(Topic ID: 297305)

Alvin G Soccer

By AD72

1 year ago


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Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 1 year ago

I recently got an AG Soccer a few months ago and knew nothing about the company or history of the game. I like the head to head concept and want to know more about the machine. In troubleshooting some issues I discovered there is little information about this game so I figured I would start this thread. It is really fun to play once everything is running consistently. I hope others can get theirs fixed up through what I have and others have learned. Some NOS parts are available and some are really difficult to find such as the power supply board.

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#2 1 year ago

Here is the game I got. I bought it from Illinois and had it crated and shipped out to California. It was sold as "everything is working fine but it needs some bulbs and rubber replacement". The playfield and cabinet looked really good and I got to see it run through a facetime chat. When it showed up it looked even better in person. No fading at all. I have seen pictures of some where the red has turned to yellow orange. Also it has not been modified at all. Everything looked original.

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#3 1 year ago

The first plays were actually quite lame. The coils did not seem to have power and the system was constantly going through ball search. The flashers did not work. Also sometimes mid game it would stop and reset. I posted on a few troubleshooting sites on FB and here and got some advice to check the power supply. The power supply that came in the one I have is a PCA-019A. It is not what is in the manual listed as a PCA-006. I found the Punchy the Clown schematics on IPDB are correct to what I have. I checked the bridge rectifiers and caps. They all seemed to check out fine. Voltage was low on the 22 line (17VDC). 5V seemed to be fine (later I figured out it was not consistent). After a bunch of troubleshooting I decided to replace the caps (I will update what I replaced them with). I figured out what they were and ordered them from Digikey.

Here is the board front and back. There is definitely some signs of heat on the traces on the back. Anyone know what that that crusty diode value should be on the back?

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#4 1 year ago

I replaced the caps but kept on having issues with the game resetting. I got a meanwell 5vdc switching power supply so I swapped it in to see if the issue was still the power supply. The game came to life and has been playing consistently and is really fun to play.

I also swapped in a Meanwell 48vdc power supply for the coils. When I replaced the caps the power supply now reads 72vdc on what should be the 48v line. Should the 48V line be reading 72V? seems strange to me. Also I don't know if it was a result of the higher voltages but I started having a start up issue where coils would continue to fire like there was a short. I got an extra PCA-009 main board and have only been running it with the 48v from the Meanwell till I get an answer on the correct voltage for the 48v line. Anyone?

BTW - grounds are all connected together on the power supplies. I know that from doing my custom MPF game.

#5 1 year ago

Matt Elder should be able to chime in. He’s on most of the Alvin G threads and is pinside resident expert on these games. Great guy as well I’m sure he’ll be a big help

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from bonzo442:

Matt Elder should be able to chime in. He’s on most of the Alvin G threads and is pinside resident expert on these games. Great guy as well I’m sure he’ll be a big help

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the kind words. He did actually reach out to me already, and I must admit that I'm a bit behind on things here. Between work and me battling some health issues, I haven't had time or energy to get to the museum in a while to verify readings, or even reply to much as of late. Hopefully things turn around soon.

#7 1 year ago

Ooo that looks fun to play!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from MattElder:

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the kind words. He did actually reach out to me already, and I must admit that I'm a bit behind on things here. Between work and me battling some health issues, I haven't had time or energy to get to the museum in a while to verify readings, or even reply to much as of late.
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Hopefully things turn around soon.

Matt sorry to hear that my friend I wasn’t aware. Hoping for speedy recovery and back to your museum and what you love doing most, and of course all your Alvin G help on pinside

#9 1 year ago

MattElder No worries. Livelihood and health are far more important. I hope everything gets better. I appreciate all the posts you have made in the Alvin G history thread. Lots of good information there.

3 weeks later
#10 1 year ago
Quoted from AD72:

I replaced the caps but kept on having issues with the game resetting. I got a meanwell 5vdc switching power supply so I swapped it in to see if the issue was still the power supply. The game came to life and has been playing consistently and is really fun to play.
I also swapped in a Meanwell 48vdc power supply for the coils. When I replaced the caps the power supply now reads 72vdc on what should be the 48v line. Should the 48V line be reading 72V? seems strange to me. Also I don't know if it was a result of the higher voltages but I started having a start up issue where coils would continue to fire like there was a short. I got an extra PCA-009 main board and have only been running it with the 48v from the Meanwell till I get an answer on the correct voltage for the 48v line. Anyone?
BTW - grounds are all connected together on the power supplies. I know that from doing my custom MPF game.

I finally had time to get out to the museum and shuffle stuff around to get the glass off of USA Football and take a reading. (My Soccer-Ball is down right now, but USA Football is the same game in this regard). I'm getting 49 volts on the 48 volt line, so why yours is at 72 is very strange and obviously not good!

#11 12 months ago

Hmm. So I was also told that the 72VDC is what is expected because the input AC is 51v after rectification it is x 1.4. So I hooked it back up and played a few games. It worked well until now I have the right blue flipper always activated. I turn off the game and it goes back. Power back on and it immediately is fully activated and holding. So that means I must have killed a mosfet. I need to figure out what is going on with the 48v line. I replaced the C11 300uF cap. The bridge rectifier measures fine.

I am going to pull out the PCA-009 and measure the mosfet to see if it is toast.

8 months later
#12 3 months ago

Update. I changed the rectifier for the 48v line. It is still reading 72VDC but it is playing well without issues. I replaced the playfield lights with LEDs and it made a huge difference in appearance. I will be bringing it to the Golden State Pinball Festival on May 13-15th.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-2022-golden-state-pinball-festival-thread

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from AD72:

I changed the rectifier for the 48v line. It is still reading 72VDC

Not under load it will be higher.

LTG : )

#14 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not under load it will be higher.
LTG : )

Under load the voltage will decrease you meant - right? I have been meaning to set up a test load at work and measure the voltage drop under a draw of a few amps.

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from AD72:

Under load the voltage will decrease you meant - right?

NOT under load it's higher.

Under load it goes lower.

LTG : )

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