(Topic ID: 299310)

All Praise be to the Yoppsicle Socket-Free LEDs!

By Tsskinne

2 years ago


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  • 331 posts
  • 80 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 110 Pinsiders

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#54 2 years ago

I'm definitely a cheapie when it comes to some things and even I now replace all those old sockets with new when doing a swap.

All the 'fixes' over the years with old sockets just don't cut it for me in the long haul. I do save the ones that aren't rusty though, and re-use the bare wire between the GI sockets sometimes (when I need a short piece and I can't find my new spool....)

2 weeks later
#114 2 years ago

I see meteor behind you, how about LED strips to replace the rocket lamps/top meteor light lamps? (I know about the twist replacements already)

That way all the LEDs would be consistent throughout the machine.

#124 2 years ago

I just finished doing my Dragonfist - looks great. Fun soldering in the 470 ohm resistors and luckily I stuffed them all and thought about it and realized the resistor needed to be on the opposite side of the board as the LED before I soldered even one.... but I had to pull out all 100 resistors and flip. Oh well.

I think this is a nominee for "product of the year" - first time my fist has ever had all its lamps working 100%.

This is after endless frustrations with replacing sockets! Even replaced sockets there still were lamps that weren't reliable. The elimination of the socket is the genius part on this product.

#127 2 years ago
Quoted from dyopp21:

PS- is there really such a thing as “product of the year?”

https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/the-twipy-pinball-awards-results-percentages-and-honorable-mentions/

Would qualify under 'mod of the year'

#134 2 years ago
Quoted from cfh:

If i was making these, i would have installed the 470 ohm resistor, surface mount style. if you didn't want the resistor, with a simple soldering iron, you could easily remove the surface mount resistor ("flick it off"), in just about 1 second.

That's what the newer revision has.... I just got the pre-revision.

The only suggestion I would have is make the landing area larger for the common wire - just to get it away from the screw head. I also sometimes use the tab which negates worrying about that and uses the screw to pass the common voltage.

I had found one swapped wire and one I forgot to connect when I did it, easy as cake to pull the playfield up, desolder and swap. The standalone pad takes solder really well.

4 months later
#219 2 years ago
Quoted from casher2006:

Why not the 6803 games?

Need more circuitry to deal with the phased lamps. LEDs would stay on for multiple phases.

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