Not flippers, at least not like the ones I have. Possibly slingshot or for some other mech? Then again maybe I do not have any original flipper plungers/links?

Speaking of flippers does anyone have any idea on what to use in lieu of original flipper bats? I need 3 for my mystery castle.

Just wanted to let people know, you cannot use a stern led dmd in Alvin G's. I have tested it in Pistol Poker and Mystery Castle. When a large amount of the display is used dots will randomly blink on and off. I tried playing a game and quickly it did a full reset. It appears the 5v line is too stressed by this display.

Does anyone else get a loud hum from their woofer? I do not get it on pistol poker or AGBGOWT. Mystery castle almost sounds like a data east though.

I swapped sound boards between games. The hum does not follow the board. I noticed that the plug for the speaker wires was tarnished so I replaced it with an idc.

Any ideas what else to look at? I am tempted to try swapping speakers in case the woofer is somehow damaged.

Actually yes. My MC started resetting the other day. The 5 volt line would start out at 5.4 volts when you turned it on and then over time would steadily drop over a period of 15-20 mins to the point that the game would instantly reset. Pulled the board, swapped in the one from my pistol poker, hum gone. Since it is a simple board and I have a desoldering gun my plan is to shotgun it, 75 percent are caps anyways.

Also, I think I need to learn to say no.

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Any word on the al's spinning disk decals?

Very jealous of the head to head games. Also have to admire the dedication. Fixing up mine has been an eye opener for dealing with lack of parts.

Agreed demand for most boards will probably remain low. I have 3-4 of almost every board they ever made. They don't work, but I could always send them in for repair if needed. I plan on pairing down my machines and maybe letting pistol, punchy and maybe al's go so dunno what to do with all the extras.

That is in really great shape, congrats!

Word of the wise, do not clean the cabinet with anything wet. The paint will run/come off if you do.

Does anyone have detailed pictures of Dinosaur Eggs? I picked one up over the weekend. The handles to move the playfield are not attached to anything currently. It looks like there was post rubber tying them to the playfield at one point, but I do not know if it is correct or what size is needed.

Finally found some!

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Will try and snag some more then, did not know they posted on facebook thanks! Drat, they posted 10 flipper bats, pretty sure six of mine are from their ebay page as I got a lot of the coils/plungers in their facebook picture.

Sweet score!

Which bolts? The bolts that hold the bracket to the cab?

Shopping out my usa football. Does anyone know the list of rubbers needed? Would be the same as a ag football and ag soccer ball.

Is it tech a backglass? Its not a translite that is for sure.

Anyone with one of the head to head games ever run into an issue with the gate not working?

Red Gate Coil 12 does not work. This goes back to HP6 q32 on the cpu board. Board works fine in mystery castle for that mosfet, so its not the board. The coil has power. The wire brn/yl back to the cpu board for the mosfet has continuity. The power wire goes back to the powersupply board and has continuity. The two other coils (blue gate and gi relay) work and have continuity to the red gate.

My last guess is the coil itself has gone bad? I tried grounding the tab on the mosfet and it fails to fire the coil. Figure next step is to swap coils between gates and see if the problem follows the coil.

So you are crazy enough to overpay for the 8k one on here right now? Matt Elder can point out the proto differences. In the case of mystery castle do not see it adding much value. Blue spot targets are wrong, they should be clear and the size is different. Paint on the cab is cracked. Yellow spot is cracked badly. The spare drops are nice as they fail often. Its a fun game (one of my favorites), but 8k is awful.

Guys, production cabs were sometimes al's cabinets that were repainted, not a sign its a proto. I have one that was resprayed and its not a proto.

Not sure I see how it is winning the lottery? It is interesting, but typically early prod vs late prod doesn't matter unless there are major differences that get removed. B/W games are great examples of this since protos and samples often have major features that got cut for production.

Other games like say Full throttle where early games have wood around the window instead of artwork, its just sort of neat.

On the upside at least early MC games run later code. If it were an al's it would be worth less because you are stuck on earlier incomplete code. Games like that it tends to hurt the value as people tend to want the full code. Had an early cosmic carnival like that which was stuck on early barebones code.

Good for you I suppose?

I guess I see it differently. If you are willing to throw an obscene amount of money at something, eventually you will get it. If you had gotten a sweet deal on it, then I could see the lottery aspect.

So on mine I took I think a late 90s bw link and ground it down. The holes line up, but the alvin g is much thinner. Has worked for years without issue.

I prefer leds in my alvin g's. If nothing else it keeps the gi traces from burning off the board (have had two games where that happened)

Id be all over mystery castle ramps. Als doesnt seem to break ramps. I have a nos pp ramp just in case i get pistol again.

Doubt it. No reason to do low production games when there are titles that can potentially sell a thousand plus.

Given that ag soccerball and ag football had 500 each made, use all the same parts minus the exterior artwork they most likely share serial numbers.