(Topic ID: 181013)

Allied Leisure Eros One Cocktail, tilt after bumper strike.

By KnoxPins

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

I picked up a Allied Leisure Cocktail Pin (Eros One) that I am going through. I’ve done pretty well, and had some good plays on it.

It started acting odd. When I would turn it on, coin it, and press start, it threw a tilt immediately. I messed around with it and it played right for awhile longer. Then, it acted up again. I would coin it, press start, launch the ball, and as soon as it hit the thumper bumper it would again throw a tilt. That’s where it has stayed, I can’t do anything further with it.

I read all the tech tips on flippers.com several times. I have checked the pendulum and ball tilt switches. When I got it there was no ball in the tilt at first, I put a ball in it, I don’t think anything changed because of it. I took it back out.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks, and take care,

Tom

#2 7 years ago

Maybe one of the harness has a wire with the insulation worn through and shorting out? Can you unplug the wires that go to the tllt and chimes on the side to see if it still happens?

Does your machine have the separate power board w/fuses and LED's on the inside back of the cabinet? If so do you get all LED's lit? I am just trying to get one of these things to work. Looks like someone added a jumper on the back of my power board and I don't know if that was from the factory or a hack someone did later. Any pictures?

Robert

#3 7 years ago

https://www.flippers.com/ALI-Pinball_service.html

Im going to implement as many of Johns fixes as I can to see if that's the issue. He also said to check the voltage across the board.

Here is a pic, the R5 LED I sn't lit. If it's not lit after, I'll let you know. I'll update regardless. Could be a bad led, transistor, or low power.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#4 7 years ago

I'm glad I asked for a picture. I'll post a picture of mine shortly. My board is slightly different. There is no F5, D5, or R5 on my board. It has 8 fuses. F1-F4, F6-F9. The LED for F8 is out on my machine.

#5 7 years ago

If you break one of the clips holding the main PCB or any are missing I modeled that part up and you can print them in ABS plastic:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2092664

Robert

#6 7 years ago

No luck last night. I'm stuck until I get any ideas or advice. I'm actively asking around.

I read 4.89vdc across that capacitor. Close to 5, but not 5. You think that little difference is enough?

#7 7 years ago

If your 5V supply is the same as mine then it should have an adjustment on it. You may be able to carefully (slowly) adjust it to bump up the main 5V a bit at the PS so you get 5V at that mainboard. It may help.

#8 7 years ago

I have no idea how/where to do that. Is there an adjusting screw on the power board? I'm no expert, just an enthusiast that gets in deep from time to time.

#9 7 years ago
Quoted from KnoxPins:

I have no idea how/where to do that. Is there an adjusting screw on the power board? I'm no expert, just an enthusiast that gets in deep from time to time.

Attached is a picture of the 5V supply I have. I just fixed some cold solder joints on it and replaced the 1K trimmer at R10 V ADJ. Once installed I was able to get is adjusted for 5V under load.

They may have had different power supplies in these so you'll want to see if it matches and if it has a similar V ADJ control.

Robert

AL_5VPS (resized).jpgAL_5VPS (resized).jpg

#10 7 years ago

This is the main power board that I have. Slightly different than the one in your machine. I'm trying to find a match for my board to see if the wire on the back is supposed to be there as an update from the factory or yet another hack that I'll need to undo.

AL_PS1 (resized).jpgAL_PS1 (resized).jpg

AL_PS2 (resized).jpgAL_PS2 (resized).jpg

#11 7 years ago

I stuck a camera behind my boArd and looked (it's attached). No jumpers on the back.

I did find this on my power board. I'll make tiny adjustments and see what happens at 5vdc.

image (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpeg

#12 7 years ago

I cranked it to 5.01vdc, led4 started blinking. I don't know if it had been blinking earlier honestly. It played for a minute. Then I got greedy, tried to adjust to 5 on the nose... Tilt.. Up to 5.15... Tilt.. 4.45...tilt.. 5.3.. Tilt.

I ran an ac test across that capacitor, it was like at 10v, which I know is bad. According to Flippers, I need a new power supply or to rework the old one. I don't care if it's original linear or not, unless there is a reason to care. I read taito arcade 5v supply is compatible, so I may do that and see what happens.

Thoughts?

#13 7 years ago

I just reread on flippers, I measured AC ripple across the capacitor and not across the power supply. I'll give that a whirl later.

#14 7 years ago

I'd measure both the DC and AC at the power supply and the main board. It may be time to replace that large filter cap on the main board. Maybe some on the Power Supply as well. Sounds like you are making progress.

For the first time I was able to get mine to power up and play a bit. Have some issues to fix on the displays and some lamps but otherwise it plays. Not sure if the remaining issues have to do with the one LED out on my power board (LED is OK) or if that is meant to be out because of the way my board was modified.

#15 7 years ago

Let me restate something for clarity.

When I said before that (it's attached) I didn't mean the pic.

I mean my main power board is attached. I looked at that back of the same bird you have a jumper on and I do not have a jumper.

I'll measure at the supply tonight.

If it's off, I'll probably replace the linear with a switching, I found a thread on here where a guy did that to one of these.

If that doesn't work, I'll start looking into replacing capacitors. I'm not sure whether it'd be better to just send the whole thing to flippers or to replace them myself. As I said, I'm no expert, but I can do a lot.

I think I'm going to pull the ROMs and reseat them. Couldn't hurt, unless I bust one!

#16 7 years ago

I ordered a power supply, I'll continue to play with it until it arrives.

#17 7 years ago

I hope you new 5V supply fixes the issue with your game.

This evening I was able to get all the computer controlled lighting to work on mine. I finally tracked down the issue the remaining lights and it was an odd one. All the computer controlled lights were powered by their own transformer winding and that was the one with the LED that was out. I couldn't find any issues om the board. That is when I pulled out the transformer and checked it on the bench. My heart sank for a moment when the portion for those lights seemed open. All the rest were good. After a bit more digging I found that although the wire was soldered to the lug on the transformer somehow the solder joint broke loose from that lug to the winding of the transformer. It was all right there just had oxidation and and open. Scraped off the oxidation resoldered that lug and now all my lights are back!! That is an issue you may want to watch out for. It was the first time I have run into an issue like that on a transformer. I was worried for a moment and thought that would be one more piece to track down. Now just to rebuild my displays and it will be good.

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