I used to have the clear Tesseract cube in mine but it's so heavy it doesn't spin well. So I put the original cube back in, but kept the blue flasher behind it. Still lights up pretty well, and my cube spins super fast.
There's a plastic in the back with graphics on it that obstructs the rollover lanes. Fairly easy to remove, and there's a clear plastic under it.
ColorDMD is great on this title (but aren't they all?). But the final wizard mode Battle for Earth is not colorized.
Quoted from pinballaddicted:
Before you go down this road you need to remember you will more than likely spend a lot of time dialling in this game. Hulk arms will need to be adjusted correctly (up and down resting height), the plate in front of Hulk must be adjusted to be as sensitive as possible. Hulks arms will more than likely over extend and this will cause issues breaking the rear plastic all the time and hitting the lifting ramp. There will be plunger issues, both hand and auto. Black widow shot will take some stuffing around with the ramp height. We were up for the challenge and got ours working as it should.
Before you turn the game on, it must have a REV B Aux board (REV A has an earth issue) fitted and a filter to the CPU board to protect the ICs from shaker feedback. Like everything else, this we learnt the hard way.
Once you get past all that, game is awesome. We had a Hulk LE for a few years and loved it. The only reason we sold it was to make room for another machine.
What's the CPU board filter?
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