I use CT frosted non-ghosting. I've also color matched the insert with the respective shot. That is, IM yellow, BW red, HE purple, etc. looks very nice..

Do you have a picture of yours lit up? I'd like to see the colored versions.

Thanks!

I just added additional standoffs and was able to use my frosted white LEDs. Much better!

IMG_8421.JPG

Thanks!

Rob
Robsgameroom.com

I couldn't decide on color either, so I ended up with a slow color changing LED. I really love the effect!

In place of a flasher? Works ok?

I guess it didn't really dawn on me that it's supposed to be a flasher even though the socket does get jumpered on to the flasher below. It doesn't really act like a flasher...it stays on quite a bit when the cube is active. It's never given me any problems and it's been that way about a year now.

Here you go...

Very cool! This is one drawback of the LE. All the lights are soldered in LEDs which are not real easy to change.

That is cool. I was going to use gels on my LE to get a similar effect but never got around to it. Now that I'm selling it I probably won't...but it could happen.

Hey Avengers fans, the Zdoor Tessaract mod is back in stock. See here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-tesseract-cube-version#post-588923

This is the best mod out there for Avengers...

Yea, I have no idea how to adjust the volume to get the voices louder. The manual states that higher numbers make the item QUIETER but is just doesn't seem to work as described.

Anyone have some guidance on how to make the callouts louder?

Hey Avengers fans! I tried a tweak over the weekend with great results. I added a typical metal washer, along with the stock black plastic washer under each screw that holds the Black Widow spinner to the BW ramp. This raised the spinner slightly reducing the ball impact on the spinner.

The spinner still spins normally but the ball has more momentum to make it to the end of the ramp!

Worked like a charm for me!

This club has been awfully quiet lately so thought I'd awaken it. I highly recommend super bands for this game. Put them on and the game has become even more enjoyable. I'm able to hit shots much better now, particularly BW. I hit a new high last night of 314 mil, so much fun. Got to AOTHC, but drained very quickly...sigh. I wish this game had a feature to carry over AOTHC in the same manner IM allows you an option to carry over Jericho. I also had four of six avengers COMPLETED (ie, solid, not flashing.) and completed several vs modes, the scoring really piles up when you do this. I had massive bonuses of 40-50 mil on a few balls. I have extra balls set set 12, 50, 100 and 150 mil and am on 3-ball.

I'm loving this game. even with the new STLE code, I still play this game the most. I just put in the tesseract cube mod this week and the Flipper Fidelity animated back box lighting.

I have the iridescent green Saturn rings on mine with the pinballbulbs purple flipper illumination kit on mine, so they glow! So bitchin. With RGP flipper buttons and speaker grill lights, plus the Tesseract mod, the game just sparkles.

With soft Saturn rings the shots are even easier than with Super Bands.

Pictures?

Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com

Here ya go!
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Howdy-

My AVLE blue arrived yesterday. The 100F temps in my garage couldn't deter me from setting her up, tuning her in, & getting a few games in. Heck of a game--I've adjusted the front-bake rake to be a little steeper than what the bubble level suggests--it felt way too slow!

First thoughts:
1 - Need to tweak Hulk to minimize stuck balls under his right arm.
2 - Likenesses of actors used, but not their voices. Darn.
3 - Can't see the Thor targets.
4 - What sort of voodoo lights are under the PF? Fancy? (Yes, I know they're color-changing LED thingies.)

-Jason

Avengers Mummy.JPG

Adjust the switch plate near Hulk. That is 90% of stuck balls. You'll get used to the voice work. It's very well done, original and humorous. Yes, visibility of Thor targets is an epic fail. Stern was asleep at the wheels on that, but the playfield does light up in front if the targets you need to hit. The GI voodoo is pure awesomeness. Rarehero had a brief moment of clarity when he decided to swap out the green GI for warm white. Makes the game brighter and less Christmassy in certain modes.

I suggest illuminating the flipper area and putting spot lamps on the playfield to make it brighter. Remember to tap into a constant source of GI so the spots are always on.

Switch the Quinn Jet and Hellicarrier plastic locations to improve visibility.

Wrap the light tube in the backbox in some painters tape or colored construction paper to reduce the glare on the playfield.

Place extra washers and spacers on the spinner and BW ramp plastic if nog already done so.

Settings to "easy" for every Avenger except Hulk and Loki MB.

Get Gio's pinball refinery Tesseract mod. The game is incomplete without it.

And relocate Loki lock lights, otherwise IM is even harder to hit and you can't see the Nick a Fury target.

Having followed pinside fairly closely over the past couple of years I must say that I do not know of any recent pinball machine that has required more "tweaks" and/or "final dialing" than the Avengers. I owned a Pro for eight or nine months and it was pretty much something all the time. The game has some good stuff on it (to this day the black widow ramp is probably my favorite shot) but not much that does not require at least a few "tweaks" every now and then. Most machines require some final tuning in one or two areas but for the Avengers it is all over the pf. I am sure there are many owners out there that have never had any problems and would trade a child before getting rid of their Avengers. I just think that if Stern had done a little more work before releasing the game it could have been a very good machine.

I agree. At $4.5 to $5k for a beautiful LE it's worth some ongoing tweaking if the difficulty and rules fit your taste.

I BEAT Loki MB last night for only the second time since the nib was delivered in 12/12. Caught the animations this time! Hysterical! Hulk thrashes Loki like a rag doll just like in the movie...but it's original dots. So great.

How do you beat him? Keep shooting all the avengers?

Once you hit a blinking shot you need to hit it again to clear that shot before moving on to the next one.

My tweaks, once figured out, seem to have held up fine. Hulk was the toughest to sort out along with the ball launch. Ball got stuck on Hulk; I ultimately raised his arms a bit and it solved 90% of the issue. The ball launch/plunge issue (ball didn't make it all the way up) required a lot of fussing around to get it dialed in "just right". Seems good now. Fun game. Too bad all the 'bad press'. This was my first "new" game so I guess I was used to fussing with my machines -- but I get why others might be pissed about the tweaking required. Based on an awesome movie though and Hulk still makes me laugh with some of his one-liners.

Thank you very much for the summation of recommended tweaks. Wow, quite a few!

Hulk: Are you referring to the plate right in front of him? I think that most of the stuck balls skirt around that plate. I get something like 2-8 stuck balls per game, depending on how well I do. I'll look into the threads discussing his adjustments. His right hand's knuckles are scuffed from scraping the bridge, it seems.

Plastic: Noticed the big plastic that wraps around behind Hulk is cracked at its thin spot, but it seems solid. Oh well.

Voice work: Nope, not feeling it. Is that scary hissy voice supposed to be Loki or one of the aliens? I hope not Loki. Hulk stands out as hilarious & awesome in a sea of mediocre voices. Man, the "announcer" sounds like a game show host: "Blaacck Widoooow!!! Captaaaaaain......AmeeeRRRRicaaaa!" I'm expecting "Come on down! You're the next contestant on The Price Is Right!"

THOR targets: thanks for tip on looking for PF lights instead of the drops themselves. I'm still somewhat in flailing mode--haven't had time to play much & learn strategy...and 80% of the games that I find time to play involve putting my 1-year-old boy on the glass & playing half-blind, so it's difficult to get a serious game in... :]

GI lights: I couldn't stand the red/blue/green/purple randomness, so I dug into my bags of frosted bulbs & swapped out most of them--I prefer to make the GI more subtle with frosted diffuse light, so that the flashers & inserts stand out more: mostly blue & red under the plastics (because they're blue & red), changed the apron art ones to frosted white (they were tiny white points of light crammed up against the art, lighting up just 1 teeny point), PF row over flashers are now frosted white, under back ramp are a couple of frosted white, some frosted green by Hulk. I need to get a few more from Nifty after I take inventory of what I want to do w/ this game & any more tweaks to my Tron Pro. Oddly, many of the flashers in this AVLE Blue were incandescent...is that normal for a game sold w/ LEDs? (I'm the 3rd owner.)

Flipper area light: doesn't bug me yet. Will probably keep as is. (I'm going to town on my Tron, so I want to curb my enthusiasm a little on AVLE.)

Quinn Jet & Helicarrier plastics: These already seem to be out of the way. They block portions of the PF where the ball just passes along a path--I don't see a need for visibility. What *does* bug me is that the jet is angled just right to reflect my ceiling lights, so it look just like a shiny white piece of plastic--I can't really see the art printed on it.

Backbox fluorescent: The previous guy wrapped it in blue painter tape. The translite hardly lit up at all. I removed it. Yeah, a bit too much glare. I put a thin 1" strip of blue painter tape along the bulb, sort of the bottom/front area that would reflect off the glass & into my eyes. Good balance now.

BW ramp/spinner: I saw a post about this but don't understand the problem. It seems to work fine as-is. Please elaborate.

Settings: I go for factory, except for Free Play, strong coils, & a custom message.

Tesseract: Previous owner installed. Very awesome. Noticed last night that a chunk of it had broken off. Hope the rest stays together!

Loki: The figure was already put at the back left corner, & there's an L-shaped plastic w/ 3 lights halfway up the shooter lane. Seems fine like this.

I noticed a bit of oddness last night while fussing w/ LEDs:
On the right, near the inlane/outlane, there's a metal stud flush with the PF. See red arrow. It's not the outlane size/difficulty adjustment hole (shown in yellow--I've got mine in the easy position). What's this for? Occasionally, w/ the outlane difficulty post where it is now, the ball will manage to wiggle up into that little cavity behind the lowest SHIELD target. It's kinda comical & cute.

Thanks,
-Jason

MysteryMetal.JPG

The red arrow is pointing to a plug Stern put in the playfield. There are several of them on the game where they probably made late adjustments to correct flow issues.

You can buy another post to put in the middle outlane hole to prevent the ball from getting stuck.

Played a few games on the blue LE today at a very cool local Pinsiders' business. Very cool game. Tough but lots to aim for and some fun mulitball madness. The Hawkeye shot is very rewarding. His was pretty much stock. The Iron Man shot seemed the toughest by far. The HE and CA were much easier. Beautiful game that I could see myself going overboard modding/pimping.

Regarding that right outlane, if you close it down you then need to take that larger rubber and stretch it around the star post in the shape of a triangle.

Agreed about that one Blackwidow quote. I told that to George Gomez personally - you bricked it! It's not her "namesake" it's her name! But he said it's licensed work, so they're stuck with it. Otherwise, outside one geeky CA voice over I like the voiceovers a lot. To those that don't like it "Blow it out your Staff!".

It's pinball man!

Howdy-

Spent some time w/ my AVLE Blue this weekend.

1 - Raised the height of Hulk's arm's resting position per

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hulk-avengers-ball-hang-up-fix . While I was in

there, I took a green marker to his "armpit" adapter plates & to the screw heads in his

shoulders--far from a perfect match with his green skin, but better than shiny metal. I'll play with it like this for a while & see if I want to try adjusting the switch or widening the switch "hat."

2 - Ordered a USB drive Quinjet from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Avengers-Quinjet-4GB-

Drive-18043-WLG/dp/B00EB7NYEW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411415856&sr=8-1&keywords=usb

+avengers+quinjet . I'll swap it in for the Quinjet plastic at back right, which just

reflects way too much glare from my ceiling lights--can't see the printing on it anyway...To

preserve its rakish angle, I'l probably drill out the rivet holding it to the base, keeping

the base & screwing this USB drive to the resulting hole. That way, I can go back to the

stock plastic w/ a simple nut & bolt if desired.

3 - I now see what the BW ramp issue is. Yes, mine had a noticeable step up to go from the stationary ramp to the the dynamic bridge. I removed the plastic washers under the bridge to lower its "down" position & put the 2 washers under the BW ramp to shim it up. Nice & smooth now. Still doesn't help me get the shot *into* that skinny BW ramp... :\

4 - Found missing chunk of Pinball Refinery Tesseract in coin box baggie. Glued it back. Looks better.

5 - Right outlane rubber. Nope, TheFamilyArcade, I can't stretch the existing rubber around the outlane post to make it at triangle--it will interfere w/ the Loki Lock vertical white plunger. So, I simply swapped rubbers: I moved the single-post rubber to the top of the "triangle" & wrapped the double-post rubber around the "left" post & the outlane easy post that I'd scooched down. That does the trick.

6 - One more BW ramp observation. I see that the steel flamp that transitions from the PF to the ramp doesn't quite lie flush. Normal?

Thanks,
-Jason
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BWRampLift1.JPG

Nope, that flap is not normal. Mine is flat all across. Also add a washer or 2 under the BW spinner mount to raise it a touch higher. The lower ball impact on the spinner allows the ball to proceed with more speed giving it a better chance of making it to the scoring opto.

You can also try adding a couple washers under the clear shields on the BW ramp.

People can say what they want about the voice callouts in this game, but none of them are as bad as the Beast voice in Xmen!

I've played my Avengers so much that now the "real" voices sound a little funny...LOL! I donno...I really do not mind any of them. They seemed off at first, but I've gotten used to them and they are fitting. My only complaint is Ironman and Hawkeye sound a lot alike and I can't always tell them apart, but that's a minor complaint.

A few of X-Men's voices are definitely worse, but I do not hate them nearly as much as some seem to either.

You are correct. My bad. The "fix" for this is adding another skinny post (so both holes are filled, yuk yuk) and rubbering that (somebody stop me!).

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It's killing me not having this game in my house already....

A fair amount of tweaking last night:

1 - Shimmed up the BW spinner w/ one washer. Can't say if it really helped, but no harm--it still spins nicely.

2 - Shimmed up the 2 "ceiling" plastics at the top of the BW ramp, which were very low & might have been interfering with complete BW shots that traverse the entire bridge. Used some plastic standoff spacers.

3 - Was now getting some balls stopping at the far end of the dynamic bridge, where they enter a static U-channel guide. That U-channel seemed to be a little too close to the front of the machine, relative to the dynamic bridge ball channel. Used vise grips & a rag (to prevent marring) & bent the U-channel a little. Still get a few balls stopping there & diverting straight down to the ramp hole that drops the ball into the Hulk saucer.

4 - Haven't had many balls drop down into the Hulk saucer & fall right out, but I looked for a way to slow down fast balls & help prevent those pop-outs. I put a post rubber around one of the 2 black standoffs at the end of that cantilevered ball path. So far, so good.

5 - Looked into flattening out the flexible sheet metal transition from the PF to the BW ramp. That horizontal ramp piece on which the ball rolls seems to be quite stuck in the PF--I unscrewed the 2 fasteners at the tail end of the path, & it seems that there's 1 big fastener under the flexible sheet metal, but I couldn't wrest that free. Oh well, will keep it as-is for now.

6 - I conceded & changed all difficulties for collecting & completing the Avengers from factory setting Hard to Medium. Still played completely terribly all last night. Bah.

7 - Turned the coil power down from Hard to Normal. Was getting lots of violent slingshot launches & air balls off of flippers. Normal doesn't seem too different. Might try Soft later.

8 - Still get inconsistent plunges & auto-fires. Some zip up the shooter lane so fast that they leap over the rollover switches up top. Some make it up about 2/3 of the way, rattle/jam, & roll back down to the Loki Lock plunger. Can't see what makes it hang up sometimes.

Thanks,
-Jason

Stern has a fix for #4, it's a circular piece you put under the plastic drop down. It's slightly smaller than the drop down hole and slows the ball down. I get zero bounce outs with it.

I played last night, 149 mil, settings are hard to medium, 3 ball, right outlanes in. Super bands are a must for this game given how precise the shots need to be.

Anybody have the clear plastic pieces above the BW Ramp? The first one on mine broke, I haven't looked for a piece to make one yet, just looking for original for now...

Thanks, Dave

thanks for all the suggestions for dialing in this machine...especially the washers on the BW spinner, and on the clear plastic above the metal ramp.

A few updates after more tweaking & playing:

1 - Don't shim the BW ramp "roof" plastics too much--when the bridge went up, it hit the glass & couldn't drive back down. Had to unshim it a bit.

2 - If you shim the BW ramp entry too high relative to the bridge portion of the ramp, so that there's a slight drop as the ball progresses along the ramp, then a shot just weak enough will get trapped on that transition--I need to try to make those 2 parts as coplanar as possible, with no step down.

3 - Dialing in the game either made it harder, or I just got way worse. One quick change I just did on the "easy" position of the right outlane was putting the post rubber on the outlane post alone, & stretching the bigger rubber between the "left" & "top" points of that triangle, as I had it previously. I was finding that the rubber stretched between the "left" triangle point & the adjustable outlane post was making a nice angled path to bounce the ball into the right outlane. My game doesn't need any more challenges...

4 - Got & installed the USB Quinjet toy. Much nicer than the original plastic. Easy to drill out the rivet & run a screw through the plastic hole & into the Quinjet. Put a dab of superglue between the Quinjet & metal bracket to keep it from spinning on its single screw mount.

5 - Holy moly, this game launches balls! I get so many air balls off of the slings & often off of the flippers. Sometimes the flippers shoot the ball onto the Hawkeye arrow, sometimes the left sling launches the ball into the shooter lane or the Loki Lock. Last night was the best: left flipper launched the ball aaaallll the way to the back right of the playfield, into the bonus multiplier lanes. I've never seen such a launchy games--what gives? I had the coil power on Hard for a while, then Normal, & now on Weak--didn't seem to change anything.

-Jason

This doesn't sound right. My game never did this and my slings were set tight with new rubber and the flippers were rebuilt. Is your pitch and level right?

Indeed. The legs are all set as I set them for my other game.

These launches come right off the solenoid-powered devices, like when you're shooting pool and hit the cue ball too with your cue stick. Hmmm...maybe my balls are too big...

Are you using the softest Sarurn Rings? More airballs with these.

Also, the plastics over the BW ramp inhibit some shots. I use one, offset from its normal place and covering just enough ramp to prevent an airball, nothing more.

Turn the coil power to low.
You can also put a washer or two under the posts to in effect raise the slingshot rubbers so they will not lift the ball.

I don't get hardly any airballs on mine... make sure your flipper rubbers are not too low on the bats. I have superbands on mine and have them about 1/16" from the top of the bat...

Wax that baby. I already did 2 wax job on this pin. Everytime I started having airballs issues and it cleared the problem and makes the gameplay so much faster.

I love it