Ok thx
I bought a Supersonic with this same problem. Turned out to be one of the main control lamp power wires that come down from the backbox had become unsoldered at the first light they connected to. This cut power to all the controlled lights on the playfield. I believe the wires are dark blue.
Okay. Thx for these additional hints.
I am connecting the board to the wiring loom and I have noticed some other differences to the original: There are double terminals on the board at some places where the original only has one. The wiring loom also has additional cables to match them.
See , for example, E10.
Is there a reason for this?
Shall I connect them, too?
5BC18435-254C-4D75-9DD3-CF5E42A7B5E1 (resized).jpegQuoted from Pinslot:There are double terminals on the board at some places where the original only has one.
On some games (Kiss for example), Bally increased the number of supported feature controlled lamps which resulted in larger bridge rectification being required and they also ran double wires to carry extra current capacity from the transformer to E9 and E10 points of the rectifier board.
Your new rectifier board supports these games with extra controlled feature lamps (Kiss, Future Spa and Space Invaders)
Before you solder the wires to the board it is good practice to always "pre-tin" solder the stripped bare wire first.
Just ruminating on this. So, for Star Trek I don’t need the double wire solution from E9 and E10.
Would it make the current more stable to run two wires from those terminals OR would you advise against it?
Quoted from Pinslot:The wiring loom also has additional cables to match them.
If your aftermarket wiring loom includes the double wires then it doesn't hurt to connect them.
But if your loom doesn't have them then I would not specifically go to the trouble of adding double wires for this game.
Your attention would be better spent on making sure the J1 playfield connector to the rectifier board is using trifurcon crimps.
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