I've used both....imo if your just adding leds the little boards are fine. But if a full restore is being done with new light sockets, altek then because I wouldn't to have to fix componts on the old bally board.....throw it in the pile of other outed boards I have

Start with the Comet Non-Ghosting LEDs in the inserts to see how well they work. Should not need them in the GI since the circuit is not the same.

I’ve tried leds in my older games and always end up going back to 44/47’s imo leds just don’t look right in the older games

Just do the GI first... no lamp board needed for that. See how the game looks. You only need to do the lamp board/resistors for the CPU controlled lamps.

Keep in mind with LEDs there are different brightnesses and color temperatures.

I like to use comet's sunlight 1 smd bulbs for GI.

The color temperature is in the middle of the warm white (yellowish) bulbs and cool/natural white (bluish) bulbs.

I put an Alltek in my Paragon. I used LEDs for the backbox and GI. Looks really good.

if you are handy with a soldering iron you can solder resistors across each lamp socket. 680 ohm seems to be in the sweet spot to get every SCR to latch even at around 5vdc feature lamp bus.

heck you can even install all the LEDs and only resistor the LEDs that flicker. High current LEDs and certain SCRs may/will not flicker. So you don't have to resistor every lamp. Use lamp test to weed out potential flickery bulbs as voltage and therefore current draw will be lowest on each SCR at that point (SCR less likely to latch).

If you don't want to resistor each lamp socket, the nvram.weebly, alltek, or mini boards are the easy/more expensive way out. 680 ohm resistor is just a penny of cost and your time.