Must be nice. After blowing two fuses on the flying monkeys and spinning house, now my #18 board just went. I guess it's best to get everything out of the way early...

Thats why if I was to ever guy a NIB pin, I'd wait until later in the production life to make sure all the bugs are worked out.

If a small one goes, replacing with the new design, ends the problems.

LTG : )

The single LED GI boards were being stressed too hard especially the ones at or near the end of a string. Those were re-designed. My game has the originals. So far I just had 1 go out (at the 19 spot) and just got a new replacement. Hopefully the new design will prove to be very reliable because when one goes out everything in the series after it goes out. This does make it simple to figure out which one is bad though. You can bypass the bad board but the lighting effects will be off by one spot. When I bypassed #19 the yellow brick road started with pink.

How do you tell if a game has the new boards?

Power supply is 7 1/2 volts and not 5 volts. Middle lower back wall of cabinet.

LTG : )

When did the new boards start shipping with the game. My game is 1 month old.

I don't know if there is an exact date.

LTG : )

Mine has the 5volt power supply, but haven't had any issues?
Am I to expect something to fail?

I wouldn't worry about it.

99% won't. If you lose one of the known problem children like #15, #18, etc. I'll see you get one of the new ones as a replacement. End of problem.

Most of the games won't lose a LED board. Maybe 10% at most, and less than half of those have had repeat issues.

A few games, mostly very early almost prototypes ones have had more, and they have been dealt with.

And if by some miracle you'd have more than one or two go, I'll be there to help you so you can get the most out of your game.

LTG : )

Quickest and easiest way to tell if newest LED boards or not...

Lift playfield and read the text on the LED boards.

Upside down text=older boards.
Right side up text=newest boards.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

+1 on the Customer Service comment.

My game went thru some of the #15 boards and Lloyd was right there to assist.

I recently met Eric, the Electrical Engineer JJP hired, and he explained that either power supply is acceptable, it really was the boards themselves that needing some beefing up to be more reliable. He is da man.

Kudos to everyone at JJP.

Can I assume mine has the older LED boards?
Mine was built 8-26-2013
I did find it odd that board # 15 had a different colored dot than the rest.
The other pic shows the writing on the LED board (and it appears upside down).

Pic 1.jpg
pic2.jpg

I suppose I should have been more clear...

Lift playfield and read the text on the *LARGE* LED boards.

Upside down text=older boards.
Right side up text=newest boards.

From what I can see of the larger LED boards in your photos, it looks like you have the older 5V versions.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

If I was looking at the correct power supply in the back of the cabinet, it looks like mine is 5 volts as well.
Bummer, they were still using these as of 8-26.
Guess I will wait for my failure to happen

Not all of them are failing per JJP.

Its easy to assume they fail when the 10 people who had it fail make a topic on here. The other 990 are/will be fine.

Lloyd was super helpful when I had the board issues. Contact him if you do and he will get right on it. Thanks again Lloyd for all your help.

Steve

I have nothing but outstanding service from JJP. As stated in another thread.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/very-impressed-with-jersey-jack-pinball-customer-service