(Topic ID: 83583)

All Hulk Get Is Tilt - Avengers Club!

By RDReynolds

8 years ago


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There are 976 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 20.
#951 1 year ago
Quoted from Y3AG3R:

I have some sitting in a box waiting on me to pick out some side art i like. anyone have suggestions on side art?

I just did mine, had them on my previous one and had to get them again. Tilt Graphics but you’ll need to contact them as they are not on the website.

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#952 1 year ago

Those are on the website, they are just listed under "Hulk" instead of "Avengers". They are the same ones I linked in the previous message. Great looking blades!

1 week later
#953 1 year ago
Quoted from Jediturtle:

I really like the Hulk design from Tilt Graphics. I actually have them on my Blue and they still look great. I would imagine they look fantastic on a Hulk.
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/hulk-gameblades
I have some pics here in this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/all-hulk-get-is-tilt-avengers-club/page/19#post-5987923

Of course in the last 12 days when you posted this I saw them by clicking on this article but now today when i go to buy them the link is broken...

1 week later
#954 1 year ago

Hey guys having an issue with my Hulk motor. It was working fine now it’s spinning on the shaft at the motor when bridge goes down the motor continues as it’s not in correct position underneath. When in test mode should the motor reverse to go back to down switch.

First pix down switch next in test it goes to up switch ok then third pix it continues in same direction and bridge is down but can’t hit switch to disengage motor. Any ideas guys. I’ve had a few of these and never had it happen before. If someone can look at theirs and tell me what the motor does. Cheers Scott.

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1 month later
#955 1 year ago

anyone know where I can find a 520-6780-01 loki lock opto board? or some documentation on it? two of the three optos are not working (not a wiring issue) and I don't know if maybe it's the opto-couplers on the bottom of the board or the reflective opto sensors themselves... but there doesn't seem to be ANY documentation on this thing in either the PRO or LE manual

#956 1 year ago

Got my problem sorted finally. Dust or dirty contact in the relay that tells motor to reverse. Hulk bridge working as it should now.
Oh and I got finished with the rest of the mods. Big thanks again to
Robert HOOKED for his awesome mods. Tesseract is just the bomb compared to the original, plus those bumper caps.
Doug DugFreez for great speakerlightkits and acrylics as usual.
Mellissa and Co CoinTaker for making me another ripper Hulk topper.
Chris @rockcustom for his amazing undercab lighting kit.
Mike mikeincali for his custom shooter rods I’ve been buying for years now. Great guy.
beatmaster for the light up shooter housing. Love these!

Thanks to all the mod makers for allowing us to pimp our machines as much or as little as we like!!

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3 months later
#957 9 months ago

Lighted pinball flippers for Avengers installed, there is a blue set or green set available also. https://www.ArcadeMade.com

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4 weeks later
#958 8 months ago

I have a question for you all with bright tesseract cubes, my machine (LE) has what appears as a double encased LED (2 protruding out of the reflector) and only one lights up. It doesn't appear to be replaceable, what are you all using for this LED?
Okay 2 questions, the slingshots have green LED's that go out during gameplay and the solenoids appear to turn off also when the green LED's are off, is that a normal part of the operation? I haven't been able to find much on the rules, I guess it would be helpful if I added that I just bought this game, so far it is really cool.
Thanks,

#959 8 months ago
Quoted from mainthing:

I have a question for you all with bright tesseract cubes, my machine (LE) has what appears as a double encased LED (2 protruding out of the reflector) and only one lights up. It doesn't appear to be replaceable, what are you all using for this LED?
Okay 2 questions, the slingshots have green LED's that go out during gameplay and the solenoids appear to turn off also when the green LED's are off, is that a normal part of the operation? I haven't been able to find much on the rules, I guess it would be helpful if I added that I just bought this game, so far it is really cool.
Thanks,

Welcome to the club, it’s a great game IMO. Haven’t played in a while, focusing on a new pin so I don’t remember the solenoids turning off. The green leds if I remember will go off until you get to hulk mode. I have an upgraded clear tesseract cube so not show which lights you mean…can you post a picture?

Try this link on Pinside, great reading and will get you up to speed on the game:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/avengers-le-complete-rules

#960 8 months ago

Hi Usafstars, thanks for the reply. Yes it's a great game, my kids and I really like this one. I have attached and image of the Tesseract spot light, I have looked it over and really think it's hard wired, I will check below the playfield next. I'm not 100% sure the slingshots turn off, but it appears that way, there is a lot going on in this game and I will get it figured out. Thanks for the reference link, I will study that also.
Thanks!

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#961 8 months ago
Quoted from mainthing:

Hi Usafstars, thanks for the reply. Yes it's a great game, my kids and I really like this one. I have attached and image of the Tesseract spot light, I have looked it over and really think it's hard wired, I will check below the playfield next. I'm not 100% sure the slingshots turn off, but it appears that way, there is a lot going on in this game and I will get it figured out. Thanks for the reference link, I will study that also.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Thanks for the picture. From what I can tell is yours has been modified. In my pictures you'll what mine looks like (LE #003). If you have the manual you should be able to find the original parts to convert it back to the original socket.

For the slings. I'll be that your leaf switches are out of adjustment like mine were when I received it. The farther apart they are the more force the ball needs to engage them for the slingshot to fire ( I like them close so they fire easier). I've got a handy tool for such adjustments, if you don't the best way I've found is to pull each one out from under the playfield and make the adjustments with long needle nose pliers till you get them the way you want.

Link to the manual: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Avengers-LE-Manual-compressed.pdf

Look at page "P22" which is pg.58 in the PDF. There you'll find the parts to make the original LED socket for that light.

Hope this helps,
Cheers.

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#962 8 months ago

You are correct on all issues, slingshots way out of adjustment, parts on the way for the Tesseract light, but your cube is incredible, can you share where you got it? Thanks again for all your help on this machine, we are really enjoying it more every day.

#963 8 months ago
Quoted from mainthing:

You are correct on all issues, slingshots way out of adjustment, parts on the way for the Tesseract light, but your cube is incredible, can you share where you got it? Thanks again for all your help on this machine, we are really enjoying it more every day.

Glad you are enjoying it. The cube can be found here:

https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p61/Avengers-Tesseract-Cube-Version-2-Pinball-Mod.html

1 month later
#964 7 months ago

Hi guys, I have an issue I was hoping to get some help with. I have a game with a fried coil. Is this an acceptable replacement for the hill arm coil? Apparently the original is no longer produced. I have a machine that had this coil installed and was burned on the negative and I’m wondering if this coil is correct for this application ( this is the coil currently on the machine: 090-5032-ND). Thanks for the help! The original per the manual is: 500-7051-04.

#965 7 months ago
Quoted from Alaskanzen:

Hi guys, I have an issue I was hoping to get some help with. I have a game with a fried coil. Is this an acceptable replacement for the hill arm coil? Apparently the original is no longer produced. I have a machine that had this coil installed and was burned on the negative and I’m wondering if this coil is correct for this application ( this is the coil currently on the machine: 090-5032-ND). Thanks for the help! The original per the manual is: 500-7051-04.

If 090-5032-ND is printed on the stock coil, that’s the perfect replacement. The part number in the manual is the coil and a connector which I doubt anyone would stock. If you can solder, you can just transfer the connector and wiring from the old coil to the new.

If it was locked on, you will probably have to replace the drive transistor and associated diode on the driver board or the new coil will just lock on and burn up too.

#966 7 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If 090-5032-ND is printed on the stock coil, that’s the perfect replacement. The part number in the manual is the coil and a connector which I doubt anyone would stock. If you can solder, you can just transfer the connector and wiring from the old coil to the new.
If it was locked on, you will probably have to replace the drive transistor and associated diode on the driver board or the new coil will just lock on and burn up too.

Beautiful thanks. I’m not sure this was the stock coil, I suspect the operator who owned it replaced this coil with the stock coil when it burnt or needed to be replaced. I was trying to figure out if this was a correct replacement for the original coil/wire combo. No clue if it was locked on but we shall find out. Good heads up though on the drive transistor and thanks appreciate the help!

4 weeks later
#967 6 months ago

Fellow avengers!
I have an intermittent issue coming and going on my Avengers pro, wanted to ask if someone has had similar experience and, hopefully, a solution.

I am experiencing ghost switch hits on the drop targets (think its the U, not 100 % sure if it is also for others). This causes the ball to autoplunge when in the shooter lane, and also award "free" hulk target hits making multiball easier to reach. But the shooter lane trigger is the critical.

I have banged / shaken the pf but it does not seem to trigger it by itself. Any ideas? Could a repinning be necessary?
It is opto swiches on the drop target board, so no switches to adjust in itself.

1 month later
#968 4 months ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I have a question about the black widow and collecting the extra ball,can you collect it from the ramp,I hit the ramp and it is not diverted into the hole and at time when hulk is lit the ramp would divert also

I can't figure out how to get it to trigger an extra ball. Some games it pops up, others never. What should I be aiming for to get it to trigger?

1 week later
#969 4 months ago
Quoted from Tonythetiger014:

I can't figure out how to get it to trigger an extra ball. Some games it pops up, others never. What should I be aiming for to get it to trigger?

There are several triggers for extra ball. i know one is score. I would suggest going through the setting and seeing what you have set to trigger extra ball. I think a couple of settings can be turned off or can award a free game instead of extra ball etc. Mine is at my in-laws right now otherwise i would check.

3 months later
#970 16 days ago

Here's my attempt at fixing the annoying Hulk stuck balls at the large switch plate and under his arm pits. This was my buddies game and this one would also constantly get balls stuck after the left orbit to upper right drop area from slow balls on the switch.

I got with M&M Creations for 3 MRS Switches. These are the magnet switches with no moving parts that can replace standard switches. 2 switches for Hulk and 1 for the upper right switch. I cut the original switch IDC connector also, I cut them off the switches and soldered them to the new MRS switches. Everything is easily put back to factory if someone wants to down the road.

For the Hulk I removed the the Orginal switch plate and bracket. I cut 2 pieces of 1/8 inch Polycarbonate plastic. I order that from Amazon, a 12x12 piece was $8 bucks. I cut one longer than the playfield cutout for the bottom and added 2 additional holes to playfield for support on both sides and used 2 of the Orginal holes on the bottom side. The magnet bracket protrudes into the cut out are just a bit on the left side when looking from the bottom which is fine because I needed to get the wires out from that side also for the new switches I also wanted to add a Comet 3 Led strip to add additional light from the bottom. So the bottom plate has a bit of an opening when I added it to the bottom. I cut another piece of plastic the same size as the playfield opening then use a single standard plastic stand off and cut it down to about .5 of an inch then sanded them down till the top prices sat flush with the playfield I got to about .44 of an inch. I used some #8 flat head Phillips screws and used a counter sink bit to get them flush into the top plastic piece. I added the 2 switches under the top piece and the led strip to the bottom piece when I put it together. There is a little metal piece on the MRS switch that is the trigger point, I had them both pointing to the left but after testing it I flipped the left one so both those metal tabs where closer to the center to register Hulk hits. Last thing I added one of the original switch flat decals over the new setup, I gut the top left and right corners off as they had the rivit holes cut out so I just cut those corners off to make it even and applied it over the new switch and magnet core.

After the new switches were installed the next issue with this Hulk was the balls would also jam under each of his arm pits. I did raise his arms as much as possible with the adjustment bracket on the back of the Hulk mech but still having issues. I removed his arms added 3x #6 washers to push them out a little bit from the body to each arm, I also replaced the one on the outside as it was thicker to again a little tread back. Not totally ideal for the look but No more stuck balls there either.

Last thing for this one was when you shoot the left orbit to upper right drop to right lane. After the orbit the ball hits a piece of plastic then has to drop an inch or so where there is a switch it needs to pass through before continuing on to the right lane but after the ball hits the plastic most of the momentum is lost and the now slow moving balls would constantly get stuck on the switch bracket also. I removed that switch bracket and installed a MRS switch under the plastic also. That right plastic has to be one of the longest playfield plastics also that's also turned into a ramp with the clear guides on the sides.

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#971 15 days ago

Mine is still working great with the tourney button mod
Ball gets stuck just lift hulk arms up anytime

#972 13 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Here's my attempt at fixing the annoying Hulk stuck balls at the large switch plate and under his arm pits. This was my buddies game and this one would also constantly get balls stuck after the left orbit to upper right drop area from slow balls on the switch.
I got with M&M Creations for 3 MRS Switches. These are the magnet switches with no moving parts that can replace standard switches. 2 switches for Hulk and 1 for the upper right switch. I cut the original switch IDC connector also, I cut them off the switches and soldered them to the new MRS switches. Everything is easily put back to factory if someone wants to down the road.
For the Hulk I removed the the Orginal switch plate and bracket. I cut 2 pieces of 1/8 inch Polycarbonate plastic. I order that from Amazon, a 12x12 piece was $8 bucks. I cut one longer than the playfield cutout for the bottom and added 2 additional holes to playfield for support on both sides and used 2 of the Orginal holes on the bottom side. The magnet bracket protrudes into the cut out are just a bit on the left side when looking from the bottom which is fine because I needed to get the wires out from that side also for the new switches I also wanted to add a Comet 3 Led strip to add additional light from the bottom. So the bottom plate has a bit of an opening when I added it to the bottom. I cut another piece of plastic the same size as the playfield opening then use a single standard plastic stand off and cut it down to about .5 of an inch then sanded them down till the top prices sat flush with the playfield I got to about .44 of an inch. I used some #8 flat head Phillips screws and used a counter sink bit to get them flush into the top plastic piece. I added the 2 switches under the top piece and the led strip to the bottom piece when I put it together. There is a little metal piece on the MRS switch that is the trigger point, I had them both pointing to the left but after testing it I flipped the left one so both those metal tabs where closer to the center to register Hulk hits. Last thing I added one of the original switch flat decals over the new setup, I gut the top left and right corners off as they had the rivit holes cut out so I just cut those corners off to make it even and applied it over the new switch and magnet core.
After the new switches were installed the next issue with this Hulk was the balls would also jam under each of his arm pits. I did raise his arms as much as possible with the adjustment bracket on the back of the Hulk mech but still having issues. I removed his arms added 3x #6 washers to push them out a little bit from the body to each arm, I also replaced the one on the outside as it was thicker to again a little tread back. Not totally ideal for the look but No more stuck balls there either.
Last thing for this one was when you shoot the left orbit to upper right drop to right lane. After the orbit the ball hits a piece of plastic then has to drop an inch or so where there is a switch it needs to pass through before continuing on to the right lane but after the ball hits the plastic most of the momentum is lost and the now slow moving balls would constantly get stuck on the switch bracket also. I removed that switch bracket and installed a MRS switch under the plastic also. That right plastic has to be one of the longest playfield plastics also that's also turned into a ramp with the clear guides on the sides.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I've had an MRS laying around to try this exact mod but haven't gotten around to it. Do you think you really need 2 under there?

With the extra width of the arms, does he hit the metal ball guides and plastics on each side of his area when he rages? Mine does with the stock width.

#973 12 days ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I've had an MRS laying around to try this exact mod but haven't gotten around to it. Do you think you really need 2 under there?
With the extra width of the arms, does he hit the metal ball guides and plastics on each side of his area when he rages? Mine does with the stock width.

If you center the MRS silver tab right in the middle I'm sure it will be fine.

This one didn't have any issues. First I picked up the arms as much as it would go with the adjustment on Hulks back. then I added the washers and it was Not hitting anything and no more stuck balls in his arm pits.

#974 12 days ago
Quoted from rollinover:

Mine is still working great with the tourney button mod
Ball gets stuck just lift hulk arms up anytime

I saw that mod when I was doing some research on other fixes. I have never seen that tournament button installed and since this game could make its way to a Public Arcade I didn't think anyone would even know that was installed.

It's working flawlessly now at least in those areas, game still has some other rough shots to make but it's a fun game.

#975 11 days ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

I saw that mod when I was doing some research on other fixes. I have never seen that tournament button installed and since this game could make its way to a Public Arcade I didn't think anyone would even know that was installed.
It's working flawlessly now at least in those areas, game still has some other rough shots to make but it's a fun game.

I saw one person on here change the graphics from tournament start etc to HULK
That will get someone to push it

Plus it’s fun to raise his arms and bash at any time lol

#976 9 days ago

I just listed an Avengers Shooter Rod and Shooter Plate - Complete Assembly. Easy install. $100 obo + shipping if anyone is interested

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/150570

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