GUESS / assume: "Game-Relay inactive (not yet fallen): The machine tells the "Brain of the pin": The game / play has NOT YET "really" startet.
I GUESS / assume: "Game-Relay active (has fallen): The machine tells the "Brain of the pin": The player has launched a ball, he makes points - NOW the game REALLY has started.
(((And when a mad / crazy / angry player starts a game and (when pin is resetting) bangs a tilt -> Tilt-Relay falls -> activate Game-Relay -> THIS game has REALLY started - and (then) he made a tilt))).

The coil on Game-Relay is at schema-G-9. When Game-Relay is reset (not yet fallen): Its switch (schema-F-9) therefore is closed.
If you bang a tilt -> Tilt-Relay fells and switches its "Make and Brake (three blades) Switch (schema-C-8)" -> connection to the GAme-Relay -> Game-Relay fell / falls.
OR: You play a ball -> make one pint and the ball hits a bumper -> No-2 Bumper-Relay also gets active -> Game-Relay falls / fells -> telling "Hey Brain of the pin - game HAS REALLY STARTED".

Quick and dirty temporary solution To stop the Ball-Release-Coil from constantly pulling: (Start -> Reset -) idle -> take a wooden stick and push onto the anchor-plate of Game-Relay -> let it fell / fall -> Ball-Release-Coil should stop pulling (do You get this result, no longer pulling ?)
More "time consuming, but You should do": Activate the Center-Bumper -> this should activate the No-2-Bumper-Relay -> the 1-Point-Relay becaus of these two activated) -> Game-Relay should fall / fell. Look at schema-DEFG-20 (No-2-Bumper-Relay), look at schema-DEFG-18 (1-Point-Relay).

Faulty pulling 1-Point-Relay: You gave a VERY important information: The 1-Point-Relay is NOT pulling at the time "You make Jumper-Connection" - 1-Point-Relay gets active (You make a point) - but after that: It "faulty-sticks" - (Question: Does the 1-Point-Score-Reel ALSO sticks ? (I assume it does)). VERY important information -> do not look no more for "Stuck-Playfield-Switches".

Quick and dirty - Try: sneak-in a stripe of paper (for insulation) into the "Self-Hold-Switch*** on 1 Point-Relay" and report about results.
Self-Hold-Switch*** - every relay that has a Switch*** : You see the Switch*** immediately in the pin: From Lug-on-Coil-Side-NOTBLACK there runs a short wire to a "Switch mounted on the relay": THIS is the Switch***
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: In post-9 I have written about Steve Furys Test-Light - Do You have such a Test-Light ? Nice to have and handy to use it for test for connection "A" <-> "B" in question.
OF COURSE: Do NOT use it on 110 VAC Power-Voltage-Wires.

P.P.S.: "Wire hanging down" - I will write about

Hi Hole
great, we have progress - You "did play a couple of games" (love to read this).

"Yellow advance Unit wacky": I smile when reading Your "made a temporary, part-of fix" - it reminds me of "Using Jumper-Wires to establish a connection - clumsy BUT can live with it".

"Small Bell": (Main Power-Cord unplugged) Can You move the plunger by hand ? Easy, smooth action ? wires soldered-on onto "Lugs on Coil" ?
Here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40519 I see "Large Bell" and "Small Bell" - I belive to see the "1-Point-Relay". There should be a connection "wire-color-71-Orange-Red" connecting "Lug on Coil of Small Bell" <-> "Normally-Open Switch mounted on "1-Point-Relay". The other lug on that switch has wire-color-10-Yellow soldered-on.
When You -> start -> reset -> idle -> the two temporary Jumper-wires have connection -> You can play -> NOW take a screwdriver (handle has Nylon / is insulated) and hold the tip of the screwdriver at the two blades of the "N.O.-Switch on 1-Point-Relay" (ONLY at these two blades !) and shortly afterwards take the tip of the screwdriver away. You made a LOCAL JUMPER CONNECTION (through the metal of the tip of the screwdriver touching both blades: You simulate "Switch is closed").
Does the Bell fires ?

I like to use the "tip of a screwdriver" for testing: On a Normally-Open-Switch that should be closed at a given / specific time: With my "Tip of screwdriver" I "close" that switch temporary. I use this testing quite often (The Nylon handle of the screwdriver garantees: NO current can run through my body.)

"Problem - A relay sticks", 1-Point / 10-Point / 100-Point / other- Relay - I like to see: The problematic relay has a "Self-Hold-Switch" (if it does not have: Do NOT read-on here). I can see the switch in the schema and I can see the switch "mounted in the switch-stack on the relay": A short wire runs "Lug on coil <-> Lug on switch in the switchstack of the relay". I have a GOOD look at this switch - is it SECURELY open when the relay is NOT pulling ??? To have this switch GARANTEED OPEN: I sneak-in a stripe of paper to have it (always) SECURE-OPEN***.
I then play many games -> AAA: The relay does (sometimes) stick (Problem still exists) -> the fault is elsewhere. BBB: The relay does NEVER sticks (Problem is temporary solved - due to the stripe of paper) -> I go back and check this "Self-Hold-Switch" again.

SECURE-OPEN***: The "Sneaking-in a stripe of paper" has two effects: CCC: It helps my find the cause of the fault, good. DDD: (The Self-Hold-Switch was mounted by the manufacturer for some reason - I disable that function -> the pin might not do 100% of "what the pin is asked to do".
My "Standard Example" - The Self-Hold-Switch on the 1-Point-Relay. Lets say: It takes 0.6 of a second for "plunger on the 1-Point-REEL" to travel its long way to (at the end of travel) hook-in a tooth behind a tooth on the Reel -> Coil looses current -> no more pulling -> a spring pulls the plunger back -> "tooth on tooth" makes the reel turn one position - the Point is truely given.
If (if) it would ONLY be "the target on the playfield closes a switch (to feed the Score-Reel)": If (if) the ball rolls away (and so the playfield-switch opens) after 0.4 seconds: The Plunger on the Reel would not be able to travel its looooong way -> no hooking "tooth on tooth" - therefore Point is NOT given.
So WITH the stripe of paper IN the Self-Hold-Switch on the 1-Point-Relay: "Grace shots" might NOT be rewarded by a "Point given on the 1-Point-Score-Reel". BUT: You are looking for the "cause of a relay is sticking" - You are not "playing and enjoying the pin".

(A long writing (again)) - as You are getting to "pin can be played": I would like to get rid of the (temporary solution "Two Jumper-Wires are coming through the Coin-Door into the open". This means: Lets look at the schema at C-7 / -8 / -9, the mounted "in series" switches on "Reset Relay", "Game-Over-Relay", "Tilt-Relay".
Lets inspect the "Normally-Open Switch on Reset-Relay", hving wires solderd-on "color-30-Yellow" and "color-76-Orange-Brown".
(Main Power unplugged). Unclip the loooong Jumper-wire at Transformer-Lug-Yellow, move that Gator-Clip and clip-on (good solid grip) onto "Lug on Reset-Relay-Switch-Lug-Yellow".
Start the pin as you are used to -> EEE: The reaction of the pin is "as You are Used to", FFF: "You cannot activate flippers / bumpers / playfield goodies".
"EEE" tells us: The wiring in the pin "Transformer-Lug-Yellow <-> Lug-Yellow at Switch on Reset-Relay" IS GOOD.
"FFF" tells us: The wiring ... IS NOT GOOD, something in there has broken.

If you have "EEE": (unplug the main power cord) Move the gator clip on the OTHER Blade (permanent, good grip) of the "Switch on Reset-Relay", Lug-76-Orange-Brown. Do the test again -> "GGG": The reaction of the pin is "as You are Used to", HHH: "You cannot activate flippers / bumpers / playfield goodies".
"GGG" tells us: The wiring in the pin "Transformer-Lug-Yellow <-> Lug-Orange-Brown at Switch on Reset-Relay" IS GOOD, means: The SWITCH WORKS WELL.
"HHH" tells us: The wiring ... IS NOT GOOD, something in there has broken.

Testing this way: Can You find the reason for "No connection through these 3 switches" ?
Greetings Rolf

Hi Hole
Yes, I also like to have "at least a bit of progress".
Yes, color of wires, identifying color of wires: Frustrating. When I look into a pin: Almost every wire is "muddy-brown-grey-yellowish" faded. "Red might have become Grey" - is that tracer Black or Blue or Green ? - Red or Orange or Yellow ?
AND on some schemas You can read (stamped-on): "Due to wire shortages beyond our control colors of wires used in the pin may be other than shown in the schema". AND: They might have used (by mistake) the wrong color - JUST one wrong color in ONE place - and (of course): THIS wrong-colored wire is "what we want to have a look at" ...

Many people do this, example schema-19-D /E,F,G - I am / we are interested in: A wire-color-71-Orange-Red runs from "Normally-Open-Switch on 1-Point-Relay" to "Coil on Small Bell". (((If the Bell is in the Cabinet AND the 1-Point-Relay is in the Backbox: The schema does not show a Jones Plug - in the pin, the Cabinet and the Backbox have a "bundle of wires" and there is a Jones Plug (so we can take away the Backbox) ))).
I look at the "Coil on Small Bell" -> do I see a wire on one lug having color "NOT-80-Black" ? - does that wire looks a bit like "Orange-Red" ? (maybe it does) -> I memorize that (muddy) color -> I look at ALL "NORMALLY-OPEN Switches on 1-Point-Relay" -> Do I see that same (muddy?) color on "ONE NORMALLY-OPEN Switch on 1-Point-Relay" ? -> I have a close look at THIS switch. When I know "there is a Jones Plug in that connecting wire" -> I check the Jones Plug for "That (muddy?) color" ? -> is the Jones Plug "good, clean" ? wires soldered-on ? is the plug plugged-in correct or with an offset ?

Good, Knocker and Bell(s ?) work. I believe: You can (doing some Extra-Work, Jumper-Wires to be connected, wooden stick to let the Game-Relay fell / fall) - You can play.
I am VERY interested in the results of testing "EEE / FFF / GGG / HHH" - I wold like to solve the Problem "Why do You have NO connection (after the pin has resetted) in between the three switches ? (on Reset-Relay, Game-Over-Relay, Tilt-Relay) - I would like to thake away the "permanent setting of the two Jumper-Wires".
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: I take a lot of helpful information from two internet-sites:
http://www.pinrepair.com/ -> down to "1930s to 1978 EM Pinball Repair Guide": http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/ -> down to EM Games: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair

Sometimes I prefer pinrepair - sometimes I prefer pinwiki

Hi Courtney and Father
to the "How to find a broken wire - get rid of the "two Jumper-Wires-into-the-open"": I made two JPG's using the schema You show in post-11. I put snippets together, I first made the larger JPG - and from that I made the smaller JPG. Maybe the smaller JPG is better for a print-out.

Lets say "Courtney does NOT know, what Fater and I know" - a gremlin has taken a scissor and has cut the Wire-color-J-Jumper connecting "Switch on Game-Over-Relay" and "Switch on Tilt-Relay" (in my JPG's marked "Gap, broken wire"). ALL conections in the pin are GOOD - ONLY the mentioned connection is cut.

She establishes"Jumper-Wire-Yellow (JY)" from "Lug-Yellow on transformer" into the open.
She establishes "Jumper-Wire-hooked-on on Right-Flipper-Switch" "JF" from that Switch into the open.
She starts a game -> reset -> idle -> she connects (in the open) "JY" and "JF", permanent - she can play.

Now, Coils that are connected (towards-transformer-Yellow) have direct connection to Lug-Yellow-on-Transformer - they end at "JY-1" and / or "JY2" and / or "JY3" and / or other places in the wires I have colored dark-blue / blue / light-green / green / violet.
Now, Coils that are connected ending on "my colored wires orange / red": They have connection through (orange / red) -> Jumper "JF" -> Jumper "JY" -> "Lug-Yellow on Transformer". Courtney can play.

She wants to find the "Gap / broken wire". She takes away "JF" (away from JF0) and clips on at "JF1 (Switch on 1-Point-Relay)". Father and I: We know where the fault is, we can predict: Courtney can play.

She smiles and "clip-on" "JF" onto "JF2 (Switch on Tilt-Relay)". Father and I: -> predict: she can play.
She clips-on "JF" onto "JF3 (the other Lug on Switch on Tilt-Relay), also named JY8" --- she can play.
She clips-on "JF" onto "JF4, JY7 (Switch on Game-Over-Relay)". Father and I predict: She connects "JY" and "JF" in the open - BUT she CANNOT play --- she (will) realize(s) "cannot play" - she says: The fault is in between "JF4, JY7" and "JF3, JY8".

She could have done it "The other way" - having clipped-on "JF" ALWAYS on "JF0". Changing / moving "JY" from "JY0" -> "JY1" -> "JY2" ... -> "JY7" -> "JY8" and then say: The fault is in between "JF4, JY7" and "JF3, JY8"

She could have done a combination - moving "JF" (then a test) , moving "JY" (then a test) etc.

The "written above" is theory - we do not know yet "where the fault is" - I only can say "do tests as written above".

JUST GUESSING: The (in my JPG's) wire-violet runs from "Switch on Reset-Relay" to "Switch on Game-Over-Relay". I assume: Reset-Relay is in the Cabinet (on the bottom) - Game-Over-Relay is in the Relay-Bank on the Playfield. So the connecting wire runs through a Jones-Plug (Reset-Relay (Cabinet) -> wire -> Jones-Plug -> wire -> Playfield-Game-Over-Relay) - so I am guessing / asking: Is the "Jones-Plug (connecting Cabinet and Playfield) "good" ? (clean ? / wires soldered-on ?)

Please do some testing - moving the "Clip-on-Points" to "JF??" / "JY??" and write about.
Also, please write about "features still not working" (((do You still must use the wooden stick to make the "Game-Relay" fell / fall ?))).
Greetings Rolf 4-Roses-Jumpers-large.jpg4-Roses-Jumpers-small.jpg

Hi Courtney and Father
to the "Ball Release Coil stays pulling UNTIL 1-Point-Target is hit": This is not a fault - this is what is wired.
Bally / Williams are generous: If (if) You loose a ball WHITOUT making any Point(s): The Ball is given to You - AGAIN THE SAME BALL. This is done in a (newer) 4-Player-Game with the "Ball-Index-Relay (telling the "Brain of the Pin": Hey Brain, the given Ball is REALLY in play"). (ON EVERY BALL !)
Four Roses is an old pin with 5 REAL Balls - This effect can be done ONLY on "First Ball" - play the first ball NOT MAKING ANY POINTS -> loose the Ball -> it will roll down into the trunk (it is given back to You) ...

(Maybe too early to write this (?): Itr was a pleasure to work with You - thanks for answering promptly.) If every "Problem" is solved: Please mark the TOPIC as "solved" - do we still have to use the two long Jumper-Wires ? (I am not sure about that).
Have fun, Greetings Rolf

Hi Hole
thanks for the flowers. I call myself an "Nostalgic" - NOT an "Collector". Starting in 2007 I bought my "then loved" pins (I heavily played in my youth). I have my pins, the pins run - I like solving problems - so I look at Your problems and I look at other peoples problems ...

You still need to use a Jumper-Wire "JY" from "JY0" to WHERE ? You write: "To Jumper-wire-70-orange. In "our area" I do see a connection "Switch on Game-Over-Relay, a Make-and-Brake-Switch, 3 blades" <-> "Switch on Tilt-Relay" - in the schema they say "color-J = (Short Jumper-wire, blank metal = NO insulation around the blank wire").
Does this means (?), look at post-33, JPG-large: You must jumper from "JY0" to "JY8 / JF3" ???
Or do You have to jumper from "JY0" to "JY7 / JF4".
Or do You have to jumper from "JY0" to "JY6 / JF5".
Or do You have to jumper from "JY0" to "JY5 / JF6".
Or do You have to jumper from "JY0" to "JY4 / JF7".
Or ... ?

In the Schema "JY5" <-> "JY6" - they say: Color-76-1 = mainly orange, little tracers of brown woven into the insulating fabric - (the "-1" means: Attention, color-orange-brown is used at several places in the pin).
Do You mean THIS wire ? Where exactly do You clip-on "JY" ? - "JY0" AND ON ???.
Please report.

You might have MORE than just one "broken-off" wire (the gremlins ...).
What happens, if You take away "JY" from "JY0" and clip it on at "JY1" and Courtney does testing ? The schema says: The "Knockoff-Switch" has a wire-30-Yellow soldered-on on one side, it has a wire-79-orange-grey soldered-on on the other side. USE side YELLOW ((if the Lock-Relay is pulling constantly - I assume it does: You also can use side Orange-Grey, if the Lock-Relay does NOT pull constantly: Please report)).

"Knockoff-Switch" is sometimes called "Kickoff-Switch" - Your pin does not have a Main Power Switch ? (maybe somebody has added such a switch).
Well, You do not want to play no more - You either unplug the Main Power-Cord OR You bang with your fist or with Your foot at a SPECIFIC place UPWARDS from underneath the Cabinet - You bang on the plywood -> a bolt jumps up and opens the "Knockoff-Switch -> "Coil on Lock-Relay" looses current, Relay lets go and opens switches on the 110 VAC side -> You "turned-off the pin". ...
Here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=481&picno=34315&zoom=1 towards the bottom of the picture - the round milky-white round Nylon thing, 3 screws: THE KNOCKOFF-Switch, hard to see: The bolt that does jump upwards (as You bang from underneath).
Also here: (my beloved "Shangri-La"): http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2110&picno=64764&zoom=1 about in the middle of the picture is a white rectangle (metal of the (NEW Williams Score-Motor)). Above and a bit to the right of the white rectangle: The Knockoff-Switch - see the Nylon thing with the three screws ?

WHAT happens, if You use "JY2, Switch on Coin-Relay, side color-Yellow) ? ... Use "JY3, Switch on Lock-Relay, side color-Yellow" ?
As soon Courtney cannot play: go back, try again - go forward, try again - You have found a problematic place -> please report.
Greetings Rolf

So you got it working then?

Hi Hole
I only can look in the schema - I only can write about color-XY as I see a color in the schema. In Your pin "Williams" might have used another color on a specific wiring.

Sometimes I am rude to the pin. I say "it is MY pin - I do what I want with it. I have a specific problem, I should unsolder a wire at "a place extremely hard to get at" - OR: I should clip-on a Jumper-Wire-Gator-Clip onto a "Lug on a Switch on a Relay" - extremely hard to get at / not room enough to have it securely clipped-on NOT hindering movement of the Unit, NOT making a "Micro-Short". (((How do I "solder-on again after testing at this hard to get-at place ???)))

Well it is MY pin. In "K-Mart (or such stores), Car-Departement, Car-Electrics" I buy nice "male and female plugs. They have a hole, I can put into that hole a bare wire, with a pair of pliers I can squeeze the plug -> the bare wire is fastened / cramped-on - it will hold-on in / at the plug FOREVER.

Instead of "unsoldering" a wire "off a specific solder-lug": I look at the wire -> about 1.5 to 2.0 inches away (from the solder-lug) I CUT that wire (old scissors). I take a cigarette-lighter and burn away a bit of the insulation (on both endings, on both sides). The bare wire I put into the "hole on the plug" -> I squeeze the plug -> the plug is mounted on the plug. I do the same on the other ending -> I can plug together "male and female" - I have "Connection as before". MOST of my work I can do with one hand.

These Car-Electric-Plugs come in "round" form - and they come in "flat-tongue" form. (((When I use the "round" form: I must make me a short Jumper-Wire having connected (each to each) "one female and two male" I sneak in the short jumperwire and I have original connection AND an outlet: The second male.)))

I looked all over the schema - I hope: "Have found ALL switches" ...
"Reset-Relay":
A Normally-Open-Switch, the "Self-Hold-Switch" (schema-F-3) with "wire-24-Blue-Green" and (maybe) "wire-51-White-Red" soldered-on. (There is a short connection "coil <-> Switch")
A Normally-Open-Switch (schema-F-3 / F-4) with "wire-18-1-Red-Black-(colorcombination-used-more-than-once" and "wire-19-Red-Grey" soldered-on.
A Normally-Open-Switch (schema-D-4 / D-5) with "wire-30-Yellow" and "wire-74-Orange-Green" soldered on (to let the Score-Motor turn).
(Then of course "Our-RR-Switch***") Normally-Open-Switch (schema-C-7) with "wire-30-Yellow" and "wire-76-Orange-Brown" soldered-on. I guess: TWO wires "30-Yellow", I guess "TWO or THREE wires "76-Orange-Brown".
Have I overlooked a switch in the schema (?) - is in the pin at "Reset-Relay" one MORE (2,3 more) Switch ? Please write about.

"Tilt-Relay"
A Make-and-Brake-Switch (3 blades) (schema-A-5) with "wire-51-White-Red on the middle blade" and "wire-50-White" and "wire-65-Brown-White" soldered-on. For to turn-on the Tilt-Light / cut Playfield-Lights.
(Then of course "Our-TR-Switch***) Make-and-Brake-Switch (3 blades) (schema-C-8), with "wire-J-blank-Jumper-wire" on the middle blade" and "wire-10-Red" and "wire-85-Black-White" soldered-on. I guess: TWO wires "10-Red" soldered-on.
Have I overlooked a switch in the schema (?) - is in the pin at "Tilt-Relay" one MORE (2,3 more) Switch ? Please write about.

Can You "clip-on" Jumper-Wire "JY" onto "Our-RR-Switch***" at "wire-30-Yellow" ?
Can You "clip-on" Jumper-Wire "JF" onto "Our-TR-Switch***" at "wire-10-Red" ?
And the do our "standard test" connecting "JY" and "JF" in the open ? What happens ?
If "No luck" - try:
Jumper-Wire "JY" is clipped-on at "JY-0, the transformer-lug" AND Jumper-Wire "JF" is clipped-on at "Our-TR-Switch***" at "wire-10-Red" -> what happens ?
If "No luck" - try:
Jumper-Wire "JY" is clipped-on at "Our-RR-Switch***" at "wire-30-Yellow" AND Jumper-Wire- "JF" is clipped-on at "JF-0 the Flipper-Switch" -> what happens ?
If "No luck": You have more than just one wire broken-off - somewhere -> further investigation is needed.

IF (if) You cannot clip-on where You want to clip-on: Consider buying such Car-electric Plugs.
Cut ONE "30-Yellow-wire" soldered-on - and / or - cut ONE "10-Red-wire" soldered-on and sneak-in "male and female plug(s) -> you now have a good place to clip-on the Jumper-Wire(s) "JY" / "JF".
The reason for "I cut such a wire 1.5 to 2 inches AWAY from the solder-lug": I STILL have a bit of "original-insulating-color-wire" soldered-on on the lug - a "New owner co come" will be grateful, he will grumble: "a plug is sneaked in, what for ? - but at least I see the SAME COLOR on both ends of the (sneaked-in) plug".
Greetings Rolf

Let me know what connectors you need photos of or where you need me to track it down. I am setting this game up on Sunday so I can finally get mine going. I'm sorry I haven't been a huge help. I have been gone working on a game literally every night since we started texting. I am driving an hour away tonight to fix a sit down racing game :/

Hi Hole
It is hard to believe - I (must) ask again.

The pin "works" when You have the standard set-up:
"JY" is hooked on "JY-0 (Transformer)" and the wire runs into the open.
"JF" is is hooked on "JF-0 (Flipper-Button-Switch)" and the wire runs into the open.
You start a game -> reset -> idle. NOW You connect in the open: "JY" and "JF" -> You can play.

Your very first description (post-43): JY Knockoff-switch JY-1 (no).
I was asking You to do:
Let "JF" as is.
***Unclip "JY" at "JY-0", take the Gator-clip away*** and clip-on "JY" at "JY-1" - and run the wire into the open.
You start a game -> reset -> idle. NOW You connect in the open: "JY" and "JF" -> You CAN NOT play ?

Sorry, I must ask - this is hard to believe. Please write (I might have to accept "cannot play").
By the way: When You start a game: Does the Lock-Relay "pull and pull and pull ..." (forever) ?
Greetings Rolf

Hi Hole
when I want to transport a pin and I do not have a Van - I borrow my neighbors handshifted Van. On the way coming home the clutch brakes down -> Did I brake the clutch and so must pay for a new clutch ?
In that metal angle (rotating target under the playfield) there must have been some tension / crack - sooner or later it will brake there - it happened to be sooner.

A puzzle / mystery to me: I ONLY know Score-Motors like this: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2110&picno=64764&zoom=1 - in the picture (Shangri-La) above the White rectangle.
Here (4 Roses) http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40517 I do not see a Score-Motor.
But here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=938&picno=40515 (in the middle of the picture) I see a thing - is THIS Your Score-Motor ? And so THIS has the "Playfield-Rotating-Target" mounted on top of IT (the Score-Motor) ? And the Rotating Target does NOT affect the functionality of the Score-Motor (Switches) - it simply takes advantage of "HERE is an axis turning sometime" - I (Rotating Target) ONLY use the "Turning of".

Important question: When the Score-Motor makes a "turn" - does it turn "90 degree" ("120 degree") "180 degree" ? When I look in the schema at B-14: I am tempted to say "90 degree". When I look at B-16: I am tempted to say "180 degree". IF (if) a "turn" is ALWAYS "180 degree": Two of these Targets NEVER can be hit - we see them "coming -> visible -> going" as the Score-Motor makes the 180 degree turn. So we could try to make a "fix for the eye" - with some 2 component glue in the broken rectangle - AND MOUNT THE ROTATING TARGET with an Offset of 90 degree -> the "broken target" is the one we see "coming -> visible -> going".
In Your picture (post-45) I cannot see if ALL FOUR mounted targets HAVE a wiring ...

I never had such a broken thing - what to do ? A): show that picture in a NEW Topic in the forum - asking for help. B): take the thing to a "Car-mechanic" and ask. C): Do the repair on Your own - drilling holes, using countersunk-head screws. Do the repair TWICE / symmetrical (also on the opposite (180 degree) side -> smooth balanced action.
My Shangri-La also has a rotating target (not mounted on the Score-Motor) - the "thing" on the lower end of the axis (to hold all mounted goodies "upwards" in place) was missing -> not beautyful - but working - My solution: I took a "thing used to mount waterhoses" ...

See my pictures - instead of using countersunk-head screws for mounting: Use a "U-form" goodie ...

Please write, if You can and want to proceed on "broken wire problem" (can You have the pin running - NOT having mounted the rotating target) ? -> we do proceed.
If You "cannot / want not": Please write something like "It will take some time to fix a broken part - will report back when ready again for "test / look for a broken wire".
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: If the "circumference needed" is looooooong - may want to buy TWO small "Water-Hose-Mountings" and mount "one after the other" - do some "extension" ?

4-Roses-broken-off.jpg

Shangri-La-Water-Hose-Mounting.jpg

Hi father and daughter
fine, the broken part will be "weldered" - pay attention to: No heat shall get to the yellow and red plastic-parts of the targets - if these (partially) meld: They will fall-off the target and You will have a new problem. If you can do testing "NOT having that rotating target mounted": Do some tests.

Lets have another look at the JPG's in Post-33. I came up with the construct "Father and I - we KNOW: ONE connection is faulty / broken - at "Gap, broken wire". Courtney does not know - she is testing".
First test as shown in the JPG's: JY is clipped-on on "JY-0" -> into the open. JF is clipped-on on "JF-0" -> into the open. She starts a game, she connects (in the open) JY and JF - Result: she can play.

She unplugs the Line-cord. She takes away JY from JY-0, she clips-on JY on "JY-1" and again takes JY into the open. She starts a game, put JY and JF together (in the open) -> She can play.

She unplugs the Line-cord. She takes away JY from JY-1, she clips-on JY on "JY-2" and again takes JY into the open. She starts a game, put JY and JF together (in the open) -> She can play.

She unplugs the Line-cord. She takes away JY from JY-2, she clips-on JY on "JY-3" and again takes JY into the open. She starts a game, put JY and JF together (in the open) -> She can play.

She walks through the pin - every new test has a "new clip-on Point" JY-4, JY-5, JY-6, JY-7.
As She clips-on at JY-8 --- Father and I predict: She CAN NOT play in that test (father and I KNOW: the Gap, broken wire hinders connection). And - sure enough: She CAN NOT play.

She smiles and clips-on JY again onto / at JY-7 (last point she can play) and takes JY into the open. She clips-on JF at JF-1 ... She can play.

She uses JF-2 ... She can play.

She uses JF-3 ... She can play.
NOW She says: The next "Clip-On-Point is JF-4". "JF-4" is the Point also named "JY-7".I will have the result "can NOT play". The Gap must be in between "JF-3" and "JF-4".

The "written above" is true IF THERE IS ONLY ONE Gap / broken wire. In reality: We do not know if there are several broken wires. We slowly proceed - as soon as we have "can not play": We can say: With the last test "We have jumped over one Gap" - we must fix that Gap - and we can proceed testing (-> next Clip-on-Point -> -> ). We might find 2,3,4,5 "Gap, broken wire".

Yes, last sentence in Your post-47: The Clip-on-point for the next test is shifted, test by test: One step (closer to what I suspect: "SOMEWHERE in between JY-4 and JF-2 there is no connection", maybe a switch is oxidated (no current can flow), maybe a wire has broken-off).
Greetings Rolf

P.S.: I hope I have written everything "correct" (the JY / JF / the numbers).