Alvin G Soccer


By ngreenup

1 year ago


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  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 weeks ago by MattElder
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PCA-006-List_(resized).jpg
pca-006-board-top_(resized).jpg
pca-006-layout_(resized).jpg
pca-006-schematics01_(resized).jpg
pca-006-schematics-02_(resized).jpg
pca-006-bottom_(resized).jpg


#1 1 year ago

My power board (PCA-006) has been hacked up. I would like to get it back to it's stock state. Can anyone help me with the voltages on the following components?

BR1 and BR2 - Full Wave Bridge Rectifier 25 AMP
BR3 - Full Wave Bridge Rectifier 4 AMP
C1, C3 - Capacitor 33,000uF - 25V
C2 - Capacitor 10,000uF
C4, C7 - Capacitor 22uF
C5, C6 - Capacitor 100uF

I am pretty positive C1 and C3 are 25V but the rest of the caps I am unsure. Same with bridge rectifiers.

pca-006-layout_(resized).jpg
PCA-006-List_(resized).jpg
pca-006-board-top_(resized).jpg
pca-006-bottom_(resized).jpg
pca-006-schematics01_(resized).jpg
pca-006-schematics-02_(resized).jpg

#2 1 year ago

C1, C3, C5 and C6 are all 25 volt. C2, C4 and C7 are 16 volt.

I don't remember what the bridges are offhand, but I replace everything with 600 volt. I can check these out later if need be. The setup on those bridges on your board is normal, and they might even be stock.... although work may have been done around them.

And for what it's worth, your board is actually a PCA-001 (as the manual drawing shows), and not a PCA-006. Early boards were printed PBPS-001. To make things even more confusing the parts list shows a board number of PCA-006, which was a later generation of board used in some other games.

#3 1 year ago

the bridges are starndard 200 volt 25 amp style. You can use that or go higher (in volts and/or amps.)

#4 1 year ago

Thanks for all the replies, between your help here and talking to others here is the revised list to make it easier for future searchers...

BR1 and BR2 - Full Wave Bridge Rectifier 25 AMP - Datasheet says 50-1000v and CFH verified 200v (thanks!)
BR3 - Full Wave Bridge Rectifier 4 AMP - Several sources said 400v but CFH verified 200 or higher
C1, C3 - Capacitor 33,000uF - 25V
C2 - Capacitor 10,000uF - MattElder Verified 16v (one in my board is 10v)
C4, C7 - Capacitor 22uF - 25v
C5, C6 - Capacitor 100uF - 16v

#5 1 year ago

What about the cap that is on the top of the board over BR1? This cap is not listed in the manual and its marked 330uf.

#6 1 year ago

i should mention that i was not talking about the 4 amp version in regards to volts. Personally i've replaced the 4 amp version with a 25 amp version. You have to get creative in the mounting, but you stand up the 25 amp version on it's side to mount it. That's what i did. The 4 amp original frankly is too low, not enough head room, so i went with the bigger one. if it's needed i could post pics i guess...

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from ngreenup:

What about the cap that is on the top of the board over BR1? This cap is not listed in the manual and its marked 330uf.

That one is 80 volt.

1 year later
#8 28 days ago

I am back to working on this game after a long needed break from it's frustrations.

I am pretty certain that the power supply is in order now. I am getting the proper voltages but when I turn on the game I still get almost nothing. GI comes on, no displays, some solenoid resetting very briefly, then a random pop or click from the speakers from time to time. Otherwise nothing else. Using a logic probe it appears there is action happening but all I did was make sure there was activity. The LED on the MPU is solid on.

I have two MPU boards. One it came with and one NOS. I have the ROM it came with and one I burned. I have tried both boards and both roms in all combinations. The result is almost exactly the same with the exception of some configs produce a millisecond of what sounds like game audio when you start it up. And one config there is no solenoid reset at all.

I have spent so long on this game, so have a couple friends that came over to help. Today I had a pinball repair pro come over to try his hand. He had no experience with Alvin G so we were starting from the ground up. Any links, videos, info would be appreciated. I actually have zero ideas of what to try next and the lack of info on these games online is proving to be the biggest barrier. I do have the schematics.

#9 28 days ago
Quoted from ngreenup:

I am back to working on this game after a long needed break from it's frustrations.
I am pretty certain that the power supply is in order now. I am getting the proper voltages but when I turn on the game I still get almost nothing. GI comes on, no displays, some solenoid resetting very briefly, then a random pop or click from the speakers from time to time. Otherwise nothing else. Using a logic probe it appears there is action happening but all I did was make sure there was activity. The LED on the MPU is solid on.
I have two MPU boards. One it came with and one NOS. I have the ROM it came with and one I burned. I have tried both boards and both roms in all combinations. The result is almost exactly the same with the exception of some configs produce a millisecond of what sounds like game audio when you start it up. And one config there is no solenoid reset at all.
I have spent so long on this game, so have a couple friends that came over to help. Today I had a pinball repair pro come over to try his hand. He had no experience with Alvin G so we were starting from the ground up. Any links, videos, info would be appreciated. I actually have zero ideas of what to try next and the lack of info on these games online is proving to be the biggest barrier. I do have the schematics.

If the LED is on steadily this indicates a CPU problem. The flash rate for the CPU LED is once per second when things are functioning normally. Alvin G & Co. programmed in flash codes, and steady on means a bad or missing ROM.

I know you said you already burned a new one, but at this point try to burn another brand new chip and see what happens and we'll go from there.

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