Did you pull fuses and check with a meter ?

LTG : )

Have you tried grounding the coil to see if you have power?

Check your manual for the fuse list.

If you don't have one, download a PDF file of your manual at ipdb.org

Yes, looks like it - but did all the pops start working at once or sequentially? If all at once it sounds very unlikely that 3 transistors broke, so we're probably looking for a single point of failure.

I'm a rookie too-- but I think given the way they are arranged that since the rest of the parts in the column work that's ok (blind leading the blind!)

I don't know - I could not determine the fuse location. I'd triple check the fuses. Remove them from the board and test continuity with your multi meter.

This site might be useful to you: http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm

But doesn't that Q44 drive everything in the column, but everything else works??

Correct. If the Q44 was bad, nothing in that column would work. (if the issue was in the switches, and NOT the coils themselves.)

Op needs to grab a DMM and test the transistor (if they have not already done so)

Transistors do not partially work. IF other items in the column are working, then the problem is NOT on the switch matrix, or a wire is broken somewhere. Check for continuity on the wire.

Have you tested the switches yet?

You've completely verified that Fuse 3 (2.5 A) on the aux power board ( I think this is bumpers) works? They are fused apart from slings et al.

Wait a second -
Trying to figure out why everyone is talking about fuses when the op not only has said they checked the fuses, but actually has switch errors.

Start by removing all the balls from the game, run the switch test and write down all the numbers here.

To confirm your power to the pop bumpers are good and that your fuses for the supply for the pops are good, measure for solenoid voltage at the pop bumper coils with your meter. Let us know what that voltage is, or if you need instruction in how to do that.

GL

^^^^exactly...

My first guess would be you have a broken wire in the switch matrix, where it enters the first of the 3 pop bumper switches. Have a look there, and tug on the wires going to each of the bumper switches--don't confuse these wires with the wires going to the bumper coils.

so the switches associated with the pop bumpers do not activate, this is a start!

Since you said the Grn/Org wire has continuity from the board to the end of the column, I will assume/guess the switches need adjustment and/or cleaning

Go into switch edge test, and push down on the pop bumper skirt. Does it activate the switch at all?

If no, pop the game open, remove the balls, and put the pf up. Push down again on the skirt, while looking underneath. When you push down, do the switch edges make contact at all?

If no, turn off game and adjust, and clean the contacts on the switches (A old business card works great for this!)

Go back into switch edge test and re-check.

Hopefully it is just a simple adjustment/cleaning (VERY common to have this happen)

Did they show up as being closed on the switch edge test, or do you mean they made contact visually?

Have you checked for power at the coils yet? It is pretty easy. Turn the game on. Open the game up. Put your meter on DC. Touch the black lead to the ground strap, and your red lead to each lug. You should see a reading between 25-80v.

If you have power at the lugs, your next step is to test the associated transistors for EACH coil. (Q73, Q75, Q77) Put your DMM onto continuity/diode test. Black lead on the tab, red lead to the outer legs. You should see .4-.6 on the legs. If it is anything other than that, your transistor is bad. If they all test ok, check the predrivers for the transistors (Same test, black lead to center leg, red lead to outer legs.

You can also test fire each coil by grounding the center tap (very quickly) to the ground. Coil should fire.

What color is the thicker wire going to each of the coils? There will be an associated fuse for that color wire on the Aux power board. Double check the fuse, and check for voltage on that color wire the same way you checked at the coils. If you have power there, you know the issue is downstream.

Did you test fire the solenoids at all? Tested for voltage at the board yet?

You need to check for voltage at the connector AND coils. That will help narrow things down.

What are the other wires measuring at? Specifically the brown and yellow wires.

Please note that the diagnostic modes give you a wealth of information to troubleshoot problems
Solenoid test mode will fire all the solenoids in sequence (except the flippers)
Really important to do this check, so we can break down the problem, if the pops work in solenoid test mode then its a switch or logic problem. This will essentially break the problem in half if the CPU can tell the pops to fire.
Note that Pops/Slings are "special solenoids"

Page 29 in manual you linked shows one.

Test the driver and pre driver transistors as I described yesterday. Should have .4-.6 on the legs.

Edit - Ignore this post, but I left it because I hat when posts disappear...

Wrong setting on your dmm.

Hmm. Then maybe I am wrong. Looked like a voltage reading.