(Topic ID: 299310)

All Praise be to the Yoppsicle Socket-Free LEDs!

By Tsskinne

2 years ago


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  • 331 posts
  • 80 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 29 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 110 Pinsiders

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There are 331 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 7.
#301 1 year ago
Quoted from Apex:

You are assuming that you can't simply move the screw and rewire to locate the yoppsicles better for use under star rollovers. However, I use the flex head leds from comet at star rollovers.

I'm not assuming. That's why I'm asking in this community!

#302 1 year ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

I'm not assuming. That's why I'm asking in this community!

I have installed them under star rollovers several times. It does require a new mounting hole and crating a jumper for the hookup, but it’s not hard to do. I also saw someone in the community that made an additional jumper and placed 2 on each star rollover, one on each side of the switch, to make them extra bright.

Yopp

#303 1 year ago

I've used the on star rollovers just fine. Little tight but no big deal

3 weeks later
#304 1 year ago

Im redoing a Meteor and have some of these for the PF but thinking I may change out the back-box lights too. What would be the best one for illuminating the BG without looking like a super bright, out of place LED?

#305 1 year ago
Quoted from ibis:

Im redoing a Meteor and have some of these for the PF but thinking I may change out the back-box lights too. What would be the best one for illuminating the BG without looking like a super bright, out of place LED?

What I do on my backboxes is only place about 1/3 of the LEDs in strategic positions. In other words, I leave 2/3's of the sockets empty. I used to be able to find some really dim LED for dirt cheap, but those are hard to find in the warm white flavor these days. Since then I've found placing 1/3 bulbs then cutting out small squares of black electrical tape and placing them on the tips of the brighter LED's tends to disperse the light outward nicely overall. If you place them in the right spots (behind a face or some roaring tiger, things like that) you can create this nice effect of highlighting the better aspects of a back glass. Also in some spots I will throw in a colored bulb to tone down the brightness some and for added coloring effect on things like lettering. This has an added side effect of really knocking down the amount of glare you get on the PF glass due to an overly bright back box. You can SEE the playfield better, especially at the top.

Here is a prime example of one of my machines with toned down light. Notice how well you can see the playfield even with the PF glass in place-
IMG_8098 (resized).JPGIMG_8098 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#306 1 year ago

So I just had a customer reach out to me and say they are having issues with the sticks installed in a Baby Pac Man. I'm wholly unfamiliar with this particular machine. I've asked what lamp driver board it has and what the sticks are doing and waiting to hear back. But also wanted to put it out to the larger community for any feedback. Does anyone know if there is anything different about that particular machine that may cause issues? They specifically stated it's not a 6803.

Thanks.

#307 1 year ago
Quoted from dyopp21:

So I just had a customer reach out to me and say they are having issues with the sticks installed in a Baby Pac Man.

#baby-pac-man (1982) was the first Bally to use the dual phase feature lamp setup that was later implemented on all Bally 6803 games. It's also used on Grand Slam (1983) and Granny and the Gators (1984).

#308 1 year ago
Quoted from dyopp21:

So I just had a customer reach out to me and say they are having issues with the sticks installed in a Baby Pac Man. I'm wholly unfamiliar with this particular machine. I've asked what lamp driver board it has and what the sticks are doing and waiting to hear back. But also wanted to put it out to the larger community for any feedback. Does anyone know if there is anything different about that particular machine that may cause issues? They specifically stated it's not a 6803.
Thanks.

I put LEDs from Comet in a Bally Grand Slam without issue. Not sure why your LED boards would be any different?

#309 1 year ago

Yopp'd an EM. works great.

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1 month later
11
#310 1 year ago

I bought 100 warm white a while ago for my restored Eight Ball and another current restoration project. Tired of dealing with the flakey sockets in Eight Ball, I finally got around to replacing them yesterday. WOW! In a happy camper!

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11 months later
#311 3 months ago

Any chance you'll be doing an rgbw anytime soon in the future?
Used yopps on my last homebrew, but will be doing controlled lights on my new one.

#312 88 days ago

Has anyone installed these in a Fathom have a few pictures? I'm getting ready to go shortly.

2 weeks later
#313 68 days ago
Quoted from MrBigg:

Any chance you'll be doing an rgbw anytime soon in the future?
Used yopps on my last homebrew, but will be doing controlled lights on my new one.

There are no plans to do an RGB version of Yoppsicles. There is a solution for this already available from FAST pinball.
https://fastpinball.com/products/lighting/rgb-led-insert/
Yopp

#314 68 days ago

So, would these work in later B/W games? 1990-1998? Thanks!

#315 68 days ago

As a Canadian I'd have to import these. Has anyone had them burnout? I'm going to do a scratch build and am leaning towards the old #44 sockets but see many going this route. Wondering about long term maintenance as I can't buy these locally at all

#316 68 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

As a Canadian I'd have to import these. Has anyone had them burnout? I'm going to do a scratch build and am leaning towards the old #44 sockets but see many going this route. Wondering about long term maintenance as I can't buy these locally at all

I have not seen a single one burn out yet.

If a future government in the USA sealed the border and forced your hand, you could always replace the LED chip or resistor component .

Of course, buy a few extras in each color

#317 68 days ago
Quoted from egiblet:

So, would these work in later B/W games? 1990-1998? Thanks!

They won't work in a later game I'm afraid. Anything with a matrix will cause issues (if it has a diode at each bulb, that's a tell tale sign).

#318 68 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

As a Canadian I'd have to import these. Has anyone had them burnout? I'm going to do a scratch build and am leaning towards the old #44 sockets but see many going this route. Wondering about long term maintenance as I can't buy these locally at all

Out of curiosity, I just did a quick search for "Yoppsicle Canada" and this popped up: https://pinballmedics.ca/product/yoppsicle-led-sticks/

I wasn't even aware of Pinball Medics or when they ordered from me, but I'm happy someone is offering them north of the border! I've shipped a few to Canada but the shipping cost was pretty outrageous. I also had a fellow pinball restorer mention to me recently that someone in Canada has created their own version of them but didn't have any details beyond that. I'm not sure the name of that particular product, but you may want to see if you can find that as well. I don't know anything about the actual product so I can't speak to it's quality or reliability so your mileage may vary.
Yopp

1 month later
#319 29 days ago

So did your bar open to the public? Anybody the location and hours? I have an opportunity (?) to be in the Memphis area for a short while. Thanks

#320 29 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

So did your bar open to the public? Anybody the location and hours? I have an opportunity (?) to be in the Memphis area for a short while. Thanks

Open to the public. Flip Side Memphis. 1349 Autumn Ave, Memphis, TN.

A link to our tournament streams so you can get the lay of the land:
https://twitch.tv/flipsidememphis

We stream our tuesday night tournaments every week.
David

#321 29 days ago

Asked the yyop and he didn't know, but about to refresh a Hankin Orbit1 and wondering if there is any reason these wouldn't work in this game?

I also bought a couple sheets of each cool and warm, and was wondering which would be recommended?

#322 29 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Asked the yyop and he didn't know, but about to refresh a Hankin Orbit1 and wondering if there is any reason these wouldn't work in this game?
I also bought a couple sheets of each cool and warm, and was wondering which would be recommended?

As long as the insert lamp sockets are like the ones in old Bally/Stern games, it will work. The stranded bare wire attached to the base of the lamp socket and a single solder lug with the one signal wire going to it.

I suggest all warm white behind all colors. Now, some white and clear inserts may look better with cool whites. Cool whites turn colored inserts to odd shades of the colored inserts, so warm is preferred.

#323 29 days ago

Yoppsicle install for Wormhole Pinball, which this game won best original pin at TPF2024.
I swear I do have cool whites in the GI. Probably should not had taken the picture with the flash on.
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#324 29 days ago

Yoppsicles in Andromeda? Yes please!! One insert is out due to a lamp board issue at the time of the picture. All inserts are warm white. Another Wormhole Pinball game that was at TPF2024.
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#325 29 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

..Ground braid wire ....

Don't confuse the young folks that will be reading this thread for decades!

#326 29 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Don't confuse the young folks that will be reading this thread for decades!

Stranded bare wire sounds better then.

#327 29 days ago

Why won't it always be called ground wire? That's it's purpose....

#328 29 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Why won't it always be called ground wire? That's it's purpose....

No, that's the power bus.

#329 29 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

No, that's the power bus.

Ahh, ok.

#330 29 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Why won't it always be called ground wire? That's it's purpose....

The bare wire in that circuit is the +6v power.

The Ground is actually what is switched on and off by the logic

Seems backwards, I know, but it requires less power to function that way

#331 29 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The bare wire in that circuit is the +6v power.
The Ground is actually what is switched on and off by the logic
Seems backwards, I know, but it requires less power to function that way

Yes, i understand, and knew in the back of my head that some circuits work that way.

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