Me three.

The Hulk art is too over-the-top and in-your-face for me.

However, after owning the (blue) game for a while, I did come to learn that the game itself is really The Hulk show more than anything else (which I grew to accept and then embrace).

I miss it. It was a sad "goodbye."

Thanks,
Jason

I own both the blue and the green and believe Hulk to be one of the nicest looking games I own. It’s right up there with Magneto.

The blue is very nice as well, but not quite as striking in my opinion.

Great that we all like something different. Keeps it interesting.
I also prefer Magneto but most seem to gravitate to Wolverine.

They did look great together.

B710A204-F3D4-4AB3-96FB-53D0456C1C81 (resized).jpeg

C4CC31C4-17E8-4545-8DAB-0290140A156A (resized).jpeg

Magneto +1

Here’s my Hulk next to my Magneto....

AEB7BC0A-B9F5-46F3-B91A-FDB0C5785ACE (resized).jpeg

Can anyone confirm who the artist was for the avengers pin pro le models?

Hulk and Magneto are two of the best looking games Stern has ever made.

Pretty positive Kevin o Connor did the art
As he did for xmen

Love his work

So just had an absolute ripper of a game. GC score and first time played battle for earth.
Quick question. I noticed the graphics in Battle for Earth were black and white. Do I need to update ColourDMD or is this as far as they got coding. I heard years ago when people got there it was blank and that was before the last code update from Stern. Such a great game. 50 minutes and 5 extra balls.

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Battle for Earth never coded for color dmd as far as I know. Just sold my game and got there myself (not as great of a score though!) and black and white was it.

anybody know where i can buy loki "lock" post?

Has anyone fixed the hulk stuck ball arms?
I know there are threads on it but I’m still contemplating how to fix this issue

A previous owner of my game wired the tournament button to bump Hulk's arms. It works perfect. There's a post on here somewhere that explains how to install. May take some effort but completely eliminates any aggravation from stuck balls. There are some other threads on modifying his arms so they are higher but if I recall it requires more work than the tournament button fix.

I used a silicone pad as described in this post , but without removing the Hulk arms or body (it's not necessary).

A bigger problem on my game was the Hulk plate switch being too close. This switch was almost always closed (observed in switch test mode), so the Hulk arms weren't moving anywhere near as much as they're supposed to. I put a thin plastic shim under the mounting plate for this switch and it works much better now.

I remember reading about it and the schematic
I'm probably going to go that route

When hooking up the hulk button mod
The wire on the button with the 620 ohm resistor is the one that runs to the driver board in the head?

And then the other wire hooks up to the shaker connector unused?

Where can I source the proper connector?

Yes, that's where the wire goes. This post has a clear description/pictures: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-tweaks-have-you-done-to-hulk-le?tu=crank

Not sure about sourcing the connector, but pinballlife, Marco or someplace like Digiikey all carry standard molex connectors.

Thanks I’m looking at the pictures from that thread and it’s hard to tell but where is the wire going from the center metal lead of the button to the connector near the shaker? And if so which did it get soldered to in there the red or white lead? Assuming red? Or ??
Thanks don’t want to mess it up

Also ... so nothing is actually soldered to the hulk coil just the driver board?

Also is a 620 ohm between the shaker lead recommended as well?

The intent is to send a 5V signal to trigger the coil transistor, so you want the red 5V lead. Triggering the transistor with low voltage will send high voltage to the Hulk coil. The resistor goes between the tournament button switch and transistor. If you look at the schematic linked in my prior post, the “mod” is only the small dashed line portion showing 5V running through a switch and resistor.

Awesome thanks so I should only be using one resistor near the button?

Thanks ordering it all to install gonna make the play a lot more consistent and add a whole new attract mode feature lol

Yes, one resistor.

Just to clarify, you want to get 5V from the auxiliary power connector that Stern supplies by the shaker motor. Not the shaker motor wiring itself. You can confirm the 5 volts with a meter between the connector pin and cabinet ground braid. Don’t send anything more than 5V to the transistor.

Right the aux cable yes
Thanks man!!

I did this and changed the enjoyment level on my game no end.

I achieved the same result by bending the coil stop down slightly. This puts his right fist up a bit clearing the ball at rest so no stuck balls. The only drawback with this "adjustment" is that he won't punch the ball anymore. I'm ok with that to have no stuck balls, but the punching would be pretty cool too.

Thanks for the input guys

I have thought about it for awhile and figure just easier to install the button
Plus I want that hulk punch action still

One of the drawback is educating each player about the button

I like it when hulk holds up the game... gives me a chance to take a gulp of my beverage!

Pin with you. No more numerous ball searches during play is way better. I still love this game and this being the second time around. Hulk SMASH

Lol
What gauge wire should I use for the mod and soldered up to the board ?

I did this write up a long time ago:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/avengers-black-widow-ramp-and-hulk-mods

I had the usual negative pinside comments. I hardly ever post anymore but if you want your Hulk to scream read my ideas. Your game will play the way it should have when it left the factory.

Just use a thinner gauge twisted wire that can be cleanly soldered to the board, 18-20. The amps are very low.

Very cool thanks for sharing

My fix was to undo Hulks right arm (as that is the one that always gets stuck) turn it 90 degrees and put it back in the raised position.

Update on this
On the pro model the driver board is different then on the premium

You have to take everything out and off to do it

Not worth it IMO and it didn’t really work that well. The mod to tournament button is pretty janky and you need a really really clean solder on the resistor

It worked a little but started giving me issues so I removed it entirely. Even lost all my high voltage??!! Removed it all and it’s fine even though it did activate and work in attract
That Q6! However only resets the bank on the pro.

Gonna leave the tourney button but man that is a mess to try on the pro model

On the le and premium it’s a much smaller board to deal with and easier to get to

Gonna try the silicone pad route next

Another update on this

I took a little Furniture sliding pad that has a really sticky side on it and thick, cut it to fit that the bottom black stop and stuck it behind hulk where the spring is.

You don’t need to remove hulk or any plastics.

The only thing I did was remove the arms and place it back there.

Noticed a serious improvement on the right arm of hulk, not one stuck ball at all and on the left I did have one where he moved his arms up and pinned it on the forearm.

Next will be hooked on pinball tesseract and pop bumper caps.

All hulk gets is angry working on hulk lol

I did end up installing the button mod for hulks arms
It uses spot q17 on the pro to lift them up and down to release the ball

Also ordered hooked pinball tesseract mod works great was hard to install on pro as it seemed to tall on mine, hooked was nice enough to send me a shorty post mod and it works and looks amazing now.

After all the little mods it is quite a super game

I read something many pages earlier in this topic about a player adjustable divertor. Does anyone have info on this? Thanks

Where did you buy the button mod?

I bought the actual button, which is a stern tournament button from marcos which was like 18 bucks
Then a pack of 620 ohm resistors like 10 cents

You need small gauge wire think I used 18 gauge and ran it to the spare red wire of the extra connector that’s loose in the side of the cabinet. It has a purple and red wire, use the red one. The other wire from the button goes up to the head on the Q17 top solder spot on the back of the main board, the whole job is a diy mod.

It’s a pain to do but pretty rewarding to have It done. with the little tweaks stuck balls are not really a problem any longer. And as others said it is kinda funny to walk by and hit the button to have hulk get angry and bash his arms.

That tesseract mod from Robert is awesome rollinover As are all his mods. I ended up getting pretty much everything. Great additions to the game. Loki with lit staff is a really cool one too. Glad to see people still loving Hulk.

Yes hooked on pinball are pretty amazing
They are worth the money and I for one have gotten excellent customer service by them.
He made me a custom post for mine

What is this Loki staff? Mod ?? I must install more

Hulk love mods

It is an option in the settings.

What exactly does it divert? And where

From memory, in the LE/Premium you can divert a left orbit shot to either go to the left flipper via the black widow ramp or to the right flipper (if you do not tell it to divert). There is a diverter in the back right and you have to signal it to divert before the ball gets to the diverter by pressing both flipper buttons (I think). This will only work if the selection in the settings to allow diverting is on.

The right ramp diverter setting is found in Feature Adjustment #5. Possible values are Weighted (Factory), Weighted + Override, and Competition. I played a few games with the optional values but could not tell what was different. Tried a few shots with both flipper buttons pressed hoping to activate "Override" but was not successful.

Reading back to when I owned the game, I believe the override is done by pressing the left flipper button before the ball gets to the diverter to get the ball to go to the left flipper and right button to go to the right flipper.

Hm I think you might be right! Just played again with the "Override" setting and it seems to work. However there are times when override is ignored, for example if Loki lock is flashing.

Hi. I'm getting my Avengers Pro on Tuesday. Does anyone have the music modded code that Spider did?

I've checked the old thread and the link is dead and he's not responding to my PM

I have Cleland's version for the Pro, but since it is 32mb, I'm not sure how I can send it to you.

Anyone installed pinball side mirrors in a Pro? I came across a set, but www.pinballsidemirrors.com link in the instruction card that came with it is dead and a search on YouTube and Google didn't turn up anything.

I have them on LE but same as pro when it comes to mirrors. Installation is also the same for all mirrors regardless of manufacturer so just do a general search. Not much to it. I prefer to use double sided tape along the top (don’t use anything too aggressive if you ever want to remove) and screws on the bottom. Screws on top can get in the way if playfield is tight. And buy protectors from pinball life for any time you need to lift playfield.