You sure they are working? The ww I had just had all flashers burned out. But you should check the fuse as well.

The back box has a few big bulbs that could be the same size, see if those light up. Or take a multimeter to the fuse or bulb power/ground and see if there is power

I'm having the same problem with Freddy, another System 3 Gottlieb. All of the flashers are dead, but because I just bought it, they may be burned out. No manual! Waiting on 67 lamps to troubleshoot...

I just recently had the same problem, luckily when I changed out the bulbs turned out every single one of them was out. I just got the manual so if you would like me to look anything up, lemme know.

Thank you. Hopefully it's just the bulbs, but when I did the systems test it said Solenoids 16-22 with (part) 67 and nothing flashed. This is my first rodeo with potentially replacing fuses or Solenoids, so I'm hopeful it's the flashers. Do these have a shorter life than other lamps?

Gert a box of spare bulbs for all the different bulbs in your pin. Then just replace the unlit bulb with a new one. Simple enough and you won't be wondering if all your bulbs are bad.

Some of the system 3 games use the flashers extensively in ATTRACT mode. Because of this they are often all burnt out. Sometimes the associated transistors are cooked also. But usually they are just burnt out. It is relatively common for them ALL to be burnt out.

PS - Definitely use the 67s because 89s will not last very long.

Parker

There is a resistor on the bottom of the playfield all the way in the back that controls the flash lamp power. I cannot remember the value of the resistor but it is >=5watts. Test the resistor and make sure the power is getting to it.

--Scott

I'm a firm believer in having the service manual for every pin I own. It just makes troubleshooting and repair so much easier. For most pins you can download decent copies from IPDB. For Gottliebs, Pinball Resource. Ebay can also be a source.

I also have been fortunate that most of my pins have come with manuals. Early System1's usually have the manual with the game wiring and info but no PCB schematics.

Do yourself a favor and get the Manual. Another benefit is that some manuals contain "Theory of Operation" and this can be a big help in learning how to troubleshoot and repair your Pin.

Completely agree.

The 67s came in today and I replaced 8 total. All of the old 67s were blown, but the new flashers still do not work. Any idea which fuse may be the culprit?

I don't have the manual or the multimeter, so help would be appreciated. I may have to bite the bullet and purchase both.

Not sure what you are saying.
Put new 67s and they still don't work?
All the old 67s were blown.. how do you know that?

You need to get a DMM(meter) and then you can measure the fuse for continuity.(~ 0 ohms)
You don't need anything fancy. Harbor Freight has them for ~ $5. Sears has them on sale for ~ 10 to 15 at times. Home depot, lowes, radio shack. Get a meter.

Or you could make a continuity tester using batteries and an led or buzzer, sonalert, etc.

Mudflaps said:
The 67s came in today and I replaced 8 total. All of the old 67s were blown, but the new flashers still do not work

Not sure what you are saying.
Put new 67s and they still don't work?
All the old 67s were blown.. how do you know that?

The #67 lamps on the playfield (8 total) were burned out - I could tell because the filament was broken. I replaced all of the playfield #67 lamps but still no luck.

I've been talking with cicerone [GREAT help!!! ] and have pinpointed the problem, but no solution yet...

Solenoids 16-22 are not working... these provide power to the flashers and back box 904s (also out). The A3 driver board looks okay, but the transistors are a bit rusty. I ordered a DMM which will be here on Saturday.

Could be one of two things: the driver board is providing power but I have a problem somewhere else, or the driver board will need to be replaced by a rottendog.

Everything else works very well.

photo_copy_5.JPG

So in Diagnostic mode you could get the 67s to work and flash but in game mode they do not work?
Do you have clay's guide for System 3?

If none of the flashers are working in either test or game, first thing to check is the .33 ohm 5w resistor on the bottom of the playboard - it is usually screwed in on both sides and has many wires going to it. Sometimes it gets ripped out when pulling the playfield from the game.

If your controlled lamps are working (44/47s) but not the big flashers (67s) then it may be one or more of the 12N10Ls on the driver board.

One other thing you can try is reseating the 20 pin ribbon cable that goes from the CPU to the driver board. I've had this go bad on me before making A3 look bad. Good luck!

viperrwk

Thanks. Will try all three tonight. 44s all work, no flashers in test or play.

Once again, major thanks to cicerone for lots of personal e-mails and pm's.

After finally purchasing a DMM, it turns out F6 was blown. The only 10 amp/32 volt at Radio Shack was a fast blow (original was a slow blow), but I thought 'what the hell' and tried it. No luck. I ordered the slow blow through marcospecialties so once again it will be a few more days.

Hopefully it's the fuse and not the driver board. God bless Freddy.

Technical help needed on Freddy (Gottlieb System 3)...

Problem: all solenoid controlled backbox and playfield flashers do not work

Troubleshooting: I replaced the F6 fuse (10 amp, 32V slow blow), replaced all of the lamps, checked all of the connectors, and ordered a new rottendog A3 driver board... still no flashers

Can you tell me specifically where this is located? I tried to find the resistor, but as a noob, the entire lower playfield is a maze of screws and wires.

Any other ideas? Thanks for the help.

Usually towards the back of the playfield on the left side. Gottlieb usually ran all the 67 flasher bulbs through this resistor and if everything else in the game works, no fuses are blown, and all the bulbs are known good, then it's a high probability this resistor is suspect.

Also, all the parts on the bottom of the playfield are usually identified on the board. Here's the best photo I have of what it looks like (from a SFII.) It's in the upper part of the photo to the right of center and you can see it says "R1" on the playfield. street_fighter_103.JPG

Good luck!

viperrwk

Thanks viperrwk. I'll give it a go!

I think i have the exact same problem. Did you ever got to fix it ?

Unfortunately, no. I fiddled with the resistor but I never replaced it. Still bothers me to this day, but hopefully others will have more luck.

I fixed the playfield Flashers at last.

It was the R1 resistor.