Springfield, MO
People can say what they want about the voice callouts in this game, but none of them are as bad as the Beast voice in Xmen!
(Topic ID: 83583)
Linked Games
The Avengers (LE)
Stern, 2012-
The Avengers (Premium)
Stern, 2012
-
The Avengers (Pro)
Stern, 2012
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1 month later
2 months later
Quoted from DCFAN:It should be ok for the lights under the plastics. The ones that you have a clear line of site you may find them a little harsh such as the two next to the shooter lane.
I always use frosted LEDs whenever I can see any part of the dome of the LED.
Here is a picture Rarehero posted way back when he did his green LEDs to white (no more Christmas tree effect):139715-i.jpeg 59 KB
That looks soooo much better.
8 months later
Quoted from Grinder901:I'll rent you mine so you can colorize the ColorDMD I have in it.......
image.png
Haha, not really looking for a rental 
I am also, not really looking for a Pro.....LE or bust
....also it is closer to 290 miles from to Memphis from here. Siri is full of crap...lol
1 month later
2 weeks later
5 months later
3 weeks later
I finally got my Hulk LE today. One issue as well. The "U" opto on the Hulk drops isn't working. I tried reflowing the solder but no go. So for the time being I swapped the opto board with the Thor targets so I can at least get Hulk MB going. I thought no big deal, I will just get a new board for it...... $130 on Marco....... yikes.......
Maybe I will email Stern and beg for a replacement
I also swapped out the Green GI for cool white and it looks a lot better IMO and also a bit brighter.
ColorDMD is installed as well and look really good..
Good news on my drop target opto board is that after a few games either the opto locked on or it compensated and just has the target registered all of the time now. So I can at least complete Thor now. It will work until I get around to see if Stern will do anything or ponying up the $130 for a new board.
Also worked on the tweaks to the BW ramp and it is much smoother now.
Ya I have done at least 5 in a row a few times.
On a side now....how the heck are you supposed to adjust the hulk plate switch. There is barely any movement at all when it is installed. I took it all out and it is working fine and even tried adjusting the switch but there is so little movement when it is in the game that it can't actuate the switch.
Quoted from Hasi:can you post pictures from
the upgraded white gi?
This is the best I could do with my phone, but you get the idea. The only green GI I left was the two directly behind the Hulk. Also this was before I put the ColorDMD in.
I have an issue with my Hulk assembly. I took it off to put the washers on the plungers to restrict the Hulk's movement left to right. (Broke the plastic the other day.....figures)
Anyways, that part works great, but after I put it all back in the Hulk arms will not activate, even in coil test mode. I have checked the coil wiring, windings, Ohms, etc. The plug looks fine as does the transistor board it runs too. I checked the transistor and it seems fine. I am not sure what happened. I never bumped it or anything that I know of. I didn't even take that part apart other than taking his arms off.
Is there a dedicated fuse for the arms that I am missing?
Quoted from DaveD:Mine is broken in a clean line at the thinnest part. You have to look for a broken plastic to find it. When I got my tweak kit from stern they included a new one. I decided not to install it figuring that if I restrict movement to avoid breakage it will be harder to complete hulk. Gov were you able to get hulk back up and running again?
Haven't had time to work on it. I plan on doing that tomorrow. On my Hulk plastic I am going to make two custom protectors for it and glue it back together and sandwich it between the two clear plastic protectors. My brother has a CNC machine I can use to cut them out.
Got my Hulk fixed, the wire of the coil had broken loose. Easy fix. Anybody else have issues with the 6 ball trough spitting out two balls occasionally? It only happens after it attempts to kick out a ball and it doesn't get all of the way out and then the next ball in line slides down before the first ball falls back in place. Then there are two balls there to kick out. Everything looks ok, the top metal weld isn't broken like on a lot of Sterns. Not sure how to fix it. Never had this problem with a 4 ball trough.
I haven't had any phantom drains no. I do have the fix kit for the Hulk saucer, it does help quite a bit. The game is playing great right now other than the two ball thing on occasion. I have the Hulk adjusted really well and haven't had a stuck ball in a dozen games since fixing it.
Quoted from DCFAN:Bend the chute flap slightly toward the shooter. That seems to help prevent the ball from bouncing back into the trough.
Here is a tutorial for how to do it on WOZ but it applies to Stern as well:
http://www.pinplay.com/5/adjusting_the_ball_trough_on_woz.html
It looks like it is nearly already straight on mine.
Quoted from DCFAN:It needs to be angled toward the shooter. For the flap which direction do you mean straight?
The article says the opposite of that.
"The ball trough exit will now be exposed. Using a pair of pliers, grab the thick, bent piece of metal on the right side of the trough and bend it just a little bit outwards, towards the side of the cabinet, to reduce the sharpness of the angle (see photo above, on left side)."
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